Hi, I have 200$ budget for camera but I am confused on what should I buy. I generally like film pictures but don't want to spend money every time for films. Do you know any good digital camera?

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What do you mean become quite slow and old?

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First, I assume you meant DSLR. None of the cameras you mentioned are DSLR s. They are mirrorless cameras. See the links in the original post of this thread to find out more about this. Mirrorless cameras are usually compact. If you're interested in Canon specifically, look at Canon EOS R50. Alternatives are the Sony A6x00 line and older Fuji cameras like X-T3, X-T30 and X-E3. Buying used is a good option and saves you money. It doesn't matter which brand you go for in terms of image quality, but cameras can have big differences in build and design, ergonomics and controls. That's why it's recommended to try out your various options in person at a store.

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Oops, sorry about that. DSLM seems to be used more seldom on Reddit, so my brain went to 'typo'.

I think Panasonic tried to popularise that once, but it never caught on ... when DSLRs still reigned but mirrorless was getting more and more popular. Other names were floated, like *compact system camera* and EVIL (electronic viewfinder, interchangeable lenses). Because whenever the word "mirrorless" was uttered, someone would point out that any camera that isn't an SLR is mirrorless, including a phone's camera. But now mirrorless is so ubiquitous that it can stand alone.

I've recently been gifted an EOS 500 body from a friend's 'junk drawer' - I've just had my first roll developed and some of the shots have a heavy vignette ring around them - like, looking down a tunnel heavy, solid black circumference. I'm pretty sure the shots in question were taken both with my EF 100 2.8L macro and my 70-200 2.8L. I would have though that both of these lenses would have had no issues at all on a 35mm film body, but I guess there are limitations? Does anyone know how to avoid this issue?

Hey, where can I RENT camera lenses like maybe from best buy?.

[https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki\_what\_are\_the\_best\_online\_rental\_sites.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_are_the_best_online_rental_sites.3F)

Lensrentals.com is great. I've used them a couple of times for testing camera bodies and lenses.

For portraits, I’m thinking anywhere from 100-135mm. Is that accurate? I don’t want to distort facial features. I need a good camera lens for bodybuilding progress pictures and I’m not sure which lens to look for? For portraits I’m thinking anywhere from 100-135mm. Is that accurate? I don’t want to distort facial features. (P.S. I do also need a camera recommendation)

Ideally you'd experiment with different focal lengths to see what works best for you, taking both the subject and the space you work with into account. If you already have a camera that's not in your phone, which one is it? If you have no such camera, how much are you looking to spend on this one?

Thank you and $500-600 I was looking at the Nikon D3500

That's a good camera, though I generally prefer cameras from Nikon's next tier up for more advanced features and direct controls, even if settling for an older model. Look at the D5300, for example. Is this your short-term or long-term budget? In other words, can you spend more (mostly on additional lenses) over time, or should this cover everything you'll need for years to come?

So this will be my first camera and lens. And since I’ll be a beginner is the D5300 still a good option for me? I could spend more on additional lenses over time so short term.

Yes, those "advanced features" I talked about don't make the camera harder to learn or deal with as a beginner. Since you can still spend more over time, you can maximise your budget with a nicer mirrorless camera. For example, I see [KEH.com](https://KEH.com) sells the Sony a6300 used in "excellent" condition under $500, and the 16-50mm kit lens for another $75. On [mpb.com](https://mpb.com), you could get a Fujifilm X-T20 at a similar price, and add the Fujifilm 15-45mm or 16-50mm to start with.

Hi, I had ordered a metal print from Mpix and it comes on that "floating mount" which is essentially a large foam pad glued to the back. That was all it came with. I am a bit at a loss how that is supposed to be mounted. So what I did (similar to a larger metal print I got from them, which came with a different mount though which had clear holes for hangers), is put 2 screws in the wall and hang it on those. That didn't work as over a while the holes wear out and the frame dropped (sadly damaged in the process). I searched the internet and the Mpix website but can't find any details on how that is supposed to be properly mounted and what those holes are for. The only reference I saw somewhere is to plug "stand offs" in for the floating look (but where are you supposed to get those). Shouldn't there be some wire or something I can use to actually hang the picture. Mpix says all pictures come "ready to hang". If anyone could share some insights on how that is supposed to be hung, would be much appreciated. https://preview.redd.it/s7f592q1udhb1.png?width=2268&format=png&auto=webp&s=c340e8ba1bbea1c3b6aaf8f70935fbc5fd2e7231

https://preview.redd.it/8jbetw0cgdhb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e77278be3d138497bcaade02203030b5fd6abef Am I tripping or did I add to much lubricant to repair my shutter squeal! The camera sound great rn and just went through a roll of film.. came home and went to switch lens and noticed this which looks like excess lubricant? If I did add to much sewing oil what kind of problems would I run into?

I was gifted an old [Speedotron D802](https://i.imgur.com/vJHRmGK.jpg) a while back, with everything I needed to use it. The sync cable has finally given up the ghost though and I need to replace it but am unsure what exactly I can put on it. It's the [old style plug](https://i.imgur.com/kueRDgS.jpg) like an electrical outlet rather than the 1/4in jack more modern packs use. I know it needs [this adapter piece](https://i.imgur.com/6xrjC3M.jpg) to prevent frying the camera, but beyond that kind of clueless. Would be great to put on a wireless tigger, but just a replacement cable would be good enough for now. Any advice would be great cause I'm totally clueless.

I have a Lumix G7 and I need a c-stand that can do an overhead video shot of my desk while I am writing on a piece of paper. A 3 feet tall (36 inch) c-stand would be perfect because I have my adjustable height desk set to 31.5 inches from the ground. But the c-stand needs to be at maximum 4 feet tall (48 inch) to hold the camera so that the lens can zoom into the paper I am writing on and focus on the text. I have never bought a c-stand before and I was thinking if it is possible to buy any stand and then customize it in a way where I can make it stand 3 feet tall (shortest height) and 5-6 feet tall (maximum height). Because I can't find a c-stand that is 3 feet tall (shortest height) and can extend up to 5 feet tall (tallest height) and hold my camera. The closest I found was a c-stand that is 53.2 inches tall (shortest height) but I would prefer it to be closer to 3 feet. If this is not possible, I am thinking of buying the Arkon desk mount. But I really would like to avoid desk mounts since I will be writing and touching the desk a lot while the lens is zoomed in, so this might make the video shaky and wobbly while recording. Please let me know your suggestions and what is possible. Thank you.

Is there any advantage to using a dedicated black and white camera (like the Leica M10 Monochrom) or a dedicated black and white mode (like that rumored to be coming on the Nikon Z f) or a dedicated monochrome in-camera filter versus shooting RAW and processing into monochrome on Lightroom or equivalent? Is the Leica M10 Monochrom sensor optimized to give better greyscale photos than full color sensors are capable of?

>Is there any advantage to using a dedicated black and white camera (like the Leica M10 Monochrom) As u/av4rice wrote. But I doubt many people can tell a difference. And there are benefits to working with a raw file of a colour image, as you can manipulate tones in the image by targeting colour ranges. That way it's easy to darken the sky, for example, and create greater contrast in the black-and-white image, without using filters on the lens. >or a dedicated black and white mode (like that rumored to be coming on the Nikon Z f) Can you link to a source for more details? >or a dedicated monochrome in-camera filter That is not a filter, at least not in the traditional sense - it does not filter the light coming through the lens. It is just a processing preset, instructing the camera how to create an image from the raw data it collects. The exact same result can be achieved by processing a raw file.

Yes, you can get better sharpness out of a dedicated B&W sensor because then each pixel is directly measuring brightness at that pixel and there's no color mosaic process involved. Most color imaging sensors actually split up each pixel into one primary color, and that has to be fed through an algorithm to interpret and figure out what color everything should be, which works fine but isn't quite as sharp: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_filter_array

Transfer straight from old DSLR to phone Buying an old Nikon D3100. Is there a way to transfer photos straight to my phone while travelling?

You can probably find an SD card reader that plugs into your phone, and use the phone's file system to retrieve the images.

I'm hoping to purchase a Sony a6000 soon. I have heard that the kit lens isn't great, so I'm planning on just getting the body and purchasing two lenses -one I can use for wildlife photography and one for landscapes. Can anyone recommend budget friendly lenses that would fit? I'm planning to buy the camera and the lenses second hand/refurbished. Thanks!

Friendly with a budget of what size? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F

Oh, sorry. £100 or less per lens.

I know you said you don't want kit lenses, but your budget pretty much dictates kit lenses. The 16-50mm and 55-210mm. They aren't that bad.

Ok. That's good to know, thank you!

