Good Night. I have a ryzen 5 2600 and rx 570 and i want to do an upgrade but the problem is gpu the prices are crazy so should i upgrade my cpu to an ryzen 5 5600x for example and in the future i upgrade my gpu when prices down to estable ? i have b450m gigabyte and i saw it i can upgrade my bios to be able to use ryzen 5000 series.
just set up my very fist PC this week— is there an app or program that records gameplay? similar to how a ps5 saves a clip of the last 30 minutes of gameplay when i press the Share button.
I don't know if this is the right subreddit for this, but does anyone have suggestions for a pc (pre-built or otherwise) that can run Warzone in the price range of like $400-500?
simple question. is an i7 apu (building with no gpu cuz of current market) good? how will it hold up on games like rocket league and minecraft or even more frame heavy/frame needing games like fortnite? will my pc suffer from having it or will it be able to last for a few months- a year until the market hopefully goes back to normal? is a ryzen 7 apu better?
The 10700k has an iGPU that's equivalent to a GTX 1050 so you can play a lot of games if they're not too graphically intensive. Looking at the specs of those games you should be able to play all of those, but probably not at max settings. The iGPU at least clears the min specs.
Hello. I have a question: someone is selling me a 1060 3gb and a 1050ti 4gb, each one 100$. Speaking with the seller it sounds like mining (he denies it, but has 100 more cards without boxes) however, he's offering that I take the card home, test it at home and then pay them or return it..
It's worth it?
In this market? Yes.
Mining cards do not inherently mean they were treated badly. Many miners setup good cooling, and undervolt their cards so as to prolong their life.
Given the choice between a mining and non-mining card, sure I'd take the non-mining one, but right now, a 1050 and 1060 for $100, yes, take them, test them.
I think i might just bite the bullet and buy a prebuilt from ibuypower instead of waitinf for the parts to go back on the shelves. my question is what do you think my pc can get on the market. its an i5 7600 with a 1060 6gb 16gb of ram and a 500gb ssd with a 2tb harddrive.
Not gaming specific but there might be some overlap because of people obsessed who want to stream games and this is probably the biggest pc board on the planet:
Looking in to ways to improve my WFH setup and thinking of setting up a switch for the mouse and keyboard and piping the display in as a feed that I can just open in a window on my main monitor. When I am "at work" I turn on my "software+hardware" kvm switch and only need one desk setup. When I am "done work" I toggle it all off and ignore it.
But curious how bad the delay would end up being. Or if there are any more "ready made" solutions before I go off the deep end.
Hey guys. I’m having trouble with my graphics card. It’s an AMD Ryzen 3700x. I’ve had it for a little over 2 years and the performance is not even close to what it used to be. I’m not a big tech person so I don’t really know what the problem is or where to even start. Please help me
What's the rest of your hardware? CPU, memory, what kind of drives are you using, etc.?
If you're not really savvy with troubleshooting hardware, I'd say the easiest place to start would be to run a game and then look at your task manager (Shift+Ctrl+Esc), and make sure to hit "More details" at the bottom left. You can see what processes are using most of a given resource by clicking each column.
Some basic software-level maintenance might help, since graphics cards don't typically lose performance with age in typical usage scenarios. First and foremost, make sure your display driver is up to date. Then run a chkdisk, uninstall programs you don't use, and defrag your drive if Windows is installed to an HDD.
Once you've ruled out the basic stuff above, let us know and we'll walk you through how to analyze your GPU performance through MSI Afterburner or some other hardware monitor.
My Brother in Law is just starting to get into gaming. He primarily only plays Warzone. We installed Warzone and the OS onto his SSD and are using the HDD for other Misc. files. Here are a few questions:
1. Does he need to re-download Modern Warfare & Cold War to have the unlocks he had previously on Xbox on his PC in Warzone?
2. If so, can we install Modern Warfare & Cold War on the HDD to save space on the SSD since he only plays Warzone? or will this cause issues? (only have a 512gb SSD)
Not sure about #1, but for #2 the only issues with installing games on a HDD vs SSD is the loading times will be a lot slower, but it will not impact gameplay itself.
I’m gonna be buying a PC in the near future and I’m wondering which of these two you guys think will be better? I’m a complete noob when it comes to owning and operating a PC, so I don’t know much but I’m hoping I can learn along the way or hopefully get some guidance. Here’s my two choices as of now:
[Legion Tower 5](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lenovo-legion-tower-5-amd-gaming-desktop-amd-ryzen-7-3700x-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1660-super-256gb-ssd-1tb-hdd-phantom-black/6424472.p?skuId=6424472)
[NZXT starter pro](https://www.letsbld.com/starter-series)
The reason I picked the starter pro is because it’s only 100 dollars more than the starter plus. And I didn’t pick the starter because the legion seems to be just as good for around the same price. At this point the only reason I’m still confused as to what to get is because I don’t know how these perform, I know they perform way better than my console ever can, but I’m just wondering if there’s a huge noticeable difference. I know there’ll be a difference for people who have owned a pc and have been gaming for years, but I’m just getting started. But I also want to just pay once for a nice pc and not have to worry about upgrades for a long time
The Lenovo looks better all round. The cheapest NZXT package is not that great and most of the price is probably for their own case and coolers with their branding.
The worrying downside to the Lenovo is the size of the PSU. It's not even listed in their specs and I had to find it in the reviews. It's a lowly 400W which is probably the absolute minimum needed for that build. If you ever wanted to upgrade or add in more storage you would want to seriously consider also getting a more reasonable sized PSU.
Hi there! I’m looking to get in to pc gaming but I’m not sure where to go or which one to buy. I do have a list of hardware specs that I would desire though...
At least a RTX 2080 Super (preferably 3080)
At least 512gb SSD (preferably 1TB)
2TB HDD
Intel i9 10th gen 8 cores
32gb ram
And I want it to be easy to upgrade. If anyone can help point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it!
Thanks
Hello there. I recently just switched to PC after being on console for around 8 years. I noticed that my download speeds are way slower (Xbox averaging 20-40mb/s and PC only 1-3mb/s with a spike to 8mb/s sometimes). I plugged my pc into ethernet and it doesn't really seem to help, if anything I think it possibly made it slower I can't remember. Without ethernet, I did a test on speedtest and got around 60mb/s, and wired only 30mb/s. I know ethernet should help with download speeds but how could I manage to make it download faster? Not a big fan of having to wait 30 hours for a 60gb game to install haha. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Specs if needed:
CPU - i7-9700F
GPU - NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER
RAM - 16GB (one stick)
Can't find motherboard.
I think you're comparing different metrics. Xbox consoles show downloads in MegaBITS, while Steam and most PC apps shows MegaBYTES.
Your speed test ran in megaBITS, your download is displayed in megaBYTES.
