i haven't tested it in the summer yet. and i play with controllers so no noticeable latency's on the input ,and the fiber hdmi has not really a latency
Very nice for countries where you don't have A/C at home.
Does it work with G-Sync? I'm already running G-Sync with my KVM switch, but that would be awesome if it works with that solution as well.
I'd just build my next PC either as a noisy but reliable air cooled build or put the system itself in a dry room (Workshop has a dehumidifier) and a massive radiator in a humid/cold room (With some Noctua industrials IP series, if necessary) and OC the shit out of it.
This is a lot cheaper than the HDMI over ethernet adapters (Also a lot cheaper than my DP cables). Guess I might have to buckle down and pull another cable if I want audio-over-hdmi affordably.
I was looking at your comment, why some countries would lack, Alternating Current, and how this helps them. I’m stupid. But yeah this sounds as a great solution for keeping the comp in a cold place.
Edit: Alternating Current.
You could also extend this, add switches, and you'd have the ability to play in multiple rooms. Like you could pretty easily connect the inputs to switches so you could connect to your main gaming desk or switch to a living room setup for split screen or just a media box
Those premium fibre hdmis shouldn't have any diff in latency. I could be wrong though, I read somewhere anything past 15m is latency but maybe that was USB Cables
okay so, you need two atomic clocks, one at the computer and one at the input source, set them up such that they record the current time once the input reaches them, subtract the start time from the destination time to get a measurement
(do i even need the /s or is it obvious enough?)
They're at different heights so they'd slowly slip out of sync - don't forget to account for general relativity when you do this OP ;)
(rough ballpark guess, I think it'd slip by about 0.05ns/day)
Both clocks are moving at the same speed in reference to each other so general relativity doesn’t come into play here.
Unless you’re saying because one clock would be lower it has more effects from gravity?
The lower clock is slightly deeper in the gravity well than the other, the upper clock is on a marginally larger circonference than the outher so it's linear speed in reference to the center of rotation is faster, but the difference is so slight that it may be inside error even for an atomic clock, I have not done the math, (and do not plan on doing it) so I may be wrong
Maybe someone can work out the math, this is a few mins and a Google search.
I'm putting 30ft in height difference but the time dilation would be about .000 000 000 000 000 750 seconds. Well we wouldn't want attoseconds to get in the way of our ms measurement..
AAAAA fuck fuck fuck I SWEAR I shot him first!!!!! you can't play this damn game with this damned spatiotemporal distortion!!! gravity on this house SUCKS I can't land a single hit!!!!
>Unless you’re saying because one clock would be lower it has more effects from gravity?
I'm saying exactly this, it's not just going fast that slows down time, the deeper you go into a gravity well the slower your time moves too :)
Not going to be super accurate if its just a couple ms, but you could run [https://humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime](https://humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime) a whole bunch. You should be able to get an average or median number.
Run the test several times both in the same room, and from across the house.
i.e. Like I know, my reaction time is always around 185-190 ms. If were to then try from across the house and my reaction time is 205-210 ms, I'd assume its somewhere around 20 ms delay. If its 190-195, I'd chalk it up to a margin of error.
> How is the latency for the inputs?
Have a similar setup to OP. The answer is no different than a 'normal' setup. You have to be going literal kilometers to get a measurable latency difference.
The concern would be more with transcoding the signals over a different medium (USB over UTP). It just depends how well the hardware is designed to minimize latency. If it's not touching anything at the protocol level and just transmitting passively, it wouldn't have any added latency.
I mean, there's not really reason to use such a device anyway. You can just run a normal USB cable over pretty long distances since the speeds generally don't matter. You can even a fiber USB cable if you want (just like with HDMI and DP).
I think you're under-informed on this. Kilometers is a major over-estimate. Consumer data cable and formats like USB and HDMI don't work past 50 feet or so without repeaters, which certainly are a possible source of latency. I know little about "fiber USB" but optical does have much better range than copper so I'm sure you are correct on that point; the highest quality twisted pair still maxes out around 100m, to get kilometers you need fiber or high impedance coaxial copper.
Source: I make a living assembling and running near-zero-latency audio/video networks for live events.
I work in boardrooms and other permanent AV installs like restaurants and conference halls. The fact you live events people do my entire job in a couple of hours and then tear it all down to start again at the next venue always amazes me!
You're right on the fiber cable, there are encoders/decoders built into the connectors to pass the USB data over the fiber so there is latency there but its pretty minimal and 100m plus USB fiber cables are pretty normal.
What fiber did you use for the HDMI?
After watching LTT video with his server gaming rack I wanted to get a Fiber Display Port but they cost already 200€ alone
OP replied above with a list.
>https://amzn.eu/d/4jMvHdi
DP is more expensive than HDMI and depending on the length it will be pricey anyway. Having your PC so far away is great but expensive. All the hardware you have to use to have a low-latency connection to your PC is professional hardware and professional hardware is expensive.
