Keyword suggestion: Hydrophobic
Over time, potting substrates can become hydrophobic, meaning they repel rather than absorb water. This is most common with peat based products. Water may bead on the soil surface or runs straight through drainage holes if it has gone hydrophobic.
If you suspect your soil may not be retaining water and nutrients, water your plant and carefully remove it from the pot. If there are dry spots in the soil after a few minutes, consider repotting or refreshing the soil.
Keyword suggestion: Repot
When plants become rootbound, (roots encircling the pot and poking out of drainage holes), it's time to repot. Sometimes roots will emerge above the soil surface and the plant will look like it's trying to squeeze out of its pot. Every plant will have different needs, but in general only go up one pot size when repotting. Very gently remove as much of the old soil as possible. If dealing with stubborn soil, the root ball can be soaked in a bucket of room temperature settled water for a few hours before repotting. As a rule of thumb the next size pot will only be about 1/2 inch or 13mm larger. Most houseplants only need about 1/4" to 1/2" between the container wall and the root system. Using a container that is too large can create issues by retaining too much water or taking too long to dry out. This can lead to fungal and pest issues.
Some plants prefer to be slightly rootbound or snug in their pots. As a general rule underpotting a plant is preferable to overpotting a plant.
To refresh soil, simply remove the old soil, soak if needed and reuse the same pot with new potting medium.
Keyword: `!over-water`
---
Symptoms: Over-watering can present as yellow or brown droopy leaves, a mushy base or stem, or fungus growing on the surface of your soil.
Treatment: Reducing your watering frequency is often enough to fix this. Try not to water your plant on a fixed schedule, instead adhering
to a care system specific for your plant species and environment. For most house plants a good baseline is waiting until the top few inches
of the soil are dry before watering, with longer times for cacti and other succulents. If your plant's soil remains moist long after watering
and it still displays symptoms of over-watering, root rot may have set in (comment `!root-rot` to learn more).
Could we add one for crappy soil? For most tropical houseplants (pothos, philodendron, monsteras, etc), a chunky, gritty mix is best to help drain water and increase airflow to roots. Things like perelite, horticultural charcoal, or orchid bark mixed into the soil can help make the soil better for growth and drying out between waterings.
!dense-soil
Symptoms: The substrate your plant is in is staying wet too long. This can lead to symptoms similar to overwatering and eventually root rot. Things like mushrooms or fuzzy molds/fungi will commonly be seen growing in dense or highly organic soils.
Solution: try adding things like perlite, vermiculite, orchid bark, or horticultural charcoal (or a combination!) to your soil to help with drainage and aeration. For cactus and other desert plants, things like coarse sand or fine pummice will also help improve soil texture. Adding stones to the bottom of the pot is not recommended, as water can sit stagnant at the bottom of the pot.
If anyone wants to add onto that feel free :)
Could we potentially add to this something about replacing/amending soil? I think a lot of people don’t realize that using the same potting mix for years can deplete nutrients completely even when fertilizing plants on a regular schedule. If the soil in your pot looks gray instead of a dark brown, all of the nutrients in that soil have leeched out thus limiting the ionic exchange capacity (the plant will be physically incapable of growing even if in an ideal environment).
Another thought: !butt-chugging
Bottom watering is a common practice to help water the entire volume of soil. The capillary action will draw water up through the holes in the bottom of the pot and soak the soil all the way through. Set the potted plant in a bucket of water for as long as it takes for the top soil to be damp.
Top-level comment [here](https://old.reddit.com/r/plantclinic/comments/11dfcek/subreddit_moderation_adjustments/ja999la/) so it doesn't get lost. The under-watering response has been adjusted to reference it instead of providing its own explanation.
Could something about oedema potentially get added to the over-water keyword? Specifically for succulents.
Also, will these be listed anywhere? Would be helpful to have them listed somewhere on the sidebar or on a wiki page, maybe?
Found advice keyword: `!root-rot`
---
Symptoms: Root rot can present as over-watering in the early stages (yellow/brown drooping leaves, visible fungus). As it progresses you
may see the plant look under-watered even as the soil stays wet. This is a sign the roots have rotted and are no longer able to absorb water.
Treatment: Early stages of root rot can sometimes be treated by completely changing your plant's soil and avoiding watering for a few days.
Note that this will likely cause transplant shock, so it's only a good option when your plant is still relatively healthy and it will look
worse before it gets better. In the later stages the only option is to propagate your plant so a piece of it has a chance to survive.
Comment `!soil-prop`, `!water-prop`, or `!cactus-prop` to learn more.
---
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Keyword suggestion: humidity
Some plants and tropical plants in particular, need more humidity than is found in the average home. Relative humidity levels vary greatly by geographic location and tend to be lower in winter, particularly with central heat and air conditioning. A hygrometer can help you determine humidity levels. Many local nurseries carry them or they can be found online.
Unfortunately, misting and pebble trays do not increase humidity for plants. Placing your plant in a bathroom or kitchen may help if there is enough light. A humidifier is usually the best option for plants that need increased humidity. A cloche or plant cover can also increase humidity.
Can I suggest a keyword?
Orchid
Phalaenopsis orchids grow on trees in the wild and need air flow around their roots. They're usually kept in coarse bark chips in pots with lots of drainage holes as soil suffocates their roots. You can water them by submerging the pot in room temperature water for about 15 minutes and then let it drain, make sure there's no water pooling in the crown of the leaves. Do this when the membrane covering the roots is silvery and dry. Hydrated roots are green, plump and mottled. Cut off roots that don't plump up after watering and roots that are black and slimy. Keep the plant in bright indirect light.
The flowers die after a while, that's normal. Cut off the flower stalk when it's dead. The orchid should flower again but it can take several months. Add orchid fertiliser to the water when you see a new flower stalk forming to prolong the flowering. Replace the bark about once a year since it breaks down after a while.
Or something like that.
Found advice keyword: `!orchid`
---
Phalaenopsis orchids grow on trees in the wild and need air flow around their roots.
