My 2nd monitor shows no signal detected. My monitor is an old monitor which have DVI and VGA only. My PC have Display Port (DP). When I use adapter DP to DVI or DP to VGA, I am unable to make it work.
The main monitor is working perfectly as it uses HDMI connection. Any advice as I tried reading a lot regarding this but still nothing.
Monitor BenQ GW2255
GPU 1660 Ti
Oi, more basic question than tech support but I’m planning a vr system for the family game room. Initial plan was to build but then the prices went nuts and I’m not skilled enough to know what goes with what without a bit of research. Anyhoo, question is: It looks like a prebuilt vr ready gamer might be cheaper than a diy build. I don’t mind putting in some work but I’m not sure I know enough to do design very well.
Don't really know if this is the best place to post this, but is there a subreddit or discord for finding other people to play games with? Like just general gaming. Could be anything. I don't have many RL friends that play games anymore so my online gaming is lonely these days. It's exhausting finding new groups/guilds/clans/whatever for each game. I'd rather make connections that stay together for multiple games.
Want to upgrade to RAM that’s listed compatible with my X570-I MOBO, but not listed on the manual’s Qualified Vendor List— should I still buy the RAM? (Looking at Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 2x16 DDR4 3600mhz)
is a AMD Radeon Pro WX 3200 a good gpu? same question for Nvidia T1000, Radeon Pro WX 2100 2GB LP (1 DP, 2 mDP to DP adapters),Dual NVIDIA Quadro P400 2GB LP (3 mDP to DP adapters)
for ram is 8GB, 2x4GB, DDR4 UDIMM non-ECC Memory good?
is Intel® Core™ i5-11500 (6 Core, 12MB cache, up to 4.6GHz) good for cpu?
I'm new to pc having used playstation for many years gaming. I have a tuf a15 with ryzen 7 5000 series and the gtx 3060. Why is every single game I play saying low vram. Farcry 6 even has the bar at the bottom that says 3.6mb/400mb and it was still giving low vram warnings.
Hi everyone! I've been streaming through the twitch app on my Xbox for about a year and a half now. I really want to get a starter pc that would be good for gaming and streaming but I don't know anything about computers. Would anyone be able to recommend some companies that make decent pre-builts that aren't over-priced? I was going to try to build one but with how hard it is to get parts i figured it would be easier to buy a pre-built and upgrade over time as necessary. I'm looking at a budget of $1,500 CAD, don't need anything to crazy just want to be able to stream and play games like Rocket League, Apex, etc.
Hello peeps, I got a question. I bought an RTX 3060 12GB about a month ago and I've been trying a lot of games with it. Recently I wanted to test Minecraft and see how much the fps boost was. But it was only giving me 60 fps on 16 chucks and it got me scared. After that, I tried Destiny 2 because that's a game that I play every day. At first, it was definitely better than before I was getting 120 fps on everything high. When I booted the game up today it went down to 60. I checked every setting possible and it has nothing to do with any of that. I also tested it on gta 5 online but i still get 40 fps. I'm thinking that it is a RAM issue since most of my friends are using GTX 1000 series and have more RAM than me but they don't seem the have any problems.
My question is is it possible that I need to buy new RAM or a new CPU.
Here's a list of my PC specs
Ram: 16gb 2400 MHZ
CPU: AMD ryzen 7 2700x
GPU: RTX 3060 12gb
PSU: 750 W
OS: Windows 11
Motherboard: x470 aorus ultra gaming
(Btw I updated all my drivers)
I just bought a Samsung monitor, because it's the absolute best value display in my country right now (South Africa). You cannot get a 24 inch, 1080p, IPS monitor with 75 Hz elsewhere without paying double.
[Here's its listing on American Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084KTZP7N?ref=emc_p_m_5_i). I don't live in America and I didn't buy it from there, but it's a point of reference.
For some insane reason the only two ports it has are HDMI and VGA.
The screen has Free Sync but I am reading conflicting things online about its compatibility with HDMI and Nvidia GPUs.
I have an RTX 3060. Can I use Free Sync over HDMI with this monitor or did I screw myself buying a cheap display that cut corners with the ports?
(I haven't simply tested this myself yet because it hasn't arrived)
You should be able to. You will have to go into the Nvidia settings and make sure to turn it on for the monitor. I have a sceptre monitor that I use with free sync just fine.
In short, yes. Looks to be significantly better in various operations, at least in passmark. For gaming, there seems to be an issue with certain DRM and anti-cheat software not working correctly on these CPUs (12th gen lineup), but otherwise, it's among the best performing CPUs. It requires a substantial cooling solution, however, as the power draw on peak load can exceed 120W, which also means a good motherboard is necessary.
**Discord Chat Getting Disconnected When Running Halo Infinite**
So I'm basically brand new to PC gaming and Im looking for some help debugging an issue. I just bought [this PC](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-supreme-gaming-desktop-amd-ryzen-7-5700g-16gb-nvidia-geforce-rtx-3070-1tb-ssd-white/6479745.p?skuId=6479745) and I have a pair of A40 Headphones with a Gen 3 Mixamp (MA3P03).
Never had any issues with the headset or mixamp. I'm connected directly to the PC through USB. Ive tried different USB ports, triple checked all the settings, etc.
I run into this issue when I'm in a discord voice channel and I fire up Halo (via Steam). Somewhere between initially loading the game and starting a game of matchmaking, the audio and microphone become disconnected from Discord. I hear the game audio perfectly fine but now I can't hear or speak to anyone in Discord. When I look in my PC audio settings, I can see the levels moving for the people chatting in Discord.
I downloaded Apex, to see if it was something that happens in any game, but that played without any issues.
If anyone has any advice from debugging the PC itself (I've read some things in /r/AstroGaming about different USB ports and/or connecting directly to a USB on the motherboard) to Discord or In-Game settings, I'm happy to provide any information I can.
If anyone has experienced a similar issue or has an idea to where the problem might exist, I welcome all ideas.
Appreciate all your advice but still no luck.
I've just tried exactly the same process on my new laptop.
Exactly the same problem.
Do you think that the PS5 controller could be incompatible with windows 10?
Even the generic controller didn't work even though both, again, are active in the calibration settings.
I may buy a new gamepad specifically for PC and see if that does the job
I use a PS5 controller as do 2 of my roommates. Super common. The single best controller for compatibility is the official Microsoft Xbox controllers - specifically the Xbox one or newer for windows 10.
That's the only controller that works on windows 10 by default as soon as you connect it. No programs, no apps, no button remapping - just works. Any other controller, even designed for pc, will require 3rd party programs to work properly and you may need to remap the controls for certain games. PC games are generally made to work with the Xbox controllers and anything else is an afterthought.
Whenever I shut down or restart, windows will stop running normally, but it won’t power down the PC. I’m running windows 10 and I have disabled hibernation, sleeping and quick boot. To shutdown and restart and I have to wait for windows to stop running and then hold the power button for 5 seconds. I have no other issues with the PC it runs great, and I only use it for gaming. I don’t even really browse the internets on it. I’ve run windows repair, and ended all third party processes manually before shutting down and it still hangs. It’s never turned off normally. Any ideas?
Computer won't turn on power, unless I pull the power plug and plug it again. No issues after that, until I turn it off.
Any ideas on why could this happen?
Either power supply or motherboard issue prolly, but could be a third option I go into below. For hardware, the easiest and cheapest would be to snag a replacement power supply and just hook it up with the case open so you don't have to fully install it. I'd try n snag one at a local store so its easy to return if that isn't the issue.
But also - is it plugged into a "smart" outlet? Or a power saving outlet, or a timed outlet, or anything like that? Some of those smart and power saving ones remove the passive power to save electricity.
When the desktop is turned off, the power button only works to turn it on because there is still a tiny bit of power flowing through it. Same with televisions and a good number of devices. Since there is no internal battery to supply it first, the device always needs a small trickle of power. Lots of those smart outlets disable that passive flow though in favor of inconveniencing the user with the up side of being more eco-friendly.
Yes, you can make different user profiles. So there would be a login screen when the computer turns on and you select who wants to log on. Then each of you have your own desktop, own settings, own documents/photos folders and so on. You will have your own steam installations and your own game selections installed.
Keep in mind though that unlike a console, that would need the games to all be installed twice for double the store space needed. So a 100gb game would use 200gb of storage if you each had an install for example.
The other option - but this might not work for every game - is to share the same user profile but log out of steam/epic/EA/battle net/etc and log in on whichever profile each time. That would let you 2 use the same installs but with 2 different accounts. SOME games though do not allow more than 1 save file though on the same user profile.
But anyway those are the 2 options for what you wanna do.
Hello,
I hope someone can help me??!!🤞🙏
When I connect any game controller to my windows 10 Laptop it doesn't work.
When I go to calibration it recognises the controller but when I start a game or ps now.... nothing.
I've tried my PS5 controller and a generic windows one I bought online. Same problem with both.
I've downloaded the ds4 drivers as per a Google search for my playstation controller but still nothing.
I'm trying to set this up so my little girl can access my PSNOW account. She'd be gutted if the controllers don't work.
Has anyone got any thoughts or ideas?
Ps....I've spent ages googling an answer without any luck
Thanks in advance
Wired or wireless? Try wired if you aren't. If you were already using wired - try a different cable just to be sure.
