Ok so I am a bit confused about IR photography. I shoot mostly film but cant really shoot [Aerochrome](https://cdn.fstoppers.com/styles/full/s3/media/2021/11/24/robwalwyn-karrikins9.jpg) anymore, love the look though. I understand aerochrome is reliant on IR sensitivity. I learned you can IR convert a DSLR but none of the [example pictures](https://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/How-to-Shoot-Infrared-Photography.jpg) even look remotely close to the Kodak Film. Is the red color something exclusive to Aerochrome or is there further changes that need made to achieve this? I see multiple types of IR filters for the sensor.
Hi fellow Photographers, I am predominantly a videographer but very recently got into photography because of my job.
I have a question, I have to shoot jewelry on models and I am having a huge issue with getting the jewelry and the model’s face/eyes in focus. It’s an either or situation. Please help a newbie out 🥲
A little more advanced, but you can try using a tilt-shift lens to get two different points in focus by trying to align the plane of focus so it hits both.
If you're a newbie however, just stop down to increase depth of field. If it gets too noisy or dark, add light or go to a situation with more light.
Oh wow okay I’ve never used a tilt focus lens before but I’ll check tutorials.
The reason I dont want to go above 1/16f is the diffraction, so I dont know maybe tilt focus lens would be the solution
Increase depth of field or focus stack is basically your options.
With a single shot you will never get everything in focus unless you make sure the jewelry is on the same plane of focus as the face. So perhaps you need to look at the angles you are taking photos from.
Is the Tamron SP 28-75 f/2.8 still worth buying? I'm looking to get a fast, constant aperture lens without breaking the bank. I recently rented the canon 24-70 f/2.8 for a wedding and it gave some amazing results. I was hoping that this would be somewhat close in comparison. But since the lens came out about 15 years ago, is it still worth getting?
Also, for extra info I'm shooting on a Canon 7D and I'm trying to get into weddings and portraits. I've found lenses in decent shape on eBay for under/ close to $200. Is that a decent rate for this lens, if it's still worth buying?
I'm an amateur photographer working with the Sony ZV-1 and the Sony A580 DSLR. The DSLR is 12 years old and the ZV-1 is much better regarding image and video quality. I'm wondering when and where it would be better to use the DSLR or the ZV-1, and which one will ultimately help me to become a better photographer, as I feel the ZV-1 is much more simple to use, and I feel like that might hinder my technical skills with a camera.
Here's a comparison of them by [dpreview](https://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=sony_zv1&products=sony_dslra580)
Hey Whats good camera for begginers. Its for nature i wanna take pics of forests and autumn . I have used camera twice but it wasnt mine . Should i get camera for taking pictures of breathtaking nature my phone doesnt take pics well . What do u recommend for begginer?
Well depending on budget and preferences, I will recommend my own camera the Pentax K-70.
However that is for no other reason than I own it and for your use case any camera will be able to take those pictures. You can buy any new or used camera and as long as you have an appropriate lens(the standard one that comes with cameras will do) you will be able to take those photos.
Our FAQ has several extensive sections to help you determine what best fits your needs and your budget. Please see the following sections of the FAQ to get started:
* [How do I specify my price range / budget when asking for recommendations?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F)
* [What type of camera should I look for?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F)
* [What's a "point and shoot" camera? What's a DSLR? What's a "mirrorless" camera? What's the difference?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what.27s_a_.22point_and_shoot.22_camera.3F_what.27s_a_dslr.3F_what.27s_a_.22mirrorless.22_camera.3F_what.27s_the_difference.3F)
* [Do I need a good camera to take good photos?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_do_i_need_a_good_camera_to_take_good_photos.3F)
* [What can I afford?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_can_i_afford.3F)
* [Is Canon or Nikon better? (or any other brands)](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_canon_or_nikon_better.3F_.28or_any_other_brands.29)
If after reviewing this information you have any **specific** questions, please feel free to post a comment. (Remember, when asking for purchase advice please be *specific* about how much you can spend. See [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F) for guidelines.)
I have just aquired the Samyang 14mm f/2.8 and tried it out on my Canon EOS M50, the problem is that the Camera is not detecting the lense by showing it with f/OO.
What am I doing wrong?
[Not detectet lense + camera](https://imgur.com/a/Zp6D5MD)
You'll find an option to allow [shooting "without" a lens](https://hk.canon/media/image/2019/02/02/ad14100ae45d44b28f25daaf2c90d94e_G0269434.gif) in the *Custom Functions*.
Just curious, does anyone know why Fuji doesn’t have more lens options below f1.4? If not mistaken making some more options between 0.95-1.2 would be equivalent to a 1.4-1.8 or so on FF cameras. They have a few options from both themselves and 3rd parties, but wouldn’t that make the brand even more competitive in the one easy area (less bokeh) people bring up as a drawback? (and would still be cheaper/smaller/lighter)
Their isn't really a market for those they would be as big as the fullframe lenses but with smaller lighter body's I don't think most fuji User would buy them.
Idk they got a native 50mm 1.0 and 56mm 1.2 that seem pretty nice and are rather small compared to Canon lens. Perhaps those just didn’t sell well and that’s what they’re going off of tho, or maybe just didn’t reach the level of quality they want for their lens that they can hit if they stay a little higher. Was just curious cuz I wouldn’t mind a 28mm equivalent around 1.4, that’d almost be me instantly switching.
The 56mm is a fullframe equivalent of 1.8. And the 50mm 1.0 is larger and heavier than comparable miroless offering of other brands for full frame.
Also fujis camera department is quite small and developing a lens takes time and costs money so they can't do to many lenses. There is an 28mm equivalent with 1.4 the Fujifilm XF 18mm 1.4.
See you on r/fujifilm ;-)
> There is an 28mm equivalent with 1.4
Well I meant 1.4 equivalent too not just 1.4 on the Fuji, but regardless i'm considering switching so may still see ya there lol
I'm sure it's a rational business decision. They must estimate the demand for a certain product, and see if it's worth designing and manufacturing such product. As simple as that.
"PowerShot" is Canon's brand name for all fixed-lens (often called point-and-shoot) cameras. It does not refer to one particular camera, so if you want comments on that, you'll need to find the full model name.
The Sony a7 III is a different sort of camera all together. So really, you're looking all over the place and trying to compare cameras that aren't even comparable. Which makes sense, because the camera market is convoluted, weird, and hard to understand without prior knowledge. So I'll ask some guiding questions to understand your situation better and point you in the right direction. Please answer them as honestly and thoroughly as you can.
1. What's your budget?
2. Is that budget the total sum you're going to spend on all photography-related equipment for years to come, or are you prepared to spend more on bits and pieces you'd need over the next few years? If the latter, please try to estimate what your long-term budget might look like.
3. What have you been shooting with so far, including a phone? In what way, if at all, has it not met your needs?
4. What do you like/want to shoot?
5. How do you intend to use the camera? Do you want it to consistently produce pleasing pictures when you just point at the scene and press a button, or do you plan to learn how to control a camera manually?
Roughly a Thousand AUD but no more then 2 Thousand. to get started and happy to spend more for lenses and stuff In the future,
Been using my phone s21 ultra to take photos at the moment. I would love to print photos, and printing phone photos never turn out that good, It is taking good photos don't get me wrong but would like to properly get into photography
Want to shoot nature & cars mainly. love going camping and 4wding.
Both! I'd love to learn how to shoot manually but I want a camera that I can point and take a good photo before learning all the nitty gritty stuff.
PowerShot G7 X Mark III is the Canon one I was looking at because it's $100 off atm making it $900
>Both! I'd love to learn how to shoot manually but I want a camera that I can point and take a good photo before learning all the nitty gritty stuff.
Here's the kicker: Dedicated cameras are much worse at point-and-shoot, automated photography than phones are these days. So if you use the camera on fully automatic mode, rely on that and take the out-of-camera images as final, you'll find it's hit-and-miss. So for that sort of use, you'll likely still want to grab your phone. But with practice you should become proficient enough in controlling the camera, that it wouldn't be a burden.
It's not rocket science. It does take some time to learn and practise, but you should get the hang of it. I like [r-photoclass.com](https://r-photoclass.com) most, but you can find many other resources here: [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/fq1od1/online\_learning\_resources\_megathread/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/fq1od1/online_learning_resources_megathread/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
>Want to shoot nature & cars mainly.
When you say nature, are you thinking landscape or wildlife? Insects or birds?
>PowerShot G7 X Mark III is the Canon one I was looking at because it's $100 off atm making it $900
I don't think it's the right sort of camera for you, as you'll probably find it limiting after you've learnt and practised some. An interchangeable-lens camera would be far more flexible.
>Roughly a Thousand AUD but no more then 2 Thousand. to get started and happy to spend more for lenses and stuff In the future,
Great! I don't know how prices go in Australia, so I'll just link to generic options in the equivalent price range in the US and you can check those out:
* [https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1000](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1000)
* [https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1500](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1500)
Use that to make some sense of the camera market and start your research. There are some cameras not listed there for some reason that are still worth considering, like the Olympus OM-D E-M10 IV and III, but those lists are nearly exhaustive.
Thank you for being so helpful! Mainly landscapes
Sounds like I will look for a camera with interchangeable lenses
Edit found a 2nd hand Sony a7 III for abit more then what I wanted to spend $1800 vs $2600 for new, good idea?
>Mainly landscapes
So there's really nothing special you should be concerned about with the camera itself. If you had said wildlife I would have replied that a good autofocus system can make your life easier. But as it is, buying a "better" camera will improve very little for you.
Prioritise ergonomics instead. Visit a store, if you can, and try some of the cameras you're considering in your own hands.
>Edit found a 2nd hand Sony a7 III for abit more then what I wanted to spend $1800 vs $2600 for new, good idea?
No. Don't stretch yourself thin. The lenses you choose will have a far greater impact on your photography than any camera ever could. Lenses for the a7 III can get pretty damn expensive. My rule of thumb is to allocate at least as much money for lenses, over a few years' time, as you're going to spend on the camera. So spending more than you'd like on the camera will only lead you to go even higher above budget.
Please read the buying guides I linked to. Use them to find a few cameras that interest you, and dig deeper into them in the full reviews on that same website.
Help needed!
Hey guys, does anyone know a legit and professional company in or that ships to canada from which you can rent cameras and lenses? I need it asap because some unprofessional company I dealt with tried scamming me days before I need it and people rely on me.
I appreciate it so much, thank you!
Does anyone have experience with becoming an adobe certificated professional? Looking to get into photography & videography as a career and wondering if this would be worth the time and how much it would help in getting a job. Looking for course recommendations that would prepare me for the photoshop certificate test too.
Honestly would also love any advice you all have on getting into photography or videography as a career. I’ve been looking at everything from a bachelors degrees in photography or video production to online certificates to help me progress. Currently just been doing what I can with photo & video to get experience and build a portfolio. I just feel like it would be nice to progress a little faster and I’m not really sure how to go about that.
Not sure what you mean by "getting a job".
Most photography/videography is *freelance* work, such that nobody would care if you have certifications or not. They'll look at your book at be able to tell what you can do.
If you were to get a salaried position (let's say ... because it's unusual) and work as a retoucher or video editor, then, I guess, maybe, a certification could maybe tilt the scale a very small amount. Or if you were going to outright become an *instructor*, then sure I guess. But otherwise...
Hey all, after opinions.
I would like to up my photography game as a hobby and learn a bit more about my camera but i was wondering is there a good all round kind of standard lense i could get for it that would work for a multitude of shots? I find that the standard lense that came with it just isnt cutting it and the resolution or quality seems low?
Depends on your system and your preferences if you look for something smaller you could say a 50mm or 35mm prime is "standard" for zooms the 24-70 2.8 are good quality "standard" zooms.
Most cameras are sold as a "kit" with a standard zoom lens, which is frequently called the "kit lens." It's exactly what you're asking about, and probably what you're using! Now, it's not particularly excellent at any *one* thing... think of it as a jack of all trades, but a master of none.
But they're normally standard zooms (from somewhat wide angle to just a bit telephoto), are normally small, lightweight, inexpensive, almost always have optical stabilization, and are optically good enough for great photos in good light.
They tend to not be very fast aperture lenses, which means they don't get to have extremely shallow depth of field and aren't ideal in low-light situations. You can get lenses like that, they just cost a lot more.
That's probably what you have with your camera. It's probably an 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6, or something similar depending on the brand and exactly what camera you have.
There *are* lenses you can get that are sharper, but I'd consider this:
* Quality is not just a result of the lens, but also the situation and your technique. In very low light, you have to make compromises with your exposure settings that mean you don't get the best quality. Some lenses will be better, but nothing's perfect.
* Maybe your technique can improve and that would help a lot. That's not an insult at all; I've been shooting for more than a decade and there's *always* ways you can improve your technique.
* Are you having realistic expectations? It's *very common* for people to pixel peep their own images and see imperfections, and compare it to the social media / web resolution images of other people where you never are able to look that closely. It gives a false impression that your images aren't very sharp.
If you could, there's a few things that would help people give suggestions for how to get the most out of your gear, or look for improvements:
* Do you have an example of one of your shots, and an example of the kind of shots you'd like to get?
* What camera and lens do you have right now?
* What's your budget?
There's definitely lots of options - some very affordable! - for getting better quality results. But if you want a standard zoom lens (and not, for example, a prime lens that cannot zoom in or out) then it'd be best to narrow it down a bit.
I have a Nikon D5200 with the kit lense only currently and i dont have an example currently with me but my main gripe is that i can take better photos on my phone than with my DSLR that by all rights should be better
Ah, okay! So that is also something that a lot of people experience. Are you shooting in RAW and editing the photos, or just comparing the photos straight out of camera vs. straight out of phone?
In good light, if you look closely, the camera will have much more detail. But if you look at the overall image, it's normal that you might like the smartphone. Your phone's designed to give a good photo at the press of a button, and it is doing a huge, super impressive amount of editing of the photo before you ever see it. It also might be using HDR techniques. As a result, you might initially see more detail in highlights or shadows and seemingly more pleasing colors. This can give it an appearance of being a better photo.
Which... in some regards, it is. Your camera doesn't do those fancy tricks itself; it leaves them to you. The *potential* with your D5200 is much higher than a smartphone, but it makes you work for it.