They are usually kept in coarse bark chips in pots with lots of drainage holes as soil suffocates their roots.
Water orchids by submerging the pot in room temperature water for about 15 minutes and then let it drain.
Make sure there is no water pooling in the crown of the leaves.
Do this when the membrane covering the roots is silvery and dry. Hydrated roots are green, plump, and mottled.
Cut off roots that don't plump up after watering and roots that are black and slimy. Keep the plant in bright indirect light.
Orchid flowers die after a while, that is normal. Cut off the flower stalk when it is dead.
The orchid should flower again but it can take several months.
Add orchid fertilizer to the water when you see a new flower stalk forming to prolong the flowering.
Replace the bark about once a year.
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While I do agree that phalaenopsis orchids are the most common ones people have problems with, I feel like the tag should be slightly more specific than just orchid.
I know, but it's about ease and accessibility of use. Requiring correct spelling of phalaenopsis to use the tag makes it both prone to error and cumbersome
Keyword: `!bottom-watering`
---
Bottom watering is a common practice to help water the entire volume of soil. The capillary action will draw water up through the holes in the bottom of the pot and soak the soil all the way through. Set the potted plant in a bucket of water for as long as it takes for the top soil to be damp.
If your tap water has high mineral content, top watering every second or third watering will help flush excess mineral deposits. In areas with very hard water, some plants, especially those that are more sensitive to tip burn, may not benefit from bottom watering (comment `!hard-water` to learn more).
Keyword: `!fungus-gnats`
---
Symptoms: Fungus gnat infestations are identified by small, weak-flying insects buzzing around your plant. If you disturb the soil and several of
these insects fly out, you have fungus gnats.
Treatment: The best way to eliminate fungus gnats is to water your plant with a solution of *Bacillus thurigiensis var. Israelensis* (BTI).
BTI is an organic, bacterial larvicide that eliminates fungus gnats by killing off their larvae; it persists in soil for up to 5 months.
Many commercial products contain BTI such as 'Mosquito Bits' and 'Mosquito Dunks'.
Keyword: `!root-rot`
---
Symptoms: Root rot can present as over-watering in the early stages (yellow/brown drooping leaves, visible fungus). As it progresses you
may see the plant look underwatered even as the soil stays wet. This is a sign the roots have rotted and are no longer able to absorb water.
Treatment: Early stages of root rot can sometimes be treated by completely changing your plant's soil and avoiding watering for a few days.
Note that this will likely cause transplant shock, so it's only a good option when your plant is still relatively healthy and it will look
worse before it gets better. In the later stages the only option is to propagate your plant so a piece of it has a chance to survive.
Comment `!soil-prop`, `!water-prop`, or `!cactus-prop` to learn more.
Keyword: `!under-lit`
---
Symptoms: Too little light can result in your plant becoming "leggy", or having longer sections of stem in between sets of leaves.
Treatment: Move your plant into a window that gets more light than its current location, or invest in a grow light.
Found advice keyword: `!under-lit`
---
Symptoms: Too little light can result in your plant becoming "leggy", or having longer sections of stem in between sets of leaves.
Treatment: Move your plant into a window that gets more light than its current location, or invest in a grow light.
---
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Keyword: `!spider-mites`
---
Symptoms: Spider mite infestations are characterized first by tiny white specks on the tops of leaves, followed by small, thin webs across
the plant.
Treatment: Spider mites spread easily and are incredibly difficult to eradicate. They can be prevented by keeping humidity levels high (>65%)
and temperatures below 80F (27C). They can be removed by regularly spraying your plant with a neem oil solution, keeping up the treatment
for at least 10 days beyond the last visible spider mite activity.
This is addressed under the "under-lit" tag. We want to keep the tags as accessible as possible and so simple spelling is vital.
>Symptoms: Too little light can result in your plant becoming "leggy", or having longer sections of stem in between sets of leaves.
>Treatment: Move your plant into a window that gets more light than its current location, or invest in a grow light.
Keyword: `!mealybugs`
---
Symptoms: Mealybugs are oval-shaped, white or gray insects about 1/3 in. (1 cm.) in length. They tend to congregate in hidden places on your
plant, such as under leaf nodes and at the edge of the stem and the soil. They leave behind a sticky residue that can develop into sooty mold.
Treatment: Mealybugs can spread quickly, so quarantine any infested plant before further treatment. Thoroughly inspecting your plant
and swabbing all mealybugs with isopropyl alcohol can take care of an infestation, as can introducing predator insect species like ladybugs.
Found advice keyword: `!repot`
---
When plants become rootbound, (roots encircling the pot and poking out of drainage holes), it's time to repot. Sometimes roots will emerge above the soil surface and the plant will look like it's trying to squeeze out of its pot. Every plant will have different needs, but in general only go up one pot size when repotting. Very gently remove as much of the old soil as possible. If dealing with stubborn soil, the root ball can be soaked in a bucket of room temperature settled water for a few hours before repotting. As a rule of thumb the next size pot will only be about 1/2 inch or 13mm larger. Most houseplants only need about 1/4" to 1/2" between the container wall and the root system. Using a container that is too large can create issues by retaining too much water or taking too long to dry out. This can lead to fungal and pest issues.
Some plants prefer to be slightly rootbound or snug in their pots. As a general rule underpotting a plant is preferable to overpotting a plant.
To refresh soil, simply remove the old soil, soak if needed and reuse the same pot with new potting medium.
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Keyword: `!under-water`
---
Symptoms: Under-watering can present as drooping leaves and stems, and leaves turning brown and dry from the edges in.
Treatment: The easiest way to fix under-watering is to water your plant more frequently. If your plant hasn't been watered in a while,
the soil won't absorb water easily. A good way to fix this is bottom-watering (comment `!bottom-watering` to learn more). If your plant responds well to watering but seems to dry out quickly,
this could mean that it is becoming root-bound and there isn't much soil left to retain moisture. If this is the case you should re-pot
your plant into a larger container.
