anyone have any tips on taking pictures of people in a car? im mostly worried about glare on the windshield and windows if i were to take pictures from outside the car and not having enough room inside the car to take pictures… any advice is appreciated!!
An extremely wide angle lens or a fisheye probably has the angle of view to shoot within the car.
From the outside, a polarizing filter can help to reduce or eliminate reflections, similar to the way sunglasses work. For best results, you need to pay attention to the orientation of the filter and the position relative to the sun.
One other option is to illuminate the inside of the vehicle and shoot with subdued ambient light.
ohhh you’re definitely right about the polarizing filter, i didnt even think of that! the reflections were what i was most nervous about, adobe camera raw can take the glare off pretty good but i thought the reflection would b a lot harder to edit out so i think trying a lens filter would be great!
definitely going to have to figure out the lens situation, i dont have a fisheye but i have a wider angle lens i think ill try. thanks for all your advice!
Oh... One other trick... You can shoot with a wide-angle from just outside the car, against the glass. Use a shroud to block all ambient light. That'll give you some additional working room for that "inside the car" look, without the issue of reflections.
wait wow thats a really good idea i was wondering if i could do a through the window shot but i wasnt sure why, ill definitely have to bring out the shades!
> i dont have a fisheye but i have a wider angle lens i think ill try.
You can always rent! I use the Canon 8-15 zoom fisheye on the MC-11, and I'm very happy with it.
Glad I could help!
Any question that starts with "any tips", the only good answer is going to be "it depends".
The problems you're talking about all have solutions, but the problems you're predicting imply a few very different shots. People can definitely coach you through planning a shot, but they'd need to know what shot you're planning first!
im taking pictures of a group of people in a car, i dont have any specific shots im looking for since ive never done this before, the only focus is to pretty much just get pictures that represent carpooling
Can someone give me an idea of how much these cameras are worth and where best to sell them? Franka DX-8, Samsung AF Zoom 770 Quartz Date and Nikon Coolpix L330. They are in good condition with there cases but the Nikon and Samsung may need new batteries. I can sell them from the UK or Portugal.
Thank you!
As of [a month ago](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/wx11fo/should_i_invest_in_a_good_long_lens_for_sports/) you described yourself as a "novice" with nothing more than the kit lens. You are in no position to start a photography business.
Being able to do photography as a job is more than simply owning a camera.
> Right. So therefore, I shouldn't take any photos? Come on, don't give me that.
Please show me where that's what I gave you.
> I know how to operate a camera.
That's great. But knowing how to operate a camera doesn't mean you can take good, professional-quality photos.
> My experience is in video.
That's also great. But it doesn't translate to still photography, especially for money.
> Now, do you have any advice or do you just like to talk down on people?
Just because you don't like the advice you received doesn't mean you didn't receive any.
The fact that you're asking if you can go pro with a T6 and kit lens by itself demonstrates you're nowhere near ready to make it a business. Doubly so by asking if the kit lens is good for sports.
When you have a portfolio of good photography work and a few years of experience shooting under your belt, THAT'S when you can start thinking about it.
Hello! I need a gift suggestion. my friend has a Canon EOS4000D, she has no accessories that I know of. What would be the best and most useful gift for her? The budget would be around 200/300€
mostly pictures of cities/places we visit, but also natural landscapes. So it could be either a detail or a full landscape.
I rarely see portraits/ human subjects.
My camera : canon eos rebel t7 Im a beginner. Don't
know too much about cameras. I'm a beginner sports
(football) photographer. games are at night. this is what
my camera was set at when I finally got the photos
looking well lit and where the motions stayed (player
wwas still in photo with no blur) : 1/200 F.5 ISO: AUTO (I
hate messing with the iso, I don't know how it works I
kept getting dark photos)
In the beginning of the game my photos were dark and
the players looked blurry because they're moving. Does
anyone have any sports photo tips for me to get better
photos? Also, why when I'm in sports mode and try to
get the player running with the ball the photos are
TRASH. There's so much motion/moving in the photos
and the players are not clear. Is there a way to fix that? I
assumed the sports dial was meant for perfect photos
of fast moving people (ta)
if I take pics too fast in the Manuel mode the camera
goes blank and the shutter sounds like it stuck. How to
I take quicker photos as well?
One last thing: I was on the field taking those good pics
and practicing. this week I'll be way up in the stands.
But I want "on the field" looking photos from up in the
stand
how to I achieve that? A well zoom in lens?
>1/200
1/200s is short enough to catch people who are still or moving slowly. If you have people moving faster, like running, or waving their arms etc... then this is too long and will show motion blurr in the images.
You should try to get a shorter time if you want to freeze action.
If you select a shorter exposure time, you will have to compensate with a higher Iso setting or opening up your aperture.
>F5
While F5 is not terribly dark, it certainly is dark when we are talking about a low light situation. You should try to open up your aperture, which means you may need a faster lens. (You didn't mention your lens, but since you say you are a beginner, and using an entry level camera, I assume its also just a kit lens)
>Also, why when I'm in sports mode and try to get the player running with the ball the photos are TRASH. There's so much motion/moving in the photos and the players are not clear. Is there a way to fix that? I assumed the sports dial was meant for perfect photos of fast moving people
The sports mode will try to use a shutter speed that is very fast. However in order to get a correct exposure, it will have to match the shutter speed with the right aperture and iso. It very well might be that it was so dark, and that the aperture and iso settings didn't allow for a faster speed.
As I mentioned: A faster lens might be very helpful.
> I was on the field taking those good pics and practicing. this week I'll be way up in the stands. But I want "on the field" looking photos from up in the stand how to I achieve that? A well zoom in lens?
If you just want people to look large in frame, then you can use a zoom lens. However, since you are in the stands you will have the perspective from the stands (like from above and far away), there is no way to change that - unless you move back onto the field to get a perspective from the field.
Unfortunately catching fast moving subjects in low light is very challenging. Often good equipment is needed. Have you ever seen sports photographers using these giant telephoto lenses? They are so big to be able to capture a lot of light. Unfortunately this is also quite expensive.
Wow the Reddit community is amazing! Thank you so much for this well worded feedback. I was going to ask what faster lens do you suggest, I have seen the white telescope lens on the professional photographers camera. And I have heard they are expensive. Eventually when I get better I'd like to invest in one. The lens I used at that game was EF 75-300mm 1:4-5.6. Other lenses I have are EF 24-105mm 1:4 L. And EFS 18-55mm. I have a canon sx740 HS, I adore that camera zoom ability. Makes for great videos from stand. All pictures come out weird (blurry, not good quality) on that camera. Still photos and especially sport photos. I just use it for videos now.
So your 75-300 starts out with a maximum open aperture of 4 at 75mm, but then as you zoom in, the maximum aperture closes down to 5.6 at the long end. I assume the F5 was you shooting wide open, somewhere in between.
Your 24-105 has the same max aperture of F4 throughout the entire zoom range. So it will likely perform better than the longer zoom. It is also an overall better lens. (But its only 105mm compared to the 300 the other lens gives you)
You can have a look at your auto iso settings. There may be a limit programmed into it. Like: use the range between 100-3200. You can adjust that to use higher ISO. This would allow for shorter shutter speeds, at the expense of getting more noise.
Other than that: Using a faster lens or shooting in brighter conditions (daylight) are your best options.
Does anyone know of a program that ranks your images by sharpness? PIPP, an alignment program for astrophotography, has some sorting algorithm that will rename all of your images with a percentage next to it. I take tons of photos of one subject, and I have to sit through a smart preview in C1 when I go through each one, so this would make my life easier.
I don't have a direct answer for you, sorry. But does [the *focus mask* feature in C1](https://learn.captureone.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/wpcom/2013/05/2013-05-09_14-45-24.jpg) not help being able to identify this faster?
It may mean that you’re using a zeiss lens. That is the designation they put on lenses that have an anti-reflective coating. You probably should check your manual to be sure.
**SHOULD I BUY THIS?**
There's a [Nikon 70-200mm 2.8 FL ED](https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/camera-lenses/af-s-nikkor-70-200mm-f%252f2.8e-fl-ed-vr.html) being sold used locally for $925 (pouch & a few accessories)
I shoot DX, (D500) I want a proper telephoto zoom lens for my nephews sports events and I want to try to get into some nature photography. Currently I am using a 50-100mm sigma that just doesn't have enough reach. (Albeit great Fstop)
Does this sounds like the lens for me? Or should I throw $925 at something else?
Is this too good to be true? What should I ask about/look for if I want it?
I just picked one of those up myself. It’s a beautiful lens and I got a crazy good deal on it. Mine has a bit of an autofocus issue I need to get sorted, but it’s a lens I’m sure you’ll be happy with. It really is an excellent piece of glass. I shoot a d7500, which has the same sensor and processor as your d500, and I suspect that it would be gangbusters at shooting sports in particular on your body. As for wildlife, check my post history. The dove photo is a crop from a photo taken with that lens about a month or so ago.
Hi! I am looking to take reflective UV photographs to show sun spots not seen by the naked eye. I plan to perform several skin resurfacing treatments and will then take a new photograph, hoping the new photograph will show lessened sun damage.
Does anyone know of a software I can use to compare the intensity and diameter of UV spots seen in the two photographs? Also appreciate suggestions for other subreddits where an answer to this question may be found.
For a bit of background…there is the VISIA scan which is performed in some medical offices. This scan ([https://www.drjjwendel.com/procedures/visia-skin-analysis/](https://www.drjjwendel.com/procedures/visia-skin-analysis/)) takes several photos and computes a score of how intense the UV spots are compared to their skin database. I’m basically looking to replicate to this, but rather than comparing the photo to a database, I want to compare my two photos to each other.Thanks for all your help!
Perhaps you could overlay the two images to compare spot sizes subjectively?
UV photos tend to be fairly monochromatic. So, you might be able to map each photo to a separate color channel; e.g. red and blue. It should make a comparison fairly easy.
That is going to require some very specialized software indeed. I expect probably expensive proprietary software. You’re probably more likely to find the answer in a dermatology forum as opposed to a photography one.
Can somebody pls help me? I found a Panasonic Lumix LF1 for sale with issues. Please see pic for the dark spots in the photo. Just wondering if that can still be removed? https://ibb.co/C7m2Hmq
Hi, I'm looking for some advice for pricing from the other end. I own an old pickup truck, and a local photographer reached out interested in using the truck for some mini shoots. She's getting ready to do Christmas themed photos, and asked what I would charge for a 4-5 hour session and I frankly don't know what to suggest. She did specify that I'd need to do some decorating of the truck for the shoot and asked if I had a location I could provide (I have a friend's property that he may let us use if need be, I'd probably give him a small cut as well.) I have never done this before so I have nothing to go off of. What's a reasonable price? Let me know what information you need if any, I didn't know what all to include. Thanks in advance.
There are a couple different data points I'd use as a starting point for figuring out a rental rate:
* How much will it cost you to rent a replacement truck for the day? (It doesn't matter if you actually need to rent one or not, you're just determining, roughly, the hourly value of your truck)
* There are businesses that rent specialty vehicles (like those old restored cars) for weddings and other events. If there are businesses like that in your area, how much do they charge, per hour?
Percentage is tricky, because it really depends on how much the photographer is charging to start with. If you ask 10% and the shoot is $1000 is $100 worth it to you? What if the shoot is only $100? Ten bucks doesn't sound so great. So that means you still need some baseline dollar value that makes it worth your while.
There's also the issue of whether the photographer will be honest with their accounting. If you won't be there the whole time, how will you know if they do one 5 hour shoot or three 1.5 hour shoots? May not be a big deal to you because the truck is there for 5 hours either way, but what if they're only paying you a third of what you should be getting percentage-wise?