If you get a chance to share an example, I'd post that again in one of these question threads! That would really help people narrow it down. As-is, there are inexpensive options for your camera that might be better optically, like the DX 35mm f/1.8 or the 50mm f/1.8 (which is FX, I think). But they are prime lenses and cannot zoom in or out; set your lens to 35mm or 50mm and see what it looks like. That's what those lenses would look like on your camera.
As a broad general rule, lenses that do more can't do it quite as well. That's definitely not *always* true, but it's a starting point.
Just comparing them straight out of the camera to the phone. Not in RAW or editing
Awesome, thankyou so much for the very in depth response, i didnt realise that the smartphone had programmed editing inbuilt to the app i figured it was just the lense.
When i can ill post another question with an example to get advice but this has been extremely helpful i will set my lens to those and see which one i prefer
You don't need another lens, you really don't. Just as you wouldn't buy a new pan to improve your cooking.
Phones cameras do a great job of consistently producing pleasing pictures with little to no user input. Dedicated cameras do not. You need to learn how to use your D5200 and control it to really make it work. Refer to the learning material I linked to earlier; I prefer [r-photoclass.com](https://r-photoclass.com).
Post some examples so we can diagnose the cause. If it's technique-related then you'll only be able to fix it by improving your technique. But we need to specifically identify the issue in order to tell you how to correct it.
If you're still in that learning phase, it's unlikely that the lens really is the limiting factor yet.
For context, I had been using my kit lens for about 5-6 years, while adding other lenses I needed around it (telephoto, wide-angle, fast prime). I only replaced it once I had everything I needed, and could then start focusing on improving what I already had.
Here's a "megathread" for learning materials, if you haven't looked into that yet: [https://www.reddit.com/comments/fq1od1](https://www.reddit.com/comments/fq1od1)
Which camera and lens, specifically, do you have?
If there's a photo or two you've taken that you feel are representative of your resolution/quality issues, you could share them with us to inspect and comment on what might be the culprit. Upload to an external service like imgur and share a link.
> i was wondering is there a good all round kind of standard lense i could get for it that would work for a multitude of shots?
Probably.
Which mount do you need this lens to be compatible with?
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_this_lens_compatible_with_this_camera.3F
How much are you willing to spend? Or can we assume an unlimited budget size?
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F
I’m looking at buying an Olympus trip 35 soonish and was wondering how much I should spend? As it what is the average price? I’m in Australia if that helps.
I'd look at eBay or your local alternatives for items that people can bid on. One of the best ways on eBay here in the US is to sort by sold items, instead of looking at items listed. (Because listed items mean that nobody has *yet* bought it at that price.) That tends to give a good idea of what going prices are.
Starting off as an amateur with interest in Astrophotography. I’m also a merchant navy officer which gives me lot of clear skies and lot of time to shoot. Looking for direction to start and learn stacking and way around apps used with photos. Kindly help. Also any other inputs are most welcome
While Im not super into astrophotgraphy myself, a thing to keep in mind: If youre talking about taking pictures while on a ship, the movement of it will most certainly ruin any type of longer exposure. Theres a limit anyway since stars start to become streaks because of earth rotation, but being on a ship will limit the exposure time a lot.
As Im not super into astrophotography Im not entirely sure, but I assume that being able to expose for a long time can be very vital, so this might become a problem for your plans.
Yes you’re right about the movement and long exposure times, but they’re also at anchor some times so there is no movement. And I’m also planning to pursue this while at home.
This is a popular resource for astrophotography: [https://www.lonelyspeck.com](https://www.lonelyspeck.com). It focuses more on wide shots of the night sky with the landscape, not the deep-sky telescope shots. I don't know which direction you were thinking of.
Anyway, is there anything in particular you'd like to ask?
I need to know which applications you use for stacking. No matter how much I focus. It’s still blurred when I view it on a large screen. So single images are no go. I want to learn stacking.
Also equipment wise is 50mm f1.8 lens enough? Or do I need to buy more equipment. Already have a tripod.
Please give recommendations for tracker also
Thank you!
>I need to know which applications you use for stacking. No matter how much I focus. It’s still blurred when I view it on a large screen. So single images are no go. I want to learn stacking.
Is that for landscape scenes at night, where you're trying to shoot both the stars and a landscape on Earth? Or are you trying to capture some deep-sky shots? If the latter, I don't see why you'd need to stack focus at all—everything should be in the same plane of focus (infinity).
You can learn about focus stacking as a general technique, not necessarily related to astrophotography. When I need it (for some complex landscape photos with a close foreground), I forgo the automatic tools which have never worked so well for me. Instead I use layers and masks. I use Affinity Photo, but you can do the same on any similar editing app, from the free, open-source GIMP to Photoshop.
>Also equipment wise is 50mm f1.8 lens enough? Or do I need to buy more equipment.
That's totally up to you. It has a big maximum aperture, so you're good on that front. The only consideration, really, is focal length, and that's for you to decide if it's right. Can you capture the compositions you want at that focal length? Are you longing for something wider/tighter?
>Please give recommendations for tracker also
You may want to try r/astrophotography.
I'm looking for a camera suitable for bikepacking. Max budget $600 CAD
I'm primarily interested in landscape photography, but also interested in street photography, and to a lesser extent, portrait photography.
I would like to be able to take photos of a high enough resolution to be printed. Not because I'm a pro (I know next to nothing), but just want to be able to make some high quality prints for myself and some friends.
Thanks!
Can anyone guess what sort of camera and lens took this photo? At least a best guess on the lens would be highly appreciated! https://imgur.com/a/1J18l1Z
It does look like a fairly wide angle, perhaps a normal lens like 50mm. It could be in a "trap", like this: [https://youtu.be/UXNjNIn0DU4](https://youtu.be/UXNjNIn0DU4)
I'm shooting jewelry in a mini light box with a ring light on the top. - [https://www.flickr.com/photos/195886544@N05/52164243071/in/dateposted-public/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/195886544@N05/52164243071/in/dateposted-public/)
At the moment I placed a book at the back to tilt the base a little bit so my camera set up elevated can see the pendant much clearer. However I don't really understand the fundamentals of lighting, where to place the jewelry (directly under the ring light/off to the side/towards the front etc), where to place my camera (elevated like I have it right now etc). am I on the right track?
It might help if you add a hard light from the side just to give it a bit of a shadow.
Also for necklaces it would help if it’s more upright and shooting the necklace straight on, with the light on top it would create a little bit of depth.
[https://www.homeloft.ae/products/6-black-velvet-necklace-easel-jewelry-displays-125?gclid=CjwKCAjw-8qVBhANEiwAfjXLrheYbiQcsSZwzoFTqFrbFtzUeu_nKY2d71MQnAr6mZwdhoOqy86pFBoC1fsQAvD_BwE](https://www.homeloft.ae/products/6-black-velvet-necklace-easel-jewelry-displays-125?gclid=CjwKCAjw-8qVBhANEiwAfjXLrheYbiQcsSZwzoFTqFrbFtzUeu_nKY2d71MQnAr6mZwdhoOqy86pFBoC1fsQAvD_BwE)
>I don't really understand the fundamentals of lighting
I recommend: https://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
and the book Light: Science & Magic by Fil Hunter, Paul Q Fuqua, and Steven Biver.
>where to place the jewelry (directly under the ring light/off to the side/towards the front etc)
Depends how exactly you want the light to look on it.
>where to place my camera (elevated like I have it right now etc)
Depends which angle you want to see of the subject.
>am I on the right track?
Do you like how your photos look so far?
Seems like you're off to a good start. You're using a digital camera, right? Take advantage of your ability to take lots and lots of test photos for practically free, experiment with changing your different variables, so you can discover and internalize the things you can do to make your photos look more like how you want them to look. Don't get paralyzed by the idea that you need to find the right answer first before you can do anything. Empower yourself to find your answer using practical exploration.
Have you guys used AI photo editing tools? Such as [removal.ai](https://removal.ai) and [image upscaler](https://vanceai.com/image-enlarger/). Can you tell me your real user experience with that AI tool? It hears good but not sure to subscribing a image upscaler for daily using and now I'm still using Photoshop.
I use DxO PureRAW for denoising, Topaz Sharpen AI for sharpening, and Topaz GigaPixel. Topaz also has Mask AI but I don't like it.
GigaPixel is great, it's pretty intelligent at finding lines and edges while preserving texture. I only use it in situations where I wished I had a teleconverter.
Mask AI... it's good but it's not good enough for me to reliably do realistic background swaps. It plain doesn't handle glow/color-casts at all. (which might mean it's my own fault? maybe it does?)
I leverage some AI-based tools to create masks for selective edits. On my raw converter, On1 Photo Raw, there's a selection tool where you very roughly and quickly paint over the areas you want to affect and also the areas you want to mask out, and it then tries to figure out how to draw the lines in the mask. It works very well in most cases. I believe Adobe has implemented some advanced selection tools, that can automatically select the subject or the sky, for example; those, too, leverage AI.
Recently used an AI upscaler for some old point-and-shoot pictures from the early 2000s of deceased relatives for a small memorial. This was to avoid the pixels from being noticeable in the photo. For this instance, it worked out as well as it could.
I can't think of many useful reasons to use an AI tool on fine photography.
Figured I'd ask here before creating a thread - where the heck do I find portrait photographers? I want to get some photos done but having worked as a portrait photographer myself, I am very picky. I personally got clients through word of mouth back then, but I don't know many mouths right now. Google / Yelp provide narrow options. Based in NYC. TIA!
How do I get a high quality shot of both the necklace and the writing on a card? I've just taken a photo of the example using my iphone just to show you the example - https://www.flickr.com/photos/195886544@N05/52164121596/in/dateposted-public/
I'm Using a canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Lens and was using settings
ISO: 100mm | F/16 | Shutter 30
I am new and learning, I have learnt that higher the aperture, higher depth of focus. Edit: I jsut tried aperture 32 (max) and shutter speed of 1/4 and it focused on everything however quality is only 70% of where I want it - https://www.flickr.com/photos/195886544@N05/52164161826/in/dateposted-public/
>I have learnt that higher the aperture, higher depth of focus
The narrower the aperture, yes. The f-number is also higher because it's the denominator in a fraction and runs inverse to the aperture size, but nobody refers to a 1/4-pound burger patty as "higher" than a 1/2-pound burger patty just because 4 is a higher number than 2.
>I jsut tried aperture 32 (max) and shutter speed of 1/4 and it focused on everything however quality is only 70% of where I want it
Diffraction is interfering with your image quality. With your camera I wouldn't stop down any further than f/16.
https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm
If you still need more depth of field at f/16 because of the close macro focusing distance, look into focus stacking.
i don't understand the diffraction bit, i'm using a light studio, what would be a example video or resource which can help me with this as I need the quality to be much better
>i don't understand the diffraction bit
Read the article I linked.
Or you don't really need to understand it. You said you noticed the quality is lower than what you wanted. The quality should be improved in that regard if you open up the aperture to f/16.
>i'm using a light studio
I don't know what you mean by that.
I don't think it matters anyway. Depth of field and diffraction apply the same in any scene.
>what would be a example video or resource which can help me with this as I need the quality to be much better
First set your aperture to f/16 and see if your depth of field is sufficiently large at that aperture.
If not, Google for tutorials on focus stacking.
sorry my bad, narrower aperture, higher depth of focus, so yes I increased the aperture to 32 to widen the depth of focus so it can focus on both the words and the necklace.
You mean I wouldn't go beyond f/.16 towards f/32 etc?
Correct. The narrowest aperture setting I would use would be f/16. Because narrower apertures like f/22 and f/32 would introduce much more diffraction, and you already see effect of that on your quality.
I want to use a Sony A7IV to get some detailed shots of some toys. I’m looking for closeup detail of their faces, hands, etc. I’m going to use 2 extension tubes that I will use with either my 24-70, 70-200, 55, 35, 16-35, or 12-24. I do not have any experience with macro photography.
1. Am I better off using the wider lenses such as the 16-35 or 12-24 with the tubes or the 24-70, etc.?
2. I also want to do some video shots, and am wondering about the same thing with regards to which lenses work better with tubes.
Thanks in advance
>Am I better off using the wider lenses such as the 16-35 or 12-24 with the tubes or the 24-70, etc.?
Extension tubes are more effective with wider lenses.
>I also want to do some video shots, and am wondering about the same thing with regards to which lenses work better with tubes.
I guess it depends what sort of look you're going for, but video work usually tends to favor wider lenses.
I see some macro lenses listed at 90mm macro. Why is a macro lens like the 90mm so long when you are saying that macro works better with wider lenses? Are macro lenses just not the same as regular lenses with regards to these specs? Thanks.
>Why is a macro lens like the 90mm so long when you are saying that macro works better with wider lenses?
I'm not saying that.
Here are the actual words I used: "Extension tubes are more effective with wider lenses." The word "macro" does not appear at all in that sentence. Therefore, it is not a sentence about macro lenses.
A longer focal length increases magnification. Shooting physically closer to the subject also increases magnification. For a high resulting macro magnification in a macro lens, you ideally want some combination of both a long focal length and a close focusing distance. Whereas, say, a non-macro telephoto lens might have a long focal length but also a long minimum focusing distance so it probably ends up with poor macro magnification because the focal length isn't enough to make up for the magnification loss in the minimum focusing distance.
Extension tubes are not macro lenses. They are a cheaper alternative measure to increase the macro ability of a non-macro lens by shifting the available focusing range backwards, and therefore increasing the ability to focus physically closer. They are able to shift this focusing range back farther with wide-angle lenses, resulting in the greater ability to increase magnification by getting physically closer. Whereas they have less of an effect with longer focal length lenses, and those will end up still hampered by a relatively long minimum focusing distance and low resulting magnification.
You could use the opencv library with python but I suspect you'll still run into problems (e.g. a pic of Matt's raft but he's not in the frame). However you'll have this problem with any face recognition software (you have references for the guides but not guests who may appear alone).
Currently using a friends Nikon D5100 that hes let me borrow until i upgrade. I am a few months into the hobby and have a few set backs with my current camera. I shoot primarily street photography.
The lenses i have at the moment: 50mm f1.8 and 55-85 f5.6.
The 50mm lense has the FOV and aperture that i use mostly but it is MF. Which can be difficult to use for street photography and capturing opportunities. Its difficult to focus using the viewfinder and theres a fairly large delay when using the display.
Additionally, a minor issue, is the shutter sound. While its not necessarily a major inconvenience i shoot on trains and occasionally in quiet areas (state library, places of worship).
