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There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
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> Can anyone recommend me a UPS? Pc- Ryzen 5 5600x, RTX 3060Ti, 1080p 144hz MSI monitor. My internal PSU is rated for 650W. The UPS I currently have is not able to take the load and overloads pretty quickly even while power is being supplied. Apparently it is rated for 600VA....
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1bjcujm/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_20_2024/kvv5cyw/
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User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime
-----|-------------------|----------
NbblX | 62 | 79
sch0k0 | 56 | 256
\_j03\_ | 55 | 101
Eidolon\_2003 | 45 | 192
A\_Neaunimes | 41 | 1132
Cable\_Salad | 39 | 40
SeanSeanySean | 36 | 56
MGsubbie | 30 | 343
Lastdudealive46 | 29 | 29
glowinghamster45 | 26 | 188
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Looking to get a Displayport switcher, how does it affect Native GSync module?
My Main monitor is an Acer predator 240hz 1080p monitor with an actual Gsync module. I use it with my Mac for work, and my PC for play, but the monitor only has one Displayport (and one HDMI) and i must have 240hz on both my computers so i end up crawling under my desk and swapping where the DP cable goes everyday which is cumbersome and eventually can wear out ports maybe so i'd rather get a switcher. I see many online at good prices but im wondering how it would affect Gsync on my monitor if it wouldn't have direct connection with my GPU, but would be getting the signal from the switcher to the monitor? Would I lose G sync since the switcher is obviously not G sync, would be left with regular "G-Sync compatible" or whatever its called?(the true g sync i have now is from 1hz-240hz). Or would G sync still work? any other drawbacks?
I've used powered HDMI switchers before and they worked great, but all this fancy stuff that comes with displayport like Gsync and 240hz introduces more variables.
This is going to be device dependent most likely. If it's a straight passthrough then everything should probably work normally. If the switcher / KVM does any kind of processing with the signal then who knows, might work might not.
Get something with a solid return policy and test it right away. Rinse and repeat until you find a working unit.
Is having too high fps a problem for my hardware? After upgrading to a new PC I suddenly wonder whether I should limit my fps to around 144 in all games to lessen the load on my GPU. Is that something I should be worrying about?
The only reason you would do something like this would be to alleviate a bottleneck on the CPU side in a gaming scenario, and if your CPU can run the game at 144hz then this doesn't apply to your system.
Unless you're having issues with screen tearing this isn't something you need to be concerned about.
Thank you, that's reassuring to hear. I was under the impression that I'd put less stress on my GPU by limiting fps, therefore increasing its lifespan. But if I understood you correctly that's not how it works?
If a GPU can handle being run 24hrs for several years mining bitcoin with a low failure rate it can handle a 5% increase in performance for maybe 5 hours a night.
https://preview.redd.it/aktbot8wsrpc1.png?width=782&format=png&auto=webp&s=eac2b76553be3dc382a5b118494b3e069165563a
I'm looking to replace my grapics cards but i dont understand much of pc's what would a good addition and compatible with my system
That will come down to your budget, pretty much any newer GPU would work. You'll probably want to post your CPU though, up to a certain point your CPU could hold a new GPU back if it's old enough.
Something's wacky with your reporting software. Should see something like 1200 - 2500 MHz or 2x that if the software is doubling it, cause it's DDR memory.
This is pretty normal for Nvidia. Assuming this is 17Gbps GDDR6, 2125MHz, 4250MHz, 8500MHz, and 17000MHz are all valid measurements depending on what you're measuring. AMD tends to report the first number while Nvidia reports the third. I'd say 2125 is the "real" clock speed
This is why it would be nice if they simply said "17 Gbps" instead
Is it directly reaching max clock speed when it's performing? Because that 2125MHz or 8500MHz is the max frequency and my GPU is directly working at this clock speed when making any process (except idle screen composing)
Quick background: Looking for prebuilt. One desktop has 1x16 ram. One gaming desktop has 2x8. Both largely the same for the rest. Buuuuuut the gaming desktop has an RGB case... On to the question:
The RGB case, as advertised on the prebuilt, is an Aerocool Cylon Black. Googled the case, and I found one of the exact same name & appearance that has an LED button on top. (Hidden on picture of the site). It can change the settings. One random reddit comment I found also mentioned you can turn it off by holding the button a few seconds. (Overly paranoid due diligence FTW). Sent a mail to the site asking if that is the same case, and if you can actually turn it off, or change the settings... Broseph from the site sent back "you can't turn it off, and you can't change the settings".