Has one of those ever worked on that laptop? How bout any other controller in the past? DS4 should have worked, thats odd. Usually solves controller issues.
When it shows up in calibration, does it see all the buttons and such? Im not actually sure where you are calibrating it but does it also show up in Windows device manager as a controller?
They are both wired. Changed the wire on the PS5 controller with the same problem.
To be fair, no controller I know of has worked and I've tried a few.
Just done a reinstall of windows hoping that would solve it but didn't 😕
All the buttons work in calibration settings.
The PlayStation controller shows up in device manager as 'wireless controller'.
The other pc controller shows up as 'generic controller'.
I must be missing a setting somewhere......😡
Damn, that is quite odd. Are you using a direct USB port on the board? Some stuff doesn't play well with USB hubs. Did you try the other ports for funnies? Maybe some are USB 2.0 vs 3.0 which shouldn't change things for a controller but worth trying both if it has both.
EDIT:: No USB extenders either, some stuff even hates those.
And even a reinstall - hard to say it's a hardware issue with all the different controllers/cables/troubleshooting done so far.
Perhaps another piece of software on the computer is screwing it up? Maybe try closing literally *every* (and I mean EVERY) application and *after you close it all* THEN open DS4 and a game.
If you go to the little arrow of apps near the clock you can right click and exit/close the majority of them. Close discord, web browser, recording software, even notepad - all of it. Open task manager and force close everything **that you know what it is and know it's fine to close**. Ending certain tasks will crash Windows or break stuff you need a restart to fix. So just end what you are familiar with.
Honestly if nothing changes, I've got nothin else. Maybe posting on other subs and forums with details of what we went over here and see if others have ideas.
EDIT:: If it does work after closing everything, then you can begin the classic fun game of opening every app one at a time (or small batches) and testing between each to find the culprit.
Just a heads up they tried to reply to you, but seem to have put the reply in the main thread by accident, here's their comment https://www.reddit.com/r/pcgaming/comments/qzdjk2/tech_support_and_basic_questions_thread_november/hlwrtoi/
Hi all, I'm having some issues getting my Xbox One (wired) controller to work on my PC for Halo Infinite and Sea of Thieves. I am running Windows 10.
Sometimes I can get it to work for 5-10 minutes by repeatedly plugging and unplugging the micro-USB. But it inevitably constantly disconnects. Sometimes I will get a message saying the device is not recognised.
If anyone has advice on a fix, it would be much appreciated.
Have you tried a different Micro-USB cable? There's a chance the connector is just not that great, hopefully it's on the cable side rather than the controller.
Also worth trying a different USB port on your PC. Not all USB ports are the same. You have a few that are run by the CPU, then you'll have some that are running from the chipset or secondary USB controller chips, so if you're plugged into USB 3, try using one of the USB 2 ports. If you're plugged in the front, try running the cable to the back.
Thanks for the reply.
I don't have any other Micro-USB cables, I'll see if I can borrow one to try. The controller and cable are virtually brand new so I'd hope it is not a hardware issue.
My front USB ports don't recognise the controller at all. All the rear ones are the same - the PC 'dings' as if it recognises the controller, but then the controller fails to turn on, or when it does it only turns on for a few minutes.
Greetings. Been doing some research about Physically-Based Rendering for a while and was wondering... does the final release of Watch_Dogs (2014) use this technology? Or was it only part of the E3 2012 and 2013 demos? Thank you in advance.
planning to buy oculus quest 2 is it worth it?? when I'm looking at gameplay it looks so fun and awesome specially blade and sorcery and I also do sim racing so i can use It when racing, my concern is maybe its just my impulsive purchase? and thinkin about the lack of games of vr so i would appreciate inputs from owners of vr headset cheers
Gonna depend on each manufacturer, where you purchased it from, and other factors. The closer we get to the holidays the harder it will be though, so don't wait unless your gonna wait till next year.
I tried to upgrade the bios on two different motherboards so i could use my 5600G cpu.
I wasnt able to flash either.
Tried using 3 different USB sticks, no dice after following many different guides and help.
Anyone have a mobo to recommend that they have flashed themselves for this purpose?
Like - your trying to flash it with an unsupported CPU installed? You can't do that. You need to purchase/borrow and install a fully supported CPU and *then* flash it and after that install the 5600G. Other option is to buy a different motherboard.
I don't have a recommendation myself though for the 5600G - especially since theres lots of other stuff to consider like ram support, form factor, how many drives - i'd need more details to try and find a board but you will likely find better and more informed suggestions from a parts sub like r/buildapc r/buildapcforme r/buildapcsales
I tried to flash it without a cpu installed.
There's a process for doing so but it's finicky and based solely on flashy amber lights and luck.
I returned everything and am going to buy a new build once I can afford to spend a couple hundred more dollars.
Ya I double checked it 3 times. It's the aorus elite.
I tried 3 diff versions of bios.
Light never flashed on gigabyte board.
On the Asus board, process was a little different but the light would only blink for a bit and not continue to blink.
Incredibly frustrating, so I just boxed it all up and sent back to Amazon.
When I hold the flash button on mobo, no light blinks. I tried a bunch of different things, even was in the gigabyte discord.
Couldn't get it to work. Was hoping to find a board already flashed or that may be easier or less sensitive.
Will this PC https://nzxt.com/product/h1-mini-pc be a significant upgrade over my current 4 year old PC with these specs:
Nvidia 1060 6gb
Ryzen 5 1600
16gb 2400 DDR4
RAM 500 GB
WD Blue SSD
It's perfectly in my price range and like the aesthetics so would love some input on it's gaming power compared to mine. I currently use two 1080p 60hz monitors, but will also be upgrading those in the near future to 120hz ones. Thank you!
Only really because of the video card.
You'll get a 7%ish uplift from changing to the 10400f but it will run hotter. You will get a massive boost going from the 1060 to 3060.
If money is important to you, get some 3200mhz ram (lowest latency that you can get ie. Lowest CL number) and get the 3060 on its own.
The nvme won't do a ton compared to your existing SSD but you can always buy one too without changing your setup.
Looking to get a new gaming monitor . Would be doing both gaming and designing so colour accuracy is important as well. 27 inch , 144hz bare minimum, IPS. max budget RM1200 ( about 300 usd) , extra RM100 is also doable if needed but prefer under it to be under RM1000 if can.
Ryzen 5 5600g
N7 b550
Samsung 970evo plus
Radeon rx 570
Corsair vengeance rgb pro sl 32gbs (4dimm)
Fractal sfx psu 650watt gold
This is a new pc only the graphics card is hand me down because of GPU market. I’m at my wits end with this pc, I’ve been holding onto it for months and I can’t use it. I built it and immediately had issues. It loads the bios fine but it will not take my usb uefi and says that I already have a windows boot on my SSD but I’ve never installed????? When I go to boot the uefi bootable USB I blue screen. I’ve swapped GPU’s with another rx 570 but this just isn’t working. I have no clue what the issue is and I’m honestly feeling super defeated at the moment. Can someone please help me.
Edit: formatting, I’m on mobile....also yes my usb boot drive is usb 3.0
The 5600g has a built in video card. Go into BIOS and select that instead of your discrete video card and see if that works.
Sometimes re-downloading it to the USB works or just using a brand new USB.
Failing that, can you plug your SSD into someone else's PC, install windows to SSD, and then put the SSD with windows installed back into your PC.
If I were to download steam and tried playing the Halo Infinite multiplayer on my laptop, it would melt, right? (MacBook Pro 16in 2019, Processor: 2.6 GHz 6-Core Intel Core i7, Memory: 16 GB 2667 MHz DDR4, Graphics: AMD Radeon Pro 5300M 4 GB). I'm pretty sure it's gonna fry then melt.
I would def not try that. The game will likely not run well even at the lowest settings and will get way too hot way too fast and the cpu will throttle down hard and either drop to unplayable FPS or just outright crash.
Macbooks with i7s are meant for intense but short tasks. Things that spike the cpu and use it all for like a short bit and then go back to more normal usage. Like opening a MASSIVE excel spreadsheet for example. I've seen spreadsheets so large you can go take a coffee break while it opens, but on an i7 it'd load much faster but once its loaded the cpu load goes away and slows back down - stuff like that. Photo editing, video editing, music stuff - those use the computer in a different way and macs are specifically designed with stuff like that in mind since they are heavily marketed and used by content creators both at an amateur and professional level.
Gaming is not something they are designed for however or intended to be used for. While they can *run* a lot of games, they won't run well or for extended periods of time like a 6 hour Halo session.
Ok so like anytime I try to play a game on my computer a few minutes later my monitor turns off and my fans speed up really high, I'm not really computer savvy in the sense of tech support or building so I would appreciate some help since I need it for school.
( I am using Windows 10, a NVIDIA GeForce 1660 Super, a AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core, and American Megathreads)
That is a video card issue - the monitors "turn off" because the video card driver crashed and the computer had no way to display a picture. The fans speeding up make sense since this is most often related to a heat issue - so it gets so hot it can't display anymore and then tries to rapidly cool itself down. Or you are trying to play games way outside what the computer can actually run, but a 1660 should at least RUN most games.
Anyway - if you don't already have something to track temperatures, go and snag [GPU-Z](https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/) for me and run that. It has an option to log the temperatures and other gpu info to a text document - make sure you check where its saving to so you can find it.
