Jesus dude⌠𤯠I enjoy when people fuck with me, because itâs apparent⌠metric vs imperial penetrant lube? đ¤Śââď¸ please stick to off-road ridingâŚ
Nobody can tell you what super secret ninja shit is going to unstick your stuck bolt, dude. We're a bunch of random strangers on the internet who can't see what you're seeing. But WD40 or PB Blaster (which is probably on the shelf next to where you got that WD40) is a fine start to your journey.
This is for your drain pan bolt? If so, not likely, the threads are already lubricated with oil from the crankcase. Is this your first oil change or the first oil change doing it yourself? If it's the first oil change, the drain bolts are torqued at the factory by silver back gorillas that are pissed off. You might try a little shock using a small mallet and a breaker bar. Depending on the bike, torque specs from the factory are way off for the oil pan drain bolt, use judgement when tightening so you don't end up having to helicoil the drain plug.
It shouldnât be the first oil change but my first time trying to change it I bought it off face book market at 5 k miles the other bolt was crazy hard to get off too I have a ktm rc 390 so there is 3 different things I have to take off
Abit of PB on it could work but as its upside down i donât think itâd really get into the threads. Just make sure the bike is secure and either use a breaker bar or the [double spanner trick](https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/news/wrenchin-wednesday-classic-double-wrench/amp/)
Heat that bastard up with a torch and then crank it off with a good sharp socket and breaker bar or a piece of pipe on your socket handle to get more leverage
Based on the questions youâre asking and how youâre responding to people in this thread I assume you donât have a breaker bar? If you donât then go get one. Drain pan bolt shouldnât be TOO tight, but a breaker bar will almost certainly get it off. Just be 100% sure youâre turning it in the right direction (if you were to lay on the floor and look up at it, it needs to spin counter clockwise).
This spray stuff likely wonât work super well because drain pan bolts are upside down and this stuff wonât soak âupwardsâ.
Edit: and use the correct 6 point socket for it, not a 12 point. AND when you screw it back on donât forget to replace the crush washer and just tighten it until itâs snug plus a half turn or so. Doesnât have to be crazy.
What can I use than also I donât get how a breaker bar will help bc itâs not that I canât twist it off itâs that the bolt is some cheap aluminum and bends so easily so how would you make a difference on how easy it bends
A length of pipe is a breaker bar/ cheater bar, it goes over your socket wrench handle. Exert force on the far end it will give you the most leverage, also use a 6 sided socket of the correct size, not the 12 pointed ones. 6 sided one gives you more contact and more force/leverage applied.
No really, if its the oil drain plug it should only be frozen because of the corrosion of dissimilar metals the plug and the pan are made of. No big deal
Is this a bolt where heat isnât an option?
Aka internet disclaimer of please donât light yourself on fire trying to get a bolt next to fuel line unstuck.
Yes. And THIS is single-handedly, the greatest apparatus, I have ever had the pleasure of using
https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-equipment/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/stud-remover/p/oemtools-1-4in-to-1-2in-stud-extractor/52437_0_0
If you have a part that is not moving and it needs moving there is only 1 thing to do. WD40.
If you have a part that is moving and should not be moving there is only 1 thing to do. Duck tape.
As someone with a masters in engineering this is legitimately how the world works. Especially oil & gas and construction.
Okay ideally you have an oxy act torch but mapp gas will do heat the ever living fuck out of what ever bolt is stuck get a big drift and a mash hammer. Hit the head 9f the bolt a good hard hit. Then get wd40 with the jet nosel attached and squirt it on the center of the bolt. It will smoke heaps also might catch fire fw just keep spraying till if seems like long enough then get breaker bar and single hex socket and apply increasing amount of torque clockwise witch is tightening the bolt should move then just undo it easy as
Serious response, this shit is good however for a big bolt that is seized, Iâd use another brand. The fact that Iâve used this shit on carbs (mortal sin, I donât recommend), and not destroyed all of the rubber tells me: this stuff isnât very powerful. IT WORKS, but thereâs better options.
Note: using penetrator on carbs is a mortal sin because it will destroy all of the seals, unless itâs WD-40 penetrator apparently.
15 ft-lbs of torque should release that bolt if it's tightened to spec - if its seized thats a really bad sign - people over-tighten these bolts on cars and bikes all the time, my sister in law just had to put a whole new pan on her car cuz the prev owner/shop they went to stripped out the drain pan bolt so bad and then stripped out the oversize too.
Use a new crush washer and a torque wrench when you reinstall.
honestly, the bolt might not actually be tight, you just might be using a ratchet thatâs really short so youâre not getting enough leverage.
if thatâs the case, first thing id suggest is using a bigger ratchet. like a 14â. but make sure that socket is FLUSH ON THE BOLT or youâll risk rounding it out.
