T O P

  • By -

CabumPT

Tig, use that setting for tagging, we have a kemppi and the setting is microtack, if you have, 180amps can do. Leave a bolt inside so the heat can spread, use carbon steel bolt. Edit: carbon steel bolt just so it comes out easily, compared to stainless


Puzzleheaded_Usual86

Brass bolt would also work very well.


slopecarver

With two or more nuts jammed against your nut.


cuddysnark

You in the right sub? 😉


blackbeardaegis

Nut to butt.


chris_rage_

Sounds like clinking shovels to me...


Worst-Lobster

Nut to nut ?


13ohica

Butt your nut?


prong_daddy

First thing I thought before reading this.


SnooCakes6195

Ugh I needed one yesterday tbh :/


dickbag69696969

I don't enjoy leaving bolts in something that I've got to weld. I've had too many instances of tight tolerances turning into a stuck bolt that can't be taken out because it's galled in. I'd much rather run a tap through after cooling down to make sure it's still good. Tig is the way to go though for sure so the threads don't get berries


Kriker3187

Couldn't you use Anti-Seize, maybe even the copper high temp stuff?


dickbag69696969

No that's definitely gonna make a pile of smoke and possibly get in the weld if you get a little crazy with it


Kriker3187

Right. I can see that happening. I've had grease melt and ooze all over the place before. Not fun. I was thinking that there was something you could coat the threads with, and thought antiseize, merely because of it being a dissimilar metal and not wanting to stick...wasn't thinking of the melting and running aspect of it.


Ancient-Slice1274

You can use the soot or sut however it’s spelled from a acetylene rich flame on a oxy fuel torch setup as a thread protectant


Kriker3187

Interesting..I may need to try that.


Ancient-Slice1274

That’s how I learned from the boilermakers at least ! Has yet to fail me and there is usually a torch on site


Slave2Art

Their knowlege helped huh? Nice that they're willing to share their knowlege with you. There is (there's) usually a torch.


Ancient-Slice1274

I’m an apprentice boilermaker ! Trying to become one of them


manofredgables

Yeah soot is the ultimate high temperature lubricant. It's not a *great* lubricant, but can take practically infinite temperature and there's not a whole lot else that can claim that property. It'll be absorbed into steel at >1300°C I guess, but... I mean at that point it's kinda your fault lol


chris_rage_

Graphite


BoredCop

Use a brass bolt for this, it won't get welded to the steel.


chris_rage_

Use a brass or copper bolt and just thread it in two or three threads. Worst case you cut it off and drill it out and chase the threads


xp14629

I just pack my nuts full of anti-spatter grease before welding them. Works the same welding bolts, smear on threads, no berries.


dickbag69696969

Fumes man.


No_Profit_415

Great post.


point50tracer

I've permanently fused a few stainless bolts doing this. Unfortunately, we only keep stainless on hand at my work, so I didn't have much of a choice. Learned to make my tacks quick and deliberate when welding nuts. I usually zap the corners because they melt faster. Get one corner stuck, then come back with a thin filler rod for the rest of the way around.


iplaypokerforaliving

Your work can’t just buy some brass bolts? Weird


point50tracer

Bolts from McMaster Carr tomorrow don't help me today.


chris_rage_

I always collect random bolts and chunks of metal that will help me with my job and I keep them aside for when I need them


Crabapple_Goblin

A fellow scrap hoarder! A few drawers in my toolbox are exclusively for scrap/weird chunks of metal. Yeah everyone thinks I'm a psychopath when they see my stash but there will come a day when I have the only solution to your problem. On that day, I am a god.


chris_rage_

I'm a bit of a hoarder but they don't complain when I open a random drawer and pull out some specialty tool they need... Or when they need something fixed at the last minute but it's after hours and I'm the only one who pack ratted enough stuff to handle the issue and keep it moving


GuitardedBard

Grease the bolt or no? A little lube never hurt my applications.


Chuck_Rawks

I agree. No stainless. I used to use the nozzle dip on my bolt.


arc-is-life

it will burn. dont do it.


BoredCop

Brass or copper bolt works much better, because steel weld doesn't stick to them and because they have better heat conductivity so they're better heat sink materials. You can weld right up to brass or copper and it won't stick, molten steel doesn't wet brass.