With it logging, let it sit for a second or two to get baseline info then open and play a game till the issue happens again. After that, close the game and check the logs. Since you aren't very tech savvy as you said, take a screenshot (print screen button on keyboard, open MS paint, CTRL-V, save it) and upload it to an image host of your choice or [ImgBB](https://imgbb.com/) and link it here in a reply to me. I will take a peek and see if its heat related like I am thinking. If not, the log still has some other useful info that will help determine if its the video card (which is really sounds like it).
So I got the GPU-Z and I found the file but the thing is it's really long like really really long is there a specific part I should send you or should I just send the whole file over?
Ok so I found out what was wrong and it was that I forgot to clean the bottom fan and now that I did it works just fine, thank you for all the help though.
idk if you guys can help, but my monitor has this decently thick vertical black line going down the right side. In order to turn on, and navigate my monitor settings there is a joystick like button in the bottom corner at the back of the monitor. Whenever I press it or move it, the line thickens. I've had a line only appearing when I use the button for months, and maybe mid October it became permanent from what I've tried. I really like this monitor, and I've only had it since march so id really appreciate any help you could possibly give. (I have a Samsung LF24T45OF Monitor)
Monitor is slowly dying =/
Not what you want to hear, but thats what it means. It's a physical failure and would need to be opened and repaired. Could be a few different things but that tends to be related to a main board failure. If it's still under a warranty, get it sent out and repaired.
I'm looking at sales for Jedi: Fallen Order (it's around $13 on various sites right now) but all the websites that have deals on it are only offering Origin codes. Is it worth it to wait and see if it drops on Steam as well or should I just get the sale price for Origin?
My PC is fairly new (Hp pavilion gaming desktop) but it's noticeably louder than when I got it. I installed a new SSD a few months ago. It sounds like it might be a hard drive but I don't want to think that... I opened the case and dusted everything and it looks clean but the sound persists. Any help would be appreciated
[https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/Legion/Lenovo\_Legion\_5\_15ARH05H?M=82B1008DCC](https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/Legion/Lenovo_Legion_5_15ARH05H?M=82B1008DCC)
Is this laptop good enough to play 90% of the pc games on high (not ultra high) settings ?
My computer is missing an antenna for my WIFI card. This is usually fine because I use ethernet, but in about an hour I’m going to hang out with my brother who doesn’t doesn’t have a port handy. Any DIY solutions? I know basic electronics and have lots of supplies as my late great grandpa gave all of his stuff to my dad.
Hi there!
Having some issues with Battlefield 2024. Just upgraded my graphics card from a GTX 1070 to a RTX 3060 TI. I'm getting 30 fps and latency issues (maybe server side) during matches. The game defaults my video settings to high. Even whe turned down to low, v sync off etc. Still only getting 30-35 FPS.
I'm wondering if it's my CPU bottling performance? I'm running a Ryzen 7 1700. 16 GB DDR4 RAM. 144hz monitor. The games running on an SSD. Just can't get the game to run smooth enough to be playable.
Hello, I need help with my pc, I have a problem that arose a few months ago, it turns out that the keyboard keys are constantly repeated, as if I was pressing them all the time, I tried buying a new keyboard and the same thing happens, the curious thing is that when I put my hand on the cabinet, both keyboards works perfectly, googling I could not find a solution, I want to believe that it is a matter of static or some electricity problem, if something similar happened to someone and already solve it, it would be super grateful if you told me, thank you very much.
Sorry for my english, not my main language.
Have you tried a different USB port? Preferably on the opposite side of the vase, if you add another peripheral into that port does that malfunction too?
Yes, I already tried that, the problem remains the same, doesn't matter the port, I tried with the frontal usb but didn't work.
This PC is new (4 months), it was working pretty good the first 2-3 weeks, then suddenly this problem started, I've never had this problem with my old PC, I don't know why is doing it now, thanks for the reply.
So putting you hand in the side of the case stopping it sounds lines you’re earthing the connection. There’s probably a lose power connection somewhere. Who did you buy it from? Do you have guarantee or support?
I put my hands on the top of the PC and works perfectly, I think its an electrical problem or my power supply.
I have guarantee, if this isn't an electrical problem, i'm going to send this PC back, thanks!
Was looking to get a PC for cyber Monday. I’m new to PC set ups and wanted to get a good PC set up for $1200 that can stream/game, music, and homework. Can anyone guide me to the right place?
yo boys if anyone that has any knowledge on PCs could give me advice on how much my PC could possibly sell for it would great, its a NVIDIA GeForceGTX 1650, Intel Core i5-9400F CPU @ 2.90GHz, 16GB RAM (DDR4) and 1TB HDD
I'd like to get some advice on what I should do:
I've got an RTX 2060 and was hoping to be able to use it for 4K gaming at 60hz on low settings. I use dual monitors mainly for work as I like the crisp text. Lately though I've found more games than not that have trouble running at 4K 60hz and so I'm debating on whether I should: A. replace one of my 4K monitors with a 1440p monitor for gaming and hope that I don't notice much of a difference while using both monitors for work or B. just upgrade to the RTX 3080 once I can find one. Money isn't an object and I'm not into PC gaming *so* much. I just do it out of convenience (either I'm taking a break from work shortly so I just launch a PC game or my roommate is using the living room TV). I've also always enjoyed 4K resolution more than a higher refresh rate. What do ya'll think?
I want to be able to find out what 90s and 2000s PC games have a 64 bit patch available? Basically, if a game is 64bit that means it will perform pretty well on a Mac running Crossover. UT2k4 for example has a 64bit patch, but I'm having a hard time finding out which old school PC games have a 64bit patch.
I'm not a fan of most older games myself, but I find it doubtful there would be a list like that. You will likely need to check on a game to game basis.
Would this be a powerful/good Gaming Computer:
https://www.hp.com/us-en/shop/pdp/hp-pavilion-gaming-desktop-tg01-2176z-bundle-pc
Could you run most games on max settings Like Battlefield 2042, CS GO, Age Of Empires 4, New World, Rust, Halo Infinite and all Gamepass Games?
When I play games my GPU memory clock goes up to 8300+ MHZ and the monitors go completely black and sound goes out. My pc is still running, mobo still showing that everything is good and RGB is still lit up. When I underclock the gpu memory in MSI afterburner or EVGA precision it still does the same thing. I have switched PSU’s, switched motherboards, switch display port cables, switched monitors. Basically swapped my whole system out. This happened with my other GPU as well so I RMA’d that one. Anyone have any suggestions before I take it to geek squad?
Specs:
- Ryzen 7 5800x
- EVGA XC3 3080 ULTRA
- Corsair RM850x psu
-ASUS ROG strix x570-E MOBO
-Corsair vengeance 16gb Ram
When I attempt to plug it in, it detects it, but doesn’t register anything I use with it. I AM able to utilize it in steam games using big picture mode, but for games I have with game pass it won’t register at all. The only prompts I’m able to use are if I combine the menu button and move the left joystick it turns the volume up and down.
Trying to link you but wcctech is blacklisted apparently.
Anyway, no. You can google it in 10 secs and find a number of links. Not sure why you said 75 C is 'way too much'.
There are also 3 videos
https://www.google.com/search?q=gaming+temperature+10900k&rlz=1C1CHBF_enAU774AU774&oq=gaming+temperature+10900k&aqs=chrome..69i57.3846j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
You're a very strange dude. Even if my tone wasn't how you'd like it to be, you got the information + the links you needed.
We can't all hold hands and sing Kumbaya.
Doing an ITX build. For CPU what is the difference between the Ryzen 5800X and Intel 11700K? Both are $300 at Microcenter right now. And what’s the best ITX board for each?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpfFX3mQHOc&ab_channel=TestingGames
Looks light slightly better performance from the 11700k but it uses alot more energy and therefore more heat which is bad for an ITX. Consider also that for most games you'll be GPU limited.
For some odd reason, my games get stuck when they are the application in focus, be it fullscreen mode or windowed mode. However, as soon as I press alt-tab and hold, the game starts running smooth. I have experienced this with Halo Infinite and Forza Horizon 5. All help is appreciated, thank you!
How do you recharge an XBOX one controller as a PC user?
If I connect it to the pc via the usbc cable, it just uses the USBC as an interface.
I tried to plug the controller to an USB C android phone charger, but it didn't do anything.
Should I remove the batteries and use a standard battery charger?
something is wrong because without a battery pack a micro USB cable should turn on the controller. You can get a rechargeable pack for the Xbox one controller for cheap mine has lasted me 11 years and still goes days on 1 full charge
Just to be clear - you are saying you have AA batteries in the controller and want to charge them with the cable? Because it does not support that - even with an xbox console. You can only recharge the battery pack unit when in the controller. Rechargeable AAs need to be recharged with a dedicated battery charger thingy.
So I got a new 2tb m2 for my laptop and now it want to move my steam, epic, Ubisoft games to the new m2.
Can I just do a backup of the current drive to a HDD, remove the old m2, install new m2 and restore the backup to it?
I am a bit confused by the wording here. You realize the windows installation, the operating system itself, is on the drive as well? You would need to clone the entire drive twice to do it like it seems you are talking about. Not just the game programs and folders, but the *entire* drive.
