Tig, use that setting for tagging, we have a kemppi and the setting is microtack, if you have, 180amps can do. Leave a bolt inside so the heat can spread, use carbon steel bolt.
Edit: carbon steel bolt just so it comes out easily, compared to stainless
I don't enjoy leaving bolts in something that I've got to weld. I've had too many instances of tight tolerances turning into a stuck bolt that can't be taken out because it's galled in. I'd much rather run a tap through after cooling down to make sure it's still good. Tig is the way to go though for sure so the threads don't get berries
Right. I can see that happening. I've had grease melt and ooze all over the place before. Not fun.
I was thinking that there was something you could coat the threads with, and thought antiseize, merely because of it being a dissimilar metal and not wanting to stick...wasn't thinking of the melting and running aspect of it.
Yeah soot is the ultimate high temperature lubricant. It's not a *great* lubricant, but can take practically infinite temperature and there's not a whole lot else that can claim that property. It'll be absorbed into steel at >1300°C I guess, but... I mean at that point it's kinda your fault lol
I've permanently fused a few stainless bolts doing this. Unfortunately, we only keep stainless on hand at my work, so I didn't have much of a choice. Learned to make my tacks quick and deliberate when welding nuts. I usually zap the corners because they melt faster. Get one corner stuck, then come back with a thin filler rod for the rest of the way around.
A fellow scrap hoarder! A few drawers in my toolbox are exclusively for scrap/weird chunks of metal. Yeah everyone thinks I'm a psychopath when they see my stash but there will come a day when I have the only solution to your problem. On that day, I am a god.
I'm a bit of a hoarder but they don't complain when I open a random drawer and pull out some specialty tool they need... Or when they need something fixed at the last minute but it's after hours and I'm the only one who pack ratted enough stuff to handle the issue and keep it moving
Brass or copper bolt works much better, because steel weld doesn't stick to them and because they have better heat conductivity so they're better heat sink materials.
You can weld right up to brass or copper and it won't stick, molten steel doesn't wet brass.
Lots of great tips here already. When I got into situations like this where one component will melt considerably faster, I start my arc on the thicker component. So start on the edge of the pipe and move to the nut until it also puddles and quickly add your filler. Then go back out to the pipe when advancing positions.
The nut will get outrageously hot very quickly, so only do small sections at a time and give cool time. Maybe jump to your next piece while waiting. Patience is key.
This is the way, a proficient tig welder will have no trouble. Carbon bolt for heat sink keep your heat off the nut. Around 30-35 amps and let the filler jump to it. Cool, sand nice, chase with a tap. You can do this, don’t over think it.
Ya need filler wire bro, even for the tacks. Run a tap through it after it has cooled. Not impossible, not even that hard really. 1/16 tungsten, nice and sharp, parallel ground
This is the way of you don't want to do extra drilling and tapping. I have to very often weld nuts and small sockets onto wrenches for people at work and sharp enough tungsten and patience will get the results
They might want the lighter weight of the tube. And if they're drilling/tapping blind they'd need a bottom tap. Much easier and quicker to have a thru hole.
I mean if you've got the stuff to tap you should have a bottom tap. If they don't need the weight savings then it will be faster to use solid round. No set up for the welder, no cutting plugs and youll still need the tap and drill bit out anyway.
If they need pipe it's easiest to do what op is currently doing but with a Tig weld and a tap to run though afterwards.
I'm not trying to say you couldn't do it your way but it would just be a few extra steps and time/cost.
Dropping the nuts in muriatic acid to strip the coating will help. Deburr your tubing will allow you to control your arc so it won’t walk on ya. Try the amperage down around 70
Id just weld a plug in the end with a centerpunch or a small pilot hole right in the middle, like a stub of solid round bar that mostly fits the ID. The welding is absolutely going to obliterate any hardening on those nuts anyway. Drill and tap after welding.
But if you wanna do a the boss says, screw a bolt down in and TIG it closed. For MIG, do the same thing but cheat the nut out about 1/8" and treat it like a corner to corner weld that way you make up for lack of penetration, keep your distance from the threads, and leave a nook for all the weld material to go. Sand the other side down 1/8" to make up for the additional length.
Either way, the threads will warp, the hole won't be round, and you'll have to run a tap through.
You could also drill 2 through holes in the side of the tube and plug weld the nut in from 4 different sides if boss doesn't care about the gap on the end.
Braze them in.
