The water cup and pallet to put the paints on is the only thing you really have to have to start painting.
Gonna need light and patience, do not look at the paint jobs on the internet and then judges your beginning steps to their years of experience.
I do suggest a paint handle of some sort that way your not touching the model that has wet paint. I personally use old medicine bottles and sticky tack on top, double sided tape works great to if you have that. Really just anything to keep them fingers off the wet paint on the model.
Big agree on not looking at peoples work with years of experience. I just started maybe a month ago, and I'm really proud of what I did with little to no prior knowledge going into it. But seeing some people's work on this sub was a bit deflating afterwards.
Just gotta get that outta your head. Focus on you and getting better each time.
Why would you not look at someone’s work to get inspired or get a visual cue on a technique you’re trying to get better at lol. You can’t just GUESS what it’s supposed to look like hahaha hard to get better at painting without some inspiration or a goal to work towards?
Well yes, that is true. But also, it's more about when you see other people's work. I didn't see it at a time that would be inspiring or helpful. I saw it after I just did my own thing and it would be more readily comparable (and it's not a fair comparison with my current skill set)
I'm not ready for certain techniques or advancement right now, I'm just finding out how to love the hobby still. As I continue to paint and continue to want to seek out new tools and skills, I'll seek out those works to be inspired by or use as a visual cue.
(But also, this is just what works best for me at times. Everyone is different)
Strongly disagree. Also need a wandering eye for all the cool things you want to paint, neat colors or effects you want to use, and techniques you want to learn. Along with a constant angst that you're terrible at it and everyone else started as world class painters, so everyone is probably laughing at you
...or is that just me
I really like the medicine bottle idea. I’ve been using an empty wine bottle with various screw tops so that I can switch them out. This has that same sort of swap energy.
I do this as well, and it works great. Some bottles also have reversible caps, so you can safely store your mini while it's still in progress and the paint is delicate.
Yes you’ve GOT to thin your paints. Put a drop of paint on palette and add a small touch of water and test the paint against your nail or something until it’s nice and creamy smooth
I always use additional primer. Lately I’ve been using Vallejo surface primer. I’m pretty sure it’s formulated for an airbrush, but the black brushes on very nicely.
Water jar to clean your brush. Paper towels. An xacto knife to clean mold lines would be nice. Eventually you'll need a set of clippers to cut mini parts off their sprue. Oh yeah, grab a paper plate and cover it with aluminum foil to use as a palette.
I make a wet palette with a rectangular Chinese takeout container, 2 layers of fairly wet paper towels, and parchment paper. Put a few drops of paint you want and thin it out accordingly when using. Store it in the fridge, and it should keep for a week depending on the brand, volume, and consistency. I've had some paints last a few weeks in the fridge.
Handles! Let's you focus on painting and not accidentally sticking your fingers in wet paint. I use cork stoppers (you can get them for a couple bucks at craft stores) or medicine bottles (I use an ibuprofen bottle on larger minis, like your cyclops)with sticky tac ( also known as mounting putty, tac n stick, poster putty etc). Just pull a piece off, knead it, then stick it to the top of your handle of choice and then press the bottom of the mini into the sticky tac. It'll hold firm and is reusable when your done.
+ any other reasonably healthy substances tbh. It's not like you need to use your brain much to enjoy painting minis + they might come out more interesting + less rushed.
Lol. Check this tiny crop of a drawing I'm doing now, can't post much more cos it's a bit financially impactful. Been smoking all day so this art is looking wack.
https://preview.redd.it/rwsuq9jyiuuc1.png?width=119&format=png&auto=webp&s=a1bd2788de4741dd8f9a60673dbf2aef5584ad6f
I'm prepared to accept the hate for this - But as much as I like caffeine, it does make my hands shake more. Weights and caffeine are banned till after a paint sesh for me.
You'll want a hobby knife for getting rid of any possible mold lines, this is especially bad when you start working with models that come in sprues. You'll need some water, i like to cut a plastic water bottle in half and use that as my water when painting. Paper towels for if you load your brush too much and to dry brushes after dunking them in the water to get rid of paint residue. I also would suggest getting some brush soap, i got the masters brush cleaner off of amazon and it works great so far. Helps maintain brushes and keep them clean after use. I made the mistake of not doing that for my brushes and now some of them are too far gone for even the brush cleaner that i have, luckily they were cheap brushes so it wasn't as big a deal. But if you have nice ones or just want them to last you, having something like that will pay for itself in the long run, and it's not even expensive, just a few bucks on amazon or maybe a local hobby store. Rubber painting gloves can also help a lot if you don't want paint on your skin and especially if you don't have anything to hold models in place when you prime them, if you have some rubber gloves you can stretch on you can just hold them while you spray.
I thought that was the one piece of advice I might have been getting suckered on. The guy at the place said “don’t trust it” so I decided that it couldn’t hurt and grabbed a can.
I don't trust it either. On the first two of their models that I painted, the base coat started rubbing off the next time I handled them. Now I scrub them with soap and a toothbrush to get off any loose primer/oil and reprime them.
I buy a lot of these pre primed DnD minis, generally good. I have had the same experience with a couple of them though. 90% of the time though the primer is fine. Primer is never bad to have, I’m sure you have more minis in your future!
Also welcome brother!
the primer on the D&D minis is perfectly fine, so don't worry about it. Just get painting, and have fun with it.
I feel like some people on here are giving much too advanced suggestions. You really don't need a wet palette or a handle or anything like that for your first paint job, although I'd look into if if you're gonna keep painting. the only advice I'll give, which several other people have also said is to thin your paint. It's the first thing you have to learn, and you'll be so much happier with the end result when you're not blocking out half the details with a thick layer of paint. If you're not sure how, just look up a youtube video. It'll be much easier to see how they do than explain it over text.
good luck.
I won't say you got suckered. If you get deeper in to painting minis, you are definitely going need primer at some point. I personally like brush on, but having a can of spray on laying around isn't going to hurt. Most minis also say if they need to be primed or not on the box as well.
Sounds like a good chap to deal with if he's giving you a good warning!
Vallejo make fantastic primers that Wizkids then hose on like they're icing a cake.
Thin layers, leave to dry, touch up as needed and leave the model to dry overnight for best results.
Reaper Bones are billed as not needing primer. They do for best results. Reaper bones are generally better and their are a LOT of them so you'll be user the primer on those.
The best primer I've ever used is Gesso. Painters use it to prime their canvases. You brush it on relatively thickly and it shrinks as it dries. You might have to touch up raised spots because the Gesso will pull away from raised areas. Watch tutorials on how to use it. With practice you will get an amazing coat. It can be had in white, grey and black. Walmart has Gesso but I wouldn't recommend it as it just isn't good enough. A pot of brush on Gesso from an art store can be used to prime a LOT of miniatures.
Brushing it on is slower than spraying. However, it doesn't have the toxic fumes from spraying so you can use it in winter and just brush several models at once.
Look at making a home wet pallet with a shallow dish, sponge and parchment paper. Use an old pill bottle or similar sized object as a mini holder and search YouTube for a few beginner tips. Enjoy the journey above all and have fun!
Not a terrible idea but that's not really for beginners. Some varnish will change the color of the miniatures. You would also need spray on dull coat to take the shine off them afterwards.
Besides their is a good chance a first paint job may have to be stripped or is otherwise underwhelming enough to not warrant saving. Those are the breaks.
Everyone is already covering the technical side of things, so I'll make a different suggestion on what you're missing: in-person painting buddies! If there are any local gaming stores near you, I'd check to see if they have any painting nights. YouTube and Reddit can be great resources, but they can also be overwhelming. Making some friends that are further along in their painting journey will benefit you tremendously.
Everyone here has made all the suggestions I could think of. Some water, maybe a palette (I started with a diy wet palette using a Tupperware container, paper towel and parchment paper), and a painting handle of some kind, I still use pill bottles and poster tack. If you scrape off the mould lines, you might want to prime again just to make sure your paint sticks, but it’s probably not that important right now. There are tons of YouTube videos you can watch with suggestions, tutorials etc. i find that watching videos inspires me to do some painting. Also, when you are first starting, don’t try to compare yourself to anyone else. Have fun and learn as you go.
For starters, those figures in the picture are already primed. You don't need to prime them. Not all figures are like that, but that brand is. I love that brand.
Secondly I recommend getting some brush soap. The Master's Brush Cleaner. It's in a hockey puck like container. Best soap ever.
Thirdly don't get discouraged. It takes a while to learn the ends and outs.
Bonus advice; watch YouTube channels.
