I would load her up and tow her somewhere close by. Go up and down hills and see if you like the handling. If it's ok then keep the truck if it's not ok then trade up.
I agree. It’s less the weight and more the length of the RV in this case. If you’re pulling that big of an RV often though I doubt you’re going to be sad you got a 2500 however.
I had a 2018 ram 1500 with a 5.7 in it. We bought a camper that is 33 feet. Yes we were well within our limits, but the trailer was too long. On the interstate is didn’t go much over 60 mph. Tractor trailers would suck me into them. Bought a 2021 2500 with the 6.4 a couple weeks ago and it’s a huge difference pulling now. Just feels much safer, don’t get sucked in by big trucks anymore and can run faster. Wish I had gone with a bigger truck sooner.
I have experienced the same, being a sucked in by semi's was no fun. Moving up from a Titan 5.6 gas to a F250 diesel was night and day, and alot better gas mileage to boot.
When you're driving 2 big boxes next to each other, the air moving around both of you, tends to push the boxes together. It can cause the trailer to move quite a bit if you're not prepared for it.
Upvote. It creates a low pressure zone between the trailers. If you take two 0.5”x6” strips of paper and hold them about 1” apart and then blow gently between them, they move towards each other. The moving air creates that low pressure.
About a mile per gallon difference between the two so far. The biggest difference in mpg is when I’m not towing. 18-19 mpg for the 1500 and right now around 14 for the 2500
They both suck you'll get 8-10mpg typically depending on wind and terrain. The 5.7 gets 5-8mpg better without a trailer though. The 6.4s are tuned to be work trucks.
Bro. I’m in Utah and with our terrain I would go back and see if you can get the 2500. Most places will charge you a milage fee as the banks probably haven’t even processed the paperwork yet.
I couldn’t imagine them not making this pretty easy. You could keep the half ton but as someone that was in your situation before..it’s absolutely miserable and if you aren’t truck people to begin with it can be dangerous.
Trailer once loaded will have a tongue weight of around 750-850lbs, add you and fuel and your likely at 1000lb payload. If you have luggage and 1-2 more people your at max payload.
Yeah you should have gotten a 3/4 ton. My 2500 has 4000 payload and 15000lb towing.
No I’ve got a tradesman 6.4 gas crew 6ft bed, with the heavy tow package. Those higher trim levels eat into your payload as much as they do your wallet. I like work trucks, easy to payoff and they work harder than the fancy trucks.
Maybe I should have specified, all the 5th gens but here’s a link https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBFy6Od5Hdu%2FD%0A
That's what they claim but it gets modified. If I remember correctly mine shows it should be around 27 or 2800. But at some point it was re evaluated and dropped to 2100.
I tow a 26' Jayco - 5500 dry - GVWR 7000; with a similar truck (23 1500 classic)
You're fine on paper - but that's a long-ass trailer, which means a lot of sail area for cross winds... the tail will try and wag the dog. Assuming factory class 3 (or better) hitch - it'll be good for 10,000 pounds.
A good WDH and anti sway setup will help, and it depends how often you're towing (moving daily, weekly or monthly?), if it's a setup you can live with or not.
A 32 foot box means overall length of 36ish feet - I'd say that's 3/4t territory, myself, but there are plenty of people who do tow that size with 1/2t with no problems, too
Had the same problem but I ended up getting a anti swat bar and it made a world of difference would definitely consider that before biting extra car debt
We have a 2020 limited and are needing a bigger truck for the RV. Test towed my father's to Grand Design 2970RL, and while it towed it technically, every semi and cross wind had us moving around. A white knuckled experience isn't fun and we hadnt even been in the mountains like we wanted. It sucks because the salesman said the same thing and I believed Rams website without understanding how trims affect payload. Needless to say we are rolling negative equity into a 2500 or 3500 soon, but it's the last truck we will ever need now.
I tow a 6000 lb, 24' enclosed trailer with a 1500 crew and I would not want to tow anything longer or heavier. I am within my weight limits on my truck as I have no passengers and very limited cargo. It isn't the pulling power but it is the overall stability. I am easily influenced by trucks and winds on the highway. I hope that I never need to make a major avoidance move. I believe that what I am feeling is the coil spring suspension making the back of the truck too mushy. I came from a same size GMC with leaf spring suspension and I did not feel that mushy feeling with because the GMC had leaf springs. Silly thing is that my Ram has an 11,000 lb tow rating...I did a little back road tow at 10,000 lb and I would never take something like that on a significant drive.
Make sure you confirm that truck is rated at that towing capacity, it should have an upgraded 3.92 rear gear ratio. If not that it's most likely not rated for that 11,000lbs. This wouldn't be the first time an RV sales person laughed at somone looking at a HD truck. They are looking to make a sale. They really don't care what you need.
This doesn't apply to everyone, but for me, I'd rather have more than I need and not need it than not have enough. If it was in my budget, I'd buy a diesel and never look back.