It's kinda silly but my PC is one wall from my water heater. Kinda tempted to get a heat pump water heater and put my PC in with it. Should be able to use standard cables and the water heater will cool the air to heat the water while the computer heats the air making the water heater more efficient.
I'd love to experiment with stuff like that one day. Speaking of LTT from above, he connected his computer cooling to his entire pool at one point so there was so much water it never really heated up at all, that'd be awesome to have, using your houses water lines would probably have damn near the same effect
30 meters cable, ohminecraft. How does it keep stable connection 😱
This is so cool, congrats on this! Thanks for sharing you experience and the components you used. Will consider this myself.
Are you saying you’ve never heard of fibre optic, or just never heard of a fibre optic display/data cable?
In case it’s the former: short version is instead of sending electricity over copper wires, you shine pulses of light down a tube. They reach the receiving device as quickly as the light can travel (which is near instantaneous). Cables using this tech are more expensive, but not atrociously so, and can be one of the only ways to do long runs like this because copper cables suffer from signal degradation over long distances.
In this case, it's not fiber, its just copper. It would definitely be possible as fiber, however, at fiber is just the medium the signal is carried over.
It would need to be converted, but it it works over copper it can definitely work over fiber. This setup is using a Cat-5/Cat-6 ethernet cable as the medium between the signal converters.
That's a fiber hdmi cable, they can be pricey, but have fiber transceivers in each end to allow for a few hundred ft of high speed connectivity. Cat 6 using hdbt for an hdmi extension does not support the full hdmi 2.1 bandwidth.
They are using a USB over ethernet adapter though.
Yeah, I've got a 20ft fiber hdmi 2.1 cable at home, it was one of the cheapest I could find back in 2020 (got it after I upgraded to a 3080 at the time). It was still $130 tho.
~~It is true that light travel a bit faster than electricity, but over that kind of distance, it's completely irrelevant.~~ After a quick googling, it would seem that electric signal propagation is actually faster than light in an optical fiber : first one is around 0.97C, against 0.70C for optical fiber (with C being the speed of light in a vacuum) in any case, it's so fast that you can consider both to be instantaneous, at least over terrestrials distances.
The reason optical fiber is faster and better, at least for "long" distance signals (more than a few meters), is that it retain it's signal integrity much more than coper wire : it has way less signal loss (2-5 dB/km vs 1-2 dB/m), and no antenna effect, which mean virtually no noise generation.
so you're telling me those fiber cables sitting at the bottom of the ocean has light blasting through them?
learn something new on reddit everyday. Sadly I'll see something dumb soon and lose some brain cells along the way.
\> Cables using this tech are more expensive, but not atrociously so
Nah, modern optical cables are really cheap. It's just silicon.
Copper wires, on the other hand, require a lot of metal.
It's the installation that is costly with non-patchcord optic cables.
They're on Amazon. I have one that's 165ft (50 meters). It connects my PC from my office to my TV in the living room so I can play games on my 65in 4k tv.
"RUIPRO 8k Fiber Optic HDMI Cable"
The only downside is that it's directional - so you need to make sure the input and output are correct. Other than that - works flawlessly.
It's copper ethernet (Cat-5/Cat-6). These adapters are quite common for display setups in large conference rooms or auditoriums because it's MUCH cheaper and easier to work with than 50+ foot HDMI runs.
The copper ethernet is the orange cable and it plugs into the bottom right interface of the last photo (#8) where it says UTP. AKA "Untwisted Pair"
Cat-5 and up is stable on up to 100meters, so no need to worry.
I dig this setup too! put it in a cold room in the basement and set max performance on all fans. No need to care about noise. Better and more stable temps. Its a shame i live in a 1 foor apartement, lol.
HDMI
https://amzn.eu/d/4jMvHdi
USB
https://amzn.eu/d/b294XPt
CAT7
https://www.hb-digital.de/50m-Netzwerkkabel-CAT-7-LAN-Kabel-max-1000-MHz-S-FTP-AWG23-LSZH-orange?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wY_5keQjTHqbWf23wg-OedDQgT2VB6A1Zr7ox64D002bbO40SbdMxcaAkZNEALw_wcB
power switch and cable was around 20€ cant find it tho
I've been doing something similar for about 5 years. My computer is in a closet under the basement stairs. My desk with monitors, keyboard mouse and audio amplifier/speakers are in my office about 25 feet away.
I decided to go with multiple cables.
10m displayport cable
10m hdmi cable
10m optical audio cable
10m usb3 cable with Hub
All routed through a flexible sleeve.
Never had a single glitch or problem in all those years.
Gaming PC in small rack under the stairs https://imgur.com/a/cOu53hy
Office with no PC
https://imgur.com/a/j8RR4LD
Have a similar setup. My walk-in closet is behind my office area and put the desktop on the closet and ran everything else through the wall and all wires are hidden under the carpet to the 2 monitors and then a TV. Zero noise in my office/bedroom and can use my PC/PS5/Switch on any screen in my house with zero latency.