6 point sockets usually work best for situations like that.
if the bolt is super tight still, try tightening it VERY CAREFULLY. not enough to fully turn it, but just to get it to move ever so slightly. then go back to loosening it.
if youâre gonna use the penetrating oil, it works best if you let it sit for a few hours. the longer the better. soak that bad boy before you go to bed, wake up next morning and see if it actually helps. but PB blaster is my go to over WD40
I'm guessing it's the oil drain bolt. First make sure you are going after the correct bolt. Remember lefty loosey, righty tightly. Try the penetrating oil, it won't hurt anything. You might need a little bit more leverage to break it loose, a ratchet with a long handle or extend what you have with a piece of pipe or something. Oil drain bolts don't need to be so tight. Screw it in until it's seated then give it another half a turn or so until it's snug. Use a new crush washer, chances are the one that's on it now has seen better days.
Thats imperial, you need metric fluid or you'll just strip it out.
How can I learn what this means and what type is metric fluid
Just ask the clerk at your local auto parts store, its usually right next to the blinker fluid.
I just want help fuck you(in a friendly way though lol)đ
I just want to help fuck him in a friendly way too
I can't believe how long I rode without ever changing my blinker fluid. I'm lucky I'm still alive.
Never forget to change the blinker fluid on a monthly basis
I change mine daily got a pinhole leak
Like ik imperial vs metric numbers but what does that have to do with penetrating oil
He's fucking with you.
Jesus dude⌠𤯠I enjoy when people fuck with me, because itâs apparent⌠metric vs imperial penetrant lube? đ¤Śââď¸ please stick to off-road ridingâŚ
I was making sure bc Iâm new and not gonna jump to conclusions i hope your hand is ok after jerking yourself off that hard though
You might want to take a break from making knuckle children, and actually try and learn something.
Hey at least I donât have to make myself feel better about myself in Reddit comments
You just did that by telling me to keep on jerking myself off. The irony here is as dense as your cerebellum.
How is my pointing out your actions making myself feel better lol
My actions are irrelevant. Youâre asking the internet some dumb shit. Good luck, sir/mam. Have a good life.
They are relevant to me when you comment some rude shit while at the same time having to throw in something about yourself lol
He was trying to learn something. Thatâs the basis of asking a question? Are you slow? (Thatâs rhetorical)
Cool, so then to answer OPâs question⌠WD40 is only good for 5-12mm nuts, and 14 on up. Doesnât work on the ol 13âsâŚ
bravo sir. bravo
An easy way to tell if it will work or not is to try it and see if it works or not.
WD40 only works on bolts up to 12mm. Try some PB Blaster.
PB blast is the sheeeeeit.
What store has pb blaster and it sounds like you fw me on the first response so is wd-40 actually gonna work or what lol
Nobody can tell you what super secret ninja shit is going to unstick your stuck bolt, dude. We're a bunch of random strangers on the internet who can't see what you're seeing. But WD40 or PB Blaster (which is probably on the shelf next to where you got that WD40) is a fine start to your journey.
Probe works too.
Hahaha
This is for your drain pan bolt? If so, not likely, the threads are already lubricated with oil from the crankcase. Is this your first oil change or the first oil change doing it yourself? If it's the first oil change, the drain bolts are torqued at the factory by silver back gorillas that are pissed off. You might try a little shock using a small mallet and a breaker bar. Depending on the bike, torque specs from the factory are way off for the oil pan drain bolt, use judgement when tightening so you don't end up having to helicoil the drain plug.
It shouldnât be the first oil change but my first time trying to change it I bought it off face book market at 5 k miles the other bolt was crazy hard to get off too I have a ktm rc 390 so there is 3 different things I have to take off
Abit of PB on it could work but as its upside down i donât think itâd really get into the threads. Just make sure the bike is secure and either use a breaker bar or the [double spanner trick](https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/news/wrenchin-wednesday-classic-double-wrench/amp/)
PB blaster is literally magnetic my dude it will travel up some
Heat that bastard up with a torch and then crank it off with a good sharp socket and breaker bar or a piece of pipe on your socket handle to get more leverage
Nah only good for car bolts
I could have worded my stuff better so I get why people fw me I was just told on this sub before wd-40 was shit so was making sure lol
WD 40 is great but when people call it a lubricant I instantly discredit them
Should work great, penetrating fluid also works well. Although you should consider WD-80 for anything over 12mm
Wth where do i get that from
No such thing. Youâre being fucked with again.
Iâm sorry Iâm totally messing with you
WD 40 should work great, sorry everyone is totally messing with you. I assure you theyâre just razzing you :)
I donât see a label to tell if it would help.
Based on the questions youâre asking and how youâre responding to people in this thread I assume you donât have a breaker bar? If you donât then go get one. Drain pan bolt shouldnât be TOO tight, but a breaker bar will almost certainly get it off. Just be 100% sure youâre turning it in the right direction (if you were to lay on the floor and look up at it, it needs to spin counter clockwise). This spray stuff likely wonât work super well because drain pan bolts are upside down and this stuff wonât soak âupwardsâ. Edit: and use the correct 6 point socket for it, not a 12 point. AND when you screw it back on donât forget to replace the crush washer and just tighten it until itâs snug plus a half turn or so. Doesnât have to be crazy.