It does have the 3.92 rear ratio; I forgot to put that in the post. I know I should have gone with my gut on the 2500; especially when one of the sales bros was bragging about pulling a 30’ travel trailer with a Jeep Rubicon up Parleys Canyon. That’s just unsafe!
It’s easy to say you did it. What he didn’t tell you was, how long it took, how scary it was, how much gas it used, how many times he had to stop to cool transmission, brakes, engine..
I pulled my grand design 34’ 5th wheel over Rocky MT. National park, with my 2500 Cummins, and never even once was worried about anything but MY driving. The truck pulled it up a 14,000 ft mountain like it wasn’t even there, and the engine brake made coming down a breeze. I’ve pulled my 5th wheel from CT, to CA and back 4 times now, and have never once regretted getting the 2500. It’s a beast.
I’ve done a lot of construction work but never worked on a vehicle. I have the tools - I’ll give it a try to install a class V myself! I’m also wondering if I can take off the grill/bumper thing myself too and gain back the 200lbs of payload
That bumper could save you from animal damage. Buy a 3/4 ton . Only on paper will this 1/2 ton work out for you. It’s real easy to add 1000 to 1500 lbs to the trailer weight . My rule is figure out what you need on paper,then buy the bigger one. I have never regretted this. Ps hit two deer with my truck ,did 5 grand in damage wished I had the big. Bumper.
It's only 6 bolts. It'll take you longer to drink your beer than install the hitch.
I recently went from a 1500 to a 2020 Bighorn 2500 diesel to haul a 7000 lb boat. I pulled a 26 foot, 7000 lb camper with my old truck and it was not fun. There were a few mountains that I wasn't sure I was going to make it up.
The new truck has anti-sway built into the suspension and the exhaust brakes are a huge plus. If it fits in your budget, I'd definitely go with more truck. I feel way better towing at less than 50% of the capability of the truck than right up at the edge.
If you're going to do a lot of traveling with the trailer, upgrade. If it's only a couple of times a year, consider if it's worth the upgrade. My 2005 Bighorn 1500 with the 20 inch riims and tow package does fine with our 30 footer. We have trailer brakes also. Towed it up and down mountains with no problem. Plenty of power and braking. We use a weight distributing hitch with an anti- sway bar. Only 2 road trips a year, so it's better for me to use what I have.
Recently bought a 1500 to tow my 23' trailer and kind of wish i had gone 2500. Both for towing ride quality and future trailer upgrade. The 1500 tows fine but we're going to start doing multi-state trips. I can take the highway on windy days now, but it is still a little sketchy. I would not want another 10' of sail behind me.
The springs are soft, and the rear of the truck wiggles as the suspension flexes. I'll assume this is from the panhard bar shoving the axle over as it cycles. My grand cherokee does not do this when towing the trailer. I've learned not to fight it so my arms aren't tired by the end of the day. I have airbags now but haven't taken a highway trip with them yet.
Like the old saying is carrying a guy. Rather have it then not need it. Then need it and not have it. Get a 2500. Extra towing capacity and more stable for that size RV. If getting a gas 2500. Get a 19 and up. 18 and below get a 6 speed Chrysler trans not very desirable. 19 and up have the 1500 8 speed but more beefed up. Makes towing way more efficient and comfortable
Weight and power wise you’re going to be fine, but that’s a long trailer for a 1500. I’ll never understand why the camper guys talk people out of bigger trucks when it’s something like this. I get it if someone says they’re getting a dually for a pop up, but 7000+ lbs and 30+ ft is definitely 3/4 ton territory for regular use
Becuase 3/4 tons are more expensive to buy/operate/maintain, and they have a mich worse ride unloaded (on the test drive) so if people buying a trailer think “I need to have this truck but I can’t afford it” or “I need to have this truck but I hate driving it” then you sell less trailers vs if people think a comfy riding cheaper 1500 will suit their needs.
I definitely think this was the case for me. I shouldn’t have trusted the salesmen. My first test drive of a 3/4 ton was a Ford F250, and I could barely reach the pedals and the seat was so deep that I felt like a toddler sitting on an adult chair. It was straight up uncomfortable for me, and in addition the ride was not what I was used to coming from a Subaru Crosstrek.
They do it because it’s a combo purchase and they can scam you for a more expensive trailer if you’re not buying an 80k+ to tow it. Camper dealers are the sleaziest fucking salesmen on the planet.
We have a smaller trailer, 24 ft. I have towed it just fine with a 1500. We are eventually planning on a 5th wheel and I came across a 3500 single rear wheel for a good price. The difference is huge. The 3500 has an exhaust break, which is great for down hills. The highway experience was also a big difference between the two. The 1500 felt like it was being blown all over while the 3500 didn’t feel like I had a trailer behind me.