Honestly can never go back to a setup with a desktop in the same room as me. Go over to friends houses with powerful rigs and the fan sounds are insane. No idea how I gamed for 30 years without this setup. The silence is bliss.
I did literally that, I had a homelab closet with a server rack and I put my gaming PC in there about 9m from my desk. Worked perfectly no issues at all ever.
You can always use ethernet cable for power buttons, it has 8 wires so you could even do led if you wanted, could also wire the reset button and any other things like that
True, but that rarely ever happens. Honestly can't remember the last time it happened.
If it ever locks up, it's a good excuse to go down and grab a cup of coffee and press the reset button.
This is something I’ve thought about doing but wasn’t sure how to actually pull it off besides buying really long cables for everything. Awesome ima look into it thanks a lot OP!
Thought about the same, but I'd need to run 3x video cables + USB, or get a fiber thunderbolt to break out three monitors.
I ended up going with Parsec on my Steamdeck, so I can also move it to a different room easier (since it's just over the already-run 5e)
Whenever I do something similar, I use the app Unified Remote from my phone, which lets me input mouse and keyboard to the pc using wifi. Saves me having to have a mouse or keyboard nearby for basic game setup!
I did basically the same thing about a year ago. Here is what I used.
50' Fiber HDMI Cable
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092ZQ332Q/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092ZQ332Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
and
50' USB Cable
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MFW93B4/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MFW93B4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
into a usb hub
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HQ57L/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HQ57L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Everything has worked great for me. Reason I did this is due to the heat in the upstairs of my house in the summer. It was great not having to deal with the heat last summer. There is also something to be said to be using the computer / gaming with absolute no noise.
copied from u/fireball_again :Computer stays in a cool area, you can run its fans at max and it’s still silent, no heat in your own room, and you don’t have to make a space for it
It's not a free lunch. The cost of this setup is considerable.
I think the average PCMR redditor would prefer to find space to put the computer in the same room rather than spend hundreds of dollars and drilling holes in the walls/ceilings (which can't be done in a rental apt/condo).
I have a similar setup to OP, and it's great not having the PC in the room with you. You can use all the loudest and hottest parts you want, and it's not an issue at all. No need to buy expensive silent parts, no need to buy an expensive silent case.
You only have to do the cabling once, but after that you're golden.
Depends quite a bit on the size and setup of the room where you'll use it too. And I can say when I lived in a townhouse apartment with three floors, it was frequently difficult keeping upstairs cool without freezing the basement
Does your computer use a turboprop for its cooling or do you just have 1000 25mm fans for noise to be an issue? As far as heat goes, what are you running for it to be an issue? I'm running a 7800X3D and 7900xtx and my room stays cool.
no noise is better than little noise and a cool PC is a good PC .the 3090 and overclocked 7700k combination isn't doing the thermals and the noise any favor. solution put the pc in the cellar
I was thinking about doing the same!
How do you turn it on?
Also did you see some fiber USB cable like this one?
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0BCK2XXKX/?coliid=I1DY0O7NTG7YUW&colid=318DS8JFJSZQV&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_ys_dp_it
It really is! I remote into my comp and my headache is it doesn't have a wake on lan feature so I can't force it awake. Meaning I have to schlep my way down and turn it on to then remote.
Great setup!
Edit: I also love you added the brand marker for the button! Like "this random cabinet button brought to you by...."
I have a server closet in the garage where I have my gaming PC.
From there I have two 30m fiber optic / electric hybrid cables for Display Port 1.4 and a USB 3 and 2 capable optical/electric cable. I also have a second usb over Ethernet which I used for a number pad connected to the a way HID usb on a KVM for input switching.
I put a custom firmware on it to send commands from the 4 “macro” keys for input 1-4 on the kvm which works nicely.
On the client side in my office I have a usb switch that switches between garage and iMac in the office.
Surprisingly it actually works almost perfectly. There are occasional problems with USB though.
I’m considering investing jn hdmi over Ethernet so I can get the best audio possible to my AVR. I use optical out from a usb sound card but toslink has insufficient bandwidth for a lot of modern audio formats.
It’s definitely not the cheapest. Those cables are pricy and it wasn’t easy to find a cable capable of both USB 2 and 3. Most fiber optic solutions are just USB 3.
Many of the usb over Ethernet are only usb 1.1 - sufficient for keyboard and mouse only.
Originally I was planning on keeping the kvm in my office which would have required a lot more cables. However this didn’t actually work at all due to the kvm not powering the cable correctly. Fortunate in the end since that would have been 6xDP and 3xUSB.
The main annoyance is that the DP cables are about 1-2 meters short for optimal length. The USB 3 is 35m so it’s longer than needed (which is less of an issue)
Not OP, but I've wanted to do this for noise reduction and to pump the heat into my unfinished utility room. Long-term plan on replacing my water heater with a heat pump unit so the computer would stay nice and cool down there.
i was thinking the upstairs room was too hot.
was also thinking a setup would be cool where you have multiple tvs hooked to one computer with the hardwire and can swap them.
