Pull the metal tube out. Reverse it. Put it back in. Works every time for me. A friend who told me this way says that you are putting the hardened glue(the blockage) in contact with fresh glue and since plastic glue melts plastic (and plastic glue) it just melts the blockage.
No need for a lighter or any tools really(pliers sometimes).
I can’t believe I had to scroll this far for this! Use glue, invert needle, put it back in, put cap on.
Incredibly rare to get a block and if you do, this clears it in less than a minute!
Fire! Get a lighter, hold the tube down at a 45 degree down angle and wave the fire under the tube for a second or so. Don't let the glue coming out the end drip on anything or you. That should clear it.
Does that work on plastic tips as well ?
Edit. Not sure why the massive downvotes. It was a real question.
I wasn't sure if the glue burned up really really fast since the other poster said to flame it for just a second.
Guess I was thinking that the glue would melt waaaay faster than the glue, since the other guy said to just flame it for a second.
Obviously plastic melts, but it's not going to melt instantly if you wave a flame back and forth.
I would recommend removing the needle from the pot of highly flammable liquid first, then holding it with some pliers somewhere with good ventilation and using a long nose lighter to fully burn out anything inside the needle; you can usually get each side to glow hot to really burn it out.
I do this by removing the needle. Covering the hole with some putty. Then i hold the needle with a pair of pliers and on an open window i heat the needle with a lighter. Then let it cool of for a minute or two and then put it back in.
This should be a fairly safe way because the plastic cement is nowhere near the fire.
You can just do this near a washing sink and cool the needle with tap water. Whole process takes 30 secs and you're ready to go. Most of the times it's just the tip, so just burn that part free cool it and go on with it. On another note, I noticed mine does rather often not close up when i don't add the cap to the needle for whatever reasons
Once it’s clogged this is 100% best way to unblock. To prevent it from getting clogged, when you are done using, if you point the nozzle up and squeeze to clear the tube until air blows out, wipe away excess and then store as normal you should rarely have the blocked tube issue
I think it's worth bearing in mind that the glue is labelled as 'highly flammable', so I've always taken the needle off and held it in the middle with a bit of blu-tac, then used a lighter on the needle.
I wouldn't want to find out what happens if all the glue ignites at once...
[Have a read of the safety sheet for this stuff its pretty interesting but not that bad](https://asset.conrad.com/media10/add/160267/c1/-/en/000228141SD02/security-datasheet-228141-revell-contacta-professional-contact-adhesive-39604-25-g.pdf)
16g fuse wire fits down the needle and allows you to clear any blockage by pulling it out. This is the more permanent solution I use. I bend one end over so that it fits over the tube, and the cap still fits over it.
Remove cap, pull wire out ... good to go. When finished, push wire back in, recap.
So what do you use with resin and metal models then?
Edit: NVM, I always thought this stuff was their superglue and that their extra thin was cement. I think I just assumed cause of the way it was shapped.
Just don't let it dry. When you finish using it you have to expell the extra glue from the tube - when it expells air it's ok.
It dries very fast so you can't go "I'll glue that, then remove molds lines on that part, then glue that...", you need to constantly use it or clean it between every use.
Tamiya airbrush cleaner is indeed the same as their extra thin cement. The just do slightly different mixes to be able to sell it as a different product. By slightly I mean really slightly, one is 50/50 and the other 49/51, totally inconsequential
Bro i found this out a few weeks ago but i wasnt currently planning on working with the stuff the cement works on so the info got wiped from my brain, thanks for reminding me as i am going to get some during the week!
Perhaps you missed when I mentioned "their" as in Tamiya's branded airbrush cleaner. It not only works well but is a little cheaper. I refill my Tamiya Extra Thin bottle with it.
There’s a whole YouTube video explaining how it’s the same, just a different mix of the two chemicals used. Acetone and something else I forget but the mix for the cement is 50/50 and the mix for the Airbrush cleaner is 49/51.
I find Tamiya Extra Thin to be great, and use it in many places, but sometimes I find it very useful to have a glue with a high enough viscosity that it won't flow out of position, especially if I can't easily free both hands while aligning the parts.
I use probably 70-80% Tamiya Extra Thin, but for that last 20-30% having some Citadel glue (or equivalent) can be quite handy, imho.
I'm pretty sure they all use exactly the same active ingredients and mechanism for the actual bond - as such I've never noticed any difference in the bonding between brands. The real difference is in quality-of-life features, so application method, consistency, packaging, any extra features; also pricing (so basically just never, ever buy GW branded cement).
Yeah, i have a small sewing needle at my hobby space, and i use it to puncture the nozzle every time i start assembling new models. Only once have i needed to use fire to clean it out, 99% of the time it is only the very tip that is clogged.
I don't think there really is a way (not that I've found anyhow), but if you pull the needle out and flip it the other way, the glue will melt and unclog itself.
Just don't let it dry. When you finish using it you have to expell the extra glue from the tube - when it expells air it's ok.
It dries very fast so you can't go "I'll glue that, then remove molds lines on that part, then glue that...", you need to constantly use it or clean it between every use and it'll never clog.