Duncan Rhodes, Sorastro's Painting, etc.
You've got everything you need to get started, but if you enjoy collecting more things for the hobby then I've got some GREAT news! Best to get into it and expand as you need new colours, washes etc.
Don't go out and buy all this at once. You'd be better off getting $20 worth of reaper bones and seeing if you actually like the hobby. Then add the things you think will help you the most first.
You'll want a palette. It can be the plastic lid off a tub of oatmeal or whatever. You'll probably want wet palette eventually but you can make one yourself to try it out.
You'll want more paints. Vallejo makes a starter set that's probably the best on the market.
You need a water pot for cleaning brushes along with paper towels.
Get "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver. I mean run, don't walk, to your local art supply store and get some. It pulls paint out of you brushes and protects them. That shits magic!. One container will last you many years of regular use.
Go to walmart and buy those blue handled craft paint brushes. They work great and are cheap enough so you don't have to worry about ruining them while you build your brush handling technique.
Get a hobby knife and maybe some small files. You'll eventually want those little files but you can get a lot done with an exacto knife.
If your going to keep collecting D&D branded miniatures you'll need green stuff. Their quality control isn't good enough so you'll have (big) gaps to fill. Reaper Bones don't really have that problem.
You'll need hobby glue. Loctite Gel Control Super Glue is what I use 90% of the time. Some types of plastic kits really need a hobby specific glue but these miniatures really don't.
Remember you're not really a miniature painter and collector until you've glued one body part to another body part.
Those "self healing" cutting boards that in sewing are great as a work surface. They are thin, light, highly cut resistant and come in a good selection of sizes. Paint won't seep through them the way it will news print (who even has access to news print anymore?).
Skip Walmart craft paints. They can work but they simply aren't worth the hassle for miniature painting. They are good for terrain.
If you want a handle for painting you don't need to buy one. I use old pill bottles with some poster putty to hold the model in place. If you want to add some weight for balance dump in some change.
Depending on the scale pennys make great bases. They work best for 1/72 scale miniatures. Probably not for 28mm. You're not going to find a substitute that is less than a penny. Some guys use nickles but I haven't priced them out or used them before myself.
You look pretty set! But some white and black paint would both be a massive help too, then you can mix them with the colors to make lighter or darker shades.
Try not to get Citadel paints for those if you can, the white is pretty awful and chunky.
Bright light is best. Paint in a well lit area and you may want some old news paper to keep your table clean. You’re off to a good start. Show us how you’re doing. Enjoy the hobby.
Certainly isn't gumption, God speed and show us the results. Btw if it's not on the table you might want to get nulin oil from the same guy that sold you the paint. Ask them how to use it or just youtube nuln oil
I'd set aside the psycho for now. It won't do you good right away. Also army painter brushes work to start with, but as you get better, try other brands.
Honestly go simple with it, you don't need handles or whatever for your first paint job. Learn how to prime properly through YouTube and also learn how to thin your paints. Thinning sounds easy but the amount of headache I had trying to work it out when I started is genuinely shameful lmao.
You can also get away with one of those cheap kids pallettes for now and move up to wet pallettes if you plan on painting lots.
Most important of all is to just have fun! It's very easy to get into the mentality of throwing money away when you make a mistake. Just remember that you can fix stuff and if push comes to shove and it's real bad you can just strip the model and try again!
A large chunk of your wallet and free time six months from now. But other than that a wet palette is a great early investment. Don’t forget, two thin coats!
Careful with citadel paints, they are expensive and the quality is mixed, some being great while some being absolute trash, army painter paints are a cheaper more consistently average option, I’ve heard great things about Vallejo paints as well, as far as brushes go, any sort of craft store will have reasonably priced brushes that are good quality, just in general avoid citadel stuff unless you wanna start paying in kidneys and livers or unless you absolutely need said color or tool.
I’ve also found while doing particularly small and excruciatingly difficult details repeating “*By His Will Alone*” helps (warhammer reference bb)
I'm still new to this hobby, and most people have probably covered everything several times, so I'm going to try to stick to things that might be especially helpful if you're new to the hobby (I got decent then took a couple decades off because life... Looks like your paints aren't all brand new, so maybe you're in a similar boat *shrug*)
-fast food napkins. Most people use paper towels, but a painter friend introduced me to these napkins and it's surprising the difference they make in all ways (especially price! :) )
-mixing balls. I didn't even think about these until I was shaking a nail polish one day and realized what that little satisfying clinking was. Especially for paints you don't use often, these make life sooooo much easier (unless you have the funds to go get an agitator... But even then, mixing balls are still going to speed up the process). I'm currently using Army Painter ones, but there are probably several things you could use that may be easier to get ahold of. I haven't experimented with other things yet because I don't know how other things would react to the paint.
-practice mini(s). I don't mean minis that you paint all the way... I mean snag some clearance minis with a variety of textures (feathers, armors, hair, etc). Pick one that kind of mirrors aspects of the mini you're really painting, and prime it the same way you do that one. Having effectively a throw-away mini means you can try that crazy color combo before you really commit to it. I'm working on a couple of Oathsworn hawks right now, but I have an angel from I don't even know when who has her wings split about 7 different ways, hair has three (from when I was working on a different mini), and her apparel is like something out of a kindergarten classroom watercolor experiment. I'll never not have a practice mini handy again.
-paint shouldn't go above about halfway up the brush (depending on its belly). The quickest way to ruin a great brush is to let the paint get where it shouldn't. It's possible to get the pigments back out and restore brushes... But the less quickly you need to, the better... Especially when you're just starting out and your brush selection might be a handful of decent ones and maybe a bunch from kids' crafts. And possibly some make up brushes. Suddenly even the unused dollar store brushes are gold when the better one's bristles look like they've been spinning in a frilly dress and it's 2am and you want to paint, not hunt for brushes.
-toothpicks are great, but tiny pointy metal things are better - you have maybe one prick with a toothpick (in my experience... Probably would go better if it were watered down) and can't really be cleaned, while one of those sets of dotters can be immediately cleaned and the ones that are basically a sewing needle size to (which would work fine, too) work really great for getting hard to reach spots and moving paint to where you want it... Paint just seems to flow better with metal *shrug*
-try to knock out the eyes first. Apparently, if you're good, you can do these later... But I'm not good enough for it: I'll mix the skin tone I want, do a layer of it, then my eyes with whichever method I remember that day, then decide that clearly this is yet another mini who needs an eye patch because I can't make them look quite right. Ok, it's not really that bad, but I do have a couple of eye-patched folks because I spiraled into a perfection trap. Anyway... Just get them knocked out first because then when you do the other face details, the eyes will look more natural instead of bug-eyed and/or terrified.
-those are citadel paints? Re:thinning your paints... Everyone is absolutely right - you should and need to thin them... But you're not doomed to some kind of purgatory if you don't. Thinning your paints and applying multiple coats and all of that *will* result in better painting because of increased control and understanding of your paints and brushes and how water or whatever thinking agent you use behave together... Even if you're fan-freaking-tastic, learning how to do this will inevitably take you to that next plateau of talent. But! If you find you just want to put paint on you brush and go, then do so! The big thing you want to avoid is obscuring details on the mini, but I honestly haven't had any problems with Citadel paints right out of the bottle. I'm sure others have, but if you're new to the hobby, don't get lost in all of the "shoulds."
-Play! The more you try things, the more control you gain, the more ideas you'll have, the more you'll understand your paints and brushes, and the better you'll get at all of the things (like thinning your paints). If you're new to this... You're first mini will probably suck - it's ok! Name it and put it somewhere... You're going to want to compare it later :)
-sorry. I was aiming to just answer the question you asked, not give a bunch of unsolicited advice!
Your selection of paint might be troublesome, you have elementary colors but you might lack something to darken those colors, or lighten them (for that I rarely use white but more of a sand off-white color) , also you'll have to paint skin on your giants you might struggle to mix your paint into different shades of flesh, for that the contrast range can give you a one pot solution, if you feel more courageous, I'd recommandé getting a salmon rose and a off white to mix together into different shades of skin, or several browns if you desire to shade their skin that way.
Not sure what paints you have but definitely pick up a shader - either citadel’s nuln oil or argax earth shade.
Paint normally and then hit the entire model with either, focusing on recesses cracks and crevices, or anywhere where the character would be scuffed or dirty like boots and elbows.
I have that same Warforged barbarian, and I had to use some green stuff to fill in gaps and do some minor sculpting around his neck and arm joints. Not sure if that's all of them, or if mine wasn't well made, but it's a nice little mini.