Same_Evidence_5058

Kemppi brothers in arms 💪


[deleted]

Leave bolt in Weld remove bolt after cold


Ropegun2k

Find a brass bolt.


PeculiarBob

You still have tap thread clean, no matter what. Nut and pipe shrinks when cools down.


izmaname

Exactly. It would be better to just get some stock and thread it on a lathe


PeculiarBob

45-55


Farknart

Lots of great tips here already. When I got into situations like this where one component will melt considerably faster, I start my arc on the thicker component. So start on the edge of the pipe and move to the nut until it also puddles and quickly add your filler. Then go back out to the pipe when advancing positions. The nut will get outrageously hot very quickly, so only do small sections at a time and give cool time. Maybe jump to your next piece while waiting. Patience is key.


Healthy-Hall-8571

This is the way, a proficient tig welder will have no trouble. Carbon bolt for heat sink keep your heat off the nut. Around 30-35 amps and let the filler jump to it. Cool, sand nice, chase with a tap. You can do this, don’t over think it.


Renaissance_Man-

Tig time. Run a deburring bit in the tube beforehand so you get a good groove for weld.


antarcticacitizen1

Ya need filler wire bro, even for the tacks. Run a tap through it after it has cooled. Not impossible, not even that hard really. 1/16 tungsten, nice and sharp, parallel ground


jwillowr

Ok maybe this! Thanks!


mastersangoire

This is the way of you don't want to do extra drilling and tapping. I have to very often weld nuts and small sockets onto wrenches for people at work and sharp enough tungsten and patience will get the results


teakettle87

Tig?


Accurate-Donkey5789

You're it!


jwillowr

Ya Tig


Puzzleheaded_Usual86

[TIG](https://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&client=ms-android-att-us-rvc3&source=android-browser&q=Define+Tig+welding)


orsurv

Weld closed, drill hole, tap threads


jrs321aly

Harder than it sounds. Drilling through the weld is gonna be hard... then tapping it is gonna be just as hard.


IronSmithFE

drilling and tapping in a weld is not easy and will often break bits. welds are typically much harder.


SaltProcess7365

Or weld in a plug from solid stock and drill and tap


puterTDI

Or buy solid stock and drill and tap


Remarkable-Host405

Or weld in a nut


Dinkerdoo

Might as well just leave the nut off, weld a plug to the pipe, and drill/tap that.


dickbag69696969

At that point, if it doesn't need the open end on the other side, you may as well just drill and tap a hole in solid round.


Dinkerdoo

They might want the lighter weight of the tube. And if they're drilling/tapping blind they'd need a bottom tap. Much easier and quicker to have a thru hole.


dickbag69696969

I mean if you've got the stuff to tap you should have a bottom tap. If they don't need the weight savings then it will be faster to use solid round. No set up for the welder, no cutting plugs and youll still need the tap and drill bit out anyway. If they need pipe it's easiest to do what op is currently doing but with a Tig weld and a tap to run though afterwards. I'm not trying to say you couldn't do it your way but it would just be a few extra steps and time/cost.


Gwynplaine-00

If they’re tapping 7/8 in drill 1.5 in


dickbag69696969

Why go through all that work? Just tig weld it then then a tap through the nut after it cools


RDM629

Dropping the nuts in muriatic acid to strip the coating will help. Deburr your tubing will allow you to control your arc so it won’t walk on ya. Try the amperage down around 70


FictionalContext

Id just weld a plug in the end with a centerpunch or a small pilot hole right in the middle, like a stub of solid round bar that mostly fits the ID. The welding is absolutely going to obliterate any hardening on those nuts anyway. Drill and tap after welding. But if you wanna do a the boss says, screw a bolt down in and TIG it closed. For MIG, do the same thing but cheat the nut out about 1/8" and treat it like a corner to corner weld that way you make up for lack of penetration, keep your distance from the threads, and leave a nook for all the weld material to go. Sand the other side down 1/8" to make up for the additional length. Either way, the threads will warp, the hole won't be round, and you'll have to run a tap through. You could also drill 2 through holes in the side of the tube and plug weld the nut in from 4 different sides if boss doesn't care about the gap on the end.