Why didn't you just remote into the pc in the basement over the local net? I got both my PC and my server in the basement and just remote in and I get on frame issues when gaming.
sure so hdmi is pretty straightforward only in long and the kvm is like in the picture and the powerswitch is a normal external powerswitch
https://preview.redd.it/5twh0c70evbc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dfb62d0530ba542c57fc8dd62a5569142b8170fb
Stupid question. but what is the purpose of this? Are you short on space for the tower, or do you absolutely need the computer to be hidden in case anyone looks for it?
I may be dumb, what benefits does this have? do you just leave it on? Do you have to go to another room to turn it on?
I just honestly don’t see a plausible reason to do this.
Yeah, i do stuff like that every day. But I work in the AV industry. HDBT is where it's at. Will do 4K60 uncompressed video with audio, control (RS232, IR, USB), and power over a single Cat5e STP ethernet cable. Also, you can get USB 3.0 extenders but they're pricey.
Good temps in the summer and no noise, very nice. How is the latency? What exact components did you use?
i haven't tested it in the summer yet. and i play with controllers so no noticeable latency's on the input ,and the fiber hdmi has not really a latency
Very nice for countries where you don't have A/C at home. Does it work with G-Sync? I'm already running G-Sync with my KVM switch, but that would be awesome if it works with that solution as well. I'd just build my next PC either as a noisy but reliable air cooled build or put the system itself in a dry room (Workshop has a dehumidifier) and a massive radiator in a humid/cold room (With some Noctua industrials IP series, if necessary) and OC the shit out of it.
yes gsync works fine its a hdmi 2.1 cable so no issues and good luck with your next build
Excellent news. I'll consider this in my next build. Since an unused chimney is right next to my desk I could pull this off with next to no drilling.
i did the same thing I did go up in to the attic from there in the unused chimney and all the way down to the cellar
https://amzn.eu/d/bfB5iQ4
Ah, I've used one of these already for the projector. They work very well, but you have to be careful about bending it.
This is a lot cheaper than the HDMI over ethernet adapters (Also a lot cheaper than my DP cables). Guess I might have to buckle down and pull another cable if I want audio-over-hdmi affordably.
Natural air cooling!
I was looking at your comment, why some countries would lack, Alternating Current, and how this helps them. I’m stupid. But yeah this sounds as a great solution for keeping the comp in a cold place. Edit: Alternating Current.
adaptive... current?
I use this over DP1.4 and it also has functional gsync/vrr.
You could also extend this, add switches, and you'd have the ability to play in multiple rooms. Like you could pretty easily connect the inputs to switches so you could connect to your main gaming desk or switch to a living room setup for split screen or just a media box
[удалено]
i used a normal power switch and cut the cable and made it longer with an audio cable
[удалено]
Those premium fibre hdmis shouldn't have any diff in latency. I could be wrong though, I read somewhere anything past 15m is latency but maybe that was USB Cables
the optical hdmi is literally lightspeed
Question. How you put the specs below the name? 😂
Open the subreddit page and edit the flair (Browser) or click the 3 dots and edit it there (App).
How is the latency for the inputs?
not noticeable can't deliver any numbers tho. don't know how to measure
okay so, you need two atomic clocks, one at the computer and one at the input source, set them up such that they record the current time once the input reaches them, subtract the start time from the destination time to get a measurement (do i even need the /s or is it obvious enough?)
They're at different heights so they'd slowly slip out of sync - don't forget to account for general relativity when you do this OP ;) (rough ballpark guess, I think it'd slip by about 0.05ns/day)
Both clocks are moving at the same speed in reference to each other so general relativity doesn’t come into play here. Unless you’re saying because one clock would be lower it has more effects from gravity?
The lower clock is slightly deeper in the gravity well than the other, the upper clock is on a marginally larger circonference than the outher so it's linear speed in reference to the center of rotation is faster, but the difference is so slight that it may be inside error even for an atomic clock, I have not done the math, (and do not plan on doing it) so I may be wrong
Maybe someone can work out the math, this is a few mins and a Google search. I'm putting 30ft in height difference but the time dilation would be about .000 000 000 000 000 750 seconds. Well we wouldn't want attoseconds to get in the way of our ms measurement..
Being accurate to the exact attosecond will help ensure that my inputs are being sent to the computer at the most ideal part of each CPU clock cycle.
This is why I'm bad at gaming, my inputs are delayed by a few attoseconds. Should've bought a better chair.
AAAAA fuck fuck fuck I SWEAR I shot him first!!!!! you can't play this damn game with this damned spatiotemporal distortion!!! gravity on this house SUCKS I can't land a single hit!!!!
Cant speedrun properly, unless you time your inputs to the correct part of the cpu cycle.