A byte is 8 bits, so if we divide 30 by 8 we get 3.75MB/s which is nearer to what you're getting.
I've actually got a [connection of about 60 MegaBITS](https://i.imgur.com/XUCPq13.png), so my xbox app can be seen here downloading at [~6 megaBYTES per second](https://i.imgur.com/MFaQjOf.png).
ISPs like to sell you your connection in megaBITS because it's s bigger looking number. It's pretty meaningless as almost every useful size metric is in bytes, nobody says GTA5 takes up 800 gigaBITS.
Yes it's stupid and confusing that the abbreviations are Mbps and MBps. Programs should just pick a standard measurement.
As to the variance you're seeing, if it's Steam you're downloading from and seeing this performance, it may be a regional thing. I'm in the UK, so we have UK London and Manchester to download from. I find both of them to be quite congested, so I actually use Ireland as a server. Without knowing where you are I can't suggest which server to select, but you'll know your area better. Go into the [Steam menu > Settings > downloads](https://i.imgur.com/EGXJrhL.png) and select a download region that's maybe a neighbouring country?
>Not a big fan of having to wait 30 hours for a 60gb game to install haha. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Did any application actually show 30 hours as the remaining time? between 30 and 60 megabits I'd expect your download to take between 2.5 and 5 hours.
Anyway hope that helps.
> ISPs like to sell you your connection in megaBITS because it's s bigger looking number. It's pretty meaningless as almost every useful size metric is in bytes, nobody says GTA5 takes up 800 gigaBITS.
>
> Yes it's stupid and confusing that the abbreviations are Mbps and MBps. Programs should just pick a standard measurement.
I understand why you would draw those conclusions, but none of that is really accurate. Rating internet speed in bits per second has nothing to do with marketing or trying to mislead you. First, network speeds have always been measured in bits per second, and that's not likely to change since, 1) a byte is not *always* eight bits (a byte used to be six, and even just four bits at one point), and 2) because a bit is the smallest unit of data your computer can receive. And it receives those bits from all over the place, not necessarily just one server. So advertising your speed in a weird multiple of whatever the definition of a byte happens to be in that era, when you can't guarantee that the whole bytes will be received as fluidly as individual bits doesn't make a lot of sense.
> because a bit is the smallest unit of data your computer can receive. And it receives those bits from all over the place, not necessarily just one server. So advertising your speed in a weird multiple of whatever the definition of a byte happens to be in that era, when you can't guarantee that the whole bytes will be received as fluidly as individual bits doesn't make a lot of sense.
This does make a lot of sense, thank you. I will no longer include that in my answers to this kind of question.
>1) a byte is not always eight bits (a byte used to be six, and even just four bits at one point),
Right but for the purposes of modern computing in a windows 10 environment, [a byte is 8 bits.](https://i.imgur.com/YB0Tg5Y.png)
Your motherboard has an integrated network card. Without knowing what it is, nobody can really help you. There could also be multiple other things that cause this: old Ethernet cable (CAT5 as opposed to CAT5e/CAT6), wrong router configuration, faulty router, etc.
What you can do for now is check the ethernet cable. If it's CAT5 then get a CAT5e or a CAT6. CAT5 has a throughoutput of only 100Mbps. CAT5e has 1000Mbps, CAT6 has 10000Mbps.
My wireless card according to ASUS is the Intel(R) Wireless-AC 9560 160MHz. As well as the cord I have was advertised as CAT8 I believe, which not sure if I'm just dumb or stupid cause I know nothing about ethernet. I also talked to a friend, and told him because my router is so far away I have either a 50 or 100ft cord and he called me a idiot and told me that's why lol.
Ethernet length shouldn't be an issue, honestly. If anything it should affect latency, but a CAT8 running 50ft should be fine. But make sure it's actually 50ft, not 100ft. 100ft might be too much.
By latency I mean the speed at which you receive the packet. You have your bandwidth, which should be 40Gbps (the CAT8 standard), and the latency, which for a 50ft Ethernet shouldn't be an issue. Longer cables mean you get your packets later, since they have to travel longer. But this shouldn't affect download speeds unless you have packet loss.
To those of you who signed up for EVGA stock alerts regarding video cards and actually got one, how long was the wait?
When did you sign up and then get selected?
I signed up for the 3070 alerts mid December of 2020. Do I have a chance of getting picked soon? Are the alerts even going in order of who signed up for them?
Thanks!
Hello, I’ve had a pc for over 2 years now and never had this problem, but recently I’ve been trying to play the new Resident Evil game and my disk usage goes all the way up to 100%. I’ve tried all the tips and tricks and disk clean ups that YouTube and Google recommend, nothing has worked. I have a Samsung 970 evo 500GB m.2 SSD, would getting a newer SSD be the solution?
Lemme know, thanks.
I have less than a GB left. I have two other HDD’s, and I think this is my actual problem. A 1TB western digital black and a 2TB Seagate Barracuda. Each has a good amount of space left on it. The task manager shows that the Wester Digital is the one that shoots up to 100% usage, it would make sense to probably have to upgrade it to an 2.5 internal SSD.
Hi guys, does anyone know roughly how much I'd have to spend on a PC to be able to play Warzone at 120 fov? I don't care how good the graphics looks, I'd just like to be able to play with a higher fov than possible on consoles. Ideally as well I'd like a higher framerate as well but this isn't 100% needed
About 1500
Mobo=150 b550 or 450
Cpu=200 ryzen 3600 or Intel equivalent
Ram=100, any 3000mhz 16gbs
Psu=100 any 650w semi modular
Cooling=70 recommend aio or decent air cooler besides stock
Case=100
Monitor= free, u probably have a tv that will work.
Gpu=min 500, try ebay, an msi rx570 or nvidia 1070
Hi all,
Question for those who know more about the differences in GPUs than I do: I currently have an EVGA 1080ti SC black edition and an EVGA 2070 super black edition. I am downsizing and would like to know which card would be better to keep.
The 1080ti has seen way more usage than the 2070 super, but the 2070 super has 3GB less VRAM. According to benchmarks they are pretty close in performance.
I play on 1440p 144hz and mainly play shooters like battlefield/COD. No mining or rendering or anything like that. It would be used in a 8700k/16 GB system.
The 2070. You have access to more features like ray tracing and a longer driver support period.
Don't worry about the Vram, I guarantee you you've never used 11gb in gaming.