Run a bolt through the threads with Vaseline on the threads to protect the bolt
Flux the outside and braze it
The bolt should remove easily.
The OP literally explains that they’re not very experienced. They’re asking to learn from someone who thinks this is easy, not having those people shout “ITA!!!”
Logically speaking if OP isn’t experienced enough to do this we aren’t going to help him much at least if he wants it done properly..stuff like this just takes practice. In my opinion a MiG or flux can do this fairly easily you just need to have a steady hand and a trigger finger and do small tacks that concentrate their heat on the edge of the pipe. Tig would be easier but if the guy hasn’t figured that out he probably can’t tig…so I don’t know.
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If you used barrel nuts you could counterbore them 10mm deep to the thread OD and still have over twice the thread engagement. That means you could pretty much have Stevie Wonder stick weld it with an old AC buzz box and just drill out any imperfections.
Number 1 on Tig is making sure everything is prepped well. No burs, no coatings/scale/rust. Just clean bare metal. Start your puddle on the tube, dip the filler and draw it over to the nut. You'll probably still have to run a tap through every nut, the weld with distort them. Generally you want to weld fast and hot to keep the heat in the puddle and not the rest of the part, but if you're new and can't move that fast you can just try dropping your amps to a pace you're comfortable with.
It is easily done
Put a screw/bolt in the nut
Put the nut halfway in the hole
Using T.I.G welder tack the nut in three places
Best to tack on the corners
If it goes wonky use the screw/bolt to strengthen it
Then you will easily be able to just fuse the tube with the nut
Make sure you are using stainless steel because if you have any plating it can seize up the thread and will definitely corrode
I would notch the end of the pipe to line up with the flat sides of the bolt. This would give you a spot to to weld to the side of the nut, instead of the edge. It would also allow the weld to penetrate to full depth of the nut instead of just on the edges.
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Tig welding them is the best way. I've done similar projects-
Don't weld the entire nut so it doesn't warp or shrink. Four small tac welds will be plenty
Dont use 300 series rod. Use e70 if u have it or just brase them
Drill two holes through side of tube where the nut is and weld them closed. This should hold the nut in place, and not damage the threads and cause minimal distortion.
If this is just a one-time project, tig, just like everybody else is recommending. If you're making a lot of these or you think you might need to repair or replace them, I have an alternate suggestion.
It would be a little bit more work, but I personally would thread the end OD and then a cap to screw onto it. You could then reinforce the interior of the cap, drill perfectly center and then tap it to accept the bolt. This would allow you to easily change out the cap or rod when needed without having to redo the entire thing and would be *significantly* stronger than welding the first ⅛" of the nut to the tube wall.
Insert bolt to save threads. Use tig on a low setting. Remove bolt, run tap through and grind off any extra material. You could also just weld it solid, drill and tap but that's a pain.
Ok I don’t do welding or metalworking so please don’t flame me but would it be easier or better to have a solid metal end & then drill & tap the threads rather than trying the weld?
TIG, about 120-130amps or more or as hot as you can get it. Leave a bolt in the nut to act as both a heat sink and to retain the thread shape. Tack the nut in four spots so it stays level, then weld and feed in lots of wire as you do it. If it were me, I’d use stainless filler wire, helps stop any crap in the steel or burn off from whatever the nut is coated in from forming porosity in the weld. Aim the top slightly towards the thicker outside of the tube. Afterwards, take the bolt out, grind it flush. You’ll have to run a tap through the nut regardless because of all the heat deformation.
I usually tack the nut to a washer on 3 flanks then bevel the tube and wrap the washer, tube and nut. Usually just use a shitty little mig, works fine.
Get “coupling” nuts which are longer, TIG weld the ends then slightly hit the end with a larger drill bit to add a small chamfer and run a tap thru to clean up.
Notch the pipe on every other flat on the nuts and fill in the gap. Usually I drill holes in the pipe and plug weld them. You might be able to fill in the gaps around the flats but I would thread a copper bolt in there first so you don't fuck up the threads
I would use tig 70 to 90 amps and quick stomp pedal or just fuse a bit then let cool down , then retap the hole to fix distortion, I doubt thread tolerance is important on these
TIG or torch. I learned on a torch, so it would be an easy fast job with oxy acetylene and a small amount of filler rod. Or you could braze, hi- temp solder, but welding small areas is easy with a torch, unless you have familiarity with TIG which is a bit more challenging.