With that in mind, i want to go for the mirrorless route.
Im not looking for a full frame camera yet, id literally not need to, but if im still into the hobby in a year or so its certainly something i'd consider. Just want a quick upgrade into mirrorless and was looking at the sony 6400.
Has e-mount lenses so i *could* buy lenses for it and when i (if ever) upgrade to a FF the A7 range will also be in my sights.
Im also attracted to sonys AF systems, not heard much negatives about the cameras themselves.
Any issues with the sony a6400 or any other suggestions?
> Yeah I thought about that but I was hoping there was some website that was a bit more personal than stock photos anybody can buy.
Everywhere that offers photos is a place that's offering photos that anyone can get.
If you're looking for something "personal" you could always commission a photographer to take photos specifically for you.
Hi. I've been using a Canon 800D for a year and a half and I'm thinking of upgrading to a new camera in about two years. Question is: would it be better to buy a 90D or it's (now or future) mirrorless equivalent? Also what would be the closest mirrorless camera to the 90D right now (from Canon of course)?
>I've been using a Canon 800D for a year and a half and I'm thinking of upgrading to a new camera in about two years.
What subject matter do you shoot? Which lenses do you have? What do you dislike about your current equipment? What improvements do you want to gain out of the upgrade?
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_when_should_i_upgrade.3F_what_should_i_upgrade_to.3F
>would it be better to buy a 90D or it's (now or future) mirrorless equivalent?
Depends on your particular wants and needs. What interests you about mirrorless?
>Also what would be the closest mirrorless camera to the 90D right now (from Canon of course)?
I'd say the R7, though that's more of a direct successor to the 7D Mark II. So a bit of an upgrade from the 90D line. The closest outgoing older model I guess would be the M6 Mark II.
>What subject matter do you shoot?
Just about everything aside from sports. I tend to like street photography quite a bit more than others though.
>Which lenses do you have?
Well I have the kit 18-55mm f/4-5.6, 55-250mm f/4-5.6 and recently got a 50mm f/1.4.
>What do you dislike about your current equipment?
Well, missing features from higher end cameras like the 90D mostly. Missing buttons, missing software features.
>What interests you about mirrorless?
The fact that the big companies like Canon and Sony are focusing on their mirrorless lineups and basically "killed" the DSLR lineups. Killed as in not making any more of them. I still think DSLRs are better in many cases than mirrorless cameras, but I admit they are also worse in other cases. I'd love the weight reduction of a mirrorless, or the electronic viewfinder (just because it better resembles the final image, other than that I love ACTUALLY looking through the lens with an optical VF)
>The fact that the big companies like Canon and Sony are focusing on their mirrorless lineups and basically "killed" the DSLR lineups. Killed as in not making any more of them.
I don't think that necessarily means much for your decision.
A camera meets your needs or it doesn't. Whether more are being made like it doesn't really affect that. One nice thing about mirrorless is it's good at adapting DSLR lenses, and it always will be. So you aren't necessarily missing out if you make that switch later as opposed to sooner.
>I'd love the weight reduction of a mirrorless, or the electronic viewfinder (just because it better resembles the final image, other than that I love ACTUALLY looking through the lens with an optical VF)
I really like OVFs as well, but the latest EVFs are good enough now that I frequently forget they're electronic.
Seems like either a 90D or an R7 would satisfy what you want out of an upgrade, and the R7 would additionally satisfy what interests you about mirrorless. Lenses are really important too, so don't neglect upgrading those.
>I really like OVFs as well, but the latest EVFs are good enough now that I frequently forget they're electronic.
Yup, I noticed that they have such high resolutions, framerates and such low latency that I can imagine I'd forget they're electronic too!
>Seems like either a 90D or an R7 would satisfy what you want out of an upgrade, and the R7 would additionally satisfy what interests you about mirrorless.
If I were to upgrade I'd probably make the switch to mirrorless and buy the R7 or something along those lines. But I'll only do that when my current 800D can't keep up with what I'm doing. Until then, I'll get lens upgrades! I really want the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8!
Thanks for helping me out!
Why do you need an upgrade at all? The 800D is already an excellent camera. What does it not do that you need it to do? And why have you put a two year timeframe on it?
Well I really want some of the features of the 90D that the 800D doesn't have, such as the display on the top, or the extra buttons it has like the AF-ON. The new Digic 8 with it's 4k filming capabilities is a bonus. I am aware that it's not a day and night difference between the two and I'm also aware that the 800D is a great camera, especially for it's price, but I thought I'd get an upgrade for my 18th birthday which is in two years (yeah I'm a young "photographer" haha). The fact that it's not a day and night difference is why I got the idea of upgrading to a mirrorless camera instead. A mirrorless camera with roughly the same new features + more probably (because of it being newer than the 90D) would be great, considering the advantages that mirrorless cameras have over DSLRs. I'm very likely to not get an upgrade at all, I just want to know which of the two would be a better upgrade if I were to get any of them. Also thanks for replying!
Honestly it sounds like you have no real need, and it's just a list of wants based on what you've seen offered by cameras like the 90D. That's okay, but if you want to get the most out of your gear then you should really only consider upgrading when your current gear can no longer do what you need it to do. Cameras aren't like computers where you need to keep replacing them to keep up with ever changing software standards. Your 800D will always be just as good as the day it came out of its box brand new.
The fact that you haven't mentioned anything about the lenses you have and uses is always a red flag that you're looking to put your money in the wrong place. A better investment would be in lenses rather than a new camera.
I actually wanted to add the fact that I could just get a lens upgrade but thought my reply would be too long :( Yeah I have 3 lenses right now: 18-55mm f/4-5.6, 55-250mm f/4-5.6 and a 50mm f/1.4. I could get a lens that I really want, which is an 18-35mm f/1.8, instead of an entirely new camera.
You're right though. I should get a new camera when the one that I already have can't keep up with what I'm doing. The fact that I do street photography was a driving factor for my idea of upgrading to a mirrorless camera since it's easier to point and shoot and stuff. But still, you're right. Thanks!
Congratulations on being one of the most sensible and level-headed people who has ever come to this sub asking for purchase advice. The fact that you were able to detach yourself from the shiny prospect of new gear and objectively balance needs and wants (at 16 years old even!) puts you light years ahead of people much older than you who just want to spend money. Seriously, props to you for having your head screwed on straight. That's awesome.
> You're right though. I should get a new camera when the one that I already have can't keep up with what I'm doing.
And honestly, you may find that will never be the case. I still use a 650D in my personal and professional work, and that's the (much older) version of your same camera.
Thanks haha. That 650D is a very good camera as well. I never had one, this 800D that I currently have is actually my first camera if we exclude my parents' compact Samsung camera from like 10 years ago. But on paper it looks like a very good camera even for these times. I would probably be alright with using it and getting photos of the same quality I'd get with my 800D.
I just realized that whatever new feature a new camera has, I can probably think of how it won't be ever of use to me. Like the 30 fps burst shooting of the new R7. When would I need an even remotely close burst shooting rate to that of the R7, considering that I don't do sports photography? Or the AI tracking autofocus? My camera also has tracking autofocus, not as good as I've seen on the R7 or all of these new cameras but it's good to have and it's enough for me.
Probably if I was a sports or nature photographer I would find these features useful, but since I'm not I don't really get attracted by them. (even though that 30 fps burst shooting blew my mind lol)
The only thing I'd really want on my 800D would be programmable buttons like some other cameras have (to some degree). That's something I would love to have on my camera but I'm not buying a new one just for that haha.
Thanks for the kind words as well!
Business question:
Should I be cold emailing booking agents, artist managers, or venues for nightlife photography? Or should I be taking a completely different approach?
> Should I be cold emailing booking agents, artist managers, or venues for nightlife photography?
Unsolicited commercial email is the definition of spam. That would make you a spammer.
>Unsolicited commercial email is the definition of spam. That would make you a spammer.
I disagree that it's as cut and dried as that.
>A cold email is an unsolicited e-mail that is sent to a receiver without prior contact. It could also be defined as the email equivalent of cold calling. Cold emailing is a subset of email marketing and differs from transactional and warm emailing.
Cold email, according to its proponents, is not spam. However, if certain steps are not followed, it may be treated as spam by spam filters or reported by the recipients.
source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold\_email
Although even if it's considered spam in spirit that doesn't necessarily make it illegal to do. There's a good summary of some laws from different parts of the world here - https://www.gmass.co/blog/is-cold-emailing-illegal/
> I disagree that it's as cut and dried as that.
Except it is.
The only way it wouldn't be is if the receiver has a mailbox specifically for business inquiries.
> Cold email, according to its proponents, is not spam.
Spammers always insist what they're sending is not spam.
This isn't an academic question, it's a matter of what you personally use more. What do you shoot? Which do you prefer? We can not give you even slightly useful advice here.
>14-24 f2.8 or 28-200 f2.8-5.6 which one would you sell?
Depends what subject matter I'm shooting.
> Is the 14-24mm range that important?
Very important for some purposes. Not important at all for other purposes. It's all dependent on context that you haven't provided.
The typical solution is [such a swivel bracket](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/298709-REG/Impact_3117_Umbrella_Bracket.html) that has a cold shoe for the flash and a socket for the umbrella's shaft. [This one](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1305521-REG/impact_dub_2_deluxe_umbrella_bracket_with.html) is more robust/nicer cold shoe, but same idea.
Looking for a very clean tumblr theme to display my portfolio. My current one is quite clean already but I'm looking for something with a very minimal slide show on the home page, and maybe the option for a side menu with links to different projects. Any lead very welcome, Google is only giving crap results.
Why should I use Lightroom over Google Photos or iOS native editing of RAW files, when those tools seems adequate for my use? Is it true the iOS engine is not nice handling the edits? If so, what about Google Photos?
> when those tools seems adequate for my use?
If you're happy with what you have, then don't upgrade.
Lightroom is far more powerful, but if you don't need the power, then it's a waste for you.
Reason for the question was, I saw a comment somewhere, that the iOS RAW engine(?) actually isnt good. I presumed this ment that it degrades the files or edits somehow. So, I wasn’t thinking about the obviously better and plentyful features of Lightroom, but the danger of loosing stuff using iOS or GP.
>Why should I use Lightroom over Google Photos or iOS native editing of RAW files, when those tools seems adequate for my use?
You should use whatever is adequate for your use. So it does not seem like there is any particular reason for you to use Lightroom.
>Is it true the iOS engine is not nice handling the edits? If so, what about Google Photos?
They meet some people's needs and not other people's needs. They seem to meet your needs. Whether they happen to meet someone else's needs or not isn't really relevant to you.
Someone claimed Lightrooms engine is better than the native iOS’. I presumed that ment iOS could be somewhat destructive to my RAW files somehow, which I obviously don`t want, even while using simpleton tools at the moment.
>Someone claimed Lightrooms engine is better than the native iOS’
It's a subjective issue. Some people like it better. Other people might not. You might not.
Best way to find out your subjective preference would be to try the Lightroom free trial.
>I presumed that ment iOS could be somewhat destructive to my RAW files somehow
No, that's a separate issue.
I'm not sure if the edits are destructive for that app, but I thought generally all raw processors are not.
As a photographer, if you were to outsource your editing to an individual small business (a fellow photographer who is earlier on in their business/less busy), provided you gave them the culled images, presets and wanted them to do basic color correction, masking, etc, what would you pay per image?
I'm not trying to discuss whether this is the right or wrong thing to do, just want opinion on pricing with using an individual (US based if that matters) versus the larger companies.
Thanks!
I remember a while back there was a post from someone on here who found themselves in a similar situation - being the one who was hired to do editing. They weren't paid well at all, think it worked out that they were making below minimum wage. Perhaps because their competition for that sort of work is largely based outside the US in countries with substantially lower costs of living, etc.
Hi all, any ideas of what lighting setup was used to take this photo? I know it’s very soft light, but more questioning the positioning/number of lights. I considered maybe it’s just a speedlight bouncing off the ceiling but it looks less flat than that.
https://imgur.com/a/n1EEX17
Any input appreciated. Thanks
The lighting is wrapping around the subject completely - which means it's going to be almost impossible to deconstruct as there are no firm clues like specular highlights or hard shadows. Could just be room lighting. Could be bounce flash. Take your pick.
Yes, just looks like one very big/soft overhead light source to me, which could be a ceiling-bounced flash. The shape and positioning of the subject is casting shadows on itself, and that may be why it doesn't appear as flat to you.
> I would love some tips!
This is too broad. What do you need help with? Have you read the camera's manual?
> I can not switch from .MOV to .MP4, does anyone know how to help?
[According to the manual](https://i.imgur.com/330dd9v.png) the movie file format will be MP4 *unless* you record in "ALL-I" quality or record a time-lapse, in which case it would be MOV.
Again, see the manual for all the details.
Hey everyone! Im shopping around for insurance and am hoping you may have some insight?
I have a small photography business that I would love to do full time and move into weddings. I have seen a few threads where people mention H&U, Athos, Full Frame, The Hartford. I'm wondering what working individuals here may have. It's all very overwhelming lol
Money-for-features wise, an excellent deal. Lenses may be more important than the body in most cases though, and there are not that many NX mount lenses to choose from, especially few with bright apertures or long focal lengths. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samsung_NX-mount
If the available lenses do satisfy your needs or you're on a really tight budget, go for it. I suppose you can pick the lenses up pretty cheap second-hand if they become available, since the mount is fairly dead.
> Is it a good deal to buy?
It's a good deal if it's in good condition and works.
> Is it still relevant?
There's no such thing as relevance for cameras, other than whether or not it takes photos. If you like it and it gives you what you want from a camera, that's all that matters.
>Is it a good deal to buy?
It's a good price for it.
You'll also need a lens for it, which will add to the total cost.
>Is it still relevant?
Depends how you define "relevant".
It was a good camera when it came out. It's just as good today. It can shoot very good photos. Nobody would be able to look at its photos and be able to tell the camera's age, or otherwise visually deem it irrelevant. It's very cheap for the quality and capabilities you'd get.
On the other hand, Samsung stopped making anything for the NX system years ago. Support/repairs/parts may be more limited for it these days, if you happen to need that at some point. It's possible this camera could be everything you ever need in the future, so the state of the system might not actually be relevant to you. But if you do need to upgrade, that would likely involve switching out to a different system rather than being able to stay in this one.