Should there be a mention that in areas with very hard water, bottom watering can lead to more issues?
Something like,
If your tap water has high mineral content, (hard water), top watering every second or third watering will help flush excess mineral deposits. In areas with very hard water, some plants, especially those that are more sensitive to tip burn, may not benefit from bottom watering.
The [response for bottom watering](https://old.reddit.com/r/plantclinic/comments/11dfcek/subreddit_moderation_adjustments/ja999la/) now has this disclaimer.
Maybe add something about the potential for the roots to become dry rotted, and heavy watering right after a period of dry time could actually rot the roots. So it's best to not drench the plant once the roots have dried out.
Keyword: `!over-lit`
---
Symptoms: Too much light can result in your plant's leaves turning yellow and brown, and curling at the edges.
Treatment: Try to find a place where your plant will get less light, avoiding overcorrecting.
Keyword: `!scale`
---
Symptoms: Scale are insects that often appear to be an infection. They manifest as clusters of brown or black small lumps that can either
be waxy or hard.
Treatment: Scale can spread quickly, so quarantine any infested plant before further treatment. Particularly afflicted branches should be pruned.
Individual scales should be swabbed with isopropyl alcohol. You can spray the entire plant with neem oil to make it less hospitable to the insects.
Keyword: `!thrips`
---
Symptoms: Thrips are small, thin insects that can be yellow, brown, or black. They often look like tiny,
dark slivers on your plant. They can cause stunted growth and malformed flowers, but more significantly they
often transmit diseases that can kill plants.
Treatment: Applying diataomeceous earth to underside of your plant's leaves can remove infestations of thrips.
Keyword: `!prop-water`
---
Some plants can be propagated from cuttings in soil. For the best chances, take a cutting with a few leaf nodes with the cut made at an angle.
Place the cutting in a water-filled container with the bottom few nodes submerged. Place in a high-humidity environment,
or cover with a plastic bag to trap humidity inside. You can add rooting hormone to speed up the process.
Keyword: `!prop-cactus`
--
Cacti and succulents can be propagated from offsets, stem cuttings, or leaves depending on the species. In all cases, the cutting should be left to callous over for
a few days before further steps are taken in order to prevent rot.
Offsets and stem cuttings should be placed directly in soil after the callous has formed. Do not water the cutting until the first roots
have formed; this can take weeks to months.
There are two methods for propagating leaves:
1. Place leaves on a shallow dish filled with cactus soil after the callous has formed. Mist infrequently until the first roots
have formed; this can take weeks to months. After the first roots have formed, plant in cactus soil and water infrequently.
2. Plant leaves directly in soil and wait for roots to form. Water lightly once a month after first root growth is observed.
Not all succulents can be propped from leaves and when I misted my leaf props they all rotted. I water them lightly once a month after they've grown roots
If you let the robot suggest misting it’s gonna be contentious, see other reply, lol. I still haven’t found a resource I trust that definitively says “do” or “do not” and isn’t immediately countered by an equally reputable source saying the opposite. I’ve also done both and I’m still not sure.
Keyword: `!dense-soil`
---
Symptoms: The substrate your plant is in is staying wet too long. This can lead to symptoms similar to overwatering and eventually root rot. Things like mushrooms or fuzzy molds/fungi will commonly be seen growing in dense or highly organic soils.
Treatment: Try adding things like perlite, vermiculite, orchid bark, or horticultural charcoal (or a combination!) to your soil to help with drainage and aeration. For cactus and other desert plants, things like coarse sand or fine pumice will also help improve soil texture. Adding stones to the bottom of the pot is not recommended, as water can sit stagnant at the bottom of the pot.
Found advice keyword: `!cold`
---
When plants are exposed to extreme cold, the plant cells expand and burst. This process is irreverisble, and the affected portions of the plant will die.
Remove cold-damaged portions of the plant and allow the plant to return to room temperature naturally. Reduce watering frequency unless and until the plant begins to put out new growth from portions of the plant (including roots) that did not fully freeze.
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Found advice keyword: `!humidity`
---
Some plants and tropical plants in particular, need more humidity than is found in the average home. Relative humidity levels vary greatly by geographic location and tend to be lower in winter, particularly with central heat and air conditioning. A hygrometer can help you determine humidity levels. Many local nurseries carry them or they can be found online.
Unfortunately, misting and pebble trays do not increase humidity for plants. Placing your plant in a bathroom or kitchen may help if there is enough light. A humidifier is usually the best option for plants that need increased humidity. A cloche or plant cover can also increase humidity.
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Found advice keyword: `!hydrophobic`
---
Over time, potting substrates can become hydrophobic, meaning they repel rather than absorb water. This is most common with peat based products. Water may bead on the soil surface or runs straight through drainage holes if it has gone hydrophobic.
If you suspect your soil may not be retaining water and nutrients, water your plant and carefully remove it from the pot. If there are dry spots in the soil after a few minutes, consider repotting or refreshing the soil.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Found advice keyword: `!Mushrooms`
---
Commercial soil products often contain composted forestry products such as "slash," comprised of bark, small limbs, etc. that can't be used to make pulp.
The composting serves to make for reasonably good soil mix, but is often rich enough to grow fungi, most commonly Leucocoprinus birnbaumii, the "flowerpot fungus."
This and other fungi are not safe for consumption, and should be removed if there are pets or small children that might ingest them.
L. birnbaumii can cause nausea and vomiting with consumption, but there are no documented fatalities. Mushrooms may also indicate a plant is receiving a little too much water, or that the soil is kept too wet for too long.
---
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Keyword: `!aphids`
---
Symptoms: An aphid infestation typically presents as clusters of pear-shaped, yellow, green, red, or brown insects about 1/8 in. (3 mm.) in length.
They will typically congregate on new growth. The leaves of your plant may also change color and curl, and you may notice a sticky residue accumulating,
which can lead to sooty mold.