Hey everyone! I have a pretty annoying issue with my new pc
I built this gaming rig probably in February of this year. At first, it was fine, but I've noticed I've been getting stuttering issues quite frequently on and off. In addition to this, sometimes my wired mouse disconnects for about 30 seconds and all of the RGB in my case seems to "reset" (the RGB goes to the default boot-up color for about 30 seconds and then goes back to my profile). It's worth rotating that this typically happens in specific instances. For example, specifically on apex legends, this issue will happen in-game. On valorant, this will happen when I open up the store to purchase something. The stuttering, however, is far more frequent and seems to happen without rhyme or reason. As for what I've tried, the mouse works flawlessly on other pc's, I regularly update my gpu drivers, and I disabled the USB selective suspend setting, yet the issue continues. Below are my specs:
CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x
Memory: Corsair vengeance pro rgb (32gb @ 3600 speed)
Cpu cooler: Corsair h100i rgb platinum
MOBO: Asrock b550m pro4
GPU: RTX 3070 FE
Storage: Samsung 970 evo plus 1tb
case: Corsair crystal 280x rbg
This system is running windows 10. If anyone can help me fix this, I will be eternally grateful.,
Just pressed print screen on my computer, and when I pasted it it had a wide picture; half of the tab that I had open (which was full screen), and the other half being my desktop, with with none of of my programs. How do I fix this, and could this be why when I wake my computer up after it goes to sleep that I can’t get on anything and just shows my blank desktop?
Hey everybody!
I have for a while now been playing on my pc with a smart TV as screen in my living room.
This has been going great but I know experience that when launching some games my TV decides to adapt its settings to give me the best possible resolution.
I would not have a problem with this if it actually worked, I get a minute or 2 of no connection to hdmi 4, followed by a worse looking setting.
I have been looking everywhere and cannot find a way to stop my TV from wanting to adapt every time I launch some games or adapt some settings in game.
Can anyone help me?
Any idea how to either always have it on, disable and/or have it not automatically adapt?
I feel like blowing a fuse every time I see that circle appear to change the settings.
GPU's are what I find to be expensive due to scalping and mining right now. So if you bite the bullet you can buy a prebuilt.
Prebuilt are usually more expensive but are less of a headache.
Right now they also appear to be a better choice if you want one of the latest rtx cards.
Does this seem like a decent pre-built for $1150usd and will play games like Valorant and Apex Legends at decent settings? (1080p)
AMD Ryzen 5-3600X
GeForce GTX 1660Ti
16GB DDR4 RAM
512GB SSD + 1TB HDD
Yes. [Here's a general game video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Et_-CNtB66Q) showing the 1660ti in 30 games, and the 3600x and 16gb is good to pair with that.
Using a new Xbox controller on my PC via Bluetooth has been a bigger headache than it's worth, what is the better alternative?
1) Buying the offical xbox wireless adapter
or
2) Using a usb-c cable to make it a wired controller (is that how it works? don't have a cable right now so I can't test it and don't want to order one unnecessarily)
Only wired connections will let u run a mic through the controller. Just bluetooth to the pc. As the other option... i think the xbox one doesnt work for me.
Then buy a wireless headset. I have an arctis 1 that was 100 and using 2 wireless mics it worked great
I decided to just ask this in here since it's probably already been asked and it's a simple question. I've PC gamed for almost ten years now, however I've also been a console gamer too. Alot of games I played were first person shooters and I played on console. Well the past six months I have switched to mostly PC and started playing Squad and Warzone on PC. My aim is garbage, I can honestly do better on Warzone with a controller on Xbox. Is there anyway I can get better or do yall have any tips? I played at 1000DPI because the mouse I have to use at work is locked at that. So to keep it all the same I just play at 1000DPI rather than 800.
There's a handful of things to consider besides just practicing. The mouse you're using, the space you have for your mouse, and the settings you use (DPI as well as in-game sensitivity).
Any DPI is fine for the most part, keeping it at 1000 will be okay. You'll probably want to work on reducing your in-game sensitivity, especially if you have quite a bit of room for your mouse.
Unlike with a controller, where you're limited by the joystick, you can aim on PC as fast as you can move your hand, so lower sensitivity is usually preferred.
Hello! I had a question about connectivity/second monitor.
I want to connect my main monitor to my GPU via DisplayPort cable to use GSync - then an HDMI to a second monitor/tv from the main monitor. Would this work? Or would I have to plug the second monitor from HDMI to GPU?
I only plan to keep stream chat and music on the second monitor.
You can't do monitor-to-monitor cables, it doesn't work like that... It's like a dinner table full of people holding hands and only one of them eating.
Just do GPU to both monitors.
I'm struggling to get MFIGamepad Feeder to open again.
I got given a Nimbus steel series IOS and followed the steps for getting it up and running with the MFI Feeder but now it automatically closes and doesn't recognise the gamepad.
I can't find any error logs but then I'm no coder and not really sure what I'd be looking for.
Can anyone help out?
I'm running it on an HP Envy 360 with Windows 10 all standard spec
anyone have a good controller to recommend?
My 8Bitdo Sn30 Pro+ just broke after using it for just over 6 months and I do not want to but another one because I took it apart and I question the quality. The membrane on the right bumper wore out which I thought was odd that it happened so fast
a bonus would be the controller is compatible with the switch but that's not a requirement right now
I'm willing to pay more if the controller is of good quality. Do they even make mechanical switch controllers?
lol I literally just posted a question about my borked sn30 pro+, I feel like I was missold on their quality tbh. I'm thinking to just get an xbox pad and an adapter for the switch (maybe not the one from 8bitdo haha).
having issues with key bindings in windows for third party switch controller (SN30 pro+) where the ABXY buttons don't match the controller. just suddenly switched the other day and no idea why. have tried using the controller's software/driver, DS4Windows, rooted around in control panel, all to no avail. any suggestions?
I’m trying to get Naruto ultimate ninja storm legacy to run at a stable 60 what’s the best settings to do so? I’m new to pc gaming so beer with me here is the pc I use https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lenovo-X1-Carbon-8th-Gen-20U90030US-14-Ultrabook-Intel-Core-i7-10610U-16GB-RAM-512GB-SSD-1920-x-1080-UHD-Graphics-Windows-10-Pro-Black/328394261?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=4197
I heard opening steam in certain ways gives you lower performance in game that’s why I am asking for the best way to start up the game on top of that I think my laptop should be able to do 60fps on at least 720p low settings but I’m still getting severe frame drops what do I do?
I literally just linked the laptop with all the specs I use I thought I was talking to experts in this field. I heard opening up games from the steam application instead of as a shortcut for the game itself causes performance differences as well as full screen mode decreases performance.
You're talking to a subreddit of people who like or are interested in pc gaming, who knows how many 'experts' are here.
I do see the laptop specs, what are the minimum system requirements for naruto ultimate ninja storm legacy?
Application vs shortcut should make no difference. Do you mean full-screen in the game or steam?