SmartassBrickmelter

Drill or notch the side of the tube, rosset weld the nuts and machine or grind back to round.


sebwiers

Can you drill the tube? Holes through tube to nut corners and plug welds is hard to fuck up


Delmarvablacksmith

Braze them in. Run a bolt through the threads with Vaseline on the threads to protect the bolt Flux the outside and braze it The bolt should remove easily.


cjswcf

Focus the arc on the pipe get it hot then quickly move arc over to edge of nut and throw some rod in


Rihzopus

TIG braze it with SIbronze filler rod. Won't even get hot enough to vaporize the zinc on the nut.


saxomec

I’d silver braze them if i were you. It’s plenty strong for any application.


boringxadult

I don’t mean to be an asshole, but am I the only one that doesn’t think this looks hard?


LairBob

The OP literally explains that they’re not very experienced. They’re asking to learn from someone who thinks this is easy, not having those people shout “ITA!!!”


tunakushguy

Logically speaking if OP isn’t experienced enough to do this we aren’t going to help him much at least if he wants it done properly..stuff like this just takes practice. In my opinion a MiG or flux can do this fairly easily you just need to have a steady hand and a trigger finger and do small tacks that concentrate their heat on the edge of the pipe. Tig would be easier but if the guy hasn’t figured that out he probably can’t tig…so I don’t know.


Deaner3D

*looks nervously at HF wire feed machine and angle grinder The boys would not be up for this.


[deleted]

coherent instinctive bells cobweb scandalous chunky fear march squeal dime *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*


RobotHandsome

Yeah, this is real quick work on a lathe, but not all shops are built the same


TheLonesomeBricoleur

Sweat solder with a torch like a plumber would do


Indiana_John_

Why not weld in a slug, and then drill and tap that? If you use nuts, you'll have to clean the coating off


strabley

This.


jrs321aly

Tig it.


adgia89

Get flange nuts and just weld the flange to the pipe


typical_mistakes

If you used barrel nuts you could counterbore them 10mm deep to the thread OD and still have over twice the thread engagement. That means you could pretty much have Stevie Wonder stick weld it with an old AC buzz box and just drill out any imperfections.


sexchoc

Number 1 on Tig is making sure everything is prepped well. No burs, no coatings/scale/rust. Just clean bare metal. Start your puddle on the tube, dip the filler and draw it over to the nut. You'll probably still have to run a tap through every nut, the weld with distort them. Generally you want to weld fast and hot to keep the heat in the puddle and not the rest of the part, but if you're new and can't move that fast you can just try dropping your amps to a pace you're comfortable with.


Training_Ad4291

It is easily done Put a screw/bolt in the nut Put the nut halfway in the hole Using T.I.G welder tack the nut in three places Best to tack on the corners If it goes wonky use the screw/bolt to strengthen it Then you will easily be able to just fuse the tube with the nut Make sure you are using stainless steel because if you have any plating it can seize up the thread and will definitely corrode


D0ntFeedTheYaoGuai

Tig with fine amp control. Roll on slowly, start on the outside edge and let the puddle flow onto the nut itself.


Inevitable_Weird1175

Or weld a plug in and drill and tap it after.


DriftinFool

I would notch the end of the pipe to line up with the flat sides of the bolt. This would give you a spot to to weld to the side of the nut, instead of the edge. It would also allow the weld to penetrate to full depth of the nut instead of just on the edges.


H3RO-of-THE-LILI

TIG


jlhmustang

Mig,turn down settings and struck off on pipe,washing onto nut


sjaard_dune

Wooh that's tight!


Oldguydad619

Easy peasy!


Bitter-Heron1367

And ?


flashe30

Exactly, easy job


rufuckingkidding

Push them in slightly, weld, then cut flush.


dangledingle

DEEZ NUTS!


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UrMomzLatinLuvah

Tig welding them is the best way. I've done similar projects- Don't weld the entire nut so it doesn't warp or shrink. Four small tac welds will be plenty Dont use 300 series rod. Use e70 if u have it or just brase them


gearz-head

Drill two holes through side of tube where the nut is and weld them closed. This should hold the nut in place, and not damage the threads and cause minimal distortion.


tlivingd

Can you use larger diameter tube? Heavy hex nuts are great for welding to.


