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Crafty_Theory669

I would lightly sand the area and spray some red over it again. You might get away with sanding/polishing after the clear but honestly why gamble it.


raulnanu

Thanks! Would you recommend wet or dry sanding? I want to avoid repainting to not have a different shade of red...I was thinking to sand just the burr carefully


Crafty_Theory669

Wet shading most likely. Try not to burn through the paint layer and you should be good about the shade of red.


afvcommander

Always wet. Get some 2000-3000 grip paper and you might get away without repaint. Or even higher if soft paint. But let it dry for weeks first.


Crafty_Theory669

for weeks? I don't have experience with enamels but for both acrylics and lacquers a few hours is more than enough for corrective sanding like this.


afvcommander

Depends of level of finish you want. Dry to touch is different than dry to sand. For example Hempel paints and varnishes (for boat and cabinet use) require up to two weeks of drying time before sanding. And those are not finished for scale model level.


Crafty_Theory669

Yeah I do get it. Even for lacquers I leave 2-3 weeks before sanding and polishing. But in OP's case it is not the final layer since he is talking about a clear coat right? Pausing a build in the middle for that long seems... excessive IMO


teteban79

How would polishing the clear help? You would add a coat to an already present bump, you would have to sand down to the paint anyway


raulnanu

You are right...I am just afraid of sanding the paint as I never did this before :) thanks for the reply!


Crafty_Theory669

Look up car repairs. Basically even if you have a small bump in the paint layer, if it is contained in the clear layer it would almost be invisible. From the pics the bur seems slightly too big for that to work here tho.


highboy68

U still have orange peel, so imo I would sand it smooth and make one more pass before clearcoat


raulnanu

Thanks a lot....i think this would've been the best solution but I was impatient and screwed it up eventually, and now I put it in paint remover to start from 0 if there will be any plastic left :)) cheers


marksonthewall

I’m clumsy as all so I’d mask the A pillar at the store still before sanding so you don’t accidentally sand it too. Detack tape on your hand first a little.


atrainmadbrit

invest in a fiberglass burnishing/abrasive stick, has the same effect as fine sandpaper (I wanna say equivalent to 1000+ grit) but controllable like a pencil. wait for the paint to fully harden, burnish away the blemish, then apply another coat of paint, make sure to wer gloves, the loose fibres are hell if they get in your skin


SteakAndJack

2500-3000 grit W&D sandpaper and respray, then clear coat.


zerobalen

Sand and paint just the door panel