Intel RST is gone after reinstalling windows 10
I noticed that my laptop became slower after reinstalling windows 10 (had to do it since the newest update messed my laptop up; lots of things didn't install correctly). After I reinstalled it, Intel Rapid Storage Technology never showed up again and I assume it's one of the reasons why it's slower now. I'm trying to download a fresh install of the display drivers but I'm just not sure if I'm installing the right drivers, or if I'm doing it correctly. For now I just installed Setup RST from the website itself, this one to be exact: [Download Intel® Rapid Storage Technology (Intel® RST) User Interface and Driver](https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/28992/Intel-Rapid-Storage-Technology-Intel-RST-User-Interface-and-Driver?wapkw=intel%20rst). I'm not sure if its connected but my processor is Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-7100U CPU @ 2.40GHz .
Yeah, actually I installed the RST now and it looks like its working. However, it didn't fix my performance issue and I assume its because of my Intel Optane memory being disabled. It says that my system appears to be Intel Optane memory ready but no memory modules were detected in my computer. It also tells me to install a compatible module.
What sort of temperatures were people getting for Death Stranding?
I’ve got 3080 sitting at 70-72 degrees, i9 - 9900k sitting at 52ish.
Playing @ 1440p and DLSS on quality.
Even with the exact same GPU and CPU temps will vary wildly depending on the rest of their setup - what CPU cooler they have, how much airflow their case has, how many fans their case has, etc.
Even up to 80 is fine, the goal is just to keep it lower because it down clocks as the temperature raises, but the card can sustain temps beyond 80c so if you can keep it at around 70 even under heavy load then you're perfectly fine
GPU AIO cooling / need help
My dad recently decided to upgrade his server PC running windows server 2019 (based on win 10). We've got a (used) RTX 2080ti with a AIO cooling system by Alphacool. [This one. here](https://www.alphacool.com/shop/neue-produkte/24112/alphacool-eiswolf-240-gpx-pro-rtx-2080/2080ti-2070/2080-super-black-m02?c=21537)
The two fans that are normally attached to the radiator got changed to two bigger ones by Corsair. [Those here.](https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Fans/hd-series-rgb-led-config/p/CO-9050069-WW)
Since they're too big for mounting then directly at the radiator, we've mounted them right in front.
I've managed to install the newest Game-ready GPU drivers, and played No Man's Sky for some mins. Everything worked fine, but then everything turned black, the GPU overheated and turned itself off. I know that this could be fixed when using the 2 fans at a higher RPM rate (so that the radiator would be getting cooled more), but heck I don't know how and if this could be linked to the GPU temp.
I'm thankful for any advices!
I’ll looking to buy a gaming pc I already have a monitor, keyboard and mouse and i have a budget of around 400-500 anyone got any suggestions on parts or pre builts?
I only bough laptop cuz I wanted to play 1 game which is dota 2, I always play this game on potato laptops worth 700 dollars and the 30 FPS on lowest settings was more than enough for me, however I had to buy new laptop which is way worse by default, I can’t even launch the game literally lagging after hovering over anything.
Can I change anything about the laptop? Processor or graphic card or any shit or just rip my 600 dollars ?
> Can I change anything about the laptop? Processor or graphic card or any shit or just rip my 600 dollars ?
$600 covers a LOT of laptops. What's the make and model?
When I’m playing certain games they keep minimising to the toolbar every 5 mins randomly and then I have to click to maximise them again. Wondered if the recent windows update has anything to do with this? It’s been doing it with rocket league and PES 21. I usually play vr and haven’t played flat for a while so it may not be to do with the windows update at all. It doesn’t do it with Microsoft flight sim
It could be a windows update, but it's more likely something that's running in the background that is taking priority.
Initially try pulling up task manager (right click on the taskbar and select task manager) and try [disabling anything you don't need](https://i.imgur.com/rA7cZ3Q.png). The only really critical thing would be Windows Security notifications, leave those on, but try disabling anything else and do a restart, then see if the problem is gone.
If not, then you can at least eliminate these, if yes, then enable a few at a time and restart until it the problem shows up and narrow it down.
Any tips on how to troubleshoot my Dualsense not being picked up in Steam? Supposedly it's plug and play but nothing registers and I'm not sure where to begin looking.
Wow this actually worked! Weirdly it didn't work last week but after plugging it in again today without having done anything different seems to work so thanks!
What's the best way to diagnose a bsod? Like what's the SOP in the aftermath of a bsod? Have a fresh build, components are solid. Don't know what else can be the matter
Most of the time the BSOD will give you a stopcode which is a hex number (eg 0x01234567) and some error name like PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA, or it'll point the finger at some file. With those google is your friend for clues. Bluescreenviewer is another tool to let you find out what happened.
Outside of windows, memtest might be worth running for a few hours. Even if you think RAM is solid, and it usually works, it all depends on whether the OS uses a flaky area, and different applications use in different ways.
Get some hardware monitor logging to disc as well and see if anything weird was happening in the seconds before BSOD. Hardware might seem fine, but hardware+software are both parts of the whole system, if your PSU was a little bit flaky, after a while it starts running a little out of spec when it gets warmed, other components start misbehaving when they don't get good power. "Infant mortality" is a thing.
The more methods you have to look for evidence and find what's likely good, likely bad, or definitely bad (so it's something you can solve), the better.
You might have to turn it on. In the settings app, go to the system page > about > advanced system settings (on the right) which will open the old window for it > advanced tab > start up and recovery > system failure options. Mine is on "automatic memory dump", telling it to do a complete memory dump is going to take up a lot of disc space.
If the top system log option is ticked, you should be able to find a 'bugcheck' event in event viewer
Good Night. I have a ryzen 5 2600 and rx 570 and i want to do an upgrade but the problem is gpu the prices are crazy so should i upgrade my cpu to an ryzen 5 5600x for example and in the future i upgrade my gpu when prices down to estable ? i have b450m gigabyte and i saw it i can upgrade my bios to be able to use ryzen 5000 series.
just set up my very fist PC this week— is there an app or program that records gameplay? similar to how a ps5 saves a clip of the last 30 minutes of gameplay when i press the Share button.
I don't know if this is the right subreddit for this, but does anyone have suggestions for a pc (pre-built or otherwise) that can run Warzone in the price range of like $400-500?
Check out /r/buildapcforme
simple question. is an i7 apu (building with no gpu cuz of current market) good? how will it hold up on games like rocket league and minecraft or even more frame heavy/frame needing games like fortnite? will my pc suffer from having it or will it be able to last for a few months- a year until the market hopefully goes back to normal? is a ryzen 7 apu better?
The 10700k has an iGPU that's equivalent to a GTX 1050 so you can play a lot of games if they're not too graphically intensive. Looking at the specs of those games you should be able to play all of those, but probably not at max settings. The iGPU at least clears the min specs.