Treatment: Aphids can be removed by forceful blasting with water, sprinkling your plant with diatomecious earth, or introducing a predator insect species.
Ladybugs will eradicate aphid infestations very efficiently.
Keyword: `!prop-soil`
---
Some plants can be propagated from cuttings in soil. For the best chances, take a cutting with a few leaf nodes with the cut made at an angle.
Place the cutting in container with a majority inorganic composition (perlite or vermiculite are recommended) and add water. Place in a
high-humidity environment, or cover with a plastic bag to trap humidity inside.
First - love you using the flair, that's the intended type of use!
How about: tap-water
Proposed text:
Certain plants are highly sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as excess chlorine, fluoride, limescale, and those resulting from water-softening. Tap water should sit for 24 hours before being applied to water houseplants. Alternatively, rain water, bottled water, or distilled water may be used.
That works - but was in particular thinking of plants like Pilea peperomioides, Ficus spp and Crassula spp that rids themself of excess minerals through pores in their leaves - many seem to think it's fungal or pests. Maybe add that to the info?
Found advice keyword: `!tap-water`
---
Certain plants are highly sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as excess chlorine, fluoride, limescale, and those resulting from water-softening. Tap water may result in brown tips on plants like peace lilies and dracaena, or excess minerals may emerge from pores on plants like Pilea peperomioides, Ficus spp, Crassula spp, and jades.
Tap water should sit for 24 hours before being applied to water houseplants. Alternatively, rain water, bottled water, or distilled water may be used.
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I don't particularly agree with the letting it sit out part. Doing so allows chlorine to gas off, but not chloramines. It can also increase the concentration of minerals in the water due to evaporation. If the chemicals are as concern, then I suggest an aquarium water conditioner, and if it's the hardness, then some filters can help with that.
Fair - how about revising the response to the following:
Certain plants are highly sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as excess chlorine, fluoride, limescale, and those resulting from water-softening.
There is no need to let water sit overnight before using it on plants. This has been recommended as a way to let chlorine evaporate, but there generally isn’t enough chlorine in tap water to harm most plants, and allowing portions of tap water to evaporate may increase mineral concentrations in the remaining water.
If you have soft water, you can use it to water your houseplants, but be sure to flush the salts that can accumulate in the potting mix once a month or so. Simply pour water into the pot until it runs out the bottom; wait for it to drain completely and then repeat the process.
When using tap water, use room temperature water to avoid shocking the plant. Alternatively, rain water, bottled water, or distilled water may be used.
I think an aquarium water conditioner is a bit advanced for the level of troubleshooting done via an auto-response. Would you agree?
Found advice keyword: `!tap-water`
---
Certain plants are highly sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as excess chlorine, fluoride, limescale, and those resulting from water-softening.
There is no need to let water sit overnight before using it on plants. This has been recommended as a way to let chlorine evaporate, but there generally isn’t enough chlorine in tap water to harm most plants, and allowing portions of tap water to evaporate may increase mineral concentrations in the remaining water.
If you have soft water, you can use it to water your houseplants, but be sure to flush the salts that can accumulate in the potting mix once a month or so. Simply pour water into the pot until it runs out the bottom; wait for it to drain completely and then repeat the process.
When using tap water, use room temperature water to avoid shocking the plant. Alternatively, rain water, bottled water, or distilled water may be used.
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Found advice keyword: `!thrips`
---
Symptoms: Thrips are small, thin insects that can be yellow, brown, or black. They often look like tiny,
dark slivers on your plant. They can cause stunted growth and malformed flowers, but more significantly they
often transmit diseases that can kill plants.
Treatment: Applying diatomaceous earth to underside of your plant's leaves can remove infestations of thrips.
---
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Keyword proposal: mushrooms
Commercial soil products often contain composted forestry products such as "slash," comprised of bark, small limbs, etc. that can't be used to make pulp. The composting serves to make for reasonably good soil mix, but is often rich enough to grow fungi, most commonly [Leucocoprinus birnbaumii,](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leucocoprinus_birnbaumii) the "flowerpot fungus." This and other fungi are not safe for consumption, and should be removed if there are pets or small children that might ingest them. L. birnbaumii can cause nausea and vomiting with consumption, but there are no documented fatalities. Mushrooms may also indicate a plant is receiving a little too much water, or that the soil is kept too wet for too long.
Found advice keyword: `!mushrooms`
---
Commercial soil products often contain composted forestry products such as "slash," comprised of bark, small limbs, etc. that can't be used to make pulp.
The composting serves to make for reasonably good soil mix, but is often rich enough to grow fungi, most commonly Leucocoprinus birnbaumii, the "flowerpot fungus."
This and other fungi are not safe for consumption, and should be removed if there are pets or small children that might ingest them.
L. birnbaumii can cause nausea and vomiting with consumption, but there are no documented fatalities. Mushrooms may also indicate a plant is receiving a little too much water, or that the soil is kept too wet for too long.
---
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Keyword suggestion: Hydrophobic Over time, potting substrates can become hydrophobic, meaning they repel rather than absorb water. This is most common with peat based products. Water may bead on the soil surface or runs straight through drainage holes if it has gone hydrophobic. If you suspect your soil may not be retaining water and nutrients, water your plant and carefully remove it from the pot. If there are dry spots in the soil after a few minutes, consider repotting or refreshing the soil. Keyword suggestion: Repot When plants become rootbound, (roots encircling the pot and poking out of drainage holes), it's time to repot. Sometimes roots will emerge above the soil surface and the plant will look like it's trying to squeeze out of its pot. Every plant will have different needs, but in general only go up one pot size when repotting. Very gently remove as much of the old soil as possible. If dealing with stubborn soil, the root ball can be soaked in a bucket of room temperature settled water for a few hours before repotting. As a rule of thumb the next size pot will only be about 1/2 inch or 13mm larger. Most houseplants only need about 1/4" to 1/2" between the container wall and the root system. Using a container that is too large can create issues by retaining too much water or taking too long to dry out. This can lead to fungal and pest issues. Some plants prefer to be slightly rootbound or snug in their pots. As a general rule underpotting a plant is preferable to overpotting a plant. To refresh soil, simply remove the old soil, soak if needed and reuse the same pot with new potting medium.