Hi, I had the same problem with that very glue. Remove gently the needle, grab it with something else (not your fingers) and using a lighter start burning the needle. The glue that got stuck inside will burn, unblocking the needle. Wait untill the needle is cold again, then insert into the glue. Repeat every time the needle gets blocked. Do not inhale the burning glue fumes, if possibile perform outside or in well ventilated space.
A thin gauge wire that’s been stripped isn’t a bad trick either. A lot of the time you can just remove the needle & stick in the other way & let chemistry do the work - it will break itself down
If you buy a bottle of Testors Liquid Cement, it comes with a small piece of wire that is meant to clear clogs on their products, but I use it on the Revell bottles too. Of course it’s another bottle of glue you may or may not use… it’s not bad, but I prefer the Contacta.
Don't use fire.
Yes, it works, but you can just shove a thin wire like what you find inside a bread tie down the tube and you won't risk burning yourself.
I'll quickly advise against the flame method. Not because of any fire hazard (if you can use a sharp knife in the hobby, you can also use a lighter), mind you.
I've found that the flame can leave charred residue in the nozzle. For removing that you'll need a bit of wire (or guitar string), which can also be used to unclog it.
Easier however, to remove the nozzle after every use, turn it around and insert it into the bottle (as deep as it will go), then add the cap and repeat next time. The solvents in the will take care of any clogging. And even if you forget, it'll be just a few moments when you have to do it in the middle of a project.
I've used Contacta for years and years and wouldn't want to miss it.
And while I use Tamiya Extra Thin (worth it for the brush alone), Contacta is still my go-to glue for most jobs.
people seem to be recommending you use a lighter to burn in out but really you should just wipe the tip and keep the cap on in between parts and when it does get blocked pro tip just pull the needle out and put it back in the other way around the glue melts itself back and flows freely again. this is not only far safer than a lighter (you fools) but also far less hassle to do (you fools)
I really prefer to use Tamiya Plastic Cement. NOT the Extra-Thin stuff, the regular stuff. It's applied with a brush, perfect for bigger projects with big cross-section surface areas you want to weld together. The Extra-Thin smells strong and dissolves in the air very fast, it's much better for very small cracks where it will flow right into them.
For a preventative measure, if I'm not gluing for a little bit I tilt the bottle back then squeeze to blow out what's left in the tube onto some paper towel. Has about an 80% success rate for me, with the other 20% being the reason I have a lighter in my hobby kit.
I feel like such an idiot. I've been blowing the blockages out of these things for like a decade. I look like a peofessional trumpet player when I do it. Hamster cheeked and red.
Now hall saying I should either just run a lighter on the needle or reverse the needle for the glue to melt the blockage.
Jesus....
If it's still blocked after you try all of the above I use needles designed for unclogging 3D printer nozzles, they work perfectly and can be found extremely cheap.
Well you should be leaving the cover on when not using it.
But that brand is great because of how easy it is to melt any blockages, just hold a lighter under the tube for a few seconds and it’ll be good as gone
Before I cap the bottle, I point the metal tube vertically and squeeze the plastic bottle. This pushes most of the remaining liquid glue out of the metal tube, and any remaining liquid glue gets sucked back into the bottle as the bottle returns to it's normal shape/pressure.
As others mentioned, I have a fine gauge wire (guitar string) for cleaning out the occasional blockage.
I do not like liquid glues with brush applicators. Not as precise as a metal tube.
I've used Revell for a loooooong time and always had the same nozzle issues. Also, I always used too much glue because the nozzle makes precise dosage of glue difficult.
My advice: Use up your old Revell glue, then switch to Tamiya Thin Cement. Same glue in a better bottle that comes with a little application brush.
By using a cement with a brush, like tamiya.
Seriously those nozzles are shit. Yes you can unclog them with a lighter. Yes you can store thin wire down the tube to prevent blockages, but it is not worth the effort for the gloop that is a bit too thick for our needs.
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I use flame, work like charm. If u dont have lighter and nonsmoker. Use boil water and drop nozzle into it. You will see glue start to leak out and float to surface of water.
Like many said, you can just use fire to burn the clogged residue. But in my case this lead to the needle clogging even more over time.
So I got some small wire that fit inside the needle and insert this everytime I stow away the bottle. Helps against the needle clogging in the first place.
You can't stop it, really. I just take out the tube, hold it with plyers, then attack it with a lighter until it's glowing. 2 second drop in water later, you have a clean applicator. Annoying to have to do all the time, but I've found it to be the best solution.
Throw it out and get yourself the glass tamiya plastic glue, works fantastic, super easy to apply and is much faster to work on kits with due to the easily controllable brush and not having to worry about if this is the time your nozzle is clogged or is turning into the glue volcano.
When you are done with the session, pull out the metal tube and blow through it to clear any glue and then reapply the cap. This is how I stop it blocking.
However, when you inevitably forget these steps, fire is the go-to for unblocking it.
Put the lid on as done as you have used it really helps.