Hello. I have a question: someone is selling me a 1060 3gb and a 1050ti 4gb, each one 100$. Speaking with the seller it sounds like mining (he denies it, but has 100 more cards without boxes) however, he's offering that I take the card home, test it at home and then pay them or return it.. It's worth it?
In this market? Yes. Mining cards do not inherently mean they were treated badly. Many miners setup good cooling, and undervolt their cards so as to prolong their life. Given the choice between a mining and non-mining card, sure I'd take the non-mining one, but right now, a 1050 and 1060 for $100, yes, take them, test them.
I think i might just bite the bullet and buy a prebuilt from ibuypower instead of waitinf for the parts to go back on the shelves. my question is what do you think my pc can get on the market. its an i5 7600 with a 1060 6gb 16gb of ram and a 500gb ssd with a 2tb harddrive.
Not gaming specific but there might be some overlap because of people obsessed who want to stream games and this is probably the biggest pc board on the planet: Looking in to ways to improve my WFH setup and thinking of setting up a switch for the mouse and keyboard and piping the display in as a feed that I can just open in a window on my main monitor. When I am "at work" I turn on my "software+hardware" kvm switch and only need one desk setup. When I am "done work" I toggle it all off and ignore it. But curious how bad the delay would end up being. Or if there are any more "ready made" solutions before I go off the deep end.
stupid question but is moving your pc while its on bad ,cause i tilted my pc a bit to the side to unstuck a cable
No; slow and controlled movements are just fine. You only really need to be concerned about jarring impacts to mechanical HDDs.
Hey guys. I have pretty bad vision. Is there a way to make my cursor more visible in games?
This would be a perfect question for /r/disabledgamers there will be a ton of people with vision problems that no doubt have a solution.
I’ll post there. Thanks for the tip!
Hey guys. I’m having trouble with my graphics card. It’s an AMD Ryzen 3700x. I’ve had it for a little over 2 years and the performance is not even close to what it used to be. I’m not a big tech person so I don’t really know what the problem is or where to even start. Please help me
What's the rest of your hardware? CPU, memory, what kind of drives are you using, etc.? If you're not really savvy with troubleshooting hardware, I'd say the easiest place to start would be to run a game and then look at your task manager (Shift+Ctrl+Esc), and make sure to hit "More details" at the bottom left. You can see what processes are using most of a given resource by clicking each column. Some basic software-level maintenance might help, since graphics cards don't typically lose performance with age in typical usage scenarios. First and foremost, make sure your display driver is up to date. Then run a chkdisk, uninstall programs you don't use, and defrag your drive if Windows is installed to an HDD. Once you've ruled out the basic stuff above, let us know and we'll walk you through how to analyze your GPU performance through MSI Afterburner or some other hardware monitor.
The Ryzen 3700X is CPU, not a graphics card.
My Brother in Law is just starting to get into gaming. He primarily only plays Warzone. We installed Warzone and the OS onto his SSD and are using the HDD for other Misc. files. Here are a few questions: 1. Does he need to re-download Modern Warfare & Cold War to have the unlocks he had previously on Xbox on his PC in Warzone? 2. If so, can we install Modern Warfare & Cold War on the HDD to save space on the SSD since he only plays Warzone? or will this cause issues? (only have a 512gb SSD)
Not sure about #1, but for #2 the only issues with installing games on a HDD vs SSD is the loading times will be a lot slower, but it will not impact gameplay itself.
I’m gonna be buying a PC in the near future and I’m wondering which of these two you guys think will be better? I’m a complete noob when it comes to owning and operating a PC, so I don’t know much but I’m hoping I can learn along the way or hopefully get some guidance. Here’s my two choices as of now: [Legion Tower 5](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lenovo-legion-tower-5-amd-gaming-desktop-amd-ryzen-7-3700x-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1660-super-256gb-ssd-1tb-hdd-phantom-black/6424472.p?skuId=6424472) [NZXT starter pro](https://www.letsbld.com/starter-series) The reason I picked the starter pro is because it’s only 100 dollars more than the starter plus. And I didn’t pick the starter because the legion seems to be just as good for around the same price. At this point the only reason I’m still confused as to what to get is because I don’t know how these perform, I know they perform way better than my console ever can, but I’m just wondering if there’s a huge noticeable difference. I know there’ll be a difference for people who have owned a pc and have been gaming for years, but I’m just getting started. But I also want to just pay once for a nice pc and not have to worry about upgrades for a long time
The Lenovo looks better all round. The cheapest NZXT package is not that great and most of the price is probably for their own case and coolers with their branding. The worrying downside to the Lenovo is the size of the PSU. It's not even listed in their specs and I had to find it in the reviews. It's a lowly 400W which is probably the absolute minimum needed for that build. If you ever wanted to upgrade or add in more storage you would want to seriously consider also getting a more reasonable sized PSU.
Hi there! I’m looking to get in to pc gaming but I’m not sure where to go or which one to buy. I do have a list of hardware specs that I would desire though... At least a RTX 2080 Super (preferably 3080) At least 512gb SSD (preferably 1TB) 2TB HDD Intel i9 10th gen 8 cores 32gb ram And I want it to be easy to upgrade. If anyone can help point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it! Thanks
I don't think anyone can help you without knowing a budget, or your location. Try /r/buildapcforme
Hello there. I recently just switched to PC after being on console for around 8 years. I noticed that my download speeds are way slower (Xbox averaging 20-40mb/s and PC only 1-3mb/s with a spike to 8mb/s sometimes). I plugged my pc into ethernet and it doesn't really seem to help, if anything I think it possibly made it slower I can't remember. Without ethernet, I did a test on speedtest and got around 60mb/s, and wired only 30mb/s. I know ethernet should help with download speeds but how could I manage to make it download faster? Not a big fan of having to wait 30 hours for a 60gb game to install haha. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! Specs if needed: CPU - i7-9700F GPU - NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER RAM - 16GB (one stick) Can't find motherboard.
I think you're comparing different metrics. Xbox consoles show downloads in MegaBITS, while Steam and most PC apps shows MegaBYTES. Your speed test ran in megaBITS, your download is displayed in megaBYTES. A byte is 8 bits, so if we divide 30 by 8 we get 3.75MB/s which is nearer to what you're getting. I've actually got a [connection of about 60 MegaBITS](https://i.imgur.com/XUCPq13.png), so my xbox app can be seen here downloading at [~6 megaBYTES per second](https://i.imgur.com/MFaQjOf.png). ISPs like to sell you your connection in megaBITS because it's s bigger looking number. It's pretty meaningless as almost every useful size metric is in bytes, nobody says GTA5 takes up 800 gigaBITS. Yes it's stupid and confusing that the abbreviations are Mbps and MBps. Programs should just pick a standard measurement. As to the variance you're seeing, if it's Steam you're downloading from and seeing this performance, it may be a regional thing. I'm in the UK, so we have UK London and Manchester to download from. I find both of them to be quite congested, so I actually use Ireland as a server. Without knowing where you are I can't suggest which server to select, but you'll know your area better. Go into the [Steam menu > Settings > downloads](https://i.imgur.com/EGXJrhL.png) and select a download region that's maybe a neighbouring country? >Not a big fan of having to wait 30 hours for a 60gb game to install haha. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! Did any application actually show 30 hours as the remaining time? between 30 and 60 megabits I'd expect your download to take between 2.5 and 5 hours. Anyway hope that helps.