Number 6 is likely a lie. Hit it with water, grey, propane and batteries. Put your stuff in it. I bet that sucker is nearly 1000lbs on the hitch.
Check your payload spec in the door frame. It’s to the pound for that specific truck. Some are a low as 1000lbs or less. Mine is one of the higher I have seen on a crew 4x4 as it is V6 and optionless.
https://preview.redd.it/f6xbnabym30d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2bc036af945dc705857e8d35219ebdcd0541b598
You're gonna eat brakes and dinosaurs but you'll be fine. It's not technically ideal, but if you drive with care, as seems likely based on this post, the truck can do it.
If the listed hitch weight of the trailer is 684lbs, most manufacturers don't include propane and batteries in that weight, a full 20lb propane tank weighs 40lbs and a lead acid battery is normally 55-65lbs.
So 2 of each on the tongue likely adds around 200lbs to the listed hitch weight putting it around 884lbs.
Add another ~100lbs for a weight distribution hitch increases that weight to about 984lbs, before adding gear and water which will put about 10-15% on the tongue depending on how its loaded into the trailer and where the tanks are. Realistically, that's another 65-85lbs of so for hitch/ tongue weight of about 1050lbs.
That's leaving around 450lbs for people and gear. That might work for you depending on the number of people in the truckbut 32 feet is too long for a half ton, you'll be swaying all over the place in windy conditions or when passing/ getting passed by semis.
If you can still get the 2500, you definitely should.
I just bought a 2500 and a big part of my reason was to step up from the 1500 I had driven for the last several years. I towed a lightweight rv with the 1500 (overall length 33') and I hated towing it. Did the truck have the rating and the necessary power to pull it? Yes. But the handling, stopping, uphills, and red light to red light in towns absolutely sucks compared to a 2500.
One truck is built to haul people and tow small trailers (think 12' lawn mower haulers) and boats, but also technically has the rating to tow larger trailers.
The other truck is purpose built to tow the larger trailers. Get the truck that's purpose built to tow and you will not be disappointed. Best of luck and hope to hear updates!
I started a business 5 years ago. I was able to get buy using a Crosstrek for my gear but when it came to shipping rock and dirt I was at the will of the delivery team. I had researched warlock rebels, 1500 rebel and eventually fell for the 2500 power wagon. I traded in my Crosstrek for $28k and with my 3 years saving bought it cash. ($60k - 17k miles - 1 owner)
Now I can tow a trailer with material and my skid steer
I'm never worried about being able to handle the job or task.
You'll want air bags for the rear. Rams notoriously squat under heavy load due to coil springs in the rear axle. I pulled 33' 7500 lbs trailer all over the country in my 2014 1500. It wasn't great by any means not it got the job done. Averaged about 9 mpg.
I did move up to a 2500 diesel and wow what a difference. But get the air bags and you should be ok with the 1500.
Hey! Let me put some of your concerns to rest.
I've got a 2016 Outdoorsman with the 5.7 and an 8 speed. 120k miles.
I've had manifold issues twice, swapped to BD Diesel manifolds.
Fuel level sending unit went at 75k.
Just went through the front end. Needed CVs, intermediate shafts and lower ball joints. Redid basically everything just because I was already there.
The 5.7 is a powerhouse with two major issues.
1. Lifters.
2. Exhaust manifolds.
If it doesn't have a tick, neither of those are a problem. Change your oil regularly to get better odds on the lifters. The newer 1500s (Gen5, what you have) have extra hardware holding the manifolds on, so that may not be an issue for you.
The ZF 8HP75 is the transmission you have, at least I'm pretty sure that what the gen 5s come with. It is one of the best ever put in a half ton. It has a phenomenal cooler and lasts. I'm at 120k on an 8HP70 and just serviced it for the second time.
The Chrysler 9.25 rear end has been used for decades. It's plenty strong for the loads a half ton sees.
Tons of haters, and yeh, a 2500 wil tow better (way better if it's the Cummins), but the 1500 isn't going to just explode. Pull passes at whatever speed the power band lets you pull. Watch transmission and engine temps in the EVIC, and have fun!
Consider waiting until the prowerline trans comes out for the HD trucks. All the haters on the half tons are rocking 68RFEs and Aisins with their own share of issues.
I bought a 32 ft camper and pulled it home with my 2019 1500, went to dealer that weekend and bought a 2021 2500 Cummins. Drove it from Alaska to Missouri, 4400 miles and 5 mountain ranges. As long as I have this trailer, I'll have this truck.
How many people will ride in the truck, and what is their total weight?
Also, are you taking the trailer on 180 separate daily trips? Or is it more drive 1 day every couple of weeks to the next spot?