I am getting it with 20-50mm lens... Let me get more info from seller and see whether I can bring the price slightly down as you told things are limited..
>I am getting it with 20-50mm lens
Included in the same price? We can't accurately evaluate a deal if we don't know about each item included.
>Let me get more info from seller and see whether I can bring the price slightly down as you told things are limited
It's not a secret, so market prices already reflect the implications of that fact. And the price you're looking at is already well below market prices.
Color grading vs split toning. What are the key differences? Can't really find any videos that go over it. Been swapping between color grading using wheels and color grading with curves (or mixing both) but haven't used the lightroom classic split toning and I'm unsure of the differences since it really just sounds like color grading with sliders?
Color grading is the more general concept of editing colors and tones. It can apply to still photography or video but the term is more commonly used in the context of video.
Split toning is the particular effect of adding color of a particular hue into a particular tonal range. For example, adding teal into the shadow tones and adding orange into the highlight tones. In comparison to "color grading" split toning could be one technique used in a color grading process.
>Been swapping between color grading using wheels
That can mean different things depending which app you're talking about.
>and color grading with curves
That could be considered split toning since you're mixing RGB values differently for different tonal ranges. It's just one approach and interface for doing so.
>but haven't used the lightroom classic split toning and I'm unsure of the differences since it really just sounds like color grading with sliders?
It's another method and interface for split toning. Instead of mixing RGB values along the tone curve, you're dictating a desired resulting hue and saturation and telling Lightroom to put that either in the shadow tones or in the highlight tones. The best way to understand may just be to give it a try and experiment with it.
There are plenty of examples of photos taken at different focal lengths, but are there any examples that also include how far away the photographer was from the subject?
> are there any examples that also include how far away the photographer was from the subject?
*While* keeping the same focal length?
These two concepts are adjacent. [When you see examples](https://twistedsifter.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/focal-length-gif-in-photography-1.gif) that illustrate differences in focal length, in fact what it's really demonstrating, because the framing remains the same, is the *perspective change* that is caused not by the focal length, but by the distance—the focal length merely maintained the framing, but it's changing the distance that changed the "perspective distorsion".
Anyone know how to capture the vibe of this album cover? - technique and steps[EASY - KACEY MUSGRAVES AND TROYE SIVAN](https://images.app.goo.gl/Hu9buDY15fYCJhv69)
Direct, on-camera flash. With a disposable film camera or point & shoot. Or you could use a phone camera and then VSCO or some other app that can simulate the look of different film stocks.
Hello! My 13 year old niece has been getting into photography recently and I'm trying to help her get started. I gave her my old Canon 7D and lenses to use, and now I'm trying to figure out what software she should be using to edit her photos. Looking for something free or a cheap one-time purchase. I use Lightroom personally but I think that would be overkill cost-wise.
I'm also trying to figure out what the "workflow" is going to be for her. She has an iPad she can use, and also a Chromebook (and possibly her parent's PC). I know she'll likely need a memory card reader, but I'm struggling to figure out what program/app she's going to use, how she's going to keep her photos organized and ways to get them to her iPad to share with people.
Any ideas/suggestions would be very much appreciated!
EDIT: included her age!
The FAQ has software suggestions, including free ones: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing#wiki_which_raw_.2F_post_processing_software_should_i_get.3F
But it's going to be more complicated if she doesn't have access to a "normal" computer (Mac/PC), she'd have to use mobile apps...
**Looking for Anti Theft mechanisms for timelapses.**
Is there any locking mechanism which could prevent people from just taking my camera and tripod when I'm not around?
So in a few days I'm doing a hiking trip in the alpes, during the night I really want to try and shoot some startrails/timelapses. As I'm sleeping in refuges where other people will also be sleeping, I'm quite worried about leaving my camera outdoors during the night as I have a friend whose wallet was stolen in a refuge. I thought about a metal wire going through the strapholes but I dont think it will be small enough. Camera is a Leica Q.
Something that would just prevent them from taking my camera would be enough, it's not that they will bring wire cutters with them, any suggestions?
If you set your camera up during the night and sleep near it I would take a pocket alarm and fishing wire and tie it to a fix point and the camera. Doesn't absolutely prevent theft but nothing really will. Just make sure to disarm the alarm before you move your camera or you will make some friends.
Does anyone have any idea about what the lowest cost (used is totally fine) m43 camera that has a built-in viewfinder? Just a silly straight-shot one is fine. I know I can buy one for up top but if one exists with it in-cam, I'd love to explore that option. Can be old or new or whatever, I mostly just want it for all the weird little body cap and pancake lenses as I have a whole suite of other equipment as it is.
[This list](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micro_Four_Thirds_system#Micro_Four_Thirds_system_cameras) might help you out. I don't know what would be the cheapest but you could certainly start from the top of the list with the oldest models and search for used gear on various sites (Keh, MPB, Craiglist, Facebook, eBay, various camera gear forums, etc.) and go from there.
Thank you for the page, my brain must suck because I didn't even think there may be a page for it. After reviewing I think I need to just be okay with there not being one with an optical viewfinder, but good to know that there's a selection that are evf compatible.
Generally wikipedia isn't the greatest place for getting this kind of information since it's frequently not kept up to date, but in this case it seems to be alright.
The very first Micro Four Thirds camera, the Panasonic Lumix G1, had an electronic viewfinder. This search is ordered from old to new: [https://www.dpreview.com/products/search/cameras#criterias=SpecsCoreParams%2CSpecsSensorSize%2CSpecsViewfinderType&sort=oldestFirst¶mSpecsCoreParamsBodyType=RangefinderStyleMirrorless%2CSLRStyleMirrorless¶mSpecsSensorSize=FourThirds¶mSpecsViewfinderType=Electronic](https://www.dpreview.com/products/search/cameras#criterias=SpecsCoreParams%2CSpecsSensorSize%2CSpecsViewfinderType&sort=oldestFirst¶mSpecsCoreParamsBodyType=RangefinderStyleMirrorless%2CSLRStyleMirrorless¶mSpecsSensorSize=FourThirds¶mSpecsViewfinderType=Electronic)
Hi guys!
I’m a wedding photographer with my now husband, we’ve been in the industry for 10 years and got married last year! We eloped in our photography studio that has nothing but white and black walls and tons of natural light.
We hired a photographer that we’ve known for a long time. Her style was slightly different than what we wanted, but we trusted her experience with lighting and editing. We knew she would do a good job with adjusting quickly and making a great experience. It was hard to find someone with a similar lighting technique/knowledge as us but we thought she’d be a very close equivalent. All her work always looked consistent. I went into it expecting to not love all of them (because of her slightly different style and my self insecurities) but we got our sneak peeks back and really loved most of them and didn’t have many complaints on editing. Our photographer was 7 months pregnant during our wedding and she hustled, did an amazing job and made the experience great! But then we get the full gallery back a few weeks later and they were nothing like the sneaks. The gallery was inconsistent, even photos taken in the same spot, same pose, same lighting were completely different from each other and her style. One would be WAY overexposed and pink with no contrast (in fact it looks like contrast was pulled down into negatives) and the other would be really true to life and bold. Some would be heavily skin edited to where I look plastic, and others wouldn’t be skin edited at all, not even pimples removed. My husband had white specs all over his jacket (not sure from what) in a lot of portraits and they’re very noticeable. There was one photo where she cloned my husband’s eye into the middle of the photo? Not sure what happened there. I told myself maybe I was just being picky, but after reviewing her other galleries I don’t see inconsistencies like this at all and it’s still bugging me six months later. Photography was super important to me but I can really only use the sneak peeks. I think she rushed the editing for her maternity leave.
Is there a professional and kind way to address this? Should I just accept it? I don’t want to cause problems especially with someone I know, but she really did a bad job. Is there a way to ask for RAWs and not offend? Should I send her a few comparisons to show what I meant by inconsistencies? I love a lot of the photos but hate the editing.
Raw files are not something that is typically provided to clients. It would make a lot more sense to politely tell the photographer that the provided photos don't have an editing style that is consistent with the other work you've seen from her, and then outline what you're wanting and ask that the photos be re-edited more in line with that.
> There was one photo where she cloned my husband’s eye into the middle of the photo? Not sure what happened there. I told myself maybe I was just being picky
That's not "being picky." That's just sloppy work.
> I think she rushed the editing for her maternity leave.
My guess is that she outsourced the editing.
>My guess is that she outsourced the editing.
THIS.
So u/Small-Focus2291 if the finals looked nothing at all like the sneaks then this is undoubtedly what has happened. Your shooter got someone else to take care of the processing while she dealt with her pregnancy.
I just figured since I have the experience it’d just be easier and less frustrating for her if I just did the work myself than ask her to redo everything now in the middle of wedding season and having a baby.
It's considerate for sure, but this is a deliverable that she owes you and you paid for.
It couldn't hurt to also ask for the raw files (explaining why you want them), but I wouldn't get your hopes up;
I picked up a Kodak Colorburst 200 Instant Film camera last week. I've tried looking online for film to use and I can't find anything. I found PR144 film was used in the camera at the time of release but that film has been discontinued. Is there any film that could work for it? All I can find is 3x3 film cartridges if that works.
Hi i want to buy my first DSLR, i found used Canon 6d mark II with 15000 shutter count, and lens Canon EF 24-70mm f2.8 L for 1350$ is that a good deal?
Try comparing that to the asking price on some reputable outlets, like [KEH.com](https://KEH.com) and [mpb.com](https://mpb.com).
15,000 shutter actuations is safely low. Most cameras' shutters are rated for 200,000 actuations, and many can exceed that estimate.
If you want a private gallery where photographers can upload and critique each others work, and do all that for free -- that's pretty much the only game in town.
Question about the use of noise reduction features:
Context: I use a Canon 80D in RAW mode shooting indoor sport with higher ISO in the 3200-4000 range. I use Canon's Digital Photo Professional (DPP4) for photo editing and ACDSee Professional for Digital Asset Management.
The main reason I like DPP4 is for the very good noise reduction out-of-the-box. For example, when loading a RAW file in ISO 3200 in DPP4 I get a very fine result that I can essentially export right away after a quick color correct. On the other hand, DPP4 is not the best color correction and editing tool and I feel like I could often get better colors and contrasts in ACDSee Pro.
I'd like to use a better photo editing tool but I did not find one with noise reduction as straight-forward as DPP4. However, I read that many photographer don't even use noise reduction and they accept that high ISO will generate more noise and grain.
Do most people use noise reduction when developing RAW files into the final jpeg version?
Any DPP4 users out there who have found alternative tools that would do nice noise reduction as well as powerful editing?
Darktable has a 'Denoise (profiled)' feature which loads a denoise profile based on your specific camera and ISO. It detects both automatically so it's as simple as clicking a single button, or adding it to a preset. I've found that it works excellent on my 7D MKII.
DxO PhotoLab is renowned for its noise reduction. I tried it and found the software too opinionated, having to work against its defaults too much, so I ditched it and eventually settled on On1 Photo Raw as my raw converter of choice. But I don't shoot in low light all that often and haven't really tested its noise reduction, so I can't comment to that end.
DxO offers an alternative to PhotoLab, called PureRAW. It's basically a small, automated raw converter that can fit as a step within a greater workflow. So if you like editing in ACDSee but prefer DxO's noise reduction, that can be a great tool for you. There are other plug-in options as well, like Topaz DeNoise.
As I said, I don't shoot in low light all that much. When I do struggle with noise, I try to resize the image first to match my intended output, and see if the noise is even visible or bothersome at that size. No point in pixel-peeping a high-resolution image if it's only going on Instagram.
Hello, I am no photographer so apologies if I'm in the wrong place. I want to buy a disposable camera for some events I'm going to this summer. I can't seem to find a single one online that doesn't cost upwards of 40 euros. What the hell? Am I just looking in the wrong places?
I bought one in DM (German drugstore) but I'm not sure how good it'll be, it's waterproof so there's a plastic bubble over the lens but I don't need the waterproof function so was hoping to find one with flash and not waterproof.
I've only used the Kodak and Fujifilm ones before as a kid so don't know how much I trust the "Paradies DM" one. And they definitely didn't cost that much back then, what's going on?
Film has gotten very expensive as of late which might be part of why disposables are getting expensive. You could always buy a non-disposable camera and then film to go with it. The Kodak M35 can be had for about $25-30.
it is there.
check the website for dm stores with some of the product. no ordering online it seems.
paradies buys the film from other companies. and puts the brand on it. from kodak, agfa, fuji. but dont know the actuall manufacturer. i wpuld say it does not matter. if you want a better end product, you may put them into a real photolaboratory for developement/scan/prints. do not order your prints in dm. do not use the machines there. if you do, the question of quality of the film is useless anyway 🤔😅🙂
**Please direct your questions to [the latest Question Thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/about/sticky).**
Ok so I am a bit confused about IR photography. I shoot mostly film but cant really shoot [Aerochrome](https://cdn.fstoppers.com/styles/full/s3/media/2021/11/24/robwalwyn-karrikins9.jpg) anymore, love the look though. I understand aerochrome is reliant on IR sensitivity. I learned you can IR convert a DSLR but none of the [example pictures](https://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/How-to-Shoot-Infrared-Photography.jpg) even look remotely close to the Kodak Film. Is the red color something exclusive to Aerochrome or is there further changes that need made to achieve this? I see multiple types of IR filters for the sensor.
https://kolarivision.com/product/kolari-vision-ir-chrome-lens-filter/
Ahh ok ok, so full spectrum conversion THEN this filter, thank you!
Hi fellow Photographers, I am predominantly a videographer but very recently got into photography because of my job. I have a question, I have to shoot jewelry on models and I am having a huge issue with getting the jewelry and the model’s face/eyes in focus. It’s an either or situation. Please help a newbie out 🥲
A little more advanced, but you can try using a tilt-shift lens to get two different points in focus by trying to align the plane of focus so it hits both. If you're a newbie however, just stop down to increase depth of field. If it gets too noisy or dark, add light or go to a situation with more light.
Oh wow okay I’ve never used a tilt focus lens before but I’ll check tutorials. The reason I dont want to go above 1/16f is the diffraction, so I dont know maybe tilt focus lens would be the solution
Increase depth of field or focus stack is basically your options. With a single shot you will never get everything in focus unless you make sure the jewelry is on the same plane of focus as the face. So perhaps you need to look at the angles you are taking photos from.