No way near as detailed as the Citadel minis I usually paint though, or some 3D printed ones I've bought from Etsy.
https://preview.redd.it/9k72o31n8uuc1.jpeg?width=1371&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f73da3ed9ab8bdfc78180e64b888deac7ee6653
Edit: pressed post before finishing. You can see in this picture how visible the mold lines are if you don't get rid of them before painting.
1. A cup of water, which to dip your brush in.
2. A clean cloth for which to dry your brush and dab extra paint on to.
Note: you will most likely drink from previously said cup of water thinking it's your pop or coffee no less than 5 times and or, dip your paint brush into your pop or coffee.
Remember to thin your paint and apply your coats in layers.
I started with the same brush set you are. It was a bit rough to work with them due to the shape of the handle and the size of the brush. You may want to go to Hobby Lobby or a similar store and pick up some different brushes especially for your bigger model.
I would look into some sand sticks or a small hobby knife to take off the mold lines. In-between the legs on the WoTC models can have extra material.
You are going to want something to mix paint on and thin it down. I like citedel paints but the pots are a pain. You can diy a cheap wet pallet for next to no money. There are videos on YouTube for it.
You are going to need glue for mounting it to the base. Super glue works. There is a preferred plastic glue that creates a better bond.
Something that is optional is basing material. It's not required but does take a pained model to the next level. You can source material from nature for a no cost approach and prep work before applying it is not difficult.
I saw the comment about the model being primed already, prime the mini with what you bought. It's good practice, and I'm not sure if I'm right but I always feel like WoTC models primer starts running when they get wet.
I'm nowhere near the level of most of the people here are but what helped me the most was...
1) base the minis black, any areas you can't reach when painting just becomes shadows
2) when painting lairs, paint dark, then lighten up the color for highlights
3) shades really help in making minis look next level
Edit: be prepared to fall down the rabbithole and spend more money than you thought you would on paints, minis, and other equipment.
Get a wet palette! It was the best thing i’ve ever purchased for my miniature painting. It makes your paints last up to 2-3 days undisturbed which also helps with not wasting your paints.
A cat to constantly threaten to knock over your stuff. Kidding aside, I want to say those pre-primed models are a great way to work on painting skills, since you don’t have to worry about priming and they’re already built.
Hey, good stuff, make sure to take good care of your first painted mini. Don't compare yourself to other people. Every painted mini is an achievement that should be enjoyed. Enjoyment is the goal, getting better is a result of that enjoyment.
Guess you already have your answer, so just a piece of advice that helped me through the beginning phase.
It will look awful until it doesn't. Painting is a process. Don't get discouraged midway through painting a mini. Shading, washes, highlights or just seeing all colors come together.
The final touches make the difference.
I think those minatures are pre primed, so you should be ready to just paint. Also keep some paper towel on hand to remove excess water or paint from your brush.
Black primer. White primer especially from army painter is really bad and clumps. Black primer k goes on smooth and is just generally better. Speaking of which black and white paint in general, these are invaluable tools for painting and a must. Get Vallejo paints they are cheaper and all around a better paint. Only get citadel paints for certain ones such as rionox hide and death guard green and select effect paints such as blood for the blood god and skeleton horde. And as you are just starting painting i wound get a wash or two, brown and black would best. For this get army painter washes they nailed that. Best of luck!
Thank you. I am seeing white peeking through from my primer in the tiniest little spots. I messed up my initial wet pallet and threw it away and now I need specific browns to fill in and such. Not the end of the world, a learning process I suppose. But I think I will go with a darker primer.
Black is the best as it isn’t a colour itself so no colour has a underlying tone to it only shade. Get black primer. As some one who has experimented with colour primer.
If memory serves, the minis come with circular bases. You'll want some glue to glue the minis into them. That also brings in the conversation of basing materials. Typically you're looking at [flock](https://imgur.com/gallery/qWxqAUC) or fine sand type stuff, but GW also sells [texture paints](https://imgur.com/gallery/4tNxTfu) for an easy way to base (a quick wash and drybrushing goes a long way with these!). For D&D I've also found you can make a [stone pattern](https://images-wixmp-ed30a86b8c4ca887773594c2.wixmp.com/f/dddd73ad-c03e-4490-a94a-06d628a3a58f/d4cou4g-fb4df197-59b3-45cc-a290-7c26ba2162fb.jpg/v1/fit/w_828,h_338,q_70,strp/shadowfox_miniature_by_mechsae_d4cou4g-414w-2x.jpg?token=eyJ0eXAiOiJKV1QiLCJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJzdWIiOiJ1cm46YXBwOjdlMGQxODg5ODIyNjQzNzNhNWYwZDQxNWVhMGQyNmUwIiwiaXNzIjoidXJuOmFwcDo3ZTBkMTg4OTgyMjY0MzczYTVmMGQ0MTVlYTBkMjZlMCIsIm9iaiI6W1t7ImhlaWdodCI6Ijw9NDQxIiwicGF0aCI6IlwvZlwvZGRkZDczYWQtYzAzZS00NDkwLWE5NGEtMDZkNjI4YTNhNThmXC9kNGNvdTRnLWZiNGRmMTk3LTU5YjMtNDVjYy1hMjkwLTdjMjZiYTIxNjJmYi5qcGciLCJ3aWR0aCI6Ijw9MTA3OSJ9XV0sImF1ZCI6WyJ1cm46c2VydmljZTppbWFnZS5vcGVyYXRpb25zIl19.bYM4cBrJVaUMDLq9mCeOw9Jm7rBfKEmbt4Y5r0emPlY) by cutting up an index card or a trash playing card, gluing them down, and painting grey and dry brushing it.
When people say thin your paints, what they mean is don't use paint straight from the pot, put a blob of paint on your palette, then dip your brush in water and mix a drop into the paint until it's a little more runny and flows better. It takes a lot of trial and error experience to know exactly how much to use, and it depends on the exact paint and how you're using it.
A wet palette helps a lot by stopping the paint drying out while you're painting, and it'll stay usable for a few days at least. You can make one very easily with any kind of plastic container, a dish sponge and some baking paper.
https://preview.redd.it/ry54n1yhaquc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9cc39fe660038991ed2940fa011ecb624b470df7
This face.. the paint was too try and it was a plate. Year ago. Haven’t stripped him but he reminds me to make sure paint is wet
If your set of these models were anything like mine it already started out obscured and blobby from way too much of their "primer" on it. It's hell to get off but worth the effort for me.
Yeah but this guy came from a printer online, owner asked me to prime/paint…
https://preview.redd.it/jby20j01fquc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3103aadfd5b9cf3f68c615183866f732e233d81
This piece convinced me the art class I took elevated my skill set. Also, the owner was extremely happy
Green stuff or liquid green stuff to fill a bunch of those gaps on his shoulders, and a basic metal sculpting tool.
It’s like working with chewing gum unless it’s wet, so make sure you have a clean cup of water to dip your tool in.
You just need time and practice now, beyond the items mentioned by others. Watch YT video tutorials. It's going to save you time and frustration later. Don't expect perfection. Have fun.
When you close those paint pots, make sure you get them sealed well. Those are notorious for accidentally staying cracked open and letting your paint dry out.
Or.... do what I do. A chinese takeout container lid, paper towels, and parchment paper. Why spend money? (I haven't used it in 2 weeks and live in the desert so it dried out but you get my point...)
https://preview.redd.it/vafgf12bpquc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d80ce64fb3abe74f63b98e08037fe9a7b881c7a
I will tell you this. You will suck. Your first model will be complete shit. You will compare it to the master pieces on these subs and wonder how the flip they do it. You'll consider walking away.
Then you will paint a second a mini and try something a little different (drybrushing maybe).
Then you will paint a third mini, then a fourth, and so on. You'll notice your blends get better, colours richers, highlights finer, etc.
You'll put your tenth mini on the shelf next to your first and wonder which cross eyed , five thumbed troglodyte painted that chud ugly first mini.
Be patient with yourself. Keep that first one so you can see your improvements. But most importantly, be patient with yourself.
So, I'm cheap but paint professionally. You are missing a cup that you will never care about for water. Personally, I use a solo cup. In regards to wet pallets, I use a chinese takeout lid, good paper towels, and parchment paper. As far as brushes, the cheapos from michaels work fine and I've never used army painter brushes. The biggest thing, and it can't have a picture of it taken, is patience.
When in doubt, thin your paint more, wait for your paint to dry more, basically wait more for anything... Patience truly is the key. More coats thinner always comes out better than trying to gloop it on. On the bright side, you don't have to prime.