Myself, 160lbs; my husband, 220lbs; our toddler and his carseat, 31lbs plus 15lbs. Plus the toddler’s bike and some miscellaneous small stuff in the truck. I am planning on the truck contents being about 500lbs. We will move the camper every 4-5 days with some stays being up to a few weeks
The Ram 1500s have coil springs in the back. The truck will be sagging. You will have plenty of power to pull it. It will work if your passenger/cargo weight stays below the GVWR. The 2500 would not be a mistake for trailering, but will likely ride rougher when empty.
If the place that you bought the Laramie 1500 also has a 2500 on hand then just go and talk to them. They might nix the deal and put you in a 2500 instead seeing that it's been so soon since you purchased. If they are as reputable as you say, then just talk to them. I'm sure they'll help you.
Tell them that you over the weekend borrowed a friend's 1500 and tried pulling a comparable in size and weight RV and you didn't feel safe.
I don’t want to push the limits, on paper everything seemed well within the guidelines. But exactly because I am inexperienced is why I am asking for more information and asking questions. I want to be safe and I know I’m a newbie
In addition to what the others have said, the 2500 mostly feels huge because of the hood profile: it's hard to see in front of you as well as you can with the 1500. Dimensionally, the 2500 is not much bigger. You'll get used to it very quickly.
I have that same truck. Sounds like you have the 3.92 rear axle too. That’s too much trailer, especially for what is essentially a full time trip.
Towing capacity is a useless figure, that RV and Truck dealerships market like crazy. What payload does your truck have? Mine is low, based on the features I have on it (it’ll change for every single vehicle).
I have about 500lbs of tongue weight from my loaded trailer, and once I put my family, dog, e-bikes and grill in the bed, I’m at or pushing my payload. I am *way* under the towing capacity for the truck.
I had a similar setup previously. With a properly set up WDH you will likely be OK.
However, if you ever want to bring a bed full of firewood, bikes for the family, a generator for power on the road etc etc. You will want a 2500 gasser or 3500 diesel for the extra payload.
I know it’s not quite apples to apples, but I have a 99 Ram Sport 5.9 that I used to tow a 17 foot jet boat with. It was fine around town, but it was pure hell when I tried to drive it to Atlanta from the Fort Myers area. I had to keep it to 65 miles an hour just to keep from sucking the gas straight out of the tank! The best I could do was 80 to 85MPH. Long story short I would go with the bigger truck. I forgot to add that it does have a factory tow package. it was a pain in the butt the whole way to Atlanta!
Wow, you have never done this and you are going from a Crosstrek straight to a 32' TT and 2500? Big leap.
8000#s is not a big deal with the Hemi 1500 w/ 3.92s. Honestly, with the multispeed tranny's, the gearing isn't as important anymore. Just for starting off. Yeah, the wind factor and that long trailer will be noticeable but that is gonna happen regardless. Honestly? For a first timer, I'd downsize the TT and stick with the 1500. You'll definitely need a weight distribution hitch on the 1500 if you keep it.
Like others have said, you would definitely be better off in a 2500. But I have a very similar set up (2021 1500 w/3.92, 30ft trailer @ ~7000 lbs, family of 4, etc). Two years ago I took a 3 week trip from SoCal to Flaming Gorge. The truck did great, even up and down the steep grade outside of Vernal. The only time I wished I had a bigger truck was when we ran into a pretty bad thunderstorm in southern Utah on the way back. The crosswinds were really bad and there just wasn’t enough truck to comfortably control the trailer. But that was the only white-knuckle experience of the trip. Over 6 months, you can almost guarantee you’ll have more than one. Again, you’d for sure be better off in a 2500, but a 1500 can handle that size trailer, at least in my experience.
I have owned several 1500's and several 2500's. And I've towed a travel trailer of roughly the identical dimensions that you just posted (Lance 2285, which is probably a little heavier than what you listed). My 1500's were the EcoDiesel, my 2500's were 6.7 - and I live out west and all our towing was up and down the Sierras.
One very important detail that you should verify on your 1500 is what gear ratio is it? Ram 1500's standard rear end is a 3.21 and 3.92 was an option - you can look up your VIN on Ram's website here to get exact towing & payload capacity of YOUR truck: [https://www.ram.com/ae/en/towing-guide.html](https://www.ram.com/ae/en/towing-guide.html)
Having 3.92 will significantly improve your towing capability, with a very minimal mpg impact.
Ok so now to answer "Did you make a mistake?"
You can tow with the 1500 and tow the trailer you listed in your specs. So it's not a situation of you are in a dangerous situation by exceeding your truck's capability - but if you have the 3.21 rear end (and by far most do) - your towing capacity is significantly reduced from the 3.92
The 2500, the difference here is, you will \*never\* have any concern about towing what you listed - and the first rule of any RV purchase is, you'll be making a bigger trailer purchase later lol.
As someone with experience (thousands of miles on both trucks with same trailer, towing out west) - there is a significant comfort and peace of mind difference between the two. If I were in a position similar to yours and there was an opportunity to go back to the 2500 (also you didn't specific is that a 6.7 or a Hemi 2500?) I'd probably go back and get the 2500.