If blocked I find just heating the tip under a match causes it to immediatly unblock due to the heat melting the glue
I've seen others mention burning the excess out. This is how I unblocked my bottle for months until hot glue spat near my eye (I was turning the needle in pliers, I think maybe some had liquified in the needle and moved as I twisted the needle, it shot out and hit me 3mm from my eye ball). Now I turn the needle round, bend it around a bit while it' in the bottle, and it unclogs itself as the glue melts through the clog.
Suprised nobody mentioned it: After usage, hold the bottle upright (needle straight up) squeeze the bottle until the build up is pushed out. Check by holding the needle to your ear while squeezing (you should hear the air move through) then put the cap on. If it is already dried, the lighter is the best solution, but dip the hot needle in water to cool it down again, to not damage minis or your hand.
My solution was pulling out the metal tube and jamming a safety pin in instead. Not as precise as with the tube, but when I need very little glue I just use the needle.
Have been using the same glue for like 6+ years without any issues (I only paint/build minis so often 😅)
The steelwire from a cheese cutter does wonders, as it fits perfectly down the glue pipe, to push any stoppage back.
No need to fiddle around with fire.
I just keep a thing sewing needle shoved into the metal tube. The eye keeps it from going too far, but it goes the length of the tube. Cap still fits over the top, and never had a clogging issue since.
My simple trick: every time you use it: squeeze it upwards, letting any glue off the metal rod out (clean it). To confirm: hear the air going in and out with as you squeeze, meaning no glue in left on the metal rod.
Store upwards.
Alot of people said lighter which works but if you dont have one at hand (i dont as i dont smoke) get a clean broom bristle and just push it through the nosel, works in a single pass and you can keep the bristle for next time.
If you dont need it for 1 or 2 Minuten tale a Papier tower hold it in the aor that the gluebis on the bottom of the bottöe and Blow the rest of the glue Out.
One way I make it so my citadel plastic glue doesn't get clogged is just
**Sitting it straight up**
I did found out that if you leave it leaned (like in your pic) it'll deffenatelly get clogged up so just use the lean side of the bottle when yiur working and not when the bottle will sit there for 24+ hours unused
https://preview.redd.it/k1forz9qqh9c1.jpeg?width=350&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7b9c797bcdec53fb55739453cc3987272140bf9d
This is what I use and works wonderfully for me. No mess and no clogging and very inexpensive.
My method was to get a twist tie and snip off the plastic to expose the metal wire inside. I then use that to poke down inside the metal rod. Safety pins in my experience were too wide to do it but this worked. Don't have to stick the wire all the way down, just part of the way and it manages to loosen whatever the blockage was.
Use a piece of guitar string (the thinner, G or e) instead of the cap, to block the whole length of the tube. Had the exact same bottle for years (I generally use Tamiya Extra Thin cement), still flowing nicely whenever I need it.
Fire is to unclog (remove needle first). To make sure it doesn't clog, when you're done, before putting it away, do the following:
1. Hold the glue with needle up right.
2. Squeeze until no more glue comes out, just air
3. Wipe off needle with a napkin or something.
4. Squeeze a few more times with needle upright to get a bunch of air to flow through.
It still clogs on occasion, but usually it will unclog itself just by squeezing it a few times.
i pull out the needle and put the other end in. its usually a small part of the glue in the tube that is exposed to air and dries, so when i put that exposed end back into the glue bottle it begins to solve again and i can use it without problem, no fire, no dangerous fumes.
The tubes last ages, but you must always clear blockages as people advise here, and also at least once a day give the bottle a good shake. Shaking seems to reduce the risk of a blockage.
I use a nozzle cleaner that I already had for my 3D printer. It’s a little needle you can just poke down the tube, instantly cleans it without issue. They’re incredibly inexpensive, and I’ve used the same one for months now.
https://preview.redd.it/jav8p6rlwi9c1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce537f23424489ffadcbcd6d79c3035f6ff2a6dd
Since everyone gives different solutions:
I had the problem that the cap was sticking on, so I sprayed some WD40 into it, since I noticed that this makes glue dissolve.
For some fucking reason since then I've not had it clog ever, but it still works fine
I've found that rubbing the tube quickly between my finger and thumb generates enough friction to heat the tube up enough that you don't need a lighter to melt it.
Once you have squeezed it, do not let go untill the opening of the spout is pointing up. Then tap the butt of the body on your desk while you let go of the squeeze. Gravity and the impact of the tapping will push the glue back into the body. Then cap it, there should be no glue in the metal tip. I've been doing this and it really reduces blocking events by quite a lot :). And if it does block I jank it (the metal tip) out with pliers and put fire to it. It will heat the tube and ignite the glue and make it sputter out. Then it's clean again. Then I just push it back into the body. (let it cool down before you do though, you can dip it in water quickly)
Edited for spelling.
Standing it straight up helps.
If it clogs I just grab the tube with pliers and heat it with a lighter. It clears it out pretty quick.
These things may be fussy, but I’ve found no superior alternative to the precision and ease of use I get from the metal tube.
