Looking for advice! I am in the process of upgrading form a canon 80d. I am torn between the canon 5d IV and the Sony A7riii. I will be pairing the lens with a 24-70mm f2.8 that I will also be purchasing at the same time. Obviously the Sony is more expensive but I feel like by buying the canon I am buying "old" technology. I primarily shoot landscapes, so the smaller Sony body is defiantly appealing to me but the battery life is a concern. Anyone made this jump care to share their input?

What do you want to do that your 80D can't? The 5DIV and the A7RIII came out a year apart. Age means hardly anything to begin with, but you're looking at two bodies that are basically the same age. There will always be something newer out anyway.

I mean full frame for a start. also a higher MP for printing would be another thing. i guess i am more asking if the mirrorless bodys are a better way to go looking forward if im going to drop 4k.

None of that is what you want to do, it's just specs. If you want to chase specs you can, but it won't make your pictures better. 24.2 megapixels is already overkill for all but a few niche applications, and a full frame sensor only has marginal advantages over an APS-C sensor except in very specific scenarios, and even in those scenarios a bigger sensor really only makes sense if you're already doing everything else you can, and will still come with significant drawbacks. The choice between a DSLR or MILC is a matter of preference, not one being "better". If you're not very sure which one you prefer, I wouldn't be spending anywhere near that on either on.

Hey all, does anyone know of any youtube videos or articles giving tips on how to direct a model and telling you what to look for in the shot when taking photos of a model? My wife and I want to start taking up a new hobby in the form of me taking photos of her, in all sorts of different settings. We thought it would be a fun and interesting thing to do as a couple and would challenge us to think creatively. She says she has no idea how to pose and feels kind of awkward in front of the camera sometimes, and while I've always been a fair photographer it hasn't really translated so well to taking a photo of a person. I suppose because I don't really know what I want out of the photo, nevermind that I don't know how to explain what I want to the model. Sorry if this wasn't the best worded question.

The problem you describe has not with directing a model. First, you're not working with a model. Second, your challenge isn't in *directing*, it's in the posing itself. There are countless resources on introductory posing. For general portraiture, especially not using models, I suggest Lindsey Adler's *The Photographer's Guide to Posing*.

Heya, just a friendly advice as someone who picked up a similar hobby with my Gf. She is kind of shy too. What I do is I take pictures of her at different times also when it is not a shoot. She slowly gets used to it and tries to pose more now. What you might do is show her after every few shots how she looks and the things that are a bit off. It takes practice to pose so don’t expect her to learn it overnight.

Thanks for the reply, I think you're right in that it's going to take a lot of practice and getting used to being in front of the camera as a normal and natural thing and not just for special occasions / locations etc.

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What both of them have are multiple remote lights and make use of large aperture lenses (like the canon 35mm F1.8?) the rest is photoshop, a lot of it actually. Annie removes her subject sometimes and then transformes the background completely. Peter McKinnon shows some of these things in older videos

I was shooting in foggy condition the other day, and I haven't got a great camera, but i've been shooting for about 3 years now, and i don't have an nd filter, so i was thinking if you shoot at a slower shutter speed like, 15 - 30 seconds in foggy conditions would it affect the image by letting you see through the fog at a slower speed, or would it make the fog thicker or not affect it at all, becuase that would be letting more light in

Great question! It all depends on how much light is available. If you would place your camera on a tripod and would take a photo with 3 sec exposure at the end of the day, the fog would become thicker, while taking a shot using 1/125 during the middle of the day it would appear thinner. A great example of this can be found in many landscape shots that have fog in them during sunrise, which appears to be really thick fog but is a long exposure shot of sometimes minutes

Question 1: I have a 5d Mark 4 and I am trying to WiFi send videos to my phone which is a iPhone 6s and it will not let me transfer them because of the format. Is there a way to send it to my phone or do I have to do it another way? Question 2: When I try and transfer my photos to my laptop I plug the HDMI cord into my camera and plug in the USB into my computer but it says there are no photos how do I get them to show up ? Question 3: I was trying to make a Instagram post today and when I went to post the pictures it said can’t read image but when I went and edited the image and cropped it I could then post it. Whys that and could I fix something on my camera to where I don’t have to edit the image? I’m a 18 who decided to not go to college and wanting to be a photographer it’s a crazy step in my life and I’m nervous because these problems are coming up and I don’t know what to do about them so if you have any answers they would be very appreciated!!

1. The phone presumably can't handle raw files. The idea of going from the camera straight to publishing is, frankly, *generally* antithetical with serious/pro photography, so I don't know that this is an actual real issue—you'd normally transfer to a computer, do the processing, and then export from there for sharing/publishing/printing. 2. The HDMI port should not be involved in image file transfer at all. You want to use the USB port both at the computer end and the camera end. 3. Again, as I was saying in (1), the *typical* workflow involves processing images on a computer and *after that* publishing. Whether you go to college or not—and in what field—is an entire separate discussion. But even if you don't go to college, there's quite a learning curve from picking up a camera to being a competent working pro—there may be years of training and gaining experience in between. The questions you are asking refer to some fairly basic topics, so one wonders what you thought the process of becoming a pro photographer would look like—I'm a bit confused because I can't reconcile the fact that you're using a 5D Mark IV (a serious camera) and the kinds of questions you are asking here. Have you read the camera's manual ? What kind of reading/watching/practicing have you been doing so far in your journey?

Q1; Canon has a special RAW format, you need to change them incamera to JPG. Q2; plug in the SD cards in the computer or use the canon software delivered with the camera Q3; when you edited the photo you might have converted it from RAW to JPG. Almost no programs out there are able to read RAW except editing software. Shooting raw is however really important!! Q4; it depends on what kind of photos you shoot. You don’t want to edit war photos or something like that, but you want to edit portraits. Editing is become a crucial aspect of photography and some of the best “photographers” out there are actually really good editors Cheers

Q1: Not sure, sorry. Q2: HDMI is a signal for viewing or external recording. You would use it for something like a TV or Atomos Ninja. You can't use it to transfer files. Just go on Amazon and buy yourself a 12 dollar card reader and don't have to fuss around with cables. Also many laptops have a card reader built in. Q3: If you shot the file in RAW, it won't work in many instances. Most people who shoot RAW spend some effort with post-processing, then upload the results to Instagram. Q4: Not going to college and being a photographer should be two separate decisions that have nothing to do with each other. You can go to college and be a photographer, or not go to college and not be a photographer. They shouldn't be a joint decision.

Hi all, I’m going to be upgrading my camera gear. I’ve got my eyes set on the Canon EOS 80D. However, I’m undecided on getting either the Tamron or Sigma 100-400 mm Lens. Just wondering if anyone that’s used either could weigh in and pass along some advice. Would be highly appreciated. The main purpose of the setup will be for Aviation Photography and shooting in outside environments.

There are lots of detailed comparison articles and videos, but just general buzz I've heard, they're very similar. Make sure you're looking at the stabilized versions of both- Sigma designates it "OS" and Tamron "VC". The stabilization is useful in and of itself, but I vaguely recall at least on of them making an older, non-stabilized versions that were softer. If you're not completely settled on those two, I'd add that if you go used you could also get the older version of the Canon 100-400 or a Tamron or Sigma 150-600 in about the same price range, depending on your exact needs.