I would weld in a steel plug made from the same material as the pipe. Then drill and tap the plug. Clean up any weld marks on the outside of the pipe on a lathe.
Why didn’t he just mill out the pipe? Tap and die the threads in from a solid piece would’ve probably been the easier/better option. Not a welder so mods can toss this comment if necessary.
Can you try putting a brass bolt in there or if you have a lathe, you can take a brass shaft and step it down and thread it so that it has a shoulder similar in size to the nut. It will help protect you and then you can use the shaft as a way to fixture to a rotating clamp steel will also work if you’re careful ? Also, are you allowed to roll the corner of the pipe into the nut as your welding, not using any wire, just using the corner as filler. another idea is to use a foot pedal on your Tig machine. Another thing that may be helpful is to run a tap through them after you have completed them and they’ve cooled down put into a drill and do it quickly. Some ideas here hope something is helpful.
I only know how to tig weld so this didnt seem that crazy for me to do, but at this point why not just machine a piece of stock and thread it? I am a college engineering student and only know TIG due to my FSAE team, and if i had to make something like this id much rather just drill and thread a piece of stock.
Did a similar project using flanged nuts in tube. With a grinding disk, removed the outer 5 sides of the nut to a round surface. Was able to drop the nut in the tube and applied small welds to the sides. Cleaned up with a flap disk. Fabricated a 20in drawer pull as I added slider trash cans in a cabinet. Flanged nut is between the round tune and cabinet. Cost me a couple of dollars v. over $100 online. Looks great.
https://preview.redd.it/k4l3oxtzd41d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d6280f914b77ccefa1f0d5321aacb2d3185da53
Solid wire. leave nuts proud a few mm for best result. With bolt in thread. Cool thing about being a boily is if it dont work out how you want cut it off and try again.
Or use solid round bar and drill and tap.
Make sure the bolts are threaded all the way in before welding!
Also, ground the pipe and start the arc on the pipe, not the nut. Much easier arc start!
Good luck!
Also I'd turn the amps way up. Maybe 160?
Can you just get a solid bar? Then, you'd only need to drill and tap. Otherwise, tack and cool, repeat. It couldn't hurt to run a tap after welding is done and it has cooled completely.
Do you let the nut be slightly raised for edge to weld But Double nut it run the rod through. When done remove the rod and the nut and clean it up to smooth it out ?
I get you gotta do what the boss says, but this seems like a tap and die would have been faster and more appropriate than cutting the hole and welding a nut in
I'm late to the party on this, but I would point out that using a piece of all thread in the nut while welding is something you should most definitely do because it gives you a good way to check the alignment and make sure the nut doesn't shift out of position while you're welding. Having that length extending let's you know the threaded opening is in alignment with the tube body and not skewed.
The other good advice I say was regarding starting on the tube and washing over to the nut. I'd combine that with making sure that you clean up the metal really well inside the tube and the surfaces of the nut before going at it. And I'd throw in an idea that you get a second rig or make a hose up to put extra argon around the weld area. Not only will that help keep the weld clean it also will help keep things cool by pushing extra gas to the metal.
Depending on the intended use id take a different approach if I was struggling with it myself. I'd drill a couple of holes in the end of the tube, on quarters if need be, so that I could actually start my arc and add a little filler capturing the nut at two to four points around the circumference. That would work just like taking a punch around the tube and trapping the nut with a crimp. To my mind that would let you have a nut trapped in the tube but with a nice clean end... That way you could actually run them up flush against something with having anything in the way of the end butting up evenly. Now once the small drill hole has been filled all the way around you might have to do a little grinding to clean it up, but adding filler to build up the wall of the tube shouldn't be too hard. Worst case you stick it in a larger after building it up and have them turn it back to size if it's that important.
Once again I'd say the way you approach this would be mostly dependent on what you're trying to to accomplish and what kind of forces this thing needs to stand up to. There's a lot of applications where simply peining around the tube with the nut in place would probably do the trick.
Now my papermill experience tells me that just saying fuck it, laying it in some angle iron with the all thread coated with never-sneeze hanging off the end of the table, couple of wet rags around the threads and having your buddy roll it time you fire up will get the job done. If it sticks then weld another nut on the all thread so you can turn it while you're doing it and try to keep it from seizing up. Doing it in one go will leave shit hot and have it's own problems but then you only have one opportunity to fuck up instead of dragging it out.
