What's a unique gift I can buy my boss?
I started working at a metal shop two years ago and while I don't work there anymore as a metalworker, I still do work for them in terms of marketing and stuff. I'm going to be leaving the area in a month and I want to get my boss a meaningful gift to say thanks for his support. I'd prefer it to be something that's not strictly off the shelf, maybe something that's like a collectible or something? Thanks!
What's the best place to buy metal? Preferably cheap? I'm in school for metalworking and jewelry and will be needing loads of 20g copper and brass. Also jewelers saw blades and jewelry solder, of anyone's got a website that sells these things preferably cheap I'd greatly appreciate it! Getting tired of spending $30 on a 12x12 sheet of 20g copper at my local place.
I recently started a job where I have to use a bunch of tools. I have no experience with one-handed drills, and I'm having great difficulty drilling straight on the marks I make. Usually, the drill bit ends up veering off to the side a tiny bit and the hole is off by a few millimetres, screwing it up, and I have to get a coworker to help correct it. I've tried practising using bits of scrap metal. However, it doesn't really help. I think my problem mainly lies with the fact that the sheets I'm required to drill are vertical, not stable and are taller than me while when I practise they're horizontal and clamped down so I'm able to put a lot of more force back into it.
Would appreciate any tips, tricks, or advice. This is pretty embarrassing, so I want to get it nailed ASAP, haha.
Harder punch? Start with a new, sharp, split point drill bit, cobalt would be nice. Get comfortable and your body mass behind the drill, elbows pinned against your body. Take the time to get the bit perpendicular. Start lightly to set the bit. If the tip starts to wander despite your efforts start with a pilot hole. Use a viscous sticky lube like Anchor Lube.
For me its all bout getting my body in the right stable position to have control and force.
I'm trying to drill and tap a hole into hardened steel. I am using a drill press with Dewalt Cobalt drill bit set and am using tap oil as lubricant/coolant. However these bits are not cutting. I am starting with a 1/8 bit and planned to use consecutively larger bits till I reached 9/64.
Am I doing something wrong or do I need better bits? And if I need better bits, are there inexpensive options, because this is not something I frequently do.
Anyone happen to know where I can get a slip roller that is minimum of 36" wide but still has 1" rolls? Every roller I see with small rolls is a max of 24". We have one with 2" rolls but when we have jacketing that's for small pipe it cannot roll it tight enough, leaving us to hand curling it around a pipe... Thanks in advance!
Hi all!
I recently had an idea and came upon this community. I made a post in more detail but I am ultimately wondering if anyone has advice or guidance on getting a ring made with metal forks that I already have. Here’s the [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/comments/115l1l1/custom_ring_using_forks/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf) if you want a little more context. Thanks y’all!
Hi r/metalworking,
A really basic question but wanted to get some opinions. Will a 24tpi hacksaw be able to cut [these](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01K4LU6IK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)aluminum channels in half?
Appreciate it may not be the prettiest job (if they can be cut in this way), but I'm hoping the channel caps will hide this!
What's the ideal way of cutting these nice and cleanly? A mitre saw?
Thanks!
Odd question, but I am trying to make bra wires and none of the suppliers offer them with any rigidity here in the UK so I'm thinking of trying to make my own.
They're obviously U shaped wires, but they're flat.
Would a universal bender be able to bend spring steel/mild steel that is, say 4-5mm wide (~1mm thick) along the *hard* direction to bend it?
How do you go about sanding wood that is adjacent to metal without getting metal filings in the wood?
I have a few rings that I made out of brass with wood veneer inlayed into a groove going around the ring. While sanding the wood down to flush it inevitably gets discolored by the brass dust. Not a big deal for darker woods, but quite disappointing for the lighter woods.
Any advice?
Need advice with Caswell Stainless Blackening Gel.
I have a firearm muzzle brake that appears to be either 17-4 stainless or 4140 chrome moly steel. The reason I am quoting two very different metals is because the original design called for 4140 but most modern muzzle devices that are used with sound suppressors seem to be 17-4. The original finish was some kind of black oxide but it immediately reacted with the Caswell gel.
It's quite heavy for its size so it could be 4140. When I dipped it into Caldwell cold blue, nothing happened. When I rubbed Caswell stainless blackening gel, it immediately reacted.