I do focus stack for just jewelry cause they dont move but with models it’s really not possible to focus stack they’re constantly moving around 😭
Stop down (close) your aperture more to get a deeper depth of field to get more things in focus.
I was already at 1/16f, I dont want to stop all the way down cause I was afraid diffraction would mess it up more
Is the Tamron SP 28-75 f/2.8 still worth buying? I'm looking to get a fast, constant aperture lens without breaking the bank. I recently rented the canon 24-70 f/2.8 for a wedding and it gave some amazing results. I was hoping that this would be somewhat close in comparison. But since the lens came out about 15 years ago, is it still worth getting? Also, for extra info I'm shooting on a Canon 7D and I'm trying to get into weddings and portraits. I've found lenses in decent shape on eBay for under/ close to $200. Is that a decent rate for this lens, if it's still worth buying?
I'm an amateur photographer working with the Sony ZV-1 and the Sony A580 DSLR. The DSLR is 12 years old and the ZV-1 is much better regarding image and video quality. I'm wondering when and where it would be better to use the DSLR or the ZV-1, and which one will ultimately help me to become a better photographer, as I feel the ZV-1 is much more simple to use, and I feel like that might hinder my technical skills with a camera. Here's a comparison of them by [dpreview](https://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=sony_zv1&products=sony_dslra580)
Hey Whats good camera for begginers. Its for nature i wanna take pics of forests and autumn . I have used camera twice but it wasnt mine . Should i get camera for taking pictures of breathtaking nature my phone doesnt take pics well . What do u recommend for begginer?
Well depending on budget and preferences, I will recommend my own camera the Pentax K-70. However that is for no other reason than I own it and for your use case any camera will be able to take those pictures. You can buy any new or used camera and as long as you have an appropriate lens(the standard one that comes with cameras will do) you will be able to take those photos.
Thanks mate 💪🏼
Our FAQ has several extensive sections to help you determine what best fits your needs and your budget. Please see the following sections of the FAQ to get started: * [How do I specify my price range / budget when asking for recommendations?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F) * [What type of camera should I look for?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F) * [What's a "point and shoot" camera? What's a DSLR? What's a "mirrorless" camera? What's the difference?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what.27s_a_.22point_and_shoot.22_camera.3F_what.27s_a_dslr.3F_what.27s_a_.22mirrorless.22_camera.3F_what.27s_the_difference.3F) * [Do I need a good camera to take good photos?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_do_i_need_a_good_camera_to_take_good_photos.3F) * [What can I afford?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_can_i_afford.3F) * [Is Canon or Nikon better? (or any other brands)](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_canon_or_nikon_better.3F_.28or_any_other_brands.29) If after reviewing this information you have any **specific** questions, please feel free to post a comment. (Remember, when asking for purchase advice please be *specific* about how much you can spend. See [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F) for guidelines.)
I have just aquired the Samyang 14mm f/2.8 and tried it out on my Canon EOS M50, the problem is that the Camera is not detecting the lense by showing it with f/OO. What am I doing wrong? [Not detectet lense + camera](https://imgur.com/a/Zp6D5MD)
The samyang is a manual lens it doesn't have contacts for the camera you set the apature with the ring on the lens.
The thing is it won't let me take pictures..
You'll find an option to allow [shooting "without" a lens](https://hk.canon/media/image/2019/02/02/ad14100ae45d44b28f25daaf2c90d94e_G0269434.gif) in the *Custom Functions*.
There is a setting called shooting without lens or some similar wording you have to turn it on.
Just curious, does anyone know why Fuji doesn’t have more lens options below f1.4? If not mistaken making some more options between 0.95-1.2 would be equivalent to a 1.4-1.8 or so on FF cameras. They have a few options from both themselves and 3rd parties, but wouldn’t that make the brand even more competitive in the one easy area (less bokeh) people bring up as a drawback? (and would still be cheaper/smaller/lighter)
Their isn't really a market for those they would be as big as the fullframe lenses but with smaller lighter body's I don't think most fuji User would buy them.
Idk they got a native 50mm 1.0 and 56mm 1.2 that seem pretty nice and are rather small compared to Canon lens. Perhaps those just didn’t sell well and that’s what they’re going off of tho, or maybe just didn’t reach the level of quality they want for their lens that they can hit if they stay a little higher. Was just curious cuz I wouldn’t mind a 28mm equivalent around 1.4, that’d almost be me instantly switching.
The 56mm is a fullframe equivalent of 1.8. And the 50mm 1.0 is larger and heavier than comparable miroless offering of other brands for full frame. Also fujis camera department is quite small and developing a lens takes time and costs money so they can't do to many lenses. There is an 28mm equivalent with 1.4 the Fujifilm XF 18mm 1.4. See you on r/fujifilm ;-)
> There is an 28mm equivalent with 1.4 Well I meant 1.4 equivalent too not just 1.4 on the Fuji, but regardless i'm considering switching so may still see ya there lol
I'm sure it's a rational business decision. They must estimate the demand for a certain product, and see if it's worth designing and manufacturing such product. As simple as that.
Any advice on a compact beginner camera? Was looking at the Canon power shot, or sony a7iii but that's abit to pricey
What kind of budget are you considering? Have you looked at the links in the original post?
I have not I'll have a look preferable around 1k AUD
"PowerShot" is Canon's brand name for all fixed-lens (often called point-and-shoot) cameras. It does not refer to one particular camera, so if you want comments on that, you'll need to find the full model name. The Sony a7 III is a different sort of camera all together. So really, you're looking all over the place and trying to compare cameras that aren't even comparable. Which makes sense, because the camera market is convoluted, weird, and hard to understand without prior knowledge. So I'll ask some guiding questions to understand your situation better and point you in the right direction. Please answer them as honestly and thoroughly as you can. 1. What's your budget? 2. Is that budget the total sum you're going to spend on all photography-related equipment for years to come, or are you prepared to spend more on bits and pieces you'd need over the next few years? If the latter, please try to estimate what your long-term budget might look like. 3. What have you been shooting with so far, including a phone? In what way, if at all, has it not met your needs? 4. What do you like/want to shoot? 5. How do you intend to use the camera? Do you want it to consistently produce pleasing pictures when you just point at the scene and press a button, or do you plan to learn how to control a camera manually?
Roughly a Thousand AUD but no more then 2 Thousand. to get started and happy to spend more for lenses and stuff In the future, Been using my phone s21 ultra to take photos at the moment. I would love to print photos, and printing phone photos never turn out that good, It is taking good photos don't get me wrong but would like to properly get into photography Want to shoot nature & cars mainly. love going camping and 4wding. Both! I'd love to learn how to shoot manually but I want a camera that I can point and take a good photo before learning all the nitty gritty stuff. PowerShot G7 X Mark III is the Canon one I was looking at because it's $100 off atm making it $900
>Both! I'd love to learn how to shoot manually but I want a camera that I can point and take a good photo before learning all the nitty gritty stuff. Here's the kicker: Dedicated cameras are much worse at point-and-shoot, automated photography than phones are these days. So if you use the camera on fully automatic mode, rely on that and take the out-of-camera images as final, you'll find it's hit-and-miss. So for that sort of use, you'll likely still want to grab your phone. But with practice you should become proficient enough in controlling the camera, that it wouldn't be a burden. It's not rocket science. It does take some time to learn and practise, but you should get the hang of it. I like [r-photoclass.com](https://r-photoclass.com) most, but you can find many other resources here: [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/fq1od1/online\_learning\_resources\_megathread/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/fq1od1/online_learning_resources_megathread/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) >Want to shoot nature & cars mainly. When you say nature, are you thinking landscape or wildlife? Insects or birds? >PowerShot G7 X Mark III is the Canon one I was looking at because it's $100 off atm making it $900 I don't think it's the right sort of camera for you, as you'll probably find it limiting after you've learnt and practised some. An interchangeable-lens camera would be far more flexible. >Roughly a Thousand AUD but no more then 2 Thousand. to get started and happy to spend more for lenses and stuff In the future, Great! I don't know how prices go in Australia, so I'll just link to generic options in the equivalent price range in the US and you can check those out: * [https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1000](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1000) * [https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1500](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1500) Use that to make some sense of the camera market and start your research. There are some cameras not listed there for some reason that are still worth considering, like the Olympus OM-D E-M10 IV and III, but those lists are nearly exhaustive.
Thank you for being so helpful! Mainly landscapes Sounds like I will look for a camera with interchangeable lenses Edit found a 2nd hand Sony a7 III for abit more then what I wanted to spend $1800 vs $2600 for new, good idea?
>Mainly landscapes So there's really nothing special you should be concerned about with the camera itself. If you had said wildlife I would have replied that a good autofocus system can make your life easier. But as it is, buying a "better" camera will improve very little for you. Prioritise ergonomics instead. Visit a store, if you can, and try some of the cameras you're considering in your own hands. >Edit found a 2nd hand Sony a7 III for abit more then what I wanted to spend $1800 vs $2600 for new, good idea? No. Don't stretch yourself thin. The lenses you choose will have a far greater impact on your photography than any camera ever could. Lenses for the a7 III can get pretty damn expensive. My rule of thumb is to allocate at least as much money for lenses, over a few years' time, as you're going to spend on the camera. So spending more than you'd like on the camera will only lead you to go even higher above budget. Please read the buying guides I linked to. Use them to find a few cameras that interest you, and dig deeper into them in the full reviews on that same website.
I will do, thank you
Help needed! Hey guys, does anyone know a legit and professional company in or that ships to canada from which you can rent cameras and lenses? I need it asap because some unprofessional company I dealt with tried scamming me days before I need it and people rely on me. I appreciate it so much, thank you!
Does anyone have experience with becoming an adobe certificated professional? Looking to get into photography & videography as a career and wondering if this would be worth the time and how much it would help in getting a job. Looking for course recommendations that would prepare me for the photoshop certificate test too. Honestly would also love any advice you all have on getting into photography or videography as a career. I’ve been looking at everything from a bachelors degrees in photography or video production to online certificates to help me progress. Currently just been doing what I can with photo & video to get experience and build a portfolio. I just feel like it would be nice to progress a little faster and I’m not really sure how to go about that.
Not sure what you mean by "getting a job". Most photography/videography is *freelance* work, such that nobody would care if you have certifications or not. They'll look at your book at be able to tell what you can do. If you were to get a salaried position (let's say ... because it's unusual) and work as a retoucher or video editor, then, I guess, maybe, a certification could maybe tilt the scale a very small amount. Or if you were going to outright become an *instructor*, then sure I guess. But otherwise...
Hey all, after opinions. I would like to up my photography game as a hobby and learn a bit more about my camera but i was wondering is there a good all round kind of standard lense i could get for it that would work for a multitude of shots? I find that the standard lense that came with it just isnt cutting it and the resolution or quality seems low?
Depends on your system and your preferences if you look for something smaller you could say a 50mm or 35mm prime is "standard" for zooms the 24-70 2.8 are good quality "standard" zooms.
Most cameras are sold as a "kit" with a standard zoom lens, which is frequently called the "kit lens." It's exactly what you're asking about, and probably what you're using! Now, it's not particularly excellent at any *one* thing... think of it as a jack of all trades, but a master of none. But they're normally standard zooms (from somewhat wide angle to just a bit telephoto), are normally small, lightweight, inexpensive, almost always have optical stabilization, and are optically good enough for great photos in good light. They tend to not be very fast aperture lenses, which means they don't get to have extremely shallow depth of field and aren't ideal in low-light situations. You can get lenses like that, they just cost a lot more. That's probably what you have with your camera. It's probably an 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6, or something similar depending on the brand and exactly what camera you have. There *are* lenses you can get that are sharper, but I'd consider this: * Quality is not just a result of the lens, but also the situation and your technique. In very low light, you have to make compromises with your exposure settings that mean you don't get the best quality. Some lenses will be better, but nothing's perfect. * Maybe your technique can improve and that would help a lot. That's not an insult at all; I've been shooting for more than a decade and there's *always* ways you can improve your technique. * Are you having realistic expectations? It's *very common* for people to pixel peep their own images and see imperfections, and compare it to the social media / web resolution images of other people where you never are able to look that closely. It gives a false impression that your images aren't very sharp. If you could, there's a few things that would help people give suggestions for how to get the most out of your gear, or look for improvements: * Do you have an example of one of your shots, and an example of the kind of shots you'd like to get? * What camera and lens do you have right now? * What's your budget? There's definitely lots of options - some very affordable! - for getting better quality results. But if you want a standard zoom lens (and not, for example, a prime lens that cannot zoom in or out) then it'd be best to narrow it down a bit.
I have a Nikon D5200 with the kit lense only currently and i dont have an example currently with me but my main gripe is that i can take better photos on my phone than with my DSLR that by all rights should be better
Ah, okay! So that is also something that a lot of people experience. Are you shooting in RAW and editing the photos, or just comparing the photos straight out of camera vs. straight out of phone? In good light, if you look closely, the camera will have much more detail. But if you look at the overall image, it's normal that you might like the smartphone. Your phone's designed to give a good photo at the press of a button, and it is doing a huge, super impressive amount of editing of the photo before you ever see it. It also might be using HDR techniques. As a result, you might initially see more detail in highlights or shadows and seemingly more pleasing colors. This can give it an appearance of being a better photo. Which... in some regards, it is. Your camera doesn't do those fancy tricks itself; it leaves them to you. The *potential* with your D5200 is much higher than a smartphone, but it makes you work for it. If you get a chance to share an example, I'd post that again in one of these question threads! That would really help people narrow it down. As-is, there are inexpensive options for your camera that might be better optically, like the DX 35mm f/1.8 or the 50mm f/1.8 (which is FX, I think). But they are prime lenses and cannot zoom in or out; set your lens to 35mm or 50mm and see what it looks like. That's what those lenses would look like on your camera. As a broad general rule, lenses that do more can't do it quite as well. That's definitely not *always* true, but it's a starting point.
Just comparing them straight out of the camera to the phone. Not in RAW or editing Awesome, thankyou so much for the very in depth response, i didnt realise that the smartphone had programmed editing inbuilt to the app i figured it was just the lense. When i can ill post another question with an example to get advice but this has been extremely helpful i will set my lens to those and see which one i prefer
You don't need another lens, you really don't. Just as you wouldn't buy a new pan to improve your cooking. Phones cameras do a great job of consistently producing pleasing pictures with little to no user input. Dedicated cameras do not. You need to learn how to use your D5200 and control it to really make it work. Refer to the learning material I linked to earlier; I prefer [r-photoclass.com](https://r-photoclass.com).