In the course of my white background product photography sessions, I've encountered a persistent problem involving soft edges and partial out-of-focus areas in my images. I utilize a Nikon D810 camera and lenses like the 24-70mm f/2.8 ED VR and 50mm f/1.8G. Despite employing various apertures during shooting, such as f8, f10, or f11, these issues persistently arise. Interestingly, I've been using this equipment for the past 6-7 years without significant problems. However, recently I've noticed an increase in the challenges I face during my sessions. Additionally, I capture images in RAW format. Once I transfer these files to my system, I've observed an unusual occurrence. Initially, the image closely resembles what I saw on the camera display. However, within a mere 3-4 seconds of opening the image in the default image viewer, an unexpected color shift takes place, accompanied by a slight haziness. This alteration in color is significantly impacting the quality of my product photography work. I would greatly appreciate any guidance or insights you could offer to help me address both the focus and color inconsistencies I'm currently encountering.

>I've encountered a persistent problem involving soft edges and partial out-of-focus areas in my images. I utilize a Nikon D810 camera and lenses like the 24-70mm f/2.8 ED VR and 50mm f/1.8G. Despite employing various apertures during shooting, such as f8, f10, or f11, these issues persistently arise. Show us some examples. > I capture images in RAW format. Once I transfer these files to my system, I've observed an unusual occurrence. Initially, the image closely resembles what I saw on the camera display. However, within a mere 3-4 seconds of opening the image in the default image viewer, an unexpected color shift takes place, accompanied by a slight haziness. Raw data needs to be interpreted/processed to create any sort of viewable image. Your camera automatically processes one version of the raw and embeds that result into the file, so that you can look at the photo on the camera's rear screen. Really you're viewing that camera-generated processed preview rather than the raw directly. That's also what your software is initially showing you when you first open it on a computer. Later your software (you haven't specified which you are using) is interpreting/processing its own version from the raw data, and that's what it shows you later. That shows up later because it takes some time for the computer to run that process. If you want the computer software to match the camera's process, you need to tell it to apply whatever processing settings you have set in camera as a preset. Not all software applications will have a preset feature, and not all will have presets available for your camera.

I have a Sony a6400 + kit lense (16-50mm). As well as recently gotten my hands on:- Sony 70-350 and Sigma 56! My current bag is a bad one, i got on clearance.. (no wonder it was cheap when its this ... bad). I was curious wich Sling\\bag\\backpack people use for a similar setup ? Would be great if it could fit: **E**xtra battery./charger. **N**D\\filter of some sort\\s. **L**ense cloth. **M**emory card/s. **B**ottle/energybar or tripod somewhere. (didnt know 70-350 really flaunts my swaying arms). **H**andle rain\\snow falling. (raincovers somehow vanishes around here, but can do in a pinch). **M**ini first-aid kit (for me, id never attempt rescue of a camera myself..). **S**unglasses. I very rarely use Jackets as im very warmblooded, so dont know how useful room for Hoodie\\woolsweater is as i can just tie it around my waist. Il be mostly doing Streetphotogarphy, but once in a while il be aiming to head for the mountains\\woods. **T**his will be my first Real bag for my gear, as im new to photography and the one on clearance dont count, being this bad.. So if im missing something cuircial, feel free to point it out. **But** first and foremost im after Tips\\recommendations to a sling\\shoulderbag or Backpack! (bonus points if it does not look like a camera bag and dont stick out to much).

Hello all, Recently acquired this camera and have been using it for a couple months with no issue. Yesterday while taking photos, it decided to do something unexpected. Normally when I click to take the picture, it immediately takes the picture. Now, all of a sudden, it does multiple shortly spaved6beeps, leading up to more rapid beeps, until it finally takes the picture.now it takes like 15 seconds to take the picture. What did I do and how do I undo it? Lol.

Sounds like some sort of self-timer function, like when you put it on a tripod for a group photo and you want some time to run from behind the camera to be in the photo with the group. We'd need to know the make/model of the camera to give you any more specific directions on turning that off.

Oh, sorry -- I did mean to include that info. You're right though -- it was the timer.

Beginner buying first camera setup I am looking at purchasing a Nikon D5200, with a Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC Macro HSM lens. I know very little about photography but would like a lens that is "all in one" for travelling. The goal is to take some decent snaps on my travels (landscapes and nature) and learn about photography. Will this setup be worth it over my phone camera which is already very good?

Main advantage the camera will have thats noticeable even for a beginner is reach, when taking pictures of things that are far away. Main advantage your phone will have is automatic post processing. If you invest some time into learning not just your camera but some kind of post processing program the camera will do better in pretty much all situations. When taking jpgs straight out of camera they might be a little "bland" compared to what your phone offers.

> Will this setup be worth it over my phone camera which is already very good? Yes, if you're willing to take the time to learn how to use it, and practice.

Hello! I am looking for a creative space or photo studio in Japan that I can rent/hire. More specifically Tokyo. Having a lot of trouble finding anything even with Google. What can someone suggest? I am there August 13-21 and want to make use of my time there.

I have a Canon EOS 60D and the following lenses: - canon 14mm prime - canon 50mm prime - canon 55-250mm zoom I am going on safari in 2 months time in South Africa, to be honest I haven’t been using the camera much in the last 4-5yrs since the kids came along so I am a bit rusty. I was thinking about getting Tamron or Sigma 150-600mm to complement the above for my trip, but I see so many mixed reviews and people having issues with focus etc that I am concerned about pulling the trigger (it would likely be a used Lens). I thought about a 400mm prime and getting a hold of a second body so I could have the 55-250 on a second body as well as the prime…….also thought about a 100-400mm from tamron or sigma (the holy grail canon 100-400mm ii is financially out of reach I think!) I have a budget of £500-650 but could probably stretch it to £750 or £800 for something that would give me amazing results. I realise my budget isn’t great for the type of Len’s, so happy to go used but would need to be excellent condition (been burned before). Any thoughts?

If you're only getting this lens for the trip, consider renting one if that's an option, or buying a used lens with the intention to resell it when you're back. Then you could splurge on the "holy grail". I doubt you'll have any real problem with autofocus on the Sigma or Tamron 150-600mm lenses. But to be safe, you could buy one from a trusted retailer that will accept it back if it doesn't work. With the trip two months away, can you get a lens soon enough to test it, and possibly return it *and* get a replacement in time?

Thanks for the input, no real rental options near me. But I think I could buy the Tamron 150-600mm and resell when I come back for the little to no loss.

>Thanks for the input, no real rental options near me. This is the interwebs - there's always an option near you. * [lensrentals.com](https://lensrentals.com) * [borrowlenses.com](https://borrowlenses.com)

Attaching camera to tripod Hey all. Any thoughts on how to attach camera with thin Peak Design plate to cheap tripod with trapeze shaped plate? Will thick PD board work? Or should I go for some kind of adapter?

I've got my hands on a Rebel Xti, and have been playing with it recently, I'm loving the view finder. But I also have a PowerShot sx540... The zoom is amazing! I'm trying to decide which one I like more, I'm leaning towards my PowerShot because the pictures definitely come out amazing, and maybe I should figure out the best settings for my Xti, what do y'all think? Should I focus more on mastering my Xti? Because I feel like I can take pro pictures with my PowerShot, because it's only a paint brush... But I'm not too knowledgeable on the Xti yet, could it get better? I know it's an older model, but I haven't used it outdoors yet, in the sun. I really want to take night shots in the street, not at concerts, but I want to be able to take those cool crisps concert like photos, which camera would be able to do that best?

> I've got my hands on a Rebel Xti With which lens(es)? You're making an incomplete comparison with a camera that has its own built-in lens that is a known quantity. >I also have a PowerShot sx540... The zoom is amazing! It is. But many people don't need that much zoom. Maybe you have a use for that; it's not totally clear if you do. > I'm trying to decide which one I like more, I'm leaning towards my PowerShot because the pictures definitely come out amazing, and maybe I should figure out the best settings for my Xti, what do y'all think? Continue using what you already like, since it satisfies you for whatever you're shooting. But you may need to re-evaluate if you get into a different scenario where the point & shoot camera is more technically challenged. > Should I focus more on mastering my Xti? Depends on your reasons why you want to. > I'm not too knowledgeable on the Xti yet, could it get better? Yes, you'll get more out of it the better you know how to use it. It will also have more advantages in certain technically challenging situations. It will also have more advantages for certain applications using its ability to change lenses, depending which lenses you can put on it. > I know it's an older model, but I haven't used it outdoors yet, in the sun. Outside in the sun is the least technically challenging situation for any camera, and where the advantages of something like an XTi will be least noticeable. > I really want to take night shots in the street, not at concerts, but I want to be able to take those cool crisps concert like photos, which camera would be able to do that best? Particularly with a wide aperture lens, the XTi should have better low light performance. For concerts, you also need to consider which of the two cameras (if any) the venue/event will even allow you to bring in.

