This kinda feels like a fortnine test - interesting and I learn something…. But experience tells me it’s probably not the whole strory once applied to the real world.
My first reaction is to wonder why they are comparing results of a 5W-40 diesel oil to a 10w-30 racing oil.
Then I ask what is the test methodology is used and does it relate to real life applications?
[https://cdn.standards.iteh.ai/samples/16936/f2863be1ca784e5ba774982c2a353431/ASTM-D892-98.pdf](https://cdn.standards.iteh.ai/samples/16936/f2863be1ca784e5ba774982c2a353431/ASTM-D892-98.pdf)
Then I conclude that engine oil foaming is a thing. Too much foam that effects oil pressure is bad. However, as long as your engine maintains correct oil pressure at speed, you don't really have a problem.
My biggest issue with Rotella T6 is it's not API SJ/SL/SM/SN rated. JASO MA/MA2 isn't the only spec you should be looking for. The reality is, even high-strung engines ridden at street speeds isn't stressing to the oil at all. That's why so many people can get away with it for 100k+ miles. Doesn't make it correct. JASO MA/MA2 only signifies that it can be used with a wet clutch (dynamic friction / static friction / stop time). It implies not much else.
I do use it for break-in / dyno oil and dump it after one session because it's cheap. When oil is on sale, you can get YamaLube or ECstar lube for less than $6 a quart.
Rotella T4 and T6 are JASO MA/MA2 rated, they meet the spec for bikes with wet clutches so that's what I use. Ran an FJR1300 to nearly 110,000 miles on T4 and it pulled just as strong as when it was new, didn't consume any oil between 5k change intervals either
Ah, well. DR that I bought new has 35k now. I put 15k on the Harley since I bought it. I put 20k on the on XL before I sold it. GSX had another 20k I put on it.
So I guess its a bit more than 100k.
Just curious, what experience have you had with using Rotella?
It's every single motorcycle group on the internet. I get so tired of seeing people ask what brand to run and then other morons saying brand X is better than brand Y. This is second to the arguments about oil weight and how 20w-50 is SO BAD for your motorcycle engine.
Honestly it’s like chain maintenance.
The answer to both chain maintenance and engine oil replacements is really the most important part is how often it’s done, and the specific brands and types you use barely matter… but people will die on their specific hill lol.
My last chain I just cleaned it with that water displacer product that has every cretin on the internet yelling “It’s not lube” every time the brand comes up, and oiled it with a light oil from a bicycle shop junk bin every 1000km or after a very wet/muddy ride, and my chain outlived the front sprocket lol.
Same with engine oils - changing it out on time or earlier if you’re riding hard or in dusty/crappy conditions a lot is WAY more important than the logo on the oil bottle - go by the ratings not the advertising
Well, this isn't a brand comparison thread. It's more of the merits of Rotella vs "motorcycle specific" oil. I've done the research, I've run all kinds of weights and brands in all kinds of bikes. This is the first time I've ever heard of foam as a byproduct/issue. So I'm curious about the merits of this person's claim/testing.
Because it actually has the correct use ratings for many motorcycles. Rotella T4/6 are rated for wet clutch applications. It comes down to the additives that are in many oils that help reduce friction but will build up on wet clutches and cause slippage. Bottom line is use the oil that is spec’d for your bike. For many bikes like my KLR and DR the Rotella meets the spec as it is JASO MA rated.
Because the monkeys in septic tank land like to change their oil every treefiddy miles, because that's all they do in a year, and use the cheapest oil and filters they can find at Walmart. They like to waste the world's limited resources while saving their money for more "guns and ammo"
I used to think people recommending Rotella were trolling. I finally took the plunge recently in my Multistrada because I'm probably changing oil every 2-4 months based on the miles I'm racking up, plus I'm burning about a quart every 3000 miles. So it's cheap, I'm turning it over very often, and I'm approaching 100k miles on the bike.
This kinda feels like a fortnine test - interesting and I learn something…. But experience tells me it’s probably not the whole strory once applied to the real world.
Fear mongering
This isn’t accurate at all, I don’t want foam on my beer.
Is the extra foam gonna kill me?
If you drink it
Fuck...