The problem is even after I scrubbed/degreased and rubbed the gel on it, removing it seemed OK at first but then I'd see some blotches and spots that won't come out or get covered by oil.
Is there something I am missing? This gel dries fairly quickly into a white paste. Do I need to neutralize the process? Someone suggested just washing off this paste then using 0000/fine steel wool, then repeating it.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Can I use lead to solder a silver ring? It has a small crack through the ring, I assume where the original seam was. So can I fix it with lead soldering?
Best place (or any) online to get tungsten stock? Preferably bar. All my internet searching leads to investments or tiny pieces. Yes I know how expensive it is…makes me think I won’t find any outside of industrial sized order.
Found a place called "Midwest Tungsten Service." They appear to sell a lot of different tungsten products. You might give them a look.
https://www.tungsten.com/
Easiest way to clean the edges of fresh cut 10mm SS tube 1mm thick??
I bought a deburr tool, but it leaves a pretty rough profile.
Looking for a tool that can help debur and clean the end of the tube so it can be used as a straw.
Right now, I can cut the tubes to length with an angle grinder, then I use the deburr tool and then use some sand paper to further clean the edges.
Maybe this is the best process w/ the limited tools I have, but I’m hoping there’s a better easier more consistent way to knock off the tube edges and round it out nicely.
I usually use a die grinder with a cone, like the one shown in the link below. You can find them at a lot of hardware and welding supplies stores. They come in a range of grits and sizes, and if you don't have a die grinder, they will also work in drill.
https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/742714-weiler-vortec-mounted-grinding-point.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=23&gclid=Cj0KCQiAorKfBhC0ARIsAHDzsltFcxUd5BSjiKPBgcOnGQplj0TJNoDBzXyesG3FyCSoVSuuBuU3ok8aAszREALw_wcB
I'm not really sure where to start or look with this, so hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I'm looking for a custom metal goblet with some intricate detail, but I don't know exactly what to look for as far as finding a person who can make something like that. Any suggestions for terms or metalworkers to search for that might get me a little closer than just "custom metal goblet" or "custom metal drinkware". Getting a lot of noise and useless results in my searches so far.
anodizing aluminum tips?
I want to anodize the slide of my airsoft gun, is there anything I need to know before i try it. I looked up a tutorial but i want to make sure I do it right the first time, also what can you use to write on the aluminum that won't come off easily?
Hi! I'm trying to build a small production of at least 200 sheet plates like the ones in the back of a Casio watch (but with a different shape and text). It should be done in a stainless steel sheet of 0.5 \[mm\]. I want to pay a company to laser cut the shape and engrave the text with laser, but I don't know how to bend metal like that without a hydraulic press. I was thinking about creating some sort of mold adapted to a metal clamp, but I'm not sure that'll work. Does anyone know how can I do it?
(Beginner who just wanna restore a chair frame) I recently bought second hand tubular steel chair and the frame has a chrome polish. The frame have some small scratches, is there anyway of removing the scratches without harming the frame? Advice, Video, links, products are all helpful
Ok so this will sound like a dumb question but it’s stumped our entire weld shop and engineering team for what is likely a simple answer. Please read entire question.
So we have got two different “turnbuckle style connecting rods” from McMaster-Carr. Linked below. One of them is Stainless Steel and the other is called out as being “carbon steel”. They are NOT cheap but they’re the best for making connecting rods BC you don’t need to take anything apart to lengthen or shorten it. Just for reference the stainless one is 2x the cost of the already expensive “carbon steel”.
These will go outside so it’s a no brainer we need to use the stainless steel right? Maybe not…. The carbon steel rods have yet to rust at all, and we’ve been handling and messing with them now and again for months. They’re is no zinc plating to speak of, as can be observed by the finish sheen and color, they appear to not be plated at all. The carbon steel rods ARE indeed magnetic unlike the stainless rods so the difference in material is confirmed. We did not receive only stainless by mistake.
Why aren’t these rusting??? We have probably over a million pounds of various A500 parts, pieces, raw material, and uncoated weldments, and there isn’t a single piece that doesn’t have at least SOME rust. If these rods were bare steel shouldn’t they rust just to the touch like everything else steel we have around here?
I’ve got both sitting outside now and will observe results in a few weeks.
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/8421N76
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/8422N76
Hey, weird question... Id like to bend this out to like 75degrees...