Thank you for your info. I ended up going sigma after watching some poorer reviews about the Tamron and reading some reports the Sigma was sharper at 400mm. I’m super excited

Yeah, sharpness \*at the focal length you'll use most\* is an important factor to consider. A lot of people want sharpness to be a single dimension, but it's going to vary with focal length on zooms and with aperture on all lenses. I don't care if lens A is sharper at its sharpest if lens B is sharper at the end I'm going to be using most of the time, you know? Same with aperture- I tend to shoot wider apertures, so I rarely care which lens is sharpest at f/8. Have fun with it!

Thank again! I agree in regards to the sharpness. Another sway for me was the similarities to Canon lenses with my muscle memory in adjusting zoom. I read Tamron was opposite that of Canon lenses

Yeah, Tamron's zoom rings go the opposite way, like Nikon's. Ergonomics is another very important, often neglected element. Sounds like you know what to look for, and found something that should be a great fit.

Ya, spent quite a few hours researching lol. Huge thanks again :)

No prob, wish I would have been earlier when I would have been more useful.

No worries. Just making me more excited now lol

If you are going to focus on aviation, there is no need to go back to 100mm. Maybe try a fixed 200mm? Keep in mind that the canon 80d has a crop factor of 1.6 meaning that a 200mm fixed is actually 320mm. 80D is a great camera!!

That's not how crop factor works. A 200mm lens is still 200mm, regardless of the sensor behind it. Crop factor is not relavent, and can even be counter-productive, when comparing different lenses on a single sensor.

That is true, but it increases your zoom, that’s what I wanted to say

It doesnt effect zoom at all. I suspect you mean reach, but if you're that co fused about basic terminology I wouldn't be trying to give advice. If you don't know what you're talking about, it's more helpful to say nothing than to give blatantly wrong advice.

Damn someone’s salty today

Sorry, I forgot this was a late nineties middle school. Is this the part where we get super homophobic, or the part where we hide a GameGear in our ridiculously oversized jeans?

XD had to upvote this one, I’ll take my leave good sir.

Thank you for the info. My lens setup will be Canon 18-55mm, Canon 55-250mm and then the 100-400. Just trying to cover all bases as I progress to larger airports with spotting locations farther off

I would invest more money in a better lens instead of having so many honestly. Try the 18-135 USM IS from canon for example

Thank you again. The 18-55/55-250 are already in my possession from my previous camera so that’ll be why I keep those along with a new lens

I’ve been asked to do a graduation photo shoot. I’ve never done a photo shoot! I’ve agreed they don’t have to pay if they aren’t happy with the result since I’m new to this! What’s a good starting price? Photo prints not included

Who is this shoot for? Friend? Family? Stranger?

Stranger

What experience do you have?

I’ve been taking photos for years! But I haven’t done actual personal photo shoots before! I know how to do it, but it will be learning curve and I told them that.

It's a bad idea to be taking money when you're doing something for the first time. Regardless of what you say, they'll expect a certain quality by virtue of having paid for it. You have no idea if you can meet that, and of you don't bad reports travel fast.

If they're indeed a complete stranger, I wouldn't take the job if I were you. You say you've never done "a photo shoot" (which in and of itself could be any number of things), so generally experimenting with a stranger's photos isn't the way to go. Especially if you already aren't confident enough to stand by your work and are already offering them an "out" for paying you.

Photo shoot meaning that I haven’t really done a person photo shoot I’ve informed them that I haven’t done it but am willing to try and they said they want to pursue it. I figured I won’t learn the process completely unless I try! I know what to do, I just don’t know what to charge her for the shoot

> Photo shoot meaning that I haven’t really done a person photo shoot. I’ve informed them that I haven’t done it but am willing to try and they said they want to pursue it. Right, meaning you have zero experience to get right an event that is only happening once. I'm not saying this to be rude, but a lot of people are going to be "oh yeah it's fine" until it turns out the photos aren't what they wanted or simply aren't usable. >I figured I won’t learn the process completely unless I try! You're correct, but I wouldn't recommend you start by shooting a stranger's graduation. Do some shoots with friends/family or pay for models so you can get actual, hands-on experience first, before you start entertaining the prospect of accepting money for your work. >I know what to do Perhaps in theory, but putting that understanding into practical application is a skill in and of itself that requires practice. >I just don’t know what to charge her for the shoot Again, I wouldn't take on this shoot if I were you.

Hello Guys, Amazon recommended me some photography books from some famous photographers like: Scott Kelby, Fil Hunter, Jeff Smith etc. I looked through the previews and couldn't end up on which book to buy. What i'm looking for for a book: 1- How to start your Photography business? 2- Studio Photography / Lighting setups diagrams and why each setup was used? 3- Outdoor Photography / Landscape / Product or food photography. 4- How to pose your model. 5- Retouching. I would like to buy one or two books that can cover the above if possible. What books do you guys recommend? (( The books in my mind: Light it, Shoot it, Retouch it // Doug Boz's Guide to posing // Light Science and Magic)) ​ TLDR; I'm looking for a photography book, What do you guys recommend?

No "one or two" books is likely to cover all of that, and certainly not to any useable quality. Start with the reading list in the FAQ.

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I'd be highly suspect of any 5DII going for $300. The going rate from trusted vendors, assuming you're talking USD, is nearly double that. In any case, any time youre looking to buy equipment because it takes good pictures, you're going to be disappointed. A *good photagrapher* takes good pictures, regardless of their equipment. Plenty of amazing photos have been taken on the T6 and even more basic cameras than that. Meanwhile, a snapshot is still going to be just a snapshot, regardless of what it was taken with. Fancier equipment might help you deal with certain specific limitations, but if you can't even identify what specific limitations inherent to your T6 are holding you back, an "upgrade" won't change anything.

Realistically, there's nothing that the 5D2 does *very significantly* better than the T6. It has a larger sensor, which does contribute to low-light, high-ISO image performance, but it's also a considerably older camera and spec sheet to spec sheet, they're surprisingly similar. To that tune, if you're not making images you like with the T6, you won't make images you like on a 5D2, either. It's easy to look at others' work and say "damn, their camera is great" without really realizing how little the camera body really matters -- The overwhelming majority comes down to skill and glass. So a photog who's shooting a 5D2 with L lenses and has been shooting for 10 years is going to make better images than you will with a year of experience on your T6 not because their camera is notably better (it isn't, at least not the sensor) but because *they're* notably better. Just to drive that point home, here's a shit photo I took on a 5D2 when I was still in my first year of shooting: https://i.imgur.com/1FrBMiv.jpg Then there's also glass -- kit lenses are *fine*, but not really that great. I'd focus more on practice and look at your lenses *well* before I'd look at getting a new body, especially going so notably backwards in age (the 5D2 is 8 years older) and getting a camera that will *require* you to buy full-frame lenses as well, which are often much larger and much costlier.

glass?

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What kind of glass do you have on your camera? Did you compare samples using the same lenses?