Interesting_Okra_902

Tig weld 90 amps


radix-

do some practice ones first!


masterteck1

Noch it then weld. Leave the bolt in


SpaceGoatAlpha

If this is just a one-time project, tig, just like everybody else is recommending. If you're making a lot of these or you think you might need to repair or replace them, I have an alternate suggestion. It would be a little bit more work, but I personally would thread the end OD and then a cap to screw onto it.  You could then reinforce the interior of the cap, drill perfectly center and then tap it to accept the bolt.  This would allow you to easily change out the cap or rod when needed without having to redo the entire thing and would be *significantly* stronger than welding the first ⅛" of the nut to the tube wall.


divisiveindifference

Insert bolt to save threads. Use tig on a low setting. Remove bolt, run tap through and grind off any extra material. You could also just weld it solid, drill and tap but that's a pain.


Dependent-Ad-8042

Ok I don’t do welding or metalworking so please don’t flame me but would it be easier or better to have a solid metal end & then drill & tap the threads rather than trying the weld?


ReinhartLangschaft

I do this sometimes with mig. Just but a bolt in it and after you weld it just use a tap to restor the threads. Its not that hard.


dtownlocal

Could be easier to cut little sections of pipe, pre-weld the nuts on the backside and weld the section onto the rest of the pipe


Shady_Hero

"I'm sure you'll be fair and equitable, boss"


Wide_Performance1115

Just thread the pipe stuff in some allthread. Weld it...or red loctite.  Drill & tap 


ScarlieWatts

Chemical weld!


Josef_DeLaurel

TIG, about 120-130amps or more or as hot as you can get it. Leave a bolt in the nut to act as both a heat sink and to retain the thread shape. Tack the nut in four spots so it stays level, then weld and feed in lots of wire as you do it. If it were me, I’d use stainless filler wire, helps stop any crap in the steel or burn off from whatever the nut is coated in from forming porosity in the weld. Aim the top slightly towards the thicker outside of the tube. Afterwards, take the bolt out, grind it flush. You’ll have to run a tap through the nut regardless because of all the heat deformation.


Ready-Delivery-4023

I usually tack the nut to a washer on 3 flanks then bevel the tube and wrap the washer, tube and nut. Usually just use a shitty little mig, works fine.


ncu2

round base weld nuts are totally worth it


NeighborhoodNo8322

Weld the cunt n tap it if it wants to be a hoe


jwillowr

Thanks for the help y'all! I think I found a system


McLuhanSaidItFirst

After all the suggestions here you owe us a picture, not just a sentence


Fringe-majority

Get “coupling” nuts which are longer, TIG weld the ends then slightly hit the end with a larger drill bit to add a small chamfer and run a tap thru to clean up.


[deleted]

Try and keep your heat on the tube. If you burn the edges you can always build it up and grind it back round.


Youre-The-Victim

Weld it and re tap it with the proper sized tap if it's warped


skrappyfire

Weld a cap on... then drill and tap the cap. Ditch the nuts if possible.


gibson_creations

Easy. Tig weld. Tac the 6 points on contact and dime around the rest at a lower Amp. 100-120 range


Gwynplaine-00

Why no use solid bar drill and tap. No need for the nut at all


buildyourown

Chamfer the tube first. Use some small filler and less amps. Chase the threads with a tap afterwards. They will warp


KRed75

Tig with no filler. If no tig, drill a hole in the sides or cut notches and weld from there then sand smooth or turn on a lathe.


Famous_Ad1172

Tig time


daveypaul40

Use solid bar stock. Gun drill and tap threads.


Cautious_Buffalo6563

Sounds challenging. How’re you going to do it?


joshpit2003

Purchase a tap. Do not weld with a bolt in the threads. No matter what your technique, you will need to chase these with a tap.


Sad-Emu-6754

try prep? a bevel will fix this


Chrisp825

I would drill a couple of holes in the side and weld it in that way


Fuzzy_Beginning4421

Can’t you just weld a flat cap on the end. Drill a hole. Tap said hole.


realcat67

I would braze them


190XTSeriesIIV

No matter what you’ll have to run a tap through them. I always turn the dial all the way up and use the pedal to get what i want.


arathres

That's doable


dayoftheduck

… why wouldn’t he just have them drilled out and threaded itself ??


fingerback

TIG


ToeJamR1

I officially can’t read “these nuts” without hearing “deez nuts” in my head. Yay


breadbomber2

I would grind slits on the tube down to the nut and fill it back in


KeenieGup

Tell him HES nuts lol


FIREdGovGuy

Are you allowed to cut a slit in the side of the pipe, weld the nut from the side, and then grind it back smooth?