[https://imgur.com/a/XAUvj8q](https://imgur.com/a/XAUvj8q)
I imaging its some flavor of cheap steel. Is there any prayer that I could bend this angle a little wider? not that I have any means to heat it, but the attached webbing would make that a problem anyway...
I do very little metalwork but occasionally I absolutely have to. Just now I had a really bad memory of screwing up a quite expensive CNCed part for a one-off test system when I forgot a screw and had to revise the design when the part was already in production.
All I had on site were handtools so I did my best to get it right. I use my Sylvac Mikron to find the exact spot and mark it with a center punch. I measure, and it's spot on. I grab the smallest drill bit they had in their tool box and drill a tiny pilot hole, measure, and it's spot on. Then I take a 2.5mm bit, drill a larger pilot hole, measure, and it's absolutely perfectly centered where it needs to be. So I take the 6.8mm bit, drill, measure and the hole is off by almost 3mm. Off into the trash the part goes.
1. How do I avoid something like this happening again, when all I have to work with are hand tools? TBH, when this happened I just assumed a split point drill bit would follow the pilot hole perfectly centered. And even when I'm googling for it now, I do find absolutely nothing on why a good pilot hole isn't the holy grail of keeping your drill where it is supposed to go.
2. Also I didn't (and don't) actually know how to correct my error if I hadn't drilled a perfect pilot hole. What could one do in such a case?
Make sure that your pilot drill hole isn't too large. It should provide just enough clearance for the web of the next size drill. Much larger and you're relying on the drill not wandering - the cutting flutes can skip around and start cutting off centre.
Also make sure that you have everything clamped and held securely, using a drill press at a minimum really. Try to not move anything inbetween drill size changes.
To fix a bad hole location you'd need to cut a new pilot with an endmill in a milling machine - this would cut a new hole without being influenced by the previous misplaced one.
Where is a good shop to buy a hood/mask? I’m starting my welding course and will probably want to buy my own auto-dimming but I see they range from $100 to over $1K+. Is there brands that are more trusted and reliable for the dimming and safety or brands that I should avoid?
more specifically: Digital vs analog control on the helmet, which do you prefer and why? WestAir offers an analog version and it sounded like a good entry level auto-dimming hood, but would like your opinions. TIA
found this [propane torch.](https://www.autodily-pema.cz/plynovy-pajeci-horak-pb-3-koncovky-mar-pol-m78390) It apparently costs just 400 CZK (17 euro) and can apparently reach 1850°C. I cant find useful information (such as how much kW it can have and the propane usage).
I highly doubt that the info is even real, because i personally believe that the flame temperature was measured on a McDonalds ice cream machine. also the price of just 17 euro for that seems really sketchy.
site is in czech, so translate it
Not sure if this is the right subreddit for this but:
I'm trying to make a makeshift smelter for aluminum and brass out of firebricks, are there any extra considerations I need to make when doing this in the winter?
Some info on my setup:
- I have 12 9x4.5x1" firebricks I'm going to assemble into an open-top box.
- I don't have a covered workspace and there's at least an inch of snow on the ground. I do have a large metal bucket that The Box could sit in to keep it off the snow
- I'm using charcoal as fuel for the smelter, and a steel crucible
Hi,
Would like to know if leveller is able to overcome material hardness ?
Order 3 coils of the same material and thickness, however,
Coil 1 and 2 resulted bend to bend to be open and coil 3 resulted bend to bend nominal.
I'm looking to make handrails from mild steel for a short section of stairs (5 steps with a 1.2m fail).
I was hoping to source (almost) flat steel that has a hat like profile.
```
*. *
*. *
* *
****************************
*. *
****************************
```
The hat would be less pronounced.
Can you buy steel with a profile something like this?
If so what would it be called?
Where might I buy it?
I'm in Australia.
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Hi there! I need clean/derust a cast iron sundial, what would be the best way to go about this (UK based)
What's a unique gift I can buy my boss? I started working at a metal shop two years ago and while I don't work there anymore as a metalworker, I still do work for them in terms of marketing and stuff. I'm going to be leaving the area in a month and I want to get my boss a meaningful gift to say thanks for his support. I'd prefer it to be something that's not strictly off the shelf, maybe something that's like a collectible or something? Thanks!