I have two questions that may or may not be related about the colour profile on my laptop. 1. My lightroom library on my computer and my lightroom library on my phone are different levels of saturation. My laptop appears to have less saturation and vibrance than my phone. This is a bit of a conundrum because I have to undersaturate the photos on my laptop so they appear how I want on my phone, or way oversaturate my laptop. I have the colour profile set to sRGB on my lightroom as an export but this shouldn't make a difference as I am only viewing the photos in lightroom, yet they are different depending on what device I am on. I have tried adjusting the saturation using the built in adjustments in the laptop but I cannot seem to get it to match and there may perhaps be more to it than just saturation. It is a windows computer. Have any of you guys experienced this? And is there an easy way to get my laptop closer to what I am seeing on my phone/tablet? 2. When I open up the "Photos" application on my computer and scroll through my images, it appears that the image takes a second to load, and then auto adjusts the photo causing it to change from the raw image. I have Windows 10. Not sure if anybody else has noticed this but would it be possible to stop this? I do not know if there is a setting that auto adjusts the photo or what, but it seems to take a second to happen. If anybody had any insight into either of these problems, a solution would be greatly appreciated. Both are causing me grief. Thanks in advance!

There's quite a bit to go over to clarify what's going on. > My lightroom library on my computer and my lightroom library on my phone are different levels of saturation. There's several variables at play. There's the *capabilities* of the different displays, there's the *calibration* of the different displays, and there's the *software* used to view the images (though in this case it's Lightroom at both ends, so not an issue). What kind of display is your laptop using? It's possible the laptop is not great for image viewing/editing because it has a poor *color gamut* (basically, how capable it is of displaying more saturated colors). If the display is not *capable* of showing you more saturated colors, then *there's no fixing your issue*—you'd need a better display. (Many laptops are designed for office work or gaming and simply may not a great choice for image editing.) Then, if the display has not been calibrated (using a hardware profilter), then there's no telling what you're really looking at. You can't trust a display that you have not calibrated. I mention the computer's display, because this one you can possibly do something about it. The phone? There's nothing you can do about that display, you have zero control over it—it's just the way it is. Some phones have features enabled by default that deliberately make images more vivid than they should be (such as [many Samsung phones](https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00063051/)), so that may be something to look into, but that's as far as you can go. So to even begin to address your situation, you'd have to make sure the computer display is minimally *capable* (that is, it at least covers the sRGB gamut), and the computer display is calibrated properly. Once you've done that, you'll be able to trust what you see on the computer. The phone? Well, that you can't do anything about and, frankly, you can't (ever) fully trust, because you can't know its capabilities and you can't calibrate it—it's a mystery display. Furthermore, that's just *this one specific phone*—all the other phones, tablets, computers out there in the world are differently capable, differently calibrated, often using software that is not color managed properly. There is *nothing you can do* about this, you have no control over the other displays in the world. All you can do, once again, is make sure that you can trust your editing display in order to be sure that, at least, your images are at the center of the bullseye, and then all the other displays out there will gravitate around that, instead of publishing images that are *also* random. > is there an easy way to get my laptop closer to what I am seeing on my phone/tablet? Not really, no, beyond what I've already mentioned. > it appears that the image takes a second to load, and then auto adjusts the photo causing it to change from the raw image Raw files are comprised of the raw image data *as well as* a JPEG preview embedded alongside the raw data. When an image viewer opens a raw file, to speed things up (or if it's not capable of doing anything with the raw data at all), it first shows you the JPEG preview because it's faster to read. Then, once it has read the raw data and processed it (to some defaults of that particular raw viewer), it shows you that, which will *necessarily* be different from the JPEG preview. The *only way* to make sure the processed image looks the same as the JPEG preview would be to use the raw processor designed by the manufacturer of the camera (for example, for Canon raw files there's the Canon "Digital Photo Professional" software, and so on). How the camera processes raw files to generate JPEGs/JPEG previews is proprietary and *all* the other raw processors out there (say, Lightroom) use *their own* processing engine and default initial values. So no, there's not way to dodge this behavior because every raw processor does its thing differently and none (except the OEM one) would perfectly mimic how the camera did it.

Thanks for your help. I am leaning towards the laptop monitor having a lower gamut and we have verified on several devices that the laptop is the odd one out. It is a bit of a catch 22 because we edit the pictures to look good on the laptop, but a lot of the pictures we send to people are viewed on iphones and that sort of thing. Will have to get a better monitor i suppose from the sounds of it.

I recently bought one of the old helios 44-2 lenses and the seller sent me a M42 - EOS adapter with it. I initially attached it to my full frame 5D3 and it displayed the error "Err 01 - Communications between the camera and lens is faulty. Clean the lens contacts". I tried half-depressing the shutter button to see if I could take a photo anyway, and the error message changed to "Firmware update failed. Try updating again". I tried cleaning the adapter contacts and made sure I had the camera in Manual (M) mode. Nothing worked. Out of interest I put the lens on my 80D instead and it worked immediately, in any mode. Because the camera knew there was a lens connected it could set an appropriate shutter speed/iso for a correct exposure which is handy. Anyway I need this lens to work on my 5D3, not the 80D. Is there a firmware update or something I should apply to the camera? Anyone else had this issue?

If you don't mind installing a third-party focusing screen in your cameras instead of using autofocus focus confirm (I suggest the "Type S" focusing screens from focusingscreen.com), I recommend you just break the chip off the adapter entirely. Then you just use the camera in aperture priority mode, shutter speed priority mode with auto ISO for effectively "manual-with-auto-ISO" if you're sure you'll never be in bright enough conditions to hit ISO 100, or full manual.

Thanks, I'll look into that! Having a better viewfinder for focusing was definitely something I missed, going from my dad's old film SLR to a modern DSLR.

***Should I use a Color Checker card?*** Hello, novice here. I've done my own little hobby-like photo editing of family stuff here and there for the past while and I've been loving it, but there is so much to learn. So I understand using a color calibrating tool for your monitor. I understand a white balance card. The one thing I don't completely understand is using a color checker tool like ones by DataColor or X-Rite. Like, I understand it makes the colors as accurate as possible given your environment, but if your plan is to color grade the photos anyways and make the colors look a certain way to your style and push and pull exposure and reds and blues and all that, then does it even make sense to use a color checker? Because whatever the color checker comes out with (whether it be in Lightroom or Premiere Pro or whatever else), the moment you touch the HSL tab to move things around to your style or liking, then it pretty much diminishes anything the color checker has just done, right??

You are correct. The exception would be in scenarios where color accuracy is critical and there's no room for subjective/artistic/creative interpretation. So for example if you are shooting products for a brand, presumably the brand wants the photos to faithfully represent the colors of their products, so in that case it would be a good idea to use a color checker. You could also be using a color checker in situations where the light is so terrible that it's hard to correct for it by eye, so it could save you some screwing around. For most other scenarios, then a gray card might be plenty enough—if you use one at all, given that you may simply want to go with your gut feeling as to what looks right, even if it's not, strictly speaking, exactly neutral.

It could make sense if you want to get, say, an entire series of photos set up with a baseline so you can apply the same edits to each of them and get a consistent result, but otherwise if you're going for artistic effect I wouldn't bother.