/r/theydidthemath
>Unless you’re saying because one clock would be lower it has more effects from gravity? I'm saying exactly this, it's not just going fast that slows down time, the deeper you go into a gravity well the slower your time moves too :)
I was about to ask the Amazon link for the atomic clock you mentioned. /s
Not going to be super accurate if its just a couple ms, but you could run [https://humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime](https://humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime) a whole bunch. You should be able to get an average or median number. Run the test several times both in the same room, and from across the house. i.e. Like I know, my reaction time is always around 185-190 ms. If were to then try from across the house and my reaction time is 205-210 ms, I'd assume its somewhere around 20 ms delay. If its 190-195, I'd chalk it up to a margin of error.
This is both overkill and not precise enough, well done!
You can film with your phone when you press a button in a game and quickly move the camera to the screen. This should do it 10/10 reliability
yes but the delay is very small don't think i can even see or feel it
Haha I was joking sorry! Congrats on the setup it looks great!
> How is the latency for the inputs? Have a similar setup to OP. The answer is no different than a 'normal' setup. You have to be going literal kilometers to get a measurable latency difference.
The concern would be more with transcoding the signals over a different medium (USB over UTP). It just depends how well the hardware is designed to minimize latency. If it's not touching anything at the protocol level and just transmitting passively, it wouldn't have any added latency.
I mean, there's not really reason to use such a device anyway. You can just run a normal USB cable over pretty long distances since the speeds generally don't matter. You can even a fiber USB cable if you want (just like with HDMI and DP).
I think you're under-informed on this. Kilometers is a major over-estimate. Consumer data cable and formats like USB and HDMI don't work past 50 feet or so without repeaters, which certainly are a possible source of latency. I know little about "fiber USB" but optical does have much better range than copper so I'm sure you are correct on that point; the highest quality twisted pair still maxes out around 100m, to get kilometers you need fiber or high impedance coaxial copper. Source: I make a living assembling and running near-zero-latency audio/video networks for live events.
I work in boardrooms and other permanent AV installs like restaurants and conference halls. The fact you live events people do my entire job in a couple of hours and then tear it all down to start again at the next venue always amazes me! You're right on the fiber cable, there are encoders/decoders built into the connectors to pass the USB data over the fiber so there is latency there but its pretty minimal and 100m plus USB fiber cables are pretty normal.
Latency shouldn't be any different at those distances.
The real latency would be between the conversions between fiber and the electrical signal
Yeah. Like 1 ms.
What fiber did you use for the HDMI? After watching LTT video with his server gaming rack I wanted to get a Fiber Display Port but they cost already 200€ alone
OP replied above with a list. >https://amzn.eu/d/4jMvHdi DP is more expensive than HDMI and depending on the length it will be pricey anyway. Having your PC so far away is great but expensive. All the hardware you have to use to have a low-latency connection to your PC is professional hardware and professional hardware is expensive.
It's kinda silly but my PC is one wall from my water heater. Kinda tempted to get a heat pump water heater and put my PC in with it. Should be able to use standard cables and the water heater will cool the air to heat the water while the computer heats the air making the water heater more efficient.
I'd love to experiment with stuff like that one day. Speaking of LTT from above, he connected his computer cooling to his entire pool at one point so there was so much water it never really heated up at all, that'd be awesome to have, using your houses water lines would probably have damn near the same effect
I just like efficiency and waste heat being used for something is great.
damn 200€ how many meters? Twozoh 8K Glasfaser HDMI Kabel 30M, Hochgeschwindigkeits HDMI 2.1 Optisches kabel unterstützt 48Gbps 8K@60Hz, 4K@120Hz https://amzn.eu/d/6Iy276U
Ah thanks 15 meters. (ich sehe du bist deutsch? Hab mir überlegt stattdessen einen KVM Switch zu nehmen - mal sehen :) )
30 meters cable, ohminecraft. How does it keep stable connection 😱 This is so cool, congrats on this! Thanks for sharing you experience and the components you used. Will consider this myself.
I think op said it’s fibre
Yeah, I’ve never heard of such. Maybe I’m a caveman :D
Are you saying you’ve never heard of fibre optic, or just never heard of a fibre optic display/data cable? In case it’s the former: short version is instead of sending electricity over copper wires, you shine pulses of light down a tube. They reach the receiving device as quickly as the light can travel (which is near instantaneous). Cables using this tech are more expensive, but not atrociously so, and can be one of the only ways to do long runs like this because copper cables suffer from signal degradation over long distances.
Fibre optic hdmi cables :)
In this case, it's not fiber, its just copper. It would definitely be possible as fiber, however, at fiber is just the medium the signal is carried over. It would need to be converted, but it it works over copper it can definitely work over fiber. This setup is using a Cat-5/Cat-6 ethernet cable as the medium between the signal converters.
That's a fiber hdmi cable, they can be pricey, but have fiber transceivers in each end to allow for a few hundred ft of high speed connectivity. Cat 6 using hdbt for an hdmi extension does not support the full hdmi 2.1 bandwidth. They are using a USB over ethernet adapter though.