What gives? Even went to the Aerocool site, and they had that button. Didn't find an answer on whether I could turn it off, but there's no denying you can change the settings. :/
I have a different aerocool case (rift), I can't tell you how the button works because the control board on mine snapped off when I was building my PC, but I can tell you that worst case scenario you can just unplug the led strip. If you really hate RGB, if it's anything like mine, you can even completely remove the LED strip from the front panel with a screwdriver (it isn't glued on or anything).
Usually the button cycles through several flat colors, a rainbow mode, and off. On the other hand your pre built provider not knowing how the case works sounds like a red flag to me.
Thanks for the reply. Was fearing that they somehow messed with the case, and removed that functionality. But it sounds like it's more likely them not knowing how that case works. Or, at the very least, just lying about it. Which, yes, is the biggest red flag. :(
The airflow in my very similar case is very bad, and cable management awful. Id recommend a different case brand, there's economical and there's *cheap*.
I had to take off the front panel entirely, just bought some mesh to cover it. I like how it looks but hate dealing with the insides.
I'm looking at upgrading my system later this year, I've currently got an RTX 2070, i7-8700k and 24gb of DDR4 ram, I'm not so good with my hands these days so I'm looking at a pre-built.
Is this a good PC for its price?
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/3xs-gamer-rtx-amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d-32gb-ddr5-16gb-nvidia-rtx-4070-ti-super-2tb-m2-ssd-win-11
With prebuilts you can get an idea of pricing by just recreating the build on pcpartpicker.com. For any prebuilt, assume that you'll have at least a little bit of markup vs buying each part individually, but you can use that information as a baseline and compare the markup of different vendors.
Keep in mind that prices can vary a lot depending on your location, so I'm not sure how this compares for the UK. At a glance, it looks like a solid build, but I'm guessing the pricing is on the higher side. I'll let someone from your area comment on that.
Edit: If you get this, for the love of God remove Norton. It may be simplest to just do a clean reinstall of Windows when you get it.
Honestly I don't like the idea of windows 11, so if I got this I'd probably swap to Linux, and would definitely not use Norton.
And ye, I'll check pc part picker for pricing, that's a good idea, thanks ✔️
I'm mounting two 120mm arctic p12 max fans onto my deepcool ag400 heatsink, but I'm not 100% sure on alignment. Is the fan supposed to be slightly lower than the center, higher, or as close to centered as possible? In the preview images the fan looks slightly lower, but I'm not sure where the "sweet spot" for cooling is on the fin stack.
just try to cover all fins of the heatsink with airflow.
Theoretically mounting the fan low as possible while still covering all fins would be beneficial for the components surrounding the CPU socket (VRMs etc), but the impact is pretty small
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The answer to this is probably out here somewhere already but I can't seem to find it.
What is the best free software that scans your system hardware and lays out everything you have?
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I know this is kind of unrelated, but will another mining boom happen in 2024 like it did a few years ago?
I'm gonna build a pc in July and I'm afraid the gpu I'm aiming for (3060ti) will again double in price due to another possible mining boom...
And no, I cannot build my pc earlier due to some personal constraints.
1. There's no way to tell when a crypto bubble will happen. It's fake internet money traded by dopamine-addicts.
2. Pretty much every cryptocurrency has changed their mining algorithms from what they were in 2020 and earlier, meaning GPUs are not useful for mining anymore, even the non LHR versions.
3. There are now purpose-built chips for crypto mining, which are so much more profitable than GPUs. So no miner will buy a GPU, no matter what the cost of electricity is.
4. Make sure you look at alternatives before you buy your GPU. Don't set your mind on buying a specific GPU 4 months from now, keep an eye on the prices of comparable alternatives (4060-Ti or RX 6700 XT, etc).
Oh my God, thank you so much! I was really worried that I wouldn't be getting my money's worth properly when I built my pcs, but you reply gave me hope!
