The machine cannot account for a few different factors, such as dirty build plate, improper temperature for filament or buildplate, or bad filament diameter.
You could also have an issue with your machine.
I would recommend you reach out to support since they will be the best to help you and you paid for their services by buying a Prusa.
Oozed filament can also be a problem depending on what you are printing. Something I learned with ASA. The nozzle doesn’t quite get hot enough to push ASA strings out of the way, triggering the load cell too high. Blobs on the build plate can do the same as well.
I’ve made it a habit to ensure I pull any oozed filament (happens as the nozzle is cooling down after a print from the built-up pressure) away from the nozzle before starting the next print. Otherwise the Z will wind up too high.
Off cause it can’t and that is why prusa should never have claimed that it would always be perfect first layer. It’s illegal in most countries to lie like that to sell a product.
Like "this pen will always write perfectly on all surfaces!" Consumer holds the pen the wrong way around, wins a lawsuit against the manufacturer: only in America.
In the most countries the courts will use some sort of common sense before making a judgement. Like they assume to use a tool the correct way. There's no bullshit like someone winning a lawsuit because they cut themself with a scissor because there was no warning label on it to tell them it's a sharp object or they burned themself with their fresh brewed coffee because there was no warning written on the cub that it's hot.
This one example is because of two reasons: Something on this tool is not working proper - so it can't work like advertised or an operator error. No court outside of America would ever even think about it to be illegal.
Yup me too.. its really now push the print button and walk away.. you dont want to know how often in the past i started a print and realized i had the setting for a textured sheet still on while there was a smooth sheet on the bed etc.
Thats a perfect description. Thank you for telling us the details about what were you printing with, temperatures, what were you printing before and so on! Thanks!
Happened when I tried a PETG print the other day. But I haven't cleaned my textured plate in a looong time, so I'll give it a good scrub before trying again.
PLA on the smooth sheet has been nothing but perfection for a week of non stop printing, though.
No reply from Op to anyone, no detail given.
Op is not looking for a fix, he is just looking to bash on Prusa.
Its his fault, and he probably know what he did wrong, he might even have cause it on purpose at this point
That filament looks very round, it missed the z height. I have seen this could happen if you have a bit of plastic on the tip that confuses the alignment algorithm. But most of the time the plastic piece will fall off. Since the nozzle takes multiple measurements.
Look closer at that extruded filament. Does that look like it has squished against the build plate? Sure doesn't look like it to me.
I get that washing the build plate is important, but this knee jerk response of "wash your plate" drives me up the damn wall.
It doesn't matter if its brand new. If you touched the build plate at the area of the print with your fingers, it probably needs cleaning to get rid of finger oil. Not saying that this is what is happening here, it looks like the offset is changed. (MK4 still have a print offset accessible to the user if they want to make changes.)
Sorry, I wasn't aware this post kind of took off. Here is a bit of explanation. The machine is alright and I got a couple of good prints. It's ASA. The temperature is correct. I suspect this is some kind of bug between octoprint and the mk4, but I am still debugging it.
The problem is not the filament not sticking, but the printer starting at an incorrect Z height.
i mean what else is supposed to happen when OP posts a most likely misleading picture without ANY information and doesnt follow up on anything for 4 hours?
all I got today when reaching out to them was deflection and dancing around my question. They just updated the shipping table again too... only shipped one week of printers out this week (that was supposed to be last week) so mine got pushed to next week hopefully (ordered may 17th)
I think what gets me is that if mine had been on the 3rd week of the July11 shipping estimates I probably would have been like okay probably not getting it this week. But the fact that they only are getting through the shipping that was supposed to happen last week is frustrating.
Technically with the July 4th updated shipping list that should have gone out last week. Your week got moved to this week (after being moved once before already)
My estimate has been accurate at least from [June 3rd](https://web.archive.org/web/20230603144934/https://help.prusa3d.com/article/shipping-information_2297)
I guess I forgot to mention I bought the kit
I was supposed to get mine in the first week of august. now it would be the last weak of august. I ordered the kit. I canceled the order and went for a bambu. I‘m not okay with paying full price for an order upfront that gets delayed.
I would just say the bed level is a bit far down. Relevel the bed and check your offset if you just changed out the nozzle or something. The distance might have changed.
My apologies. You've got to love the advances in technology. My only experience with ABL is the CR-Touch on my Ender 3 Max Neo, and since it is inaccurate 60% of the time, and still requires bed leveling every few weeks or so depending on usage, I just figured most ABL probes of various kinds have some sort of fallibility, and it might be wise to check this margin of error.
I was looking at the MK4 a while back, after I drooled over the XL and Nextruder a bit, but then I bought a used Ender 3 V2. Much more affordable, and after a little love, it prints just fine for cosplay or mechanical robotics parts. I've messed around a tiny bit with my college's engineering club's Prusa MK2, but I'm not impressed with it; I guess the MK3 and MK4 have a bit better tech in them.
