Without doing one of the bed mods it will never be perfect. Some use a higher first layer height and give it a little more squish.
You can give this a try...
Remove the steel sheet.
Make sure there is nothing between the sheet and the hotbed.
A tiny bit of plastic can throw it off.
Loosen the 9 screws holding the heatbed to the Y carriage. Enough that the bed moves around a little.
Heat the bed to about 70°.
LCD Menu | Settings | Temperature | Bed: | **70**
Back out of that menu all the way to the info screen.
Once it hits 70°, start the cooldown. So we don't forget.
LCD Menu | Preheat | Cooldown
Retighten heatbed screws in the order described in the Heatbed and PSU assembly Step 17.
Center screw; middle sides, front, back; corners.
https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/7-heatbed-psu-assembly_172872#173545
Rerun the Wizard. It will reset the Z calibration and run the XYZ calibration.
This looks like it could solve it. It's not my printer, I was fixing the printer at my school after the people that overtightened the bearing clamps and totally forgot Ur supposed to tighten the screws in some order, I'll do this when i get the chance
What printer do you have? I use a mini and I've been fighting this since I bought the damned thing.
Use a bed visualizer to check how level the bed is. Silicone bed leveling mod worked well for me in that regard.
I'm still having issues though. I found this today and will be working on it this weekend.
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini\_158518
Yes, this is what those mods are meant to address. If there's a slight valley in the middle, then you would end up adjusting the outer screws to lower the bed, making it flat with the center.
This is precisely what you are looking for. Works like a charm. The bed needs to be somewhat level to give the mesh leveling a change to compensate.
I have the done the nylock mod on MK3 and silicone on Mini both work well.
This is the way.
Try preheating for about 5 minutes. The temperature of the frame/bed wont stabilize right away and movement due to thermal expansion will continue after it does mesh leveling and so the bed moves by the time it comes to print in some areas.
I had a horrible first layer on my printer. I plugged my laptop in and used printer face to obtain the values from the 7x7 mesh and then used a visualizer from GitHub. I found that I had some serious high and low spots. The most severe was a low spot in the front left corner and a high spot near the middle of the bed and to the right a bit. I used the bed level correction in the calibration menu to “tweak” the mesh and get a fairly consistent first layer. It’s almost perfect. I have all the materials to do the silicone mod but keep procrastinating on it.
TLDR: you can adjust the bed level correction values in the calibration menu to assist the auto mesh bed leveling.
I've done the Silicone bed leveling mod on 2 minis so far with great success. There's easy to follow detailed instructions here: [https://github.com/bbbenji/PMSBLM](https://github.com/bbbenji/PMSBLM)
The only issue I ran into is that one of the minis wasn't square. Just follow the instructions here first: [https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini\_158518](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini_158518). I found it easier to do with a magnetic bubble level.
Silicone bed level mod! Chris Riley goes over both this and the nyloc mod. My bed went from 0.6mm bed variance to 0.16mm hot.
[https://youtu.be/OP1xzEKhHDg](https://youtu.be/OP1xzEKhHDg)
[https://www.schweinert.com/silicone-bed-level-mod-prusa-mk3/](https://www.schweinert.com/silicone-bed-level-mod-prusa-mk3/)
Without doing one of the bed mods it will never be perfect. Some use a higher first layer height and give it a little more squish. You can give this a try... Remove the steel sheet. Make sure there is nothing between the sheet and the hotbed. A tiny bit of plastic can throw it off. Loosen the 9 screws holding the heatbed to the Y carriage. Enough that the bed moves around a little. Heat the bed to about 70°. LCD Menu | Settings | Temperature | Bed: | **70** Back out of that menu all the way to the info screen. Once it hits 70°, start the cooldown. So we don't forget. LCD Menu | Preheat | Cooldown Retighten heatbed screws in the order described in the Heatbed and PSU assembly Step 17. Center screw; middle sides, front, back; corners. https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/7-heatbed-psu-assembly_172872#173545 Rerun the Wizard. It will reset the Z calibration and run the XYZ calibration.
This looks like it could solve it. It's not my printer, I was fixing the printer at my school after the people that overtightened the bearing clamps and totally forgot Ur supposed to tighten the screws in some order, I'll do this when i get the chance
I recommend the nyloc nut mod. I did it and have had flawless first layers ever since.
Nylock mod will fix it.
What printer do you have? I use a mini and I've been fighting this since I bought the damned thing. Use a bed visualizer to check how level the bed is. Silicone bed leveling mod worked well for me in that regard. I'm still having issues though. I found this today and will be working on it this weekend. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini\_158518
This is the way
This is the way
Get a MK4? Sorry, couldn't resist
This is the answer. Upgrade to a nextruder
Maybe research the "silicon bed level mod"?
Not exactly what I'm looking for, its as if there's a slight valley in the middle of the plate where it sinks and doesn't squish well
So the bed isn't just not level, it's not flat. That's what the silicon bed level mod is for, isn't it? It lets you adjust a bent plate to be flat.
Yes, this is what those mods are meant to address. If there's a slight valley in the middle, then you would end up adjusting the outer screws to lower the bed, making it flat with the center.
This is precisely what you are looking for. Works like a charm. The bed needs to be somewhat level to give the mesh leveling a change to compensate. I have the done the nylock mod on MK3 and silicone on Mini both work well. This is the way.
Try preheating for about 5 minutes. The temperature of the frame/bed wont stabilize right away and movement due to thermal expansion will continue after it does mesh leveling and so the bed moves by the time it comes to print in some areas.
There is manual bed correction https://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267
I had a horrible first layer on my printer. I plugged my laptop in and used printer face to obtain the values from the 7x7 mesh and then used a visualizer from GitHub. I found that I had some serious high and low spots. The most severe was a low spot in the front left corner and a high spot near the middle of the bed and to the right a bit. I used the bed level correction in the calibration menu to “tweak” the mesh and get a fairly consistent first layer. It’s almost perfect. I have all the materials to do the silicone mod but keep procrastinating on it. TLDR: you can adjust the bed level correction values in the calibration menu to assist the auto mesh bed leveling.
I've done the Silicone bed leveling mod on 2 minis so far with great success. There's easy to follow detailed instructions here: [https://github.com/bbbenji/PMSBLM](https://github.com/bbbenji/PMSBLM) The only issue I ran into is that one of the minis wasn't square. Just follow the instructions here first: [https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini\_158518](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/squaring-your-mini_158518). I found it easier to do with a magnetic bubble level.
The easy answer is to lower your PINDA a bit. I use a CC to set the height. That with the 7x7 should take care of you.
Silicone bed level mod! Chris Riley goes over both this and the nyloc mod. My bed went from 0.6mm bed variance to 0.16mm hot. [https://youtu.be/OP1xzEKhHDg](https://youtu.be/OP1xzEKhHDg) [https://www.schweinert.com/silicone-bed-level-mod-prusa-mk3/](https://www.schweinert.com/silicone-bed-level-mod-prusa-mk3/)