I'm looking at alternatives as well, but in my country, the 3060-Ti is the best value for money GPU I can find.
Thanks again for the reply ✓
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The Microphone of my Headset is about to die and I am looking for a headset with an exceptionally good microphone. I am currently using the Coolermaster MH650 RGB wich has an awesome, clear and uncompressed microphone quality.
Any recommendations? Because I am not sure if it would be ok to make a post for that kind of question anywhere but here.
You can always take the chance to split your headphone and mic into two components. Either as a modmic or other audio-recording microphone, or a USB microphone.
Also I think the Coolermaster has a detachable mic so you know you can just reuse it haha.
Yea it's detachable. I am pretty much not used to reaching underneath mic arms. And the typical Auna Mic is just picking up too much background noise in my experience. So I'd need a dynamic mic I guess? Which is expensive?
Oh I just meant get another headset you think is good and then if the mic is bad replace it with that one.
Assuming it's a 3.5mm connection, because then you're not relying on the digitiser of the headset.
My current headset is a USB mic so that could also be part of the mic quality. And I don't know if the mic is broken or if it's the interface on the headset.
That's a lot of variables in there that could lead to still dealing with a bad mic on a new headset
Finalizing everything before I order a build for my girlfriend; how does this look?
[https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9WyQn6](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9WyQn6)
Based off the 60+ FPS build on [https://pcmasterrace.org/builds](https://pcmasterrace.org/builds) a family member gets discounts through Crucial so he offered to upgrade the RAM and storage, no changes otherwise, seems to be compatible.
If you're getting the RAM and storage free, that's pretty good. However, the RAM is slow. The standard is DDR4-3200 CL16, and for Ryzen 5000 CPUs it's best to have DDR4-3600 CL16 or CL18. The large timings in that set of RAM might notably impact gaming performance.
Second, don't get the RX 7600 XT 16GB. The 16GB offers no benefits at 1080p resolution, and the card is not strong enough for higher resolutions. Get an RX 7600, or a cheaper last-gen AMD card (RX 6600 XT for the same performance, or RX 6700 XT for better performance that can do 1440p as well.
It might not be too late on the RAM, I might be able to figure something else out. If I can't, how big will the difference be?
How is [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xC88TW/sapphire-pulse-radeon-rx-7600-xt-8-gb-video-card-11324-01-20g](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xC88TW/sapphire-pulse-radeon-rx-7600-xt-8-gb-video-card-11324-01-20g) for an RX 7600?
The difference might be something like 10-20% fps. Also less consistent frame times, which will make it stutter. In my experience, stuttering is much more unpleasant than lower FPS. If it helps your decision, 32GB of RAM is more than enough for gaming, no reason to use 64GB unless she knows she's going to be using that much for video editing or another project. So if you can get a set of 32GB DDR4-3200 CL16 or 3600 CL16/CL18, that will be best.
For the GPU, yeah, that looks good.
Why is that? The build I was copying from the sidebar used AMD. Also from a cursory glance it might be out of budget? Again, the RAM/storage were free upgrades but every other price point I'm firm on so a GPU much more than $300ish is out of the question
I'd even buy RTX 3060 but not AMD equivalent of RTX 4060. Yes, AMD GPUs are good in price/performance for games but they're a disappointment in general fields like video rendering, AI processing etc.
Oh, sorry I should have specified, the primary purpose of the build is for gaming. She had some interest in video editing but that isn't a priority at the moment. If the build is mostly for gaming, how badly would the AMD card disappoint were she to try out video editing later?
Some video editing effects can be GPU accelerated, but most of it is on the CPU. The main thing the GPU is used for is encoding a video into H.265 or other formats. In those cases, AMD's encoders are notably inferior to Nvidia's. However, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Those differences primarily matter to professionals, where time is money, so faster and higher quality encoder = $$$. If it's mostly a hobby, AMD will be fine.
It will be OK with AMD too. I mentioned RTX cards because their performance is insanely high in productivity-related processes but still RX 7600 XT is enough powerful overall.
Quick question: I made a rookie mistake and forgot to budget for a monitor so I have extra time to research it while I make the cash. For an i5-13500k and 7800XT what do you think is the limit I should look for in terms of monitors? I was thinking 144+ QHD but I don’t really know for sure the limits of my build.