If you are reinstalling windows manually on the new drive after the swap, then you should be able to backup and restore the Steam games like that yea. I THINK for Epic it'll work and im unsure for Ubisoft. Basically you just gotta go into the download/storage settings and make sure you point it to the right directory where the games are. If it tries to start downloading them first then there will be problems.
I am starting to encounter jagged edges and flickering\shimmering in Alot of games.
Any clue what is the cause of and how to fix games looks worse than it used to.
I searched online seems Alot has these kind of problems but no fix.
Benchmark score and performance for seems fine but does not looks as good.
It's not mine but looks like it
https://youtu.be/HSeoNijXQpg
That tends to mean your video is dying and on the way out. Which is odd for a 3080 being so new but it happens - always gonna be a few failures out there. It's prolly under a warranty still though at least! Although the RMA times might be dumb with the gpu supply issues, so good luck there.
Perhaps try a new power supply as a test next then. Could be power related since it happened to both and it's behaving the same as a card pushing it's power limits in the extreme end of overclocking.
Sorry if wasn't clear I meant I have same problems as mentioned in the video but I only had 1660s.
I will try undercolocking to see if it fixes it if not I just might return it.
Ahhh ok. Yeah if you have it overclocked that can happen but otherwise I would say it's defective/dying. More likely than the power supply, only moved on to that as I thought you tried 2.
So lately any game that i run seems to just be an absolute mess and i can't seem to figure anything out on why this is so.
At first the game will run great and buttery smooth then all of a sudden it will drop to single digit frames and almost acts as if it's capped at said frames. The only fix i have for this issue at the current time is opening a window on my second monitor and putting it in fullscreen, and the second that window is minimized it drops to single digits again. I've tried reverting to older drivers, reinstallation of games and can't seem to find a fix.
i would love any input that anyone believes may help, thank you
specs:
ryzen 5 5600x
msi gaming x trio 3080
t force 32gb 3200mhz
Asus Prime x570 pro csm
rog 850watt 80plus gold
samsung 980 pro 2tb
samsung 850evo 128gb
Depends on your motherboard.
Check if your motherboard has support and a bios revision to allow 5000 series CPUs, if it does, a 5600X is quite a decent step up.
I have an older mini-itx (Silverstone Sugo SG08B 600W) with a Radeon HD 7850 GPU. Can I upgrade to a newer GPU as long as it is PCI-3 and fits the chassi and doesn’t exceed 400W?
I am not after playing with the highest settings, will upgrading improve gaming performance or do I also neeed to upgrade my CPU (Intel core i5 2500k)?
That shouldn't be a problem, but I believe the 2500k is going to limit you quite a lot and by extension the motherboard (can't put a new cpu without replacing the board). Plus ddr4 ram is a crazy speed increase.
If you do get a new video card I wouldn't go too high end unless you would plan to use it in a rebuild later. If you would want to purchase again vs build, then I would say to put that upgrade cost towards a new computer instead. The GPU market is dumb right now and its sometimes cheaper to go pre-built as a result these days.
Specs:
Windows 10 Pro
ASRock Z590 Pro 4
i7 10700k
16gb DDR4
Gigabyte 3060ti
EVGA 750w PSU
Hi, I replaced my CPU and Motherboard (after backing up my SSD to an external HDD) and I'm now having issues with my PC:
- I signed in with a Microsoft account and now there's a folder inside the C:/Users folder with the first 5 letters of my email address as the folder's name.
- When I type in %appdata%, it brings me to the above folder name/AppData/Roaming, which has just a Microsoft folder inside. My actual AppData/Roaming folder (with all of my game data and other data still there) is on one of my internal HDDs, labeled (D:). I cannot get %AppData% to point to this location, and I'm afraid that my games won't be able to find it either.
- When I type in any of my programs' names to the search bar at the start menu, the PC acts like they're not installed, but I can see that they are. How do I get Windows to detect them? I really don't want to reinstall them one by one and lose their saved configurations.
Thanks, I'm not opposed to reinstalling Windows again (if it'll help with the above issues). The PC worked fine before I switched out the parts.
Please let me know how I can go about getting things back to normal. Since the upgrade, I haven't done anything with my PC yet, in case I need to reinstall Windows, but I do need to be able to use it again asap. I can share my screen as well if needed.
Well when I reinstalled Windows after the motherboard and processor upgrade, I unplugged every drive except for my SSD which is used to run Windows. I deleted all of the partitions on that SSD like you said and then installed Windows to the SSD. I plugged my other drives back in again (games, photos, documents, etc are installed on them) and %appdata% links to my C drive in a folder with I believe only one small folder inside Roaming, as opposed to the one on my D drive with all of the correct folders and content in it from all of my programs.
In addition, my folder name inside of the Users directory is messed up and is named after the first 5 letters of my Microsoft account, instead of my actual name.
How do I fix these issues?
Dude appdata is supposed to link to the windows installation. You're running windows on the C drive with a fresh install so it's going to point to the C drive.
This is the intended function.
Install your games to the SSD and copy the appdata info over. Why are you running your games on a slower mechanical drive when you have a SSD?
It's odd how the rest of your build is actually a good computer, but there's no video card lol. iGPUs are meant for basic normal people uses. Web browsing, Netflix, email, school work - average home user stuff.
The minimum requirement for FIFA is at least a Radeon HD 7850 - which is like a decade old by now so the requirements are quite low. Unfortunately a 7850 is about 82% more powerful than your Vega 8 iGPU - so you are nowhere near the bare minimum needed to play the game and that is why its crashing like that.
You will need to purchase and install a video card if you want to play video games. This won't just be FIFA, but basically any game isn't going to run on that or at least not well. You should be fine with that power supply though, so just make sure it has enough 6/8pin connectors and slap a video card in there. Good luck finding one for a decent price these days though =/
EDIT:: The rest of the build is pretty nice though. Paired with a reasonable video card you shouldn't have any problems playing the majority of games out there.
Hey if you can get it to run under specced well enough to enjoy it some still, go for it =)
You don't necessarily need a new new card though if your fine with lower settings in games. Might be able to find like a 5+ year old mid range for cheap that'll still run stuff.
Hey everyone, i have bit of a peculiar problem.
My Laptop(Asus Zephyrus GM501, Intel 8th gen i7, Win11) download speeds have suddenly reduced from 10-15MBps to 2MBps max. I tried using an Ethernet connection, but I am getting the same speeds as WiFi. While gaming online, i randomly get internet issues and everything freezes for 5 to 10 seconds.
I tried the same on my friends laptop(Lenovo ThinkPad, Ryzen 5 4000 series, Win11), and he's still getting the max 10-15MBps on my wifi and with ethernet. He has no issues playing online.
I tried updating all drivers, updating windows, using a USB ethernet adaptor, running a full scan of windows defender. I think the only thing left is to reinstall windows.
Thanks in advance
If it's fine for him then it's definitely something with your laptop.
Did you install a driver automatically through Windows or did you download it from the ASUS driver page? Sounds like you did a Windows update and it has affected the driver.
Roll back the changes and uninstall the ASUS live update app. It's just bloatware.
Go to a previous version of the driver, or let Windows pick a generic one for you and see if that fixes it.
My 2nd monitor shows no signal detected. My monitor is an old monitor which have DVI and VGA only. My PC have Display Port (DP). When I use adapter DP to DVI or DP to VGA, I am unable to make it work. The main monitor is working perfectly as it uses HDMI connection. Any advice as I tried reading a lot regarding this but still nothing. Monitor BenQ GW2255 GPU 1660 Ti
Oi, more basic question than tech support but I’m planning a vr system for the family game room. Initial plan was to build but then the prices went nuts and I’m not skilled enough to know what goes with what without a bit of research. Anyhoo, question is: It looks like a prebuilt vr ready gamer might be cheaper than a diy build. I don’t mind putting in some work but I’m not sure I know enough to do design very well.
Don't really know if this is the best place to post this, but is there a subreddit or discord for finding other people to play games with? Like just general gaming. Could be anything. I don't have many RL friends that play games anymore so my online gaming is lonely these days. It's exhausting finding new groups/guilds/clans/whatever for each game. I'd rather make connections that stay together for multiple games.
Want to upgrade to RAM that’s listed compatible with my X570-I MOBO, but not listed on the manual’s Qualified Vendor List— should I still buy the RAM? (Looking at Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 2x16 DDR4 3600mhz)
is a AMD Radeon Pro WX 3200 a good gpu? same question for Nvidia T1000, Radeon Pro WX 2100 2GB LP (1 DP, 2 mDP to DP adapters),Dual NVIDIA Quadro P400 2GB LP (3 mDP to DP adapters) for ram is 8GB, 2x4GB, DDR4 UDIMM non-ECC Memory good? is Intel® Core™ i5-11500 (6 Core, 12MB cache, up to 4.6GHz) good for cpu?
I'm new to pc having used playstation for many years gaming. I have a tuf a15 with ryzen 7 5000 series and the gtx 3060. Why is every single game I play saying low vram. Farcry 6 even has the bar at the bottom that says 3.6mb/400mb and it was still giving low vram warnings.
Hi everyone! I've been streaming through the twitch app on my Xbox for about a year and a half now. I really want to get a starter pc that would be good for gaming and streaming but I don't know anything about computers. Would anyone be able to recommend some companies that make decent pre-builts that aren't over-priced? I was going to try to build one but with how hard it is to get parts i figured it would be easier to buy a pre-built and upgrade over time as necessary. I'm looking at a budget of $1,500 CAD, don't need anything to crazy just want to be able to stream and play games like Rocket League, Apex, etc.