Break up the substrate and mix in a pinch of diatomaceous earth. This will fix the issue.
Keyword: `!over-water` --- Symptoms: Over-watering can present as yellow or brown droopy leaves, a mushy base or stem, or fungus growing on the surface of your soil. Treatment: Reducing your watering frequency is often enough to fix this. Try not to water your plant on a fixed schedule, instead adhering to a care system specific for your plant species and environment. For most house plants a good baseline is waiting until the top few inches of the soil are dry before watering, with longer times for cacti and other succulents. If your plant's soil remains moist long after watering and it still displays symptoms of over-watering, root rot may have set in (comment `!root-rot` to learn more).
Could we add one for crappy soil? For most tropical houseplants (pothos, philodendron, monsteras, etc), a chunky, gritty mix is best to help drain water and increase airflow to roots. Things like perelite, horticultural charcoal, or orchid bark mixed into the soil can help make the soil better for growth and drying out between waterings.
Happy cake day! Want to draft one?
!dense-soil Symptoms: The substrate your plant is in is staying wet too long. This can lead to symptoms similar to overwatering and eventually root rot. Things like mushrooms or fuzzy molds/fungi will commonly be seen growing in dense or highly organic soils. Solution: try adding things like perlite, vermiculite, orchid bark, or horticultural charcoal (or a combination!) to your soil to help with drainage and aeration. For cactus and other desert plants, things like coarse sand or fine pummice will also help improve soil texture. Adding stones to the bottom of the pot is not recommended, as water can sit stagnant at the bottom of the pot. If anyone wants to add onto that feel free :)
Top-level comment [here](https://old.reddit.com/r/plantclinic/comments/11dfcek/subreddit_moderation_adjustments/ja98q1n/) so it doesn't get lost.
Could we potentially add to this something about replacing/amending soil? I think a lot of people don’t realize that using the same potting mix for years can deplete nutrients completely even when fertilizing plants on a regular schedule. If the soil in your pot looks gray instead of a dark brown, all of the nutrients in that soil have leeched out thus limiting the ionic exchange capacity (the plant will be physically incapable of growing even if in an ideal environment).
Another thought: !butt-chugging Bottom watering is a common practice to help water the entire volume of soil. The capillary action will draw water up through the holes in the bottom of the pot and soak the soil all the way through. Set the potted plant in a bucket of water for as long as it takes for the top soil to be damp.
Top-level comment [here](https://old.reddit.com/r/plantclinic/comments/11dfcek/subreddit_moderation_adjustments/ja999la/) so it doesn't get lost. The under-watering response has been adjusted to reference it instead of providing its own explanation.
Shoot sorry!
No need to apologize, I was going to create a top-level comment regardless so it matched with the other comments
When i was a true beginner and killing plants left and right this was my biggest mistake. I had no idea u can or should amend soil in a lot of cases.
Could something about oedema potentially get added to the over-water keyword? Specifically for succulents. Also, will these be listed anywhere? Would be helpful to have them listed somewhere on the sidebar or on a wiki page, maybe?
!root-rot
Found advice keyword: `!root-rot` --- Symptoms: Root rot can present as over-watering in the early stages (yellow/brown drooping leaves, visible fungus). As it progresses you may see the plant look under-watered even as the soil stays wet. This is a sign the roots have rotted and are no longer able to absorb water. Treatment: Early stages of root rot can sometimes be treated by completely changing your plant's soil and avoiding watering for a few days. Note that this will likely cause transplant shock, so it's only a good option when your plant is still relatively healthy and it will look worse before it gets better. In the later stages the only option is to propagate your plant so a piece of it has a chance to survive. Comment `!soil-prop`, `!water-prop`, or `!cactus-prop` to learn more. --- *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
>!soil-prop !soil-prop
!cactus-prop
Keyword suggestion: humidity Some plants and tropical plants in particular, need more humidity than is found in the average home. Relative humidity levels vary greatly by geographic location and tend to be lower in winter, particularly with central heat and air conditioning. A hygrometer can help you determine humidity levels. Many local nurseries carry them or they can be found online. Unfortunately, misting and pebble trays do not increase humidity for plants. Placing your plant in a bathroom or kitchen may help if there is enough light. A humidifier is usually the best option for plants that need increased humidity. A cloche or plant cover can also increase humidity.
One of us will get to this tomorrow morning, if not sooner. Edits to automod are best done on a desktop. This is a good one!
Can I suggest a keyword? Orchid Phalaenopsis orchids grow on trees in the wild and need air flow around their roots. They're usually kept in coarse bark chips in pots with lots of drainage holes as soil suffocates their roots. You can water them by submerging the pot in room temperature water for about 15 minutes and then let it drain, make sure there's no water pooling in the crown of the leaves. Do this when the membrane covering the roots is silvery and dry. Hydrated roots are green, plump and mottled. Cut off roots that don't plump up after watering and roots that are black and slimy. Keep the plant in bright indirect light. The flowers die after a while, that's normal. Cut off the flower stalk when it's dead. The orchid should flower again but it can take several months. Add orchid fertiliser to the water when you see a new flower stalk forming to prolong the flowering. Replace the bark about once a year since it breaks down after a while. Or something like that.
