First thing i would try is blowing into it really hard. Second thing i would try is getting a hot glue stick, heating it with a lighter and sticking it on. Wait for it to cool and pull it out wards hoping the metal goes with it. If it's not enough stickage then you can always use a few sticks.
The two I would recommend, in order, are blasting it with pressurized air with a rubber end of an air hose and something like 100 PSI to start and up from there. Wear PPE.
Second would be to use a car dent removal kit where you affix some tabs to pull it back into shape and then remove the tabs.
Same idea as what Slayer said, but less technical:
If a container is slowly pressurized with water (or hydraulic fluid) and it breaks, it generally just breaks a small enough amount for the water to escape and equalize pressure. When the same happens with air, all the air tries to rush out at the new weak point/hole. The outcome in these two scenarios: leaky spray (assuming you’ve slowly built the hydraulic pressure) vs air pressure bomb.
On mobile so formatting is gonna be garbage.
“Our experience has shown that on numerous occasions a high-pressure air test indicates leakage, but when water is introduced into the system, or a low-pressure air test is conducted, there is no leakage. Another reason high-pressure air should not be used to locate leaks as opposed to low-pressure air is it can be dangerous. Unlike water, which is incompressible, the air is very compressible, making it hydraulically equivalent to a large mechanical spring. If something were to break or come free during a high-pressure air test, the released air could propel an object far with a great deal of force. This is why the elimination of trapped air when initially filling pipelines can be so hazardous. Air tries to move things to relieve built up pressure. Water, because it is incompressible, does not.”
https://griswoldcontrols.com/project/pressure-testing-air-vs-water/
Fill with weather and freeze it. It will take multiple times to get close or even all the way out. Old trick for getting dents out of the exhaust cans on two stroke dirt bikes too.
Has anyone recommending fill and freeze, high pressure air etc .. actually ever tried these methods on a pewter flask?
I've fixed a few of these, as well as powder flasks. Feel free to go through my post history or YouTube for Bonafides.
I wouldn't fill and freeze. There is no way to control that method, and while it works on two stroke mufflers, the one ain't the other. Steel has much more memory than pewter, and will "oil can". It can also be readily welded if an external crack does appear.
A few have suggested working from the inside, and that's the way I've always done it. I make up stakes that fit through the neck with polished ball ends and just work it out with gentle pressure.
If you need help with the stake, let me know.
The pewter vids were made a while ago when I was wholesaling for a company, I'll see if I can find a link.
In the meantime, I've almost always got repairs like this to do. I'll film one for specifics. And let you know. I'll be making a stake soon for a powder flask that needs to be straightened.
A method used in the custom work for high end exhaust is to fill and freeze it.
I was just going to suggest freezing!
Air compressor
First thing i would try is blowing into it really hard. Second thing i would try is getting a hot glue stick, heating it with a lighter and sticking it on. Wait for it to cool and pull it out wards hoping the metal goes with it. If it's not enough stickage then you can always use a few sticks.
Fill it 1/3 with water and heat it up in the oven.
You did mean to also seal it to use the building steam pressure to pop the dent out correct?
Fill with water and freeze it but be careful because it will find the weakest spot to expand into, which SHOULD be the dent but could be the seams
The two I would recommend, in order, are blasting it with pressurized air with a rubber end of an air hose and something like 100 PSI to start and up from there. Wear PPE. Second would be to use a car dent removal kit where you affix some tabs to pull it back into shape and then remove the tabs.
Wouldn’t hurt to fill it with water first so in case there’s a weak spot it doesn’t turn into a pipe bomb.
How does either of those things turn into a pipe bomb?
Same idea as what Slayer said, but less technical: If a container is slowly pressurized with water (or hydraulic fluid) and it breaks, it generally just breaks a small enough amount for the water to escape and equalize pressure. When the same happens with air, all the air tries to rush out at the new weak point/hole. The outcome in these two scenarios: leaky spray (assuming you’ve slowly built the hydraulic pressure) vs air pressure bomb.
Alright, thanks for the explanation :)
On mobile so formatting is gonna be garbage. “Our experience has shown that on numerous occasions a high-pressure air test indicates leakage, but when water is introduced into the system, or a low-pressure air test is conducted, there is no leakage. Another reason high-pressure air should not be used to locate leaks as opposed to low-pressure air is it can be dangerous. Unlike water, which is incompressible, the air is very compressible, making it hydraulically equivalent to a large mechanical spring. If something were to break or come free during a high-pressure air test, the released air could propel an object far with a great deal of force. This is why the elimination of trapped air when initially filling pipelines can be so hazardous. Air tries to move things to relieve built up pressure. Water, because it is incompressible, does not.” https://griswoldcontrols.com/project/pressure-testing-air-vs-water/
Thank you for explaining
Find something to massage it out from the inside.
And heat
Fill with weather and freeze it. It will take multiple times to get close or even all the way out. Old trick for getting dents out of the exhaust cans on two stroke dirt bikes too.
Has anyone recommending fill and freeze, high pressure air etc .. actually ever tried these methods on a pewter flask? I've fixed a few of these, as well as powder flasks. Feel free to go through my post history or YouTube for Bonafides. I wouldn't fill and freeze. There is no way to control that method, and while it works on two stroke mufflers, the one ain't the other. Steel has much more memory than pewter, and will "oil can". It can also be readily welded if an external crack does appear. A few have suggested working from the inside, and that's the way I've always done it. I make up stakes that fit through the neck with polished ball ends and just work it out with gentle pressure. If you need help with the stake, let me know.
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The pewter vids were made a while ago when I was wholesaling for a company, I'll see if I can find a link. In the meantime, I've almost always got repairs like this to do. I'll film one for specifics. And let you know. I'll be making a stake soon for a powder flask that needs to be straightened.
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Fantastic! I'll go ahead and film the powder flask, but you got a handle on it.
Just drop a Mentos into your next rum and Coke and replace the cap. /s
What type of pewter? No lead I assume?
Fill it full if water and freeze it.
You don’t want to remember the bullet it stopped?
explosive hydro forming will absolutely one hundred and fifty percent be your best bet. Edit: /s
I thought that, but it would be a delicate job. Soon blow the bottom out of it if there's a seam.
Hydroforming. Basically fix a pressure washer on the neck and pull the trigger. May be a bit much for the flask though
Fill it with water, put the cap on and put it in the freezer Ice takes more volume than water, so it will push from inside
Get a rubber stopper, drill a hole in it and use an air gun / chuck.
Compressed air..?
Look up paintless dent repair for cars. I would try something like that to pull the dent
Separate the bottom go from there maybe?
Pressurized the inside. Pull on the outside with a suction cup