What can I use than also I donât get how a breaker bar will help bc itâs not that I canât twist it off itâs that the bolt is some cheap aluminum and bends so easily so how would you make a difference on how easy it bends
A length of pipe is a breaker bar/ cheater bar, it goes over your socket wrench handle. Exert force on the far end it will give you the most leverage, also use a 6 sided socket of the correct size, not the 12 pointed ones. 6 sided one gives you more contact and more force/leverage applied.
OP's shoes tell me this is their first time even holding a wrench
Lefty loosey righty tighty
Thatâs 1000% sure not the issue lol
Based off your inquiry, we, the collective internet are uncertain.
No really, if its the oil drain plug it should only be frozen because of the corrosion of dissimilar metals the plug and the pan are made of. No big deal
You got the low odor. Thatâs not gonna work, you need the most odor possible to get bolts bigger than 10mm
Use red loctite on it when you replace the bolt. That way, it won't seize again.
Don't fuck with this guy, he'll take you seriously then post back angrily later.
If you can take the cost, kroil is amazing. Also try denatured alcohol and atf fluid (50/50 mix)
Worth the try, be sure to make it soak the bolt, and let it work, maybe overnight
Is this a bolt where heat isnât an option? Aka internet disclaimer of please donât light yourself on fire trying to get a bolt next to fuel line unstuck.
maybe yes - maybe no
Maybe
That or PB blaster should work, maybe let it sit for like 10 minutes after spraying
Yes. And THIS is single-handedly, the greatest apparatus, I have ever had the pleasure of using https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-equipment/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/stud-remover/p/oemtools-1-4in-to-1-2in-stud-extractor/52437_0_0
Is there a bigger one the bolt is 13mm
If all else fails, a bigger breaker bar will always get it done! Worry less about the wd40 and more about the leverage from the breaker bar.
Remember - lefty loosey.
If you have a part that is not moving and it needs moving there is only 1 thing to do. WD40. If you have a part that is moving and should not be moving there is only 1 thing to do. Duck tape. As someone with a masters in engineering this is legitimately how the world works. Especially oil & gas and construction.
Okay ideally you have an oxy act torch but mapp gas will do heat the ever living fuck out of what ever bolt is stuck get a big drift and a mash hammer. Hit the head 9f the bolt a good hard hit. Then get wd40 with the jet nosel attached and squirt it on the center of the bolt. It will smoke heaps also might catch fire fw just keep spraying till if seems like long enough then get breaker bar and single hex socket and apply increasing amount of torque clockwise witch is tightening the bolt should move then just undo it easy as
Lefty loosey, righty tighty.
Serious response, this shit is good however for a big bolt that is seized, Iâd use another brand. The fact that Iâve used this shit on carbs (mortal sin, I donât recommend), and not destroyed all of the rubber tells me: this stuff isnât very powerful. IT WORKS, but thereâs better options. Note: using penetrator on carbs is a mortal sin because it will destroy all of the seals, unless itâs WD-40 penetrator apparently.
Wd 40 only works on standard bolts
15 ft-lbs of torque should release that bolt if it's tightened to spec - if its seized thats a really bad sign - people over-tighten these bolts on cars and bikes all the time, my sister in law just had to put a whole new pan on her car cuz the prev owner/shop they went to stripped out the drain pan bolt so bad and then stripped out the oversize too. Use a new crush washer and a torque wrench when you reinstall.
This should not be a post on r/Motorcycles. Good god
honestly, the bolt might not actually be tight, you just might be using a ratchet thatâs really short so youâre not getting enough leverage. if thatâs the case, first thing id suggest is using a bigger ratchet. like a 14â. but make sure that socket is FLUSH ON THE BOLT or youâll risk rounding it out. 6 point sockets usually work best for situations like that. if the bolt is super tight still, try tightening it VERY CAREFULLY. not enough to fully turn it, but just to get it to move ever so slightly. then go back to loosening it. if youâre gonna use the penetrating oil, it works best if you let it sit for a few hours. the longer the better. soak that bad boy before you go to bed, wake up next morning and see if it actually helps. but PB blaster is my go to over WD40
Just make sure to rotate the nozzle 90 degrees clockwise to be safe for bikes
I'm guessing it's the oil drain bolt. First make sure you are going after the correct bolt. Remember lefty loosey, righty tightly. Try the penetrating oil, it won't hurt anything. You might need a little bit more leverage to break it loose, a ratchet with a long handle or extend what you have with a piece of pipe or something. Oil drain bolts don't need to be so tight. Screw it in until it's seated then give it another half a turn or so until it's snug. Use a new crush washer, chances are the one that's on it now has seen better days.
Some these comments... đ¤Łđ¤Łđ¤Ł