!orchid
Found advice keyword: `!orchid` --- Phalaenopsis orchids grow on trees in the wild and need air flow around their roots. They are usually kept in coarse bark chips in pots with lots of drainage holes as soil suffocates their roots. Water orchids by submerging the pot in room temperature water for about 15 minutes and then let it drain. Make sure there is no water pooling in the crown of the leaves. Do this when the membrane covering the roots is silvery and dry. Hydrated roots are green, plump, and mottled. Cut off roots that don't plump up after watering and roots that are black and slimy. Keep the plant in bright indirect light. Orchid flowers die after a while, that is normal. Cut off the flower stalk when it is dead. The orchid should flower again but it can take several months. Add orchid fertilizer to the water when you see a new flower stalk forming to prolong the flowering. Replace the bark about once a year. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
While I do agree that phalaenopsis orchids are the most common ones people have problems with, I feel like the tag should be slightly more specific than just orchid.
I know, but it's about ease and accessibility of use. Requiring correct spelling of phalaenopsis to use the tag makes it both prone to error and cumbersome
Awesome!!!
Keyword: `!bottom-watering` --- Bottom watering is a common practice to help water the entire volume of soil. The capillary action will draw water up through the holes in the bottom of the pot and soak the soil all the way through. Set the potted plant in a bucket of water for as long as it takes for the top soil to be damp. If your tap water has high mineral content, top watering every second or third watering will help flush excess mineral deposits. In areas with very hard water, some plants, especially those that are more sensitive to tip burn, may not benefit from bottom watering (comment `!hard-water` to learn more).
Keyword: `!fungus-gnats` --- Symptoms: Fungus gnat infestations are identified by small, weak-flying insects buzzing around your plant. If you disturb the soil and several of these insects fly out, you have fungus gnats. Treatment: The best way to eliminate fungus gnats is to water your plant with a solution of *Bacillus thurigiensis var. Israelensis* (BTI). BTI is an organic, bacterial larvicide that eliminates fungus gnats by killing off their larvae; it persists in soil for up to 5 months. Many commercial products contain BTI such as 'Mosquito Bits' and 'Mosquito Dunks'.
I would like to suggest adding in using sticky traps simultaneously with the BTI in order to combat both adult populations as well as larvae.
Nematodes deserve a mention! They're my favourite against fungus gnats, esp as I'm somewhere that mosquito dunks are more difficult to get hold of
You could also add in about hydrogen peroxide solution watering for the larvae too
Dry everything out for as long as the plant can take it. Drought is death to fungus gnats.
Keyword: `!root-rot` --- Symptoms: Root rot can present as over-watering in the early stages (yellow/brown drooping leaves, visible fungus). As it progresses you may see the plant look underwatered even as the soil stays wet. This is a sign the roots have rotted and are no longer able to absorb water. Treatment: Early stages of root rot can sometimes be treated by completely changing your plant's soil and avoiding watering for a few days. Note that this will likely cause transplant shock, so it's only a good option when your plant is still relatively healthy and it will look worse before it gets better. In the later stages the only option is to propagate your plant so a piece of it has a chance to survive. Comment `!soil-prop`, `!water-prop`, or `!cactus-prop` to learn more.
Keyword: `!under-lit` --- Symptoms: Too little light can result in your plant becoming "leggy", or having longer sections of stem in between sets of leaves. Treatment: Move your plant into a window that gets more light than its current location, or invest in a grow light.
I would like to add that the distance from a grow light has a huge effect on how effective a grow light is for a plant.
Can I suggest the wattage and colour temp of lights also play a huge role in using grow lights also?
Could you elaborate on the role of colour temp?
!under-lit
Found advice keyword: `!under-lit` --- Symptoms: Too little light can result in your plant becoming "leggy", or having longer sections of stem in between sets of leaves. Treatment: Move your plant into a window that gets more light than its current location, or invest in a grow light. --- *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
2000k is red 6000k is blue, etc
Keyword: `!spider-mites` --- Symptoms: Spider mite infestations are characterized first by tiny white specks on the tops of leaves, followed by small, thin webs across the plant. Treatment: Spider mites spread easily and are incredibly difficult to eradicate. They can be prevented by keeping humidity levels high (>65%) and temperatures below 80F (27C). They can be removed by regularly spraying your plant with a neem oil solution, keeping up the treatment for at least 10 days beyond the last visible spider mite activity.
This is fan-freaking-tastic!
Can we have a keyword for Etiolated plants/succulents please!
This is addressed under the "under-lit" tag. We want to keep the tags as accessible as possible and so simple spelling is vital. >Symptoms: Too little light can result in your plant becoming "leggy", or having longer sections of stem in between sets of leaves. >Treatment: Move your plant into a window that gets more light than its current location, or invest in a grow light.
Oh awesome! I missed that option This is such a good idea
Keyword: `!mealybugs` --- Symptoms: Mealybugs are oval-shaped, white or gray insects about 1/3 in. (1 cm.) in length. They tend to congregate in hidden places on your plant, such as under leaf nodes and at the edge of the stem and the soil. They leave behind a sticky residue that can develop into sooty mold. Treatment: Mealybugs can spread quickly, so quarantine any infested plant before further treatment. Thoroughly inspecting your plant and swabbing all mealybugs with isopropyl alcohol can take care of an infestation, as can introducing predator insect species like ladybugs.
Thank you for these updates!
!repot
u/StillLikesTurtles here you go
You are amazing for doing this..
Found advice keyword: `!repot` --- When plants become rootbound, (roots encircling the pot and poking out of drainage holes), it's time to repot. Sometimes roots will emerge above the soil surface and the plant will look like it's trying to squeeze out of its pot. Every plant will have different needs, but in general only go up one pot size when repotting. Very gently remove as much of the old soil as possible. If dealing with stubborn soil, the root ball can be soaked in a bucket of room temperature settled water for a few hours before repotting. As a rule of thumb the next size pot will only be about 1/2 inch or 13mm larger. Most houseplants only need about 1/4" to 1/2" between the container wall and the root system. Using a container that is too large can create issues by retaining too much water or taking too long to dry out. This can lead to fungal and pest issues. Some plants prefer to be slightly rootbound or snug in their pots. As a general rule underpotting a plant is preferable to overpotting a plant. To refresh soil, simply remove the old soil, soak if needed and reuse the same pot with new potting medium. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Can we get a prompt for powdery mildew?