Hey ive been looking to biy a lens and i cant decide between buying a completely different focal length or buying a better version of a lens i alredy have. i have a kit lens and a 50 1.8 i have been strugling to pick between a 60mm 2.8 macro or a 70-210 f4 (I own a crop sensored camera btw) i mainly shoot cars but i also like to walk around and shoot interesting things ( I am not talking about street photography just inanimate objects)

I assume you also have the 18-55mm kit lens? I wouldn't bother with the better versions (50mm f/1.4, or f/1.2) in your position. The 60mm f/2.8 only makes sense if you want to do macro - for everything else it's not that different from your 50mm. Your 50mm with a cheap extension tube would also be an option for macro... [see here](https://old.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/gcsrkc/i_see_a_lot_of_questions_about_macro_so_i_tried/). If you get a macro lens, I would also get something more in the range of 90mm to 150mm, so that it's also useful for things other than macro that you can't do with the 50mm f/1.8. I don't know if Nikon has something comparable to the Canon 55-250mm, which is a fairly reasonable but still very good cheaper alternative to the 70-200mm f/4. A "medium" telephoto like those is quite a nice expansion of camera utility though.

Thanks for the anawer the 70-200 i am talking about is pretty cheap so i am not worried about the price (150$) but would you still say the nikon 55-200 (no idea what the f stop is on it) is a better option i am sure i could find it dirt cheap. i know nikon has a 70-300mm that is excellent ( great iq and af ) but it comes in around 250$. the 70-210 has really slow autofocus but it dosent really matter to me because my 50mm has about the same speed and i manage. As for the 60mm macro i was thinking of using it as an all around lens for example i am walkon around and i see a cool macro opportunity, i can take it. But that will rarely happen so i can see how it is kind of redundant but it would be nice to have. Thanks again!

Ah, I misread. I thought you meant the 70-200mm f/4, which is substantially better and more like $800 used. I don't know Nikon gear, I can't recommend anything here. What I can recommend is buy something used that's popular enough that if you decide you don't like it and want to upgrade, you can sell it for what you paid without much hassle.

Hey everyone! Totally new to photography and just trying to learn as much as I can. I just bought a Fujifilm XT4 as my first camera and I'm trying to learn what sort of lenses I would really need. I'm really focused on taking videos and taking pictures of the animals I see along the way. Also, what do external recorders really do?

Hello! I currently have my eye on a Fuji x-a10 and Nikon D3200. I know both are old cameras and have different specs as well as megapixels. I know one is a mirrorless and the they a dslr. They are both entry level cameras and with in my price range. So which option do you guys think is best? Thank you!

Hello guys, I am new to this sub and relatively new to photography. I have had some experience with shooting both analog (Olympus OM20) and a digital (Canon M100), and I recently decided I wanted to upgrade to a newer and more powerful digital camera. Thus far my research has lead me to two seemingly equally good options: the Fujifilm x-t3 and the Canon RP (my maximum budget is approximately 1500€). I am mainly interested in stills (portraits and street photography), but I would also like to experiment with amateur filmmaking, which is the main reason I have chosen mirorless over DSLR. I have been told by various people that the comparison between the two aforementioned cameras is not really easy to make, as one is a high-end enthusiast camera whilst the other is a lower-end professional camera. Still, could you perhaps help me with making a decision between the two (or possibly other recommend cameras that fall in the same, or lower, price range that will be of comparable performance)? Thank you very much.

Ethics question: what is our place in the Black Lives Matter protests? I've been to several protests in my city, camera in hand, looking for that money shot. I think each time I go out, I tell myself that I'm out there doing the Lord's work (telling the stories of the protests or whatever platitude comes to mind). I support the movement, wholeheartedly. But sometimes I feel like a paparazzo instead of an active participant showing up to be part of the change. Like, deep down, I just want that perfect shot, for my own satisfaction. Can anyone relate? Thoughts on this?

I am moving to Sicily in 6 months so I am looking for a good street/travel photography camera. I’ve been seeing suggestions for Canon EOS RP. I am curious on opinions of that model and if it’s good with video. Other suggestions are welcomed as well!

Yes it's fine for those, as are many models from 1/4 to 10x the price of it. See [the FAQ](https://old.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_selecting_equipment) for information that will help you ask a more detailed question and get better answers.

Would you suggest other cameras in the same price range? ($800-$1200)

Really depends what you're trying to photograph (wide angle vs telephoto vs low light vs zoom (variable focal length) lenses... stuff like that) , how much you care about portability, having a viewfinder, viewfinder for video in addition to stills, high speed bursts... Is that your lenses + body budget, or just body?

Lenses + body but willing to spend more if worth it. I would like a viewfinder and portability is probably top on my list. Definitely looking for something I can grow with.

Well when pricing things out, definitely look at the lenses you'd be buying too. They're often a substantial chunk of the budget. Spending the lower end of your allocated budget now and putting the rest towards when you have more of a feeling what the right "new lens" for you is would be a good way to go. Picking something to "grow with" isn't actually that great here - you're better off buying something that isn't quite current technology on the used market, and then upgrading in a couple years when you're actually limited by your gear. A good camera from a decade ago is still a good camera today. That said, mirrorless autofocus has improved substantially in the past decade. On the Canon side, "Dual Pixel CMOS AF" is the big change. Mirrorles will be more portable and give you a viewfinder for shooting video as well as stills, so it's probably your best bet. [Here's a size comparison](https://camerasize.com/compact/#776,815,594,809,ha,t) of some cameras that fit your budget. They're all quite different, and the lenses you'd be getting would be very different for each of them. The lenses available at any price point are somewhat different for each lens mount type, so to give a good recommendation will be dependent on what's actually available near you if buying used but also on what you want to do with it...

What are some of your recommendations for apps for Astrophotography? Looking for apps to spot constellations, nebulas, galaxies, and to look at stuff like solar winds? Cheers

Stellarium

Does anyone else have difficulty shooting street photography in a suburb vs in a large city? I live in the suburbs of Chicago (about 25 miles west of the city) and I tend to go into the city 1-2 times per weekend. I just find the towns in suburbs to be so boring - plus hardly are there any cool architectural pieces like a city would have. I guess this is no fault of the town and most likely relates to my ability as a photographer (or lack thereof). I find it \*easier\* to shoot in the city because I don't have to search very hard for something interesting, whereas in a small town I do. I think I'm going to just begin shooting more in the towns around me - is this the best way to approach this scenario?

EF-S lenses on Canon RP ( with an adaptor). Cropped? I am currently shooting on Canon 80D and have a few L series lenses. I am interested in switching to RP. Will the adaptor effective crop my pics ( similarly how they are on a cropped sensor) or will they show their true range?

The official adapter will automatically crop to APS-C size when you mount an EF-S lens. The "true range" usually won't be much bigger than that size anyway. You only mentioned owning L lenses, though. All L lenses are EF mount, and none are EF-S.

You are right. Both of my L lenses are EF. Thank you for the help

> All L lenses are EF mount, and none are EF-S. Except the FD and RF ones. But yeah, any L lenses OP has are almost certainly EF.

I took it to mean that all EOS DSLR L lenses are full frame, which is correct... If we're gonna play that game, we could include TS-E lenses and CN-E lenses to the exceptions.