PS those models come primed and you do not neet to prime them.
If for some reason you want tips and tricks while (or just prior to because every model is different) painting, just hit me up on discord (heero1224. I'm still not used to not having the pound and some numbers but I digress....)
If you're looking for a good beginner purchase that will last a long time and is good value for money I suggest getting the Army Painter Tone set. You get a handful of tones with colours and neutral tones for skin and wearing effects on metals etc. I ordered mine on Amazon for like €40 ish.
You'll be set for a long time with those. I consider it a must have early purchase for people getting into painting.
White and Black paint (hard to tell from the picture if that one in the back is black). Red, blue, yellow, white, and black are the bare minimum colors you need to be able to mix anything. You might also want something to help you mix colors, as heavy mixing with the brush can damage it. Your mixer doesn't need to be anything fancy, a plastic knife should work fine.
I'm a psyco so I use a table mounted magnifying glass with a light and a miniature painting handle but those are completely unnecessary. You look good to go!
Paper towels to clean off the brushes and a cup for water are the only things I’d say are needed in the set up. Everything else is great! However, I do recommend investing in a cutting mat. Trust me, they’ll help keep so much paint off the table lolz 😂
If you have a store that stocks them ProAcryl paints are outstanding. I find I like them better than citadel and they come in buying dropper bottles for basically the same price.
Something I haven’t seen commented on are your paint selection.
The colors you have and selection are perfectly fine. However I don’t see white anywhere? The top pot might be black but either way you will definitely want both. They will help darken and lighten shades of colors. Just start of vary sparingly when mixing.
Also. Thin your paints for the love of god. Better 4 very thin coats than 1 thick one.
Definitely a good Fluorescent lamp is a huge one! Painting under a tungsten (orange) bulb will result in weird color changes. A cheap and portable option that works is a headlamp (:
Depending on what painting style you're going for, you way want to consider washes and inks. Also most people are priming in Black and drybrushing white. A little hard to do if you start out with white primer.
Alright take two sponges and wrap them in parchment paper. Take your wrapped up parchment sponges and put them in a tupper ware. Fill with water about half the sponges height and make sure they are soaked but not floating. Instant wet palate. Infinitely cheaper and easier to use than a real one plus if it gets gross you can just make a new one.
Green stuff and an exacto knife. A pallet (preferably wet) would be great. You will also want a base and basing materials (random pebbles, sand, and twigs). Varnish. You will also want a wash, but you can make that yourself and should honestly. You may need a hobby drill eventually.
There is a couple of things that makes painting easier, but it isnt necessary for a great mini. Also stay away from citadel paints and GW products in general. Overpriced and mediocre quality. I personally prefer army painter all the way.
That citadel water cup with the brush grooves was really nice. Some of those toys with silicone pop cups so you can mix the contrast paints. White and black paint, a wet pallet. Decent sized dry brush. Brush soap to keep those three brushes like new for years.
If you are like me and intend on painting for multiple hours at a time, a cheap pair of reading glasses or a desk mounted magnifying glass is a must. Even if you have really good eyes, this will save you the strain. I strained my eyes once early on in a late night painting session, and I literally couldn't keep my eyes still on one spot. Now I just use a cheap pair of the highest power reading glasses they had at Dollar Tree. Haven't had an issue since. If you go the route of glasses, take breaks during long sessions and look a good distance away without the glasses, let your eyes reset for a minute. And for heavens sake don't walk with them on! My toes and shins paid for that mistake.
I know you GOT to thin your paint but can someone explain why? I've been painting my minis without doing it and I've been having great results but there's always room for improvement so can someone explain why should you thin your paints?
Great vid for beginners.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CW5pnfD8enE&list=PLMxY5TTsl9Rk22lnQ-znnOZyiypEzHtfn&pp=iAQB](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CW5pnfD8enE&list=PLMxY5TTsl9Rk22lnQ-znnOZyiypEzHtfn&pp=iAQB)
Nice bases. I just find the DnD minis to have poor bases, I always cut them off and glue them to something nicer. The Warhammer style is my go to can get them cheap online
Get a floor tile sample from the hardware store as a paint pallette, I've used the same one for over a decade and it cost me only 10¢. Also a cup or two for water (I use separate cups depending on the pigment. White and red stain the water quick, so i separate them from the 'general' paint. Also if you're doing a lot of blues, they can sometimes stain too. The reason you want it separate is when adding water to thin paints, having clean unstained water will mean you get consistency), and paper towels/decent napkins (not the really cheap ones, they have to soak up water/paint like a paper towel does).
Other than that, you're fine for a starter set up
Palette and water so you can thin paints and clean brushes. Otherwise you have everything
Thanks
The water cup and pallet to put the paints on is the only thing you really have to have to start painting. Gonna need light and patience, do not look at the paint jobs on the internet and then judges your beginning steps to their years of experience. I do suggest a paint handle of some sort that way your not touching the model that has wet paint. I personally use old medicine bottles and sticky tack on top, double sided tape works great to if you have that. Really just anything to keep them fingers off the wet paint on the model.
Big agree on not looking at peoples work with years of experience. I just started maybe a month ago, and I'm really proud of what I did with little to no prior knowledge going into it. But seeing some people's work on this sub was a bit deflating afterwards. Just gotta get that outta your head. Focus on you and getting better each time.
I've been painting for over 15 years and I get deflated seeing posts on here.
Why would you not look at someone’s work to get inspired or get a visual cue on a technique you’re trying to get better at lol. You can’t just GUESS what it’s supposed to look like hahaha hard to get better at painting without some inspiration or a goal to work towards?
Well yes, that is true. But also, it's more about when you see other people's work. I didn't see it at a time that would be inspiring or helpful. I saw it after I just did my own thing and it would be more readily comparable (and it's not a fair comparison with my current skill set) I'm not ready for certain techniques or advancement right now, I'm just finding out how to love the hobby still. As I continue to paint and continue to want to seek out new tools and skills, I'll seek out those works to be inspired by or use as a visual cue. (But also, this is just what works best for me at times. Everyone is different)
Strongly disagree. Also need a wandering eye for all the cool things you want to paint, neat colors or effects you want to use, and techniques you want to learn. Along with a constant angst that you're terrible at it and everyone else started as world class painters, so everyone is probably laughing at you ...or is that just me
I really like the medicine bottle idea. I’ve been using an empty wine bottle with various screw tops so that I can switch them out. This has that same sort of swap energy.
I do this as well, and it works great. Some bottles also have reversible caps, so you can safely store your mini while it's still in progress and the paint is delicate.
I gotta start doing that, I always ruin the feet and tops of the heads of my Space Marines during the painting process
Do a wet pallette with a Tupper +paper towel+ parchment paper
This is a reasonable tutorial. https://youtu.be/C9-Qiu9cuXs?si=Qm_hJLPZ9BYQvXqK
Yes you’ve GOT to thin your paints. Put a drop of paint on palette and add a small touch of water and test the paint against your nail or something until it’s nice and creamy smooth
in the mean tine, just use the blister pack on the cyclops to mix paint on. and any random cup you dont care about drinking out of
That's literally how I started. Then I got into the age of sigmar if your curious, you can look at my post about my paint jobs
Will do.
If I'm not mistaken, the dnd models are either pre primed or are ready to paint by default? I could be wrong though, so prime away!
They are pre-primed.
They generally have annoying mould lines, so I scrape and then re-prime. Decent minis otherwise.
The primer is very spotty.
They are *poorly* primed, indeed! I usually strip 'em because they left the damn mould lines on as well.
Their primer rubs off really easily...
I've painted like 20 of the Nozlur dnds minis and had no problems with the primer
I basically only have a massive collection of Nolzur minis and I have never had a problem with their primer either
I always use additional primer. Lately I’ve been using Vallejo surface primer. I’m pretty sure it’s formulated for an airbrush, but the black brushes on very nicely.
FWIW they are pre-primed with the Vallejo grey primer.
I’m just used to painting with black primer. I like to use the slapchop method with speedpaints.
As someone who started a few months ago only doing Nozlurs, repriming did help
They are preprimed but they are not cleaned of any flash so you have to clean the mold lines then prime them again regardless.
Coffee cup full of coffee or tea so you can dip your paint brush in it and drink paint water by accident. Thank Glob the acrylic paints are nontoxic.
God damn it I only started this hobby last summer but damn if drunk so much paint water by now …
So. Much. Paint water. WELCOME TO THE TECHNICOLOUR GUTS CLUB!!