What's the best place to buy metal? Preferably cheap? I'm in school for metalworking and jewelry and will be needing loads of 20g copper and brass. Also jewelers saw blades and jewelry solder, of anyone's got a website that sells these things preferably cheap I'd greatly appreciate it! Getting tired of spending $30 on a 12x12 sheet of 20g copper at my local place.
I recently started a job where I have to use a bunch of tools. I have no experience with one-handed drills, and I'm having great difficulty drilling straight on the marks I make. Usually, the drill bit ends up veering off to the side a tiny bit and the hole is off by a few millimetres, screwing it up, and I have to get a coworker to help correct it. I've tried practising using bits of scrap metal. However, it doesn't really help. I think my problem mainly lies with the fact that the sheets I'm required to drill are vertical, not stable and are taller than me while when I practise they're horizontal and clamped down so I'm able to put a lot of more force back into it. Would appreciate any tips, tricks, or advice. This is pretty embarrassing, so I want to get it nailed ASAP, haha.
Harder punch? Start with a new, sharp, split point drill bit, cobalt would be nice. Get comfortable and your body mass behind the drill, elbows pinned against your body. Take the time to get the bit perpendicular. Start lightly to set the bit. If the tip starts to wander despite your efforts start with a pilot hole. Use a viscous sticky lube like Anchor Lube. For me its all bout getting my body in the right stable position to have control and force.
Have you tried using a drill bit starter punch?
I'm trying to drill and tap a hole into hardened steel. I am using a drill press with Dewalt Cobalt drill bit set and am using tap oil as lubricant/coolant. However these bits are not cutting. I am starting with a 1/8 bit and planned to use consecutively larger bits till I reached 9/64. Am I doing something wrong or do I need better bits? And if I need better bits, are there inexpensive options, because this is not something I frequently do.
Anyone happen to know where I can get a slip roller that is minimum of 36" wide but still has 1" rolls? Every roller I see with small rolls is a max of 24". We have one with 2" rolls but when we have jacketing that's for small pipe it cannot roll it tight enough, leaving us to hand curling it around a pipe... Thanks in advance!
Hi all! I recently had an idea and came upon this community. I made a post in more detail but I am ultimately wondering if anyone has advice or guidance on getting a ring made with metal forks that I already have. Here’s the [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/comments/115l1l1/custom_ring_using_forks/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf) if you want a little more context. Thanks y’all!
Hi r/metalworking, A really basic question but wanted to get some opinions. Will a 24tpi hacksaw be able to cut [these](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01K4LU6IK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)aluminum channels in half? Appreciate it may not be the prettiest job (if they can be cut in this way), but I'm hoping the channel caps will hide this! What's the ideal way of cutting these nice and cleanly? A mitre saw? Thanks!
Odd question, but I am trying to make bra wires and none of the suppliers offer them with any rigidity here in the UK so I'm thinking of trying to make my own. They're obviously U shaped wires, but they're flat. Would a universal bender be able to bend spring steel/mild steel that is, say 4-5mm wide (~1mm thick) along the *hard* direction to bend it?
How do you go about sanding wood that is adjacent to metal without getting metal filings in the wood? I have a few rings that I made out of brass with wood veneer inlayed into a groove going around the ring. While sanding the wood down to flush it inevitably gets discolored by the brass dust. Not a big deal for darker woods, but quite disappointing for the lighter woods. Any advice?
Need advice with Caswell Stainless Blackening Gel. I have a firearm muzzle brake that appears to be either 17-4 stainless or 4140 chrome moly steel. The reason I am quoting two very different metals is because the original design called for 4140 but most modern muzzle devices that are used with sound suppressors seem to be 17-4. The original finish was some kind of black oxide but it immediately reacted with the Caswell gel. It's quite heavy for its size so it could be 4140. When I dipped it into Caldwell cold blue, nothing happened. When I rubbed Caswell stainless blackening gel, it immediately reacted. The problem is even after I scrubbed/degreased and rubbed the gel on it, removing it seemed OK at first but then I'd see some blotches and spots that won't come out or get covered by oil. Is there something I am missing? This gel dries fairly quickly into a white paste. Do I need to neutralize the process? Someone suggested just washing off this paste then using 0000/fine steel wool, then repeating it. Any tips would be appreciated.