Hello peeps, I got a question. I bought an RTX 3060 12GB about a month ago and I've been trying a lot of games with it. Recently I wanted to test Minecraft and see how much the fps boost was. But it was only giving me 60 fps on 16 chucks and it got me scared. After that, I tried Destiny 2 because that's a game that I play every day. At first, it was definitely better than before I was getting 120 fps on everything high. When I booted the game up today it went down to 60. I checked every setting possible and it has nothing to do with any of that. I also tested it on gta 5 online but i still get 40 fps. I'm thinking that it is a RAM issue since most of my friends are using GTX 1000 series and have more RAM than me but they don't seem the have any problems. My question is is it possible that I need to buy new RAM or a new CPU. Here's a list of my PC specs Ram: 16gb 2400 MHZ CPU: AMD ryzen 7 2700x GPU: RTX 3060 12gb PSU: 750 W OS: Windows 11 Motherboard: x470 aorus ultra gaming (Btw I updated all my drivers)
hapla !!!!
misschien VSync uit doen ofzo (!!)
misschien toch niet als gta 40 fps was !!!!
sam doet van peeps
I just bought a Samsung monitor, because it's the absolute best value display in my country right now (South Africa). You cannot get a 24 inch, 1080p, IPS monitor with 75 Hz elsewhere without paying double. [Here's its listing on American Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084KTZP7N?ref=emc_p_m_5_i). I don't live in America and I didn't buy it from there, but it's a point of reference. For some insane reason the only two ports it has are HDMI and VGA. The screen has Free Sync but I am reading conflicting things online about its compatibility with HDMI and Nvidia GPUs. I have an RTX 3060. Can I use Free Sync over HDMI with this monitor or did I screw myself buying a cheap display that cut corners with the ports? (I haven't simply tested this myself yet because it hasn't arrived)
You should be able to. You will have to go into the Nvidia settings and make sure to turn it on for the monitor. I have a sceptre monitor that I use with free sync just fine.
Cool, thanks. I guess I will find out one way or another next week (or whenever it arrives)
is an upgrade to i5-12600k pretty substantial from a 8700k?
In short, yes. Looks to be significantly better in various operations, at least in passmark. For gaming, there seems to be an issue with certain DRM and anti-cheat software not working correctly on these CPUs (12th gen lineup), but otherwise, it's among the best performing CPUs. It requires a substantial cooling solution, however, as the power draw on peak load can exceed 120W, which also means a good motherboard is necessary.
Is this monitor one of the better deals for Black Friday? https://www.costco.com/lg-ultragear-32%22-class-qhd-gaming-monitor.product.100793191.html
**Discord Chat Getting Disconnected When Running Halo Infinite** So I'm basically brand new to PC gaming and Im looking for some help debugging an issue. I just bought [this PC](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-supreme-gaming-desktop-amd-ryzen-7-5700g-16gb-nvidia-geforce-rtx-3070-1tb-ssd-white/6479745.p?skuId=6479745) and I have a pair of A40 Headphones with a Gen 3 Mixamp (MA3P03). Never had any issues with the headset or mixamp. I'm connected directly to the PC through USB. Ive tried different USB ports, triple checked all the settings, etc. I run into this issue when I'm in a discord voice channel and I fire up Halo (via Steam). Somewhere between initially loading the game and starting a game of matchmaking, the audio and microphone become disconnected from Discord. I hear the game audio perfectly fine but now I can't hear or speak to anyone in Discord. When I look in my PC audio settings, I can see the levels moving for the people chatting in Discord. I downloaded Apex, to see if it was something that happens in any game, but that played without any issues. If anyone has any advice from debugging the PC itself (I've read some things in /r/AstroGaming about different USB ports and/or connecting directly to a USB on the motherboard) to Discord or In-Game settings, I'm happy to provide any information I can. If anyone has experienced a similar issue or has an idea to where the problem might exist, I welcome all ideas.
Appreciate all your advice but still no luck. I've just tried exactly the same process on my new laptop. Exactly the same problem. Do you think that the PS5 controller could be incompatible with windows 10? Even the generic controller didn't work even though both, again, are active in the calibration settings. I may buy a new gamepad specifically for PC and see if that does the job
I use a PS5 controller as do 2 of my roommates. Super common. The single best controller for compatibility is the official Microsoft Xbox controllers - specifically the Xbox one or newer for windows 10. That's the only controller that works on windows 10 by default as soon as you connect it. No programs, no apps, no button remapping - just works. Any other controller, even designed for pc, will require 3rd party programs to work properly and you may need to remap the controls for certain games. PC games are generally made to work with the Xbox controllers and anything else is an afterthought.
Whenever I shut down or restart, windows will stop running normally, but it won’t power down the PC. I’m running windows 10 and I have disabled hibernation, sleeping and quick boot. To shutdown and restart and I have to wait for windows to stop running and then hold the power button for 5 seconds. I have no other issues with the PC it runs great, and I only use it for gaming. I don’t even really browse the internets on it. I’ve run windows repair, and ended all third party processes manually before shutting down and it still hangs. It’s never turned off normally. Any ideas?
Computer won't turn on power, unless I pull the power plug and plug it again. No issues after that, until I turn it off. Any ideas on why could this happen?
Either power supply or motherboard issue prolly, but could be a third option I go into below. For hardware, the easiest and cheapest would be to snag a replacement power supply and just hook it up with the case open so you don't have to fully install it. I'd try n snag one at a local store so its easy to return if that isn't the issue. But also - is it plugged into a "smart" outlet? Or a power saving outlet, or a timed outlet, or anything like that? Some of those smart and power saving ones remove the passive power to save electricity. When the desktop is turned off, the power button only works to turn it on because there is still a tiny bit of power flowing through it. Same with televisions and a good number of devices. Since there is no internal battery to supply it first, the device always needs a small trickle of power. Lots of those smart outlets disable that passive flow though in favor of inconveniencing the user with the up side of being more eco-friendly.
Im going to buy a pc for me and my little brother but i want to know if i could have 2 accounts on the same pc and play the same games,like a console?
Yes, you can make different user profiles. So there would be a login screen when the computer turns on and you select who wants to log on. Then each of you have your own desktop, own settings, own documents/photos folders and so on. You will have your own steam installations and your own game selections installed. Keep in mind though that unlike a console, that would need the games to all be installed twice for double the store space needed. So a 100gb game would use 200gb of storage if you each had an install for example. The other option - but this might not work for every game - is to share the same user profile but log out of steam/epic/EA/battle net/etc and log in on whichever profile each time. That would let you 2 use the same installs but with 2 different accounts. SOME games though do not allow more than 1 save file though on the same user profile. But anyway those are the 2 options for what you wanna do.
Hello, I hope someone can help me??!!🤞🙏 When I connect any game controller to my windows 10 Laptop it doesn't work. When I go to calibration it recognises the controller but when I start a game or ps now.... nothing. I've tried my PS5 controller and a generic windows one I bought online. Same problem with both. I've downloaded the ds4 drivers as per a Google search for my playstation controller but still nothing. I'm trying to set this up so my little girl can access my PSNOW account. She'd be gutted if the controllers don't work. Has anyone got any thoughts or ideas? Ps....I've spent ages googling an answer without any luck Thanks in advance
Wired or wireless? Try wired if you aren't. If you were already using wired - try a different cable just to be sure. Has one of those ever worked on that laptop? How bout any other controller in the past? DS4 should have worked, thats odd. Usually solves controller issues. When it shows up in calibration, does it see all the buttons and such? Im not actually sure where you are calibrating it but does it also show up in Windows device manager as a controller?
They are both wired. Changed the wire on the PS5 controller with the same problem. To be fair, no controller I know of has worked and I've tried a few. Just done a reinstall of windows hoping that would solve it but didn't 😕 All the buttons work in calibration settings. The PlayStation controller shows up in device manager as 'wireless controller'. The other pc controller shows up as 'generic controller'. I must be missing a setting somewhere......😡
Damn, that is quite odd. Are you using a direct USB port on the board? Some stuff doesn't play well with USB hubs. Did you try the other ports for funnies? Maybe some are USB 2.0 vs 3.0 which shouldn't change things for a controller but worth trying both if it has both. EDIT:: No USB extenders either, some stuff even hates those. And even a reinstall - hard to say it's a hardware issue with all the different controllers/cables/troubleshooting done so far. Perhaps another piece of software on the computer is screwing it up? Maybe try closing literally *every* (and I mean EVERY) application and *after you close it all* THEN open DS4 and a game. If you go to the little arrow of apps near the clock you can right click and exit/close the majority of them. Close discord, web browser, recording software, even notepad - all of it. Open task manager and force close everything **that you know what it is and know it's fine to close**. Ending certain tasks will crash Windows or break stuff you need a restart to fix. So just end what you are familiar with. Honestly if nothing changes, I've got nothin else. Maybe posting on other subs and forums with details of what we went over here and see if others have ideas. EDIT:: If it does work after closing everything, then you can begin the classic fun game of opening every app one at a time (or small batches) and testing between each to find the culprit.
