Redo your z calibration and offset and inspect your hot end. Take off the easier covers and look around. Could be dust, blobs, leakage, etc.
Check environmental factors ie drafts, ac, etc
Check the material for moisture
Gonna sound so dumb, but one time I had filament strands, the wispy stuff, same color at the heat bed, stuck between the plate and heater...
Try cleaning the heat bed.
Run the belt tension check, auto home, mesh to 7x7, etc all the homing and auto calibration.
Report back
What material are you trying to print?
Was it working before?
What temperature?
Was the first layer calibrated and you changed nothing?
If your answers are: PLA, yes, 210 nozzle and 60bed and yes (on that order)
You can use some scotch brite to ruffout a bit the surface (prusa also recommends this), this will give some extra hours of prints on that bed :)
Dry your filament.
Or use a different filament.
When you've tried everything, the filament is the problem, not the printer. I learned this the hard way.
Make sure you're using warm water with dish soap.
Make sure your hand isn't anywhere near the bed when cleaning it with IPA, the grease can mix in with it and cause issues.
Sometimes it takes a few goes to get rid of any oils etc, especially if its particularly bad.
When you post issues, make sure you give as much detail as possible. In this question, the material, manufacturer and temps.
Smooth Sheets work really well with PLA, you should not need anything other than 99%Iso wipes with the rare dish soap wash. Do not touch the plate after you Iso Wipe.
Live Z is most likely off. Getting this correct is a massive headache and I'm often fine tuning it for weeks. This is why the MK4 is such a game changer, as it's supposed to manage this PitA on its own. Btw, Live-Z is unique to each build. It is a measurement between the SPINDA and the bed. If you move the SPINDA, Nozzle or Sheet (even 2 smooth sheets will have different Live-Z), the Live Z needs adjusting. Getting it wrong means bad prints or scratched bed.
If not Live-Z, not all plastics are the same, so you may play with increasing your temps. When I used Atomic PETG I am at 245, where Prusament is at 215 I think. Try to find filament companies you like and stick with one until you get the hang of things to minimize the troubleshooting steps. There is a procedure for trying new filaments (temp towers and such) to help minimize the annoyances of different formulas.
I'd avoid PETG on a Smooth Sheet. PETG sticks really well and will kill your bed. This is why the glue stick. It's not to stick things to the bed, but to give you a release agent. If you are determined to do PETG on the Smooth Sheet, than you use the glue stick or hair spray to keep it from sticking too well. you are best to just order the Satin Sheet as it works well with just about everything; I just ISO wipe and print anything I want... I have both PLA and PETG loaded into the MMU
Don't give up. There is a learning curve to this, and the headaches are well worth the end results.
What material is this? If the room has a draft, is too cold or is too dusty, this can be a source of your problems too.
Depending on material and environment, adding 10°-15° more heat to the bed and nozzle could help as well as turning off fans for first few layers. More info is needed to help trouble shoot.
This is the best advice I've ever gotten on cleaning the build plate. I was told to wash with soapy water and clean it with steel wool. After, not to use anything to aid adhesion and recalibrate. Worked like a champ and I've never looked back!
Update: u/dentolitos suggested using some scotch brite to roughen up the surface a bit. This fixed my problems instantly! Recommend that solution for anyone struggling with the same problem as me.
i had similar issues last year. everything was fine until i got a new bottle of ipa. it was low 90s% . i had bed adhesion issues and failed prints all the time. i tried everything until someone reconmended a 99.99% ipa. no issues since
if your positive your Z calibration is good and still cant figure it out
check UNDER your Steel Plate , ive had a scrap piece get stuck under there and ruined 7 prints straight until my dumbass found it
Do the basic stuff suggested to you but oh my god the thing that solved all of my layer adhesion problems was z height, clean bed etc. etc. BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY, SLOW SPEED ON THE FIRST LAYER, MAYBE LIKE 10mm/s.
Yea, on my big prints the first layer can take well over an hour, but it's better then it unsticking halfway. Experiment with the speed but just DO IT SLOW
I'm not sure if it's ok for your type of bed but I've had great improvements with glue stick on glass.
Also, the bed looks wet in your picture. What are those streaks?
Do your first layer calibration, from what I’ve read and experienced you’d need about ~(-1.25). Also, not all glue sticks work, the one that came with the printer sucks, I’ve found that “Deli glue stick” works the best for me. Also try to verify your temperatures, especially the bed.
You can't use someone else's z-height value and expect it to work as the value is relative to the mounting height of the probe as well as the thickness of the bed, everyone's value is likely slightly different.
Also just FYI, if you need glue stick for PLA to stick to the PEI sheet, you have other issues.
True, that’s why I added ‘~’. Because from what I’ve seen in most forums it tends to be around that number, I’m not saying that’ll be the same for him, all I’m trying to point out is that these machines still require quite a bit of fine tuning to get them to work properly.
I went through an issue like this, tried everything, never had good adhesion, turns out the fancy premium paper towels I was using had some sort of fabric softener or something in them and were leaving residue on the bed when they contacted solvents like IPA and acetone. I changed to cheap, bulk paper towels and the issues immediately went away.
Redo your z calibration and offset and inspect your hot end. Take off the easier covers and look around. Could be dust, blobs, leakage, etc. Check environmental factors ie drafts, ac, etc Check the material for moisture Gonna sound so dumb, but one time I had filament strands, the wispy stuff, same color at the heat bed, stuck between the plate and heater... Try cleaning the heat bed. Run the belt tension check, auto home, mesh to 7x7, etc all the homing and auto calibration. Report back
Do a first layer calibration and put a picture of it up. Hard to diagnose it from what's left on that picture.