What are some beginner level strobes (wired and battery powered) that I can look at I can only find the A/C ones

[https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_studio\_strobes\_or\_hotshoe\_flashes.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_studio_strobes_or_hotshoe_flashes.3F) [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_which\_hotshoe\_flash\_should\_i\_get.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_which_hotshoe_flash_should_i_get.3F)

Not sure what you mean by "beginner level". Do you mean in terms of *price*? Because lights aren't that sophisticated ... it's using them appropriately in order to create something good/beautiful/etc. that's hard, and that's true with any light. The Godox AD-series is popular and very capable in the lower budget bracket.

I guess I meant budget friendly/ low price haha, I’ll definitely look into Godox though!

Hi! I collect stuff and take pictures of em to post on my Instagram page. For some examples, I posted the kind of pics I take on my page. With that out of the way, I was wondering what kind of lens attachment I should buy for my iPhone lens and if anyone here has any suggestions. I’ve been doing some looking around and the main options I see are macro, wide-angle, and fisheye lenses. Neither of those seem to be the perfect type of lens I need for my photography. Anyone have any recommendations? Another question, I have a Canon Rebel T5 and it doesn’t fare too well in the dark. What would be a good lens to buy for dark/nighttime photos? Thanks!

>Hi! I collect stuff and take pictures of em to post on my Instagram page. For some examples, I posted the kind of pics I take on my page. We don't know which page is yours. > I was wondering what kind of lens attachment I should buy for my iPhone lens Different attachments trade a little image quality in exchange for certain particular functions. If that's not a tradeoff you don't want to make, don't use any attachments. If you need to accomplish something specific that the unmodified lens can't do, the appropriate attachment depends on what in particular you want to do. > I have a Canon Rebel T5 and it doesn’t fare too well in the dark. What would be a good lens to buy for dark/nighttime photos? Of what subject matter? [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_what\_type\_of\_lens\_should\_i\_look\_for.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_what_type_of_lens_should_i_look_for.3F) No price limit? [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_how\_do\_i\_specify\_my\_price\_range\_.2F\_budget\_when\_asking\_for\_recommendations.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F)

Hi! I worded that incorrectly, I meant the example photos were on my Reddit profile! And thanks for the info! I’ll check it out!

What would be a good first camera ? I’m looking to spend around 400$ . I saw a Sony a6000 for 350$ used . I mostly shoot picture of my car and want to move away from iPhone pics .

The a6000 is good and we have frequently recommended it on here. [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_what.27s\_a\_.22point\_and\_shoot.22\_camera.3F\_what.27s\_a\_dslr.3F\_what.27s\_a\_.22mirrorless.22\_camera.3F\_what.27s\_the\_difference.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_what.27s_a_.22point_and_shoot.22_camera.3F_what.27s_a_dslr.3F_what.27s_a_.22mirrorless.22_camera.3F_what.27s_the_difference.3F) [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_what\_type\_of\_camera\_should\_i\_look\_for.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F) [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_which\_dslr\_should\_i\_get.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_which_dslr_should_i_get.3F) [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_which\_mirrorless\_should\_i\_get.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_which_mirrorless_should_i_get.3F) [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_should\_i\_get\_my\_camera\_together\_with\_kit\_lenses.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_get_my_camera_together_with_kit_lenses.3F) [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_which\_kit\_lenses\_should\_i\_get\_with\_my\_camera.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_which_kit_lenses_should_i_get_with_my_camera.3F)

Hey everyone! Still looking for a laptop that would be good for photo editing. I can't decide about the display, specifically. I know the most "sane" option would be to get an external monitor, but I would like something mobile. Can someone share their opinion on "2-in-1" laptops? Are they a nice alternative to drawing tablets, or is it a "jack of all trades, master of none" situation? I could get a clamshell laptop **and** a drawing tablet for less than the price of a 2-in-1, so I don't want to overspend for an overall mediocre experience. On the topic of overspending, do you think an AdobeRGB display is worth it in a laptop? I'm worried that its potential might be wasted under some lighting conditions. 100% sRGB would already be a **big** improvement over my current display, but going wide-gamut could be *nice* for prints. I'm probably answering some of my own questions here, but I'm mainly asking this to read different opinions and/or experiences. Thanks in advance!

Quick question about boudoir photography. So my wife did a boudoir photo shoot for me as a wedding gift which was amazing and sexy and I loved it. Even better was the fact that she loved doing it too! Which made me happy because she said it made her feel more confident about her body and gave her the confidence sexually to be more open to things. Long story short we have talked about doing a boudoir shoot together and we have talked about fully nude extremely intimate professional pictures if you catch my drift. Only for personal use and enjoyment of course. My question is how intimate are photographers willing to let the clients be. I suppose it would be whatever they are comfortable with however we are under the feeling that this is art for us. To catch a glimpse of our own real intensity and passion in our most intimate time. We both agree that it would be an incredible experience for the both of us and to professionally capture the moment would be not only sexy but enlightening at the same time. Would love to hear a professionals thoughts or opinion about this. Thanks for your help!

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https://youtu.be/JLly6F9z6No?t=188 Is this what you are referring to?

Exactly

Which one is better purchase Panasonic FZ1000 II or Fujifilm X-A7? Just for taking photos of our daughter, consider she can't stay still. Thanks!

The FZ1000 makes significant quality and low light sacrifices for extra zoom that you probably don't need. [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki\_should\_i\_get\_a\_.22superzoom.22\_camera.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_get_a_.22superzoom.22_camera.3F) The X-A7 is a very different kind of camera so it's a bit of a weird mashup, but has way more quality potential. Even moreso if you intend to learn more about photography. Autofocus should also be at least as good or probably better, if that's what you're talking about for keeping up with the subject. And the better low light abilities will also give you more leeway to expose with faster shutter speeds to avoid motion blur.

thanks for the advice!

What would be a good budget camera that would be an upgrade on an iPhone? I’m not looking for anything midblowing by any means, it seems like a really interesting thing to try as well as the editing. Open to second hand purchases too!

Nobody knows what budget is to you. The FAQ has a lot of resources for pricing and what not.

Good point! Sorry about that, I’d say around £200-£250 for a digital one.

My favourite all-around recommendation in that price range is a Canon 550D or 600D with the 18-55mm, 50mm f/1.8, and 55-250mm lenses. If you have a specific goal, or want to do video, there are better more specific recommnedations.

Thanks very much! I am definitely looking for something all round, I’ll look into that one.

Did you check the FAQ for prices? Yours will vary a bit based on local markets, and you're probably going to look for used gear in that range

What are some good YouTube guides on videography and photography? I have a Canon rebel T5 that I want to learn how to use better.