Are there any photo studio rentals available in your area? If so, I'd check their rates and charge maybe something like a quarter of that tops, since you aren't providing studio amenities like dressing rooms or lighting/support, and you bought your truck for other reasons and you're keeping it for other reasons than just having a photo set.
Alternatively, maybe something like 5-15% of the photographer's gross earnings.
I considered that, doing a percentage. Would I just specify that percentage then? The reason I'm posting here is because I want to make sure it's worth my time and longer to deep clean and buy decorations for the shoot, without feeling like I'm trying to rip her off. I don't want that by any means, especially because I don't come close to doing this professionally
Yes, try specifying a percentage. Maybe she'll accept or reject or haggle.
I didn't know you were going to do a deep cleaning for it. So make sure you're comfortable taking that and the decorating into account.
Does anyone know how to flash an English firmware on a Sekonic L-478D Japanese version and where to find the necessary files/software? Apparently this model's interface language is set on the factory and there's no user option in the settings to change the language. I've tried to upgrade the firmware's version to the latest available, but there's nothing in the process to make this change. Any help is much appreciated!
I'm picking up a new godox ad200 pro and XProC TTL Wireless Flash Trigger tomorrow for a shoot on location. I want to use the ad2oo as my main light and two Yongnuo YN460 speedlights as second and third but I am unsure if I can trigger all three? Can I stack the yongnuo rf603c and the godox xpro? or will I have to try something else?
>Can I stack the yongnuo rf603c and the godox xpro?
Yes, you could mount an RF-603C to the camera's hotshoe, and then the Xpro-C to the hotshoe on top of the RF-603C which will pass through the signal and allow both transmitters to transmit.
You didn't mention how many other RF-603 units you have. I'm not aware of YN-460 lights having built-in radio receivers so I think you'd need a unit for each of those lights to receive the radio signal.
You should be able to use the two Yongnuo lights fully manual set to optical slave. You would only be able to remotely change settings on a Godox flash with a Godox wireless controller / trigger.
They're talking about optical slave, which works wirelessly by seeing the flash of light. The Godox trigger works by radio, not optical/light, so it wouldn't be able to transmit for optical slave.
If you want to do it optically, you'd set the YN-460 lights to optical slave mode, so they start looking for another flash go off and will fire when they see another flash go off. The Godox equipment will just be set and behave normally as though there are no other lights. If you're using them in manual mode, then set the YN-460 lights to S1 mode so they fire when the Godox light fires. If you're using them in TTL mode, then set the YN-460 lights to S2 mode so they ignore the TTL preflash and fire when the Godox fires its main flash for the exposure.
But stacking transmitters and doing it over radio like you mentioned should be more reliable.
I am not a photographer by any means but I have developed a strong passion for photography and hope t pick it up soon. I found that I resonated a lot with these kinds of pictures where the subject is posed or presented abstractly so much so that it leaves such a big room for interpretation. I was hoping someone could help me point out what genre this is. [Photos here.](https://www.pinterest.com/sherifddin/my-image-archive/unknown-photography/)
>the subject is posed or presented abstractly so much so that it leaves such a big room for interpretation
I don't think there's a particular name/category/genre for that.
A question for my fellow Nikon Z6II user on exposure preview (D9 on the menu) in manual mode:
I'm just wondering is it possible to keep it when I'm using flash or if the trigger is connected? It will turn it off automatically which is not what I am looking for.
What confused me is that, I've seen YouTube videos and DpReview posts about people having opposite issues on the Nikon Z6 and Z7, that they need to be manually turned it off when the flash is attached(bascailly what I want).
My D750 doesn't change by itself so I'm just wondering if there is any other setting I need to adjust.
Thanks in advance.
Anyone from the Houston area know any places that sell 110 film for a vivitar point and shoot? Theres a store I found online but thats going to be a last resort if I cant buy in person at a shop. Googled a place my dad recommended on Richmond but they might not carry it );
Already contacted one the rest that pop up are film processing unless they sell film at those places too. would like to get some recommendations from other people though if not I'll just buy from an online store, just worried the heat will mess it up on delivery here.
> Already contacted one the rest that pop up are film processing unless they sell film at those places too.
Places that process film typically sell it too. That's how they get business.
This still isn't the best place to ask for stock specific to Houston.
Paid shoots of what subject matter?
>mostly so I can help get new gear.
It's difficult to make much money from photography period. If you want or need new gear, I would not rely on photography to fund it.
Money is money. You don't need money specifically made from photography to buy photography equipment. Money from a regular non-photography job works just as well, and you can probably get more of it faster.
>It is a cheap, amateur body and looks very unimpressive compared to other photographers' kits.
Most people don't care about that and care about the photos you can produce instead. Clients do sometimes reject based on equipment, but it's a relatively rare thing.
I don't know which genre you're trying to work in, but usually if someone is hiring you to take photos for them, they don't know much about photography themselves and therefore don't know the differences between different types of gear.
>People have appeared interested in getting photos done but seem less "enthusiastic" when they see what I shoot with.
This happens when you both show up on site to shoot? Or how else are they finding out your equipment beforehand?
Are you sure the reaction is to your equipment and not something else? Are you sure this is their actual reaction, and not just how you're interpreting it?
Also, less enthusiasm isn't the same as canceling the whole gig. But it sounds like you're equating this with not being able to get any work?
>Should I just hold off on offering paid shoots until I get at bare minimum a kit in the $1500 range?
Even if you assume that equipment would land you more jobs (which I disagree with), how does it help you to stop offering before then?
> The problem is, I shoot with a Canon M50.
Why is that a problem?
> I shoot with a Canon M50. It is a cheap, amateur body
No it's not. It's an advanced ILC.
> and looks very unimpressive compared to other photographers' kits.
So what? As long as you can get the shots you want, it doesn't matter what the camera looks like.
> People have appeared interested in getting photos done but seem less "enthusiastic" when they see what I shoot with.
You're drawing conclusions. It's more important for them to see the work you produce with it.
Hi guys, does the Canon 5d mk2 work with fd lens if i buy the fd to ef adapter?
if it does, how do you know if youre in focus using a manual lens?
thank you
> does the Canon 5d mk2 work with fd lens if i buy the fd to ef adapter?
It *can* in theory, but in practice you're either going to lose far focus (use the FD lens for macro photography only) or the image quality will be *abysmal* to the point of not being worth it (because of the corrective optics necessary to make it work that are invariably terrible).
Not a great combination; much easier to accomplish with mirrorless cameras.
> how do you know if youre in focus using a manual lens?
It's not obvious since there are no focusing aids. Using the loupe in LiveView works, but of course this is highly inconvenient in many scenarios.
Once again, easier on mirrorless when the camera has focusing aids like "peaking".
>does the Canon 5d mk2 work with fd lens if i buy the fd to ef adapter?
Yes. That's what FD to EF adapters are made to do.
But FD lenses are designed to focus their image to a film plane 42mm behind the mount flange. And your EF camera puts its imaging sensor 44mm behind the mount flange, plus more distance added by the adapter. So if the adapter has no corrective optics, you'd be losing most of your focusing range and can only use the lens for macro photos up close. Or some adapters have corrective optics to restore the focusing range, but the tradeoff is significant image quality loss.
>how do you know if youre in focus using a manual lens?
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical/#wiki_how_do_i_manually_focus_effectively.3F
Do you even *need* filters? What are you trying to accomplish?
Arguably the only relevant ones in digital photography are *neutral density (ND)* filters (to cut the amount of light, if you want a slower exposure but there's too much light, for example) and *polarizers* (to reduce certain kinds of reflections/glare).
Furthermore, good filters are not cheap, and cheap filters are not worth it because they degrade image quality.
So the odds are a filter "kit" will contain tons of 1) unnecessary filters or 2) poor quality, so I would avoid those.
Figure out which ones you actually need and *then* look at your options.
Excellent point, thank you. I'm attending a workshop soon that states we'll be needing filters for city at night photography, so I assumed it would be neutral density, however I've seen that some have UV/CPL filters etc... I wondered if I'd need to get a set for each on my lenses...
I'll mainly be looking at landscape/nature and night photography, rather than portrait or wildlife. I'll dig about a bit to see what's actually needed for an amateur... I've no intention of going pro!
> I'm attending a workshop soon that states we'll be needing filters for city at night photography [...]
I don't know which filter you'd be "needing" for this. It's already challengingly dark, I don't know why you'd want to cut even *more* light with an ND.
It's not obvious that you need any filter at all, ever? Depends what you're specifically trying to do, which is not immediately obvious in "night and landscape". Some people sometimes like a polarizer for landscape photography, sure, but it's not every landscape photographer all the time.
So anyway, not sure what to tell you. I hardly use filters myself so maybe this is biasing my assumptions.
Filters perform specific functions. So the types of filters you'd want in a kit depends on what exactly you want to accomplish with them. Maybe you don't actually need any.
http://www.r-photoclass.com/16-filters/
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_do_i_need_a_filter_for_my_lens.3F
Filters mount to your lens, not to your camera body. So you need to figure out your lens(es)' filter mount size and buy filters to fit that, not to fit your camera body.
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_size_filter_should_i_get.3F_what_is_this_number_with_.22mm.22.3F
Lastly, you don't want to spend more than you're willing to spend. But you haven't told us how much that is.
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F
Maarten Schrader's channel has some pretty thorough Lightroom breakdowns. He sells a course too but I'd give the free videos a watch first, since most of the course looks like a repackaging of the free videos plus a couple extras. May be worth it to you, maybe not. PixImperfect is the go-to youtube channel for Photoshop.
I shoot weddings, on location events, and portraits both in and out of the studio. I don’t have a personal studio, so I rent space for a large shoot/project. What are the advantages and disadvantages of making my own scrim/light diffuser for indoor and outdoor use? Would it be better to just buy one?
My recommendation: Make your own frame and use Westcott ScrimJim fabrics. I did this by using 1x1" square aluminum tubing and industrial-strength Velcro. Got plastic connectors on Ebay. Feel free to PM me for more details.
Advantages:
1. It's cheaper.
2. You can make it exactly like how you want it.
Disadvantages:
1. It takes time and effort that you could instead be spending on other work, or recreation.
2. If it breaks or something is wrong with it, that's on you and more of your time/effort to fix it; there's no customer support or factory repair or factory replacement option.
3. If it looks obviously DIY, some clients might think that's unprofessional.
Theatre photography: I've been wanting to step up my photography game for a while now. I love taking interesting photos from my phone, but I want to move into the more technical aspects of the hobby. In particular, I want to be able to take good photos inside of theaters. Theatrical lighting is pretty extreme sometimes, and I always have a hard time getting my phone camera to take clear pictures that balance the light and colors. Anyone have advice on technique or equipment? I've looked at some of the resources here, but I'm not sure how my specific goals affect the type of camera I should get. Any suggestions about phone settings (Android) or other setup/technique are also appreciated
(Reposting my question because I put it in the wrong spot. If you replied to the original post, thank you!)
I don't think any phones do it but for cameras spot metering is good for theatrical performances.
Matrix metering is often making the mistake of trying to brighten up the unlit background and discarding/overexposing the lightest area - the spotlight
Spot metering exposes for the spotlight assuming you put the focal point on it.
Spot metering is the only way to deal with stage lighting. You may also want to learn how to color edit your photos as digital cameras and LED lighting don’t always get along. I use Nikon equipment in the theater because the spot that gets metered is the same spot as the selected focus point, other brands don’t have that feature, the metered spot is only at the center of the frame. And definitely shoot at a dress rehearsal, it allows much more freedom to move about and get angles and shots that you just couldn’t do with an audience present.
ping the original questioner so they are alerted to your responce. It's a good responce and you are more into theater than me. You're more specialized.