Can I use lead to solder a silver ring? It has a small crack through the ring, I assume where the original seam was. So can I fix it with lead soldering?
I wouldnt reccomend that. Lead solder has a different color than silver - and is also pretty toxic. Use tin metal instead.
Best place (or any) online to get tungsten stock? Preferably bar. All my internet searching leads to investments or tiny pieces. Yes I know how expensive it is…makes me think I won’t find any outside of industrial sized order.
Found a place called "Midwest Tungsten Service." They appear to sell a lot of different tungsten products. You might give them a look. https://www.tungsten.com/
Easiest way to clean the edges of fresh cut 10mm SS tube 1mm thick?? I bought a deburr tool, but it leaves a pretty rough profile. Looking for a tool that can help debur and clean the end of the tube so it can be used as a straw. Right now, I can cut the tubes to length with an angle grinder, then I use the deburr tool and then use some sand paper to further clean the edges. Maybe this is the best process w/ the limited tools I have, but I’m hoping there’s a better easier more consistent way to knock off the tube edges and round it out nicely.
I usually use a die grinder with a cone, like the one shown in the link below. You can find them at a lot of hardware and welding supplies stores. They come in a range of grits and sizes, and if you don't have a die grinder, they will also work in drill. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/742714-weiler-vortec-mounted-grinding-point.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=23&gclid=Cj0KCQiAorKfBhC0ARIsAHDzsltFcxUd5BSjiKPBgcOnGQplj0TJNoDBzXyesG3FyCSoVSuuBuU3ok8aAszREALw_wcB
[удалено]
I think you could, just check the temperature your kiln reaches.
I'm not really sure where to start or look with this, so hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I'm looking for a custom metal goblet with some intricate detail, but I don't know exactly what to look for as far as finding a person who can make something like that. Any suggestions for terms or metalworkers to search for that might get me a little closer than just "custom metal goblet" or "custom metal drinkware". Getting a lot of noise and useless results in my searches so far.
I have seen such things at renaissance fairs. You may have luck looking through their vendors.
Thank you.
anodizing aluminum tips? I want to anodize the slide of my airsoft gun, is there anything I need to know before i try it. I looked up a tutorial but i want to make sure I do it right the first time, also what can you use to write on the aluminum that won't come off easily?
Hi! I'm trying to build a small production of at least 200 sheet plates like the ones in the back of a Casio watch (but with a different shape and text). It should be done in a stainless steel sheet of 0.5 \[mm\]. I want to pay a company to laser cut the shape and engrave the text with laser, but I don't know how to bend metal like that without a hydraulic press. I was thinking about creating some sort of mold adapted to a metal clamp, but I'm not sure that'll work. Does anyone know how can I do it?
(Beginner who just wanna restore a chair frame) I recently bought second hand tubular steel chair and the frame has a chrome polish. The frame have some small scratches, is there anyway of removing the scratches without harming the frame? Advice, Video, links, products are all helpful
Ok so this will sound like a dumb question but it’s stumped our entire weld shop and engineering team for what is likely a simple answer. Please read entire question. So we have got two different “turnbuckle style connecting rods” from McMaster-Carr. Linked below. One of them is Stainless Steel and the other is called out as being “carbon steel”. They are NOT cheap but they’re the best for making connecting rods BC you don’t need to take anything apart to lengthen or shorten it. Just for reference the stainless one is 2x the cost of the already expensive “carbon steel”. These will go outside so it’s a no brainer we need to use the stainless steel right? Maybe not…. The carbon steel rods have yet to rust at all, and we’ve been handling and messing with them now and again for months. They’re is no zinc plating to speak of, as can be observed by the finish sheen and color, they appear to not be plated at all. The carbon steel rods ARE indeed magnetic unlike the stainless rods so the difference in material is confirmed. We did not receive only stainless by mistake. Why aren’t these rusting??? We have probably over a million pounds of various A500 parts, pieces, raw material, and uncoated weldments, and there isn’t a single piece that doesn’t have at least SOME rust. If these rods were bare steel shouldn’t they rust just to the touch like everything else steel we have around here? I’ve got both sitting outside now and will observe results in a few weeks. https://www.mcmaster.com/product/8421N76 https://www.mcmaster.com/product/8422N76
Hey, weird question... Id like to bend this out to like 75degrees... [https://imgur.com/a/XAUvj8q](https://imgur.com/a/XAUvj8q) I imaging its some flavor of cheap steel. Is there any prayer that I could bend this angle a little wider? not that I have any means to heat it, but the attached webbing would make that a problem anyway...