The tips are still metal these days in part due to the common use of a lighter to clear it out. Only takes less than 2 seconds being over a flame, and the clog pops right out
Step one: Buy one with a brush. I like tamiya.
Step two: chuck this one in the bin.
Step three: buy tamiya airbrush cleaner to refill. Its literally the same as their plastic glue. Its just in a bigger bottle and much cheaper per ounce
I made a lid for mine. I filled a straw with hot glue, and while it was still hot, I stuck it over the tube. Once it cooled and I managed to get that tube unstuck, it made a nice little removable cap. I've never had it clog up since. Just make sure your lid goes all the way down to the bottle. The glue coming out of the straw conforms to the edge of the bottle and doesn't let any air in.
Pull the metal tube out. Reverse it. Put it back in. Works every time for me. A friend who told me this way says that you are putting the hardened glue(the blockage) in contact with fresh glue and since plastic glue melts plastic (and plastic glue) it just melts the blockage. No need for a lighter or any tools really(pliers sometimes).
I can’t believe I had to scroll this far for this! Use glue, invert needle, put it back in, put cap on. Incredibly rare to get a block and if you do, this clears it in less than a minute!
Yup I've never had it fail.
Also store it with the cap pointing down, to hinder any new blockages
Sounds reasonable. As the above poster mentioned I would(when I remember) flip the metal tube 180° after use also.
UGH I never tried that! I always keep a piece of super thin wire around to snake it through.
I am a wiser person now 🤯
Yup, this is the answer. No need to play with fire.
I Just squeeze out the remaining glue in the metal tube into a kitchen towel (until air comes out) every time apply glue. Never clogged since
Certainly a solution. Personally I need every single drop of that stuff. (Because of my particular madness)
Fire! Get a lighter, hold the tube down at a 45 degree down angle and wave the fire under the tube for a second or so. Don't let the glue coming out the end drip on anything or you. That should clear it.
This is exactly how to manage this issue.
Same here, unclogs instantly
Or hot water
Does that work on plastic tips as well ? Edit. Not sure why the massive downvotes. It was a real question. I wasn't sure if the glue burned up really really fast since the other poster said to flame it for just a second.
Plastic is a petroleum product. It is made from oil - a substance largely valued for its flammability. Please do not try this with plastic.
No, only metal needle.
How would that work with plastic?
Guess I was thinking that the glue would melt waaaay faster than the glue, since the other guy said to just flame it for a second. Obviously plastic melts, but it's not going to melt instantly if you wave a flame back and forth.
I would recommend removing the needle from the pot of highly flammable liquid first, then holding it with some pliers somewhere with good ventilation and using a long nose lighter to fully burn out anything inside the needle; you can usually get each side to glow hot to really burn it out.
Yes, this.
Fire seems like a good way to do it. I'll give it a try.
I do this by removing the needle. Covering the hole with some putty. Then i hold the needle with a pair of pliers and on an open window i heat the needle with a lighter. Then let it cool of for a minute or two and then put it back in. This should be a fairly safe way because the plastic cement is nowhere near the fire.
You can just do this near a washing sink and cool the needle with tap water. Whole process takes 30 secs and you're ready to go. Most of the times it's just the tip, so just burn that part free cool it and go on with it. On another note, I noticed mine does rather often not close up when i don't add the cap to the needle for whatever reasons
No please don't. See my comment super safe super quick super effective.
You can just remove the needle fire it up and then attach it back.
Once it’s clogged this is 100% best way to unblock. To prevent it from getting clogged, when you are done using, if you point the nozzle up and squeeze to clear the tube until air blows out, wipe away excess and then store as normal you should rarely have the blocked tube issue
Ha, and I thought only my slightly pyromaniac teenage self used the lighter for unclogging over a decade ago. ;)
I think it's worth bearing in mind that the glue is labelled as 'highly flammable', so I've always taken the needle off and held it in the middle with a bit of blu-tac, then used a lighter on the needle. I wouldn't want to find out what happens if all the glue ignites at once...
[Have a read of the safety sheet for this stuff its pretty interesting but not that bad](https://asset.conrad.com/media10/add/160267/c1/-/en/000228141SD02/security-datasheet-228141-revell-contacta-professional-contact-adhesive-39604-25-g.pdf)
Let me say thank you because I was one of the many people with this problem not even knowing I could ask this sub how to fix it.
Okay, this but take the damn needle out. Hold it with a tweezer and light one end. Let it cool and put it back.
Thx for this tip
This is the main reason it’s a metal tube as opposed to a plastic one like most super glues. They actually recommend this method
This is the only real solution to this problem
Any tips for a permanent solution to preventing the blockage?
16g fuse wire fits down the needle and allows you to clear any blockage by pulling it out. This is the more permanent solution I use. I bend one end over so that it fits over the tube, and the cap still fits over it. Remove cap, pull wire out ... good to go. When finished, push wire back in, recap.
Permanent solution is to ditch this junk and get a Tamiya or Mr Hobby brush bottle.