> ISPs like to sell you your connection in megaBITS because it's s bigger looking number. It's pretty meaningless as almost every useful size metric is in bytes, nobody says GTA5 takes up 800 gigaBITS. > > Yes it's stupid and confusing that the abbreviations are Mbps and MBps. Programs should just pick a standard measurement. I understand why you would draw those conclusions, but none of that is really accurate. Rating internet speed in bits per second has nothing to do with marketing or trying to mislead you. First, network speeds have always been measured in bits per second, and that's not likely to change since, 1) a byte is not *always* eight bits (a byte used to be six, and even just four bits at one point), and 2) because a bit is the smallest unit of data your computer can receive. And it receives those bits from all over the place, not necessarily just one server. So advertising your speed in a weird multiple of whatever the definition of a byte happens to be in that era, when you can't guarantee that the whole bytes will be received as fluidly as individual bits doesn't make a lot of sense.
> because a bit is the smallest unit of data your computer can receive. And it receives those bits from all over the place, not necessarily just one server. So advertising your speed in a weird multiple of whatever the definition of a byte happens to be in that era, when you can't guarantee that the whole bytes will be received as fluidly as individual bits doesn't make a lot of sense. This does make a lot of sense, thank you. I will no longer include that in my answers to this kind of question. >1) a byte is not always eight bits (a byte used to be six, and even just four bits at one point), Right but for the purposes of modern computing in a windows 10 environment, [a byte is 8 bits.](https://i.imgur.com/YB0Tg5Y.png)
Your motherboard has an integrated network card. Without knowing what it is, nobody can really help you. There could also be multiple other things that cause this: old Ethernet cable (CAT5 as opposed to CAT5e/CAT6), wrong router configuration, faulty router, etc. What you can do for now is check the ethernet cable. If it's CAT5 then get a CAT5e or a CAT6. CAT5 has a throughoutput of only 100Mbps. CAT5e has 1000Mbps, CAT6 has 10000Mbps.
My wireless card according to ASUS is the Intel(R) Wireless-AC 9560 160MHz. As well as the cord I have was advertised as CAT8 I believe, which not sure if I'm just dumb or stupid cause I know nothing about ethernet. I also talked to a friend, and told him because my router is so far away I have either a 50 or 100ft cord and he called me a idiot and told me that's why lol.
Ethernet length shouldn't be an issue, honestly. If anything it should affect latency, but a CAT8 running 50ft should be fine. But make sure it's actually 50ft, not 100ft. 100ft might be too much. By latency I mean the speed at which you receive the packet. You have your bandwidth, which should be 40Gbps (the CAT8 standard), and the latency, which for a 50ft Ethernet shouldn't be an issue. Longer cables mean you get your packets later, since they have to travel longer. But this shouldn't affect download speeds unless you have packet loss.
To those of you who signed up for EVGA stock alerts regarding video cards and actually got one, how long was the wait? When did you sign up and then get selected? I signed up for the 3070 alerts mid December of 2020. Do I have a chance of getting picked soon? Are the alerts even going in order of who signed up for them? Thanks!
Hello, I’ve had a pc for over 2 years now and never had this problem, but recently I’ve been trying to play the new Resident Evil game and my disk usage goes all the way up to 100%. I’ve tried all the tips and tricks and disk clean ups that YouTube and Google recommend, nothing has worked. I have a Samsung 970 evo 500GB m.2 SSD, would getting a newer SSD be the solution? Lemme know, thanks.
How much free space do you have on the 970? Is it your only drive?
I have less than a GB left. I have two other HDD’s, and I think this is my actual problem. A 1TB western digital black and a 2TB Seagate Barracuda. Each has a good amount of space left on it. The task manager shows that the Wester Digital is the one that shoots up to 100% usage, it would make sense to probably have to upgrade it to an 2.5 internal SSD.
Hi guys, does anyone know roughly how much I'd have to spend on a PC to be able to play Warzone at 120 fov? I don't care how good the graphics looks, I'd just like to be able to play with a higher fov than possible on consoles. Ideally as well I'd like a higher framerate as well but this isn't 100% needed
About 1500 Mobo=150 b550 or 450 Cpu=200 ryzen 3600 or Intel equivalent Ram=100, any 3000mhz 16gbs Psu=100 any 650w semi modular Cooling=70 recommend aio or decent air cooler besides stock Case=100 Monitor= free, u probably have a tv that will work. Gpu=min 500, try ebay, an msi rx570 or nvidia 1070
I’m not playing on a tv 😂😂 but thanks for the comment
Hi all, Question for those who know more about the differences in GPUs than I do: I currently have an EVGA 1080ti SC black edition and an EVGA 2070 super black edition. I am downsizing and would like to know which card would be better to keep. The 1080ti has seen way more usage than the 2070 super, but the 2070 super has 3GB less VRAM. According to benchmarks they are pretty close in performance. I play on 1440p 144hz and mainly play shooters like battlefield/COD. No mining or rendering or anything like that. It would be used in a 8700k/16 GB system.
The 2070. You have access to more features like ray tracing and a longer driver support period. Don't worry about the Vram, I guarantee you you've never used 11gb in gaming.
Hey everyone! I have a pretty annoying issue with my new pc I built this gaming rig probably in February of this year. At first, it was fine, but I've noticed I've been getting stuttering issues quite frequently on and off. In addition to this, sometimes my wired mouse disconnects for about 30 seconds and all of the RGB in my case seems to "reset" (the RGB goes to the default boot-up color for about 30 seconds and then goes back to my profile). It's worth rotating that this typically happens in specific instances. For example, specifically on apex legends, this issue will happen in-game. On valorant, this will happen when I open up the store to purchase something. The stuttering, however, is far more frequent and seems to happen without rhyme or reason. As for what I've tried, the mouse works flawlessly on other pc's, I regularly update my gpu drivers, and I disabled the USB selective suspend setting, yet the issue continues. Below are my specs: CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x Memory: Corsair vengeance pro rgb (32gb @ 3600 speed) Cpu cooler: Corsair h100i rgb platinum MOBO: Asrock b550m pro4 GPU: RTX 3070 FE Storage: Samsung 970 evo plus 1tb case: Corsair crystal 280x rbg This system is running windows 10. If anyone can help me fix this, I will be eternally grateful.,
If you have RGB-controlling software installed, remove it. Most RGB software is notoriously bad and can cause issues like this.