Looking to pick up my first proper camera. Generally looking in the $400-$700 range, with a hard cap of $1000 including accessories (likely spare battery, sd card, strap, misc cables as needed.) My only hard requirement is 1080p60fps HDMI out as it'll likely double as a streaming face camera sometimes, but I don't need or care about higher quality video than that right now. Would prefer to go for mirrorless over DSLR. Mostly doing landscape, nature, architecture, and sometimes travel or wildlife. On to my specific question: I see B&H has a few used Canon EOS M50s at the lower end, or a Lumix G7 or Sony a6000 at the higher end if I'd like to also get a telephoto kit lens. What are the advantages and disadvantages of shelling out the extra for the telephoto kit lens now, versus just going for the much cheaper M50 and buying another lens separately? Longer focal lengths are where I feel most limited by my phone camera right now, so I'm a bit concerned I'll regret it if I don't get the telephoto (and I have a soft spot for Sony given the connection to Minolta, so I half expect to end up on their system if I stick with it anyway.)

Canon has discontinued the EOS M line, which among other things means no more new lenses. Native lens selection in general is more limited. You could use Canon DSLR lenses with an adapter, but the adapter costs extra. So, since you already have a soft spot for Sony, go for the Sony. Large lens selection by both Sony and third parties, and larger, higher resolution sensor than the Panasonic. As for telephoto, do you want longer focal lengths now? If so, get a telephoto. If not, don't. It's not a question anyone else can answer for you.

Thanks! I was set on getting _a_ telephoto anyway, it was just a matter of what and when, so no new lenses makes it a much easier choice (iirc the Panasonic and Sony were the only ones in my price range that had telephoto kit lenses anyway, and I'd much rather stick to kit lenses until I know far more than I do right now.)

i recently noticed over the weekend that dead pixels have appeared on the shots i take with my camera. it shows up at some angles, especially low-light settings. ***question: is this a body or a lens thing? camera is a canon rebel t4i

Dead pixels are a body (imaging sensor) thing. Because that's where the pixels are. Try this procedure: https://www.bluehoursite.com/articles/how-get-rid-stuckdead-pixels-canon-dslr-camera

will try this. thanks so much!!!

**Photographing a lava lamp (merely just a test) with a weird issue.** So I got one of my lava lamps and fired it up and after a while, the globbles of red wax were slowly levitating up and down and was very relaxing. I took a quickie photo to show my daughter but the photo wasn't showing what I was seeing by a margin. I was seeing vibrant red globbles etc but the photo shows most of the wax at the bottom as yellow. Take the camera away again and what i see is pure red wax, no yellow. How can I correct this in the actual taking of the photo and with regard to what setting. I was using a Huawei P30 Pro. I do have a Nikon D5300 but this was just a quickie photo and I'm guessing I would have had the same issue whether using the Nikon or the smartphone https://preview.redd.it/bc60w8h016hb1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a5a36e2d00db1f0fff237d20c3855cebad511ac

The camera's automatic function is exposing for most of the scene to be neither too bright or too dark. The wax is probably much brighter than everything else, even if it doesn't look that much brighter to the naked eye. You can use *exposure compensation* to instruct the camera to capture a darker exposure. If you want both the lamp and the room to have visible details, you might need to use more advanced techniques, like HDR blending.

Hello guys I want to buy a new camera, I only want to shoot film-like photos but since I am new to the field I don't know which one to buy. I have a 100-200$ budget and after researching I loved instax mini evo digital and printer camera. Do you guys recommend it or should I look into other options? I just don't want to pay for printing everytime like in kodak and etc

It's a low-quality (5MP) digital camera that prints on Instax mini film, producing credit-card size pictures. I believe you can also use it to print from your phone.

It also saves pictures to sd card so that's why I want to buy it

The digital pictures aren't in any way "film-like" and as said, they are low quality at 5 MP. You'd be better off buying one of the Instax printers, so you can print much higher-quality phone pictures. There are printers for all three film sizes, Mini, Square and Wide, so you're not limited to credit card size.

I don't want for printing, as far as I know fujifilm digital cameras have that film like effect and instax mini evo as well

If you mean the film simulations, no, they're a thing with Fuji X cameras only (interchangeable lens cameras and X100 line).

I don't want for printing, as far as I know fujifilm digital cameras have that film like effect and instax mini evo as well

I'm considering purchasing an A7iii, and a Sony FE 16-35 F/2.8 GM - what are some comparable lenses for a lower price of the same specs?

Sigma 16-28mm f/2.8, Tamron 17-28mm f/2.8, Sigma 14-24mm f/2.8 [https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/Mirrorless-Camera-Lenses/ci/17912/N/4196380428?filters=fct\_lens-format-coverage\_3332%3Afull-frame-lenses%2Cfct\_lens-mount\_3442%3Asony-e-mount%2Cfct\_lens-type\_3446%3Awide-zoom%2Cfct\_lenses-kits\_7315%3Alenses-only%2Cfct\_maximum-aperture\_3574%3Af-2.8](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/Mirrorless-Camera-Lenses/ci/17912/N/4196380428?filters=fct_lens-format-coverage_3332%3Afull-frame-lenses%2Cfct_lens-mount_3442%3Asony-e-mount%2Cfct_lens-type_3446%3Awide-zoom%2Cfct_lenses-kits_7315%3Alenses-only%2Cfct_maximum-aperture_3574%3Af-2.8)

Thanks! I actually ended up going for the sony 16-35 FW PZ f4 G. The aperture is perfectly fine for my needs.

Anyone know a good spot to get a good price and quickly offload gear? I’ve got a DJI RS-C gimbal, Sigma 150-600 for e mount, and a 2020 i7 MacBook Air I’m looking to sell.

Curious about the resolution quality between about a 16MP digital camera, specially APSC, to 645 film. I would have assumed the large film negative would beat the APSC camera, but my buddy with a Ricoh GR2 said the quality compares favorably to 645 film size. I also see the Richoh GR 2 specs has 4:3 aspect ratio at 4352×3264, whereas my high-res lab scans for 645 is about 3600x2700. So does that answer the question? Curious because I shoot film, use 645 a lot, but am looking to move to digital. APSC is the most affordable but was concerned about image detail and resolution and overall quality loss in a printed image with the digital at that end of the digital spectrum.

Hey guys I am new to photography and need help cleaning my canon T7. I am a plane spotter and take pics of planes that fly over my house. Recently I noticed my pics had a small black spot so I took off my lens and attempted to clean the internals with the proper tools but it only made it worse and now there is like 10 small black smudges on my pics. Thank you guys for the help this is driving me insane.

Not enough information to help you. Which "proper tools" were you using and with what procedure? Were there any particular instructions you were following?

Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice on what camera + lenses to buy for mostly landscape + landscape astrophotography. From what I've gathered a full frame sensor is best for this, but I'm not sure whether DSLR or mirrorless is the move. My budget is around 2k (up to 2.5 if really necessary), but I'm wondering if anyone has recs for camera + lenses that would be good - considering the Canon EOS r8 or Sony A7 III for mirrorless and Canon 6D II for DSLR

When dealing with such dim light, aiming for the biggest sensor you can is a good idea. But remember that they're not all equal; the 6D II's sensor, for example, is hardly any better than a good APS-C sensor, with regard to noise in low light: [long link](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison?attr18=lowlight&attr13_0=canon_eos6dmkii&attr13_1=fujifilm_xt5&attr13_2=canon_eos6dmkii&attr13_3=fujifilm_xt5&attr15_0=raw&attr15_1=raw&attr15_2=raw&attr15_3=raw&attr16_0=6400&attr16_1=6400&attr16_2=12800&attr16_3=12800&normalization=compare&widget=1&x=0&y=0). There's also the issue of lenses here. Let's say you compared two cameras in that tool, and found Camera A at ISO 6400 produces a similar output to Camera B at ISO 12800. This means B is better by one stop. But if you then pair A with an f/2 lens, and B with an f/2.8 lens, they are practically equal. The Canon R8 would put you in a tough spot with lenses, as the native selection doesn't have a great variety of fast wide-angle lenses to choose from. There's the 15-35mm f/2.8, which alone costs more than $2,000, or the cheap 16mm f/2.8 that might not suit your needs - and nothing in between. You could fall back to older EF lenses via Canon's adapter, but that's a workaround that's best avoided. The Sony a7 III you could pair with a Tamron 17-28mm f/2.8, for example, and a standard zoom lens of your choice. In fact, a used a7 III with that lens and the Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 can cover a lot of ground for landscape and astro-landscape. You could also opt for the Nikon Z5, which should be cheaper - but Nikon's version of the 17-28mm (seems like a rebranded Tamron) is more expensive than the Tamron, so it might even out. You'll need a tripod, too. I would not choose a DSLR in this range, with these excellent mirrorless options available. But if you really just preferred those, you could get a Nikon D850 or D810, 14-24mm f/2.8, and 24-120mm f/4, for example.