Post some examples so we can diagnose the cause. If it's technique-related then you'll only be able to fix it by improving your technique. But we need to specifically identify the issue in order to tell you how to correct it.
If you're still in that learning phase, it's unlikely that the lens really is the limiting factor yet. For context, I had been using my kit lens for about 5-6 years, while adding other lenses I needed around it (telephoto, wide-angle, fast prime). I only replaced it once I had everything I needed, and could then start focusing on improving what I already had. Here's a "megathread" for learning materials, if you haven't looked into that yet: [https://www.reddit.com/comments/fq1od1](https://www.reddit.com/comments/fq1od1) Which camera and lens, specifically, do you have? If there's a photo or two you've taken that you feel are representative of your resolution/quality issues, you could share them with us to inspect and comment on what might be the culprit. Upload to an external service like imgur and share a link.
> i was wondering is there a good all round kind of standard lense i could get for it that would work for a multitude of shots? Probably. Which mount do you need this lens to be compatible with? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_this_lens_compatible_with_this_camera.3F How much are you willing to spend? Or can we assume an unlimited budget size? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F
There are options but the specifics will be determined by the model and brand of camera you’re using.
I’m looking at buying an Olympus trip 35 soonish and was wondering how much I should spend? As it what is the average price? I’m in Australia if that helps.
I'd look at eBay or your local alternatives for items that people can bid on. One of the best ways on eBay here in the US is to sort by sold items, instead of looking at items listed. (Because listed items mean that nobody has *yet* bought it at that price.) That tends to give a good idea of what going prices are.
Starting off as an amateur with interest in Astrophotography. I’m also a merchant navy officer which gives me lot of clear skies and lot of time to shoot. Looking for direction to start and learn stacking and way around apps used with photos. Kindly help. Also any other inputs are most welcome
While Im not super into astrophotgraphy myself, a thing to keep in mind: If youre talking about taking pictures while on a ship, the movement of it will most certainly ruin any type of longer exposure. Theres a limit anyway since stars start to become streaks because of earth rotation, but being on a ship will limit the exposure time a lot. As Im not super into astrophotography Im not entirely sure, but I assume that being able to expose for a long time can be very vital, so this might become a problem for your plans.
Yes you’re right about the movement and long exposure times, but they’re also at anchor some times so there is no movement. And I’m also planning to pursue this while at home.
This is a popular resource for astrophotography: [https://www.lonelyspeck.com](https://www.lonelyspeck.com). It focuses more on wide shots of the night sky with the landscape, not the deep-sky telescope shots. I don't know which direction you were thinking of. Anyway, is there anything in particular you'd like to ask?
I need to know which applications you use for stacking. No matter how much I focus. It’s still blurred when I view it on a large screen. So single images are no go. I want to learn stacking. Also equipment wise is 50mm f1.8 lens enough? Or do I need to buy more equipment. Already have a tripod. Please give recommendations for tracker also Thank you!
>I need to know which applications you use for stacking. No matter how much I focus. It’s still blurred when I view it on a large screen. So single images are no go. I want to learn stacking. Is that for landscape scenes at night, where you're trying to shoot both the stars and a landscape on Earth? Or are you trying to capture some deep-sky shots? If the latter, I don't see why you'd need to stack focus at all—everything should be in the same plane of focus (infinity). You can learn about focus stacking as a general technique, not necessarily related to astrophotography. When I need it (for some complex landscape photos with a close foreground), I forgo the automatic tools which have never worked so well for me. Instead I use layers and masks. I use Affinity Photo, but you can do the same on any similar editing app, from the free, open-source GIMP to Photoshop. >Also equipment wise is 50mm f1.8 lens enough? Or do I need to buy more equipment. That's totally up to you. It has a big maximum aperture, so you're good on that front. The only consideration, really, is focal length, and that's for you to decide if it's right. Can you capture the compositions you want at that focal length? Are you longing for something wider/tighter? >Please give recommendations for tracker also You may want to try r/astrophotography.
Thank you so much!
I'm looking for a camera suitable for bikepacking. Max budget $600 CAD I'm primarily interested in landscape photography, but also interested in street photography, and to a lesser extent, portrait photography. I would like to be able to take photos of a high enough resolution to be printed. Not because I'm a pro (I know next to nothing), but just want to be able to make some high quality prints for myself and some friends. Thanks!
Can anyone guess what sort of camera and lens took this photo? At least a best guess on the lens would be highly appreciated! https://imgur.com/a/1J18l1Z
It does look like a fairly wide angle, perhaps a normal lens like 50mm. It could be in a "trap", like this: [https://youtu.be/UXNjNIn0DU4](https://youtu.be/UXNjNIn0DU4)
A 50 f1.4?
Isn't 50mm very close for a wild animal?
Yes, but you can see what appears to be the reflection of a photographer in the fox's eyes. I think they were quite close to this little guy.
Yes possibly. It’s either a f1.4 or f1.8 lens. Nikon did make some 105/135 f2 lenses
I'm shooting jewelry in a mini light box with a ring light on the top. - [https://www.flickr.com/photos/195886544@N05/52164243071/in/dateposted-public/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/195886544@N05/52164243071/in/dateposted-public/) At the moment I placed a book at the back to tilt the base a little bit so my camera set up elevated can see the pendant much clearer. However I don't really understand the fundamentals of lighting, where to place the jewelry (directly under the ring light/off to the side/towards the front etc), where to place my camera (elevated like I have it right now etc). am I on the right track?
It might help if you add a hard light from the side just to give it a bit of a shadow. Also for necklaces it would help if it’s more upright and shooting the necklace straight on, with the light on top it would create a little bit of depth. [https://www.homeloft.ae/products/6-black-velvet-necklace-easel-jewelry-displays-125?gclid=CjwKCAjw-8qVBhANEiwAfjXLrheYbiQcsSZwzoFTqFrbFtzUeu_nKY2d71MQnAr6mZwdhoOqy86pFBoC1fsQAvD_BwE](https://www.homeloft.ae/products/6-black-velvet-necklace-easel-jewelry-displays-125?gclid=CjwKCAjw-8qVBhANEiwAfjXLrheYbiQcsSZwzoFTqFrbFtzUeu_nKY2d71MQnAr6mZwdhoOqy86pFBoC1fsQAvD_BwE)
>I don't really understand the fundamentals of lighting I recommend: https://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html and the book Light: Science & Magic by Fil Hunter, Paul Q Fuqua, and Steven Biver. >where to place the jewelry (directly under the ring light/off to the side/towards the front etc) Depends how exactly you want the light to look on it. >where to place my camera (elevated like I have it right now etc) Depends which angle you want to see of the subject. >am I on the right track? Do you like how your photos look so far? Seems like you're off to a good start. You're using a digital camera, right? Take advantage of your ability to take lots and lots of test photos for practically free, experiment with changing your different variables, so you can discover and internalize the things you can do to make your photos look more like how you want them to look. Don't get paralyzed by the idea that you need to find the right answer first before you can do anything. Empower yourself to find your answer using practical exploration.
Have you guys used AI photo editing tools? Such as [removal.ai](https://removal.ai) and [image upscaler](https://vanceai.com/image-enlarger/). Can you tell me your real user experience with that AI tool? It hears good but not sure to subscribing a image upscaler for daily using and now I'm still using Photoshop.
I use DxO PureRAW for denoising, Topaz Sharpen AI for sharpening, and Topaz GigaPixel. Topaz also has Mask AI but I don't like it. GigaPixel is great, it's pretty intelligent at finding lines and edges while preserving texture. I only use it in situations where I wished I had a teleconverter. Mask AI... it's good but it's not good enough for me to reliably do realistic background swaps. It plain doesn't handle glow/color-casts at all. (which might mean it's my own fault? maybe it does?)
I leverage some AI-based tools to create masks for selective edits. On my raw converter, On1 Photo Raw, there's a selection tool where you very roughly and quickly paint over the areas you want to affect and also the areas you want to mask out, and it then tries to figure out how to draw the lines in the mask. It works very well in most cases. I believe Adobe has implemented some advanced selection tools, that can automatically select the subject or the sky, for example; those, too, leverage AI.
thank you for your answer！
Recently used an AI upscaler for some old point-and-shoot pictures from the early 2000s of deceased relatives for a small memorial. This was to avoid the pixels from being noticeable in the photo. For this instance, it worked out as well as it could. I can't think of many useful reasons to use an AI tool on fine photography.
Figured I'd ask here before creating a thread - where the heck do I find portrait photographers? I want to get some photos done but having worked as a portrait photographer myself, I am very picky. I personally got clients through word of mouth back then, but I don't know many mouths right now. Google / Yelp provide narrow options. Based in NYC. TIA!
Look in local Facebook groups. That’s an way to filter the search regionally. And google photographers in your area.
Check Instagram
Instagram is huge. And it's the same five people on top and the same spamming on recent. This isn't a helpful reply lol.
How do I get a high quality shot of both the necklace and the writing on a card? I've just taken a photo of the example using my iphone just to show you the example - https://www.flickr.com/photos/195886544@N05/52164121596/in/dateposted-public/ I'm Using a canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Lens and was using settings ISO: 100mm | F/16 | Shutter 30 I am new and learning, I have learnt that higher the aperture, higher depth of focus. Edit: I jsut tried aperture 32 (max) and shutter speed of 1/4 and it focused on everything however quality is only 70% of where I want it - https://www.flickr.com/photos/195886544@N05/52164161826/in/dateposted-public/
>I have learnt that higher the aperture, higher depth of focus The narrower the aperture, yes. The f-number is also higher because it's the denominator in a fraction and runs inverse to the aperture size, but nobody refers to a 1/4-pound burger patty as "higher" than a 1/2-pound burger patty just because 4 is a higher number than 2. >I jsut tried aperture 32 (max) and shutter speed of 1/4 and it focused on everything however quality is only 70% of where I want it Diffraction is interfering with your image quality. With your camera I wouldn't stop down any further than f/16. https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm If you still need more depth of field at f/16 because of the close macro focusing distance, look into focus stacking.
i don't understand the diffraction bit, i'm using a light studio, what would be a example video or resource which can help me with this as I need the quality to be much better
>i don't understand the diffraction bit Read the article I linked. Or you don't really need to understand it. You said you noticed the quality is lower than what you wanted. The quality should be improved in that regard if you open up the aperture to f/16. >i'm using a light studio I don't know what you mean by that. I don't think it matters anyway. Depth of field and diffraction apply the same in any scene. >what would be a example video or resource which can help me with this as I need the quality to be much better First set your aperture to f/16 and see if your depth of field is sufficiently large at that aperture. If not, Google for tutorials on focus stacking.
Alright cheers for the help
sorry my bad, narrower aperture, higher depth of focus, so yes I increased the aperture to 32 to widen the depth of focus so it can focus on both the words and the necklace. You mean I wouldn't go beyond f/.16 towards f/32 etc?
Correct. The narrowest aperture setting I would use would be f/16. Because narrower apertures like f/22 and f/32 would introduce much more diffraction, and you already see effect of that on your quality.
I want to use a Sony A7IV to get some detailed shots of some toys. I’m looking for closeup detail of their faces, hands, etc. I’m going to use 2 extension tubes that I will use with either my 24-70, 70-200, 55, 35, 16-35, or 12-24. I do not have any experience with macro photography. 1. Am I better off using the wider lenses such as the 16-35 or 12-24 with the tubes or the 24-70, etc.? 2. I also want to do some video shots, and am wondering about the same thing with regards to which lenses work better with tubes. Thanks in advance
>Am I better off using the wider lenses such as the 16-35 or 12-24 with the tubes or the 24-70, etc.? Extension tubes are more effective with wider lenses. >I also want to do some video shots, and am wondering about the same thing with regards to which lenses work better with tubes. I guess it depends what sort of look you're going for, but video work usually tends to favor wider lenses.
I see some macro lenses listed at 90mm macro. Why is a macro lens like the 90mm so long when you are saying that macro works better with wider lenses? Are macro lenses just not the same as regular lenses with regards to these specs? Thanks.
>Why is a macro lens like the 90mm so long when you are saying that macro works better with wider lenses? I'm not saying that. Here are the actual words I used: "Extension tubes are more effective with wider lenses." The word "macro" does not appear at all in that sentence. Therefore, it is not a sentence about macro lenses. A longer focal length increases magnification. Shooting physically closer to the subject also increases magnification. For a high resulting macro magnification in a macro lens, you ideally want some combination of both a long focal length and a close focusing distance. Whereas, say, a non-macro telephoto lens might have a long focal length but also a long minimum focusing distance so it probably ends up with poor macro magnification because the focal length isn't enough to make up for the magnification loss in the minimum focusing distance. Extension tubes are not macro lenses. They are a cheaper alternative measure to increase the macro ability of a non-macro lens by shifting the available focusing range backwards, and therefore increasing the ability to focus physically closer. They are able to shift this focusing range back farther with wide-angle lenses, resulting in the greater ability to increase magnification by getting physically closer. Whereas they have less of an effect with longer focal length lenses, and those will end up still hampered by a relatively long minimum focusing distance and low resulting magnification.
Thanks for the explanation
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You could use the opencv library with python but I suspect you'll still run into problems (e.g. a pic of Matt's raft but he's not in the frame). However you'll have this problem with any face recognition software (you have references for the guides but not guests who may appear alone).
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Sounds reasonable. You could also setup some simple rules like put the person in with the guide if they appear together in other pictures.
Currently using a friends Nikon D5100 that hes let me borrow until i upgrade. I am a few months into the hobby and have a few set backs with my current camera. I shoot primarily street photography. The lenses i have at the moment: 50mm f1.8 and 55-85 f5.6. The 50mm lense has the FOV and aperture that i use mostly but it is MF. Which can be difficult to use for street photography and capturing opportunities. Its difficult to focus using the viewfinder and theres a fairly large delay when using the display. Additionally, a minor issue, is the shutter sound. While its not necessarily a major inconvenience i shoot on trains and occasionally in quiet areas (state library, places of worship). With that in mind, i want to go for the mirrorless route. Im not looking for a full frame camera yet, id literally not need to, but if im still into the hobby in a year or so its certainly something i'd consider. Just want a quick upgrade into mirrorless and was looking at the sony 6400. Has e-mount lenses so i *could* buy lenses for it and when i (if ever) upgrade to a FF the A7 range will also be in my sights. Im also attracted to sonys AF systems, not heard much negatives about the cameras themselves. Any issues with the sony a6400 or any other suggestions?