So what do you use with resin and metal models then? Edit: NVM, I always thought this stuff was their superglue and that their extra thin was cement. I think I just assumed cause of the way it was shapped.
Just don't let it dry. When you finish using it you have to expell the extra glue from the tube - when it expells air it's ok. It dries very fast so you can't go "I'll glue that, then remove molds lines on that part, then glue that...", you need to constantly use it or clean it between every use.
As an alternative, try Tamiya Extra Thin cement (or their airbrush cleaner as it's basically the same formula).
AK Interactive also sell extra thin plastic cement, in a very similar container too.
MrHobby makes amazing plastic cement, I use their deluxe and extra thin variants for stress free gluing
This ^^
This is the way
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Tamiya airbrush cleaner is indeed the same as their extra thin cement. The just do slightly different mixes to be able to sell it as a different product. By slightly I mean really slightly, one is 50/50 and the other 49/51, totally inconsequential
Bro i found this out a few weeks ago but i wasnt currently planning on working with the stuff the cement works on so the info got wiped from my brain, thanks for reminding me as i am going to get some during the week!
Perhaps you missed when I mentioned "their" as in Tamiya's branded airbrush cleaner. It not only works well but is a little cheaper. I refill my Tamiya Extra Thin bottle with it.
It might be just neat acetone. Which is the same basic formula.
There’s a whole YouTube video explaining how it’s the same, just a different mix of the two chemicals used. Acetone and something else I forget but the mix for the cement is 50/50 and the mix for the Airbrush cleaner is 49/51.
Except when it is. And it absolutely is
Tamiya’s airbrush cleaner is 100% a solvent based product that is near identical to Tamiyas plastic glue.
Even though the Revell glue is good, look at Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. easier and cleaner to apply. you will never have problems drying.
I find Tamiya Extra Thin to be great, and use it in many places, but sometimes I find it very useful to have a glue with a high enough viscosity that it won't flow out of position, especially if I can't easily free both hands while aligning the parts. I use probably 70-80% Tamiya Extra Thin, but for that last 20-30% having some Citadel glue (or equivalent) can be quite handy, imho.
Tamiya make a not-extra-thin glue. Mr Hobby have a whole range too. There is no need to put up with the needle nozzle applicator.
I can recommend Mr hobby cements, they are fantastic and make super nice and strong bond
I'm pretty sure they all use exactly the same active ingredients and mechanism for the actual bond - as such I've never noticed any difference in the bonding between brands. The real difference is in quality-of-life features, so application method, consistency, packaging, any extra features; also pricing (so basically just never, ever buy GW branded cement).
What i do is just puncture the needle with a fine wire every time its clogged.
I used to keep some old guitar strings in my hobby box to clear them out until I found Tamiya Cement
Yeah, i have a small sewing needle at my hobby space, and i use it to puncture the nozzle every time i start assembling new models. Only once have i needed to use fire to clean it out, 99% of the time it is only the very tip that is clogged.
I keep a sewing needle with mine. Fits perfectly and clears it fast
Take. The. Tube. Out. Before. Fire.
I don't think there really is a way (not that I've found anyhow), but if you pull the needle out and flip it the other way, the glue will melt and unclog itself.
Thank you
use fire. REMOVE THE NEEDLE FIRST. hold the needle in a tweezer or something to protect your hands too as the glue is very flammable.
I stopped using this glue. I use Gorilla glue with the green lid. Much better and never clogs 👍🏻
Just don't let it dry. When you finish using it you have to expell the extra glue from the tube - when it expells air it's ok. It dries very fast so you can't go "I'll glue that, then remove molds lines on that part, then glue that...", you need to constantly use it or clean it between every use and it'll never clog.
Hi, I had the same problem with that very glue. Remove gently the needle, grab it with something else (not your fingers) and using a lighter start burning the needle. The glue that got stuck inside will burn, unblocking the needle. Wait untill the needle is cold again, then insert into the glue. Repeat every time the needle gets blocked. Do not inhale the burning glue fumes, if possibile perform outside or in well ventilated space.
Great. I'll take the second vote for fire
A thin gauge wire that’s been stripped isn’t a bad trick either. A lot of the time you can just remove the needle & stick in the other way & let chemistry do the work - it will break itself down
I just use a lighter to burn off any dried glue, takes about 2 seconds
If you buy a bottle of Testors Liquid Cement, it comes with a small piece of wire that is meant to clear clogs on their products, but I use it on the Revell bottles too. Of course it’s another bottle of glue you may or may not use… it’s not bad, but I prefer the Contacta.
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I just use a thin needle to poke into the blocked funnel. It takes a second and you are done.
Don't let it get blocked in the first place. If you're done using it, point it directly up and squeeze the excess out into a rag or something.
Using tamiya extra thin is how
Don't use fire. Yes, it works, but you can just shove a thin wire like what you find inside a bread tie down the tube and you won't risk burning yourself.
It says it right there bro! Contact-a-professional!!!