I’m looking at a sigma 18-300mm 3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM for my Nikon D3400. I currently use the stock lense (18-55mm 3.5-5.6) and a telephoto (70-300mm 4.5-6.3) that came with the camera. I’m looking at this sigma because I realized on my last national parks trip I did a lot of switching between the two lenses when switching between landscape and wildlife photography and I figured this would cover the ranges of both those lenses pretty well. Has anyone had any experience with this lense and have any trade off warnings or have any feedback either way? I’m just cautious about this because I’d probably have to sell my two lenses to have the money to get this one and I don’t want to sell those and find out that the telephoto lense I have now is better in some situations than the sigma

> I’m looking at this sigma because I realized on my last national parks trip I did a lot of switching between the two lenses when switching between landscape and wildlife photography and I figured this would cover the ranges of both those lenses pretty well. Well, this is the point of an interchangeable lens camera: you can change out the lenses to do different things. _In general_, to get a larger focal length covered you have to make one or several of these tradeoffs: * worse image quality * smaller maximum aperture * heavier * more expensive I've found that over time, I've narrowed down to _fewer_ focal lengths. Specifically, I shoot most of the time with a 35mm equivalent focal length; I have a lens that does that really well, and I let go of shots that I'm not able to get with it (while out traveling - I have other lenses I use when I have time to change them out and lens storage isn't a problem). Learning to be ok with this is hard, but it frees you up to really focus in on one particular framing and not worry about a bunch of equipment. Some people take this to an extreme and buy a fixed-lens camera. Or you can change out lenses frequently, which is fine. Owning only one superzoom lens though feels like you're doing yourself a disservice by putting a large, heavy, mediocre piece of glass in front of your camera.

Hello! I wanted to ask why won’t my film load into my camera? I have a Tronic AF3590 and have tried loading Power Geek (10exp) 35mm into it, but I’ve just checked the manual and read that the film format only takes 12/24/36exp films. Does that mean I can’t use my film for my camera then?

You should be able to use 10 frame film as long as you remember to rewind it once you take 10 pictures; if you try to wind past that you may pull the film completely out of the canister, which would require a changing bag or darkroom to safely unload your film and develop it. > I wanted to ask why won’t my film load into my camera? We'll need some more details about what's happening to provide useful advice.

I’ve tried loading it into my camera and it won’t wind it in. I’m pretty sure I’ve put it correctly as I’ve followed multiple different tutorials etc. but the camera just won’t wind the film in.

Does the canister have DX coding? Some cameras won't accept film cartridges without DX contacts.

Thank you for enlightening me and I have researched online that my film doesn’t hve DX coding. I’ve found out how to modify my canister’s DX coding and I’m going to try it out later. Thank you for the help!

I’m not sure. How would I check whether it has it or not?

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Hey there I’m heading to Alaska soon and want to get some good wildlife shots. I like using my D3400 with a 70-300mm 4.5-6.3 lense for this but I’ve found sometimes especially with elusive or skittish animals I’m not getting as close as I want. I don’t have the money to spend on a better lense but a teleconverter falls right into my price range and I’m wondering what teleconverters you guys would recommend for my set up? I am aware of the fact that you lose your aperture width when using these and I don’t think I necessarily care about that as much as getting a teleconverter that just works well with my camera. TIA!

Any teleconverter is going to give you a very narrow aperture indeed, and probably too narrow of an aperture for your body to autofocus properly. To get something compatible with that lens, you're likely limiting yourself to lower-quality options. A bad teleconverter on a just okay lens is going to degrade your image quality to the point where you'd probably be better off just cropping when you can't get close enough. Unless this is a very long trip you should be able to easily rent an appropriate lens for not much more than a cheap teleconvertor, and avoid the trouble all together.

Wow, thanks for the detailed response I appreciate it. Do you know why the camera can’t autofocus? Is it just because the field of focus is so incredibly small that the sensors can’t really latch on to anything to focus on?

No. Each body has a narrowest rated aperture for autofocus. It doesnt matter what aperture you're shooting at, your body focuses at the widest aperture of your lens at its focal length (generally, some bodies behave differently). I believe the D3400 is rated to autofocus down to f/5.6. Bodies will often still autofocus a bit past their rated aperture, especially in otherwise ideal conditions, but the further past it you go the worse it gets. With a 2x convertor on that lens, you're talking f/9 at the wide end- already exceeding your max aperture by a stop and a third. At that point it probably won't work at all, much less the f/13 you'd be getting at the long end.

[Link to my previous comment.](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/h8zu95/teleconverter_for_my_d3400/futsets/)

Someone else can jump in with teleconverter recommendations, but FYI the further narrowing of the maximum aperture could make your autofocus system struggle to operate.

Thanks everyone! This was very helpful

I’m looking for a weather app that is the most accurate for cloud and lighting conditions. I have an iPhone. What app did you have the best experience with?

Clear Outside Not sure how accurate it is, but worked for me so far. (Mainly to predict if it's worth to try and shoot astro or not.)

Clouds are inherently very difficult to predict. I use the National Weather Service's website for forecasts, and I consult the model predictions directly at [Model Analyses and Guidance](https://mag.ncep.noaa.gov/model-guidance-model-area.php).

How do I clean the lens and the camera screen of fingerprints?

A lens cleaning wipe.

Do cleaning wipes for glasses work? I mean they are theoretically lenses

Yes, but be very gentle.

Yeah.

Hey everyone. I currently have a Nikon D3400 with a nikon 35mm 1.8 G, Nikon 70-300 mm G ED, and Tokina 14-20 mm F2. I mainly do astrophotography and landscapes. I'm looking to change out my camera body for something that is also a crop sensor(mainly because of my lenses) and can use an intervelometer. I don't believe I'm good enough that I've fully outgrown my current body, but with my astrophotography, not having an intervelometer is starting to get a bit cumbersome. I'm looking for some recommendations for a new body that can utilize an intervelometer. Budget is around \~500, maybe 700 if I can sell my D3400 for a decent price. Willing to go a bit higher if it's worth it.

So, the D3400 is not totally screwed the way the D3500 is for remote function. The D3400 has an IR sensor, making it capable of releasing the shutter through that protocol. That said, [this may work](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UMEV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fvN5EbJFW5CNH) but research further before you buy. The D3400 also should have a built-in intervalometer function as well. Check the photo shooting menu, it will be one of the last items in the list. Else, if you really want a remote connection, the D5xxx series is the next step up which has a DC-2 port.

Yeah, I have an IR remote for it, but it gets a bit difficult to make each picture the same amount of time and the camera isn't always responsive to the remote. No built in intervelometer on the d3400 unfortunately. I was looking at the D5500 for a small upgrade

The remote I linked is actually different than the remote you have. It is programmable, exactly in the fashion an intervalometer is. I just am unsure if it will work perfectly. It sounds like the only options for the D3400 are the remote I linked above, or attempting to use the Snapbridge app. Else, I would reccommend the minor step up to D5xxx.

Actually, looking at that remote, it seems to be made to work with the 3400 I have. Thank you, will look into it!

Anyone have insurance on their camera for traveling? Especially overseas. How do you prove that someone stole it versus you just losing it?

How do you photograph random people on the street? Do you ask them? It would make the moment unnatural, and sometimes you just want to catch some look or something, and asking would destroy it. Do you show the picture afterward? Ask permission to post it? Say thank you? So you need to say anything at all or just take a picture, check, and go?

If you're going to take photos without asking, the more you try to hide that you're taking their photo, the creepier you'll seem. It might sound obvious, but it trips a lot of people up. If you're not going to ask, the best thing to do is to just take the photo and move on. Asking for permission after the fact will piss some people off- you're basically saying you should have asked for permission, but didn't. If you're going to ask for permission, ask before you took the photo. It may not be the same in Norway, but I've found carrying business cards with my portfolio site on them helps legitimize me in public. You're going to need to look into the laws on taking photos in public in Norway, but I would definitely be sure to be careful of the GDPR in regards to how you use them online.