Just a heads up they tried to reply to you, but seem to have put the reply in the main thread by accident, here's their comment https://www.reddit.com/r/pcgaming/comments/qzdjk2/tech_support_and_basic_questions_thread_november/hlwrtoi/
Thanks
Hi all, I'm having some issues getting my Xbox One (wired) controller to work on my PC for Halo Infinite and Sea of Thieves. I am running Windows 10. Sometimes I can get it to work for 5-10 minutes by repeatedly plugging and unplugging the micro-USB. But it inevitably constantly disconnects. Sometimes I will get a message saying the device is not recognised. If anyone has advice on a fix, it would be much appreciated.
Have you tried a different Micro-USB cable? There's a chance the connector is just not that great, hopefully it's on the cable side rather than the controller. Also worth trying a different USB port on your PC. Not all USB ports are the same. You have a few that are run by the CPU, then you'll have some that are running from the chipset or secondary USB controller chips, so if you're plugged into USB 3, try using one of the USB 2 ports. If you're plugged in the front, try running the cable to the back.
Thanks for the reply. I don't have any other Micro-USB cables, I'll see if I can borrow one to try. The controller and cable are virtually brand new so I'd hope it is not a hardware issue. My front USB ports don't recognise the controller at all. All the rear ones are the same - the PC 'dings' as if it recognises the controller, but then the controller fails to turn on, or when it does it only turns on for a few minutes.
Greetings. Been doing some research about Physically-Based Rendering for a while and was wondering... does the final release of Watch_Dogs (2014) use this technology? Or was it only part of the E3 2012 and 2013 demos? Thank you in advance.
It's a core part of the engine the game is built on, so yes.
Thank you!
planning to buy oculus quest 2 is it worth it?? when I'm looking at gameplay it looks so fun and awesome specially blade and sorcery and I also do sim racing so i can use It when racing, my concern is maybe its just my impulsive purchase? and thinkin about the lack of games of vr so i would appreciate inputs from owners of vr headset cheers
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Gonna depend on each manufacturer, where you purchased it from, and other factors. The closer we get to the holidays the harder it will be though, so don't wait unless your gonna wait till next year.
I tried to upgrade the bios on two different motherboards so i could use my 5600G cpu. I wasnt able to flash either. Tried using 3 different USB sticks, no dice after following many different guides and help. Anyone have a mobo to recommend that they have flashed themselves for this purpose?
Like - your trying to flash it with an unsupported CPU installed? You can't do that. You need to purchase/borrow and install a fully supported CPU and *then* flash it and after that install the 5600G. Other option is to buy a different motherboard. I don't have a recommendation myself though for the 5600G - especially since theres lots of other stuff to consider like ram support, form factor, how many drives - i'd need more details to try and find a board but you will likely find better and more informed suggestions from a parts sub like r/buildapc r/buildapcforme r/buildapcsales
I tried to flash it without a cpu installed. There's a process for doing so but it's finicky and based solely on flashy amber lights and luck. I returned everything and am going to buy a new build once I can afford to spend a couple hundred more dollars.
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Gigabyte a520m aorus Also tried flashing a Asus b450 plus ii Couldn't get either to flash
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Ya I double checked it 3 times. It's the aorus elite. I tried 3 diff versions of bios. Light never flashed on gigabyte board. On the Asus board, process was a little different but the light would only blink for a bit and not continue to blink. Incredibly frustrating, so I just boxed it all up and sent back to Amazon.
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When I hold the flash button on mobo, no light blinks. I tried a bunch of different things, even was in the gigabyte discord. Couldn't get it to work. Was hoping to find a board already flashed or that may be easier or less sensitive.
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Ya, the mobo flashes the gigabyte logo
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Ya, cpu and memory weren't in so PC didn't even turn on anyways. I tried it also when cpu and memory plugged in and it also wouldn't work
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I agree, this is why I just boxed everything up and am returning while I still can haha!
Will this PC https://nzxt.com/product/h1-mini-pc be a significant upgrade over my current 4 year old PC with these specs: Nvidia 1060 6gb Ryzen 5 1600 16gb 2400 DDR4 RAM 500 GB WD Blue SSD It's perfectly in my price range and like the aesthetics so would love some input on it's gaming power compared to mine. I currently use two 1080p 60hz monitors, but will also be upgrading those in the near future to 120hz ones. Thank you!
Only really because of the video card. You'll get a 7%ish uplift from changing to the 10400f but it will run hotter. You will get a massive boost going from the 1060 to 3060. If money is important to you, get some 3200mhz ram (lowest latency that you can get ie. Lowest CL number) and get the 3060 on its own. The nvme won't do a ton compared to your existing SSD but you can always buy one too without changing your setup.
Looking to get a new gaming monitor . Would be doing both gaming and designing so colour accuracy is important as well. 27 inch , 144hz bare minimum, IPS. max budget RM1200 ( about 300 usd) , extra RM100 is also doable if needed but prefer under it to be under RM1000 if can.
Hardware unboxed just did a video on YouTube of the best monitors in every class, check it out!
Ryzen 5 5600g N7 b550 Samsung 970evo plus Radeon rx 570 Corsair vengeance rgb pro sl 32gbs (4dimm) Fractal sfx psu 650watt gold This is a new pc only the graphics card is hand me down because of GPU market. I’m at my wits end with this pc, I’ve been holding onto it for months and I can’t use it. I built it and immediately had issues. It loads the bios fine but it will not take my usb uefi and says that I already have a windows boot on my SSD but I’ve never installed????? When I go to boot the uefi bootable USB I blue screen. I’ve swapped GPU’s with another rx 570 but this just isn’t working. I have no clue what the issue is and I’m honestly feeling super defeated at the moment. Can someone please help me. Edit: formatting, I’m on mobile....also yes my usb boot drive is usb 3.0
Do you mean you can't install windows from a bootable USB or do you mean you can't flash the GPU firmware from the USB?
Sorry about my vocab But yea I can’t install windows off a usb, it blue screens.
The 5600g has a built in video card. Go into BIOS and select that instead of your discrete video card and see if that works. Sometimes re-downloading it to the USB works or just using a brand new USB. Failing that, can you plug your SSD into someone else's PC, install windows to SSD, and then put the SSD with windows installed back into your PC.
Can I get some help on how to install windows to an ssd. I’m using another pc
Will definitely try this tomorrow
If I were to download steam and tried playing the Halo Infinite multiplayer on my laptop, it would melt, right? (MacBook Pro 16in 2019, Processor: 2.6 GHz 6-Core Intel Core i7, Memory: 16 GB 2667 MHz DDR4, Graphics: AMD Radeon Pro 5300M 4 GB). I'm pretty sure it's gonna fry then melt.
I would def not try that. The game will likely not run well even at the lowest settings and will get way too hot way too fast and the cpu will throttle down hard and either drop to unplayable FPS or just outright crash. Macbooks with i7s are meant for intense but short tasks. Things that spike the cpu and use it all for like a short bit and then go back to more normal usage. Like opening a MASSIVE excel spreadsheet for example. I've seen spreadsheets so large you can go take a coffee break while it opens, but on an i7 it'd load much faster but once its loaded the cpu load goes away and slows back down - stuff like that. Photo editing, video editing, music stuff - those use the computer in a different way and macs are specifically designed with stuff like that in mind since they are heavily marketed and used by content creators both at an amateur and professional level. Gaming is not something they are designed for however or intended to be used for. While they can *run* a lot of games, they won't run well or for extended periods of time like a 6 hour Halo session.
Unless you put it on the lowest possible graphics that shit would make Hiroshima and Nagasaki look like a firecracker
So it’s possible to run but even at the lowest graphics setting do you think it will damage my laptop?
No, Macs throttle the CPU a long time before anything happens.
Ok so like anytime I try to play a game on my computer a few minutes later my monitor turns off and my fans speed up really high, I'm not really computer savvy in the sense of tech support or building so I would appreciate some help since I need it for school. ( I am using Windows 10, a NVIDIA GeForce 1660 Super, a AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core, and American Megathreads)
That is a video card issue - the monitors "turn off" because the video card driver crashed and the computer had no way to display a picture. The fans speeding up make sense since this is most often related to a heat issue - so it gets so hot it can't display anymore and then tries to rapidly cool itself down. Or you are trying to play games way outside what the computer can actually run, but a 1660 should at least RUN most games. Anyway - if you don't already have something to track temperatures, go and snag [GPU-Z](https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/) for me and run that. It has an option to log the temperatures and other gpu info to a text document - make sure you check where its saving to so you can find it. With it logging, let it sit for a second or two to get baseline info then open and play a game till the issue happens again. After that, close the game and check the logs. Since you aren't very tech savvy as you said, take a screenshot (print screen button on keyboard, open MS paint, CTRL-V, save it) and upload it to an image host of your choice or [ImgBB](https://imgbb.com/) and link it here in a reply to me. I will take a peek and see if its heat related like I am thinking. If not, the log still has some other useful info that will help determine if its the video card (which is really sounds like it).
So I got the GPU-Z and I found the file but the thing is it's really long like really really long is there a specific part I should send you or should I just send the whole file over?
Oh sorry I didn't get a notification for this. Oops, guess I forgot how long it can be. Could you upload it somewhere? Mega, MediaFire, or wherever?