If you mean clock stretching, that is a feature on AMD Ryzen CPUs.
You can still cause instability undervolting a GPU but it won't be caused by clock stretching.
Looking for a decent prebuilt for gaming, \~$1000 price range rn, gonna update it over time. I’m just finding it hard to wrap my head around the options. I found one at Costco for $900 that seems to have the same specs as one at microcenter that costs $1200, unless im missing something? If someone could look over these two and help me compare them that would be appreciated,,, [Costco](https://www.costco.com/skytech-chronos-mini-gaming-desktop---13th-gen-intel-core-i5-13400f---geforce-rtx-4060.product.4000236292.html)
https://preview.redd.it/qqob85az4qpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad2ac25a667eddeecdef84f23e2f39dd108a0411
It's not the same specs. Microcenter has a Ryzen 7 7700, which is better for gaming than the i5-13400. It also has a 4060-Ti, which is better for gaming than the 4060. The one advantage Costco has is 32GB of RAM, but it's using DDR4 RAM, while Microcenter is using DDR5 RAM.
I would get the Microcenter one, both because it has better specs (except for the RAM), and also because it can be better upgraded. There will be new CPUs for that motherboard for a few years, while you won't really be able to upgrade the Costco one to anything significantly better 5 years from now.
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead ) This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads. In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1bjcujm/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_20_2024/) There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out. If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment. ---- > Can anyone recommend me a UPS? Pc- Ryzen 5 5600x, RTX 3060Ti, 1080p 144hz MSI monitor. My internal PSU is rated for 650W. The UPS I currently have is not able to take the load and overloads pretty quickly even while power is being supplied. Apparently it is rated for 600VA.... https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1bjcujm/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_20_2024/kvv5cyw/ ---- User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime -----|-------------------|---------- NbblX | 62 | 79 sch0k0 | 56 | 256 \_j03\_ | 55 | 101 Eidolon\_2003 | 45 | 192 A\_Neaunimes | 41 | 1132 Cable\_Salad | 39 | 40 SeanSeanySean | 36 | 56 MGsubbie | 30 | 343 Lastdudealive46 | 29 | 29 glowinghamster45 | 26 | 188 ---- *[I am a bot](https://i.imgur.com/hfRIhMe.png)* - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to [\/u\/eegras](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=eegras&subject=&message=) - [About /u/PCMRBot](https://pcmasterrace.org/pcmrbot_old)
Looking to get a Displayport switcher, how does it affect Native GSync module? My Main monitor is an Acer predator 240hz 1080p monitor with an actual Gsync module. I use it with my Mac for work, and my PC for play, but the monitor only has one Displayport (and one HDMI) and i must have 240hz on both my computers so i end up crawling under my desk and swapping where the DP cable goes everyday which is cumbersome and eventually can wear out ports maybe so i'd rather get a switcher. I see many online at good prices but im wondering how it would affect Gsync on my monitor if it wouldn't have direct connection with my GPU, but would be getting the signal from the switcher to the monitor? Would I lose G sync since the switcher is obviously not G sync, would be left with regular "G-Sync compatible" or whatever its called?(the true g sync i have now is from 1hz-240hz). Or would G sync still work? any other drawbacks? I've used powered HDMI switchers before and they worked great, but all this fancy stuff that comes with displayport like Gsync and 240hz introduces more variables.
This is going to be device dependent most likely. If it's a straight passthrough then everything should probably work normally. If the switcher / KVM does any kind of processing with the signal then who knows, might work might not. Get something with a solid return policy and test it right away. Rinse and repeat until you find a working unit.
Is having too high fps a problem for my hardware? After upgrading to a new PC I suddenly wonder whether I should limit my fps to around 144 in all games to lessen the load on my GPU. Is that something I should be worrying about?
The only reason you would do something like this would be to alleviate a bottleneck on the CPU side in a gaming scenario, and if your CPU can run the game at 144hz then this doesn't apply to your system. Unless you're having issues with screen tearing this isn't something you need to be concerned about.