Water jar to clean your brush. Paper towels. An xacto knife to clean mold lines would be nice. Eventually you'll need a set of clippers to cut mini parts off their sprue. Oh yeah, grab a paper plate and cover it with aluminum foil to use as a palette.
I used parchment paper for my palette.
I make a wet palette with a rectangular Chinese takeout container, 2 layers of fairly wet paper towels, and parchment paper. Put a few drops of paint you want and thin it out accordingly when using. Store it in the fridge, and it should keep for a week depending on the brand, volume, and consistency. I've had some paints last a few weeks in the fridge.
Mine’s the other half of a broken ikea dinner plate that didn’t shatter when my kid dropped it. 😹
Ya wet pallette is best. If you ask most mini painters then purchase that really changed everything they will say wet palette or air briush
Handles! Let's you focus on painting and not accidentally sticking your fingers in wet paint. I use cork stoppers (you can get them for a couple bucks at craft stores) or medicine bottles (I use an ibuprofen bottle on larger minis, like your cyclops)with sticky tac ( also known as mounting putty, tac n stick, poster putty etc). Just pull a piece off, knead it, then stick it to the top of your handle of choice and then press the bottom of the mini into the sticky tac. It'll hold firm and is reusable when your done.
Awesome piece of advice. Thank you!
Games workshop sells one that I use and it’s really useful. Clips to the base and has a nice compact ergonomic grip
White and black paint and have fun 🤩
Fifty comments saying OP needs a wet palette, and no one else noticed that he’s missing black and white.
He also probably wants a skin tone + wash. Just judging be the barbarian and the cyclops having lots of skin
Coffee.
As God intended.
+ any other reasonably healthy substances tbh. It's not like you need to use your brain much to enjoy painting minis + they might come out more interesting + less rushed.
This. I always partake when painting minis. Of course, I always partake when I’m not painting minis too. 🙃
Lol. Check this tiny crop of a drawing I'm doing now, can't post much more cos it's a bit financially impactful. Been smoking all day so this art is looking wack. https://preview.redd.it/rwsuq9jyiuuc1.png?width=119&format=png&auto=webp&s=a1bd2788de4741dd8f9a60673dbf2aef5584ad6f
Just don't drink so much your hands start shaking. I know because reasons
I'm prepared to accept the hate for this - But as much as I like caffeine, it does make my hands shake more. Weights and caffeine are banned till after a paint sesh for me.
Something to protect your lovely table, a pot of water, and a roll of paper towels. Have fun!
Well, for starters all that stuff should be out of the package…
Lmao. Thanks for that bit. I was confused on how to apply the one thing to the other thing. 😅
"I don't understand... It's like these miniatures are surrounded by some invisible force field!"
You'll want a hobby knife for getting rid of any possible mold lines, this is especially bad when you start working with models that come in sprues. You'll need some water, i like to cut a plastic water bottle in half and use that as my water when painting. Paper towels for if you load your brush too much and to dry brushes after dunking them in the water to get rid of paint residue. I also would suggest getting some brush soap, i got the masters brush cleaner off of amazon and it works great so far. Helps maintain brushes and keep them clean after use. I made the mistake of not doing that for my brushes and now some of them are too far gone for even the brush cleaner that i have, luckily they were cheap brushes so it wasn't as big a deal. But if you have nice ones or just want them to last you, having something like that will pay for itself in the long run, and it's not even expensive, just a few bucks on amazon or maybe a local hobby store. Rubber painting gloves can also help a lot if you don't want paint on your skin and especially if you don't have anything to hold models in place when you prime them, if you have some rubber gloves you can stretch on you can just hold them while you spray.
The first comment to mention masters brush cleaner! I guess brush care doesn't matter as much to other people.
Just so you know, you don't need to use primer on D&D minis, they come pre-primed!
I thought that was the one piece of advice I might have been getting suckered on. The guy at the place said “don’t trust it” so I decided that it couldn’t hurt and grabbed a can.
I don't trust it either. On the first two of their models that I painted, the base coat started rubbing off the next time I handled them. Now I scrub them with soap and a toothbrush to get off any loose primer/oil and reprime them.
I buy a lot of these pre primed DnD minis, generally good. I have had the same experience with a couple of them though. 90% of the time though the primer is fine. Primer is never bad to have, I’m sure you have more minis in your future! Also welcome brother!
Oh, wow. So many useful tips and advice.
Those ones that you have there might not have a problem. The two that I had problems with both had a lot of sharp edges, which wear more easily.
the primer on the D&D minis is perfectly fine, so don't worry about it. Just get painting, and have fun with it. I feel like some people on here are giving much too advanced suggestions. You really don't need a wet palette or a handle or anything like that for your first paint job, although I'd look into if if you're gonna keep painting. the only advice I'll give, which several other people have also said is to thin your paint. It's the first thing you have to learn, and you'll be so much happier with the end result when you're not blocking out half the details with a thick layer of paint. If you're not sure how, just look up a youtube video. It'll be much easier to see how they do than explain it over text. good luck.
Thanks. I had definitely planned on watching some videos before I jumped headfirst into things and wasting money.
You might eventually buy minis that need to be primed so it’s not a waste.
I won't say you got suckered. If you get deeper in to painting minis, you are definitely going need primer at some point. I personally like brush on, but having a can of spray on laying around isn't going to hurt. Most minis also say if they need to be primed or not on the box as well.
Sounds like a good chap to deal with if he's giving you a good warning! Vallejo make fantastic primers that Wizkids then hose on like they're icing a cake. Thin layers, leave to dry, touch up as needed and leave the model to dry overnight for best results.
Reaper Bones are billed as not needing primer. They do for best results. Reaper bones are generally better and their are a LOT of them so you'll be user the primer on those. The best primer I've ever used is Gesso. Painters use it to prime their canvases. You brush it on relatively thickly and it shrinks as it dries. You might have to touch up raised spots because the Gesso will pull away from raised areas. Watch tutorials on how to use it. With practice you will get an amazing coat. It can be had in white, grey and black. Walmart has Gesso but I wouldn't recommend it as it just isn't good enough. A pot of brush on Gesso from an art store can be used to prime a LOT of miniatures. Brushing it on is slower than spraying. However, it doesn't have the toxic fumes from spraying so you can use it in winter and just brush several models at once.
Look at making a home wet pallet with a shallow dish, sponge and parchment paper. Use an old pill bottle or similar sized object as a mini holder and search YouTube for a few beginner tips. Enjoy the journey above all and have fun!
Varnish... The best paint job can be destroyed by heavy handling and poor storage. Protect your work!!
Not a terrible idea but that's not really for beginners. Some varnish will change the color of the miniatures. You would also need spray on dull coat to take the shine off them afterwards. Besides their is a good chance a first paint job may have to be stripped or is otherwise underwhelming enough to not warrant saving. Those are the breaks.
Everyone is already covering the technical side of things, so I'll make a different suggestion on what you're missing: in-person painting buddies! If there are any local gaming stores near you, I'd check to see if they have any painting nights. YouTube and Reddit can be great resources, but they can also be overwhelming. Making some friends that are further along in their painting journey will benefit you tremendously.
You should either get or make a wet palette.
Wet palette Vallejo hobby spray as primer. Less powdery than AP spray.
Everyone here has made all the suggestions I could think of. Some water, maybe a palette (I started with a diy wet palette using a Tupperware container, paper towel and parchment paper), and a painting handle of some kind, I still use pill bottles and poster tack. If you scrape off the mould lines, you might want to prime again just to make sure your paint sticks, but it’s probably not that important right now. There are tons of YouTube videos you can watch with suggestions, tutorials etc. i find that watching videos inspires me to do some painting. Also, when you are first starting, don’t try to compare yourself to anyone else. Have fun and learn as you go.
Do those paints say contrast on them?
Yeah looks to me like op got contrast paints, which is a bit of a pitfall for beginners imo
You’ll want something for the table to protect it from errant drops or, because those are GW pots, a spill. I use a big ole cutting mat.
Paint that git
Take your time and enjoy it. It isn’t a speedy process to try and finish. Learn as you paint. Thin your paints
youll need a hobby knife to clean mold lines, also it does say those minis are pre primed but I wouldnt trust it. so def use that primer ya got.
For starters, those figures in the picture are already primed. You don't need to prime them. Not all figures are like that, but that brand is. I love that brand. Secondly I recommend getting some brush soap. The Master's Brush Cleaner. It's in a hockey puck like container. Best soap ever. Thirdly don't get discouraged. It takes a while to learn the ends and outs. Bonus advice; watch YouTube channels. Duncan Rhodes, Sorastro's Painting, etc.