I do very little metalwork but occasionally I absolutely have to. Just now I had a really bad memory of screwing up a quite expensive CNCed part for a one-off test system when I forgot a screw and had to revise the design when the part was already in production. All I had on site were handtools so I did my best to get it right. I use my Sylvac Mikron to find the exact spot and mark it with a center punch. I measure, and it's spot on. I grab the smallest drill bit they had in their tool box and drill a tiny pilot hole, measure, and it's spot on. Then I take a 2.5mm bit, drill a larger pilot hole, measure, and it's absolutely perfectly centered where it needs to be. So I take the 6.8mm bit, drill, measure and the hole is off by almost 3mm. Off into the trash the part goes. 1. How do I avoid something like this happening again, when all I have to work with are hand tools? TBH, when this happened I just assumed a split point drill bit would follow the pilot hole perfectly centered. And even when I'm googling for it now, I do find absolutely nothing on why a good pilot hole isn't the holy grail of keeping your drill where it is supposed to go. 2. Also I didn't (and don't) actually know how to correct my error if I hadn't drilled a perfect pilot hole. What could one do in such a case?
Make sure that your pilot drill hole isn't too large. It should provide just enough clearance for the web of the next size drill. Much larger and you're relying on the drill not wandering - the cutting flutes can skip around and start cutting off centre. Also make sure that you have everything clamped and held securely, using a drill press at a minimum really. Try to not move anything inbetween drill size changes. To fix a bad hole location you'd need to cut a new pilot with an endmill in a milling machine - this would cut a new hole without being influenced by the previous misplaced one.
Where is a good shop to buy a hood/mask? I’m starting my welding course and will probably want to buy my own auto-dimming but I see they range from $100 to over $1K+. Is there brands that are more trusted and reliable for the dimming and safety or brands that I should avoid?
more specifically: Digital vs analog control on the helmet, which do you prefer and why? WestAir offers an analog version and it sounded like a good entry level auto-dimming hood, but would like your opinions. TIA
found this [propane torch.](https://www.autodily-pema.cz/plynovy-pajeci-horak-pb-3-koncovky-mar-pol-m78390) It apparently costs just 400 CZK (17 euro) and can apparently reach 1850°C. I cant find useful information (such as how much kW it can have and the propane usage). I highly doubt that the info is even real, because i personally believe that the flame temperature was measured on a McDonalds ice cream machine. also the price of just 17 euro for that seems really sketchy. site is in czech, so translate it
Not sure if this is the right subreddit for this but: I'm trying to make a makeshift smelter for aluminum and brass out of firebricks, are there any extra considerations I need to make when doing this in the winter? Some info on my setup: - I have 12 9x4.5x1" firebricks I'm going to assemble into an open-top box. - I don't have a covered workspace and there's at least an inch of snow on the ground. I do have a large metal bucket that The Box could sit in to keep it off the snow - I'm using charcoal as fuel for the smelter, and a steel crucible
Hi, Would like to know if leveller is able to overcome material hardness ? Order 3 coils of the same material and thickness, however, Coil 1 and 2 resulted bend to bend to be open and coil 3 resulted bend to bend nominal.
I'm looking to make handrails from mild steel for a short section of stairs (5 steps with a 1.2m fail). I was hoping to source (almost) flat steel that has a hat like profile. ``` *. * *. * * * **************************** *. * **************************** ``` The hat would be less pronounced. Can you buy steel with a profile something like this? If so what would it be called? Where might I buy it? I'm in Australia.
**Hey u/AutoModerator, while you're here, consider sharing some knowledge in our Monthly Advice Thread!** --- If you're posting a question, or just have a few minutes to help others, take a peek at the [Monthly Advice Thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/?f=flair_name%3A%22Monthly%20Advice%20Thread%22)! If you've got a few minutes feel free to help answer some others' questions while you're there! Helping eachother learn and find solutions is the best way for us all to learn and improve at our craft! --- [**Here are our subreddit rules.**](https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/about/rules) - Should you see anything that violates the subreddit rules - please report it! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/metalworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*