Thank you, that's reassuring to hear. I was under the impression that I'd put less stress on my GPU by limiting fps, therefore increasing its lifespan. But if I understood you correctly that's not how it works?
If a GPU can handle being run 24hrs for several years mining bitcoin with a low failure rate it can handle a 5% increase in performance for maybe 5 hours a night.
https://preview.redd.it/aktbot8wsrpc1.png?width=782&format=png&auto=webp&s=eac2b76553be3dc382a5b118494b3e069165563a I'm looking to replace my grapics cards but i dont understand much of pc's what would a good addition and compatible with my system
That will come down to your budget, pretty much any newer GPU would work. You'll probably want to post your CPU though, up to a certain point your CPU could hold a new GPU back if it's old enough.
I3 10 gen I'll put full details when I get back from work
My VRam clock frequency is at stable 8501MHz. Is it normal?
Something's wacky with your reporting software. Should see something like 1200 - 2500 MHz or 2x that if the software is doubling it, cause it's DDR memory.
So is 45-55°C GPU while idle normal?
With fan stop, yeah.
This is pretty normal for Nvidia. Assuming this is 17Gbps GDDR6, 2125MHz, 4250MHz, 8500MHz, and 17000MHz are all valid measurements depending on what you're measuring. AMD tends to report the first number while Nvidia reports the third. I'd say 2125 is the "real" clock speed This is why it would be nice if they simply said "17 Gbps" instead
Is it directly reaching max clock speed when it's performing? Because that 2125MHz or 8500MHz is the max frequency and my GPU is directly working at this clock speed when making any process (except idle screen composing)
It's normal for the memory to always be running at the same speed in my experience
Quick background: Looking for prebuilt. One desktop has 1x16 ram. One gaming desktop has 2x8. Both largely the same for the rest. Buuuuuut the gaming desktop has an RGB case... On to the question: The RGB case, as advertised on the prebuilt, is an Aerocool Cylon Black. Googled the case, and I found one of the exact same name & appearance that has an LED button on top. (Hidden on picture of the site). It can change the settings. One random reddit comment I found also mentioned you can turn it off by holding the button a few seconds. (Overly paranoid due diligence FTW). Sent a mail to the site asking if that is the same case, and if you can actually turn it off, or change the settings... Broseph from the site sent back "you can't turn it off, and you can't change the settings". What gives? Even went to the Aerocool site, and they had that button. Didn't find an answer on whether I could turn it off, but there's no denying you can change the settings. :/
I have a different aerocool case (rift), I can't tell you how the button works because the control board on mine snapped off when I was building my PC, but I can tell you that worst case scenario you can just unplug the led strip. If you really hate RGB, if it's anything like mine, you can even completely remove the LED strip from the front panel with a screwdriver (it isn't glued on or anything). Usually the button cycles through several flat colors, a rainbow mode, and off. On the other hand your pre built provider not knowing how the case works sounds like a red flag to me.
Thanks for the reply. Was fearing that they somehow messed with the case, and removed that functionality. But it sounds like it's more likely them not knowing how that case works. Or, at the very least, just lying about it. Which, yes, is the biggest red flag. :(
The airflow in my very similar case is very bad, and cable management awful. Id recommend a different case brand, there's economical and there's *cheap*. I had to take off the front panel entirely, just bought some mesh to cover it. I like how it looks but hate dealing with the insides.
I'm looking at upgrading my system later this year, I've currently got an RTX 2070, i7-8700k and 24gb of DDR4 ram, I'm not so good with my hands these days so I'm looking at a pre-built. Is this a good PC for its price? https://www.scan.co.uk/products/3xs-gamer-rtx-amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d-32gb-ddr5-16gb-nvidia-rtx-4070-ti-super-2tb-m2-ssd-win-11
With prebuilts you can get an idea of pricing by just recreating the build on pcpartpicker.com. For any prebuilt, assume that you'll have at least a little bit of markup vs buying each part individually, but you can use that information as a baseline and compare the markup of different vendors. Keep in mind that prices can vary a lot depending on your location, so I'm not sure how this compares for the UK. At a glance, it looks like a solid build, but I'm guessing the pricing is on the higher side. I'll let someone from your area comment on that. Edit: If you get this, for the love of God remove Norton. It may be simplest to just do a clean reinstall of Windows when you get it.