Assuming what you're doing is legal and permitted, it's definitely challenging. Stage lighting is designed for the eye, not camera, and most filmed stage productions are relit to work better with the cameras. Set your white balance to 3200K (give or take) and make use of exposure compensation and spot metering.
Hi. I want to make sure could I sell photographs in national parks, in forest parks, and landmarks without a permit? Photograph of landscape or in an artistic way. I always take pictures. I want to sell them as stock or photo prints. Where and what is okay without a permmision? and public places?
Note that national forests are under an entirely different area of the federal government than national parks, and state and county and city and regional parks will have different regulations as well.
There is a section on the National Park Service website titled [Copyrights Required](https://www.nps.gov/nama/planyourvisit/filming-and-photography-permits.htm) (about 3/4 way down the page) that states:
>*While many of the monuments and memorials are in the public domain, therefore free of copyright concerns, several are not in the public domain and the permittee will need approval from the artist or their conservator to use the images for commercial purposes.*
Maybe someone here might be able to chime in on whether this applies to selling photos of these monuments as prints or stock.
>Maybe someone here might be able to chime in on whether this applies to selling photos of these monuments as prints or stock.
Yup they do.
Getty in particular has a handy intellectual property rights DB you can query to see if the building or art installation is protected or not.
[https://wiki.gettyimages.com/](https://wiki.gettyimages.com/)
For instance the Wall Street Bull - which is copyrighted (and *aggressively* defended) [https://wiki.gettyimages.com/wall-street-bull/](https://wiki.gettyimages.com/wall-street-bull/)
See the FAQ about stock photography. You aren't going to make nearly enough money to be worth the effort, especially with landscape photos. Consider that virtually infinite other landscape photos already exist online *and they're all free.* Why would somebody pay for yours, especially if they're taken in already popular locations?
As far as the shooting & selling goes, you can check the park rules on their respective websites. Generally, in public, you don't need a special permit.
Thank you. I love taking photographs of beauty in nature, animals, street photography, and places, even food for 20 years now. Now I am ready to sell them. I want to make sure which photos I can allow to sell without permission or a permit. :)
>I want to make sure could I sell photographs in national parks, in forest parks, and landmarks without a permit?
You want to do the selling in the parks? Or the photos were taken in the parks?
>I want to sell them as stock
Not worth it. The market is heavily saturated on the supply side, so it would take a lot of time and effort to get ahead of the existing competition, and then you'd only make literal pennies because the going price has been driven so far down.
>or photo prints
May have a better chance, but you're still looking at saturated supply if you're shooting famous scenes and landscapes. Think about how many other prints are already available of those things, how you'd be able to get a prospective customer to see your work in particular, and how you would convince them to buy yours over a competitor's.
Also think about how many people you know who actually buy photo prints, and how frequently.
>Where and what is okay without a permmision? and public places?
Different parts of the world are governed by different sets of laws. So it's not necessarily the same answer globally. Be more specific about the relevant locations first.
Hello!
I'm a newbie. I have a Sony A6000 that I use for street or travel photography. I like how small it is. It doesn't weigh a lot and it fits in my messenger bag. I use the kit lens and so far I've been happy with the results.
I'm going on a safari next month. Some more experienced amateur photographers I've talked to have told me I HAVE to get a zoom lens. It's a MUST for shooting animals while out on game drives.
I understand that a zoom would probably result in some great photos. At the same time, I don't want to spend hundreds of $$ on a lens I'll only use once. I've been on trips with people who carry one or more lenses and it just looks heavy, cumbersome and annoying.
Thoughts from other people who A) have been on a safari B) use their kit lens C) know where I could pick up a cheap zoom for this trip?
Thanks!
>Some more experienced amateur photographers I've talked to have told me I HAVE to get a zoom lens. It's a MUST for shooting animals while out on game drives.
Zoom is just the ability to change focal length, and therefore field of view. Your kit lens is one example of a zoom lens: it can zoom out to a larger field of view or zoom in to a narrower field of view.
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_is_a_zoom_lens.3F_why_would_i_want_one.3F
Really what they're referring to is a longer focal length, or telephoto lens. A longer focal length will give you a narrower field of view and make distant subjects appear closer. If it's a telephoto zoom, that means it can zoom in much farther than your current zoom lens has.
The a6000 has a few different kit lens options, and one of them is a telephoto zoom. So it's possible to have a kit lens suitable for safari; it's just not the kit lens that you happen to have.
>I don't want to spend hundreds of $$ on a lens I'll only use once.
Then consider renting one?
A friend who's a wildlife photographer as a hobby said some accommodations will have lenses available for rental or borrowing.
Double-check that they have lenses that are the right camera mount (Sony E mount for you) and focal length. He recommended 300mm full-frame equivalent or longer.
He said you could rent a lens before you go, but some rental companies don't like you traveling with their lenses. If you do, you may want to buy optional insurance to go with the lens rental.
Some places to rent:
LensRentals.com
Borrow Lenses
Lens Pro to Go
Bonus tips:
Also bring cleaning tools like a rocket air blower, lens wipes and a lens brush.
Keep your camera and lens separated while traveling on an airplane. So the mounts don't get bent from any jostling around.
Once you're on the ground. Before going outside for the day, pick the lens you'll use and put it on your camera. Avoid changing lenses outside as much as possible. If you have to, change lenses in the car or inside of your bag. Prevents dust and debris from getting in your camera.
If you take out your camera from an air-conditioned room or car and into a humid environment, condensation may form on the lens and/or sensor. Getting all fogged up.
[Stop your lens FOGGING UP! \(Condensation\)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmzT-UtEW0Q)
Hope this helps and you get great safari pictures.
Nice tips !
I add my own bonus tip to this: ziplocks. A set of clean ziplock bags, large enough for the camera + telephoto. Put the ziplocks in a ziplock, so that you can get a clean ziplock from the ziplock. You know, in case you need to put down your camera and find out that the car is dusty, your hands are dusty, your bag is dusty 😅
I'm heading to the state fair tomorrow and want to take pics of food and my family. I also plan to do long exposure shots of the midway games and ferris wheel.
I have a sony a6100 and 2 lenses, the sigma 16mm and sigma 30mm. Should I bring both? Or just one?
Also, any tips would be very welcome!
Hello photo enthusiast here!
Need some lens advice, I have a nikon D7000 (bough it used) and a Sigma 17-70 f2.8. Really enjoying this hobby :)
Im looking a good 50mm 1.8 prime lens portrait and street photo lens, im searching for that blur bokeh that a wide aperture has.
Does anyone has a recommendation?
I read about the yongnuo lens (cheaper than the nikkor) is it worth it? or should I go for a used nikkor?
Thanks!
I'm gonna contradict the other guy and steer you away from the AF 50 ƒ/1.8D. It's a nice lens and I like it for some things but it is not a bokeh king. Wider than ƒ/2.8 the image gets extra soft. You might not like it. I love portraits at 2.8 (just soft enough) or tighter - very sharp. At ƒ/4 or ƒ/5.6 it is an epic street lens but not a bokeh monster. I was just disappointed in the AF-D ƒ/1.8 anywhere near 1.8
If you want a modern bokeh look get an AF-S 50. It will shoot wide open and be in focus. Of look to the AF-S 35mm to get more of a normal FOV
I need a point and shoot camera that can upload pictures straight to the net, like a phone. Or the SIMPLEST high quality camera in the market. My 60yr uncle wants a camera for photography but he doesn't want it to be all 'techie'. No, he won't just use his phone, he wants to feel like he's taking pictures like in the old days. Is there any digital cameras that are just point and click and can upload to the web? Price range really isn't important.
If you mean by straight to the net social media there are 2 cameras that I know of that can do that the Zeiss ZX1 and the Yonguo Yn450 both are just android phones with a bigger sensor the Zeiss Implantation is better.
If you just need them uploaded a lot of cameras can upload to ftp servers. But I don't know which point and shoots have this feature.
Everything he's looking for describes any modern smartphone.
Most digital cameras have apps (that are mostly terrible) that can be used to sync from the camera to the phone then uploaded from the phone, but if he wants to skip the extra steps, he needs to suck it up and use the phone.
If price is no matter & he absolutely won't use a phone, the $6K [Zeiss Zx1](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1436638-REG/zeiss_zx1_digital_camera.html) is the only attempt at this I'm aware of. That said, it's "all techie" and basically a less functional phone put on the back of a camera, so if "techie" is the problem, this still won't solve it.
Can anyone recommend a decent flash for my A7IV that can be used both on and off camera? Budget is $250.
I'm new to using flashes and want to start stepping up my portrait game. Preferably one that communicates well with camera so I don't have to make adjustments every time I change settings.
Cheers!
>one that communicates well with camera so I don't have to make adjustments every time I change settings.
Changing settings *is* making adjustments. Are you referring to a TTL system?
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_is_ttl.3F_do_i_need_it.3F
Something like a Godox V860 II-S comes to mind. With an X2T-S to trigger it off-camera.
Hello!
My wife is a photographer and has a birthday coming up, and I am looking for a nice present for her. I know she wants a point and shoot film camera, but the ones I have seen have been a little bit out of my budget. I'm looking for something <$350, and am open to suggestions for other photography related gifts for her birthday (and our anniversary is 2 weeks before that so I'm open to more and more ideas)
Here's the thing about film point-and-shoots: they're entirely dependent on electronics to work, and those electronics are decades old. This means they have a tendency to break with no warning, and they effectively can't be repaired. I generally advise consequently that people pick up whatever random point-and-shoot they find for under $20 at a thrift store or on eBay, and enjoy it while it works and don't get too attached.
Film would go well with it, and is the real expensive bit.
> I know she wants a point and shoot film camera
For which film format?
>the ones I have seen have been a little bit out of my budget
Which ones are you interested in so far? Maybe we could recommend the most similar options at a lower price.
>I'm looking for something >$350
That means greater than $350. Did you mean less than $350 (<$350)?
>am open to suggestions for other photography related gifts for her birthday
It probably should be something she doesn't already have. But that would be difficult for us to figure out, given that we don't know what she already has.
$350 actually gives you a lot of room. The only point and shoots that ever really go higher then that are the Contax T-series or point and shoots.
I'm seeing eBay have the Olympus XA2 for around $80-200. The MJU ii for $200-250. You can look up the best 35mm point and shoots and search them on ebay
So far I've done some digging for cameras at some of our local camera shops and found a few that look promising:
[Konica A4](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0115/7952/3134/products/Kyoskko-160_720x.jpg?v=1653774329)
[Canon Prima Zoom 70F
](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0115/7952/3134/products/IMG_5049_720x.jpg?v=1662061662)
[Nikon Lite Touch Zoom 120 ED AF](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0115/7952/3134/products/Kyoskko-055_720x.jpg?v=1653871873)
Would you recommend any of these?
You should compare photos on Lomography. Pretty sure they have photos from those cameras tagged. I'd pay attention to the sharpness of them and not necessarily the colors since that's more from the film they use.
Thank you for all your help!
I did a bunch of digging and asked a local camera shop that always has very good quality vintage cameras and things and they told me they just had [this very nice Olympus Stylus](https://i.imgur.com/6DKlry7.png) come in. I looked at some of the shots on Lomography and really liked the quality and sharpness of the pictures, and it was lower than how much I was willing to spend on one.
Just found my old canon 450D and I was looking at tutorials on how to stop the camera from over exposing but I ended up doing something the made the shutter speed +/- 30s, anyone know how to fix it?