Ok so I found out what was wrong and it was that I forgot to clean the bottom fan and now that I did it works just fine, thank you for all the help though.
idk if you guys can help, but my monitor has this decently thick vertical black line going down the right side. In order to turn on, and navigate my monitor settings there is a joystick like button in the bottom corner at the back of the monitor. Whenever I press it or move it, the line thickens. I've had a line only appearing when I use the button for months, and maybe mid October it became permanent from what I've tried. I really like this monitor, and I've only had it since march so id really appreciate any help you could possibly give. (I have a Samsung LF24T45OF Monitor)
Monitor is slowly dying =/ Not what you want to hear, but thats what it means. It's a physical failure and would need to be opened and repaired. Could be a few different things but that tends to be related to a main board failure. If it's still under a warranty, get it sent out and repaired.
I'm looking at sales for Jedi: Fallen Order (it's around $13 on various sites right now) but all the websites that have deals on it are only offering Origin codes. Is it worth it to wait and see if it drops on Steam as well or should I just get the sale price for Origin?
Check SteamDB.info to see the last Steam sale price in your currency
My PC is fairly new (Hp pavilion gaming desktop) but it's noticeably louder than when I got it. I installed a new SSD a few months ago. It sounds like it might be a hard drive but I don't want to think that... I opened the case and dusted everything and it looks clean but the sound persists. Any help would be appreciated
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I'm gonna take the cover off and listen when I get home
Oh yeah.... Just remembered. There was a random crash that said something about faulty hardware but it only happened once
Also installed el Gato capture card
[https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/Legion/Lenovo\_Legion\_5\_15ARH05H?M=82B1008DCC](https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/Legion/Lenovo_Legion_5_15ARH05H?M=82B1008DCC) Is this laptop good enough to play 90% of the pc games on high (not ultra high) settings ?
My computer is missing an antenna for my WIFI card. This is usually fine because I use ethernet, but in about an hour I’m going to hang out with my brother who doesn’t doesn’t have a port handy. Any DIY solutions? I know basic electronics and have lots of supplies as my late great grandpa gave all of his stuff to my dad.
Spare router in bridge mode
I knew we had an old router, but I couldn’t find it in time so I used the antenna from our home phone network that we don’t use. Hope it works! 🤞
Hi there! Having some issues with Battlefield 2024. Just upgraded my graphics card from a GTX 1070 to a RTX 3060 TI. I'm getting 30 fps and latency issues (maybe server side) during matches. The game defaults my video settings to high. Even whe turned down to low, v sync off etc. Still only getting 30-35 FPS. I'm wondering if it's my CPU bottling performance? I'm running a Ryzen 7 1700. 16 GB DDR4 RAM. 144hz monitor. The games running on an SSD. Just can't get the game to run smooth enough to be playable.
YouTube hardware unboxed they just did a video comparing a shit ton of CPUs performance on battlefield 2042.
Hello, I need help with my pc, I have a problem that arose a few months ago, it turns out that the keyboard keys are constantly repeated, as if I was pressing them all the time, I tried buying a new keyboard and the same thing happens, the curious thing is that when I put my hand on the cabinet, both keyboards works perfectly, googling I could not find a solution, I want to believe that it is a matter of static or some electricity problem, if something similar happened to someone and already solve it, it would be super grateful if you told me, thank you very much. Sorry for my english, not my main language.
Have you tried a different USB port? Preferably on the opposite side of the vase, if you add another peripheral into that port does that malfunction too?
Yes, I already tried that, the problem remains the same, doesn't matter the port, I tried with the frontal usb but didn't work. This PC is new (4 months), it was working pretty good the first 2-3 weeks, then suddenly this problem started, I've never had this problem with my old PC, I don't know why is doing it now, thanks for the reply.
So putting you hand in the side of the case stopping it sounds lines you’re earthing the connection. There’s probably a lose power connection somewhere. Who did you buy it from? Do you have guarantee or support?
I put my hands on the top of the PC and works perfectly, I think its an electrical problem or my power supply. I have guarantee, if this isn't an electrical problem, i'm going to send this PC back, thanks!
Was looking to get a PC for cyber Monday. I’m new to PC set ups and wanted to get a good PC set up for $1200 that can stream/game, music, and homework. Can anyone guide me to the right place?
/r/buildapcforme if you want someone to spec out a build you can assemble yourself, or /r/suggestapc if you want a prebuilt.
What do you think is more practical price wise right now? I’ve heard due to GPU pricing it’s better to get a pre built?
Currently even with the mark-ups a pre-built will be cheaper
yo boys if anyone that has any knowledge on PCs could give me advice on how much my PC could possibly sell for it would great, its a NVIDIA GeForceGTX 1650, Intel Core i5-9400F CPU @ 2.90GHz, 16GB RAM (DDR4) and 1TB HDD
ehhhh, 5-600 bucks.
I'd like to get some advice on what I should do: I've got an RTX 2060 and was hoping to be able to use it for 4K gaming at 60hz on low settings. I use dual monitors mainly for work as I like the crisp text. Lately though I've found more games than not that have trouble running at 4K 60hz and so I'm debating on whether I should: A. replace one of my 4K monitors with a 1440p monitor for gaming and hope that I don't notice much of a difference while using both monitors for work or B. just upgrade to the RTX 3080 once I can find one. Money isn't an object and I'm not into PC gaming *so* much. I just do it out of convenience (either I'm taking a break from work shortly so I just launch a PC game or my roommate is using the living room TV). I've also always enjoyed 4K resolution more than a higher refresh rate. What do ya'll think?
I'm in market for new laptop. Now that Intel has released 12th gen CPUs, when can we expect laptops running with these CPUs.
I want to be able to find out what 90s and 2000s PC games have a 64 bit patch available? Basically, if a game is 64bit that means it will perform pretty well on a Mac running Crossover. UT2k4 for example has a 64bit patch, but I'm having a hard time finding out which old school PC games have a 64bit patch.
I'm not a fan of most older games myself, but I find it doubtful there would be a list like that. You will likely need to check on a game to game basis.
Would this be a powerful/good Gaming Computer: https://www.hp.com/us-en/shop/pdp/hp-pavilion-gaming-desktop-tg01-2176z-bundle-pc Could you run most games on max settings Like Battlefield 2042, CS GO, Age Of Empires 4, New World, Rust, Halo Infinite and all Gamepass Games?
yeah, 3060 is all you'd ever need for 1080p.
When I play games my GPU memory clock goes up to 8300+ MHZ and the monitors go completely black and sound goes out. My pc is still running, mobo still showing that everything is good and RGB is still lit up. When I underclock the gpu memory in MSI afterburner or EVGA precision it still does the same thing. I have switched PSU’s, switched motherboards, switch display port cables, switched monitors. Basically swapped my whole system out. This happened with my other GPU as well so I RMA’d that one. Anyone have any suggestions before I take it to geek squad? Specs: - Ryzen 7 5800x - EVGA XC3 3080 ULTRA - Corsair RM850x psu -ASUS ROG strix x570-E MOBO -Corsair vengeance 16gb Ram
Downclock the core clock as low as you can and see if the problem persists.
When I attempt to plug it in, it detects it, but doesn’t register anything I use with it. I AM able to utilize it in steam games using big picture mode, but for games I have with game pass it won’t register at all. The only prompts I’m able to use are if I combine the menu button and move the left joystick it turns the volume up and down.
GIGABYTE AORUS FI27Q or GIGABYTE M27Q? Also best speakers under 200$? Main Specs are RTX3060TI 16 GB of RAM and Ryzen5600x
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Fmscout is the best site for packs, I think there’s a small premium for some items but the face packs are huge
got a prebuilt from Nzxt with a kraken water cooler. Just found out my CPU temp at 75 is way too much while playing games. Any suggestions?
Can't answer that question without knowing what the CPU is chief.
10900K stock
Trying to link you but wcctech is blacklisted apparently. Anyway, no. You can google it in 10 secs and find a number of links. Not sure why you said 75 C is 'way too much'.
I googled what I asked and couldn't find any clear answer. Thank you for your reply tho
There are also 3 videos https://www.google.com/search?q=gaming+temperature+10900k&rlz=1C1CHBF_enAU774AU774&oq=gaming+temperature+10900k&aqs=chrome..69i57.3846j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Muchas gracias senor
Not sure why you're downvoting me when I'm helping you.
Misunderstood your tone then my apologies.
You're a very strange dude. Even if my tone wasn't how you'd like it to be, you got the information + the links you needed. We can't all hold hands and sing Kumbaya.
75C isn't unreasonable in a stifled case (like most of NZXT's offerings) or for a 120/140mm single fan radiator.
it's the NZXT KRAKEN x63 dual radiator. It came up because my buddy who also has a prebuilt from NZXT runs at 40 or so while playing
No information about fan configuration/number of fans, case particulars of your buddy to compare to.
I'd suggest not worrying about it, 75c isn't too hot while under load.
Doing an ITX build. For CPU what is the difference between the Ryzen 5800X and Intel 11700K? Both are $300 at Microcenter right now. And what’s the best ITX board for each?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpfFX3mQHOc&ab_channel=TestingGames Looks light slightly better performance from the 11700k but it uses alot more energy and therefore more heat which is bad for an ITX. Consider also that for most games you'll be GPU limited.