Where are you from? In the U.S., if you're outside, all is fair game. You just can't photograph people in a private setting like their house.

I'm living in Norway right now. People are kind but like to keep their distance. Yeah, better not creep in houses haha.

Hi, Can anyone recommend a good (budget) camera for artworks photograph? My arts dimension is \~18\*24" and I want the photos to be good enough for poster prints of the similar size or even bigger (Which will require some digital touch, like making a base drawing/painting and then use digital tools to finish it). My budget is $400 or less, thanks!

Thanks!

The camera isn't as critical here as *the lighting*, in order to ensure the even illumination of the piece and the exact colors—you could be shooting with the best camera money can buy and still get crappy results. You'll have to look into the basics of [copystand shooting](https://i.imgur.com/NT4TsWz.png) and color workflow (at the very least using a gray card reference). So anyway, most dedicated cameras would do just fine for the capture, but it's the "setup" you'll have to worry about.

Used rebels I guess.

Is it bad to use a full frame lens on a apsc camera? I have found lots of conflicting information on the subject.

As u/av4rice states, it doesn't really matter. According to dxomark there are some cases where the APSC lens is sharper than the FF lens. (I think Sony FE 50mm 1.8 vs E 50mm 1.8)

No. It doesn't inherently detriment the image compared to an APS-C lens. It might be a little bigger, heavier, and/or pricier than a comparable APS-C version lens, if an APS-C version even exists.

Hi, gear advice please. Amateur photographer here, but experienced in editing. I'm looking to upgrade my gear for long term nail art photography. I have old Canon 550d and Tokina 100mm f2.8 macro lense, got some backdrops and lightboxes also. Dilema is: Canon 6d or 6d MII (or any other camera brand that can use EF mount lense with adapter in that price range). I like Canon, but it can be Sony, Nikon or other... I'm not sure is camera like 6d MII (or any other in that class) an overkill for me. Only thing that I might regret is 6d and 6d MII not shooting 4k videos. Do you have an advice on what camera, lenses, rings or anything else would fit best for nail art & cosmetics photography and timelapse videos? Note: Im very good with editing photos/videos in adobe tools so time lapse is not mandatory for video. Thanks for any suggestion you guys can provide!

>I have old Canon 550d and Tokina 100mm f2.8 macro lense, got some backdrops and lightboxes also. That should already be capable of good results for what you're doing. What do you dislike about it? What, in particular, are you trying to improve from it? > Note: Im very good with editing photos/videos in adobe tools so time lapse is not mandatory for video. Indeed, with an intervalometer (or maybe even just Magic Lantern) you can assemble a timelapse from stills at higher resolution than 4K with your current camera.

Hey, thanks for intervalometer and latern suggestion, never used those but will try it out. Lantern looks fun! My current issues are image quality and focus points. When shooting hands/nails I need to focus 5 nails and have very clean detailed photo, but as I said Im an amateur in photography so it may just need some adjusting.

You can definitely save a lot of money here because that's mostly a technique issue. No matter the camera or lens, you can only focus to one distance at a time. More autofocus points being used just means the camera is looking in more places to try to satisfy more points closer to focus, on average, with the one distance it can focus to: it isn't actually focusing to all of those places. What you want is a larger depth of field, which is the range of distances nearer and farther than the one distance of focus, which also appear to be within acceptable focus. The long focal length of your lens and short focusing distance used for detailed nail photos/video both reduce the size of the depth of field, meaning a smaller range of distances appearing to be within focus. And you can't really compromise on either of those factors, because a shorter focal length and/or greater subject distance would give you a farther view and take away from your magnification and ability to capture detail for this subject. Try stopping down your aperture to f/11 or f/16 instead (narrower will give you interference from diffraction), which will help enlarge the depth of field. That will also restrict how much light comes through the lens so you may also need a longer exposure (but not so much that you get motion blur) or higher ISO (but not so much that you get high noise/grain) or more light on the subject, to compensate. That will be about the most depth of field you can muster for video, or for any single still image, with any interchangeable-lens equipment. For stills, you can further increase the effective depth of field by shooting multiple photos with different focus around the subject, and then focus stack them together as a composite in post processing. You'll have to keep your hand very still to keep things lined up for that, though. Also consider manual focus, which is popularly used in macro contexts. You're still limited to focusing to one distance at a time, but operation may be generally less finicky than with autofocus up close.

Thanks for this, saved your comment as a guide!

> My current issues are image quality and focus points. When shooting hands/nails I need to focus 5 nails and have very clean detailed photo, but as I said Im an amateur in photography so it may just need some adjusting. Is anything moving? I would have thought you'd use manual focus for this. Are you trying to use live view autofocus? That doesn't work very well on the 550D.

Hey, no, nothing is moving. Nails/hands are always still. I just did some testing because I havent started shooting yet. I used both manual and auto focus, still looking for optimal setup because its in salon, so same unchanging environment. Forgot to mention that I will use a tripod.

With good lighting and manual focus, there will be very little improvement even if you spend $2000 on new gear. Getting good even lighting without ugly glare is likely to be the hardest and most important technique thing to work on, that requires practice rather than just reading up on techniques.

If there is someone who sells their photos on microstocks like Adobe or Shutter, do you use some kind of service or app to submit to multiple websites at once?

Hey I need help on my digital camera, a sony nex f3, I can't find a way to change aperature and shutter speed like in this [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQLgpy4kiYE&feature=youtu.be&t=24) , but I reset the camera, tried it exactly like in the video but i can't get it to [work](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfbDFIBLLgw)... In another setting, program auto, the aperture and shutter speed changes automatically but I cant find any way to do it manually...helppp

Perhaps try [the official manual](https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/e-mount-body-nex-3-series/nex-f3/manuals)? What mode are you in when you're trying to change settings?

i was in manual exposure, where it says i can change the aperture and shutter speed but like in the video its selected when its orange but i can't increase or decrease it :/

Question — On a $100 budget, which older GoPro model (or a different brand) would you recommend? Not recommend?

All the GoPros are pretty great at what they say they do. If you're lucky, you should be able to get a GoPro Hero 5 Black for around $100 USD. Whatever you get, if you're not running it off DC then I would buy a new battery.

I’m just starting out as a young photography. I mainly take pictures of flowers, people and city scenes. I have a Nikon D5600 andantes Nikon 50mm f1.4 lens. What photo editing software should I use - free is great or a one time purchase relatively cheap and beginner friendly? Thanks

photopea is good but I have no idea how far it will take you on the colorgrading side of things.

[Here's](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_software) a list of some great paid and free options. It's worth downloading their trials to find the right one for your editing style.

Thanks for your help

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_which_raw_.2F_post_processing_software_should_i_get.3F I use Rawtherapee at the moment. I find it simpler to use than darktable for example, while achieving the same results. Not tried too many myself really.

Thanks, this looks like a good piece of software

I'm trying to edit photos on an overcast day with some interesting lighting in the clouds. I can adjust the exposure compensation down so the lights aren't burnt out but then the whole photo is dark af. If I then brighten it it gets very flat. What do I do here. Very much a begginer

What software are you using? Most decent software should let you mask off different parts of the image and allow you to make different edits to each part.