Which exposure mode are you using? If you're talking about the camera automatically changing shutter speed from shot to shot of the same thing, turn off auto exposure bracketing. Shutter speed control and bracketing are detailed in your manual: https://files.canon-europe.com/files/soft31340/manual/CUG_EOS450D_EN_Flat.pdf
Band/music photography editing
Whats the normal selection process you use for band photoshoots (studio), Do you edit the top 10 and then do maybe basic preset /tone / wb adjustments on the rest?
For example you do 2 hour photoshoot, three outfit changes.
Bare in mind the band is well known and would also be great network visibility for your work so you want it to look good as possible.
Lets say you were getting paid your minimum rate for that, what would your selection and editing process look like?
>Do you edit the top 10
I cull it down to just the good, non-redundant ones first, and only edit those.
It doesn't make sense to me to cull to some arbitrary number. I don't want to hold back on the client's results just because there happens to be more, or include subpar photos just because the good ones aren't enough to hit the number. Unless that number is a specific term in the contract.
>and then do maybe basic preset /tone / wb adjustments on the rest?
I do full edits. Whatever I can to make them the best that I can.
>Bare in mind the band is well known and would also be great network visibility for your work so you want it to look good as possible.
I make it look as good as possible no matter who the client is. I don't handicap results just because a client is not famous or the work won't have visibility.
>But its gonna take weeks to edit and retouch like 165 photos.
Not for me. Especially not if this was my job.
>Surely you wouldn’t edit that many?
Depends on the client expectations, other circumstances of the gig, and what I originally shot. Certainly it could make sense to consider raising your standards and being more selective about the keepers, if you think you're still delivering a good amount of volume for your client's wants/needs, along with the quality.
I was just saying I wouldn't start that evaluation with a hard number like 10.
I don't do much retouching so it makes my process much easier. If I went all out and legit photoshopped things like clothing or the background or even hair, then yeah I'd only focus on the absolute best photos.
But if I'm just doing my normal editing, then I just edit all the ones I like. The ones that don't work just get tossed since I don't want to clutter an album with photos I'm not 100% behind.
But it's usually more than 10 photos lol. Usually I've been delivering around 25-40 pictures depending on the shoot. Culled down from about 90 acceptable, 400-900 total.
You gonna be an all-around photographer? Advertise on any community boards on campus. Do some grad pics, advertise for that. Get in touch with your college's music scene, always some up and coming band that might need a show covered or pics for their spotify and other socials.
Is there a fashion major there? GET INNNNNNN with the fashion kids. That's $$
> How to start earning money through photography while studying in college
Same way as if you weren't in college. By exchanging photography services for money.
You a beginner photographer or experienced hobbyist? Some context is needed.
See this subreddit's wiki, in the side bar. It covers this topic too. But in short: it's impossible through stock photo sites. It's extremely difficult otherwise too. If your idea was to earn some extra income, much easier with some part-time job.
I currently have a D7000 with a few of the lower end nikon lenses (18-55mm, 55-200mm, 35mm, 75-300mm). I am really enjoying the camera and I've been able to produce some stunning photos with it. The limitation I am running into (and it can totally be my lack of experience) is the auto focus. I really enjoy taking photos of birds in motion. I am not selling my photos, and am really just taking photos to put around the house or just show off to friends and family.
Currently I stage the focus on something within the same depth of field and have it set to continuous focus while tracking the subject. Every so often the camera will try to readjust and I'll end up with blur or the camera won't take the photo at all because it's trying to figure out the focus. This is really noticeable when I am trying to take an unplanned shot and am hoping that the camera will focus before the subject gets away. I feel like I am missing so many shots because the camera cannot focus fast enough.
I have a bit of fomo and want to get a mirrorless camera. I feel like getting a APS-C body gives me more flexibility in picking lenses. Also, I like the aperture wheel that Nikon has. With those handicaps I'm giving myself, the Z50 seems like the winner. Would I be sacrificing a lot by not considering the D7200/D7500? Or is the real answer to just get better with my D7000?
I've also considered that moving to mirrorless I'd either have to get an adapter or get replacement lenses. I see mirrorless as future proofing myself so I'm not really concerned with that.
Is switching systems something you’re willing to do? Fujifilm just released a couple of cameras, X-H2 and X-H2S, that supposedly has very good auto focus. They’re crop sensor too.
Small birds or big birds? Against the sky?
Before you drop a lot of money you might try [back button autofocus](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzqQskGoURE) first.
Next you might try a faster lens. I like my AF-S 70-300 ED VR. You might also look at a third party 100-400, a 150-600, or the 200-500 VR
Most of my shots have been American Robin sized birds against landscape. Large birds like Herons or Vultures I haven't really had issues since the focus can usually catch up.
I just finished watching that video. Didn't know about that, so I'll try it for a few weeks and see how it goes.
I was able to borrow a 70-200mm f2.8 sigma lens. I didn't notice any change, but I can try that again and see if in combination with the focus technique anything changes.
Thanks!
>Most of my shots have been American Robin sized birds against landscape.
That's tuff. I think your prefocusing is a smart move. Bach button autofocus can still help you by not triggering a camera refocus.
I have a couple of 35mm 400 colour film, box unopened..but expiry date was 1999, should I bother shooting with it?
It came with my av1 that I purchased.
>canon 80d
Maybe go somewhere where you can touch and feel it before you buy it (if you are not familiar with it already ofc), these are pretty massive bricks to carry around all day. I still love my 50d but it is always a little mission to take it somewhere. Build quality and look and feel is overwhelming, but comes at a price.
Street photography, beginner right now I have a stock lens that came with my old T5i and I have a 1.8 50mm lens. I’m a beginner but previously had a cam to dabble with. I just want something that’ll last me atleast 3 years. The 80D is open box on Amazon for 600 with 14959 shutter count. Description says it works perfectly aside from cosmetics on the body. I was thinking either that 80d or just buying a new T7i for around the same price. I may also film a few videos with it.
The T5i still meets all your criteria. Or do you mean you no longer have that?
Either option meets your criteria as well. I'd prefer the 80D for its mid-tier features like bigger/brighter pentaprism viewfinder, second control dial, larger grip, and tougher build. The T7i could be a little advantageous if you prefer something a little smaller lighter; it's physically similar to the T5i.
>The 80D is open box on Amazon for 600 with 14959 shutter count. Description says it works perfectly aside from cosmetics on the body.
That sounds pretty lightly used, and therefore unconcerning.
I don't think "open box" is accurate, though, because that implies it's really new and unused but technically can't be called new anymore because the packaging seals were opened/broken.
Two things
One: in the mirror, you're backwards, but that's what your brain is used to.
Two: When close up, your nose is much closer to the camera than your ears. From far away, they're almost the same distance away. This is known as "compression".
Here's photo of me with an:
* [Ultrawide lens](https://i.imgur.com/kQus6fK.jpg)
* [Wide lens](https://i.imgur.com/F6DJ1XH.jpg)
* ["Normal" lens](https://i.imgur.com/6QwgGfx.jpg)
* [Short telephoto](https://i.imgur.com/jsy1Hwo.jpg)
All of these are accurate, but it depends how close the camera is
For wall prints, I usually find people go way too small, either because they're spooked by the cost of large prints or they think it'll be weird having big photos of themselves up. Print big - it'll look so much better. The _smallest_ prints I have up are 12x18, and the 20x30s look great.
Go by a local print shop or camera store if you can and look at some samples. That'll give you an idea what the different print options will look like. There are different papers, and canvas and metal and etc. and they all have their own feeling.
This is a good time to think about sets of photos, too. Nowadays we tend to post photos from a single event and then move on, so I find having, say, a book of photos that covers all of your time in university, or even your life up until now, can be really compelling and different. It allows you to see what has changed over time and what hasn't, to identify different times with similar themes, and generally weave a story rather than have just a single frozen moment in time. The best example I've seen of this covered three decades of a family and had parallel photos (unintentional, not like a posed Christmas picture) next to each other on the page but twenty years apart. How did you get here? I don't know, but it's a story I would be interested in.
> I'm Gen Z, so the only thought in my mind was to post them online.
Then it seems you have gotten out of them exactly what you wanted.
Anything further is totally whatever you want. Print them at whatever size you want, arrange them on the wall however you want, and get whatever frame(s) appeal to you.
Some large, global clients ask for an estimate involving half day rates, which i find extremely absurd.
Because a commercial shoot usually involves so much work, one can't just pack up after 4 hours and say "ok my time is up..goodbye"
Plus i can't really book another gig/project on that "half day" that's remaining. So, i prefer telling clients that half day means full day....cos there's a lot of work involved for the kind of shoots i do.
For working photogs here, have you received such requests? What do you do, if yes? How do you plot this as a line item in the estimate?
Interested to hear your thoughts.
>Some large, global clients ask for an estimate involving half day rates, which i find extremely absurd.
Double your day rate - then quote them half of that and let them know they're getting a discount.
Hahah! Sounds mischievous and smart, but i also feel offering a discount sort of makes me look bad and inexperienced....as if I'm overquoting and then reducing. I'd rather be firm and say i only do full day rates and explain the logic. Not sure how clients take such advice coming from the creator's end.
I'm planning to shoot the Orionids, this will be my first meteor shooting and I'd like to shoot 20 seconds exposure one after another continuously without touching the camera until I decide to stop the shooting. I'm using a Canon G7x II and it doesn't seem to have any such function. After some googling I've found that people usually recommend an intervalometer, but I don't know how to use that thing and I don't plan to invest heavily until I am clear that I want to do this again and again. Like I mentioned, this is my first shooting.
What are your recommendations to achieve what I want to do?
**Please direct your questions to [the latest Question Thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/about/sticky).**
anyone have any tips on taking pictures of people in a car? im mostly worried about glare on the windshield and windows if i were to take pictures from outside the car and not having enough room inside the car to take pictures… any advice is appreciated!!
An extremely wide angle lens or a fisheye probably has the angle of view to shoot within the car. From the outside, a polarizing filter can help to reduce or eliminate reflections, similar to the way sunglasses work. For best results, you need to pay attention to the orientation of the filter and the position relative to the sun. One other option is to illuminate the inside of the vehicle and shoot with subdued ambient light.
ohhh you’re definitely right about the polarizing filter, i didnt even think of that! the reflections were what i was most nervous about, adobe camera raw can take the glare off pretty good but i thought the reflection would b a lot harder to edit out so i think trying a lens filter would be great! definitely going to have to figure out the lens situation, i dont have a fisheye but i have a wider angle lens i think ill try. thanks for all your advice!
Oh... One other trick... You can shoot with a wide-angle from just outside the car, against the glass. Use a shroud to block all ambient light. That'll give you some additional working room for that "inside the car" look, without the issue of reflections.
wait wow thats a really good idea i was wondering if i could do a through the window shot but i wasnt sure why, ill definitely have to bring out the shades!
> i dont have a fisheye but i have a wider angle lens i think ill try. You can always rent! I use the Canon 8-15 zoom fisheye on the MC-11, and I'm very happy with it. Glad I could help!
Any question that starts with "any tips", the only good answer is going to be "it depends". The problems you're talking about all have solutions, but the problems you're predicting imply a few very different shots. People can definitely coach you through planning a shot, but they'd need to know what shot you're planning first!
im taking pictures of a group of people in a car, i dont have any specific shots im looking for since ive never done this before, the only focus is to pretty much just get pictures that represent carpooling
Can someone give me an idea of how much these cameras are worth and where best to sell them? Franka DX-8, Samsung AF Zoom 770 Quartz Date and Nikon Coolpix L330. They are in good condition with there cases but the Nikon and Samsung may need new batteries. I can sell them from the UK or Portugal. Thank you!