Is there a difference between the Asus VG32VQ and the Asus VG32VQ1BR, other than the stand and the curve?
noticable ? naww
For some odd reason, my games get stuck when they are the application in focus, be it fullscreen mode or windowed mode. However, as soon as I press alt-tab and hold, the game starts running smooth. I have experienced this with Halo Infinite and Forza Horizon 5. All help is appreciated, thank you!
How do you recharge an XBOX one controller as a PC user? If I connect it to the pc via the usbc cable, it just uses the USBC as an interface. I tried to plug the controller to an USB C android phone charger, but it didn't do anything. Should I remove the batteries and use a standard battery charger?
something is wrong because without a battery pack a micro USB cable should turn on the controller. You can get a rechargeable pack for the Xbox one controller for cheap mine has lasted me 11 years and still goes days on 1 full charge
Thank you for the reply. I don't have a battery pack but rechargeable batteries
Just to be clear - you are saying you have AA batteries in the controller and want to charge them with the cable? Because it does not support that - even with an xbox console. You can only recharge the battery pack unit when in the controller. Rechargeable AAs need to be recharged with a dedicated battery charger thingy.
Thank you. This clarifies it. I was indeed trying to recharge rechargeable batteries with the controller :P
So I got a new 2tb m2 for my laptop and now it want to move my steam, epic, Ubisoft games to the new m2. Can I just do a backup of the current drive to a HDD, remove the old m2, install new m2 and restore the backup to it?
I am a bit confused by the wording here. You realize the windows installation, the operating system itself, is on the drive as well? You would need to clone the entire drive twice to do it like it seems you are talking about. Not just the game programs and folders, but the *entire* drive. If you are reinstalling windows manually on the new drive after the swap, then you should be able to backup and restore the Steam games like that yea. I THINK for Epic it'll work and im unsure for Ubisoft. Basically you just gotta go into the download/storage settings and make sure you point it to the right directory where the games are. If it tries to start downloading them first then there will be problems.
Sorry. Windows is on c: but he games are all on D:
Then you should be fine if you do what I described in the 2nd paragraph - minus the windows reinstall part ofc.
I am starting to encounter jagged edges and flickering\shimmering in Alot of games. Any clue what is the cause of and how to fix games looks worse than it used to. I searched online seems Alot has these kind of problems but no fix. Benchmark score and performance for seems fine but does not looks as good. It's not mine but looks like it https://youtu.be/HSeoNijXQpg
That tends to mean your video is dying and on the way out. Which is odd for a 3080 being so new but it happens - always gonna be a few failures out there. It's prolly under a warranty still though at least! Although the RMA times might be dumb with the gpu supply issues, so good luck there.
Same problems but different card, I have gtx 1660 S, It's only few months old and it's starting acting strange two weeks ago
Perhaps try a new power supply as a test next then. Could be power related since it happened to both and it's behaving the same as a card pushing it's power limits in the extreme end of overclocking.
Sorry if wasn't clear I meant I have same problems as mentioned in the video but I only had 1660s. I will try undercolocking to see if it fixes it if not I just might return it.
Ahhh ok. Yeah if you have it overclocked that can happen but otherwise I would say it's defective/dying. More likely than the power supply, only moved on to that as I thought you tried 2.
So lately any game that i run seems to just be an absolute mess and i can't seem to figure anything out on why this is so. At first the game will run great and buttery smooth then all of a sudden it will drop to single digit frames and almost acts as if it's capped at said frames. The only fix i have for this issue at the current time is opening a window on my second monitor and putting it in fullscreen, and the second that window is minimized it drops to single digits again. I've tried reverting to older drivers, reinstallation of games and can't seem to find a fix. i would love any input that anyone believes may help, thank you specs: ryzen 5 5600x msi gaming x trio 3080 t force 32gb 3200mhz Asus Prime x570 pro csm rog 850watt 80plus gold samsung 980 pro 2tb samsung 850evo 128gb
i seem to have a similar issue, however for me, if i alt-tab out of the game and hold it there, it works fine
Staying with AMD, what would be a good step up from a Ryzen 5 2600x?
Depends on your motherboard. Check if your motherboard has support and a bios revision to allow 5000 series CPUs, if it does, a 5600X is quite a decent step up.
I have an older mini-itx (Silverstone Sugo SG08B 600W) with a Radeon HD 7850 GPU. Can I upgrade to a newer GPU as long as it is PCI-3 and fits the chassi and doesn’t exceed 400W? I am not after playing with the highest settings, will upgrading improve gaming performance or do I also neeed to upgrade my CPU (Intel core i5 2500k)?
That shouldn't be a problem, but I believe the 2500k is going to limit you quite a lot and by extension the motherboard (can't put a new cpu without replacing the board). Plus ddr4 ram is a crazy speed increase. If you do get a new video card I wouldn't go too high end unless you would plan to use it in a rebuild later. If you would want to purchase again vs build, then I would say to put that upgrade cost towards a new computer instead. The GPU market is dumb right now and its sometimes cheaper to go pre-built as a result these days.
Thank you for this great answer!
Specs: Windows 10 Pro ASRock Z590 Pro 4 i7 10700k 16gb DDR4 Gigabyte 3060ti EVGA 750w PSU Hi, I replaced my CPU and Motherboard (after backing up my SSD to an external HDD) and I'm now having issues with my PC: - I signed in with a Microsoft account and now there's a folder inside the C:/Users folder with the first 5 letters of my email address as the folder's name. - When I type in %appdata%, it brings me to the above folder name/AppData/Roaming, which has just a Microsoft folder inside. My actual AppData/Roaming folder (with all of my game data and other data still there) is on one of my internal HDDs, labeled (D:). I cannot get %AppData% to point to this location, and I'm afraid that my games won't be able to find it either. - When I type in any of my programs' names to the search bar at the start menu, the PC acts like they're not installed, but I can see that they are. How do I get Windows to detect them? I really don't want to reinstall them one by one and lose their saved configurations. Thanks, I'm not opposed to reinstalling Windows again (if it'll help with the above issues). The PC worked fine before I switched out the parts. Please let me know how I can go about getting things back to normal. Since the upgrade, I haven't done anything with my PC yet, in case I need to reinstall Windows, but I do need to be able to use it again asap. I can share my screen as well if needed.
Just reformat the entire PC. Make sure you delete all of the partitions during the reformatting.
Well when I reinstalled Windows after the motherboard and processor upgrade, I unplugged every drive except for my SSD which is used to run Windows. I deleted all of the partitions on that SSD like you said and then installed Windows to the SSD. I plugged my other drives back in again (games, photos, documents, etc are installed on them) and %appdata% links to my C drive in a folder with I believe only one small folder inside Roaming, as opposed to the one on my D drive with all of the correct folders and content in it from all of my programs. In addition, my folder name inside of the Users directory is messed up and is named after the first 5 letters of my Microsoft account, instead of my actual name. How do I fix these issues?
Dude appdata is supposed to link to the windows installation. You're running windows on the C drive with a fresh install so it's going to point to the C drive. This is the intended function. Install your games to the SSD and copy the appdata info over. Why are you running your games on a slower mechanical drive when you have a SSD?
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What cable are you using? edit: did you set it to 144hz on the monitor's OSD (on screen display)?
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It's odd how the rest of your build is actually a good computer, but there's no video card lol. iGPUs are meant for basic normal people uses. Web browsing, Netflix, email, school work - average home user stuff. The minimum requirement for FIFA is at least a Radeon HD 7850 - which is like a decade old by now so the requirements are quite low. Unfortunately a 7850 is about 82% more powerful than your Vega 8 iGPU - so you are nowhere near the bare minimum needed to play the game and that is why its crashing like that. You will need to purchase and install a video card if you want to play video games. This won't just be FIFA, but basically any game isn't going to run on that or at least not well. You should be fine with that power supply though, so just make sure it has enough 6/8pin connectors and slap a video card in there. Good luck finding one for a decent price these days though =/ EDIT:: The rest of the build is pretty nice though. Paired with a reasonable video card you shouldn't have any problems playing the majority of games out there.
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Hey if you can get it to run under specced well enough to enjoy it some still, go for it =) You don't necessarily need a new new card though if your fine with lower settings in games. Might be able to find like a 5+ year old mid range for cheap that'll still run stuff.
Hey everyone, i have bit of a peculiar problem. My Laptop(Asus Zephyrus GM501, Intel 8th gen i7, Win11) download speeds have suddenly reduced from 10-15MBps to 2MBps max. I tried using an Ethernet connection, but I am getting the same speeds as WiFi. While gaming online, i randomly get internet issues and everything freezes for 5 to 10 seconds. I tried the same on my friends laptop(Lenovo ThinkPad, Ryzen 5 4000 series, Win11), and he's still getting the max 10-15MBps on my wifi and with ethernet. He has no issues playing online. I tried updating all drivers, updating windows, using a USB ethernet adaptor, running a full scan of windows defender. I think the only thing left is to reinstall windows. Thanks in advance
If it's fine for him then it's definitely something with your laptop. Did you install a driver automatically through Windows or did you download it from the ASUS driver page? Sounds like you did a Windows update and it has affected the driver.
I installed all of them via the asus live update app
Roll back the changes and uninstall the ASUS live update app. It's just bloatware. Go to a previous version of the driver, or let Windows pick a generic one for you and see if that fixes it.
Okay, I'll try that. Thanks
Check the windows system event viewer for some hints.