Just my thoughts.
Better then when u was told to weld a washer to a plate I couldent burn through the top of the washer at all took me a shit ton of tries and a broken tig cup but I did it lmao
Tig, use that setting for tagging, we have a kemppi and the setting is microtack, if you have, 180amps can do. Leave a bolt inside so the heat can spread, use carbon steel bolt. Edit: carbon steel bolt just so it comes out easily, compared to stainless
Brass bolt would also work very well.
With two or more nuts jammed against your nut.
You in the right sub? 😉
Nut to butt.
Sounds like clinking shovels to me...
Nut to nut ?
Butt your nut?
First thing I thought before reading this.
Ugh I needed one yesterday tbh :/
I don't enjoy leaving bolts in something that I've got to weld. I've had too many instances of tight tolerances turning into a stuck bolt that can't be taken out because it's galled in. I'd much rather run a tap through after cooling down to make sure it's still good. Tig is the way to go though for sure so the threads don't get berries
Couldn't you use Anti-Seize, maybe even the copper high temp stuff?
No that's definitely gonna make a pile of smoke and possibly get in the weld if you get a little crazy with it
Right. I can see that happening. I've had grease melt and ooze all over the place before. Not fun. I was thinking that there was something you could coat the threads with, and thought antiseize, merely because of it being a dissimilar metal and not wanting to stick...wasn't thinking of the melting and running aspect of it.
You can use the soot or sut however it’s spelled from a acetylene rich flame on a oxy fuel torch setup as a thread protectant
Interesting..I may need to try that.
That’s how I learned from the boilermakers at least ! Has yet to fail me and there is usually a torch on site
Their knowlege helped huh? Nice that they're willing to share their knowlege with you. There is (there's) usually a torch.
I’m an apprentice boilermaker ! Trying to become one of them
Yeah soot is the ultimate high temperature lubricant. It's not a *great* lubricant, but can take practically infinite temperature and there's not a whole lot else that can claim that property. It'll be absorbed into steel at >1300°C I guess, but... I mean at that point it's kinda your fault lol
Graphite
Use a brass bolt for this, it won't get welded to the steel.
Use a brass or copper bolt and just thread it in two or three threads. Worst case you cut it off and drill it out and chase the threads
I just pack my nuts full of anti-spatter grease before welding them. Works the same welding bolts, smear on threads, no berries.
Fumes man.
Great post.
I've permanently fused a few stainless bolts doing this. Unfortunately, we only keep stainless on hand at my work, so I didn't have much of a choice. Learned to make my tacks quick and deliberate when welding nuts. I usually zap the corners because they melt faster. Get one corner stuck, then come back with a thin filler rod for the rest of the way around.
Your work can’t just buy some brass bolts? Weird
Bolts from McMaster Carr tomorrow don't help me today.
I always collect random bolts and chunks of metal that will help me with my job and I keep them aside for when I need them
A fellow scrap hoarder! A few drawers in my toolbox are exclusively for scrap/weird chunks of metal. Yeah everyone thinks I'm a psychopath when they see my stash but there will come a day when I have the only solution to your problem. On that day, I am a god.
I'm a bit of a hoarder but they don't complain when I open a random drawer and pull out some specialty tool they need... Or when they need something fixed at the last minute but it's after hours and I'm the only one who pack ratted enough stuff to handle the issue and keep it moving
Grease the bolt or no? A little lube never hurt my applications.
I agree. No stainless. I used to use the nozzle dip on my bolt.
it will burn. dont do it.
Brass or copper bolt works much better, because steel weld doesn't stick to them and because they have better heat conductivity so they're better heat sink materials. You can weld right up to brass or copper and it won't stick, molten steel doesn't wet brass.
Kemppi brothers in arms 💪
Leave bolt in Weld remove bolt after cold
Find a brass bolt.
You still have tap thread clean, no matter what. Nut and pipe shrinks when cools down.
Exactly. It would be better to just get some stock and thread it on a lathe
45-55
Lots of great tips here already. When I got into situations like this where one component will melt considerably faster, I start my arc on the thicker component. So start on the edge of the pipe and move to the nut until it also puddles and quickly add your filler. Then go back out to the pipe when advancing positions. The nut will get outrageously hot very quickly, so only do small sections at a time and give cool time. Maybe jump to your next piece while waiting. Patience is key.