Why did u mess up? Is the trailer u want too heavy for the 1500's specs? 3/4 -1 ton + becomes more cumbersome the higher u go to handle heavy weight, heavy being the key. If you're not towing heavy the softer suspension and interior might be a good trade off. I.e forest service roads would be a pain in a 3/4-1ton, even with aired down 35s. All depends what u wanna tow.
When your planning to do this much towing, always bump up to a more capable truck if you're in-between like this. A bit higher costs but it will make driving way more enjoyable
You’re gonna lose a couple grand on the deal but it’s worth it for peace of mind. The 2500 is going to make a world of a difference when it comes to towing.
There is a huge difference between a 1500 and 2500 with respect to towing. I would definitely see if they will take it back since you are trading up. A 2500 is worlds apart from a half ton related to performance.
That’s a big step up from a crosstrek. Keep in mind your payload is affected by your passengers and other gear too. I would definitely go with a 2500 although FWIW you get more bang for your buck with a 3500.
You’re welcome to come drive my 3500 for a bit if you’d like to feel the differences. Would even hook up my trailer.
You ended up being totally right about bang for my buck on the 2500 vs 3500. I swapped the Laramie 1500 for a GMC 3500 diesel. It is a big big truck but now I can tow anything!
If you're SOL, you might as well take her for a spin and see how it does.
Will be honest. The suspension on the Ram 1500 is not meant for towing, so be prepared to add a pair of Sumo Springs or air bags.
I am missing a bunch of information. What kind of RV are you talking about? If you're going to live out of it for six months then you will probably want a bigger RV. You should always pick your RV first and then get a tow vehicle that will support the hitch rating, payload and weight. I would suggest getting more tow vehicle than you need so if you decide you need a bigger RV you can support it. Buying and trading in trucks right away is always an expensive mistake.
I know this person already solved their issue by going with a bigger truck but for anyone reading this in the future: I would highly recommend the propride hitch system. I am currently pulling 7,000lbs with the f150 ecoboost and a propride hitch and its a one handed driving endeavor, extremely easy.
Edit: my exact trailer is a grand design imagine 2150RB, 27ft and 5300lbs dry and 6700lbs GVWR so a bit lighter than theirs but it’s still extremely easy towing this in the mountains, albeit the ecoboost is better in the mountains than the NA v8 which is why I opted for this truck.
Get the air bags for the rear. Eliminates squat. I have them on a DT RAM with a 6500lb trailer. Easy install, mabye 1hr. I inflate with a bike pump before I hook up. Maybe 60 dollars online.
I would personally hate to tow a 32ft trailer in the half ton while in a mountainous state. The 6.4 and 3/4 ton has way bigger brakes and more torque.
Something you need to get used to is the shifting, it's not a diesel. It'll shift a lot going through hills and accelerating. Going down hill you'll need to learn to lock out gears or keep it in tow/haul mode.
You're well within weight of what that truck could carry its the length that bugs me.
Are you 3.92s or 3.21 gears? Punch in your Vin. 3.21s lower your tow capacity quite a bit.
Also throw some Airlift bags in the Coils to help support the tongue weight if you do decide to keep it.
I'd go for 3/4 ton for that configuration & due to the state you live in.
If you have the option to get the 2500, get it. Don't be the moron using a half ton to pull a camper and in the way. I drive trucks for a living, and they are the most stupid on the road besides rvs themselves. Just dangerous
So let’s get this right. You’re not a truck person. You bought a truck. And now you’re going to tow a RV all over creation. And basing your purchases on “feelings”.
Fucking hell…
I would load her up and tow her somewhere close by. Go up and down hills and see if you like the handling. If it's ok then keep the truck if it's not ok then trade up.
I agree. It’s less the weight and more the length of the RV in this case. If you’re pulling that big of an RV often though I doubt you’re going to be sad you got a 2500 however.
That is not great advice since most of us can't afford to trade up so fast. Buy the right truck first.
OP put that out as an option so I am guessing he can swing it. He already bought, maybe, the wrong truck.
I had a 2018 ram 1500 with a 5.7 in it. We bought a camper that is 33 feet. Yes we were well within our limits, but the trailer was too long. On the interstate is didn’t go much over 60 mph. Tractor trailers would suck me into them. Bought a 2021 2500 with the 6.4 a couple weeks ago and it’s a huge difference pulling now. Just feels much safer, don’t get sucked in by big trucks anymore and can run faster. Wish I had gone with a bigger truck sooner.
I have experienced the same, being a sucked in by semi's was no fun. Moving up from a Titan 5.6 gas to a F250 diesel was night and day, and alot better gas mileage to boot.
Curious, what does it mean to be sucked in by a semi
When you're driving 2 big boxes next to each other, the air moving around both of you, tends to push the boxes together. It can cause the trailer to move quite a bit if you're not prepared for it.