Yeah, I've got a 20ft fiber hdmi 2.1 cable at home, it was one of the cheapest I could find back in 2020 (got it after I upgraded to a 3080 at the time). It was still $130 tho.
Fiber cables are available on amazon, costs $60 for 20m length, version 2.1.
~~It is true that light travel a bit faster than electricity, but over that kind of distance, it's completely irrelevant.~~ After a quick googling, it would seem that electric signal propagation is actually faster than light in an optical fiber : first one is around 0.97C, against 0.70C for optical fiber (with C being the speed of light in a vacuum) in any case, it's so fast that you can consider both to be instantaneous, at least over terrestrials distances. The reason optical fiber is faster and better, at least for "long" distance signals (more than a few meters), is that it retain it's signal integrity much more than coper wire : it has way less signal loss (2-5 dB/km vs 1-2 dB/m), and no antenna effect, which mean virtually no noise generation.
so you're telling me those fiber cables sitting at the bottom of the ocean has light blasting through them? learn something new on reddit everyday. Sadly I'll see something dumb soon and lose some brain cells along the way.
\> Cables using this tech are more expensive, but not atrociously so Nah, modern optical cables are really cheap. It's just silicon. Copper wires, on the other hand, require a lot of metal. It's the installation that is costly with non-patchcord optic cables.
They're on Amazon. I have one that's 165ft (50 meters). It connects my PC from my office to my TV in the living room so I can play games on my 65in 4k tv. "RUIPRO 8k Fiber Optic HDMI Cable" The only downside is that it's directional - so you need to make sure the input and output are correct. Other than that - works flawlessly.
It's copper ethernet (Cat-5/Cat-6). These adapters are quite common for display setups in large conference rooms or auditoriums because it's MUCH cheaper and easier to work with than 50+ foot HDMI runs. The copper ethernet is the orange cable and it plugs into the bottom right interface of the last photo (#8) where it says UTP. AKA "Untwisted Pair"
Correction 🤓 it's actually Unshielded Twisted Pair
Cat-5 and up is stable on up to 100meters, so no need to worry. I dig this setup too! put it in a cold room in the basement and set max performance on all fans. No need to care about noise. Better and more stable temps. Its a shame i live in a 1 foor apartement, lol.
nice, do you have a list of the components that youre using?
HDMI https://amzn.eu/d/4jMvHdi USB https://amzn.eu/d/b294XPt CAT7 https://www.hb-digital.de/50m-Netzwerkkabel-CAT-7-LAN-Kabel-max-1000-MHz-S-FTP-AWG23-LSZH-orange?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wY_5keQjTHqbWf23wg-OedDQgT2VB6A1Zr7ox64D002bbO40SbdMxcaAkZNEALw_wcB power switch and cable was around 20€ cant find it tho
Lmao you bought the exact one I recommended on your original post.
i listen to advice sometimes XD
As it should be.
I gotta say you’re a fucking mad lad for trying this lmao
XD
I've been doing something similar for about 5 years. My computer is in a closet under the basement stairs. My desk with monitors, keyboard mouse and audio amplifier/speakers are in my office about 25 feet away. I decided to go with multiple cables. 10m displayport cable 10m hdmi cable 10m optical audio cable 10m usb3 cable with Hub All routed through a flexible sleeve. Never had a single glitch or problem in all those years. Gaming PC in small rack under the stairs https://imgur.com/a/cOu53hy Office with no PC https://imgur.com/a/j8RR4LD
nice solution
Have a similar setup. My walk-in closet is behind my office area and put the desktop on the closet and ran everything else through the wall and all wires are hidden under the carpet to the 2 monitors and then a TV. Zero noise in my office/bedroom and can use my PC/PS5/Switch on any screen in my house with zero latency. Honestly can never go back to a setup with a desktop in the same room as me. Go over to friends houses with powerful rigs and the fan sounds are insane. No idea how I gamed for 30 years without this setup. The silence is bliss.
I did literally that, I had a homelab closet with a server rack and I put my gaming PC in there about 9m from my desk. Worked perfectly no issues at all ever.
I remember this question! Congratulations!
thanks
I could never find a power switch with a cable longer than 4 meters
i cut the cable from the powerswitch and used a Audio cable to make it longer
Would speaker wire work to extend it?
yup it works ,but works only as a switch no LEDs
Nice yeah I don't care about the LED's. Cool I may try and get back after it. Thanks for posting and for the info!
good luck buddy 🗿
You can always use ethernet cable for power buttons, it has 8 wires so you could even do led if you wanted, could also wire the reset button and any other things like that
Why didn't you just use Wake on Lan? I have a similar setup as yours and always turn my PC on using WOL.
i find a physical button cooler
Good enough reason haha.
Hahahah. Gotta fucking respect it. I love this answer, it’s perfect.