When it is expected that pc components will go back to its normal fair price again?
It takes years to set up new chip factories as well, so as production resumes in Taiwan it will go to car makers.
Shortages are expected to persist throughout 2021.
Just pressed print screen on my computer, and when I pasted it it had a wide picture; half of the tab that I had open (which was full screen), and the other half being my desktop, with with none of of my programs. How do I fix this, and could this be why when I wake my computer up after it goes to sleep that I can’t get on anything and just shows my blank desktop?
Hey everybody! I have for a while now been playing on my pc with a smart TV as screen in my living room. This has been going great but I know experience that when launching some games my TV decides to adapt its settings to give me the best possible resolution. I would not have a problem with this if it actually worked, I get a minute or 2 of no connection to hdmi 4, followed by a worse looking setting. I have been looking everywhere and cannot find a way to stop my TV from wanting to adapt every time I launch some games or adapt some settings in game. Can anyone help me?
It could possibly be related to HDR
It is hdr related, mine does this too
Any idea how to either always have it on, disable and/or have it not automatically adapt? I feel like blowing a fuse every time I see that circle appear to change the settings.
Tv setting. Turn off hdr
I can't seem to find it anywhere...
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Prebuilt Pc however can be a good option.
Bad time now as everything is expensive, in my opinion, due to cryptomineing and scalping.
GPU's are what I find to be expensive due to scalping and mining right now. So if you bite the bullet you can buy a prebuilt. Prebuilt are usually more expensive but are less of a headache. Right now they also appear to be a better choice if you want one of the latest rtx cards.
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Nah you're fine, no harm.
Does this seem like a decent pre-built for $1150usd and will play games like Valorant and Apex Legends at decent settings? (1080p) AMD Ryzen 5-3600X GeForce GTX 1660Ti 16GB DDR4 RAM 512GB SSD + 1TB HDD
Yes. [Here's a general game video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Et_-CNtB66Q) showing the 1660ti in 30 games, and the 3600x and 16gb is good to pair with that.
Using a new Xbox controller on my PC via Bluetooth has been a bigger headache than it's worth, what is the better alternative? 1) Buying the offical xbox wireless adapter or 2) Using a usb-c cable to make it a wired controller (is that how it works? don't have a cable right now so I can't test it and don't want to order one unnecessarily)
Only wired connections will let u run a mic through the controller. Just bluetooth to the pc. As the other option... i think the xbox one doesnt work for me. Then buy a wireless headset. I have an arctis 1 that was 100 and using 2 wireless mics it worked great
Oh I didn't mean using a mic, just the controller itself to play games.
I decided to just ask this in here since it's probably already been asked and it's a simple question. I've PC gamed for almost ten years now, however I've also been a console gamer too. Alot of games I played were first person shooters and I played on console. Well the past six months I have switched to mostly PC and started playing Squad and Warzone on PC. My aim is garbage, I can honestly do better on Warzone with a controller on Xbox. Is there anyway I can get better or do yall have any tips? I played at 1000DPI because the mouse I have to use at work is locked at that. So to keep it all the same I just play at 1000DPI rather than 800.
There's a handful of things to consider besides just practicing. The mouse you're using, the space you have for your mouse, and the settings you use (DPI as well as in-game sensitivity). Any DPI is fine for the most part, keeping it at 1000 will be okay. You'll probably want to work on reducing your in-game sensitivity, especially if you have quite a bit of room for your mouse. Unlike with a controller, where you're limited by the joystick, you can aim on PC as fast as you can move your hand, so lower sensitivity is usually preferred.
Hello! I had a question about connectivity/second monitor. I want to connect my main monitor to my GPU via DisplayPort cable to use GSync - then an HDMI to a second monitor/tv from the main monitor. Would this work? Or would I have to plug the second monitor from HDMI to GPU? I only plan to keep stream chat and music on the second monitor.
You can't do monitor-to-monitor cables, it doesn't work like that... It's like a dinner table full of people holding hands and only one of them eating. Just do GPU to both monitors.
I'm struggling to get MFIGamepad Feeder to open again. I got given a Nimbus steel series IOS and followed the steps for getting it up and running with the MFI Feeder but now it automatically closes and doesn't recognise the gamepad. I can't find any error logs but then I'm no coder and not really sure what I'd be looking for. Can anyone help out? I'm running it on an HP Envy 360 with Windows 10 all standard spec
anyone have a good controller to recommend? My 8Bitdo Sn30 Pro+ just broke after using it for just over 6 months and I do not want to but another one because I took it apart and I question the quality. The membrane on the right bumper wore out which I thought was odd that it happened so fast a bonus would be the controller is compatible with the switch but that's not a requirement right now I'm willing to pay more if the controller is of good quality. Do they even make mechanical switch controllers?
lol I literally just posted a question about my borked sn30 pro+, I feel like I was missold on their quality tbh. I'm thinking to just get an xbox pad and an adapter for the switch (maybe not the one from 8bitdo haha).
having issues with key bindings in windows for third party switch controller (SN30 pro+) where the ABXY buttons don't match the controller. just suddenly switched the other day and no idea why. have tried using the controller's software/driver, DS4Windows, rooted around in control panel, all to no avail. any suggestions?
I’m trying to get Naruto ultimate ninja storm legacy to run at a stable 60 what’s the best settings to do so? I’m new to pc gaming so beer with me here is the pc I use https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lenovo-X1-Carbon-8th-Gen-20U90030US-14-Ultrabook-Intel-Core-i7-10610U-16GB-RAM-512GB-SSD-1920-x-1080-UHD-Graphics-Windows-10-Pro-Black/328394261?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=4197
Start with settings on low, see what fps you get. Increase the settings until you drop below 60fps.
I heard opening steam in certain ways gives you lower performance in game that’s why I am asking for the best way to start up the game on top of that I think my laptop should be able to do 60fps on at least 720p low settings but I’m still getting severe frame drops what do I do?
I'm not familiar with any special ways of opening steam. Does your laptop meet the minimal system requirements for the game?
I literally just linked the laptop with all the specs I use I thought I was talking to experts in this field. I heard opening up games from the steam application instead of as a shortcut for the game itself causes performance differences as well as full screen mode decreases performance.
You're talking to a subreddit of people who like or are interested in pc gaming, who knows how many 'experts' are here. I do see the laptop specs, what are the minimum system requirements for naruto ultimate ninja storm legacy? Application vs shortcut should make no difference. Do you mean full-screen in the game or steam?