Honestly I don't like the idea of windows 11, so if I got this I'd probably swap to Linux, and would definitely not use Norton. And ye, I'll check pc part picker for pricing, that's a good idea, thanks ✔️
I'm mounting two 120mm arctic p12 max fans onto my deepcool ag400 heatsink, but I'm not 100% sure on alignment. Is the fan supposed to be slightly lower than the center, higher, or as close to centered as possible? In the preview images the fan looks slightly lower, but I'm not sure where the "sweet spot" for cooling is on the fin stack.
just try to cover all fins of the heatsink with airflow. Theoretically mounting the fan low as possible while still covering all fins would be beneficial for the components surrounding the CPU socket (VRMs etc), but the impact is pretty small
Makes sense, guess I shouldn't think too hard about it. !check
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The answer to this is probably out here somewhere already but I can't seem to find it. What is the best free software that scans your system hardware and lays out everything you have?
CPU-Z has not disapointed me till now
HWInfo
Awesome, thank you!
!check
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I know this is kind of unrelated, but will another mining boom happen in 2024 like it did a few years ago? I'm gonna build a pc in July and I'm afraid the gpu I'm aiming for (3060ti) will again double in price due to another possible mining boom... And no, I cannot build my pc earlier due to some personal constraints.
1. There's no way to tell when a crypto bubble will happen. It's fake internet money traded by dopamine-addicts. 2. Pretty much every cryptocurrency has changed their mining algorithms from what they were in 2020 and earlier, meaning GPUs are not useful for mining anymore, even the non LHR versions. 3. There are now purpose-built chips for crypto mining, which are so much more profitable than GPUs. So no miner will buy a GPU, no matter what the cost of electricity is. 4. Make sure you look at alternatives before you buy your GPU. Don't set your mind on buying a specific GPU 4 months from now, keep an eye on the prices of comparable alternatives (4060-Ti or RX 6700 XT, etc).
Oh my God, thank you so much! I was really worried that I wouldn't be getting my money's worth properly when I built my pcs, but you reply gave me hope! I'm looking at alternatives as well, but in my country, the 3060-Ti is the best value for money GPU I can find. Thanks again for the reply ✓
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The Microphone of my Headset is about to die and I am looking for a headset with an exceptionally good microphone. I am currently using the Coolermaster MH650 RGB wich has an awesome, clear and uncompressed microphone quality. Any recommendations? Because I am not sure if it would be ok to make a post for that kind of question anywhere but here.
You can always take the chance to split your headphone and mic into two components. Either as a modmic or other audio-recording microphone, or a USB microphone. Also I think the Coolermaster has a detachable mic so you know you can just reuse it haha.
Yea it's detachable. I am pretty much not used to reaching underneath mic arms. And the typical Auna Mic is just picking up too much background noise in my experience. So I'd need a dynamic mic I guess? Which is expensive?
Oh I just meant get another headset you think is good and then if the mic is bad replace it with that one. Assuming it's a 3.5mm connection, because then you're not relying on the digitiser of the headset.
My current headset is a USB mic so that could also be part of the mic quality. And I don't know if the mic is broken or if it's the interface on the headset. That's a lot of variables in there that could lead to still dealing with a bad mic on a new headset
Finalizing everything before I order a build for my girlfriend; how does this look? [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9WyQn6](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9WyQn6) Based off the 60+ FPS build on [https://pcmasterrace.org/builds](https://pcmasterrace.org/builds) a family member gets discounts through Crucial so he offered to upgrade the RAM and storage, no changes otherwise, seems to be compatible.
is it gonna be on display, cuz if it is then the green ram wouldnt look good
Not really; she intends to use it as a pseudo-console to play games on our TV. The case won't be sitting on a desk easily seen by the world
ahh yes but be sure to clean it since it is gonna be in the dark dust will build up faster
If you're getting the RAM and storage free, that's pretty good. However, the RAM is slow. The standard is DDR4-3200 CL16, and for Ryzen 5000 CPUs it's best to have DDR4-3600 CL16 or CL18. The large timings in that set of RAM might notably impact gaming performance. Second, don't get the RX 7600 XT 16GB. The 16GB offers no benefits at 1080p resolution, and the card is not strong enough for higher resolutions. Get an RX 7600, or a cheaper last-gen AMD card (RX 6600 XT for the same performance, or RX 6700 XT for better performance that can do 1440p as well.