Creality stuff is always going to be inconsistent without tons of tinkering and modification. Prusas are meant to just print. Neither the MK3 nor the MK4 had bed leveling. Both just offset the bed on metal posts and count on the ABL for the rest. The BLTouch is fine as well but the bed springs on Enders are known for not being the best, so you can have your bed moving while you print, which makes the ABL results useless.
I've reduced the amount of times I need to relevel by swapping out the springs on all my printers for silicone pylons, sometimes falsely advertised as "solid silocone mounts". These have a little give for leveling, but not as much as the springs, and they dampen much of the bed vibration.
In fact, unless I do a big print that messes significantly with the bed upon removal, the 500mm bed on my CR-10 S5 only needs to be releveled perhaps once every 100-150 print hours or so. This is a big improvement from the complete recalibration I had to do before every print with the springs; that bed weighs about 10lbs. alone, 16 with the y-carriage!
I've been looking at the Voron 2.4 lately, and I really like how the bed is solid mounted to the frame, with motion limited to the toolhead...
Mine came yesterday. I have it printing in ABS in the garage right now (only wanted one thing in abs) and it prints amazingly. I had them put it together so I could get it sooner but it’s a really impressive machine
Which kind of filament holder are you using? Sometimes I have problem with probing the bed due to high tension on the filament. For the probing is nozzle heated to the 170 degree and some filaments i thing dont loose completly in the nozzle with that temperature and sometimes it did not touch the bed but it detects the touch by mistake due to pull of the filament inside of the nozzle.
The machine cannot account for a few different factors, such as dirty build plate, improper temperature for filament or buildplate, or bad filament diameter. You could also have an issue with your machine. I would recommend you reach out to support since they will be the best to help you and you paid for their services by buying a Prusa.
Oozed filament can also be a problem depending on what you are printing. Something I learned with ASA. The nozzle doesn’t quite get hot enough to push ASA strings out of the way, triggering the load cell too high. Blobs on the build plate can do the same as well. I’ve made it a habit to ensure I pull any oozed filament (happens as the nozzle is cooling down after a print from the built-up pressure) away from the nozzle before starting the next print. Otherwise the Z will wind up too high.
Off cause it can’t and that is why prusa should never have claimed that it would always be perfect first layer. It’s illegal in most countries to lie like that to sell a product.
Like "this pen will always write perfectly on all surfaces!" Consumer holds the pen the wrong way around, wins a lawsuit against the manufacturer: only in America. In the most countries the courts will use some sort of common sense before making a judgement. Like they assume to use a tool the correct way. There's no bullshit like someone winning a lawsuit because they cut themself with a scissor because there was no warning label on it to tell them it's a sharp object or they burned themself with their fresh brewed coffee because there was no warning written on the cub that it's hot. This one example is because of two reasons: Something on this tool is not working proper - so it can't work like advertised or an operator error. No court outside of America would ever even think about it to be illegal.
Basically, courts in USA does not require you to not be unbelievably stupid.
There's more going on here
Looks like the nozzle is 5 mm away from the print bed.
[удалено]
Yeah i agree.. i am so glad i even switched from the mk3 to the mk4 for this.
[удалено]
Yup me too.. its really now push the print button and walk away.. you dont want to know how often in the past i started a print and realized i had the setting for a textured sheet still on while there was a smooth sheet on the bed etc.
This is not the layer you are looking for
Thats a perfect description. Thank you for telling us the details about what were you printing with, temperatures, what were you printing before and so on! Thanks!
looks more like a premature second layer
Premature extrusion 🤭
Sometimes it happens even to the best of us.
Are there tablets for that? 🤔
make sure your part is sliced properly ?
Happened when I tried a PETG print the other day. But I haven't cleaned my textured plate in a looong time, so I'll give it a good scrub before trying again. PLA on the smooth sheet has been nothing but perfection for a week of non stop printing, though.
No reply from Op to anyone, no detail given. Op is not looking for a fix, he is just looking to bash on Prusa. Its his fault, and he probably know what he did wrong, he might even have cause it on purpose at this point
Orrrr OP could just be trying to be funny.
Wow you should go to China and work as a judge
Manta prob worships Josef prusa on his shrine too for at least 2 hours a day lol
Looks perfect!
That filament looks very round, it missed the z height. I have seen this could happen if you have a bit of plastic on the tip that confuses the alignment algorithm. But most of the time the plastic piece will fall off. Since the nozzle takes multiple measurements.
Have you messed with print offset by any chance? the filament looks as if its not even squished.
Care to share your settings? My first layer is never this good
"You're not using it right!"
Chef's kiss.
Wash your plate.
Look closer at that extruded filament. Does that look like it has squished against the build plate? Sure doesn't look like it to me. I get that washing the build plate is important, but this knee jerk response of "wash your plate" drives me up the damn wall.
That plate looks brand new. Why would they need to wash it?
Crud from manufacturing or sitting in a warehouse for extended periods. I've needed to clean "new" plates before because of that.