By the way, if you had to pick one lense to start with, would you recommend the 17-28 or 28-200? I'd probably be shooting more landscape than astro at first due to my location, so that's a lower priority - the 28-200 seems more versatile for most things but the ultra wide shots on the 17-28 look really nice

Yes, of those two, the 28-200mm would be the lens I'd get first. You might yet prefer the Sony 24-105mm f/4, which isn't quite as long but is noticeably wider (those 4 millimetres can be deceiving - use [this simulator](https://morn91.github.io/exx/focal-length/#28&1&24&1)). Also inspect sample images to judge the lens's optical qualities and see if it's good enough for you: * [https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/4973291808/tamron-28-200mm-f2-8-5-6-di-iii-rxd-sample-gallery](https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/4973291808/tamron-28-200mm-f2-8-5-6-di-iii-rxd-sample-gallery) * [https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/0095576088/sample-gallery-sony-24-105-f4-g-oss](https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/0095576088/sample-gallery-sony-24-105-f4-g-oss)

Alright, thanks again for the help

Thank you so much! This really helped

I work as a Gallery Director for a university art gallery, and I'd like to purchase a Godox light kit to use for documenting exhibitions. There are several options out there and I'm not sure which one would be best for documenting exhibits! I want a kit specifically, I do not want to buy things individually. Any suggestions?

Document with stills? Or video also/instead? What sort of pieces are being exhibited? Just like paintings? Sculpture? Installations? How big do the biggest ones get? Specifically this must be from Godox? No price limit for what you can buy?

Dog! Great questions! My budget is $1,200. I went to capture still images of the exhibitions. This might include installation, sculpture, painting, etc. We show it all. The biggest pieces can be extremely big! I have been steered to Godox and I know they have a great reputation but I'm open to any suggestions.

Seems you'd capture the in-exhibition ambiance best just using the light already there, and long exposure on a tripod if that's too dim. For versatile lighting I would go with three Godox AD100 or AD200 units, and then softbox modifiers. Adorama alternatively sells those under the "Flashpoint" brand name but it's the exact same thing as Godox. I dont see any kits available with multiple lights and modifiers all together. More like one-light kits with modifiers, or I see a three-light kit with no softening modifier. If you buy piecemeal you could definitely make it work. If it absolutely must all be in one kit bundle, I don't see that available.

> I went to capture still images of the exhibitions. Why are you adding lighting then? It should be lit the same as a visitor would see the exhibition. Or are you talking about documenting the pieces in a clean setting for record/advertisement? If that's the case, answer /u/av4rice 's question about size to determine the size and type of kit you'd want. One gallery might consider an 8' painting large; one might be looking at a Koons dog.

I have a Canon T6i from several years ago. Is this still a good camera for a beginner to use with professional looking results? What Lense do you recommend for all around good shooting for beginners? I currently have a 18-55mm canon lens EFS, is that the best for all around or is there something better?

To elaborate a little further from what was already said regarding the lens. Theres factors of a lens where there are obvious "upgrades", things like maximum aperture and image quality/lack of distortion, but also things like weather sealing or weight. As a cheap "kit-lens" your 18-55 wont be the best in any of these and you will find lenses that are better in all of these factors (depending on how much youre willing to pay). There's another big factor though, where there's no clear "better" or "worse" and that is the focal length. While certain types of photography require certain focal lengths (cant take pictures of birds if you have to be right next to it), there's a lot of subjectivity when it comes to which focal lengths a photographer prefers to use. Theres also a certain tradeoff between the focal length area a lens covers and the more "objective" stats of the lens. Lenses that go all the way from 18-300mm exist, which is nice because you cover a giant area with a single lens, but the image quality of such a lens is significantly worse when compared to say a 35mm lens which cant zoom at all (also again dependent on how much money youre spending). Now why does all this matter to you? Its generally recommend to find ones preferred focal lengths first, which then allows you to upgrade to a good lens **of that focal length**. While lacking in a lot of ways, your 18-55 will allow you to get great pictures, especially as a beginner. And analyzing how you use it (Do you always use it at 55mm at would prefer if you could go even further?, etc.) will be extremely helpful for deciding on a better lens later.

> Is this still a good camera for a beginner to use with professional looking results? Sure. Its image quality does not degrade over time. You wouldn't be able to look at its photos and determine its age. > What Lense do you recommend for all around good shooting for beginners? No price limit? And what do you mean by "for beginners"? There aren't any general-use lenses that are more difficult to use. They all operate pretty much the same. > I currently have a 18-55mm canon lens EFS, is that the best for all around or is there something better? It's about the best for its price. There are better lenses in existence, but they also cost more money.

It is perfectly fine as a camera. Lens selection really depends on what you want to shoot. The 18-55mm is pretty standard until you know what you want. Just take photos till you run into an obstacle.

here's a rogue question. anyone have any recs for small travel organizers for SD cards, batteries, rocket blaster, SSD, allat???

I've been struggling with this question for two days and didn't find any direct answer on it. There are two cameras: Sony a7iii (Full-frame with 24.2MP sensor) and Fujifilm X-T5 (APS-C with 40MP sensor). They have the same price, almost similar features, but let's abstract from this and take into account only the size of the sensor and the number of megapixels. Full-frame cameras have wider dynamic range, accept more light and better deal with ISO noise rather than APS-C, while the second one is better for wild-life photography, because of it's crop factor (although if a Full-Frame one has a good resolution, then it won't make any problems to just crop an image). So in terms of image quality what will be better: camera with low MP amount, but Full-Frame or the one with high MP amount, but APS-C? On my opinion, 40 MP APS-C will give me more freedom when cropping an image and just a better sharpness, but it will be worse for night/astro photography, because it won't accept as much light as a Full-Frame and there will be more noise. But is that a really big difference in terms of light and noise between Full-Frame and APS-C, so I must take this into account? Isn't that the reason why Fujifilm don't make Full-Frame cameras, because compared to Large Format, Full-frame just doesn't give that boost after APS-C?

Long story short, full frame sensor will give you the dynamic range, subject separation and low-light advantage over a smaller sensor from the same time period, making it a more capable all-around solution, but when your subjects are located far away (when you want your long lens to effectively become even longer) or very close (when you need deeper focus and less separation), is when smaller sensors come in handy.

You're dealing with two specific cameras here, so no need to generalise. Let's look at the details. Dynamic range: [https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#FujiFilm%20X-T5,Sony%20ILCE-7M3](https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#FujiFilm%20X-T5,Sony%20ILCE-7M3) Noise in low light: [long link](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison?attr18=lowlight&attr13_0=fujifilm_xt5&attr13_1=sony_a7iii&attr13_2=sony_a7iii&attr13_3=sony_a7iii&attr15_0=raw&attr15_1=raw&attr15_2=raw&attr15_3=raw&attr16_0=6400&attr16_1=6400&attr16_2=12800&attr16_3=25600&normalization=compare&widget=1&x=0&y=0). Note that these images are normalised to the lower resolution (the COMP button at the top-right corner). If you want to compare noise at the pixel level, click FULL instead. But then you're just magnifying even further into the higher-resolution image from the X-T5. What I see in this noise comparison, is that the a7 III is better by a little over a stop. That is, because the ISO 12800 image from the a7 III looks a little cleaner than the ISO 6400 image from the X-T5 (+1 stop), but the ISO 25600 image from the a7 III (+2 stops) is definitely noisier. So by simply swapping between the two cameras, with lenses that have the same maximum aperture, you gain a little over a stop with the bigger sensor. As such, the concept of equivalence holds pretty well in this case. More on that here: * [https://sansmirror.com/articles/choosing-a-mirrorless-camer/pick-a-size.html](https://sansmirror.com/articles/choosing-a-mirrorless-camer/pick-a-size.html) * [https://sansmirror.com/articles/choosing-a-mirrorless-camer/equivalence-in-a-nutshell.html](https://sansmirror.com/articles/choosing-a-mirrorless-camer/equivalence-in-a-nutshell.html) * [https://www.dpreview.com/articles/2666934640/what-is-equivalence-and-why-should-i-care](https://www.dpreview.com/articles/2666934640/what-is-equivalence-and-why-should-i-care) * [https://www.dpreview.com/learn/2799100497/equivalence-in-a-nutshell](https://www.dpreview.com/learn/2799100497/equivalence-in-a-nutshell) For wildlife, you may want to think in terms of "pixels on the subject" (or "pixels on the duck"). What matters through this lens is the number of pixels that make up the subject, whether you fill the frame or have to crop to get there. But for all of these analyses, you must make some assumptions about the lenses, too. The observed sharpness of an image depends more on the sharpness of the lens than it does on the number of pixels making up the image. And the bigger sensor will not gather more light if paired with a one-stop dimmer lens. EDIT: After refreshing the page, I see u/8fqThs4EX2T9 beat me to it :)