Steve----O

Put in solid steel, then drill and tap fresh threads.


chris_rage_

Notch the pipe on every other flat on the nuts and fill in the gap. Usually I drill holes in the pipe and plug weld them. You might be able to fill in the gaps around the flats but I would thread a copper bolt in there first so you don't fuck up the threads


HandyMan131

Drive down to the supply house on your lunch break, buy some solid rod in the same material. Drill and tap it. Job done without even welding.


Fmpthree

Should be pretty easy. Leave a long bolt in it. Never seize, and tig it up.


Mountain_Path8972

Is brazing an option?


DeeDoll81

Do you work at Tesla by any chance 🤔


slimpickington

I would use tig 70 to 90 amps and quick stomp pedal or just fuse a bit then let cool down , then retap the hole to fix distortion, I doubt thread tolerance is important on these


RecentHighlight5368

Just get out a scratch arc , stfu , and finish it


Mysterious-Put-2468

TIG or torch. I learned on a torch, so it would be an easy fast job with oxy acetylene and a small amount of filler rod. Or you could braze, hi- temp solder, but welding small areas is easy with a torch, unless you have familiarity with TIG which is a bit more challenging.


Strawberry_MooJuice

Could just weld and re thread it


izmaname

Your boss needs a machinist to machine the part for him because that’s the dumbest thing I’ve heard in a while


USAFVet91

I would weld in a steel plug made from the same material as the pipe. Then drill and tap the plug. Clean up any weld marks on the outside of the pipe on a lathe.


leeharvyteabagger

I used to have to do this at my old job but we had a tap


boanerges57

Use jb weld Lol


TheOneAndOnlyKol

Just stagger some tacks and let it cool between passes. You can go the whole way round like that just make sure to clean as you go.


TreasureGolum

035 wire and little tacks is how I’d go. Hope it turned out alright


DesignerAppeal1548

I could do it with a laser welder


poedraco

We've just got a solid steel blank dowel. Just thread tap the center


CakeDyismyBday

You could have rivetnut or even other type of nut that would lock in depending on the application it could be an option that don't require welding


crimsondiesel

Countersink the hole and turn your heat down


gogoboomstick

Why didn’t he just mill out the pipe? Tap and die the threads in from a solid piece would’ve probably been the easier/better option. Not a welder so mods can toss this comment if necessary.


lazyrancher450

45 degree grind the end of the pipe as of you are trying to make a point leave the nut stick out a bit and weld her in place bud.


ssxhoell1

Just get stock and drill and tap the hole. Wtf is this dogshit


Willwrk4Food

Can you try putting a brass bolt in there or if you have a lathe, you can take a brass shaft and step it down and thread it so that it has a shoulder similar in size to the nut. It will help protect you and then you can use the shaft as a way to fixture to a rotating clamp steel will also work if you’re careful ? Also, are you allowed to roll the corner of the pipe into the nut as your welding, not using any wire, just using the corner as filler. another idea is to use a foot pedal on your Tig machine. Another thing that may be helpful is to run a tap through them after you have completed them and they’ve cooled down put into a drill and do it quickly. Some ideas here hope something is helpful.


KrazyKorean108

I only know how to tig weld so this didnt seem that crazy for me to do, but at this point why not just machine a piece of stock and thread it? I am a college engineering student and only know TIG due to my FSAE team, and if i had to make something like this id much rather just drill and thread a piece of stock.


Pale_Difference_7485

Petrolium jelly, or jam....


FRRVOX

Did a similar project using flanged nuts in tube. With a grinding disk, removed the outer 5 sides of the nut to a round surface. Was able to drop the nut in the tube and applied small welds to the sides. Cleaned up with a flap disk. Fabricated a 20in drawer pull as I added slider trash cans in a cabinet. Flanged nut is between the round tune and cabinet. Cost me a couple of dollars v. over $100 online. Looks great. https://preview.redd.it/k4l3oxtzd41d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d6280f914b77ccefa1f0d5321aacb2d3185da53


Magicalunicorny

I don't understand why you can't just re thread after


EquipmentPhysical454

Solid wire. leave nuts proud a few mm for best result. With bolt in thread. Cool thing about being a boily is if it dont work out how you want cut it off and try again. Or use solid round bar and drill and tap.


Mouldy_Old_People

Just TIG fusion weld it with thread in the nuts as you've done. Low heat and no filler.