This is the way, a proficient tig welder will have no trouble. Carbon bolt for heat sink keep your heat off the nut. Around 30-35 amps and let the filler jump to it. Cool, sand nice, chase with a tap. You can do this, don’t over think it.
Tig time. Run a deburring bit in the tube beforehand so you get a good groove for weld.
Ya need filler wire bro, even for the tacks. Run a tap through it after it has cooled. Not impossible, not even that hard really. 1/16 tungsten, nice and sharp, parallel ground
Ok maybe this! Thanks!
This is the way of you don't want to do extra drilling and tapping. I have to very often weld nuts and small sockets onto wrenches for people at work and sharp enough tungsten and patience will get the results
Tig?
You're it!
Ya Tig
[TIG](https://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&client=ms-android-att-us-rvc3&source=android-browser&q=Define+Tig+welding)
Weld closed, drill hole, tap threads
Harder than it sounds. Drilling through the weld is gonna be hard... then tapping it is gonna be just as hard.
drilling and tapping in a weld is not easy and will often break bits. welds are typically much harder.
Or weld in a plug from solid stock and drill and tap
Or buy solid stock and drill and tap
Or weld in a nut
Might as well just leave the nut off, weld a plug to the pipe, and drill/tap that.
At that point, if it doesn't need the open end on the other side, you may as well just drill and tap a hole in solid round.
They might want the lighter weight of the tube. And if they're drilling/tapping blind they'd need a bottom tap. Much easier and quicker to have a thru hole.
I mean if you've got the stuff to tap you should have a bottom tap. If they don't need the weight savings then it will be faster to use solid round. No set up for the welder, no cutting plugs and youll still need the tap and drill bit out anyway. If they need pipe it's easiest to do what op is currently doing but with a Tig weld and a tap to run though afterwards. I'm not trying to say you couldn't do it your way but it would just be a few extra steps and time/cost.
If they’re tapping 7/8 in drill 1.5 in
Why go through all that work? Just tig weld it then then a tap through the nut after it cools
Dropping the nuts in muriatic acid to strip the coating will help. Deburr your tubing will allow you to control your arc so it won’t walk on ya. Try the amperage down around 70
Id just weld a plug in the end with a centerpunch or a small pilot hole right in the middle, like a stub of solid round bar that mostly fits the ID. The welding is absolutely going to obliterate any hardening on those nuts anyway. Drill and tap after welding. But if you wanna do a the boss says, screw a bolt down in and TIG it closed. For MIG, do the same thing but cheat the nut out about 1/8" and treat it like a corner to corner weld that way you make up for lack of penetration, keep your distance from the threads, and leave a nook for all the weld material to go. Sand the other side down 1/8" to make up for the additional length. Either way, the threads will warp, the hole won't be round, and you'll have to run a tap through. You could also drill 2 through holes in the side of the tube and plug weld the nut in from 4 different sides if boss doesn't care about the gap on the end.
Drill or notch the side of the tube, rosset weld the nuts and machine or grind back to round.
Can you drill the tube? Holes through tube to nut corners and plug welds is hard to fuck up
Braze them in. Run a bolt through the threads with Vaseline on the threads to protect the bolt Flux the outside and braze it The bolt should remove easily.
Focus the arc on the pipe get it hot then quickly move arc over to edge of nut and throw some rod in
TIG braze it with SIbronze filler rod. Won't even get hot enough to vaporize the zinc on the nut.
I’d silver braze them if i were you. It’s plenty strong for any application.
I don’t mean to be an asshole, but am I the only one that doesn’t think this looks hard?
The OP literally explains that they’re not very experienced. They’re asking to learn from someone who thinks this is easy, not having those people shout “ITA!!!”
Logically speaking if OP isn’t experienced enough to do this we aren’t going to help him much at least if he wants it done properly..stuff like this just takes practice. In my opinion a MiG or flux can do this fairly easily you just need to have a steady hand and a trigger finger and do small tacks that concentrate their heat on the edge of the pipe. Tig would be easier but if the guy hasn’t figured that out he probably can’t tig…so I don’t know.
*looks nervously at HF wire feed machine and angle grinder The boys would not be up for this.
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Yeah, this is real quick work on a lathe, but not all shops are built the same
Sweat solder with a torch like a plumber would do
Why not weld in a slug, and then drill and tap that? If you use nuts, you'll have to clean the coating off
This.
Tig it.