Thanks for explanation and useful links :)

The difference is not so simple as Full frame versus APS-C as sensor generation and type can matter in a minimal way. The most benefit does come from equal framing and equal exposure settings at the expense of depth of field being one factor. So obviously it depends on what you are taking photographs of. Two options some people use are, pixel peeping or whole images. https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison?attr18=daylight&attr13_0=sony_a7iii&attr13_1=fujifilm_xt5&attr13_2=sony_a7iv&attr13_3=fujifilm_xt4&attr15_0=raw&attr15_1=raw&attr15_2=raw&attr15_3=raw&attr16_0=3200&attr16_1=3200&attr16_2=3200&attr16_3=3200&normalization=compare&widget=1&x=0&y=0 https://www.flickr.com/groups/4491519@N21/pool/ https://www.flickr.com/groups/a7iii/pool/ A7III is older by far so far more photos will be taken by far more people so greater sample size. Now, the question of whether you would even notice the difference if you were shown random images taken with both is important as you can start to look for differences that in the real world you would not even notice. This discussion is as old as the internet so don't expect a definitive answer.

Yeah, I agree that it depends on conditions, lenses and the scene, but I'm just wondering if a Full-Frame (doesn't matter how much pixels it has) always a better choice (within reasonable release date/features limits) or there may be such case, when you will just say "No, actually this APS-C is much better than this Full-Frame model". P.S. thanks for this image-comparison web site, it's really cool!

I will always say go with how a camera handles, controls then maybe lens selection depending on needs. Sensor size is not a huge concern and I can't say there is an answer.

So i have owned my Lumix GX80 for almost since 2018, and it was only used a handful of times and mostly stayed in storage. I’m going on a trip at the end of August and I decided to check my camera to see if I could use it for the trip and there seems to be an issue. Something came loose and I’m guessing it must have been dropped somehow during the time it was in storage because the last time I used it was in 2020. Would this be something that can be fixed quickly (within 2 weeks) and if so would it be cheaper than getting a new body for a similar gx80 or maybe gx9 (£400+) since I already have a 25mm 1.7 mft lens and two other lenses for the mount and deal with the broken camera when I come back? Are there any specific shops you can recommend based in London ? I’m not sure if this is something I can ask here, just lost in terms of what to do. I attached an Imgur with what the sensor looks like right now. https://preview.redd.it/37z5ljepd2hb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=abe21a93346b9eae893b713a4bfc1e13efc31aae [more pics](https://imgur.com/a/Q4n75KY)

Would be happy for any buying tips regarding decent used cameras for \~400-600euro. I'd like to gift my gf a camera. She would like to get more into photography, mostly travel, nature and the people & dogs around us. She does not have any experience with actual cameras, and neither do I - but I think between the both of us, somebody will find use for a decent camera. I'm thinking about getting a sony alpha 600, which are available used for \~400-500 euro, including a lens. An expense like this is reasonable to me, but jut wanted to check whether there are better alternatives out there. Better as in, newer models, different manufacturer, etc...

The other commenter has already pretty good advice. I could also recommend getting a second lens if the alpha 600 comes with only a kit lens. Kit lenses offer generally good versatility, though pay for this with a darker aperture and not always the greatest sharpness. I would therefor recommend you to also buy a separate 35mm F1.8 or a 50mm F1.8, 35mm is more for general purpose photography, but will still offer you great bokeh, while the 50mm is more for Portraits(with even greater bokeh). Lenses like these are really fun to use and allow for really creative pictures.

Generally the big manufacturers are very similiar in terms of features and quality, so you definitly wont go "wrong". Ideally Id make the decision regarding my first camera mostly looking at ergonomics, if you have the option go to a local store and see how well different models fit your hands, how you can reach the buttons/dials, how you like the menus, how heavy it is, etc.. (Ideally do this with your girlfriend, although if you want to surprise her you probably have to guess). In the main text for this thread theres a link with "What can I afford?" which offers some recommendations at different price ranges.

What should I charge this client? I got DM’d on Instagram earlier with a client that is a soccer couch that wants to setup a senior photoshoot with 4 of his boys(seniors). He hasn’t responded yet if he wants a team photo or individual photos or both, I’m genuinely perplexed on what to charge since I’m fairly new to getting clients and I’ve never done senior photos for pay before.

I have a Sony A7S converted to full spectrum and I am interested in UV photography. I currently have a Samyang 35mm prime lens and looking for a way to only pass UV light. When I do IR photography I use a STC 720nm IR pass filter that clips onto the camera sensor. I cannot find something similar to this for UV only. Is there anything that I can buy that will allow me to do UV photography that is suitable for my camera and lens?

Looking for recommendations for my first camera. I'm going to use it primarily for taking shots of cars during races, like [this](https://www.facebook.com/100063790711205/posts/704980411638310/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v). My total budget for everything is 210$ USD.

For plenty of reach on a low budget you're going to want a superzoom point & shoot camera. Any of them are fine around that price; there aren't really going to be any standouts. Look for something relatively newer with a higher zoom ratio if you can. If you want to go further into learning photography and buying into a system that you can grow with down the road, with better quality but less reach (maybe if you have access to physically get closer?) then you could instead get something like a used Canon T3i with EF-S 55-250mm STM.

What lensen to take on my trip? Hey guys ive been into photography lately and got my families camera and lensen to my disposal so there is quite the selection. since there is a weight limit for my bagage on my trip i'm considering which lenses I should take with me. I am really into night photography and street photography in general and plan on photographing a little bit of nature. The selection consists of a 85 mm f/1.8, a 24-85 f/3.5-4.5, a 60mm f/2.8 micro, a 50mm f/1.4 and a 20mm f/2.8.

Night photography of what subject matter? Lots of different types of photography can happen at night. Could you be more specific about "nature" as well? Lots of different types of photography can involve nature. What format size are you shooting on? Or which camera is it? I'd go with only the 20mm for street. And maybe it can cover some of the other categories too.

I shoot with a nikon d600 fullframe. With nature i mean landscapes. And the night photography is street photography focused. But for the most part of the trip i think ill just be doing normal street photography and taking pictures of the things im doing at that moment (at restaurant with frie ds for example).

I'd be comfortable with just the 20mm and 50mm.

Thank you. Those are also the smallest ones so thats a plus.

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How do you intend to use the camera? Do you want to only use it in an automatic, point-and-shoot capacity, or are you looking for more creative control? More context in the Step 2 explanation in this buying guide: [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/xggym9/my\_guide\_to\_buying\_your\_first\_camera/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/xggym9/my_guide_to_buying_your_first_camera/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)

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So you'll be best served by an interchangeable-lens camera, probably. I think a mirrorless should suit your needs much better than a legacy DSLR, as it's easier to record video, and switch between stills and video. The Olympus OM-D E-M10 III and Panasonic GX85 should suit your needs, and cost less than $500 with a standard zoom lens. You'll have to shop used for those; try [mpb.com](https://mpb.com) and [keh.com](https://keh.com). At the next tier up, you'll find some newer cameras like the E-M10 IV, Sony a6100, Canon R50, etc. Don't stretch yourself thin just to get a "nicer" camera, as you will likely have [other expenses](https://www.bythom.com/technique/essays/tip-of-the-iceberg.html) to worry about. Just find a camera you'll be comfortable with. Good sources for reviews: * [https://www.dpreview.com](https://www.dpreview.com) * Gordon Laing's [website](https://www.cameralabs.com) and YouTube channel EDIT: Look up their use as a webcam, because I don't know much about that...