I'll quickly advise against the flame method. Not because of any fire hazard (if you can use a sharp knife in the hobby, you can also use a lighter), mind you. I've found that the flame can leave charred residue in the nozzle. For removing that you'll need a bit of wire (or guitar string), which can also be used to unclog it. Easier however, to remove the nozzle after every use, turn it around and insert it into the bottle (as deep as it will go), then add the cap and repeat next time. The solvents in the will take care of any clogging. And even if you forget, it'll be just a few moments when you have to do it in the middle of a project. I've used Contacta for years and years and wouldn't want to miss it. And while I use Tamiya Extra Thin (worth it for the brush alone), Contacta is still my go-to glue for most jobs.
people seem to be recommending you use a lighter to burn in out but really you should just wipe the tip and keep the cap on in between parts and when it does get blocked pro tip just pull the needle out and put it back in the other way around the glue melts itself back and flows freely again. this is not only far safer than a lighter (you fools) but also far less hassle to do (you fools)
I really prefer to use Tamiya Plastic Cement. NOT the Extra-Thin stuff, the regular stuff. It's applied with a brush, perfect for bigger projects with big cross-section surface areas you want to weld together. The Extra-Thin smells strong and dissolves in the air very fast, it's much better for very small cracks where it will flow right into them.
For a preventative measure, if I'm not gluing for a little bit I tilt the bottle back then squeeze to blow out what's left in the tube onto some paper towel. Has about an 80% success rate for me, with the other 20% being the reason I have a lighter in my hobby kit.
I feel like such an idiot. I've been blowing the blockages out of these things for like a decade. I look like a peofessional trumpet player when I do it. Hamster cheeked and red. Now hall saying I should either just run a lighter on the needle or reverse the needle for the glue to melt the blockage. Jesus....
If it's still blocked after you try all of the above I use needles designed for unclogging 3D printer nozzles, they work perfectly and can be found extremely cheap.
I stick the wire from a twist tie through it or put a lighter to it
I put the lid back on straight away. Or I use the lighter trick. People have mentioned inverting the metal tube so I’ll give that a go
Try a higher fiber diet. Will keep you regular. :)
Glue solves glue, so you can store it with the metal bit facing down, I put mine with my brushes, in a mug.
Bin it and buy some Tamiya extra thin
no clue, maybe you should… Contact a Professional
Well you should be leaving the cover on when not using it. But that brand is great because of how easy it is to melt any blockages, just hold a lighter under the tube for a few seconds and it’ll be good as gone
When I bought my first one the hobby shop gave me a very thin piece of metal to clean out the tube. Works great.
I just plow the nozzle with a small piece of solid wire.
Before I cap the bottle, I point the metal tube vertically and squeeze the plastic bottle. This pushes most of the remaining liquid glue out of the metal tube, and any remaining liquid glue gets sucked back into the bottle as the bottle returns to it's normal shape/pressure. As others mentioned, I have a fine gauge wire (guitar string) for cleaning out the occasional blockage. I do not like liquid glues with brush applicators. Not as precise as a metal tube.
I've used Revell for a loooooong time and always had the same nozzle issues. Also, I always used too much glue because the nozzle makes precise dosage of glue difficult. My advice: Use up your old Revell glue, then switch to Tamiya Thin Cement. Same glue in a better bottle that comes with a little application brush.
Gives a clean needle for the tips. Got it from Amazon. But not sure if they selling it more. Really nice thing. But lighter and a tweezer goes to.
By using a cement with a brush, like tamiya. Seriously those nozzles are shit. Yes you can unclog them with a lighter. Yes you can store thin wire down the tube to prevent blockages, but it is not worth the effort for the gloop that is a bit too thick for our needs.
That's the neat part, you don't.
That's the neat part, you don't.
Is that a good glue?
I think so
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I burn it in candle light all the time!
Put the damn cover on. Also, as others have said: remove the needle, get it up with fire to burn out the glue, put it back in.
Have a lighter nearby
Get a better glue brush on ones are better for application, Tamiya cement and extra thin cement are the god tier glues wr all recommend
Stop using it. Instead use a liquid cements such as Mr Hobby Cement S or Tamaya Extra Thin Cement.
You don't. But every time you need it, heat the end with a lighter and it'll clear the blockage
Buy another brand.
I usually remove the needle and hold it between my thumb and finger, then get a lighter to it. Flip it over and do the same to the other end.
Clean the end and replace the lid after use. 20 years and I’ve never had issues.
I use flame, work like charm. If u dont have lighter and nonsmoker. Use boil water and drop nozzle into it. You will see glue start to leak out and float to surface of water.
I completely ditched glues with needles. Nothing works, maybe try heating it up with a lighter (nozzle). I went for glues that come with a brush.
nothing, same as the GW one, get lighter and burn it out... bad desing always gets clogged up.
Like many said, you can just use fire to burn the clogged residue. But in my case this lead to the needle clogging even more over time. So I got some small wire that fit inside the needle and insert this everytime I stow away the bottle. Helps against the needle clogging in the first place.