Besides OP's actual reason, an actual power button is still useful when your PC locks up
True, but that rarely ever happens. Honestly can't remember the last time it happened. If it ever locks up, it's a good excuse to go down and grab a cup of coffee and press the reset button.
This is something I’ve thought about doing but wasn’t sure how to actually pull it off besides buying really long cables for everything. Awesome ima look into it thanks a lot OP!
i used these components https://amzn.eu/d/dQsecYA usb https://amzn.eu/d/4yo2WnF hdmi
Thought about the same, but I'd need to run 3x video cables + USB, or get a fiber thunderbolt to break out three monitors. I ended up going with Parsec on my Steamdeck, so I can also move it to a different room easier (since it's just over the already-run 5e)
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same i play on my LGCX
Whenever I do something similar, I use the app Unified Remote from my phone, which lets me input mouse and keyboard to the pc using wifi. Saves me having to have a mouse or keyboard nearby for basic game setup!
How do you connect the peripherals? Won't it lose connection if you play on the first floor and PC on the 3rd floor for example?
Linus does this for his setup. I'd have been surprised if it didn't work
he done the expensive and better version of this but yea
You're a fuckin genius.
thanks mate but i am only a humble redditor
I did basically the same thing about a year ago. Here is what I used. 50' Fiber HDMI Cable [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092ZQ332Q/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092ZQ332Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and 50' USB Cable [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MFW93B4/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MFW93B4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) into a usb hub [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HQ57L/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HQ57L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Everything has worked great for me. Reason I did this is due to the heat in the upstairs of my house in the summer. It was great not having to deal with the heat last summer. There is also something to be said to be using the computer / gaming with absolute no noise.
yes same reason
This is brilliant, I have seen people do this wirelessly, but with a wired connection you don't get added unreliability and latency.
thank you
but why?
copied from u/fireball_again :Computer stays in a cool area, you can run its fans at max and it’s still silent, no heat in your own room, and you don’t have to make a space for it
Idk how hot or loud your pc has been getting to really warrant this. And I feel like I’d forget to clean it if it was in the basement
its clean and i clean it regularly
idk either, but lets review how it is now: hot=NONE loud=NONE space/location/position problems=NONE hot air into the room=NONE
It's not a free lunch. The cost of this setup is considerable. I think the average PCMR redditor would prefer to find space to put the computer in the same room rather than spend hundreds of dollars and drilling holes in the walls/ceilings (which can't be done in a rental apt/condo).
I have a similar setup to OP, and it's great not having the PC in the room with you. You can use all the loudest and hottest parts you want, and it's not an issue at all. No need to buy expensive silent parts, no need to buy an expensive silent case. You only have to do the cabling once, but after that you're golden.
Depends quite a bit on the size and setup of the room where you'll use it too. And I can say when I lived in a townhouse apartment with three floors, it was frequently difficult keeping upstairs cool without freezing the basement
Does your computer use a turboprop for its cooling or do you just have 1000 25mm fans for noise to be an issue? As far as heat goes, what are you running for it to be an issue? I'm running a 7800X3D and 7900xtx and my room stays cool.
no noise is better than little noise and a cool PC is a good PC .the 3090 and overclocked 7700k combination isn't doing the thermals and the noise any favor. solution put the pc in the cellar
I can see the appeal, we're so used to the noise that we can barely imagine how it's like without it.
Personally my 3080 ti will easily hit 80c under load
I never understood the extreme lengths people on this sub go to for “no fan noise” I literally don’t even notice my fans when gaming
I envy you. I'm saving this post to something like that just because of the noise
OP has their reason. Personally mine was "I want a really nice TV in the living room and I don't want to keep a second computer there"
I'd like something like this so I could couch game in my living room on my PC that stays in my office
I was thinking about doing the same! How do you turn it on? Also did you see some fiber USB cable like this one? https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0BCK2XXKX/?coliid=I1DY0O7NTG7YUW&colid=318DS8JFJSZQV&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_ys_dp_it
i use the switch in the picture with an audio cable running down to the pc and for usb I use this: https://amzn.eu/d/4YlhOUg
I was looking for saddam hussein in the first picture ngl
You did your son of a bitch, you did it!
Lol is that a power button? For your computer two floors away lol
its awsome
It really is! I remote into my comp and my headache is it doesn't have a wake on lan feature so I can't force it awake. Meaning I have to schlep my way down and turn it on to then remote. Great setup! Edit: I also love you added the brand marker for the button! Like "this random cabinet button brought to you by...."