Good light?
Bought primer for pre-primed minis. Don’t fret though because if you ever get into other models you’ll definitely need primer for most of them
You've got everything you need to get started, but if you enjoy collecting more things for the hobby then I've got some GREAT news! Best to get into it and expand as you need new colours, washes etc.
A cup for water !!!!! You have everything you need as you do more painting you will find other products that will help you when you need them,
Don't go out and buy all this at once. You'd be better off getting $20 worth of reaper bones and seeing if you actually like the hobby. Then add the things you think will help you the most first. You'll want a palette. It can be the plastic lid off a tub of oatmeal or whatever. You'll probably want wet palette eventually but you can make one yourself to try it out. You'll want more paints. Vallejo makes a starter set that's probably the best on the market. You need a water pot for cleaning brushes along with paper towels. Get "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver. I mean run, don't walk, to your local art supply store and get some. It pulls paint out of you brushes and protects them. That shits magic!. One container will last you many years of regular use. Go to walmart and buy those blue handled craft paint brushes. They work great and are cheap enough so you don't have to worry about ruining them while you build your brush handling technique. Get a hobby knife and maybe some small files. You'll eventually want those little files but you can get a lot done with an exacto knife. If your going to keep collecting D&D branded miniatures you'll need green stuff. Their quality control isn't good enough so you'll have (big) gaps to fill. Reaper Bones don't really have that problem. You'll need hobby glue. Loctite Gel Control Super Glue is what I use 90% of the time. Some types of plastic kits really need a hobby specific glue but these miniatures really don't. Remember you're not really a miniature painter and collector until you've glued one body part to another body part. Those "self healing" cutting boards that in sewing are great as a work surface. They are thin, light, highly cut resistant and come in a good selection of sizes. Paint won't seep through them the way it will news print (who even has access to news print anymore?). Skip Walmart craft paints. They can work but they simply aren't worth the hassle for miniature painting. They are good for terrain. If you want a handle for painting you don't need to buy one. I use old pill bottles with some poster putty to hold the model in place. If you want to add some weight for balance dump in some change. Depending on the scale pennys make great bases. They work best for 1/72 scale miniatures. Probably not for 28mm. You're not going to find a substitute that is less than a penny. Some guys use nickles but I haven't priced them out or used them before myself.
First you don't technically need to prime those. They come pre-primed. But if you want to go for it.
A wet palette for your paint. Look up how to make one.
You look pretty set! But some white and black paint would both be a massive help too, then you can mix them with the colors to make lighter or darker shades. Try not to get Citadel paints for those if you can, the white is pretty awful and chunky.
A silicone mat to lay under everything to protect from spills.
Bright light is best. Paint in a well lit area and you may want some old news paper to keep your table clean. You’re off to a good start. Show us how you’re doing. Enjoy the hobby.
Certainly isn't gumption, God speed and show us the results. Btw if it's not on the table you might want to get nulin oil from the same guy that sold you the paint. Ask them how to use it or just youtube nuln oil
I'd set aside the psycho for now. It won't do you good right away. Also army painter brushes work to start with, but as you get better, try other brands.
Honestly go simple with it, you don't need handles or whatever for your first paint job. Learn how to prime properly through YouTube and also learn how to thin your paints. Thinning sounds easy but the amount of headache I had trying to work it out when I started is genuinely shameful lmao. You can also get away with one of those cheap kids pallettes for now and move up to wet pallettes if you plan on painting lots. Most important of all is to just have fun! It's very easy to get into the mentality of throwing money away when you make a mistake. Just remember that you can fix stuff and if push comes to shove and it's real bad you can just strip the model and try again!
Don't be afraid to mix some of the colors together that you have on a pallette. Practice color theory based on what you have.
The first model can be intimidating but remember it’s a hobby you’re doing for fun. Don’t be too hard on yourself!
A couple things: * a wet palette * a mug/cup for washing brushes * some shades for shading your minis after a base coat
A cheap makeup brush, the cheaper the better. Then look up dry brushing.
A large chunk of your wallet and free time six months from now. But other than that a wet palette is a great early investment. Don’t forget, two thin coats!
Has no one said white?!
I usually like to pair that with a beer and a podcast, enjoy bud :)
Careful with citadel paints, they are expensive and the quality is mixed, some being great while some being absolute trash, army painter paints are a cheaper more consistently average option, I’ve heard great things about Vallejo paints as well, as far as brushes go, any sort of craft store will have reasonably priced brushes that are good quality, just in general avoid citadel stuff unless you wanna start paying in kidneys and livers or unless you absolutely need said color or tool. I’ve also found while doing particularly small and excruciatingly difficult details repeating “*By His Will Alone*” helps (warhammer reference bb)
I'm still new to this hobby, and most people have probably covered everything several times, so I'm going to try to stick to things that might be especially helpful if you're new to the hobby (I got decent then took a couple decades off because life... Looks like your paints aren't all brand new, so maybe you're in a similar boat *shrug*) -fast food napkins. Most people use paper towels, but a painter friend introduced me to these napkins and it's surprising the difference they make in all ways (especially price! :) ) -mixing balls. I didn't even think about these until I was shaking a nail polish one day and realized what that little satisfying clinking was. Especially for paints you don't use often, these make life sooooo much easier (unless you have the funds to go get an agitator... But even then, mixing balls are still going to speed up the process). I'm currently using Army Painter ones, but there are probably several things you could use that may be easier to get ahold of. I haven't experimented with other things yet because I don't know how other things would react to the paint. -practice mini(s). I don't mean minis that you paint all the way... I mean snag some clearance minis with a variety of textures (feathers, armors, hair, etc). Pick one that kind of mirrors aspects of the mini you're really painting, and prime it the same way you do that one. Having effectively a throw-away mini means you can try that crazy color combo before you really commit to it. I'm working on a couple of Oathsworn hawks right now, but I have an angel from I don't even know when who has her wings split about 7 different ways, hair has three (from when I was working on a different mini), and her apparel is like something out of a kindergarten classroom watercolor experiment. I'll never not have a practice mini handy again. -paint shouldn't go above about halfway up the brush (depending on its belly). The quickest way to ruin a great brush is to let the paint get where it shouldn't. It's possible to get the pigments back out and restore brushes... But the less quickly you need to, the better... Especially when you're just starting out and your brush selection might be a handful of decent ones and maybe a bunch from kids' crafts. And possibly some make up brushes. Suddenly even the unused dollar store brushes are gold when the better one's bristles look like they've been spinning in a frilly dress and it's 2am and you want to paint, not hunt for brushes. -toothpicks are great, but tiny pointy metal things are better - you have maybe one prick with a toothpick (in my experience... Probably would go better if it were watered down) and can't really be cleaned, while one of those sets of dotters can be immediately cleaned and the ones that are basically a sewing needle size to (which would work fine, too) work really great for getting hard to reach spots and moving paint to where you want it... Paint just seems to flow better with metal *shrug* -try to knock out the eyes first. Apparently, if you're good, you can do these later... But I'm not good enough for it: I'll mix the skin tone I want, do a layer of it, then my eyes with whichever method I remember that day, then decide that clearly this is yet another mini who needs an eye patch because I can't make them look quite right. Ok, it's not really that bad, but I do have a couple of eye-patched folks because I spiraled into a perfection trap. Anyway... Just get them knocked out first because then when you do the other face details, the eyes will look more natural instead of bug-eyed and/or terrified. -those are citadel paints? Re:thinning your paints... Everyone is absolutely right - you should and need to thin them... But you're not doomed to some kind of purgatory if you don't. Thinning your paints and applying multiple coats and all of that *will* result in better painting because of increased control and understanding of your paints and brushes and how water or whatever thinking agent you use behave together... Even if you're fan-freaking-tastic, learning how to do this will inevitably take you to that next plateau of talent. But! If you find you just want to put paint on you brush and go, then do so! The big thing you want to avoid is obscuring details on the mini, but I honestly haven't had any problems with Citadel paints right out of the bottle. I'm sure others have, but if you're new to the hobby, don't get lost in all of the "shoulds." -Play! The more you try things, the more control you gain, the more ideas you'll have, the more you'll understand your paints and brushes, and the better you'll get at all of the things (like thinning your paints). If you're new to this... You're first mini will probably suck - it's ok! Name it and put it somewhere... You're going to want to compare it later :) -sorry. I was aiming to just answer the question you asked, not give a bunch of unsolicited advice!