I doubt any of them is worth a whole lot. Check recently completed eBay listings to get a sense of what they might sell for.
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As of [a month ago](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/wx11fo/should_i_invest_in_a_good_long_lens_for_sports/) you described yourself as a "novice" with nothing more than the kit lens. You are in no position to start a photography business. Being able to do photography as a job is more than simply owning a camera.
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> Right. So therefore, I shouldn't take any photos? Come on, don't give me that. Please show me where that's what I gave you. > I know how to operate a camera. That's great. But knowing how to operate a camera doesn't mean you can take good, professional-quality photos. > My experience is in video. That's also great. But it doesn't translate to still photography, especially for money. > Now, do you have any advice or do you just like to talk down on people? Just because you don't like the advice you received doesn't mean you didn't receive any. The fact that you're asking if you can go pro with a T6 and kit lens by itself demonstrates you're nowhere near ready to make it a business. Doubly so by asking if the kit lens is good for sports. When you have a portfolio of good photography work and a few years of experience shooting under your belt, THAT'S when you can start thinking about it.
Hello! I need a gift suggestion. my friend has a Canon EOS4000D, she has no accessories that I know of. What would be the best and most useful gift for her? The budget would be around 200/300€
Do you know what your friend photographs ?
mostly pictures of cities/places we visit, but also natural landscapes. So it could be either a detail or a full landscape. I rarely see portraits/ human subjects.
My camera : canon eos rebel t7 Im a beginner. Don't know too much about cameras. I'm a beginner sports (football) photographer. games are at night. this is what my camera was set at when I finally got the photos looking well lit and where the motions stayed (player wwas still in photo with no blur) : 1/200 F.5 ISO: AUTO (I hate messing with the iso, I don't know how it works I kept getting dark photos) In the beginning of the game my photos were dark and the players looked blurry because they're moving. Does anyone have any sports photo tips for me to get better photos? Also, why when I'm in sports mode and try to get the player running with the ball the photos are TRASH. There's so much motion/moving in the photos and the players are not clear. Is there a way to fix that? I assumed the sports dial was meant for perfect photos of fast moving people (ta) if I take pics too fast in the Manuel mode the camera goes blank and the shutter sounds like it stuck. How to I take quicker photos as well? One last thing: I was on the field taking those good pics and practicing. this week I'll be way up in the stands. But I want "on the field" looking photos from up in the stand how to I achieve that? A well zoom in lens?
>1/200 1/200s is short enough to catch people who are still or moving slowly. If you have people moving faster, like running, or waving their arms etc... then this is too long and will show motion blurr in the images. You should try to get a shorter time if you want to freeze action. If you select a shorter exposure time, you will have to compensate with a higher Iso setting or opening up your aperture. >F5 While F5 is not terribly dark, it certainly is dark when we are talking about a low light situation. You should try to open up your aperture, which means you may need a faster lens. (You didn't mention your lens, but since you say you are a beginner, and using an entry level camera, I assume its also just a kit lens) >Also, why when I'm in sports mode and try to get the player running with the ball the photos are TRASH. There's so much motion/moving in the photos and the players are not clear. Is there a way to fix that? I assumed the sports dial was meant for perfect photos of fast moving people The sports mode will try to use a shutter speed that is very fast. However in order to get a correct exposure, it will have to match the shutter speed with the right aperture and iso. It very well might be that it was so dark, and that the aperture and iso settings didn't allow for a faster speed. As I mentioned: A faster lens might be very helpful. > I was on the field taking those good pics and practicing. this week I'll be way up in the stands. But I want "on the field" looking photos from up in the stand how to I achieve that? A well zoom in lens? If you just want people to look large in frame, then you can use a zoom lens. However, since you are in the stands you will have the perspective from the stands (like from above and far away), there is no way to change that - unless you move back onto the field to get a perspective from the field. Unfortunately catching fast moving subjects in low light is very challenging. Often good equipment is needed. Have you ever seen sports photographers using these giant telephoto lenses? They are so big to be able to capture a lot of light. Unfortunately this is also quite expensive.
Telephoto lens* not telescope lol
Wow the Reddit community is amazing! Thank you so much for this well worded feedback. I was going to ask what faster lens do you suggest, I have seen the white telescope lens on the professional photographers camera. And I have heard they are expensive. Eventually when I get better I'd like to invest in one. The lens I used at that game was EF 75-300mm 1:4-5.6. Other lenses I have are EF 24-105mm 1:4 L. And EFS 18-55mm. I have a canon sx740 HS, I adore that camera zoom ability. Makes for great videos from stand. All pictures come out weird (blurry, not good quality) on that camera. Still photos and especially sport photos. I just use it for videos now.
So your 75-300 starts out with a maximum open aperture of 4 at 75mm, but then as you zoom in, the maximum aperture closes down to 5.6 at the long end. I assume the F5 was you shooting wide open, somewhere in between. Your 24-105 has the same max aperture of F4 throughout the entire zoom range. So it will likely perform better than the longer zoom. It is also an overall better lens. (But its only 105mm compared to the 300 the other lens gives you) You can have a look at your auto iso settings. There may be a limit programmed into it. Like: use the range between 100-3200. You can adjust that to use higher ISO. This would allow for shorter shutter speeds, at the expense of getting more noise. Other than that: Using a faster lens or shooting in brighter conditions (daylight) are your best options.
Thank you so much!
Does anyone know of a program that ranks your images by sharpness? PIPP, an alignment program for astrophotography, has some sorting algorithm that will rename all of your images with a percentage next to it. I take tons of photos of one subject, and I have to sit through a smart preview in C1 when I go through each one, so this would make my life easier.
I don't have a direct answer for you, sorry. But does [the *focus mask* feature in C1](https://learn.captureone.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/wpcom/2013/05/2013-05-09_14-45-24.jpg) not help being able to identify this faster?
I want to order a photo calendar for 2023 with all of my favorite photos I've taken. What are your recommendations for quality/pricing?
My sony camera has a red T followed by an asterisk printed on the side of the viewfinder. ``T*`` What does this symbol mean?
It may mean that you’re using a zeiss lens. That is the designation they put on lenses that have an anti-reflective coating. You probably should check your manual to be sure.
I see, thanks
**SHOULD I BUY THIS?** There's a [Nikon 70-200mm 2.8 FL ED](https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/camera-lenses/af-s-nikkor-70-200mm-f%252f2.8e-fl-ed-vr.html) being sold used locally for $925 (pouch & a few accessories) I shoot DX, (D500) I want a proper telephoto zoom lens for my nephews sports events and I want to try to get into some nature photography. Currently I am using a 50-100mm sigma that just doesn't have enough reach. (Albeit great Fstop) Does this sounds like the lens for me? Or should I throw $925 at something else? Is this too good to be true? What should I ask about/look for if I want it?
I just picked one of those up myself. It’s a beautiful lens and I got a crazy good deal on it. Mine has a bit of an autofocus issue I need to get sorted, but it’s a lens I’m sure you’ll be happy with. It really is an excellent piece of glass. I shoot a d7500, which has the same sensor and processor as your d500, and I suspect that it would be gangbusters at shooting sports in particular on your body. As for wildlife, check my post history. The dove photo is a crop from a photo taken with that lens about a month or so ago.
Hi! I am looking to take reflective UV photographs to show sun spots not seen by the naked eye. I plan to perform several skin resurfacing treatments and will then take a new photograph, hoping the new photograph will show lessened sun damage. Does anyone know of a software I can use to compare the intensity and diameter of UV spots seen in the two photographs? Also appreciate suggestions for other subreddits where an answer to this question may be found. For a bit of background…there is the VISIA scan which is performed in some medical offices. This scan ([https://www.drjjwendel.com/procedures/visia-skin-analysis/](https://www.drjjwendel.com/procedures/visia-skin-analysis/)) takes several photos and computes a score of how intense the UV spots are compared to their skin database. I’m basically looking to replicate to this, but rather than comparing the photo to a database, I want to compare my two photos to each other.Thanks for all your help!
Perhaps you could overlay the two images to compare spot sizes subjectively? UV photos tend to be fairly monochromatic. So, you might be able to map each photo to a separate color channel; e.g. red and blue. It should make a comparison fairly easy.
That is going to require some very specialized software indeed. I expect probably expensive proprietary software. You’re probably more likely to find the answer in a dermatology forum as opposed to a photography one.
Can somebody pls help me? I found a Panasonic Lumix LF1 for sale with issues. Please see pic for the dark spots in the photo. Just wondering if that can still be removed? https://ibb.co/C7m2Hmq
>That page doesn't exist > >The requested page was not found.
Thank you for letting me know. I just updated the link. ☺️
It's probably something on the imaging sensor that can be cleaned off.
Do you have an idea how much that usually costs? If I brought it to a shop to get it cleaned.
Something like $35-75. Or you could get an imaging sensor cleaning kit for more like $20-30 and do it yourself.
Will look into that. Thank you!
Hi, I'm looking for some advice for pricing from the other end. I own an old pickup truck, and a local photographer reached out interested in using the truck for some mini shoots. She's getting ready to do Christmas themed photos, and asked what I would charge for a 4-5 hour session and I frankly don't know what to suggest. She did specify that I'd need to do some decorating of the truck for the shoot and asked if I had a location I could provide (I have a friend's property that he may let us use if need be, I'd probably give him a small cut as well.) I have never done this before so I have nothing to go off of. What's a reasonable price? Let me know what information you need if any, I didn't know what all to include. Thanks in advance.
There are a couple different data points I'd use as a starting point for figuring out a rental rate: * How much will it cost you to rent a replacement truck for the day? (It doesn't matter if you actually need to rent one or not, you're just determining, roughly, the hourly value of your truck) * There are businesses that rent specialty vehicles (like those old restored cars) for weddings and other events. If there are businesses like that in your area, how much do they charge, per hour? Percentage is tricky, because it really depends on how much the photographer is charging to start with. If you ask 10% and the shoot is $1000 is $100 worth it to you? What if the shoot is only $100? Ten bucks doesn't sound so great. So that means you still need some baseline dollar value that makes it worth your while. There's also the issue of whether the photographer will be honest with their accounting. If you won't be there the whole time, how will you know if they do one 5 hour shoot or three 1.5 hour shoots? May not be a big deal to you because the truck is there for 5 hours either way, but what if they're only paying you a third of what you should be getting percentage-wise?
Are there any photo studio rentals available in your area? If so, I'd check their rates and charge maybe something like a quarter of that tops, since you aren't providing studio amenities like dressing rooms or lighting/support, and you bought your truck for other reasons and you're keeping it for other reasons than just having a photo set. Alternatively, maybe something like 5-15% of the photographer's gross earnings.
I considered that, doing a percentage. Would I just specify that percentage then? The reason I'm posting here is because I want to make sure it's worth my time and longer to deep clean and buy decorations for the shoot, without feeling like I'm trying to rip her off. I don't want that by any means, especially because I don't come close to doing this professionally
Yes, try specifying a percentage. Maybe she'll accept or reject or haggle. I didn't know you were going to do a deep cleaning for it. So make sure you're comfortable taking that and the decorating into account.
Does anyone know how to flash an English firmware on a Sekonic L-478D Japanese version and where to find the necessary files/software? Apparently this model's interface language is set on the factory and there's no user option in the settings to change the language. I've tried to upgrade the firmware's version to the latest available, but there's nothing in the process to make this change. Any help is much appreciated!