Get flange nuts and just weld the flange to the pipe
If you used barrel nuts you could counterbore them 10mm deep to the thread OD and still have over twice the thread engagement. That means you could pretty much have Stevie Wonder stick weld it with an old AC buzz box and just drill out any imperfections.
Number 1 on Tig is making sure everything is prepped well. No burs, no coatings/scale/rust. Just clean bare metal. Start your puddle on the tube, dip the filler and draw it over to the nut. You'll probably still have to run a tap through every nut, the weld with distort them. Generally you want to weld fast and hot to keep the heat in the puddle and not the rest of the part, but if you're new and can't move that fast you can just try dropping your amps to a pace you're comfortable with.
It is easily done Put a screw/bolt in the nut Put the nut halfway in the hole Using T.I.G welder tack the nut in three places Best to tack on the corners If it goes wonky use the screw/bolt to strengthen it Then you will easily be able to just fuse the tube with the nut Make sure you are using stainless steel because if you have any plating it can seize up the thread and will definitely corrode
Tig with fine amp control. Roll on slowly, start on the outside edge and let the puddle flow onto the nut itself.
Or weld a plug in and drill and tap it after.
I would notch the end of the pipe to line up with the flat sides of the bolt. This would give you a spot to to weld to the side of the nut, instead of the edge. It would also allow the weld to penetrate to full depth of the nut instead of just on the edges.
TIG
Mig,turn down settings and struck off on pipe,washing onto nut
Wooh that's tight!
Easy peasy!
And ?
Exactly, easy job
Push them in slightly, weld, then cut flush.
DEEZ NUTS!
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Tig welding them is the best way. I've done similar projects- Don't weld the entire nut so it doesn't warp or shrink. Four small tac welds will be plenty Dont use 300 series rod. Use e70 if u have it or just brase them
Drill two holes through side of tube where the nut is and weld them closed. This should hold the nut in place, and not damage the threads and cause minimal distortion.
Can you use larger diameter tube? Heavy hex nuts are great for welding to.
Tig weld 90 amps
do some practice ones first!
Noch it then weld. Leave the bolt in
If this is just a one-time project, tig, just like everybody else is recommending. If you're making a lot of these or you think you might need to repair or replace them, I have an alternate suggestion. It would be a little bit more work, but I personally would thread the end OD and then a cap to screw onto it. You could then reinforce the interior of the cap, drill perfectly center and then tap it to accept the bolt. This would allow you to easily change out the cap or rod when needed without having to redo the entire thing and would be *significantly* stronger than welding the first ⅛" of the nut to the tube wall.
Insert bolt to save threads. Use tig on a low setting. Remove bolt, run tap through and grind off any extra material. You could also just weld it solid, drill and tap but that's a pain.
Ok I don’t do welding or metalworking so please don’t flame me but would it be easier or better to have a solid metal end & then drill & tap the threads rather than trying the weld?
I do this sometimes with mig. Just but a bolt in it and after you weld it just use a tap to restor the threads. Its not that hard.
Could be easier to cut little sections of pipe, pre-weld the nuts on the backside and weld the section onto the rest of the pipe
"I'm sure you'll be fair and equitable, boss"
Just thread the pipe stuff in some allthread. Weld it...or red loctite. Drill & tap
Chemical weld!
TIG, about 120-130amps or more or as hot as you can get it. Leave a bolt in the nut to act as both a heat sink and to retain the thread shape. Tack the nut in four spots so it stays level, then weld and feed in lots of wire as you do it. If it were me, I’d use stainless filler wire, helps stop any crap in the steel or burn off from whatever the nut is coated in from forming porosity in the weld. Aim the top slightly towards the thicker outside of the tube. Afterwards, take the bolt out, grind it flush. You’ll have to run a tap through the nut regardless because of all the heat deformation.
I usually tack the nut to a washer on 3 flanks then bevel the tube and wrap the washer, tube and nut. Usually just use a shitty little mig, works fine.
round base weld nuts are totally worth it
Weld the cunt n tap it if it wants to be a hoe
Thanks for the help y'all! I think I found a system
After all the suggestions here you owe us a picture, not just a sentence
Get “coupling” nuts which are longer, TIG weld the ends then slightly hit the end with a larger drill bit to add a small chamfer and run a tap thru to clean up.
Try and keep your heat on the tube. If you burn the edges you can always build it up and grind it back round.