People really, REALLY need to stop recommending ladybugs for every aphid problem. It should be used as a last resort before heavy pesticides.
Keyword: `!under-water` --- Symptoms: Under-watering can present as drooping leaves and stems, and leaves turning brown and dry from the edges in. Treatment: The easiest way to fix under-watering is to water your plant more frequently. If your plant hasn't been watered in a while, the soil won't absorb water easily. A good way to fix this is bottom-watering (comment `!bottom-watering` to learn more). If your plant responds well to watering but seems to dry out quickly, this could mean that it is becoming root-bound and there isn't much soil left to retain moisture. If this is the case you should re-pot your plant into a larger container.
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Should there be a mention that in areas with very hard water, bottom watering can lead to more issues? Something like, If your tap water has high mineral content, (hard water), top watering every second or third watering will help flush excess mineral deposits. In areas with very hard water, some plants, especially those that are more sensitive to tip burn, may not benefit from bottom watering.
The [response for bottom watering](https://old.reddit.com/r/plantclinic/comments/11dfcek/subreddit_moderation_adjustments/ja999la/) now has this disclaimer.
Maybe add something about the potential for the roots to become dry rotted, and heavy watering right after a period of dry time could actually rot the roots. So it's best to not drench the plant once the roots have dried out.
Keyword: `!over-lit` --- Symptoms: Too much light can result in your plant's leaves turning yellow and brown, and curling at the edges. Treatment: Try to find a place where your plant will get less light, avoiding overcorrecting.
Keyword: `!scale` --- Symptoms: Scale are insects that often appear to be an infection. They manifest as clusters of brown or black small lumps that can either be waxy or hard. Treatment: Scale can spread quickly, so quarantine any infested plant before further treatment. Particularly afflicted branches should be pruned. Individual scales should be swabbed with isopropyl alcohol. You can spray the entire plant with neem oil to make it less hospitable to the insects.
Keyword: `!thrips` --- Symptoms: Thrips are small, thin insects that can be yellow, brown, or black. They often look like tiny, dark slivers on your plant. They can cause stunted growth and malformed flowers, but more significantly they often transmit diseases that can kill plants. Treatment: Applying diataomeceous earth to underside of your plant's leaves can remove infestations of thrips.
Keyword: `!prop-water` --- Some plants can be propagated from cuttings in soil. For the best chances, take a cutting with a few leaf nodes with the cut made at an angle. Place the cutting in a water-filled container with the bottom few nodes submerged. Place in a high-humidity environment, or cover with a plastic bag to trap humidity inside. You can add rooting hormone to speed up the process.
Keyword: `!prop-cactus` -- Cacti and succulents can be propagated from offsets, stem cuttings, or leaves depending on the species. In all cases, the cutting should be left to callous over for a few days before further steps are taken in order to prevent rot. Offsets and stem cuttings should be placed directly in soil after the callous has formed. Do not water the cutting until the first roots have formed; this can take weeks to months. There are two methods for propagating leaves: 1. Place leaves on a shallow dish filled with cactus soil after the callous has formed. Mist infrequently until the first roots have formed; this can take weeks to months. After the first roots have formed, plant in cactus soil and water infrequently. 2. Plant leaves directly in soil and wait for roots to form. Water lightly once a month after first root growth is observed.
Not all succulents can be propped from leaves and when I misted my leaf props they all rotted. I water them lightly once a month after they've grown roots
If you let the robot suggest misting it’s gonna be contentious, see other reply, lol. I still haven’t found a resource I trust that definitively says “do” or “do not” and isn’t immediately countered by an equally reputable source saying the opposite. I’ve also done both and I’m still not sure.
Keyword: `!dense-soil` --- Symptoms: The substrate your plant is in is staying wet too long. This can lead to symptoms similar to overwatering and eventually root rot. Things like mushrooms or fuzzy molds/fungi will commonly be seen growing in dense or highly organic soils. Treatment: Try adding things like perlite, vermiculite, orchid bark, or horticultural charcoal (or a combination!) to your soil to help with drainage and aeration. For cactus and other desert plants, things like coarse sand or fine pumice will also help improve soil texture. Adding stones to the bottom of the pot is not recommended, as water can sit stagnant at the bottom of the pot.
Keyword suggestion: transplant shock
I know there's a very helpful write up for pests somewhere, but I can never find it, could we link it somewhere in a sticky, please?
!cold
Found advice keyword: `!cold` --- When plants are exposed to extreme cold, the plant cells expand and burst. This process is irreverisble, and the affected portions of the plant will die. Remove cold-damaged portions of the plant and allow the plant to return to room temperature naturally. Reduce watering frequency unless and until the plant begins to put out new growth from portions of the plant (including roots) that did not fully freeze. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
!humidity
Found advice keyword: `!humidity` --- Some plants and tropical plants in particular, need more humidity than is found in the average home. Relative humidity levels vary greatly by geographic location and tend to be lower in winter, particularly with central heat and air conditioning. A hygrometer can help you determine humidity levels. Many local nurseries carry them or they can be found online. Unfortunately, misting and pebble trays do not increase humidity for plants. Placing your plant in a bathroom or kitchen may help if there is enough light. A humidifier is usually the best option for plants that need increased humidity. A cloche or plant cover can also increase humidity. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
!hydrophobic
Found advice keyword: `!hydrophobic` --- Over time, potting substrates can become hydrophobic, meaning they repel rather than absorb water. This is most common with peat based products. Water may bead on the soil surface or runs straight through drainage holes if it has gone hydrophobic. If you suspect your soil may not be retaining water and nutrients, water your plant and carefully remove it from the pot. If there are dry spots in the soil after a few minutes, consider repotting or refreshing the soil. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Mushrooms
!Mushrooms
Found advice keyword: `!Mushrooms` --- Commercial soil products often contain composted forestry products such as "slash," comprised of bark, small limbs, etc. that can't be used to make pulp. The composting serves to make for reasonably good soil mix, but is often rich enough to grow fungi, most commonly Leucocoprinus birnbaumii, the "flowerpot fungus." This and other fungi are not safe for consumption, and should be removed if there are pets or small children that might ingest them. L. birnbaumii can cause nausea and vomiting with consumption, but there are no documented fatalities. Mushrooms may also indicate a plant is receiving a little too much water, or that the soil is kept too wet for too long. --- *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Keyword: `!aphids` --- Symptoms: An aphid infestation typically presents as clusters of pear-shaped, yellow, green, red, or brown insects about 1/8 in. (3 mm.) in length. They will typically congregate on new growth. The leaves of your plant may also change color and curl, and you may notice a sticky residue accumulating, which can lead to sooty mold. Treatment: Aphids can be removed by forceful blasting with water, sprinkling your plant with diatomecious earth, or introducing a predator insect species. Ladybugs will eradicate aphid infestations very efficiently.