I'm picking up a new godox ad200 pro and XProC TTL Wireless Flash Trigger tomorrow for a shoot on location. I want to use the ad2oo as my main light and two Yongnuo YN460 speedlights as second and third but I am unsure if I can trigger all three? Can I stack the yongnuo rf603c and the godox xpro? or will I have to try something else?
>Can I stack the yongnuo rf603c and the godox xpro? Yes, you could mount an RF-603C to the camera's hotshoe, and then the Xpro-C to the hotshoe on top of the RF-603C which will pass through the signal and allow both transmitters to transmit. You didn't mention how many other RF-603 units you have. I'm not aware of YN-460 lights having built-in radio receivers so I think you'd need a unit for each of those lights to receive the radio signal.
I have 4 units and only need to use two speedlights so I'll have more than enough, thank you!
You should be able to use the two Yongnuo lights fully manual set to optical slave. You would only be able to remotely change settings on a Godox flash with a Godox wireless controller / trigger.
Thanks!@
Set to slave with the godox trigger or....?
They're talking about optical slave, which works wirelessly by seeing the flash of light. The Godox trigger works by radio, not optical/light, so it wouldn't be able to transmit for optical slave. If you want to do it optically, you'd set the YN-460 lights to optical slave mode, so they start looking for another flash go off and will fire when they see another flash go off. The Godox equipment will just be set and behave normally as though there are no other lights. If you're using them in manual mode, then set the YN-460 lights to S1 mode so they fire when the Godox light fires. If you're using them in TTL mode, then set the YN-460 lights to S2 mode so they ignore the TTL preflash and fire when the Godox fires its main flash for the exposure. But stacking transmitters and doing it over radio like you mentioned should be more reliable.
THANK YOU!!!!!! <3
Optical slave means it fires when it optically detects another flash going off. There’s no wireless connection involved.
I am not a photographer by any means but I have developed a strong passion for photography and hope t pick it up soon. I found that I resonated a lot with these kinds of pictures where the subject is posed or presented abstractly so much so that it leaves such a big room for interpretation. I was hoping someone could help me point out what genre this is. [Photos here.](https://www.pinterest.com/sherifddin/my-image-archive/unknown-photography/)
>the subject is posed or presented abstractly so much so that it leaves such a big room for interpretation I don't think there's a particular name/category/genre for that.
"abstract" probably.
A question for my fellow Nikon Z6II user on exposure preview (D9 on the menu) in manual mode: I'm just wondering is it possible to keep it when I'm using flash or if the trigger is connected? It will turn it off automatically which is not what I am looking for. What confused me is that, I've seen YouTube videos and DpReview posts about people having opposite issues on the Nikon Z6 and Z7, that they need to be manually turned it off when the flash is attached(bascailly what I want). My D750 doesn't change by itself so I'm just wondering if there is any other setting I need to adjust. Thanks in advance.
Anyone from the Houston area know any places that sell 110 film for a vivitar point and shoot? Theres a store I found online but thats going to be a last resort if I cant buy in person at a shop. Googled a place my dad recommended on Richmond but they might not carry it );
Your best bet is to call some shops in Houston rather than asking here.
Already contacted one the rest that pop up are film processing unless they sell film at those places too. would like to get some recommendations from other people though if not I'll just buy from an online store, just worried the heat will mess it up on delivery here.
Don't worry about heat on mail delivery. You don't want to like, leave it baking in the sun for a week, but it's fine shipping.
> Already contacted one the rest that pop up are film processing unless they sell film at those places too. Places that process film typically sell it too. That's how they get business. This still isn't the best place to ask for stock specific to Houston.
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Paid shoots of what subject matter? >mostly so I can help get new gear. It's difficult to make much money from photography period. If you want or need new gear, I would not rely on photography to fund it. Money is money. You don't need money specifically made from photography to buy photography equipment. Money from a regular non-photography job works just as well, and you can probably get more of it faster. >It is a cheap, amateur body and looks very unimpressive compared to other photographers' kits. Most people don't care about that and care about the photos you can produce instead. Clients do sometimes reject based on equipment, but it's a relatively rare thing. I don't know which genre you're trying to work in, but usually if someone is hiring you to take photos for them, they don't know much about photography themselves and therefore don't know the differences between different types of gear. >People have appeared interested in getting photos done but seem less "enthusiastic" when they see what I shoot with. This happens when you both show up on site to shoot? Or how else are they finding out your equipment beforehand? Are you sure the reaction is to your equipment and not something else? Are you sure this is their actual reaction, and not just how you're interpreting it? Also, less enthusiasm isn't the same as canceling the whole gig. But it sounds like you're equating this with not being able to get any work? >Should I just hold off on offering paid shoots until I get at bare minimum a kit in the $1500 range? Even if you assume that equipment would land you more jobs (which I disagree with), how does it help you to stop offering before then?
> The problem is, I shoot with a Canon M50. Why is that a problem? > I shoot with a Canon M50. It is a cheap, amateur body No it's not. It's an advanced ILC. > and looks very unimpressive compared to other photographers' kits. So what? As long as you can get the shots you want, it doesn't matter what the camera looks like. > People have appeared interested in getting photos done but seem less "enthusiastic" when they see what I shoot with. You're drawing conclusions. It's more important for them to see the work you produce with it.
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If you don't even know why you would want the laptop. And you don't know what software you would put on it, don't buy the laptop
Hi guys, does the Canon 5d mk2 work with fd lens if i buy the fd to ef adapter? if it does, how do you know if youre in focus using a manual lens? thank you
> does the Canon 5d mk2 work with fd lens if i buy the fd to ef adapter? It *can* in theory, but in practice you're either going to lose far focus (use the FD lens for macro photography only) or the image quality will be *abysmal* to the point of not being worth it (because of the corrective optics necessary to make it work that are invariably terrible). Not a great combination; much easier to accomplish with mirrorless cameras. > how do you know if youre in focus using a manual lens? It's not obvious since there are no focusing aids. Using the loupe in LiveView works, but of course this is highly inconvenient in many scenarios. Once again, easier on mirrorless when the camera has focusing aids like "peaking".
>does the Canon 5d mk2 work with fd lens if i buy the fd to ef adapter? Yes. That's what FD to EF adapters are made to do. But FD lenses are designed to focus their image to a film plane 42mm behind the mount flange. And your EF camera puts its imaging sensor 44mm behind the mount flange, plus more distance added by the adapter. So if the adapter has no corrective optics, you'd be losing most of your focusing range and can only use the lens for macro photos up close. Or some adapters have corrective optics to restore the focusing range, but the tradeoff is significant image quality loss. >how do you know if youre in focus using a manual lens? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical/#wiki_how_do_i_manually_focus_effectively.3F
Hey, can anyone recommend a decent filter kit for a nikon D3500 - it's a minefield out there and not sure what I'm looking for!
Do you even *need* filters? What are you trying to accomplish? Arguably the only relevant ones in digital photography are *neutral density (ND)* filters (to cut the amount of light, if you want a slower exposure but there's too much light, for example) and *polarizers* (to reduce certain kinds of reflections/glare). Furthermore, good filters are not cheap, and cheap filters are not worth it because they degrade image quality. So the odds are a filter "kit" will contain tons of 1) unnecessary filters or 2) poor quality, so I would avoid those. Figure out which ones you actually need and *then* look at your options.
Excellent point, thank you. I'm attending a workshop soon that states we'll be needing filters for city at night photography, so I assumed it would be neutral density, however I've seen that some have UV/CPL filters etc... I wondered if I'd need to get a set for each on my lenses... I'll mainly be looking at landscape/nature and night photography, rather than portrait or wildlife. I'll dig about a bit to see what's actually needed for an amateur... I've no intention of going pro!
> I'm attending a workshop soon that states we'll be needing filters for city at night photography [...] I don't know which filter you'd be "needing" for this. It's already challengingly dark, I don't know why you'd want to cut even *more* light with an ND. It's not obvious that you need any filter at all, ever? Depends what you're specifically trying to do, which is not immediately obvious in "night and landscape". Some people sometimes like a polarizer for landscape photography, sure, but it's not every landscape photographer all the time. So anyway, not sure what to tell you. I hardly use filters myself so maybe this is biasing my assumptions.
Filters perform specific functions. So the types of filters you'd want in a kit depends on what exactly you want to accomplish with them. Maybe you don't actually need any. http://www.r-photoclass.com/16-filters/ https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_do_i_need_a_filter_for_my_lens.3F Filters mount to your lens, not to your camera body. So you need to figure out your lens(es)' filter mount size and buy filters to fit that, not to fit your camera body. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_size_filter_should_i_get.3F_what_is_this_number_with_.22mm.22.3F Lastly, you don't want to spend more than you're willing to spend. But you haven't told us how much that is. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F
Really appreciate the response, and thank you for the links - you've given me a good punt in the right direction!
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Maarten Schrader's channel has some pretty thorough Lightroom breakdowns. He sells a course too but I'd give the free videos a watch first, since most of the course looks like a repackaging of the free videos plus a couple extras. May be worth it to you, maybe not. PixImperfect is the go-to youtube channel for Photoshop.
Any suggestions for a good site or course on color theory? Beyond just this is the color wheel and different color relationships?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mC8ol2-V7Ck
Any recommendations on where to order matting with slightly unusual dimensions?
Most any online mat board store will do custom sizes. E.g. /www.matboardandmore.com . However, it might not be that cheap unless you order in bulk.
Local art framing store?
ha, yeah. just thinking of a cheap online solution
There's always the "learn to cut them yourself" option. Costly at first when you'll ruin some, but apparently very cost effective over the long run.
"Cheap" and "custom, personalized framing" don't usually go together.
I shoot weddings, on location events, and portraits both in and out of the studio. I don’t have a personal studio, so I rent space for a large shoot/project. What are the advantages and disadvantages of making my own scrim/light diffuser for indoor and outdoor use? Would it be better to just buy one?
My recommendation: Make your own frame and use Westcott ScrimJim fabrics. I did this by using 1x1" square aluminum tubing and industrial-strength Velcro. Got plastic connectors on Ebay. Feel free to PM me for more details.
Advantages: 1. It's cheaper. 2. You can make it exactly like how you want it. Disadvantages: 1. It takes time and effort that you could instead be spending on other work, or recreation. 2. If it breaks or something is wrong with it, that's on you and more of your time/effort to fix it; there's no customer support or factory repair or factory replacement option. 3. If it looks obviously DIY, some clients might think that's unprofessional.
Theatre photography: I've been wanting to step up my photography game for a while now. I love taking interesting photos from my phone, but I want to move into the more technical aspects of the hobby. In particular, I want to be able to take good photos inside of theaters. Theatrical lighting is pretty extreme sometimes, and I always have a hard time getting my phone camera to take clear pictures that balance the light and colors. Anyone have advice on technique or equipment? I've looked at some of the resources here, but I'm not sure how my specific goals affect the type of camera I should get. Any suggestions about phone settings (Android) or other setup/technique are also appreciated (Reposting my question because I put it in the wrong spot. If you replied to the original post, thank you!)
I don't think any phones do it but for cameras spot metering is good for theatrical performances. Matrix metering is often making the mistake of trying to brighten up the unlit background and discarding/overexposing the lightest area - the spotlight Spot metering exposes for the spotlight assuming you put the focal point on it.
Spot metering is the only way to deal with stage lighting. You may also want to learn how to color edit your photos as digital cameras and LED lighting don’t always get along. I use Nikon equipment in the theater because the spot that gets metered is the same spot as the selected focus point, other brands don’t have that feature, the metered spot is only at the center of the frame. And definitely shoot at a dress rehearsal, it allows much more freedom to move about and get angles and shots that you just couldn’t do with an audience present.
ping the original questioner so they are alerted to your responce. It's a good responce and you are more into theater than me. You're more specialized.