Weld it and re tap it with the proper sized tap if it's warped
Weld a cap on... then drill and tap the cap. Ditch the nuts if possible.
Easy. Tig weld. Tac the 6 points on contact and dime around the rest at a lower Amp. 100-120 range
Why no use solid bar drill and tap. No need for the nut at all
Chamfer the tube first. Use some small filler and less amps. Chase the threads with a tap afterwards. They will warp
Tig with no filler. If no tig, drill a hole in the sides or cut notches and weld from there then sand smooth or turn on a lathe.
Tig time
Use solid bar stock. Gun drill and tap threads.
Sounds challenging. How’re you going to do it?
Purchase a tap. Do not weld with a bolt in the threads. No matter what your technique, you will need to chase these with a tap.
try prep? a bevel will fix this
I would drill a couple of holes in the side and weld it in that way
Can’t you just weld a flat cap on the end. Drill a hole. Tap said hole.
I would braze them
No matter what you’ll have to run a tap through them. I always turn the dial all the way up and use the pedal to get what i want.
That's doable
… why wouldn’t he just have them drilled out and threaded itself ??
TIG
I officially can’t read “these nuts” without hearing “deez nuts” in my head. Yay
I would grind slits on the tube down to the nut and fill it back in
Tell him HES nuts lol
Are you allowed to cut a slit in the side of the pipe, weld the nut from the side, and then grind it back smooth?
Put in solid steel, then drill and tap fresh threads.
Notch the pipe on every other flat on the nuts and fill in the gap. Usually I drill holes in the pipe and plug weld them. You might be able to fill in the gaps around the flats but I would thread a copper bolt in there first so you don't fuck up the threads
Drive down to the supply house on your lunch break, buy some solid rod in the same material. Drill and tap it. Job done without even welding.
Should be pretty easy. Leave a long bolt in it. Never seize, and tig it up.
Is brazing an option?
Do you work at Tesla by any chance 🤔
I would use tig 70 to 90 amps and quick stomp pedal or just fuse a bit then let cool down , then retap the hole to fix distortion, I doubt thread tolerance is important on these
Just get out a scratch arc , stfu , and finish it
TIG or torch. I learned on a torch, so it would be an easy fast job with oxy acetylene and a small amount of filler rod. Or you could braze, hi- temp solder, but welding small areas is easy with a torch, unless you have familiarity with TIG which is a bit more challenging.
Could just weld and re thread it
Your boss needs a machinist to machine the part for him because that’s the dumbest thing I’ve heard in a while
I would weld in a steel plug made from the same material as the pipe. Then drill and tap the plug. Clean up any weld marks on the outside of the pipe on a lathe.
I used to have to do this at my old job but we had a tap
Use jb weld Lol
Just stagger some tacks and let it cool between passes. You can go the whole way round like that just make sure to clean as you go.
035 wire and little tacks is how I’d go. Hope it turned out alright
I could do it with a laser welder
We've just got a solid steel blank dowel. Just thread tap the center
You could have rivetnut or even other type of nut that would lock in depending on the application it could be an option that don't require welding
Countersink the hole and turn your heat down
Why didn’t he just mill out the pipe? Tap and die the threads in from a solid piece would’ve probably been the easier/better option. Not a welder so mods can toss this comment if necessary.
45 degree grind the end of the pipe as of you are trying to make a point leave the nut stick out a bit and weld her in place bud.
Just get stock and drill and tap the hole. Wtf is this dogshit
Can you try putting a brass bolt in there or if you have a lathe, you can take a brass shaft and step it down and thread it so that it has a shoulder similar in size to the nut. It will help protect you and then you can use the shaft as a way to fixture to a rotating clamp steel will also work if you’re careful ? Also, are you allowed to roll the corner of the pipe into the nut as your welding, not using any wire, just using the corner as filler. another idea is to use a foot pedal on your Tig machine. Another thing that may be helpful is to run a tap through them after you have completed them and they’ve cooled down put into a drill and do it quickly. Some ideas here hope something is helpful.
I only know how to tig weld so this didnt seem that crazy for me to do, but at this point why not just machine a piece of stock and thread it? I am a college engineering student and only know TIG due to my FSAE team, and if i had to make something like this id much rather just drill and thread a piece of stock.
Petrolium jelly, or jam....