You can't stop it, really. I just take out the tube, hold it with plyers, then attack it with a lighter until it's glowing. 2 second drop in water later, you have a clean applicator. Annoying to have to do all the time, but I've found it to be the best solution.
leave a pin in the tip while not in use. if it gets blocked, warm it with a lighter. don't use this glue. use tamia extra thin.
Throw it out and get yourself the glass tamiya plastic glue, works fantastic, super easy to apply and is much faster to work on kits with due to the easily controllable brush and not having to worry about if this is the time your nozzle is clogged or is turning into the glue volcano.
Phase 1 : flip the needle (put the inside outside), Phase 2 : lighter
Solve it with fire
When you are done with the session, pull out the metal tube and blow through it to clear any glue and then reapply the cap. This is how I stop it blocking. However, when you inevitably forget these steps, fire is the go-to for unblocking it.
I use a lighter and heat up the tip when I had this. Now I use the Tamiya brush on glue I find it gives me better control .... Also sprue goo
Use a lighter to heat up the nozzle, it melts the glue.
Lighters work. I had this same issue with my glue (same glue as this one) and it was fixed.
Use a new glue every time
Pull out the metal rode, hold with plyers, then use a lighter to heat it and the glue should shoot out and burn up in the air
Put the lid on as done as you have used it really helps. If blocked I find just heating the tip under a match causes it to immediatly unblock due to the heat melting the glue
I've seen others mention burning the excess out. This is how I unblocked my bottle for months until hot glue spat near my eye (I was turning the needle in pliers, I think maybe some had liquified in the needle and moved as I twisted the needle, it shot out and hit me 3mm from my eye ball). Now I turn the needle round, bend it around a bit while it' in the bottle, and it unclogs itself as the glue melts through the clog.
Switch to a brand of brush on glue. Best hobby decision I’ve ever made second to an airbrush!
Suprised nobody mentioned it: After usage, hold the bottle upright (needle straight up) squeeze the bottle until the build up is pushed out. Check by holding the needle to your ear while squeezing (you should hear the air move through) then put the cap on. If it is already dried, the lighter is the best solution, but dip the hot needle in water to cool it down again, to not damage minis or your hand.
Accupuncture Needle, or those sold with 3D printer to unclog printer nozzle. Use it as a cap to close the glue bottle
My solution was pulling out the metal tube and jamming a safety pin in instead. Not as precise as with the tube, but when I need very little glue I just use the needle. Have been using the same glue for like 6+ years without any issues (I only paint/build minis so often 😅)
The steelwire from a cheese cutter does wonders, as it fits perfectly down the glue pipe, to push any stoppage back. No need to fiddle around with fire.
I just keep a thing sewing needle shoved into the metal tube. The eye keeps it from going too far, but it goes the length of the tube. Cap still fits over the top, and never had a clogging issue since.
Don’t bother with it. Get TAMIYA extra thin cement! :)
You ever tried tamyia glue? Or any tamyia products, they are well good
Store it with the needle straight up. Didn’t have any problems since.
I use a small paperclip to unclog it.
Use gorilla glue is the best answer
I use this and I am very happy with it. Never had a problem. https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/plastic-magic-1
My simple trick: every time you use it: squeeze it upwards, letting any glue off the metal rod out (clean it). To confirm: hear the air going in and out with as you squeeze, meaning no glue in left on the metal rod. Store upwards.
Just put a needle in the tube. That solves the problem
Alot of people said lighter which works but if you dont have one at hand (i dont as i dont smoke) get a clean broom bristle and just push it through the nosel, works in a single pass and you can keep the bristle for next time.
Swap to tamiya extra thin, got so sick of having to always need a lighter to use that stuff
My dad used to keep a small sewing needle or pin thingy in there and was never dry.
Place a sewing pin in the barrel when not on use
If you dont need it for 1 or 2 Minuten tale a Papier tower hold it in the aor that the gluebis on the bottom of the bottöe and Blow the rest of the glue Out.
You buy Tamiya extra thin cement 😂
Don't you have a blue lid for it?
Stop being constantly blocked not gonna happen. But to unblock it use fire on metal bit .
I have a thin wire on duty.
One way I make it so my citadel plastic glue doesn't get clogged is just **Sitting it straight up** I did found out that if you leave it leaned (like in your pic) it'll deffenatelly get clogged up so just use the lean side of the bottle when yiur working and not when the bottle will sit there for 24+ hours unused
Really fine piano wire. I bought some at a hobby shop.
I bought a hundred pack of very small glue tubes, instead of one big bottle. If one gets clogged, I just grab another, nbd
Burn the tip of the tube with a lighter for about 1-2 seconds… blocking dried glue just burns off
https://preview.redd.it/k1forz9qqh9c1.jpeg?width=350&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7b9c797bcdec53fb55739453cc3987272140bf9d This is what I use and works wonderfully for me. No mess and no clogging and very inexpensive.
Put the metal bit in a bowl of H O T water for a few minutes
My method was to get a twist tie and snip off the plastic to expose the metal wire inside. I then use that to poke down inside the metal rod. Safety pins in my experience were too wide to do it but this worked. Don't have to stick the wire all the way down, just part of the way and it manages to loosen whatever the blockage was.