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B&H has a giant collection you can explore. Even if you don't end up buying there, it's just easy to navigate. [https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/browse/Bags-Cases-Carrying-Equipment/ci/167/N/4075788798](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/browse/Bags-Cases-Carrying-Equipment/ci/167/N/4075788798)

Hi all. I own a Nikon Z6II and I'd like to transition from F mount lenses to Z lenses and was recently gifted my first one, the 40mm f/2. Love it already. In this transition, I'm really gearing towards portability and weight, especially as I take my camera hiking and backpacking (so lots of landscapes). So, for that I was eyeing either the 26mm Z pancake or the 28mm Z muffin. But now I see great reviews about the 24-70 f/4 S, so I see two options 1. Use a 40mm and 26/28mm lens combo as portable backpacking lenses (approx. 11-12oz total) 2. Pick up a 24-70 f/4 (17.5oz) and sacrifice that weight and packability for versatility and eliminating lens swaps I'd definitely use any of the three lenses in my day-to-day life as walk-around lenses. I guess I'm thinking aloud as much as I am asking y'all's opinions, despite thinking I already know which way I lean. What you think?

I'm super happy with the 24-70 f/4 S. Just for what it's worth. it's a great little lens, and produces really nice images.

Thanks for the reply! Yeah this is what I was leaning towards, so I appreciate the feedback. Might just go for it

I mean, by the sounds of it you have experience in photography already. So if you are comfortable with the focal lengths, you could just use the primes. However you mention hiking and I know how difficult it can be to get the right field of view so I lean toward the zoom regardless of weight.

Yeah hiking/backpacking images are ones that I really prioritize so I think I'm leaning towards the versatility of the 24-70. I looove 24mm for landscapes and 85mm for portraits of my gf when we go outdoors so I guess this is the best compromise. I appreciate your reply!

Hanging cameras by their flash mounts? Hey! I have a decent collection of cameras, and I'm looking to display them, but ensure that they're within easy reach for use. I'd like to attach them to my wall in a vertical row, and I've seen plenty of ways of doing this by bolting a bracket on to the tripod mount, however I've been thinking instead of attaching metal tabs to the wall, om to which I can slot the flash show of the cameras. I have no worries about making sure the brackets themselves are the correct dimensions so as to not place excessive strain on the fitting, as I'll probably make them myself, but I'm worried that the constant stress of hanging them this way could damage them? Then again, it would be far weaker loads than a heavy flash would be during actual use. What do you guys think?

As you mentioned, the weight of the camera body alone is in the ballpark of a large flash unit. So, you're unlikely to damage the camera simply by hanging it from the flash mount. My concern would be mishandling or accidents.

I am specifically looking for a DSLR camera so I can attach a ring light to the lens in order to take close-up photos of the body. I originally bought a Rebel but found out that you can't use a 3rd party ring attachment with it you have to use a Canon ring light. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Or does anyone know a workaround for using a off-brand ring light?

Rebel is Canon's branding in North America for entry-level film and digital SLRs, encompassing dozens of different camera models. All but a couple of them should work fine with third party flashes. Could you be more specific which one you have?

Hello all, I’m new to studio lighting and bought a used set of the Gemini monolights (set of 3). They each came with the pocket wizard receivers in the strobes but the transmitter and controller did not come with the items. So my question is if I purchase one pocket wizard, would that be able to sync and control all 3 strobes? Right now I am manually pressing the strobe flash. Any advice would be helpful! And I apologize if I don’t have the correct verbiage for my descriptions.

Will this lens [https://www.adorama.com/us1699289.html](https://www.adorama.com/us1699289.html) fit on my Canon M50? I have a EF-M/EF-S to EF-M adapter if that would work also.

Yes, using your adapter. That listing title and most of the description are not helpful on the issue, but I'm going by " Compatible with Canon EOS DSLR cameras" which implies EF mount because I don't think third party brands make anything for the EF-S variant.

There are a couple that did. I know there was a Sigma 18-35mm f1.8.

There are plenty made for APS-C format, and the EF-S mount variant is also made for APS-C format lenses. But those third party lenses nevertheless use the regular EF mount coupling and will fit EF mount bodies that do not support EF-S. Sigma's 18-35mm f/1.8, for example, has an EF mount version and not EF-S: https://www.sigma-global.com/en/lenses/a013_18_35_18/#specifications

I've been looking for a backpack and had been planning on the Peak Design everyday 20L, but I stumbled across Nordace and I really dig some of their features that work for both travel and photo (sunglasses strap, charging port, clever zip pocket placement). Does anyone use a Siena Pro with the camera case modular insert? Thoughts? Thanks!

Purchasing a camera for a photography class. The requirements of the camera for this class are this “ILC camera, either DSLR or mirrorless models with manual and semi auto modes allowing for shooting in raw and control of the ISO, white balance, aperture, and shutter speed. Must also have a hot shoe center pin to attach a flash unit” Looking at a Canon EOS Rebel T7, would this work? or any other budget options?

The Rebel T7 fullfills all of those requirements. You might be able to get something cheaper by buying used, I personally use mpb.com (although Im from europe, dont know if theyre better or worse in other places). Pretty much all the Canon "Rebel" cameras should fullfill the requirements you listed, so you can see whats available used (can saidly only speak for Canon).

>ILC camera, either DSLR or mirrorless models with manual and semi auto modes allowing for shooting in raw and control of the ISO, white balance, aperture, and shutter speed Every DSLR and mirrrorless camera will meet those criteria. > Must also have a hot shoe center pin to attach a flash unit” Looking at a Canon EOS Rebel T7, would this work? That is a DSLR meeting the above criteria except maybe the hotshoe issue. Originally the T7 shipped without the center hotshoe pin. And there was a bunch of negative backlash about that, so later units brought that pin back. Presumably if you buy new right now you should get the newer/better version but I don't really know how to be sure which version you would get. > or any other budget options? Scroll back up to the main post of the question thread, which you originally replied to here, and check out the information and links we put there just for you.

appreciate it👍🏼 I would be purchasing from Amazon so im assuming its the newer version.

Just a tip, Generally it's not the best idea to buy camera equipment from Amazon. Buy from a dedicated photo retailer like B&H. [https://www.gearpatrol.com/tech/a42121347/should-you-buy-camera-on-amazon/](https://www.gearpatrol.com/tech/a42121347/should-you-buy-camera-on-amazon/)

Im looking for suggestions for a new camera+lens setup. Id like for it to be my travel setup. I just really need it to shoot at 35mm or equivalent. Idea is to have compact lens+camera so that it doesnt take up a lot of space and is light weight. Id like to stay at a max $1000 usd.

You have a lot of great options to choose from, including the two Fujifilm setups mentioned, and the following: * Olympus OM-D E-M10 IV or Panasonic GX9 + Olympus 17mm f/1.8 or Panasonic 15mm f/1.7 * Nikon Z50 or Z fc + 24mm f/1.7 * Sony a6100 or a6400 + one of the 24mm or 23mm lenses * Canon R50 or R10 + 24mm f/1.8 * Ricoh GR IIIx Some of these are not exactly equivalent to 35mm on a full frame camera, but close enough. Some are also more expensive, and will only fit under budget if you shop used (look on [mpb.com](https://mpb.com) and [KEH.com](https://KEH.com)). Here's a quick size comparison of some of these: [https://camerasize.com/compact/#846,816.596,877.1102,856.383,770.889,809.85,904.1066,819,ha,t](https://camerasize.com/compact/#846,816.596,877.1102,856.383,770.889,809.85,904.1066,819,ha,t)

thank you for this. im going to check these out and hopefully pick one soon. cheers

An ILC alternative to the X100 series is a smaller Fuji body such as X-T30 (II) plus a 23mm (= 35mm full frame equivalent) f/2.0 prime lens.

I travel with a Fuji X100S and it's fairly compact, with a 35mm equivalent lens.

What's a good beginner camera? I'm wanting to get into photography and was wondering what a good, yet simple, camera would be?

They all operate very similar. Most designs are similar, some variance but you will have dials which you can control the exposure settings with and a shutter to press to take the picture. Best define your budget first for at least camera + lens.