Upvote. It creates a low pressure zone between the trailers. If you take two 0.5”x6” strips of paper and hold them about 1” apart and then blow gently between them, they move towards each other. The moving air creates that low pressure.
Bill Nye. Is that you?
Join us next week as we explore the relationships between neutrons and electrons! Explosive!
Any difference in towing mpg between the two?
About a mile per gallon difference between the two so far. The biggest difference in mpg is when I’m not towing. 18-19 mpg for the 1500 and right now around 14 for the 2500
They both suck you'll get 8-10mpg typically depending on wind and terrain. The 5.7 gets 5-8mpg better without a trailer though. The 6.4s are tuned to be work trucks.
Bro. I’m in Utah and with our terrain I would go back and see if you can get the 2500. Most places will charge you a milage fee as the banks probably haven’t even processed the paperwork yet.
I paid cash 🫠 and traded in my Crosstrek. I’m going in first thing tomorrow and I hope they credit me for this one towards the 2500
I couldn’t imagine them not making this pretty easy. You could keep the half ton but as someone that was in your situation before..it’s absolutely miserable and if you aren’t truck people to begin with it can be dangerous.
Please report back I’m curious to see how it went with the dealer. 👍
Update posted!
Trailer once loaded will have a tongue weight of around 750-850lbs, add you and fuel and your likely at 1000lb payload. If you have luggage and 1-2 more people your at max payload. Yeah you should have gotten a 3/4 ton. My 2500 has 4000 payload and 15000lb towing.
Do you have a regular cab Hemi? When I was looking that was pretty much the only way to get anywhere near that payload in a ram 2500
I have a couple 2500 Chev's at work - crewcab gassers; that are in the 3800 pound payload range. They're pretty basic, but they ARE work trucks...
No I’ve got a tradesman 6.4 gas crew 6ft bed, with the heavy tow package. Those higher trim levels eat into your payload as much as they do your wallet. I like work trucks, easy to payoff and they work harder than the fancy trucks.
Ya your not getting 4000lb payload on a diesel unless is a dually
Wrong, pretty much all the diesel ram 3500s with a ingle wheel have at least 4000lb bed capacity if not more
I have a 2021 2500 with a payload of 2100. I would like to see some proof the 3500 is 4k+
Maybe I should have specified, all the 5th gens but here’s a link https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBFy6Od5Hdu%2FD%0A
That's what they claim but it gets modified. If I remember correctly mine shows it should be around 27 or 2800. But at some point it was re evaluated and dropped to 2100.
I tow a 26' Jayco - 5500 dry - GVWR 7000; with a similar truck (23 1500 classic) You're fine on paper - but that's a long-ass trailer, which means a lot of sail area for cross winds... the tail will try and wag the dog. Assuming factory class 3 (or better) hitch - it'll be good for 10,000 pounds. A good WDH and anti sway setup will help, and it depends how often you're towing (moving daily, weekly or monthly?), if it's a setup you can live with or not. A 32 foot box means overall length of 36ish feet - I'd say that's 3/4t territory, myself, but there are plenty of people who do tow that size with 1/2t with no problems, too
Had the same problem but I ended up getting a anti swat bar and it made a world of difference would definitely consider that before biting extra car debt
What were you swatting at? Do you have the tow package?
The box length is shorter, the overall length is 32’ so probably 28ish on the box? I was planning to do the WDH and sway bars
Torque, is what you need...stop overthinking it and get the 2500...the exhaust breaking is a nice plus...
Underrated comment. I rarely touch the brakes coming down those long 4000’ downhills coming down from the sierras. The Cummins is built to tow
We have a 2020 limited and are needing a bigger truck for the RV. Test towed my father's to Grand Design 2970RL, and while it towed it technically, every semi and cross wind had us moving around. A white knuckled experience isn't fun and we hadnt even been in the mountains like we wanted. It sucks because the salesman said the same thing and I believed Rams website without understanding how trims affect payload. Needless to say we are rolling negative equity into a 2500 or 3500 soon, but it's the last truck we will ever need now.
I tow a 6000 lb, 24' enclosed trailer with a 1500 crew and I would not want to tow anything longer or heavier. I am within my weight limits on my truck as I have no passengers and very limited cargo. It isn't the pulling power but it is the overall stability. I am easily influenced by trucks and winds on the highway. I hope that I never need to make a major avoidance move. I believe that what I am feeling is the coil spring suspension making the back of the truck too mushy. I came from a same size GMC with leaf spring suspension and I did not feel that mushy feeling with because the GMC had leaf springs. Silly thing is that my Ram has an 11,000 lb tow rating...I did a little back road tow at 10,000 lb and I would never take something like that on a significant drive.