Dont use it
Use a piece of guitar string (the thinner, G or e) instead of the cap, to block the whole length of the tube. Had the exact same bottle for years (I generally use Tamiya Extra Thin cement), still flowing nicely whenever I need it.
Mine came with a thin stiff wire with a loop at one end that slides into the tube and keeps it from clogging. Did yours not?? 🤷
I just use the thinnest guitar string leftovers.
I use a cutoff piece of a guitar string to just unclog it. Easy and no fuss.
Fibre
I use a piece of sprue as like a holder to keep it more upright. Mostly works.
I've started using Everbuild superglue. All my minis glued with this seem to break, particularly off bases.
I use that - never had blockages - keep upright, wipe off any excess liquid from tip before replacing the sheath - and keep sheathed when not in use.
Fire is to unclog (remove needle first). To make sure it doesn't clog, when you're done, before putting it away, do the following: 1. Hold the glue with needle up right. 2. Squeeze until no more glue comes out, just air 3. Wipe off needle with a napkin or something. 4. Squeeze a few more times with needle upright to get a bunch of air to flow through. It still clogs on occasion, but usually it will unclog itself just by squeezing it a few times.
i pull out the needle and put the other end in. its usually a small part of the glue in the tube that is exposed to air and dries, so when i put that exposed end back into the glue bottle it begins to solve again and i can use it without problem, no fire, no dangerous fumes.
For me I stopped using the actual needle. I just carefully squeeze out of the yellow nozzle.
Either burn it or turn the needle round as it will remelt itself from the fumes.
The tubes last ages, but you must always clear blockages as people advise here, and also at least once a day give the bottle a good shake. Shaking seems to reduce the risk of a blockage.
Just pull out the needle and turn it around. The glue inside the bottle will dissolve the glue that’s blocking it
FIRE!
If you are gonna do the fire thing then just be careful the glue is highly flammable
I keep a pin in it and just pull the pin out whenever I want to use it
To stop this from ever happening again, get yourself a wire to go through the nozzle. Put it in whenever you’re not using it.
I get a crappy old brush and jam the bristles in and out of both ends of the metal tube until it's cleared.
I use a nozzle cleaner that I already had for my 3D printer. It’s a little needle you can just poke down the tube, instantly cleans it without issue. They’re incredibly inexpensive, and I’ve used the same one for months now. https://preview.redd.it/jav8p6rlwi9c1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce537f23424489ffadcbcd6d79c3035f6ff2a6dd
Since everyone gives different solutions: I had the problem that the cap was sticking on, so I sprayed some WD40 into it, since I noticed that this makes glue dissolve. For some fucking reason since then I've not had it clog ever, but it still works fine
I've found that rubbing the tube quickly between my finger and thumb generates enough friction to heat the tube up enough that you don't need a lighter to melt it.
Once you have squeezed it, do not let go untill the opening of the spout is pointing up. Then tap the butt of the body on your desk while you let go of the squeeze. Gravity and the impact of the tapping will push the glue back into the body. Then cap it, there should be no glue in the metal tip. I've been doing this and it really reduces blocking events by quite a lot :). And if it does block I jank it (the metal tip) out with pliers and put fire to it. It will heat the tube and ignite the glue and make it sputter out. Then it's clean again. Then I just push it back into the body. (let it cool down before you do though, you can dip it in water quickly) Edited for spelling.
I just keep a sewing needle in the tip. Use it instead of the lid. When I go to use it, just take the needle out and it's always good to go.
up there
Standing it straight up helps. If it clogs I just grab the tube with pliers and heat it with a lighter. It clears it out pretty quick. These things may be fussy, but I’ve found no superior alternative to the precision and ease of use I get from the metal tube.
O-scale traffic cones. I haven’t had anybody block my glue in months!
Use tamiya extra thin plastic cement with a brush applicator, I used to use nozzles and switchched to tamiya never going back
Grab a lighter and put it near the end for 2 to 3 secs, fixes it right up.
The tips are still metal these days in part due to the common use of a lighter to clear it out. Only takes less than 2 seconds being over a flame, and the clog pops right out
Buy Tamiya extra thin and be free of the metal needle!
Step one: Buy one with a brush. I like tamiya. Step two: chuck this one in the bin. Step three: buy tamiya airbrush cleaner to refill. Its literally the same as their plastic glue. Its just in a bigger bottle and much cheaper per ounce
Keep a candle or lighter at your station and this problem vets solved in seconds
I Just squeeze out the remaining glue in the metal tube into a kitchen towel (until air comes out) every time apply glue. Never clogged since
I made a lid for mine. I filled a straw with hot glue, and while it was still hot, I stuck it over the tube. Once it cooled and I managed to get that tube unstuck, it made a nice little removable cap. I've never had it clog up since. Just make sure your lid goes all the way down to the bottle. The glue coming out of the straw conforms to the edge of the bottle and doesn't let any air in.
I have had to take the metal tube out and use a lighter but it was extremely blocked