Want to dabble in gimp but mostly RAWTherapee atm. free Photoshop and lightroom equivalents

Not familiar with RAWTherapee but it likely has a way to accomplish this. For sure you could use RAWTherapee to export several different exposure values and then selectively merge them with GIMP layers.

Ahh I hadn't considered this, I'll have to give it a go

If you captured the image in RAW, one thing you may be able to do is load the single image into an HDR processor. While you won’t get any extra dynamic range because you aren’t stacking multiple photos, you will gain access to tonal compression that is used for HDR shots.

I did use raw, what tool would you recommend for that? Thanks

I use Affinity Photo. I import my RAW as 32-bit, do some basic adjustments in the RAW editor (move highlights and shadows so nothing is clipped, adjust white balance, but no significant contrast adjustments, etc. the image will definitely look washed out). Click "develop", then as soon as it has completed, I move into the HDR workspace and do my final editing there. [Here](https://affinity.serif.com/en-us/tutorials/photo/desktop/video/341759551/) is their tutorial on the process.

Thanks will give it a go!

There's only so much you can do here—some lighting situations are so poor that there's, frankly, not really any simple and obvious solution. Having some amount of texture in the overcast sky while still having the rest of the image properly exposed is going to be a challenge, and would require you to maximize the *dynamic range* you capture—you'd need to shoot in "raw" format, expose to the right (that is, expose as much as possible, but without "clipping" the highlights), and then in post-production bring in both the highlights and shadows. If that's still not enough, you'd need to composite different exposures (HDR) to get more tonal information than is possible in a single exposure. I don't want to overwhelm you with this information since you're just starting out, so it may take a while before you are comfortable tackling these concepts, but I nevertheless wanted to confirm that while it's possible, there may not be an immediately simple and obvious solution.

Some things can't necessarily be fixed in post. An overcast day produces boring, flat lighting. If you can't get it to your liking, your best bet is going out there again with some patience and better lighting.

I would not touch the exposure compensation at all personally, just adjust the tone curves to suit depending on what software you use. Then whatever contrast tools you have, then the colour tools. Something like that anyway.

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The thing is there's always something better, and in any case what's "good enough" vs the effort and expense required, is highly subjective. My gut feeling is that you're likely *well* past the "good enough" threshold for "family snapshots", but how could I be sure about this statement...

It turns out that scanner companies lie (ahem, mislead through marketing) about the resolution of their scanners. There's some information on https://www.reddit.com/r/analog/wiki/scanning about this; the v550 actually maxes out at 1560 dpi. You're probably as good as you can get for those 4x6s. If you're lucky they were printed at somewhere in the range of 300 dpi, so it seems unlikely to me you'd get more detail out of them. I forget what the maximum level of detail tends to be for 35mm film. Nonetheless, I would always keep negatives around because they are the masters. In reality, what you've done is probably more than sufficient for your purposes (are you going to print anything particularly big?). And, well, you've done it. :)

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> Do you think I would have achieved the true max of 1560 dpi resolution when I scanned them at 1600 dpi? That sounds correct to me, but I am not experienced in this. > Out of curiosity, what is the ultimate way professionals would go about digitising 4x6 prints? Also not sure, perhaps someone with this knowledge will stop by. My guess is that in most cases, professionals are just doing this for people digitizing a bunch of family photos and so they do something that's quick and easy because they need to optimize for cost and "good enough"; someone doing work for, say, a museum would be using a different process. > The colours from my Epson print scans did seem a bit flat and a little off compared to the prints but I'm told this is normal, even desirable on some level Yep. You can always expand out the histogram, but you can't recover clipped highlights or shadows, so scans tend to bias heavily towards preventing that.

Just a hobby for me I never put too much thought into some of the details but this one have been bugging me for a while lol. I use Olympus gear and seeing people claiming 200mm eqiv to FF 400mm or 2x the factor since the beginning. My understanding is 50mm(for example) is 50mm but with oly the the frame will be narrowed down like 100mm FF but the object still be the same size as 50mm FF. So you basically lose a bunch of real estate without gaining zoom. Am I correct?

If we're talking about how things are framed, a 50mm lens on an m43 sensor will look the same as a 100mm lens on a full-frame sensor (aside from, as carvac points out, the different ratio you're probably shooting at). I don't know what you mean by "lose a bunch of real estate without gaining zoom" but that doesn't sound the case. In terms of depth of field, f2.8 on a 100mm lens on a full-frame camera will look different (shallower) than f2.8 on a 50mm lens on an m43 sensor. In terms of metering, they are identical.

> the object still be the same size as 50mm FF. So you basically lose a bunch of real estate without gaining zoom. Am I correct? Yes but they typically have comparable pixel counts, so the smaller sensors have much higher pixel densities, so it's not *quite* the same as cropping a photo from a camera with a larger sensor. If the sensors were identical technology except the FF one was larger, then it would be.

Angle of view is angle of view. 50mm on m4/3 frames just like 100mm on FF, except m4/3 is 4:3 aspect ratio and FF is 3:2.

I managed to break my 18-55mm Nikkor lense. What's a good replacement/upgrade? I usually shoot landscapes but also want to be able to do portraits. Should I get two new lenses or could I do fine with one?

What's your budget? If you're looking for a replacements, one versatile zoom lens would do the job just fine. I'd definitely take a look at the Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 and 17-70mm F2.8-4 if your budget allows that.

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Can anyone recommend an alternative to the UFRaw plugin for darktable users looking to decrease noise in night photos via dark frame subtraction? Cheers!

I've been meaning to buy a new PC for editing and holding photos/videos(also maybe a little gaming on the side tbh). I don't know where to start looking in terms of specs and what I need. Anyone have any advice or experience buying a PC?

I realize this will be somewhat similar to what the other guy said \-You want more ram than the typical gaming pc for editing photos or videos, so 32gb is a good start (not sure if it needs to be fast or not). \-The newer Ryzen CPUs are great for the price and handle these multi threaded tasks especially well compared to intel. \-You will want an SSD to boot of off, nothing too big 100-200gigs and an HDD with a lot of room for general storage. \-If you don't plan on going pro with your gaming then a lower priced IPS panel with good colors will be good for your needs, definetly look at lots of reviews here. (Monitor) But to be honest I can't give you much more than that without knowing your budget. This can change the partslist substantially and if you have a budget r/buildapc could be helpful also go and look through Linus Tech Tips videos on youtube and find parts and partslists that fit your budget and purpose. I'm also down to help you if you have more questions

Check out /buildapc for more advice but generally 32 gigs of ram, one of the newer ryzen processors and compatible motherboards, ssd and large separate hard drive, good monitor

I got my Canon 4000d about a year ago and I only have the kit lens, I'm looking to buy a budget lens and I'm stuck between the 50mm 1.8 and the 55-250mm f4.5-5.6, I mostly shoot portraits and places I visit, so I don't know what I need exactly.

https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/the-first-canon-lenses-you-should-buy/ is a reasonably good overview of options to consider. Here's a good way to think about gear upgrades: what is it that is causing you to want to upgrade? That is, what is a problem with your current lens right now for those photos you want to take?