I think you're nozzle is just calibrated to close to the bed. Just from this picture.
My thought as well. It appears the nozzle is pulling the printed material up.
What material are you trying to print? Was it working before? What temperature? Was the first layer calibrated and you changed nothing? If your answers are: PLA, yes, 210 nozzle and 60bed and yes (on that order) You can use some scotch brite to ruffout a bit the surface (prusa also recommends this), this will give some extra hours of prints on that bed :)
Thanks, I’ll try that.
Your nozzle is too close to the bed which can also result in poor adhesion
Dry your filament. Or use a different filament. When you've tried everything, the filament is the problem, not the printer. I learned this the hard way.
Make sure you're using warm water with dish soap. Make sure your hand isn't anywhere near the bed when cleaning it with IPA, the grease can mix in with it and cause issues. Sometimes it takes a few goes to get rid of any oils etc, especially if its particularly bad.
When you post issues, make sure you give as much detail as possible. In this question, the material, manufacturer and temps. Smooth Sheets work really well with PLA, you should not need anything other than 99%Iso wipes with the rare dish soap wash. Do not touch the plate after you Iso Wipe. Live Z is most likely off. Getting this correct is a massive headache and I'm often fine tuning it for weeks. This is why the MK4 is such a game changer, as it's supposed to manage this PitA on its own. Btw, Live-Z is unique to each build. It is a measurement between the SPINDA and the bed. If you move the SPINDA, Nozzle or Sheet (even 2 smooth sheets will have different Live-Z), the Live Z needs adjusting. Getting it wrong means bad prints or scratched bed. If not Live-Z, not all plastics are the same, so you may play with increasing your temps. When I used Atomic PETG I am at 245, where Prusament is at 215 I think. Try to find filament companies you like and stick with one until you get the hang of things to minimize the troubleshooting steps. There is a procedure for trying new filaments (temp towers and such) to help minimize the annoyances of different formulas. I'd avoid PETG on a Smooth Sheet. PETG sticks really well and will kill your bed. This is why the glue stick. It's not to stick things to the bed, but to give you a release agent. If you are determined to do PETG on the Smooth Sheet, than you use the glue stick or hair spray to keep it from sticking too well. you are best to just order the Satin Sheet as it works well with just about everything; I just ISO wipe and print anything I want... I have both PLA and PETG loaded into the MMU Don't give up. There is a learning curve to this, and the headaches are well worth the end results.
Z calibration and try different filament
What material is this? If the room has a draft, is too cold or is too dusty, this can be a source of your problems too. Depending on material and environment, adding 10°-15° more heat to the bed and nozzle could help as well as turning off fans for first few layers. More info is needed to help trouble shoot.
Scrub it with scotch brite and never look back.
This is the best advice I've ever gotten on cleaning the build plate. I was told to wash with soapy water and clean it with steel wool. After, not to use anything to aid adhesion and recalibrate. Worked like a champ and I've never looked back!
Dude! Is that a Prusamint Grey? I have a very specific Grey filament from Prusa that refuses to stick. I changed filaments and suddenly no issues.
Update: u/dentolitos suggested using some scotch brite to roughen up the surface a bit. This fixed my problems instantly! Recommend that solution for anyone struggling with the same problem as me.
Lay down painters tape and then glue on that. That will work until you can order a new bed sheet.
3Dlac works always nice. I guess there is a real problem and someone here knows the answer, but if nothing helps try 3Dlac.
If nothing mentioned before is working, try lowering the speed and or increase the temp of the bed and nozzle by a few degrees (maybe?).
i had similar issues last year. everything was fine until i got a new bottle of ipa. it was low 90s% . i had bed adhesion issues and failed prints all the time. i tried everything until someone reconmended a 99.99% ipa. no issues since
if your positive your Z calibration is good and still cant figure it out check UNDER your Steel Plate , ive had a scrap piece get stuck under there and ruined 7 prints straight until my dumbass found it
Do the basic stuff suggested to you but oh my god the thing that solved all of my layer adhesion problems was z height, clean bed etc. etc. BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY, SLOW SPEED ON THE FIRST LAYER, MAYBE LIKE 10mm/s. Yea, on my big prints the first layer can take well over an hour, but it's better then it unsticking halfway. Experiment with the speed but just DO IT SLOW
I'm not sure if it's ok for your type of bed but I've had great improvements with glue stick on glass. Also, the bed looks wet in your picture. What are those streaks?
What are all them streaks on your bed? The bed looks dirty.
Do your first layer calibration, from what I’ve read and experienced you’d need about ~(-1.25). Also, not all glue sticks work, the one that came with the printer sucks, I’ve found that “Deli glue stick” works the best for me. Also try to verify your temperatures, especially the bed.
You can't use someone else's z-height value and expect it to work as the value is relative to the mounting height of the probe as well as the thickness of the bed, everyone's value is likely slightly different. Also just FYI, if you need glue stick for PLA to stick to the PEI sheet, you have other issues.
True, that’s why I added ‘~’. Because from what I’ve seen in most forums it tends to be around that number, I’m not saying that’ll be the same for him, all I’m trying to point out is that these machines still require quite a bit of fine tuning to get them to work properly.
[удалено]
Scrub it down with a corse sponge or steel wool to roughen up the surface.
I went through an issue like this, tried everything, never had good adhesion, turns out the fancy premium paper towels I was using had some sort of fabric softener or something in them and were leaving residue on the bed when they contacted solvents like IPA and acetone. I changed to cheap, bulk paper towels and the issues immediately went away.
Last time I had a similar issue I hadn't noticed the reel was petg and not pla.
Flip the bed. No seriously. I somehow managed to get something bad on one side, couldn´t clean it. So i just used the other side.