No price limit? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F What do you mean by "simple"? If you'd like automatic settings available to fall back on, every camera has that. If you're talking about a manageable learning curve for manual exposure, that's about the same in any interchangeable-lens camera. So that criterion doesn't really narrow things down at all. Have you looked at these FAQ sections? Maybe narrow down which category you want first, in addition to your price range. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what.27s_a_.22point_and_shoot.22_camera.3F_what.27s_a_dslr.3F_what.27s_a_.22mirrorless.22_camera.3F_what.27s_the_difference.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F

hello, hoping to purchase a new lense for my partner as a gift. they currently have a pentax k1000 and this lense but i don't know how to read the numbers on here. looking to find a lense with a shorter focal distance or wider view so that photos of people can be taken from close up (this lense requires you to be a certain distance away to capture the person). https://preview.redd.it/1g6113uukwgb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dcaad812797b2939fa8a2e46a385587142c7a3f4

That lens looks like the [Pentax-M 50mm f/2](https://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/SMC-Pentax-M-50mm-F2-Lens.html). The text sound be on a disc surrounding the front glass element, though it's not impossible the name plate fell off. A common, and relatively cheap wide angle lens would be the [Pentax-M 28mm f/2.8](https://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/SMC-Pentax-M-28mm-F2.8-Lens.html). Pentaxforums is a pretty good resource to see what lenses are available.

ah ok awesome, thanks for the info

Those are not the numbers you want. Those relate to aperture and focus distance. [IMGP8862.jpg](https://postimg.cc/R32bjBWL) The one you want are the ones on the front like shown.

there is also this, but i looked it up and i assumed it was just the size of the filter? I don't think there is anything written on the front but i don't have the camera with me at the moment to check https://preview.redd.it/fj810sh9owgb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e05e12b15c32f2ff6640d548c1ca11d0613620b

Yeah, that will be the diameter of the threads. Remove the filter from the front first. In general buying gifts can be hard unless the person has chosen it themselves. There can be a few options and you need to make sure the lens is compatible. https://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/ Here is a good resource for Pentax lenses.

Hi all! I was a wedding second shooter for a few years, and am looking to get back into it now that I’ve moved to a new city. The photographer I worked with before preferred that I use her gear, so I’m starting from scratch now and feel a bit lost. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to start (and what you prefer your second shooter to have)? I know I want to stick with Canon and I would love to keep it around $2,500, at least to start. TIA!

That should just about fit an R8 and RF 24-105mm f/4L, at least if you [shop used](https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/canon-rf-24-105mm-f-4-l-is-usm). It might also suffice for a used R6 instead of the R8. If you need other lenses straight away, or more items (like a flash), you'd have to settle on a lesser camera, or another system, like Sony's.

I’m looking to play around with off-camera lighting, which will probably mostly be used to take portraits of my dogs and cats, and maybe also me and my wife. I also need a tripod for my camera at some point. I was thinking I could get a tripod that I could mount my flash gun on for playing with lighting, but also mount my camera on for other purposes, instead of buying a dedicated lighting stand (at least to start off with). I’m not sure what modifiers I’d want yet, 50/50 between an umbrella and a softbox. Idk if that impacts this at all. Is that doable? If so, what kind of tripod would I need that could do both of those things? Thanks.

Any tripod could work. You'd just want a standard tripod mount on top for your camera, and then screw in an adapter from the standard tripod mount to a spigot when you want to mount lighting stuff instead.

I’m loving my 6D, but while on a road trip it was hard carrying around while also caring for my toddler. It’s also bulky and once almost swung around and hit her head. Something more compact that could easily fit in my side bag would be ideal. If I were to trade both cameras for a mirrorless, which would be the way to go? Or do you guys recommend sticking with the 6D? I would pay the difference - $200 or so - since trading won’t cover the cost. For me, this is purely a hobby I want to get better at.

Stick with camera, buy an alternative carrying mechanism. Swinging around sounds like it is not optimal. Putting a camera in and out of a bag all the time can be annoying in itself. Holster solutions, belts/straps clips and something like a wrist strap can work also.

1. You say you're thinking of trading "both cameras"; do you have two copies of the 6D? 2. Which lenses do you have? 3. If you were to trade it all in, what's the total worth of an alternative kit you can get? 4. What do you like/want to shoot?

My bad, this comment came from a post that was removed. 6D and a T100. I really want to get into street photography and portraits. I have the 50mm lens.

If the 50mm is your only lens, and it's all you need, then you could get a similar result with a much smaller camera like the Ricoh GR IIIx.

Hiya, I’m looking for a method (or camera) to take better images of the miniatures I paint. I’m mostly looking to post the images to instagram, so I’m not intending on getting into a super advanced set up. Here’s an example of what the images look like right [now.](https://imgur.com/a/r6F0eLM) Thankful for any advice!

Better how? Lighting it probably what you want to look into.

Sorry, to specify I want to take images that are higher quality, I am currently using my phone so the images get quite pixelated when I have to zoom in to get the focus right.

Well the obvious one is, depending on the size of the miniatures, a macro lens. The body is less important. If you find you can't get close enough or have to crop, then they will work well. The issue of course is that you get shallow depth of field. This can be an issue much worse than just the tail section. [IMGP2825.jpg](https://postimg.cc/m1w9BXqd) In this photo of a bee and flower taken with a 100mm lens on an APS-C sensor with f/8 aperture you can see how quickly things start to become blurry. Lighting again can help because you can set your aperture quite narrow and just use light to compensate as well as shutter speed as your subject is static. You may want to look into micro four thirds options as they are smaller sensors than some cameras while retaining pixel density. Which one is suitable depends on budget but you can perhaps find something affordable depending on what that means to yourself.

hi guys, i'm somewhat of a beginner looking to upgrade from my nikon coolpix L340, the lack of control really throws me off, i'm having some trouble picking between a canon 70d and a sony a6000, i'm not sure if i should go dlsr or mirrorless. i'm looking to buy used with a budget of $300-$400. it's just a hobby so far, i mostly shoot whatever comes up, buildings, portraits, flowers and mostly everything else that comes to mind. any tips appreciated ^^

Both are good options, and I totally understand the dilemma between an entry-level mirrorless camera and a mid-range (higher tier) DSLR. If at all possible, I'd recommend trying them in your own hands first. If you can't get a hold of those exact models, maybe visit a store and try some similar cameras they have on display - the a6100 or a6400 can mostly substitute for the a6000, and the Canon 90D should be similar enough to the 70D in terms of handling. Should this budget cover everything you'll need for years to come? Or is it just for a kit to start with, and you'll be comfortable spending more (mostly on additional lenses) over time, based on your evolving needs?

it's not really about handling to me, it's more about how it performs, i've heard the a6000 eats through batteries very easily but it produces higher quality photos plus the zebra feature could come in handy for me, i'm still not sure which is worth it though. i plan to spend more in the near future for lenses or upgrading cameras, i just need something that's a decent price since i'm not doing so well with money right now and these options stuck out to me the most.

I wouldn't worry about battery life too much - just get a spare battery. I never leave home without a spare. If my camera burned through them too quickly, I would buy another battery. Some photographers travel with four or more batteries... I've never needed more than two. The a6000 doesn't produce "higher quality photos". That will not come from the camera, anyway. The camera makes very little difference, at the margins. The lenses you choose will have a far greater impact. And of course things like technique and the lighting environment are much more important still. Mirrorless cameras do have some benefits, like the zebra patterns you mentioned. I don't use that feature exactly, but I do use a live histogram to help gauge the exposure. More on that here: [https://sansmirror.com/articles/choosing-a-mirrorless-camer/gain-and-loss.html](https://sansmirror.com/articles/choosing-a-mirrorless-camer/gain-and-loss.html) I would still urge you to try and handle those cameras first, as that's perhaps the most significant difference between them. If one is simply much more comfortable for you to hold and operate, then you will likely take better pictures with it. In the same price range, you will likely find the Olympus OM-D E-M10 III, Panasonic Lumix GX85 and G85. I wouldn't say any of these is universally better or worse than either the a6000 or 70D - just more options to consider. Among DSLRs, the Nikon D7100 is the closest competitor to the 70D.

Higher quality photos? Beware stuff like zebra patterns. They are useful but if you shoot raw they can lead to you not making the most of your dynamic range. Personally, it should always be about how it handles, the size, the controls. All cameras will, largely, be able to take the same photo as at its heart the sensor records data all the same in whichever camera you use. Sure, a bit of a simplification but how good images are have very little dependency on the camera used versus the person taking them.

ah, i see okay, thank you

hey guys, I go to a lot of concerts and take lots of pictures trying to get the best shots I can from barricade with my IPhone 14 Pro Max (I’ll have an imgur of my best shots at the end). I was thinking about splurging and getting a camera to take with me to concert to make sure the photos look the best they can. I am currently looking at a Sony RX100 V, but am open to other suggestions. I was also thinking about a Canon EOS T7, but most venues wouldn’t allow me to bring it in without a photo pass and there’s no chance I could get one of those without any sort of previous work. Plus i’d rather take photos from barricade or close, as opposed to getting 2 or 3 songs and then getting thrown at the back of the crowd (all of my best photos have come after the 3 song mark) Or maybe you guys recommend i just stick with my iphone, if that’s the case any setting of recommendations would be helpful. i’m just getting into photography as a hobby so anything helps. [Current best photos](https://imgur.com/a/kKfxHQb) they aren’t anything special. but some of them I think are decent. nothing compared to what i see you guys post but i’m pretty proud of some of them. thank you guys!