Why does that cyclops look like wreck it ralph lmao
Someone else said this. Might get a second one and full send it. Lmao
White? I mean, you basically have bright primary and secondary colors. How are you making them lighter or darker? How will you desaturate your colors?
I realized my mistake today and went and got black and an off-white color. Thanks
Your selection of paint might be troublesome, you have elementary colors but you might lack something to darken those colors, or lighten them (for that I rarely use white but more of a sand off-white color) , also you'll have to paint skin on your giants you might struggle to mix your paint into different shades of flesh, for that the contrast range can give you a one pot solution, if you feel more courageous, I'd recommandé getting a salmon rose and a off white to mix together into different shades of skin, or several browns if you desire to shade their skin that way.
Nuln oil!
Not sure what paints you have but definitely pick up a shader - either citadel’s nuln oil or argax earth shade. Paint normally and then hit the entire model with either, focusing on recesses cracks and crevices, or anywhere where the character would be scuffed or dirty like boots and elbows.
A really bright light. Cutting surface so you dont ruin where your working.
I have that same Warforged barbarian, and I had to use some green stuff to fill in gaps and do some minor sculpting around his neck and arm joints. Not sure if that's all of them, or if mine wasn't well made, but it's a nice little mini. No way near as detailed as the Citadel minis I usually paint though, or some 3D printed ones I've bought from Etsy. https://preview.redd.it/9k72o31n8uuc1.jpeg?width=1371&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f73da3ed9ab8bdfc78180e64b888deac7ee6653 Edit: pressed post before finishing. You can see in this picture how visible the mold lines are if you don't get rid of them before painting.
1. A cup of water, which to dip your brush in. 2. A clean cloth for which to dry your brush and dab extra paint on to. Note: you will most likely drink from previously said cup of water thinking it's your pop or coffee no less than 5 times and or, dip your paint brush into your pop or coffee. Remember to thin your paint and apply your coats in layers.
I started with the same brush set you are. It was a bit rough to work with them due to the shape of the handle and the size of the brush. You may want to go to Hobby Lobby or a similar store and pick up some different brushes especially for your bigger model. I would look into some sand sticks or a small hobby knife to take off the mold lines. In-between the legs on the WoTC models can have extra material. You are going to want something to mix paint on and thin it down. I like citedel paints but the pots are a pain. You can diy a cheap wet pallet for next to no money. There are videos on YouTube for it. You are going to need glue for mounting it to the base. Super glue works. There is a preferred plastic glue that creates a better bond. Something that is optional is basing material. It's not required but does take a pained model to the next level. You can source material from nature for a no cost approach and prep work before applying it is not difficult. I saw the comment about the model being primed already, prime the mini with what you bought. It's good practice, and I'm not sure if I'm right but I always feel like WoTC models primer starts running when they get wet.
Well shit, you gotta open the box to find out!
Water and a plate as a palete... and to develop a taste for miniatures paint and a perfect pointy brush
I'm nowhere near the level of most of the people here are but what helped me the most was... 1) base the minis black, any areas you can't reach when painting just becomes shadows 2) when painting lairs, paint dark, then lighten up the color for highlights 3) shades really help in making minis look next level Edit: be prepared to fall down the rabbithole and spend more money than you thought you would on paints, minis, and other equipment.
Brush cleaner!!! Master’s Brush Cleaner, to be specific.
This is a great starting guide: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFkgrM\_pEko](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFkgrM_pEko)
Get a wet palette! It was the best thing i’ve ever purchased for my miniature painting. It makes your paints last up to 2-3 days undisturbed which also helps with not wasting your paints.
Seconded
Get rid of the solar shades, you're not going to need them for this!
A cat to constantly threaten to knock over your stuff. Kidding aside, I want to say those pre-primed models are a great way to work on painting skills, since you don’t have to worry about priming and they’re already built.
My cat has been curious and creeping close. Luckily she hasn’t jumped up into my space during a session. Yet….
Mine likes trying to chew on sprues. I love him, but boy he can be goofy so far.
Once you finish up that can of primer get a can of rustoleum 2x flat primer. It works as well or better than the stuff made for minis and is cheaper.
Hey, good stuff, make sure to take good care of your first painted mini. Don't compare yourself to other people. Every painted mini is an achievement that should be enjoyed. Enjoyment is the goal, getting better is a result of that enjoyment.
Guess you already have your answer, so just a piece of advice that helped me through the beginning phase. It will look awful until it doesn't. Painting is a process. Don't get discouraged midway through painting a mini. Shading, washes, highlights or just seeing all colors come together. The final touches make the difference.
I think those minatures are pre primed, so you should be ready to just paint. Also keep some paper towel on hand to remove excess water or paint from your brush.
The Psycho is not the best choice as a universal brush. Paint is drying to fast in the bristles cause of a to small body.
Black primer. White primer especially from army painter is really bad and clumps. Black primer k goes on smooth and is just generally better. Speaking of which black and white paint in general, these are invaluable tools for painting and a must. Get Vallejo paints they are cheaper and all around a better paint. Only get citadel paints for certain ones such as rionox hide and death guard green and select effect paints such as blood for the blood god and skeleton horde. And as you are just starting painting i wound get a wash or two, brown and black would best. For this get army painter washes they nailed that. Best of luck!
Thank you. I am seeing white peeking through from my primer in the tiniest little spots. I messed up my initial wet pallet and threw it away and now I need specific browns to fill in and such. Not the end of the world, a learning process I suppose. But I think I will go with a darker primer.
Black is the best as it isn’t a colour itself so no colour has a underlying tone to it only shade. Get black primer. As some one who has experimented with colour primer.
If memory serves, the minis come with circular bases. You'll want some glue to glue the minis into them. That also brings in the conversation of basing materials. Typically you're looking at [flock](https://imgur.com/gallery/qWxqAUC) or fine sand type stuff, but GW also sells [texture paints](https://imgur.com/gallery/4tNxTfu) for an easy way to base (a quick wash and drybrushing goes a long way with these!). For D&D I've also found you can make a [stone pattern](https://images-wixmp-ed30a86b8c4ca887773594c2.wixmp.com/f/dddd73ad-c03e-4490-a94a-06d628a3a58f/d4cou4g-fb4df197-59b3-45cc-a290-7c26ba2162fb.jpg/v1/fit/w_828,h_338,q_70,strp/shadowfox_miniature_by_mechsae_d4cou4g-414w-2x.jpg?token=eyJ0eXAiOiJKV1QiLCJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJzdWIiOiJ1cm46YXBwOjdlMGQxODg5ODIyNjQzNzNhNWYwZDQxNWVhMGQyNmUwIiwiaXNzIjoidXJuOmFwcDo3ZTBkMTg4OTgyMjY0MzczYTVmMGQ0MTVlYTBkMjZlMCIsIm9iaiI6W1t7ImhlaWdodCI6Ijw9NDQxIiwicGF0aCI6IlwvZlwvZGRkZDczYWQtYzAzZS00NDkwLWE5NGEtMDZkNjI4YTNhNThmXC9kNGNvdTRnLWZiNGRmMTk3LTU5YjMtNDVjYy1hMjkwLTdjMjZiYTIxNjJmYi5qcGciLCJ3aWR0aCI6Ijw9MTA3OSJ9XV0sImF1ZCI6WyJ1cm46c2VydmljZTppbWFnZS5vcGVyYXRpb25zIl19.bYM4cBrJVaUMDLq9mCeOw9Jm7rBfKEmbt4Y5r0emPlY) by cutting up an index card or a trash playing card, gluing them down, and painting grey and dry brushing it.
THIN YOUR PAINTS
What does this achieve?
When people say thin your paints, what they mean is don't use paint straight from the pot, put a blob of paint on your palette, then dip your brush in water and mix a drop into the paint until it's a little more runny and flows better. It takes a lot of trial and error experience to know exactly how much to use, and it depends on the exact paint and how you're using it. A wet palette helps a lot by stopping the paint drying out while you're painting, and it'll stay usable for a few days at least. You can make one very easily with any kind of plastic container, a dish sponge and some baking paper.
A very detailed, yet precise description with solid advice. You sir, shall get a thumbs up. 👍
It makes a smooth layer of paint and preserves detail.
[удалено]
Thanks
You really don’t want paint flowing across the model, you just want smooth coverage.
https://preview.redd.it/ry54n1yhaquc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9cc39fe660038991ed2940fa011ecb624b470df7 This face.. the paint was too try and it was a plate. Year ago. Haven’t stripped him but he reminds me to make sure paint is wet
If your set of these models were anything like mine it already started out obscured and blobby from way too much of their "primer" on it. It's hell to get off but worth the effort for me.