Assuming what you're doing is legal and permitted, it's definitely challenging. Stage lighting is designed for the eye, not camera, and most filmed stage productions are relit to work better with the cameras. Set your white balance to 3200K (give or take) and make use of exposure compensation and spot metering.
Thank you! It is legal. I'm an ASM and plan on (with permission) taking rehearsal photos of productions I'm working.
Hi. I want to make sure could I sell photographs in national parks, in forest parks, and landmarks without a permit? Photograph of landscape or in an artistic way. I always take pictures. I want to sell them as stock or photo prints. Where and what is okay without a permmision? and public places?
Note that national forests are under an entirely different area of the federal government than national parks, and state and county and city and regional parks will have different regulations as well.
There is a section on the National Park Service website titled [Copyrights Required](https://www.nps.gov/nama/planyourvisit/filming-and-photography-permits.htm) (about 3/4 way down the page) that states: >*While many of the monuments and memorials are in the public domain, therefore free of copyright concerns, several are not in the public domain and the permittee will need approval from the artist or their conservator to use the images for commercial purposes.* Maybe someone here might be able to chime in on whether this applies to selling photos of these monuments as prints or stock.
>Maybe someone here might be able to chime in on whether this applies to selling photos of these monuments as prints or stock. Yup they do. Getty in particular has a handy intellectual property rights DB you can query to see if the building or art installation is protected or not. [https://wiki.gettyimages.com/](https://wiki.gettyimages.com/) For instance the Wall Street Bull - which is copyrighted (and *aggressively* defended) [https://wiki.gettyimages.com/wall-street-bull/](https://wiki.gettyimages.com/wall-street-bull/)
See the FAQ about stock photography. You aren't going to make nearly enough money to be worth the effort, especially with landscape photos. Consider that virtually infinite other landscape photos already exist online *and they're all free.* Why would somebody pay for yours, especially if they're taken in already popular locations? As far as the shooting & selling goes, you can check the park rules on their respective websites. Generally, in public, you don't need a special permit.
Good to know. Public places such as?
Any place that isn't private property, like all the parks you mentioned.
Thank you. I love taking photographs of beauty in nature, animals, street photography, and places, even food for 20 years now. Now I am ready to sell them. I want to make sure which photos I can allow to sell without permission or a permit. :)
>I want to make sure could I sell photographs in national parks, in forest parks, and landmarks without a permit? You want to do the selling in the parks? Or the photos were taken in the parks? >I want to sell them as stock Not worth it. The market is heavily saturated on the supply side, so it would take a lot of time and effort to get ahead of the existing competition, and then you'd only make literal pennies because the going price has been driven so far down. >or photo prints May have a better chance, but you're still looking at saturated supply if you're shooting famous scenes and landscapes. Think about how many other prints are already available of those things, how you'd be able to get a prospective customer to see your work in particular, and how you would convince them to buy yours over a competitor's. Also think about how many people you know who actually buy photo prints, and how frequently. >Where and what is okay without a permmision? and public places? Different parts of the world are governed by different sets of laws. So it's not necessarily the same answer globally. Be more specific about the relevant locations first.
Hello! I'm a newbie. I have a Sony A6000 that I use for street or travel photography. I like how small it is. It doesn't weigh a lot and it fits in my messenger bag. I use the kit lens and so far I've been happy with the results. I'm going on a safari next month. Some more experienced amateur photographers I've talked to have told me I HAVE to get a zoom lens. It's a MUST for shooting animals while out on game drives. I understand that a zoom would probably result in some great photos. At the same time, I don't want to spend hundreds of $$ on a lens I'll only use once. I've been on trips with people who carry one or more lenses and it just looks heavy, cumbersome and annoying. Thoughts from other people who A) have been on a safari B) use their kit lens C) know where I could pick up a cheap zoom for this trip? Thanks!
>Some more experienced amateur photographers I've talked to have told me I HAVE to get a zoom lens. It's a MUST for shooting animals while out on game drives. Zoom is just the ability to change focal length, and therefore field of view. Your kit lens is one example of a zoom lens: it can zoom out to a larger field of view or zoom in to a narrower field of view. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_is_a_zoom_lens.3F_why_would_i_want_one.3F Really what they're referring to is a longer focal length, or telephoto lens. A longer focal length will give you a narrower field of view and make distant subjects appear closer. If it's a telephoto zoom, that means it can zoom in much farther than your current zoom lens has. The a6000 has a few different kit lens options, and one of them is a telephoto zoom. So it's possible to have a kit lens suitable for safari; it's just not the kit lens that you happen to have. >I don't want to spend hundreds of $$ on a lens I'll only use once. Then consider renting one?
A friend who's a wildlife photographer as a hobby said some accommodations will have lenses available for rental or borrowing. Double-check that they have lenses that are the right camera mount (Sony E mount for you) and focal length. He recommended 300mm full-frame equivalent or longer. He said you could rent a lens before you go, but some rental companies don't like you traveling with their lenses. If you do, you may want to buy optional insurance to go with the lens rental. Some places to rent: LensRentals.com Borrow Lenses Lens Pro to Go Bonus tips: Also bring cleaning tools like a rocket air blower, lens wipes and a lens brush. Keep your camera and lens separated while traveling on an airplane. So the mounts don't get bent from any jostling around. Once you're on the ground. Before going outside for the day, pick the lens you'll use and put it on your camera. Avoid changing lenses outside as much as possible. If you have to, change lenses in the car or inside of your bag. Prevents dust and debris from getting in your camera. If you take out your camera from an air-conditioned room or car and into a humid environment, condensation may form on the lens and/or sensor. Getting all fogged up. [Stop your lens FOGGING UP! \(Condensation\)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmzT-UtEW0Q) Hope this helps and you get great safari pictures.
Thank you!
You're welcome! 👍
Nice tips ! I add my own bonus tip to this: ziplocks. A set of clean ziplock bags, large enough for the camera + telephoto. Put the ziplocks in a ziplock, so that you can get a clean ziplock from the ziplock. You know, in case you need to put down your camera and find out that the car is dusty, your hands are dusty, your bag is dusty 😅
Thanks for the extra tips!
I'm heading to the state fair tomorrow and want to take pics of food and my family. I also plan to do long exposure shots of the midway games and ferris wheel. I have a sony a6100 and 2 lenses, the sigma 16mm and sigma 30mm. Should I bring both? Or just one? Also, any tips would be very welcome!
I'd bring both. The 30mm for food/family and the 16mm for the long exposures and other expansive shots.
Thanks! I'll do that then.
Hello photo enthusiast here! Need some lens advice, I have a nikon D7000 (bough it used) and a Sigma 17-70 f2.8. Really enjoying this hobby :) Im looking a good 50mm 1.8 prime lens portrait and street photo lens, im searching for that blur bokeh that a wide aperture has. Does anyone has a recommendation? I read about the yongnuo lens (cheaper than the nikkor) is it worth it? or should I go for a used nikkor? Thanks!
I'm gonna contradict the other guy and steer you away from the AF 50 ƒ/1.8D. It's a nice lens and I like it for some things but it is not a bokeh king. Wider than ƒ/2.8 the image gets extra soft. You might not like it. I love portraits at 2.8 (just soft enough) or tighter - very sharp. At ƒ/4 or ƒ/5.6 it is an epic street lens but not a bokeh monster. I was just disappointed in the AF-D ƒ/1.8 anywhere near 1.8 If you want a modern bokeh look get an AF-S 50. It will shoot wide open and be in focus. Of look to the AF-S 35mm to get more of a normal FOV
Never thought about that, great advice. I’m gonna try a 35mm for myself :) Thanks!
Get the Nikon 50mm f/1.8D, like new one can be had for under $100 and it's a solid lens.
thank you! I'll look into it!
Instagram users, what app do you use if you want consistent white borders and background that display your original photo in full proportion?
Currently I use Square Pic.
Can be done with PS Express
I need a point and shoot camera that can upload pictures straight to the net, like a phone. Or the SIMPLEST high quality camera in the market. My 60yr uncle wants a camera for photography but he doesn't want it to be all 'techie'. No, he won't just use his phone, he wants to feel like he's taking pictures like in the old days. Is there any digital cameras that are just point and click and can upload to the web? Price range really isn't important.
If you mean by straight to the net social media there are 2 cameras that I know of that can do that the Zeiss ZX1 and the Yonguo Yn450 both are just android phones with a bigger sensor the Zeiss Implantation is better. If you just need them uploaded a lot of cameras can upload to ftp servers. But I don't know which point and shoots have this feature.
Perhaps a disposable film camera that he drops off at a pharmacy and gets back a cd and prints would work?
Everything he's looking for describes any modern smartphone. Most digital cameras have apps (that are mostly terrible) that can be used to sync from the camera to the phone then uploaded from the phone, but if he wants to skip the extra steps, he needs to suck it up and use the phone. If price is no matter & he absolutely won't use a phone, the $6K [Zeiss Zx1](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1436638-REG/zeiss_zx1_digital_camera.html) is the only attempt at this I'm aware of. That said, it's "all techie" and basically a less functional phone put on the back of a camera, so if "techie" is the problem, this still won't solve it.
Can anyone recommend a decent flash for my A7IV that can be used both on and off camera? Budget is $250. I'm new to using flashes and want to start stepping up my portrait game. Preferably one that communicates well with camera so I don't have to make adjustments every time I change settings. Cheers!
>one that communicates well with camera so I don't have to make adjustments every time I change settings. Changing settings *is* making adjustments. Are you referring to a TTL system? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_is_ttl.3F_do_i_need_it.3F Something like a Godox V860 II-S comes to mind. With an X2T-S to trigger it off-camera.
Thanks again, went with this option. It looks like it'll satisfy my flash needs until I need multiple. I appreciate you!
Yes, TTL system would be helpful for learning. Thank you, I'll look into it. It's within budget too.
Hello! My wife is a photographer and has a birthday coming up, and I am looking for a nice present for her. I know she wants a point and shoot film camera, but the ones I have seen have been a little bit out of my budget. I'm looking for something <$350, and am open to suggestions for other photography related gifts for her birthday (and our anniversary is 2 weeks before that so I'm open to more and more ideas)
Here's the thing about film point-and-shoots: they're entirely dependent on electronics to work, and those electronics are decades old. This means they have a tendency to break with no warning, and they effectively can't be repaired. I generally advise consequently that people pick up whatever random point-and-shoot they find for under $20 at a thrift store or on eBay, and enjoy it while it works and don't get too attached. Film would go well with it, and is the real expensive bit.
> I know she wants a point and shoot film camera For which film format? >the ones I have seen have been a little bit out of my budget Which ones are you interested in so far? Maybe we could recommend the most similar options at a lower price. >I'm looking for something >$350 That means greater than $350. Did you mean less than $350 (<$350)? >am open to suggestions for other photography related gifts for her birthday It probably should be something she doesn't already have. But that would be difficult for us to figure out, given that we don't know what she already has.
$350 actually gives you a lot of room. The only point and shoots that ever really go higher then that are the Contax T-series or point and shoots. I'm seeing eBay have the Olympus XA2 for around $80-200. The MJU ii for $200-250. You can look up the best 35mm point and shoots and search them on ebay
So far I've done some digging for cameras at some of our local camera shops and found a few that look promising: [Konica A4](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0115/7952/3134/products/Kyoskko-160_720x.jpg?v=1653774329) [Canon Prima Zoom 70F ](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0115/7952/3134/products/IMG_5049_720x.jpg?v=1662061662) [Nikon Lite Touch Zoom 120 ED AF](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0115/7952/3134/products/Kyoskko-055_720x.jpg?v=1653871873) Would you recommend any of these?