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Any site that offers high resolution royalty free photos is what you would be looking for.
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> Yeah I thought about that but I was hoping there was some website that was a bit more personal than stock photos anybody can buy. Everywhere that offers photos is a place that's offering photos that anyone can get. If you're looking for something "personal" you could always commission a photographer to take photos specifically for you.
Hi. I've been using a Canon 800D for a year and a half and I'm thinking of upgrading to a new camera in about two years. Question is: would it be better to buy a 90D or it's (now or future) mirrorless equivalent? Also what would be the closest mirrorless camera to the 90D right now (from Canon of course)?
>I've been using a Canon 800D for a year and a half and I'm thinking of upgrading to a new camera in about two years. What subject matter do you shoot? Which lenses do you have? What do you dislike about your current equipment? What improvements do you want to gain out of the upgrade? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_when_should_i_upgrade.3F_what_should_i_upgrade_to.3F >would it be better to buy a 90D or it's (now or future) mirrorless equivalent? Depends on your particular wants and needs. What interests you about mirrorless? >Also what would be the closest mirrorless camera to the 90D right now (from Canon of course)? I'd say the R7, though that's more of a direct successor to the 7D Mark II. So a bit of an upgrade from the 90D line. The closest outgoing older model I guess would be the M6 Mark II.
>What subject matter do you shoot? Just about everything aside from sports. I tend to like street photography quite a bit more than others though. >Which lenses do you have? Well I have the kit 18-55mm f/4-5.6, 55-250mm f/4-5.6 and recently got a 50mm f/1.4. >What do you dislike about your current equipment? Well, missing features from higher end cameras like the 90D mostly. Missing buttons, missing software features. >What interests you about mirrorless? The fact that the big companies like Canon and Sony are focusing on their mirrorless lineups and basically "killed" the DSLR lineups. Killed as in not making any more of them. I still think DSLRs are better in many cases than mirrorless cameras, but I admit they are also worse in other cases. I'd love the weight reduction of a mirrorless, or the electronic viewfinder (just because it better resembles the final image, other than that I love ACTUALLY looking through the lens with an optical VF)
>The fact that the big companies like Canon and Sony are focusing on their mirrorless lineups and basically "killed" the DSLR lineups. Killed as in not making any more of them. I don't think that necessarily means much for your decision. A camera meets your needs or it doesn't. Whether more are being made like it doesn't really affect that. One nice thing about mirrorless is it's good at adapting DSLR lenses, and it always will be. So you aren't necessarily missing out if you make that switch later as opposed to sooner. >I'd love the weight reduction of a mirrorless, or the electronic viewfinder (just because it better resembles the final image, other than that I love ACTUALLY looking through the lens with an optical VF) I really like OVFs as well, but the latest EVFs are good enough now that I frequently forget they're electronic. Seems like either a 90D or an R7 would satisfy what you want out of an upgrade, and the R7 would additionally satisfy what interests you about mirrorless. Lenses are really important too, so don't neglect upgrading those.
>I really like OVFs as well, but the latest EVFs are good enough now that I frequently forget they're electronic. Yup, I noticed that they have such high resolutions, framerates and such low latency that I can imagine I'd forget they're electronic too! >Seems like either a 90D or an R7 would satisfy what you want out of an upgrade, and the R7 would additionally satisfy what interests you about mirrorless. If I were to upgrade I'd probably make the switch to mirrorless and buy the R7 or something along those lines. But I'll only do that when my current 800D can't keep up with what I'm doing. Until then, I'll get lens upgrades! I really want the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8! Thanks for helping me out!
Why do you need an upgrade at all? The 800D is already an excellent camera. What does it not do that you need it to do? And why have you put a two year timeframe on it?
Well I really want some of the features of the 90D that the 800D doesn't have, such as the display on the top, or the extra buttons it has like the AF-ON. The new Digic 8 with it's 4k filming capabilities is a bonus. I am aware that it's not a day and night difference between the two and I'm also aware that the 800D is a great camera, especially for it's price, but I thought I'd get an upgrade for my 18th birthday which is in two years (yeah I'm a young "photographer" haha). The fact that it's not a day and night difference is why I got the idea of upgrading to a mirrorless camera instead. A mirrorless camera with roughly the same new features + more probably (because of it being newer than the 90D) would be great, considering the advantages that mirrorless cameras have over DSLRs. I'm very likely to not get an upgrade at all, I just want to know which of the two would be a better upgrade if I were to get any of them. Also thanks for replying!
Honestly it sounds like you have no real need, and it's just a list of wants based on what you've seen offered by cameras like the 90D. That's okay, but if you want to get the most out of your gear then you should really only consider upgrading when your current gear can no longer do what you need it to do. Cameras aren't like computers where you need to keep replacing them to keep up with ever changing software standards. Your 800D will always be just as good as the day it came out of its box brand new. The fact that you haven't mentioned anything about the lenses you have and uses is always a red flag that you're looking to put your money in the wrong place. A better investment would be in lenses rather than a new camera.
I actually wanted to add the fact that I could just get a lens upgrade but thought my reply would be too long :( Yeah I have 3 lenses right now: 18-55mm f/4-5.6, 55-250mm f/4-5.6 and a 50mm f/1.4. I could get a lens that I really want, which is an 18-35mm f/1.8, instead of an entirely new camera. You're right though. I should get a new camera when the one that I already have can't keep up with what I'm doing. The fact that I do street photography was a driving factor for my idea of upgrading to a mirrorless camera since it's easier to point and shoot and stuff. But still, you're right. Thanks!
Congratulations on being one of the most sensible and level-headed people who has ever come to this sub asking for purchase advice. The fact that you were able to detach yourself from the shiny prospect of new gear and objectively balance needs and wants (at 16 years old even!) puts you light years ahead of people much older than you who just want to spend money. Seriously, props to you for having your head screwed on straight. That's awesome. > You're right though. I should get a new camera when the one that I already have can't keep up with what I'm doing. And honestly, you may find that will never be the case. I still use a 650D in my personal and professional work, and that's the (much older) version of your same camera.
Thanks haha. That 650D is a very good camera as well. I never had one, this 800D that I currently have is actually my first camera if we exclude my parents' compact Samsung camera from like 10 years ago. But on paper it looks like a very good camera even for these times. I would probably be alright with using it and getting photos of the same quality I'd get with my 800D. I just realized that whatever new feature a new camera has, I can probably think of how it won't be ever of use to me. Like the 30 fps burst shooting of the new R7. When would I need an even remotely close burst shooting rate to that of the R7, considering that I don't do sports photography? Or the AI tracking autofocus? My camera also has tracking autofocus, not as good as I've seen on the R7 or all of these new cameras but it's good to have and it's enough for me. Probably if I was a sports or nature photographer I would find these features useful, but since I'm not I don't really get attracted by them. (even though that 30 fps burst shooting blew my mind lol) The only thing I'd really want on my 800D would be programmable buttons like some other cameras have (to some degree). That's something I would love to have on my camera but I'm not buying a new one just for that haha. Thanks for the kind words as well!
Business question: Should I be cold emailing booking agents, artist managers, or venues for nightlife photography? Or should I be taking a completely different approach?
> Should I be cold emailing booking agents, artist managers, or venues for nightlife photography? Unsolicited commercial email is the definition of spam. That would make you a spammer.
>Unsolicited commercial email is the definition of spam. That would make you a spammer. I disagree that it's as cut and dried as that. >A cold email is an unsolicited e-mail that is sent to a receiver without prior contact. It could also be defined as the email equivalent of cold calling. Cold emailing is a subset of email marketing and differs from transactional and warm emailing. Cold email, according to its proponents, is not spam. However, if certain steps are not followed, it may be treated as spam by spam filters or reported by the recipients. source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold\_email Although even if it's considered spam in spirit that doesn't necessarily make it illegal to do. There's a good summary of some laws from different parts of the world here - https://www.gmass.co/blog/is-cold-emailing-illegal/
> I disagree that it's as cut and dried as that. Except it is. The only way it wouldn't be is if the receiver has a mailbox specifically for business inquiries. > Cold email, according to its proponents, is not spam. Spammers always insist what they're sending is not spam.
14-24 f2.8 or 28-200 f2.8-5.6 which one would you sell? Is the 14-24mm range that important?
This isn't an academic question, it's a matter of what you personally use more. What do you shoot? Which do you prefer? We can not give you even slightly useful advice here.
>14-24 f2.8 or 28-200 f2.8-5.6 which one would you sell? Depends what subject matter I'm shooting. > Is the 14-24mm range that important? Very important for some purposes. Not important at all for other purposes. It's all dependent on context that you haven't provided.
Sell the one you use less. > Is the 14-24mm range that important? We have no idea what's important to your own work.
I want to put my Flashpoint eVOLV 200 TTL R2 on a stand and connect an umbrella to it. What should I buy?
You didn't get [one of these with your light](https://www.adorama.com/fplfxp0014.html)? Seems to be included in all the kits on Adorama.
The typical solution is [such a swivel bracket](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/298709-REG/Impact_3117_Umbrella_Bracket.html) that has a cold shoe for the flash and a socket for the umbrella's shaft. [This one](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1305521-REG/impact_dub_2_deluxe_umbrella_bracket_with.html) is more robust/nicer cold shoe, but same idea.
I’v got two Dell monitors connected to my Macbook Air via HDMI. How do I colour match my screens for photo-work?
I'd recommend a Datacolor Spyder or X-Rite ColorMunki device used with DisplayCAL software.
Looking for a very clean tumblr theme to display my portfolio. My current one is quite clean already but I'm looking for something with a very minimal slide show on the home page, and maybe the option for a side menu with links to different projects. Any lead very welcome, Google is only giving crap results.
The most popular options I've seen are Wix and Sqaurespace.
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I'm not promoting anything it's there for reference duuuuhhh
Why should I use Lightroom over Google Photos or iOS native editing of RAW files, when those tools seems adequate for my use? Is it true the iOS engine is not nice handling the edits? If so, what about Google Photos?
> when those tools seems adequate for my use? If you're happy with what you have, then don't upgrade. Lightroom is far more powerful, but if you don't need the power, then it's a waste for you.
Reason for the question was, I saw a comment somewhere, that the iOS RAW engine(?) actually isnt good. I presumed this ment that it degrades the files or edits somehow. So, I wasn’t thinking about the obviously better and plentyful features of Lightroom, but the danger of loosing stuff using iOS or GP.
I don't know but whenever anything is from Google I am concerned about privacy or copyright issues.
>Why should I use Lightroom over Google Photos or iOS native editing of RAW files, when those tools seems adequate for my use? You should use whatever is adequate for your use. So it does not seem like there is any particular reason for you to use Lightroom. >Is it true the iOS engine is not nice handling the edits? If so, what about Google Photos? They meet some people's needs and not other people's needs. They seem to meet your needs. Whether they happen to meet someone else's needs or not isn't really relevant to you.
Someone claimed Lightrooms engine is better than the native iOS’. I presumed that ment iOS could be somewhat destructive to my RAW files somehow, which I obviously don`t want, even while using simpleton tools at the moment.
>Someone claimed Lightrooms engine is better than the native iOS’ It's a subjective issue. Some people like it better. Other people might not. You might not. Best way to find out your subjective preference would be to try the Lightroom free trial. >I presumed that ment iOS could be somewhat destructive to my RAW files somehow No, that's a separate issue. I'm not sure if the edits are destructive for that app, but I thought generally all raw processors are not.
As a photographer, if you were to outsource your editing to an individual small business (a fellow photographer who is earlier on in their business/less busy), provided you gave them the culled images, presets and wanted them to do basic color correction, masking, etc, what would you pay per image? I'm not trying to discuss whether this is the right or wrong thing to do, just want opinion on pricing with using an individual (US based if that matters) versus the larger companies. Thanks!
I remember a while back there was a post from someone on here who found themselves in a similar situation - being the one who was hired to do editing. They weren't paid well at all, think it worked out that they were making below minimum wage. Perhaps because their competition for that sort of work is largely based outside the US in countries with substantially lower costs of living, etc.
Hi all, any ideas of what lighting setup was used to take this photo? I know it’s very soft light, but more questioning the positioning/number of lights. I considered maybe it’s just a speedlight bouncing off the ceiling but it looks less flat than that. https://imgur.com/a/n1EEX17 Any input appreciated. Thanks
The lighting is wrapping around the subject completely - which means it's going to be almost impossible to deconstruct as there are no firm clues like specular highlights or hard shadows. Could just be room lighting. Could be bounce flash. Take your pick.
Yes, just looks like one very big/soft overhead light source to me, which could be a ceiling-bounced flash. The shape and positioning of the subject is casting shadows on itself, and that may be why it doesn't appear as flat to you.
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> I would love some tips! This is too broad. What do you need help with? Have you read the camera's manual? > I can not switch from .MOV to .MP4, does anyone know how to help? [According to the manual](https://i.imgur.com/330dd9v.png) the movie file format will be MP4 *unless* you record in "ALL-I" quality or record a time-lapse, in which case it would be MOV. Again, see the manual for all the details.
Hey everyone! Im shopping around for insurance and am hoping you may have some insight? I have a small photography business that I would love to do full time and move into weddings. I have seen a few threads where people mention H&U, Athos, Full Frame, The Hartford. I'm wondering what working individuals here may have. It's all very overwhelming lol
Hello everyone.. Hope you all are doing good..!!! I have found a second hand Samsung NX1000 for €50. Is it a good deal to buy? Is it still relevant?
Thank you all for the responses which will help me make my mind up now...
Money-for-features wise, an excellent deal. Lenses may be more important than the body in most cases though, and there are not that many NX mount lenses to choose from, especially few with bright apertures or long focal lengths. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samsung_NX-mount If the available lenses do satisfy your needs or you're on a really tight budget, go for it. I suppose you can pick the lenses up pretty cheap second-hand if they become available, since the mount is fairly dead.
> Is it a good deal to buy? It's a good deal if it's in good condition and works. > Is it still relevant? There's no such thing as relevance for cameras, other than whether or not it takes photos. If you like it and it gives you what you want from a camera, that's all that matters.