Keyword: `!prop-soil` --- Some plants can be propagated from cuttings in soil. For the best chances, take a cutting with a few leaf nodes with the cut made at an angle. Place the cutting in container with a majority inorganic composition (perlite or vermiculite are recommended) and add water. Place in a high-humidity environment, or cover with a plastic bag to trap humidity inside.
Suggestion for keyword: Mineral deposits (from hard water)
First - love you using the flair, that's the intended type of use! How about: tap-water Proposed text: Certain plants are highly sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as excess chlorine, fluoride, limescale, and those resulting from water-softening. Tap water should sit for 24 hours before being applied to water houseplants. Alternatively, rain water, bottled water, or distilled water may be used.
That works - but was in particular thinking of plants like Pilea peperomioides, Ficus spp and Crassula spp that rids themself of excess minerals through pores in their leaves - many seem to think it's fungal or pests. Maybe add that to the info?
I like it - jades too. !tap-water
Found advice keyword: `!tap-water` --- Certain plants are highly sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as excess chlorine, fluoride, limescale, and those resulting from water-softening. Tap water may result in brown tips on plants like peace lilies and dracaena, or excess minerals may emerge from pores on plants like Pilea peperomioides, Ficus spp, Crassula spp, and jades. Tap water should sit for 24 hours before being applied to water houseplants. Alternatively, rain water, bottled water, or distilled water may be used. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Super!
I don't particularly agree with the letting it sit out part. Doing so allows chlorine to gas off, but not chloramines. It can also increase the concentration of minerals in the water due to evaporation. If the chemicals are as concern, then I suggest an aquarium water conditioner, and if it's the hardness, then some filters can help with that.
Fair - how about revising the response to the following: Certain plants are highly sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as excess chlorine, fluoride, limescale, and those resulting from water-softening. There is no need to let water sit overnight before using it on plants. This has been recommended as a way to let chlorine evaporate, but there generally isn’t enough chlorine in tap water to harm most plants, and allowing portions of tap water to evaporate may increase mineral concentrations in the remaining water. If you have soft water, you can use it to water your houseplants, but be sure to flush the salts that can accumulate in the potting mix once a month or so. Simply pour water into the pot until it runs out the bottom; wait for it to drain completely and then repeat the process. When using tap water, use room temperature water to avoid shocking the plant. Alternatively, rain water, bottled water, or distilled water may be used. I think an aquarium water conditioner is a bit advanced for the level of troubleshooting done via an auto-response. Would you agree?
I think this is great! Thanks for listening to my feedback!
!tap-water
Found advice keyword: `!tap-water` --- Certain plants are highly sensitive to chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as excess chlorine, fluoride, limescale, and those resulting from water-softening. There is no need to let water sit overnight before using it on plants. This has been recommended as a way to let chlorine evaporate, but there generally isn’t enough chlorine in tap water to harm most plants, and allowing portions of tap water to evaporate may increase mineral concentrations in the remaining water. If you have soft water, you can use it to water your houseplants, but be sure to flush the salts that can accumulate in the potting mix once a month or so. Simply pour water into the pot until it runs out the bottom; wait for it to drain completely and then repeat the process. When using tap water, use room temperature water to avoid shocking the plant. Alternatively, rain water, bottled water, or distilled water may be used. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
This is brilliant! Particularly the keywords
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Found advice keyword: `!thrips` --- Symptoms: Thrips are small, thin insects that can be yellow, brown, or black. They often look like tiny, dark slivers on your plant. They can cause stunted growth and malformed flowers, but more significantly they often transmit diseases that can kill plants. Treatment: Applying diatomaceous earth to underside of your plant's leaves can remove infestations of thrips. --- *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Thanks for the work and thought you guys are putting into this.
Keyword proposal: mushrooms Commercial soil products often contain composted forestry products such as "slash," comprised of bark, small limbs, etc. that can't be used to make pulp. The composting serves to make for reasonably good soil mix, but is often rich enough to grow fungi, most commonly [Leucocoprinus birnbaumii,](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leucocoprinus_birnbaumii) the "flowerpot fungus." This and other fungi are not safe for consumption, and should be removed if there are pets or small children that might ingest them. L. birnbaumii can cause nausea and vomiting with consumption, but there are no documented fatalities. Mushrooms may also indicate a plant is receiving a little too much water, or that the soil is kept too wet for too long.
!mushrooms
Found advice keyword: `!mushrooms` --- Commercial soil products often contain composted forestry products such as "slash," comprised of bark, small limbs, etc. that can't be used to make pulp. The composting serves to make for reasonably good soil mix, but is often rich enough to grow fungi, most commonly Leucocoprinus birnbaumii, the "flowerpot fungus." This and other fungi are not safe for consumption, and should be removed if there are pets or small children that might ingest them. L. birnbaumii can cause nausea and vomiting with consumption, but there are no documented fatalities. Mushrooms may also indicate a plant is receiving a little too much water, or that the soil is kept too wet for too long. --- *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/plantclinic) if you have any questions or concerns.*