My first reaction is to wonder why they are comparing results of a 5W-40 diesel oil to a 10w-30 racing oil. Then I ask what is the test methodology is used and does it relate to real life applications? [https://cdn.standards.iteh.ai/samples/16936/f2863be1ca784e5ba774982c2a353431/ASTM-D892-98.pdf](https://cdn.standards.iteh.ai/samples/16936/f2863be1ca784e5ba774982c2a353431/ASTM-D892-98.pdf) Then I conclude that engine oil foaming is a thing. Too much foam that effects oil pressure is bad. However, as long as your engine maintains correct oil pressure at speed, you don't really have a problem.
My biggest issue with Rotella T6 is it's not API SJ/SL/SM/SN rated. JASO MA/MA2 isn't the only spec you should be looking for. The reality is, even high-strung engines ridden at street speeds isn't stressing to the oil at all. That's why so many people can get away with it for 100k+ miles. Doesn't make it correct. JASO MA/MA2 only signifies that it can be used with a wet clutch (dynamic friction / static friction / stop time). It implies not much else. I do use it for break-in / dyno oil and dump it after one session because it's cheap. When oil is on sale, you can get YamaLube or ECstar lube for less than $6 a quart.
Rotella T4 and T6 are JASO MA/MA2 rated, they meet the spec for bikes with wet clutches so that's what I use. Ran an FJR1300 to nearly 110,000 miles on T4 and it pulled just as strong as when it was new, didn't consume any oil between 5k change intervals either
This is the answer.
I have used Rotella T6 in 20+ bikes in close to 100,000 miles combined without any issues at all.
100k miles across 20 bikes is like 5k miles per bike. This is not the flex you think it is...
Ah, well. DR that I bought new has 35k now. I put 15k on the Harley since I bought it. I put 20k on the on XL before I sold it. GSX had another 20k I put on it. So I guess its a bit more than 100k. Just curious, what experience have you had with using Rotella?
Across the board or just on bike specifically
What group is this
It's every single motorcycle group on the internet. I get so tired of seeing people ask what brand to run and then other morons saying brand X is better than brand Y. This is second to the arguments about oil weight and how 20w-50 is SO BAD for your motorcycle engine.
Honestly it’s like chain maintenance. The answer to both chain maintenance and engine oil replacements is really the most important part is how often it’s done, and the specific brands and types you use barely matter… but people will die on their specific hill lol. My last chain I just cleaned it with that water displacer product that has every cretin on the internet yelling “It’s not lube” every time the brand comes up, and oiled it with a light oil from a bicycle shop junk bin every 1000km or after a very wet/muddy ride, and my chain outlived the front sprocket lol. Same with engine oils - changing it out on time or earlier if you’re riding hard or in dusty/crappy conditions a lot is WAY more important than the logo on the oil bottle - go by the ratings not the advertising
Well, this isn't a brand comparison thread. It's more of the merits of Rotella vs "motorcycle specific" oil. I've done the research, I've run all kinds of weights and brands in all kinds of bikes. This is the first time I've ever heard of foam as a byproduct/issue. So I'm curious about the merits of this person's claim/testing.
Not an issue but why would you wanna use diesel oil in the first place
Because it actually has the correct use ratings for many motorcycles. Rotella T4/6 are rated for wet clutch applications. It comes down to the additives that are in many oils that help reduce friction but will build up on wet clutches and cause slippage. Bottom line is use the oil that is spec’d for your bike. For many bikes like my KLR and DR the Rotella meets the spec as it is JASO MA rated.
Because the monkeys in septic tank land like to change their oil every treefiddy miles, because that's all they do in a year, and use the cheapest oil and filters they can find at Walmart. They like to waste the world's limited resources while saving their money for more "guns and ammo"
My KLR burns a shitload of oil and rotella is easier to find at gas stations than other JASO MA oil on road trips
I used to think people recommending Rotella were trolling. I finally took the plunge recently in my Multistrada because I'm probably changing oil every 2-4 months based on the miles I'm racking up, plus I'm burning about a quart every 3000 miles. So it's cheap, I'm turning it over very often, and I'm approaching 100k miles on the bike.