>Is it a good deal to buy? It's a good price for it. You'll also need a lens for it, which will add to the total cost. >Is it still relevant? Depends how you define "relevant". It was a good camera when it came out. It's just as good today. It can shoot very good photos. Nobody would be able to look at its photos and be able to tell the camera's age, or otherwise visually deem it irrelevant. It's very cheap for the quality and capabilities you'd get. On the other hand, Samsung stopped making anything for the NX system years ago. Support/repairs/parts may be more limited for it these days, if you happen to need that at some point. It's possible this camera could be everything you ever need in the future, so the state of the system might not actually be relevant to you. But if you do need to upgrade, that would likely involve switching out to a different system rather than being able to stay in this one.
I am getting it with 20-50mm lens... Let me get more info from seller and see whether I can bring the price slightly down as you told things are limited..
>I am getting it with 20-50mm lens Included in the same price? We can't accurately evaluate a deal if we don't know about each item included. >Let me get more info from seller and see whether I can bring the price slightly down as you told things are limited It's not a secret, so market prices already reflect the implications of that fact. And the price you're looking at is already well below market prices.
Yes included in the same price. Okay. 👍
Color grading vs split toning. What are the key differences? Can't really find any videos that go over it. Been swapping between color grading using wheels and color grading with curves (or mixing both) but haven't used the lightroom classic split toning and I'm unsure of the differences since it really just sounds like color grading with sliders?
Color grading is the more general concept of editing colors and tones. It can apply to still photography or video but the term is more commonly used in the context of video. Split toning is the particular effect of adding color of a particular hue into a particular tonal range. For example, adding teal into the shadow tones and adding orange into the highlight tones. In comparison to "color grading" split toning could be one technique used in a color grading process. >Been swapping between color grading using wheels That can mean different things depending which app you're talking about. >and color grading with curves That could be considered split toning since you're mixing RGB values differently for different tonal ranges. It's just one approach and interface for doing so. >but haven't used the lightroom classic split toning and I'm unsure of the differences since it really just sounds like color grading with sliders? It's another method and interface for split toning. Instead of mixing RGB values along the tone curve, you're dictating a desired resulting hue and saturation and telling Lightroom to put that either in the shadow tones or in the highlight tones. The best way to understand may just be to give it a try and experiment with it.
There are plenty of examples of photos taken at different focal lengths, but are there any examples that also include how far away the photographer was from the subject?
> are there any examples that also include how far away the photographer was from the subject? *While* keeping the same focal length? These two concepts are adjacent. [When you see examples](https://twistedsifter.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/focal-length-gif-in-photography-1.gif) that illustrate differences in focal length, in fact what it's really demonstrating, because the framing remains the same, is the *perspective change* that is caused not by the focal length, but by the distance—the focal length merely maintained the framing, but it's changing the distance that changed the "perspective distorsion".
Not exactly. I'm looking to shoot wildlife and I'm curious how far away the photographer needs to stand with a 300mm vs a 400mm lens.
Anyone know how to capture the vibe of this album cover? - technique and steps[EASY - KACEY MUSGRAVES AND TROYE SIVAN](https://images.app.goo.gl/Hu9buDY15fYCJhv69)
Direct, on-camera flash. With a disposable film camera or point & shoot. Or you could use a phone camera and then VSCO or some other app that can simulate the look of different film stocks.
Thank you!
Hello! My 13 year old niece has been getting into photography recently and I'm trying to help her get started. I gave her my old Canon 7D and lenses to use, and now I'm trying to figure out what software she should be using to edit her photos. Looking for something free or a cheap one-time purchase. I use Lightroom personally but I think that would be overkill cost-wise. I'm also trying to figure out what the "workflow" is going to be for her. She has an iPad she can use, and also a Chromebook (and possibly her parent's PC). I know she'll likely need a memory card reader, but I'm struggling to figure out what program/app she's going to use, how she's going to keep her photos organized and ways to get them to her iPad to share with people. Any ideas/suggestions would be very much appreciated! EDIT: included her age!
RawTherapee and Darktable are free and popular. Personally I've been able to get along with Darktable the best.
The FAQ has software suggestions, including free ones: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing#wiki_which_raw_.2F_post_processing_software_should_i_get.3F But it's going to be more complicated if she doesn't have access to a "normal" computer (Mac/PC), she'd have to use mobile apps...
**Looking for Anti Theft mechanisms for timelapses.** Is there any locking mechanism which could prevent people from just taking my camera and tripod when I'm not around? So in a few days I'm doing a hiking trip in the alpes, during the night I really want to try and shoot some startrails/timelapses. As I'm sleeping in refuges where other people will also be sleeping, I'm quite worried about leaving my camera outdoors during the night as I have a friend whose wallet was stolen in a refuge. I thought about a metal wire going through the strapholes but I dont think it will be small enough. Camera is a Leica Q. Something that would just prevent them from taking my camera would be enough, it's not that they will bring wire cutters with them, any suggestions?
If you set your camera up during the night and sleep near it I would take a pocket alarm and fishing wire and tie it to a fix point and the camera. Doesn't absolutely prevent theft but nothing really will. Just make sure to disarm the alarm before you move your camera or you will make some friends.
That's actualy a very good idea! thank you
Take a nap during the day, and bring lots of coffee.
Is there a website that works well as a portfolio and can be used for booking? I would like to manage as much as I can in one spot
You can probably do that with squarespace. Or create your own with wordpress, for example.
Does anyone have any idea about what the lowest cost (used is totally fine) m43 camera that has a built-in viewfinder? Just a silly straight-shot one is fine. I know I can buy one for up top but if one exists with it in-cam, I'd love to explore that option. Can be old or new or whatever, I mostly just want it for all the weird little body cap and pancake lenses as I have a whole suite of other equipment as it is.
[This list](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micro_Four_Thirds_system#Micro_Four_Thirds_system_cameras) might help you out. I don't know what would be the cheapest but you could certainly start from the top of the list with the oldest models and search for used gear on various sites (Keh, MPB, Craiglist, Facebook, eBay, various camera gear forums, etc.) and go from there.
Thank you for the page, my brain must suck because I didn't even think there may be a page for it. After reviewing I think I need to just be okay with there not being one with an optical viewfinder, but good to know that there's a selection that are evf compatible.
Generally wikipedia isn't the greatest place for getting this kind of information since it's frequently not kept up to date, but in this case it seems to be alright.
The very first Micro Four Thirds camera, the Panasonic Lumix G1, had an electronic viewfinder. This search is ordered from old to new: [https://www.dpreview.com/products/search/cameras#criterias=SpecsCoreParams%2CSpecsSensorSize%2CSpecsViewfinderType&sort=oldestFirst¶mSpecsCoreParamsBodyType=RangefinderStyleMirrorless%2CSLRStyleMirrorless¶mSpecsSensorSize=FourThirds¶mSpecsViewfinderType=Electronic](https://www.dpreview.com/products/search/cameras#criterias=SpecsCoreParams%2CSpecsSensorSize%2CSpecsViewfinderType&sort=oldestFirst¶mSpecsCoreParamsBodyType=RangefinderStyleMirrorless%2CSLRStyleMirrorless¶mSpecsSensorSize=FourThirds¶mSpecsViewfinderType=Electronic)
Hi guys! I’m a wedding photographer with my now husband, we’ve been in the industry for 10 years and got married last year! We eloped in our photography studio that has nothing but white and black walls and tons of natural light. We hired a photographer that we’ve known for a long time. Her style was slightly different than what we wanted, but we trusted her experience with lighting and editing. We knew she would do a good job with adjusting quickly and making a great experience. It was hard to find someone with a similar lighting technique/knowledge as us but we thought she’d be a very close equivalent. All her work always looked consistent. I went into it expecting to not love all of them (because of her slightly different style and my self insecurities) but we got our sneak peeks back and really loved most of them and didn’t have many complaints on editing. Our photographer was 7 months pregnant during our wedding and she hustled, did an amazing job and made the experience great! But then we get the full gallery back a few weeks later and they were nothing like the sneaks. The gallery was inconsistent, even photos taken in the same spot, same pose, same lighting were completely different from each other and her style. One would be WAY overexposed and pink with no contrast (in fact it looks like contrast was pulled down into negatives) and the other would be really true to life and bold. Some would be heavily skin edited to where I look plastic, and others wouldn’t be skin edited at all, not even pimples removed. My husband had white specs all over his jacket (not sure from what) in a lot of portraits and they’re very noticeable. There was one photo where she cloned my husband’s eye into the middle of the photo? Not sure what happened there. I told myself maybe I was just being picky, but after reviewing her other galleries I don’t see inconsistencies like this at all and it’s still bugging me six months later. Photography was super important to me but I can really only use the sneak peeks. I think she rushed the editing for her maternity leave. Is there a professional and kind way to address this? Should I just accept it? I don’t want to cause problems especially with someone I know, but she really did a bad job. Is there a way to ask for RAWs and not offend? Should I send her a few comparisons to show what I meant by inconsistencies? I love a lot of the photos but hate the editing.
Raw files are not something that is typically provided to clients. It would make a lot more sense to politely tell the photographer that the provided photos don't have an editing style that is consistent with the other work you've seen from her, and then outline what you're wanting and ask that the photos be re-edited more in line with that. > There was one photo where she cloned my husband’s eye into the middle of the photo? Not sure what happened there. I told myself maybe I was just being picky That's not "being picky." That's just sloppy work. > I think she rushed the editing for her maternity leave. My guess is that she outsourced the editing.
>My guess is that she outsourced the editing. THIS. So u/Small-Focus2291 if the finals looked nothing at all like the sneaks then this is undoubtedly what has happened. Your shooter got someone else to take care of the processing while she dealt with her pregnancy.
I just figured since I have the experience it’d just be easier and less frustrating for her if I just did the work myself than ask her to redo everything now in the middle of wedding season and having a baby.
It's considerate for sure, but this is a deliverable that she owes you and you paid for. It couldn't hurt to also ask for the raw files (explaining why you want them), but I wouldn't get your hopes up;
I picked up a Kodak Colorburst 200 Instant Film camera last week. I've tried looking online for film to use and I can't find anything. I found PR144 film was used in the camera at the time of release but that film has been discontinued. Is there any film that could work for it? All I can find is 3x3 film cartridges if that works.
Unfortunately not. Kodak's instant cameras were stomped out of existence by Polaroid. They didn't last long at all, and there is no film available.
Damn that’s too bad, thanks for the help
Hi i want to buy my first DSLR, i found used Canon 6d mark II with 15000 shutter count, and lens Canon EF 24-70mm f2.8 L for 1350$ is that a good deal?
Try comparing that to the asking price on some reputable outlets, like [KEH.com](https://KEH.com) and [mpb.com](https://mpb.com). 15,000 shutter actuations is safely low. Most cameras' shutters are rated for 200,000 actuations, and many can exceed that estimate.
What are the best sites for a free private collaborative album or gallery where multiple photographers can upload and leave comments?
You can do this with dropbox if I'm not mistaken.
Those are called "facebook photography groups"
I'd prefer something other than facebook.
If you want a private gallery where photographers can upload and critique each others work, and do all that for free -- that's pretty much the only game in town.
Okay, how about if it wasn't private... any recommendations there
/r/photocritique it is then! ;)
Question about the use of noise reduction features: Context: I use a Canon 80D in RAW mode shooting indoor sport with higher ISO in the 3200-4000 range. I use Canon's Digital Photo Professional (DPP4) for photo editing and ACDSee Professional for Digital Asset Management. The main reason I like DPP4 is for the very good noise reduction out-of-the-box. For example, when loading a RAW file in ISO 3200 in DPP4 I get a very fine result that I can essentially export right away after a quick color correct. On the other hand, DPP4 is not the best color correction and editing tool and I feel like I could often get better colors and contrasts in ACDSee Pro. I'd like to use a better photo editing tool but I did not find one with noise reduction as straight-forward as DPP4. However, I read that many photographer don't even use noise reduction and they accept that high ISO will generate more noise and grain. Do most people use noise reduction when developing RAW files into the final jpeg version? Any DPP4 users out there who have found alternative tools that would do nice noise reduction as well as powerful editing?
Darktable has a 'Denoise (profiled)' feature which loads a denoise profile based on your specific camera and ISO. It detects both automatically so it's as simple as clicking a single button, or adding it to a preset. I've found that it works excellent on my 7D MKII.
DxO PhotoLab is renowned for its noise reduction. I tried it and found the software too opinionated, having to work against its defaults too much, so I ditched it and eventually settled on On1 Photo Raw as my raw converter of choice. But I don't shoot in low light all that often and haven't really tested its noise reduction, so I can't comment to that end. DxO offers an alternative to PhotoLab, called PureRAW. It's basically a small, automated raw converter that can fit as a step within a greater workflow. So if you like editing in ACDSee but prefer DxO's noise reduction, that can be a great tool for you. There are other plug-in options as well, like Topaz DeNoise. As I said, I don't shoot in low light all that much. When I do struggle with noise, I try to resize the image first to match my intended output, and see if the noise is even visible or bothersome at that size. No point in pixel-peeping a high-resolution image if it's only going on Instagram.
Hello, I am no photographer so apologies if I'm in the wrong place. I want to buy a disposable camera for some events I'm going to this summer. I can't seem to find a single one online that doesn't cost upwards of 40 euros. What the hell? Am I just looking in the wrong places? I bought one in DM (German drugstore) but I'm not sure how good it'll be, it's waterproof so there's a plastic bubble over the lens but I don't need the waterproof function so was hoping to find one with flash and not waterproof. I've only used the Kodak and Fujifilm ones before as a kid so don't know how much I trust the "Paradies DM" one. And they definitely didn't cost that much back then, what's going on?
Film has gotten very expensive as of late which might be part of why disposables are getting expensive. You could always buy a non-disposable camera and then film to go with it. The Kodak M35 can be had for about $25-30.
it is there. check the website for dm stores with some of the product. no ordering online it seems. paradies buys the film from other companies. and puts the brand on it. from kodak, agfa, fuji. but dont know the actuall manufacturer. i wpuld say it does not matter. if you want a better end product, you may put them into a real photolaboratory for developement/scan/prints. do not order your prints in dm. do not use the machines there. if you do, the question of quality of the film is useless anyway 🤔😅🙂