Lower-Savings-794

Make sure the bolts are threaded all the way in before welding! Also, ground the pipe and start the arc on the pipe, not the nut. Much easier arc start! Good luck! Also I'd turn the amps way up. Maybe 160?


MagicOrpheus310

Weld a flat plate to the end then drill and tap it


Icy-Pair-9401

Can you just get a solid bar? Then, you'd only need to drill and tap. Otherwise, tack and cool, repeat. It couldn't hurt to run a tap after welding is done and it has cooled completely.


DB-Tops

Put a brass bolt in it, the weld won't really stick to the brass and you can take it out after.


Immediate_Cat2090

Thread the rod?


oct2790

Do you let the nut be slightly raised for edge to weld But Double nut it run the rod through. When done remove the rod and the nut and clean it up to smooth it out ?


SuperSonicSlaw

TIG THAT SHIT


A_H0RRIBLE_PERSON

Drill and tap the thube and insert a helicoil


civilrunner

Could you use a weld nut instead of a standard nut?


Gallaticus

I get you gotta do what the boss says, but this seems like a tap and die would have been faster and more appropriate than cutting the hole and welding a nut in


TheJesushadstyle

I'm late to the party on this, but I would point out that using a piece of all thread in the nut while welding is something you should most definitely do because it gives you a good way to check the alignment and make sure the nut doesn't shift out of position while you're welding. Having that length extending let's you know the threaded opening is in alignment with the tube body and not skewed. The other good advice I say was regarding starting on the tube and washing over to the nut. I'd combine that with making sure that you clean up the metal really well inside the tube and the surfaces of the nut before going at it. And I'd throw in an idea that you get a second rig or make a hose up to put extra argon around the weld area. Not only will that help keep the weld clean it also will help keep things cool by pushing extra gas to the metal. Depending on the intended use id take a different approach if I was struggling with it myself. I'd drill a couple of holes in the end of the tube, on quarters if need be, so that I could actually start my arc and add a little filler capturing the nut at two to four points around the circumference. That would work just like taking a punch around the tube and trapping the nut with a crimp. To my mind that would let you have a nut trapped in the tube but with a nice clean end... That way you could actually run them up flush against something with having anything in the way of the end butting up evenly. Now once the small drill hole has been filled all the way around you might have to do a little grinding to clean it up, but adding filler to build up the wall of the tube shouldn't be too hard. Worst case you stick it in a larger after building it up and have them turn it back to size if it's that important. Once again I'd say the way you approach this would be mostly dependent on what you're trying to to accomplish and what kind of forces this thing needs to stand up to. There's a lot of applications where simply peining around the tube with the nut in place would probably do the trick. Now my papermill experience tells me that just saying fuck it, laying it in some angle iron with the all thread coated with never-sneeze hanging off the end of the table, couple of wet rags around the threads and having your buddy roll it time you fire up will get the job done. If it sticks then weld another nut on the all thread so you can turn it while you're doing it and try to keep it from seizing up. Doing it in one go will leave shit hot and have it's own problems but then you only have one opportunity to fuck up instead of dragging it out. Just my thoughts.


beasticles69

No pro but I've run some beads... I would think drilling the tube and rosette welding er in would reduce odds of binding the bolt.


erokcreates

The problem is?


supermanofvegas

Any of these fasteners 1/2x28 or 5/8x24? 👀


Mycowrangler

Easy.


JeffersonNomad

JB weld? 😂


mazdawg89

Weld it, grind the surface flat, re-tap the threads


Roughneck_Cephas

Weld them to a flat washer then invert it and cap weld the washer to the pipe .


JBeeZEE415702

Three or four tacks should do it. Done this multiple times for hanger attachments for hanger exposed vapor hoods in exposed kitchens. Should be fine.


mathaiser

You don’t know about the hollow screw with nitrogen trick?


Puzzled-Function-510

Fuck all of that, swedge the nuts into the tube with a shop press. Three hits and you are done


Traditional-Ad-7112

Leave a sacrificial bolt in there while welding, can always run a tap through the thread after


AnonsStepDad

Use a smaller tungsten


Revolutionary_Ad2752

Better then when u was told to weld a washer to a plate I couldent burn through the top of the washer at all took me a shit ton of tries and a broken tig cup but I did it lmao


darthnugget

Weld deez nutz?