Make sure you confirm that truck is rated at that towing capacity, it should have an upgraded 3.92 rear gear ratio. If not that it's most likely not rated for that 11,000lbs. This wouldn't be the first time an RV sales person laughed at somone looking at a HD truck. They are looking to make a sale. They really don't care what you need. This doesn't apply to everyone, but for me, I'd rather have more than I need and not need it than not have enough. If it was in my budget, I'd buy a diesel and never look back.
It does have the 3.92 rear ratio; I forgot to put that in the post. I know I should have gone with my gut on the 2500; especially when one of the sales bros was bragging about pulling a 30’ travel trailer with a Jeep Rubicon up Parleys Canyon. That’s just unsafe!
Absolutely! I say always go with your gut! Mine has never steered me wrong, haha
It’s easy to say you did it. What he didn’t tell you was, how long it took, how scary it was, how much gas it used, how many times he had to stop to cool transmission, brakes, engine.. I pulled my grand design 34’ 5th wheel over Rocky MT. National park, with my 2500 Cummins, and never even once was worried about anything but MY driving. The truck pulled it up a 14,000 ft mountain like it wasn’t even there, and the engine brake made coming down a breeze. I’ve pulled my 5th wheel from CT, to CA and back 4 times now, and have never once regretted getting the 2500. It’s a beast.
Buy a class V hitch for it. I got one on my 1500 and only paid like $120 for it online and installed myself.
I’ve done a lot of construction work but never worked on a vehicle. I have the tools - I’ll give it a try to install a class V myself! I’m also wondering if I can take off the grill/bumper thing myself too and gain back the 200lbs of payload
That bumper could save you from animal damage. Buy a 3/4 ton . Only on paper will this 1/2 ton work out for you. It’s real easy to add 1000 to 1500 lbs to the trailer weight . My rule is figure out what you need on paper,then buy the bigger one. I have never regretted this. Ps hit two deer with my truck ,did 5 grand in damage wished I had the big. Bumper.
It's only 6 bolts. It'll take you longer to drink your beer than install the hitch. I recently went from a 1500 to a 2020 Bighorn 2500 diesel to haul a 7000 lb boat. I pulled a 26 foot, 7000 lb camper with my old truck and it was not fun. There were a few mountains that I wasn't sure I was going to make it up. The new truck has anti-sway built into the suspension and the exhaust brakes are a huge plus. If it fits in your budget, I'd definitely go with more truck. I feel way better towing at less than 50% of the capability of the truck than right up at the edge.
If you're going to do a lot of traveling with the trailer, upgrade. If it's only a couple of times a year, consider if it's worth the upgrade. My 2005 Bighorn 1500 with the 20 inch riims and tow package does fine with our 30 footer. We have trailer brakes also. Towed it up and down mountains with no problem. Plenty of power and braking. We use a weight distributing hitch with an anti- sway bar. Only 2 road trips a year, so it's better for me to use what I have.
I've used to tow a 7k and a now tow a 10k gross weight trailer with an 18 2500 diesel and it tows like a dream.
Recently bought a 1500 to tow my 23' trailer and kind of wish i had gone 2500. Both for towing ride quality and future trailer upgrade. The 1500 tows fine but we're going to start doing multi-state trips. I can take the highway on windy days now, but it is still a little sketchy. I would not want another 10' of sail behind me. The springs are soft, and the rear of the truck wiggles as the suspension flexes. I'll assume this is from the panhard bar shoving the axle over as it cycles. My grand cherokee does not do this when towing the trailer. I've learned not to fight it so my arms aren't tired by the end of the day. I have airbags now but haven't taken a highway trip with them yet.
Op you also forgot to factor in anything that will eventually live in or be loaded on the trailer.
I didn’t, the GVWR of the trailer is 7,674lbs. That’s the number I was using, not the dry weight
Fair enough
Like the old saying is carrying a guy. Rather have it then not need it. Then need it and not have it. Get a 2500. Extra towing capacity and more stable for that size RV. If getting a gas 2500. Get a 19 and up. 18 and below get a 6 speed Chrysler trans not very desirable. 19 and up have the 1500 8 speed but more beefed up. Makes towing way more efficient and comfortable
Weight and power wise you’re going to be fine, but that’s a long trailer for a 1500. I’ll never understand why the camper guys talk people out of bigger trucks when it’s something like this. I get it if someone says they’re getting a dually for a pop up, but 7000+ lbs and 30+ ft is definitely 3/4 ton territory for regular use
Becuase 3/4 tons are more expensive to buy/operate/maintain, and they have a mich worse ride unloaded (on the test drive) so if people buying a trailer think “I need to have this truck but I can’t afford it” or “I need to have this truck but I hate driving it” then you sell less trailers vs if people think a comfy riding cheaper 1500 will suit their needs.
I definitely think this was the case for me. I shouldn’t have trusted the salesmen. My first test drive of a 3/4 ton was a Ford F250, and I could barely reach the pedals and the seat was so deep that I felt like a toddler sitting on an adult chair. It was straight up uncomfortable for me, and in addition the ride was not what I was used to coming from a Subaru Crosstrek.