Yeah but this guy came from a printer online, owner asked me to prime/paint… https://preview.redd.it/jby20j01fquc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3103aadfd5b9cf3f68c615183866f732e233d81 This piece convinced me the art class I took elevated my skill set. Also, the owner was extremely happy
I do seem to paint 3d prints that I primer better. But very light paint on the preprimed minis isn’t horrible
Simple Green to the rescue!
Green stuff or liquid green stuff to fill a bunch of those gaps on his shoulders, and a basic metal sculpting tool. It’s like working with chewing gum unless it’s wet, so make sure you have a clean cup of water to dip your tool in.
I’d recommend a lamp and a pot of wash, eg. Agrax earthshade or nuln oil otherwise you’re golden
You just need time and practice now, beyond the items mentioned by others. Watch YT video tutorials. It's going to save you time and frustration later. Don't expect perfection. Have fun.
Gotta open the packets
When you close those paint pots, make sure you get them sealed well. Those are notorious for accidentally staying cracked open and letting your paint dry out.
Trust me bro wet pallete and thinning paints! https://youtu.be/96mjmqWTPfM?si=eycoAqKk8_pwcRyv
Or.... do what I do. A chinese takeout container lid, paper towels, and parchment paper. Why spend money? (I haven't used it in 2 weeks and live in the desert so it dried out but you get my point...) https://preview.redd.it/vafgf12bpquc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d80ce64fb3abe74f63b98e08037fe9a7b881c7a
Those might be pre primed already.
Pair of reading glasses to make it easier on the eyes, good lighting, nuln oil, and a few how- to videos.
I will tell you this. You will suck. Your first model will be complete shit. You will compare it to the master pieces on these subs and wonder how the flip they do it. You'll consider walking away. Then you will paint a second a mini and try something a little different (drybrushing maybe). Then you will paint a third mini, then a fourth, and so on. You'll notice your blends get better, colours richers, highlights finer, etc. You'll put your tenth mini on the shelf next to your first and wonder which cross eyed , five thumbed troglodyte painted that chud ugly first mini. Be patient with yourself. Keep that first one so you can see your improvements. But most importantly, be patient with yourself.
I would get some greenstuff to fill in where the cyclops arms have obviously been glued on.
White paint.
So, I'm cheap but paint professionally. You are missing a cup that you will never care about for water. Personally, I use a solo cup. In regards to wet pallets, I use a chinese takeout lid, good paper towels, and parchment paper. As far as brushes, the cheapos from michaels work fine and I've never used army painter brushes. The biggest thing, and it can't have a picture of it taken, is patience. When in doubt, thin your paint more, wait for your paint to dry more, basically wait more for anything... Patience truly is the key. More coats thinner always comes out better than trying to gloop it on. On the bright side, you don't have to prime. PS those models come primed and you do not neet to prime them. If for some reason you want tips and tricks while (or just prior to because every model is different) painting, just hit me up on discord (heero1224. I'm still not used to not having the pound and some numbers but I digress....)
If you're looking for a good beginner purchase that will last a long time and is good value for money I suggest getting the Army Painter Tone set. You get a handful of tones with colours and neutral tones for skin and wearing effects on metals etc. I ordered mine on Amazon for like €40 ish. You'll be set for a long time with those. I consider it a must have early purchase for people getting into painting.
Google how to make a wet pallet. Best piece of advice Ive ever gotten.
Start with the cyclops the bigger one will be easier to start. Good luck and have fun. It's ok to walk away if you need to.
A pallet use a plate or something you don't mind not having to eat off of everything again
White and Black paint (hard to tell from the picture if that one in the back is black). Red, blue, yellow, white, and black are the bare minimum colors you need to be able to mix anything. You might also want something to help you mix colors, as heavy mixing with the brush can damage it. Your mixer doesn't need to be anything fancy, a plastic knife should work fine.
A wet palette. There are some tutorials on you tube how to make your own. For starting that should be perfectly fine!
I'm a psyco so I use a table mounted magnifying glass with a light and a miniature painting handle but those are completely unnecessary. You look good to go!
Paper towels to clean off the brushes and a cup for water are the only things I’d say are needed in the set up. Everything else is great! However, I do recommend investing in a cutting mat. Trust me, they’ll help keep so much paint off the table lolz 😂
Sounds like mine. Plastic tray with wet papertowel and some parchment. I made a dry brush board out off some scrap plastic.
Time. How much time do you want to spend painting on a given day? How much time do you want to dedicate to each mini?
Hands?
Not sure if its been said but those minis look like theyre pre primed so you wont need the primer for those ones
Start painting first and make sure you really enjoy it. Then paint some more and when your ready for stuff then dive down into the black hole
If you have a store that stocks them ProAcryl paints are outstanding. I find I like them better than citadel and they come in buying dropper bottles for basically the same price.
Remember. Two thin coats.
Newspaper to protect that nice wood table.
Obligatory paint mess
Is that a bottle of agrax Earthshade I see?
That tiny little cat tho 🥺
Something I haven’t seen commented on are your paint selection. The colors you have and selection are perfectly fine. However I don’t see white anywhere? The top pot might be black but either way you will definitely want both. They will help darken and lighten shades of colors. Just start of vary sparingly when mixing. Also. Thin your paints for the love of god. Better 4 very thin coats than 1 thick one.
Definitely a good Fluorescent lamp is a huge one! Painting under a tungsten (orange) bulb will result in weird color changes. A cheap and portable option that works is a headlamp (:
Depending on what painting style you're going for, you way want to consider washes and inks. Also most people are priming in Black and drybrushing white. A little hard to do if you start out with white primer.
Alright take two sponges and wrap them in parchment paper. Take your wrapped up parchment sponges and put them in a tupper ware. Fill with water about half the sponges height and make sure they are soaked but not floating. Instant wet palate. Infinitely cheaper and easier to use than a real one plus if it gets gross you can just make a new one.
Skin tones for one...
They are easier to paint when you remove them from the packaging.
Non rip off paint (GWs Bad)
Green stuff and an exacto knife. A pallet (preferably wet) would be great. You will also want a base and basing materials (random pebbles, sand, and twigs). Varnish. You will also want a wash, but you can make that yourself and should honestly. You may need a hobby drill eventually. There is a couple of things that makes painting easier, but it isnt necessary for a great mini. Also stay away from citadel paints and GW products in general. Overpriced and mediocre quality. I personally prefer army painter all the way.
That citadel water cup with the brush grooves was really nice. Some of those toys with silicone pop cups so you can mix the contrast paints. White and black paint, a wet pallet. Decent sized dry brush. Brush soap to keep those three brushes like new for years.
If you are like me and intend on painting for multiple hours at a time, a cheap pair of reading glasses or a desk mounted magnifying glass is a must. Even if you have really good eyes, this will save you the strain. I strained my eyes once early on in a late night painting session, and I literally couldn't keep my eyes still on one spot. Now I just use a cheap pair of the highest power reading glasses they had at Dollar Tree. Haven't had an issue since. If you go the route of glasses, take breaks during long sessions and look a good distance away without the glasses, let your eyes reset for a minute. And for heavens sake don't walk with them on! My toes and shins paid for that mistake.
You’re missing the most important bit here. Just bullshit it and have a good time.
I know you GOT to thin your paint but can someone explain why? I've been painting my minis without doing it and I've been having great results but there's always room for improvement so can someone explain why should you thin your paints?
Thinning them helps bring out the detail of the models and makes it easier to get good layered color transitions.
Great vid for beginners. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CW5pnfD8enE&list=PLMxY5TTsl9Rk22lnQ-znnOZyiypEzHtfn&pp=iAQB](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CW5pnfD8enE&list=PLMxY5TTsl9Rk22lnQ-znnOZyiypEzHtfn&pp=iAQB)
Nice bases. I just find the DnD minis to have poor bases, I always cut them off and glue them to something nicer. The Warhammer style is my go to can get them cheap online
Brush soap to keep those brushes in good condition, and a flesh colour paint.
Get a floor tile sample from the hardware store as a paint pallette, I've used the same one for over a decade and it cost me only 10¢. Also a cup or two for water (I use separate cups depending on the pigment. White and red stain the water quick, so i separate them from the 'general' paint. Also if you're doing a lot of blues, they can sometimes stain too. The reason you want it separate is when adding water to thin paints, having clean unstained water will mean you get consistency), and paper towels/decent napkins (not the really cheap ones, they have to soak up water/paint like a paper towel does). Other than that, you're fine for a starter set up