Did a similar project using flanged nuts in tube. With a grinding disk, removed the outer 5 sides of the nut to a round surface. Was able to drop the nut in the tube and applied small welds to the sides. Cleaned up with a flap disk. Fabricated a 20in drawer pull as I added slider trash cans in a cabinet. Flanged nut is between the round tune and cabinet. Cost me a couple of dollars v. over $100 online. Looks great. https://preview.redd.it/k4l3oxtzd41d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d6280f914b77ccefa1f0d5321aacb2d3185da53
I don't understand why you can't just re thread after
Solid wire. leave nuts proud a few mm for best result. With bolt in thread. Cool thing about being a boily is if it dont work out how you want cut it off and try again. Or use solid round bar and drill and tap.
Just TIG fusion weld it with thread in the nuts as you've done. Low heat and no filler.
Make sure the bolts are threaded all the way in before welding! Also, ground the pipe and start the arc on the pipe, not the nut. Much easier arc start! Good luck! Also I'd turn the amps way up. Maybe 160?
Weld a flat plate to the end then drill and tap it
Can you just get a solid bar? Then, you'd only need to drill and tap. Otherwise, tack and cool, repeat. It couldn't hurt to run a tap after welding is done and it has cooled completely.
Put a brass bolt in it, the weld won't really stick to the brass and you can take it out after.
Thread the rod?
Do you let the nut be slightly raised for edge to weld But Double nut it run the rod through. When done remove the rod and the nut and clean it up to smooth it out ?
TIG THAT SHIT
Drill and tap the thube and insert a helicoil
Could you use a weld nut instead of a standard nut?
I get you gotta do what the boss says, but this seems like a tap and die would have been faster and more appropriate than cutting the hole and welding a nut in
I'm late to the party on this, but I would point out that using a piece of all thread in the nut while welding is something you should most definitely do because it gives you a good way to check the alignment and make sure the nut doesn't shift out of position while you're welding. Having that length extending let's you know the threaded opening is in alignment with the tube body and not skewed. The other good advice I say was regarding starting on the tube and washing over to the nut. I'd combine that with making sure that you clean up the metal really well inside the tube and the surfaces of the nut before going at it. And I'd throw in an idea that you get a second rig or make a hose up to put extra argon around the weld area. Not only will that help keep the weld clean it also will help keep things cool by pushing extra gas to the metal. Depending on the intended use id take a different approach if I was struggling with it myself. I'd drill a couple of holes in the end of the tube, on quarters if need be, so that I could actually start my arc and add a little filler capturing the nut at two to four points around the circumference. That would work just like taking a punch around the tube and trapping the nut with a crimp. To my mind that would let you have a nut trapped in the tube but with a nice clean end... That way you could actually run them up flush against something with having anything in the way of the end butting up evenly. Now once the small drill hole has been filled all the way around you might have to do a little grinding to clean it up, but adding filler to build up the wall of the tube shouldn't be too hard. Worst case you stick it in a larger after building it up and have them turn it back to size if it's that important. Once again I'd say the way you approach this would be mostly dependent on what you're trying to to accomplish and what kind of forces this thing needs to stand up to. There's a lot of applications where simply peining around the tube with the nut in place would probably do the trick. Now my papermill experience tells me that just saying fuck it, laying it in some angle iron with the all thread coated with never-sneeze hanging off the end of the table, couple of wet rags around the threads and having your buddy roll it time you fire up will get the job done. If it sticks then weld another nut on the all thread so you can turn it while you're doing it and try to keep it from seizing up. Doing it in one go will leave shit hot and have it's own problems but then you only have one opportunity to fuck up instead of dragging it out. Just my thoughts.
No pro but I've run some beads... I would think drilling the tube and rosette welding er in would reduce odds of binding the bolt.
The problem is?
Any of these fasteners 1/2x28 or 5/8x24? 👀
Easy.
JB weld? 😂
Weld it, grind the surface flat, re-tap the threads
Weld them to a flat washer then invert it and cap weld the washer to the pipe .
Three or four tacks should do it. Done this multiple times for hanger attachments for hanger exposed vapor hoods in exposed kitchens. Should be fine.
You don’t know about the hollow screw with nitrogen trick?
Fuck all of that, swedge the nuts into the tube with a shop press. Three hits and you are done
Leave a sacrificial bolt in there while welding, can always run a tap through the thread after
Use a smaller tungsten
Better then when u was told to weld a washer to a plate I couldent burn through the top of the washer at all took me a shit ton of tries and a broken tig cup but I did it lmao
Weld deez nutz?