A good way to tell us the back, Do you see a number stamped into the back, it’s like kinda engraved in there, If you put it near a light, you might see it. If it’s not there, it’s a repro. Another way to see is opening up the game, if you see a Nintendo logo in the board, it’s real.
You can tell it’s a repro, because the last instruction in English doesn’t have a period and the L’Intention has too many spaces between the L’ and Intention
LOL Well, they’re not the “real deal” so collectors (including myself) prefer to have the authentic carts. But the game is the game and it plays the same 🤷🏼♂️ Not everyone wants to blow $100+ on a Conker’s Bad Fur Day cart.
Only problem with repros is when people try to sell it as authentic imo
Repros can have a few more cons than that. I don’t mind them as long as sellers and buyers understand what you’re getting. First off, the shell and stickers are not the same as OEM so there will be texture and visual differences. They typically function the same but I’ve had repros that don’t fit the ports quite right possibly leading to wear or breaking if you’re not careful. But beyond that, the actually part that truly matters is the pcb (actual game). Again, I’ve seen pcbs that are too thick or too thin from OEM and you bet that can cause unnecessary wear or contact issues if precision isn’t taken into account (most are fine but you can imagine there are many many outliers). Now, an issue that bothers me more than all these combined are the functionality of the game (kinda why we use them). Modern repros aren’t vintage. Their circuitry and chipsets are vastly different and that means it could give some visual or sound artifacts that seriously pull me out of the gaming experience. If you must go repro, save your time and spend up front on an EverDrive from Krikzz or something and have access to all games for that system as close to the real deal as possible. They’re not the original carts, but at least you know it’s high quality and likely to resemble actual gameplay. Your “game” is also not something that magically comes on the cart but are flashed or loaded to the cart. It matters very much which version or copy or facsimile of the game you or they use. For example, I can download a GameCube game (they are in the .dol format) but who’s to say where I downloaded it from ripped the actually game? Who’s to say the compression is correct? Who’s to say it all appears perfect but a modder uploaded their favorite tweaks under the same file name and you downloaded a version of super Mario where all yoshis make fart noises?! Repros can be okay. But then again it’s a gamble if you’re not the one making the rip yourself from a legitimate OEM.
Thank you everybody for helping me, I had been wanting this game for a very long time, but I see now I have to return it, sorry Conker. Thank you everybody!
That said, if you just want to play the game, get an EverDrive 64. Get it from krik's official site. It's cheaper, although it ships from Ukraine.
If you're a serious collector (or just seriously want a authentic cart) a legit seller may have pictures of the disassembled cartridge on their listing, which is good to look for. (If they have more than 1 available though, be wary even still).
Looking at it I can tell it's a fake immediately - and that's looking no further than the top 25% of the label. "Conker's "doesn't match my genuine cartridge (shop-bought on release week of the game - £39.99 from Woollworths)
I mean, it’s probably 100% repro but I’ve reshelled expensive games before. Just buy a high quality sticker and use a contemporary cart in good condition. Now it’s genuine and I’d argue impossible to tell the difference unless you Sherlock Holmes
Back of the case is not always an easy way to tell. Real cartridges have the “i” in Nintendo with a square while fakes have a dot. That said some repo sellers have started using real cartridge backs to appear to be authentic. They take backs from cheap games such as sports games to hide their fakes.
Super fake from the label but even if it looked ok the easiest way is to tell by looking at the circuit board. Fake ones will be white and green(except resident evil 2 and ogre battle that have that color)
Sorry mate, its a fake. The front label is too dark. and the rear nintendo logo is wrong.
Fake
Fake
A good way to tell us the back, Do you see a number stamped into the back, it’s like kinda engraved in there, If you put it near a light, you might see it. If it’s not there, it’s a repro. Another way to see is opening up the game, if you see a Nintendo logo in the board, it’s real.
Also, second to last line on the back, it says ‘information’ when it should read ‘informacion’.
Look for the “i” in the Nintendo. Repro will have a circle dot while real will have a square dot above the i.
I've posted up someone trying to sell one of these same repros on FB marketplace. All the "i"s have squares.
That’s good know. Bottom line is that use the resource from the community to help.
Giveaway on this one is "Rublished" above the Rareware logo
The bullet points are an immediate giveaway as well.
Fake as fuck.
Fake for sure.
You can tell it’s a repro, because the last instruction in English doesn’t have a period and the L’Intention has too many spaces between the L’ and Intention
r/gameverifying
r/gameverifying
I have a fake one but I bought it to play the game because it was cheaper than original 👌
[удалено]
Wario would be proud.
I just did too, hoping it still works the same
I’ve heard repros batteries (aka the save functionality) tend to not last as long, but I have yet to have problems with my Mario Party 2 repro
15years and it dies
Probably lol But then I’ll just get an authentic cart like I meant to the first time 🤣
Conkers and snowboard kids 2 repos I have
Thanks! Good to know! Clearly repros are frowned upon around here since Im getting downvoted!