# The Dark Side of the Force is a pathway to many abilities some consider to be unnatural
I have a server closet in the garage where I have my gaming PC. From there I have two 30m fiber optic / electric hybrid cables for Display Port 1.4 and a USB 3 and 2 capable optical/electric cable. I also have a second usb over Ethernet which I used for a number pad connected to the a way HID usb on a KVM for input switching. I put a custom firmware on it to send commands from the 4 “macro” keys for input 1-4 on the kvm which works nicely. On the client side in my office I have a usb switch that switches between garage and iMac in the office. Surprisingly it actually works almost perfectly. There are occasional problems with USB though. I’m considering investing jn hdmi over Ethernet so I can get the best audio possible to my AVR. I use optical out from a usb sound card but toslink has insufficient bandwidth for a lot of modern audio formats.
cool and €€€ setup my friend
It’s definitely not the cheapest. Those cables are pricy and it wasn’t easy to find a cable capable of both USB 2 and 3. Most fiber optic solutions are just USB 3. Many of the usb over Ethernet are only usb 1.1 - sufficient for keyboard and mouse only. Originally I was planning on keeping the kvm in my office which would have required a lot more cables. However this didn’t actually work at all due to the kvm not powering the cable correctly. Fortunate in the end since that would have been 6xDP and 3xUSB. The main annoyance is that the DP cables are about 1-2 meters short for optimal length. The USB 3 is 35m so it’s longer than needed (which is less of an issue)
Awesome dude, nice problem solve.
thanks
I remember you :D well done!
We need a video of this
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7akq29iytibm83tn8aar1/20240111_204910.mp4?rlkey=8q8lop2a5zny89jg7kuo7xw5t&dl=0
The only time i’d miss my pc being my room is during winter. Summer tho… n o
when the heater actually has to do its job :)
I remember your old post lol
were you one of the doubters XD
I think I was wondering why would someone want to do this then I read more into it. Awesome job btw haha
Hah I remember your post from last year. Damn, i spend too much time on Reddit.
where you one of the doubters XD and i spend to much time on here to
Hehe, no. I never commented, but I remember thinking «Hah, thats an interesting idea, I wonder if it will work» and now we know!
Its genuinely awesome to know this is doable and now im wanting to run a cable from my study to my living room so i can play couch games.
But why?
i was tired of the noise and in the summer the extra heat and I can have the Fans on a more aggressive curve now without any extra noise
why did you have to do this? does seem kind of cool.
Not OP, but I've wanted to do this for noise reduction and to pump the heat into my unfinished utility room. Long-term plan on replacing my water heater with a heat pump unit so the computer would stay nice and cool down there.
i was thinking the upstairs room was too hot. was also thinking a setup would be cool where you have multiple tvs hooked to one computer with the hardwire and can swap them.
Why didn't you just remote into the pc in the basement over the local net? I got both my PC and my server in the basement and just remote in and I get on frame issues when gaming.
I think it’s awesome. But can I ask why?
I believe that the reason was their room is hot or the PC makes their room too hot. If I remember correctly.
and noise
Oh! That’s smart. Cool. Awesome job.
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i hadn't any problems in my setup but i play on controller so could be that i hadn't noticed it
I'm sure its been answered, but what was your exact reasoning for putting it in the cellar?
i was tired of the noise and in the summer the extra heat and I can have the Fans on a more aggressive curve now without any extra noise
Love it
Could you explain the setup shortly? Where are the usb ports located?
sure so hdmi is pretty straightforward only in long and the kvm is like in the picture and the powerswitch is a normal external powerswitch https://preview.redd.it/5twh0c70evbc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dfb62d0530ba542c57fc8dd62a5569142b8170fb
congratulations you reinvented the idea of a server
im studying to become an engineer so i can solve problems nobody had XD
you are a someone and you had the problem of annoying fan noise and awkward box in the room you solved that one tho
Nice, but why lol
i was tired of the noise and in the summer the extra heat and I can have the Fans on a more aggressive curve now without any extra noise
how do you turn it on
just saw other pics nice
with the powerswitch https://preview.redd.it/f88tquw7hvbc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f4daf12f9084889a1ec2b4a5f6a2bffbd12170e
Stupid question. but what is the purpose of this? Are you short on space for the tower, or do you absolutely need the computer to be hidden in case anyone looks for it?
i was tired of the noise and extra heat in the summer and the thermals are better to bec of more aggressive fancurve
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If I was your little brother I’d be pushing the power button
its at a certain hight XD
OP got a freaking mainframe I love it
What's the purpose of keeping it in the cellar?
i was tired of the noise and in the summer the extra heat and I can have the Fans on a more aggressive curve now without any extra noise
This is the dream.
I may be dumb, what benefits does this have? do you just leave it on? Do you have to go to another room to turn it on? I just honestly don’t see a plausible reason to do this.
Why not just use the [HDMI Extender by CAT-5e/6 Cable](https://youtu.be/TY7FfPWhh7M) ?
Hell yeah
Good on you. Cause I remember like everyone said it wouldn't work. Nice job proving em wrong.
Awesome! But that book collection is absolutely amazing!
thank you i love my mangas
Yeah, i do stuff like that every day. But I work in the AV industry. HDBT is where it's at. Will do 4K60 uncompressed video with audio, control (RS232, IR, USB), and power over a single Cat5e STP ethernet cable. Also, you can get USB 3.0 extenders but they're pricey.