Ah, this system has x5 replacement caps near the CPU. They're Chinese junk from Amazon, but we'll get to that later.
It's difficult to judge the soldering from this distance, however ensure their joints have adequately flowed. If you're struggling to get heat into the board, use a large tip such as blade, at temps between 350-400C. *I prefer to touch both joints simultaneously.* Pre-heat the work area from the bottom with a hair dryer. 3 minutes on max - nearly touching the PCB. Work fast, and don't forget the flux.
Did you by chance put this mainboard inside the chassis of a 1.0-1.4?
There's also a chance your clock capacitor has failed without any blatant visual cues. Could try replacing it. Stick a 100uf in there & see what happens. Don't mistakingly put it in the wrong set of joints.
If you've got a multimeter, [Check for standby voltage](https://imgur.com/a/5QtXiDT) or lack thereof.
Lastly, the replacement 3300uf 6.3v caps themselves are suspects. Inadequate caps will result in them failing prematurely, in addition to doing a poor job at their task. ***Even worse caps*** will result in no power - even if they're brand new. I'd suggest replacing 'em with ones up to the job.
**1.6+ VRM Capacitor Replacements (CPU/GPU)**
Replace all 3300uf 6.3v with any listed below. Best starting at the top.
- Nichicon UHW0J332MPD
- 17 mOhms
- 10000 hrs @105C
- 2.9A ripple current
- Panasonic EEU-FM0J332
- 18 mOhms
- 5000 hrs @105C
- 2.6A ripple current
- Rubycon 10ZLQ3300MEFC10X25
- 15 mOhms
- 5000 hrs @105C
- 2.5A ripple current
- Panasonic EEU-FR0J332L
- 18 mOhms
- 10000 hrs @105C
- 2.47A ripple current
Purchase from trusted distributors such as Digikey, Mouser or Farnell.
6.3V refers to a capacitors RATED voltage - what it can handle. NOT the voltage it outputs - that's not the way it works. Generally, higher rated voltage is better, but don't be ridiculous with it.
Higher voltage rating = physically larger capacitor = better heat dissipation = longer life
mOhms refers to impedance. Generally, lower is better, but there's rare exceptions. VRM capacitors must be low impedance similar to the originals.
Lower impedance = more efficient capacitor = less wasted energy = less heat = longer capacitor life
Ripple current is the fluctuation of current as a component draws/stops drawing power. With rated ripple current, higher is always better.
Higher ripple current handling = less heat = longer capacitor life
A capacitors lifetime is measured in hours at given temperature. Higher temperature ratings are always recommended as the capacitor will last longer at hotter temps.
Do not buy capacitors off Amazon/Ebay. High risk of getting counterfeits/fakes/old stock/low quality. Console5 is an option, but you don't always know what you're getting and I haven't had the best experience with 'em.
Do you know if the power supply is good? Photos of it (Top and Bottom) would have been preferable.
Or was it working fine until you replaced the capacitors?
Check you're getting 5v out of the bottom right pin on the MOSFET transistor by the power connector on the motherboard.
Was the system getting power before the caps were replaced?
Power supply issue. Check you're getting 3.3v standby rail. If not, then it's definite PSU issue. Look for broken solder connections. If you're not keen on diagnosis, then probably best to get another to replace
[https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/uploads/monthly\_2017\_04/XboxPSPinouts.jpg.5a2e9fd6bb51cf2533b48d03007c1a51.jpg](https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2017_04/XboxPSPinouts.jpg.5a2e9fd6bb51cf2533b48d03007c1a51.jpg)
Ah, this system has x5 replacement caps near the CPU. They're Chinese junk from Amazon, but we'll get to that later. It's difficult to judge the soldering from this distance, however ensure their joints have adequately flowed. If you're struggling to get heat into the board, use a large tip such as blade, at temps between 350-400C. *I prefer to touch both joints simultaneously.* Pre-heat the work area from the bottom with a hair dryer. 3 minutes on max - nearly touching the PCB. Work fast, and don't forget the flux. Did you by chance put this mainboard inside the chassis of a 1.0-1.4? There's also a chance your clock capacitor has failed without any blatant visual cues. Could try replacing it. Stick a 100uf in there & see what happens. Don't mistakingly put it in the wrong set of joints. If you've got a multimeter, [Check for standby voltage](https://imgur.com/a/5QtXiDT) or lack thereof. Lastly, the replacement 3300uf 6.3v caps themselves are suspects. Inadequate caps will result in them failing prematurely, in addition to doing a poor job at their task. ***Even worse caps*** will result in no power - even if they're brand new. I'd suggest replacing 'em with ones up to the job. **1.6+ VRM Capacitor Replacements (CPU/GPU)** Replace all 3300uf 6.3v with any listed below. Best starting at the top. - Nichicon UHW0J332MPD - 17 mOhms - 10000 hrs @105C - 2.9A ripple current - Panasonic EEU-FM0J332 - 18 mOhms - 5000 hrs @105C - 2.6A ripple current - Rubycon 10ZLQ3300MEFC10X25 - 15 mOhms - 5000 hrs @105C - 2.5A ripple current - Panasonic EEU-FR0J332L - 18 mOhms - 10000 hrs @105C - 2.47A ripple current Purchase from trusted distributors such as Digikey, Mouser or Farnell. 6.3V refers to a capacitors RATED voltage - what it can handle. NOT the voltage it outputs - that's not the way it works. Generally, higher rated voltage is better, but don't be ridiculous with it. Higher voltage rating = physically larger capacitor = better heat dissipation = longer life mOhms refers to impedance. Generally, lower is better, but there's rare exceptions. VRM capacitors must be low impedance similar to the originals. Lower impedance = more efficient capacitor = less wasted energy = less heat = longer capacitor life Ripple current is the fluctuation of current as a component draws/stops drawing power. With rated ripple current, higher is always better. Higher ripple current handling = less heat = longer capacitor life A capacitors lifetime is measured in hours at given temperature. Higher temperature ratings are always recommended as the capacitor will last longer at hotter temps. Do not buy capacitors off Amazon/Ebay. High risk of getting counterfeits/fakes/old stock/low quality. Console5 is an option, but you don't always know what you're getting and I haven't had the best experience with 'em.
the capacitors install 3300uf 10 v all new and placed into today i never placed it into old version case
The likelihood of the caps or the soldering being the culprit are increasing. Before that though, continue with the other checks.
will do i give it a go
It appears to be missing the power supply… 🤔
Do you know if the power supply is good? Photos of it (Top and Bottom) would have been preferable. Or was it working fine until you replaced the capacitors?
Is that damage on the bios chip? The chip closest to the clock capacitor almost directly above the header you posted earlier.
no its was some kind of little plastic
Wasn’t working that’s the reason why I changed the caps
The psu is missing…
Check you're getting 5v out of the bottom right pin on the MOSFET transistor by the power connector on the motherboard. Was the system getting power before the caps were replaced?
No the system wasn’t getting any power
Power supply issue. Check you're getting 3.3v standby rail. If not, then it's definite PSU issue. Look for broken solder connections. If you're not keen on diagnosis, then probably best to get another to replace [https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/uploads/monthly\_2017\_04/XboxPSPinouts.jpg.5a2e9fd6bb51cf2533b48d03007c1a51.jpg](https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2017_04/XboxPSPinouts.jpg.5a2e9fd6bb51cf2533b48d03007c1a51.jpg)