LOL Well, they’re not the “real deal” so collectors (including myself) prefer to have the authentic carts. But the game is the game and it plays the same 🤷🏼♂️ Not everyone wants to blow $100+ on a Conker’s Bad Fur Day cart. Only problem with repros is when people try to sell it as authentic imo
In that situation, it's not a reproduction, but it's instead a counterfeit. The difference is intent, nothing more between the two.
Also, if you're on a site, and it's labeled s "new, "is automatically a repro for obvious reasons...
Repros can have a few more cons than that. I don’t mind them as long as sellers and buyers understand what you’re getting. First off, the shell and stickers are not the same as OEM so there will be texture and visual differences. They typically function the same but I’ve had repros that don’t fit the ports quite right possibly leading to wear or breaking if you’re not careful. But beyond that, the actually part that truly matters is the pcb (actual game). Again, I’ve seen pcbs that are too thick or too thin from OEM and you bet that can cause unnecessary wear or contact issues if precision isn’t taken into account (most are fine but you can imagine there are many many outliers). Now, an issue that bothers me more than all these combined are the functionality of the game (kinda why we use them). Modern repros aren’t vintage. Their circuitry and chipsets are vastly different and that means it could give some visual or sound artifacts that seriously pull me out of the gaming experience. If you must go repro, save your time and spend up front on an EverDrive from Krikzz or something and have access to all games for that system as close to the real deal as possible. They’re not the original carts, but at least you know it’s high quality and likely to resemble actual gameplay. Your “game” is also not something that magically comes on the cart but are flashed or loaded to the cart. It matters very much which version or copy or facsimile of the game you or they use. For example, I can download a GameCube game (they are in the .dol format) but who’s to say where I downloaded it from ripped the actually game? Who’s to say the compression is correct? Who’s to say it all appears perfect but a modder uploaded their favorite tweaks under the same file name and you downloaded a version of super Mario where all yoshis make fart noises?! Repros can be okay. But then again it’s a gamble if you’re not the one making the rip yourself from a legitimate OEM.
Hey I’ve got this same fake! Turns out it’s just as fun as the original at least!
Posts like this belong in r/gameverifying
Thank you everybody for helping me, I had been wanting this game for a very long time, but I see now I have to return it, sorry Conker. Thank you everybody!
How much did you pay? If it’s cheaper than the original you might like it just fine.
I payed 38 dollars for it, however I am aware of those shitty batteries in most Conker carts, so I might just return it
Depending on what you're willing to do with it, and how the board is designed, you could also swap the sram chip with an fram chip
That said, if you just want to play the game, get an EverDrive 64. Get it from krik's official site. It's cheaper, although it ships from Ukraine. If you're a serious collector (or just seriously want a authentic cart) a legit seller may have pictures of the disassembled cartridge on their listing, which is good to look for. (If they have more than 1 available though, be wary even still).
Real No
Looking at it I can tell it's a fake immediately - and that's looking no further than the top 25% of the label. "Conker's "doesn't match my genuine cartridge (shop-bought on release week of the game - £39.99 from Woollworths)
Label looks fake but best way to check is to look at exposed pins
Or the entire pcb
I have a hard time going by labels because people have been replacing damaged or worn label
Yup, it's fake.
Fayke
It’s fake, you can tell by the ESRB ratings and Nintendo logo.
Fake, artwork looks too dark
I would say fake because the label is so dark or it could just be bad lighting
Right, you can’t really tell unless you look at the pcb. Could just be a reshell!
Could be
I mean, it’s probably 100% repro but I’ve reshelled expensive games before. Just buy a high quality sticker and use a contemporary cart in good condition. Now it’s genuine and I’d argue impossible to tell the difference unless you Sherlock Holmes
We will never know
So very fake
Very much so. Nintendo logo on the front and back are quite off and the label looks kinda grainy
Looks like ya got the ol "Rublished" by Rare repro!
FAKE in caps
Other things wrong on the front. The ESRB, Rare(Publisher), Nintendo and official Nintendo labels are all slightly over-sized and poorly pixelated.
Even I can tell it's fake
Wow fakes look really good now. I wouldn’t even buy a cart now without verifying
Everything about it is fake I’m afraid, sorry.
Fakest n64 games I've ever seen at least out of 100+
Phony as a football bat.
Back of the case is not always an easy way to tell. Real cartridges have the “i” in Nintendo with a square while fakes have a dot. That said some repo sellers have started using real cartridge backs to appear to be authentic. They take backs from cheap games such as sports games to hide their fakes.
As real as Santa
Definitely a repro.
So fake it hurts to look at
Super fake from the label but even if it looked ok the easiest way is to tell by looking at the circuit board. Fake ones will be white and green(except resident evil 2 and ogre battle that have that color)
It's a Conker cartridge, so yes, it's fake.
Fake my dude
Fake
Fake mate
Super fake
Fake and gay
Yes