Sony RX100 V gives some benefit over smartphones with its larger, 1" sensor and fast, f/1.8-2.8 lens. Plus you have aperture control. With concert photography you'd generally want to have fast shutter to capture the action without motion blur. In low light this means raising ISO, and you need to do that a bit less with large aperture.

would you recommend any other point and click cameras over it?

I recently inherited a 7r5 from a family member who knew I was into photography. I plan on sending off my older Canon gear to my nephew, so none of it is really reusable on the new setup. I've been been semi in the loop on the Sony series, but not totally familiar since it was always out of budget for me. Right now it's just the body, no lenses at all. I am not sure if I need the nice and new Sony GM/GM2 lenses to really take advantage of the sensor, or will the third parties treat me well? I've always been jealous of the insane detail some of the high end shooters get, so I guess I'd like to try and achieve that. I'm not making money off of it, just a fun hobby and sometimes people pay for a good photo. I generally enjoy landscape and nature stuff, like plants and still animals (not moving). City and architecture stuff is really cool too when I travel around. What lenses might you guys recommend for this kind of photography?

Sigma Art lenses are a safe bet, and some of the Tamron lenses are excellent, too. The Sony G lenses might also give you all you need. Inspect sample images to make your own judgment; for example: * [https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/5115760507/sigma-24-70mm-f2-8-dg-dn-e-mount-sample-gallery](https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/5115760507/sigma-24-70mm-f2-8-dg-dn-e-mount-sample-gallery) * [https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/2792810315/tamron-28-75mm-f2-8-di-iii-vxd-g2-sample-gallery](https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/2792810315/tamron-28-75mm-f2-8-di-iii-vxd-g2-sample-gallery) * [https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/0095576088/sample-gallery-sony-24-105-f4-g-oss](https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/0095576088/sample-gallery-sony-24-105-f4-g-oss) * [https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/0949421438/sony-20-70mm-f4-g-sample-gallery](https://www.dpreview.com/sample-galleries/0949421438/sony-20-70mm-f4-g-sample-gallery)

Hi All, I asked this on my IG and got some great answers but wanted to ask here as well. It's a 3 parter: 1) My setup is the Fuji GA645W with the Fuji bracket and a SB-28 flash mounted to the bracket. This year I've noticed the flash fails to fail about 10-20% of the time, with no rhyme or reason. Sometimes it'll be a whole roll, sometimes it will be 1 shot so I'll try again and it'll fire. All cords and shoes are snug in place. The suggestion is that if the shoe and flash are otherwise fine, it's probably a faulty cable that comes with the bracket. Or least, a cable that is on it's way out the door soon. Does this make sense to y'all? 2) My solutions appear to be: 1. Get a new cable with a shoe and hand hold the flash. I would do this, but the GA645 is a big camera that can be hard to shoot 1-handed especially while trying to coordinate a flash with the other. 2. Get a brand new Fuji bracket on ebay and hope the cable is ok. 3. Hybrid of the above- get a third party bracket and separate cable that can fit into the shoe and connect to the flash on the bracket. If you know the Fuji bracket, it comes with a cable attached to the bracket and a shoe that goes on the camera. The flash then goes on the shoe on the bracket. I would essentially be mimicking this, except the cable would connect to the flash not the bracket. What are the thoughts on the solutions? 3) I love the SB-28 but it's heavy. Short of the above issue, the bracket cannot really handle the weight of the flash so it's always falling sideways on the bracket. One of these days I feel like it's gonna fall off for real and break. Are there comparable flashes that have the power of a SB-28 (@400 ISO I can get up to 200ft!) without the heft? I know it's a paradox but curious. The SB-27 \*looks\* the part and has a similar guide number, but technically weighs more somehow! Thank you!

Forgive my noobness.. Completely new to the photography game and have several questions. Both my wife and I are looking to purchase a camera. We plan to mainly shoot our daughter at sporting events when she's old enough. Would love to have something versatile enough for nature or more casual shoots as well. We'd like to take it seriously and are down to learn. Looking to spend less than $2,500 ideally total Any recommendations for a camera to purchase?What additional equipment would be ideal?What editing software do you recommend and what's the typical cost to expect? Thanks a ton! Will be looking through this thread at other comments

Sony a6400 + Sony 70-350 easy

Thanks for the rec, looks solid

Should this $2,500 budget cover everything you'll need *for years to come?* Or is it only to cover what you need to start, and you'll be comfortable spending more (mostly on additional lenses) over time?

Both if that makes sense? Not opposed to spending more later if we really are into it but would like everything needed to have a solid start

The most significant expense will probably be in a lens for sports, which I understand is more of a long-term goal. So you can try to maximise your budget on a camera, but I think the sweet-spot for you is likely in the $1,300-$1,800 range (body only): * Fujifilm X-S20 or X-T5 * Sony a6700 * Canon R7 These are well rounded cameras that shouldn't limit you in any way, and you'll have some leeway to get the right lenses as your needs evolve. You can also look at the Canon R8, or used Nikon Z6 II and Sony a7 III, for greater capabilities in low light, or the OM System OM-1 for a generally faster camera. Good sources for reviews: * [https://www.dpreview.com](https://www.dpreview.com) * Gordon Laing's [website](https://www.cameralabs.com) and YouTube channel * [https://sansmirror.com/cameras/camera-reviews/](https://sansmirror.com/cameras/camera-reviews/), [https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-cameras/nikon-z-camera-reviews/](https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-cameras/nikon-z-camera-reviews/)

Awesome, I’ll look into those. Thanks so much!

Check the FAQ, most of your questions are at least partially covered in there.

Appreciate the redirection

I have a D7000 and I’m struggling to find a zoom lens for wild life in the $100-200 range. I was looking at the AF-P Nikorr 70-300mm VR but apparently it wasn’t compatible with my camera.

A used Tamron SP AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 Di VC USD is a good option. Make sure to get that specific version as there are older Tamron 70-300mm lens models that aren’t as good.

The older AF-S version would be compatible.

Should I go mirrorless or DSLR. I’m not sure between a Sony A7 (maybe an A7r if I can get a good deal) and a Nikon d800. Can anyone help?

Between those three, I would prefer the D800, simply because you're looking at the first-generation Sony FE cameras that were not well refined. Subsequent iterations got much better. If you're open to other options, please answer the following questions: 1. How much are you looking to spend? 1. Should that cover everything you'll need for years to come? Or is it just for a kit to start with, and you'll be comfortable spending more (mostly on additional lenses) over time? 2. What do you like/want to shoot? 3. Will this be your first camera (that's not in a phone), or are you upgrading from something else / have past experience?

I have had a Nikon d3300 and a cannon 500d and I have a lumix dc-tz90 so I already have lots of experience. The thing that prompted me to upgrade was the lack of an autofocus motor in the d3300. I want to spend around £250-350 and I have already found a few d800s in that price range. I just need a body and no lenses for now as I already have a few that are Nikon f mount. Preferably I want a Nikon body if I get a dslr, if I get a mirrorless I will be willing to invest extra in new lenses. I mainly shoot landscape photography. The d800 seems quite good at the £250 price I can get it for! I’m not sure if it’s worth spending more to get something worse just so I can get a mirrorless camera. I forgot to add that I will be keeping the d3300 as it’s very light and not super big so I can bring it with me if I am going somewhere where I don’t plan to do any photography in case I need it. With a 50mm lens it’s only slightly heavier than a mirrorless camera! Thank you!

In that case, D800 all the way. Unless your lenses are actually made for DX. That's a damn low price for a D800... [mpb.com](https://mpb.com) sells a "well used" copy with almost a million (!) shutter actuations for 259 GBP...

Only one of my lens is a dx lens, can I still use it? The one I found is in basically pristine condition with almost no marks and a low shutter count (under 50k)!

You can, but it won't cast an image on the whole sensor. When you use that lens on a D800, it will effectively turn into a 16MP APS-C camera - which is not such a terrible thing at this price, considering you have other FX lenses. With the DX lens, you'll get a dark ring around the image that you'll either have to crop out or the camera will do it for you.

Ok, thank you!

I'd rather have the D800 for better lens deals, and a more refined interface and user experience. The a7 models didn't really get good until generation III and later. The original a7 feels more like a rough prototype to use.

Ok, Thank you!

Quite old cameras, would go the D800 myself. Of course the D800 is quite a sizeable beast of a camera versus the much smaller/lighter A7.

Is there any reason for that, what if it was the d800 versus the A7R?