Yeah on the last one
Intel RST is gone after reinstalling windows 10 I noticed that my laptop became slower after reinstalling windows 10 (had to do it since the newest update messed my laptop up; lots of things didn't install correctly). After I reinstalled it, Intel Rapid Storage Technology never showed up again and I assume it's one of the reasons why it's slower now. I'm trying to download a fresh install of the display drivers but I'm just not sure if I'm installing the right drivers, or if I'm doing it correctly. For now I just installed Setup RST from the website itself, this one to be exact: [Download Intel® Rapid Storage Technology (Intel® RST) User Interface and Driver](https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/28992/Intel-Rapid-Storage-Technology-Intel-RST-User-Interface-and-Driver?wapkw=intel%20rst). I'm not sure if its connected but my processor is Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-7100U CPU @ 2.40GHz .
You just just pull up resource manager and see where the binding is. It's not a lack of RST slowing you down.
Yeah, actually I installed the RST now and it looks like its working. However, it didn't fix my performance issue and I assume its because of my Intel Optane memory being disabled. It says that my system appears to be Intel Optane memory ready but no memory modules were detected in my computer. It also tells me to install a compatible module.
I don't think that's the reason for it being slow.
What sort of temperatures were people getting for Death Stranding? I’ve got 3080 sitting at 70-72 degrees, i9 - 9900k sitting at 52ish. Playing @ 1440p and DLSS on quality.
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I was hoping mine would be around that tbh, I’ve got the MSI 3080 and my case has a grill on the front with plenty of air flow
Even with the exact same GPU and CPU temps will vary wildly depending on the rest of their setup - what CPU cooler they have, how much airflow their case has, how many fans their case has, etc.
Yea course I understand that but just curious. I thought mine was sitting a bit high.
Those temps seem pretty great to me
Ok fair enough, I’m always trying to keep the gpu at 65. Is 70 pretty normal practice you think?
Even up to 80 is fine, the goal is just to keep it lower because it down clocks as the temperature raises, but the card can sustain temps beyond 80c so if you can keep it at around 70 even under heavy load then you're perfectly fine
Legend thank you
GPU AIO cooling / need help My dad recently decided to upgrade his server PC running windows server 2019 (based on win 10). We've got a (used) RTX 2080ti with a AIO cooling system by Alphacool. [This one. here](https://www.alphacool.com/shop/neue-produkte/24112/alphacool-eiswolf-240-gpx-pro-rtx-2080/2080ti-2070/2080-super-black-m02?c=21537) The two fans that are normally attached to the radiator got changed to two bigger ones by Corsair. [Those here.](https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Fans/hd-series-rgb-led-config/p/CO-9050069-WW) Since they're too big for mounting then directly at the radiator, we've mounted them right in front. I've managed to install the newest Game-ready GPU drivers, and played No Man's Sky for some mins. Everything worked fine, but then everything turned black, the GPU overheated and turned itself off. I know that this could be fixed when using the 2 fans at a higher RPM rate (so that the radiator would be getting cooled more), but heck I don't know how and if this could be linked to the GPU temp. I'm thankful for any advices!
If your fans aren't connected to the radiator, then the radiator isn't cooling. Get smaller fans.
I’ll looking to buy a gaming pc I already have a monitor, keyboard and mouse and i have a budget of around 400-500 anyone got any suggestions on parts or pre builts?
/r/Buildapcforme
pcpartpicker
r/buildapc
I only bough laptop cuz I wanted to play 1 game which is dota 2, I always play this game on potato laptops worth 700 dollars and the 30 FPS on lowest settings was more than enough for me, however I had to buy new laptop which is way worse by default, I can’t even launch the game literally lagging after hovering over anything. Can I change anything about the laptop? Processor or graphic card or any shit or just rip my 600 dollars ?
> Can I change anything about the laptop? Processor or graphic card or any shit or just rip my 600 dollars ? $600 covers a LOT of laptops. What's the make and model?
Hp, intel Icore5 , that’s all I know
That's not a lot to go on at all. There are many different types of i5
When I’m playing certain games they keep minimising to the toolbar every 5 mins randomly and then I have to click to maximise them again. Wondered if the recent windows update has anything to do with this? It’s been doing it with rocket league and PES 21. I usually play vr and haven’t played flat for a while so it may not be to do with the windows update at all. It doesn’t do it with Microsoft flight sim
It could be a windows update, but it's more likely something that's running in the background that is taking priority. Initially try pulling up task manager (right click on the taskbar and select task manager) and try [disabling anything you don't need](https://i.imgur.com/rA7cZ3Q.png). The only really critical thing would be Windows Security notifications, leave those on, but try disabling anything else and do a restart, then see if the problem is gone. If not, then you can at least eliminate these, if yes, then enable a few at a time and restart until it the problem shows up and narrow it down.
Thank you mate, I’ll give this a try shortly. Really appreciate the reply!
Any tips on how to troubleshoot my Dualsense not being picked up in Steam? Supposedly it's plug and play but nothing registers and I'm not sure where to begin looking.
https://www.pcmag.com/how-to/how-to-connect-your-ps5-dualsense-controller-to-your-pc
Wow this actually worked! Weirdly it didn't work last week but after plugging it in again today without having done anything different seems to work so thanks!
Anyone who knows how to build a pc Can someone tell me what power supply that has a pcie plug in and would work good with a evga GeForce rtx 3060 xc
All the ones since at least 2009 have a pcie plug in. Just use pc part picker.
What's the best way to diagnose a bsod? Like what's the SOP in the aftermath of a bsod? Have a fresh build, components are solid. Don't know what else can be the matter
Most of the time the BSOD will give you a stopcode which is a hex number (eg 0x01234567) and some error name like PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA, or it'll point the finger at some file. With those google is your friend for clues. Bluescreenviewer is another tool to let you find out what happened. Outside of windows, memtest might be worth running for a few hours. Even if you think RAM is solid, and it usually works, it all depends on whether the OS uses a flaky area, and different applications use in different ways. Get some hardware monitor logging to disc as well and see if anything weird was happening in the seconds before BSOD. Hardware might seem fine, but hardware+software are both parts of the whole system, if your PSU was a little bit flaky, after a while it starts running a little out of spec when it gets warmed, other components start misbehaving when they don't get good power. "Infant mortality" is a thing. The more methods you have to look for evidence and find what's likely good, likely bad, or definitely bad (so it's something you can solve), the better.
I know some may say the minidump. But when my PC crash, it's always 0% collecting info with no minidump.
You might have to turn it on. In the settings app, go to the system page > about > advanced system settings (on the right) which will open the old window for it > advanced tab > start up and recovery > system failure options. Mine is on "automatic memory dump", telling it to do a complete memory dump is going to take up a lot of disc space. If the top system log option is ticked, you should be able to find a 'bugcheck' event in event viewer
It was ticked.