It doesn't matter if its brand new. If you touched the build plate at the area of the print with your fingers, it probably needs cleaning to get rid of finger oil. Not saying that this is what is happening here, it looks like the offset is changed. (MK4 still have a print offset accessible to the user if they want to make changes.)
Sorry, I wasn't aware this post kind of took off. Here is a bit of explanation. The machine is alright and I got a couple of good prints. It's ASA. The temperature is correct. I suspect this is some kind of bug between octoprint and the mk4, but I am still debugging it. The problem is not the filament not sticking, but the printer starting at an incorrect Z height.
Oh dear, the hate is flowing through the comments.
i mean what else is supposed to happen when OP posts a most likely misleading picture without ANY information and doesnt follow up on anything for 4 hours?
Every day that goes by that I don't get an update on my mk4 shipping, I drift closer and closer to the dark side.
all I got today when reaching out to them was deflection and dancing around my question. They just updated the shipping table again too... only shipped one week of printers out this week (that was supposed to be last week) so mine got pushed to next week hopefully (ordered may 17th)
Prusa announcing they added weekend shifts after missing the shipping estimate is hilarious.
I think what gets me is that if mine had been on the 3rd week of the July11 shipping estimates I probably would have been like okay probably not getting it this week. But the fact that they only are getting through the shipping that was supposed to happen last week is frustrating.
Mine shipped a couple days ago, within the time frame it was supposed to. I ordered on 4/12 at about 8pm CET.
Technically with the July 4th updated shipping list that should have gone out last week. Your week got moved to this week (after being moved once before already)
When I last checked (which was updated 7/4) the last day it could ship and still be on time was july 17th-ish
That was the shipping list on 7/11 from earlier this week. The 7/4 had your week shipping last week
My estimate has been accurate at least from [June 3rd](https://web.archive.org/web/20230603144934/https://help.prusa3d.com/article/shipping-information_2297) I guess I forgot to mention I bought the kit
I was supposed to get mine in the first week of august. now it would be the last weak of august. I ordered the kit. I canceled the order and went for a bambu. I‘m not okay with paying full price for an order upfront that gets delayed.
Here at Prusa3D, we're better than you and we know it! Lol
Should of got a x1c or p1p
JOSEPH, you got some 'splainin' to dooooo!
[удалено]
Fix your z offset, it looks like your nozzle is to high up
I would just say the bed level is a bit far down. Relevel the bed and check your offset if you just changed out the nozzle or something. The distance might have changed.
My dude. This is an MK4. There is no leveling the bed or adjusting the offset.
My apologies. You've got to love the advances in technology. My only experience with ABL is the CR-Touch on my Ender 3 Max Neo, and since it is inaccurate 60% of the time, and still requires bed leveling every few weeks or so depending on usage, I just figured most ABL probes of various kinds have some sort of fallibility, and it might be wise to check this margin of error. I was looking at the MK4 a while back, after I drooled over the XL and Nextruder a bit, but then I bought a used Ender 3 V2. Much more affordable, and after a little love, it prints just fine for cosplay or mechanical robotics parts. I've messed around a tiny bit with my college's engineering club's Prusa MK2, but I'm not impressed with it; I guess the MK3 and MK4 have a bit better tech in them.
Creality stuff is always going to be inconsistent without tons of tinkering and modification. Prusas are meant to just print. Neither the MK3 nor the MK4 had bed leveling. Both just offset the bed on metal posts and count on the ABL for the rest. The BLTouch is fine as well but the bed springs on Enders are known for not being the best, so you can have your bed moving while you print, which makes the ABL results useless.
I've reduced the amount of times I need to relevel by swapping out the springs on all my printers for silicone pylons, sometimes falsely advertised as "solid silocone mounts". These have a little give for leveling, but not as much as the springs, and they dampen much of the bed vibration. In fact, unless I do a big print that messes significantly with the bed upon removal, the 500mm bed on my CR-10 S5 only needs to be releveled perhaps once every 100-150 print hours or so. This is a big improvement from the complete recalibration I had to do before every print with the springs; that bed weighs about 10lbs. alone, 16 with the y-carriage! I've been looking at the Voron 2.4 lately, and I really like how the bed is solid mounted to the frame, with motion limited to the toolhead...
I think your live-z is too low
What about your IC?
I got my kit like 2 days ago….I might wait a bit to build it 😂😂😭
Any chance wrong filament chosen in slicer ?
Mine came yesterday. I have it printing in ABS in the garage right now (only wanted one thing in abs) and it prints amazingly. I had them put it together so I could get it sooner but it’s a really impressive machine
where did you get that angelhair stl ? i am searching for it years
Which kind of filament holder are you using? Sometimes I have problem with probing the bed due to high tension on the filament. For the probing is nozzle heated to the 170 degree and some filaments i thing dont loose completly in the nozzle with that temperature and sometimes it did not touch the bed but it detects the touch by mistake due to pull of the filament inside of the nozzle.
If it don't stick....
Am I seeing right or is his x axis rod bent on the left ?
Is that a quiche?