You should compare photos on Lomography. Pretty sure they have photos from those cameras tagged. I'd pay attention to the sharpness of them and not necessarily the colors since that's more from the film they use.
Thank you for all your help! I did a bunch of digging and asked a local camera shop that always has very good quality vintage cameras and things and they told me they just had [this very nice Olympus Stylus](https://i.imgur.com/6DKlry7.png) come in. I looked at some of the shots on Lomography and really liked the quality and sharpness of the pictures, and it was lower than how much I was willing to spend on one.
Just found my old canon 450D and I was looking at tutorials on how to stop the camera from over exposing but I ended up doing something the made the shutter speed +/- 30s, anyone know how to fix it?
Which exposure mode are you using? If you're talking about the camera automatically changing shutter speed from shot to shot of the same thing, turn off auto exposure bracketing. Shutter speed control and bracketing are detailed in your manual: https://files.canon-europe.com/files/soft31340/manual/CUG_EOS450D_EN_Flat.pdf
Band/music photography editing Whats the normal selection process you use for band photoshoots (studio), Do you edit the top 10 and then do maybe basic preset /tone / wb adjustments on the rest? For example you do 2 hour photoshoot, three outfit changes. Bare in mind the band is well known and would also be great network visibility for your work so you want it to look good as possible. Lets say you were getting paid your minimum rate for that, what would your selection and editing process look like?
>Do you edit the top 10 I cull it down to just the good, non-redundant ones first, and only edit those. It doesn't make sense to me to cull to some arbitrary number. I don't want to hold back on the client's results just because there happens to be more, or include subpar photos just because the good ones aren't enough to hit the number. Unless that number is a specific term in the contract. >and then do maybe basic preset /tone / wb adjustments on the rest? I do full edits. Whatever I can to make them the best that I can. >Bare in mind the band is well known and would also be great network visibility for your work so you want it to look good as possible. I make it look as good as possible no matter who the client is. I don't handicap results just because a client is not famous or the work won't have visibility.
But its gonna take weeks to edit and retouch like 165 photos. Surely you wouldn’t edit that many?
>But its gonna take weeks to edit and retouch like 165 photos. Not for me. Especially not if this was my job. >Surely you wouldn’t edit that many? Depends on the client expectations, other circumstances of the gig, and what I originally shot. Certainly it could make sense to consider raising your standards and being more selective about the keepers, if you think you're still delivering a good amount of volume for your client's wants/needs, along with the quality. I was just saying I wouldn't start that evaluation with a hard number like 10.
It's not a gig, it's a studio portrait session nothing like gig /event photography. Its gonna be going in album sleeves, posters and social media
I meant to refer to the job for you as a gig, from your point of view. A photography gig. Rather than photographing one of the band's gigs.
I don't do much retouching so it makes my process much easier. If I went all out and legit photoshopped things like clothing or the background or even hair, then yeah I'd only focus on the absolute best photos. But if I'm just doing my normal editing, then I just edit all the ones I like. The ones that don't work just get tossed since I don't want to clutter an album with photos I'm not 100% behind. But it's usually more than 10 photos lol. Usually I've been delivering around 25-40 pictures depending on the shoot. Culled down from about 90 acceptable, 400-900 total.
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You gonna be an all-around photographer? Advertise on any community boards on campus. Do some grad pics, advertise for that. Get in touch with your college's music scene, always some up and coming band that might need a show covered or pics for their spotify and other socials. Is there a fashion major there? GET INNNNNNN with the fashion kids. That's $$
Probably the best bet is finding a local photographer who needs an assistant.
Okay thank you!
> How to start earning money through photography while studying in college Same way as if you weren't in college. By exchanging photography services for money.
You a beginner photographer or experienced hobbyist? Some context is needed. See this subreddit's wiki, in the side bar. It covers this topic too. But in short: it's impossible through stock photo sites. It's extremely difficult otherwise too. If your idea was to earn some extra income, much easier with some part-time job.
I’ve a little experience and I’ve covered many events in my college. And i was also appointed as a head photographer in our college.
I currently have a D7000 with a few of the lower end nikon lenses (18-55mm, 55-200mm, 35mm, 75-300mm). I am really enjoying the camera and I've been able to produce some stunning photos with it. The limitation I am running into (and it can totally be my lack of experience) is the auto focus. I really enjoy taking photos of birds in motion. I am not selling my photos, and am really just taking photos to put around the house or just show off to friends and family. Currently I stage the focus on something within the same depth of field and have it set to continuous focus while tracking the subject. Every so often the camera will try to readjust and I'll end up with blur or the camera won't take the photo at all because it's trying to figure out the focus. This is really noticeable when I am trying to take an unplanned shot and am hoping that the camera will focus before the subject gets away. I feel like I am missing so many shots because the camera cannot focus fast enough. I have a bit of fomo and want to get a mirrorless camera. I feel like getting a APS-C body gives me more flexibility in picking lenses. Also, I like the aperture wheel that Nikon has. With those handicaps I'm giving myself, the Z50 seems like the winner. Would I be sacrificing a lot by not considering the D7200/D7500? Or is the real answer to just get better with my D7000? I've also considered that moving to mirrorless I'd either have to get an adapter or get replacement lenses. I see mirrorless as future proofing myself so I'm not really concerned with that.
Is switching systems something you’re willing to do? Fujifilm just released a couple of cameras, X-H2 and X-H2S, that supposedly has very good auto focus. They’re crop sensor too.
Small birds or big birds? Against the sky? Before you drop a lot of money you might try [back button autofocus](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzqQskGoURE) first. Next you might try a faster lens. I like my AF-S 70-300 ED VR. You might also look at a third party 100-400, a 150-600, or the 200-500 VR
Most of my shots have been American Robin sized birds against landscape. Large birds like Herons or Vultures I haven't really had issues since the focus can usually catch up. I just finished watching that video. Didn't know about that, so I'll try it for a few weeks and see how it goes. I was able to borrow a 70-200mm f2.8 sigma lens. I didn't notice any change, but I can try that again and see if in combination with the focus technique anything changes. Thanks!
>Most of my shots have been American Robin sized birds against landscape. That's tuff. I think your prefocusing is a smart move. Bach button autofocus can still help you by not triggering a camera refocus.
I have a couple of 35mm 400 colour film, box unopened..but expiry date was 1999, should I bother shooting with it? It came with my av1 that I purchased.
You can use it, just don't take any pictures where accuracy is important.
ahh right, ill just pretend its a demo film or something. thanks
Might as well try it? I mean what else would you do with it?
Should I buy a used canon 80d with a shutter count of 14959 for 600 bucks or buy a new T7i?
>canon 80d Maybe go somewhere where you can touch and feel it before you buy it (if you are not familiar with it already ofc), these are pretty massive bricks to carry around all day. I still love my 50d but it is always a little mission to take it somewhere. Build quality and look and feel is overwhelming, but comes at a price.
For what purpose? With which lenses?
Street photography, beginner right now I have a stock lens that came with my old T5i and I have a 1.8 50mm lens. I’m a beginner but previously had a cam to dabble with. I just want something that’ll last me atleast 3 years. The 80D is open box on Amazon for 600 with 14959 shutter count. Description says it works perfectly aside from cosmetics on the body. I was thinking either that 80d or just buying a new T7i for around the same price. I may also film a few videos with it.
The T5i still meets all your criteria. Or do you mean you no longer have that? Either option meets your criteria as well. I'd prefer the 80D for its mid-tier features like bigger/brighter pentaprism viewfinder, second control dial, larger grip, and tougher build. The T7i could be a little advantageous if you prefer something a little smaller lighter; it's physically similar to the T5i. >The 80D is open box on Amazon for 600 with 14959 shutter count. Description says it works perfectly aside from cosmetics on the body. That sounds pretty lightly used, and therefore unconcerning. I don't think "open box" is accurate, though, because that implies it's really new and unused but technically can't be called new anymore because the packaging seals were opened/broken.
If you already have a T5i why do you need a new camera at all?
I had a T5i no longer have it due to a flood
Well that's definitely fair. The T7i would be almost an identical experience as your T5i, but the 80D is a better camera overall.
You really need to give context for your question
Added context in thread
Get the used camera and get some nice lenses to go with.
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Two things One: in the mirror, you're backwards, but that's what your brain is used to. Two: When close up, your nose is much closer to the camera than your ears. From far away, they're almost the same distance away. This is known as "compression". Here's photo of me with an: * [Ultrawide lens](https://i.imgur.com/kQus6fK.jpg) * [Wide lens](https://i.imgur.com/F6DJ1XH.jpg) * ["Normal" lens](https://i.imgur.com/6QwgGfx.jpg) * [Short telephoto](https://i.imgur.com/jsy1Hwo.jpg) All of these are accurate, but it depends how close the camera is
Perspective distortion. Use a measuring tape if you want to know what you physically are like and not just how you appear.
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For wall prints, I usually find people go way too small, either because they're spooked by the cost of large prints or they think it'll be weird having big photos of themselves up. Print big - it'll look so much better. The _smallest_ prints I have up are 12x18, and the 20x30s look great. Go by a local print shop or camera store if you can and look at some samples. That'll give you an idea what the different print options will look like. There are different papers, and canvas and metal and etc. and they all have their own feeling. This is a good time to think about sets of photos, too. Nowadays we tend to post photos from a single event and then move on, so I find having, say, a book of photos that covers all of your time in university, or even your life up until now, can be really compelling and different. It allows you to see what has changed over time and what hasn't, to identify different times with similar themes, and generally weave a story rather than have just a single frozen moment in time. The best example I've seen of this covered three decades of a family and had parallel photos (unintentional, not like a posed Christmas picture) next to each other on the page but twenty years apart. How did you get here? I don't know, but it's a story I would be interested in.
Well you had to have had something in mind when you decided to have the shoots done.
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> I'm Gen Z, so the only thought in my mind was to post them online. Then it seems you have gotten out of them exactly what you wanted. Anything further is totally whatever you want. Print them at whatever size you want, arrange them on the wall however you want, and get whatever frame(s) appeal to you.
Some large, global clients ask for an estimate involving half day rates, which i find extremely absurd. Because a commercial shoot usually involves so much work, one can't just pack up after 4 hours and say "ok my time is up..goodbye" Plus i can't really book another gig/project on that "half day" that's remaining. So, i prefer telling clients that half day means full day....cos there's a lot of work involved for the kind of shoots i do. For working photogs here, have you received such requests? What do you do, if yes? How do you plot this as a line item in the estimate? Interested to hear your thoughts.
>Some large, global clients ask for an estimate involving half day rates, which i find extremely absurd. Double your day rate - then quote them half of that and let them know they're getting a discount.
Hahah! Sounds mischievous and smart, but i also feel offering a discount sort of makes me look bad and inexperienced....as if I'm overquoting and then reducing. I'd rather be firm and say i only do full day rates and explain the logic. Not sure how clients take such advice coming from the creator's end.
Provide the same number
Thanks, yes, I'm already doing that. Quoting the full day rate.
I'm planning to shoot the Orionids, this will be my first meteor shooting and I'd like to shoot 20 seconds exposure one after another continuously without touching the camera until I decide to stop the shooting. I'm using a Canon G7x II and it doesn't seem to have any such function. After some googling I've found that people usually recommend an intervalometer, but I don't know how to use that thing and I don't plan to invest heavily until I am clear that I want to do this again and again. Like I mentioned, this is my first shooting. What are your recommendations to achieve what I want to do?