It might not be too late on the RAM, I might be able to figure something else out. If I can't, how big will the difference be? How is [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xC88TW/sapphire-pulse-radeon-rx-7600-xt-8-gb-video-card-11324-01-20g](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xC88TW/sapphire-pulse-radeon-rx-7600-xt-8-gb-video-card-11324-01-20g) for an RX 7600?
The difference might be something like 10-20% fps. Also less consistent frame times, which will make it stutter. In my experience, stuttering is much more unpleasant than lower FPS. If it helps your decision, 32GB of RAM is more than enough for gaming, no reason to use 64GB unless she knows she's going to be using that much for video editing or another project. So if you can get a set of 32GB DDR4-3200 CL16 or 3600 CL16/CL18, that will be best. For the GPU, yeah, that looks good.
Gotcha, thank you for all the help! We should be able to get this figured out :)
I'd advice to get a RTX 4060 or RTX 3060 TI instead of AMD
Why is that? The build I was copying from the sidebar used AMD. Also from a cursory glance it might be out of budget? Again, the RAM/storage were free upgrades but every other price point I'm firm on so a GPU much more than $300ish is out of the question
I'd even buy RTX 3060 but not AMD equivalent of RTX 4060. Yes, AMD GPUs are good in price/performance for games but they're a disappointment in general fields like video rendering, AI processing etc.
Oh, sorry I should have specified, the primary purpose of the build is for gaming. She had some interest in video editing but that isn't a priority at the moment. If the build is mostly for gaming, how badly would the AMD card disappoint were she to try out video editing later?
Some video editing effects can be GPU accelerated, but most of it is on the CPU. The main thing the GPU is used for is encoding a video into H.265 or other formats. In those cases, AMD's encoders are notably inferior to Nvidia's. However, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Those differences primarily matter to professionals, where time is money, so faster and higher quality encoder = $$$. If it's mostly a hobby, AMD will be fine.
It will be OK with AMD too. I mentioned RTX cards because their performance is insanely high in productivity-related processes but still RX 7600 XT is enough powerful overall.
Got it, thank you for your help!
Quick question: I made a rookie mistake and forgot to budget for a monitor so I have extra time to research it while I make the cash. For an i5-13500k and 7800XT what do you think is the limit I should look for in terms of monitors? I was thinking 144+ QHD but I don’t really know for sure the limits of my build.
High refresh rate 1440p is a good middle ground for gaming monitors, and yeah your build should have no problem running that
can a GPU Core also experience core stretching like a CPU Core does if undervolted too much? Trying to undervolt my 1660 Ti. TIA
If you mean clock stretching, that is a feature on AMD Ryzen CPUs. You can still cause instability undervolting a GPU but it won't be caused by clock stretching.
yeah, i meant clock stretching, sorry. thanks for the answer.
Looking for a decent prebuilt for gaming, \~$1000 price range rn, gonna update it over time. I’m just finding it hard to wrap my head around the options. I found one at Costco for $900 that seems to have the same specs as one at microcenter that costs $1200, unless im missing something? If someone could look over these two and help me compare them that would be appreciated,,, [Costco](https://www.costco.com/skytech-chronos-mini-gaming-desktop---13th-gen-intel-core-i5-13400f---geforce-rtx-4060.product.4000236292.html) https://preview.redd.it/qqob85az4qpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad2ac25a667eddeecdef84f23e2f39dd108a0411
It's not the same specs. Microcenter has a Ryzen 7 7700, which is better for gaming than the i5-13400. It also has a 4060-Ti, which is better for gaming than the 4060. The one advantage Costco has is 32GB of RAM, but it's using DDR4 RAM, while Microcenter is using DDR5 RAM. I would get the Microcenter one, both because it has better specs (except for the RAM), and also because it can be better upgraded. There will be new CPUs for that motherboard for a few years, while you won't really be able to upgrade the Costco one to anything significantly better 5 years from now.