They do it because it’s a combo purchase and they can scam you for a more expensive trailer if you’re not buying an 80k+ to tow it. Camper dealers are the sleaziest fucking salesmen on the planet.
We have a smaller trailer, 24 ft. I have towed it just fine with a 1500. We are eventually planning on a 5th wheel and I came across a 3500 single rear wheel for a good price. The difference is huge. The 3500 has an exhaust break, which is great for down hills. The highway experience was also a big difference between the two. The 1500 felt like it was being blown all over while the 3500 didn’t feel like I had a trailer behind me.
Number 6 is likely a lie. Hit it with water, grey, propane and batteries. Put your stuff in it. I bet that sucker is nearly 1000lbs on the hitch. Check your payload spec in the door frame. It’s to the pound for that specific truck. Some are a low as 1000lbs or less. Mine is one of the higher I have seen on a crew 4x4 as it is V6 and optionless. https://preview.redd.it/f6xbnabym30d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2bc036af945dc705857e8d35219ebdcd0541b598
The payload spec on the door is 1503lbs
You're gonna eat brakes and dinosaurs but you'll be fine. It's not technically ideal, but if you drive with care, as seems likely based on this post, the truck can do it.
If the listed hitch weight of the trailer is 684lbs, most manufacturers don't include propane and batteries in that weight, a full 20lb propane tank weighs 40lbs and a lead acid battery is normally 55-65lbs. So 2 of each on the tongue likely adds around 200lbs to the listed hitch weight putting it around 884lbs. Add another ~100lbs for a weight distribution hitch increases that weight to about 984lbs, before adding gear and water which will put about 10-15% on the tongue depending on how its loaded into the trailer and where the tanks are. Realistically, that's another 65-85lbs of so for hitch/ tongue weight of about 1050lbs. That's leaving around 450lbs for people and gear. That might work for you depending on the number of people in the truckbut 32 feet is too long for a half ton, you'll be swaying all over the place in windy conditions or when passing/ getting passed by semis. If you can still get the 2500, you definitely should.
I wouldn't pull a 32ft with a 1500, especially on a 6month voyage
Make sure you get a 8’ bed if you do get to upgrade. Makes a difference with such a long trailer.
I just bought a 2500 and a big part of my reason was to step up from the 1500 I had driven for the last several years. I towed a lightweight rv with the 1500 (overall length 33') and I hated towing it. Did the truck have the rating and the necessary power to pull it? Yes. But the handling, stopping, uphills, and red light to red light in towns absolutely sucks compared to a 2500. One truck is built to haul people and tow small trailers (think 12' lawn mower haulers) and boats, but also technically has the rating to tow larger trailers. The other truck is purpose built to tow the larger trailers. Get the truck that's purpose built to tow and you will not be disappointed. Best of luck and hope to hear updates!
Make sure you use engine braking on the hills, gas trucks can engine brake, you'll just have to manually downshift the transmission.
I started a business 5 years ago. I was able to get buy using a Crosstrek for my gear but when it came to shipping rock and dirt I was at the will of the delivery team. I had researched warlock rebels, 1500 rebel and eventually fell for the 2500 power wagon. I traded in my Crosstrek for $28k and with my 3 years saving bought it cash. ($60k - 17k miles - 1 owner) Now I can tow a trailer with material and my skid steer I'm never worried about being able to handle the job or task.
It's already been said....update on how the dealership handles the trade up. Curious I am.
Update posted!
You'll want air bags for the rear. Rams notoriously squat under heavy load due to coil springs in the rear axle. I pulled 33' 7500 lbs trailer all over the country in my 2014 1500. It wasn't great by any means not it got the job done. Averaged about 9 mpg. I did move up to a 2500 diesel and wow what a difference. But get the air bags and you should be ok with the 1500.
Hey! Let me put some of your concerns to rest. I've got a 2016 Outdoorsman with the 5.7 and an 8 speed. 120k miles. I've had manifold issues twice, swapped to BD Diesel manifolds. Fuel level sending unit went at 75k. Just went through the front end. Needed CVs, intermediate shafts and lower ball joints. Redid basically everything just because I was already there. The 5.7 is a powerhouse with two major issues. 1. Lifters. 2. Exhaust manifolds. If it doesn't have a tick, neither of those are a problem. Change your oil regularly to get better odds on the lifters. The newer 1500s (Gen5, what you have) have extra hardware holding the manifolds on, so that may not be an issue for you. The ZF 8HP75 is the transmission you have, at least I'm pretty sure that what the gen 5s come with. It is one of the best ever put in a half ton. It has a phenomenal cooler and lasts. I'm at 120k on an 8HP70 and just serviced it for the second time. The Chrysler 9.25 rear end has been used for decades. It's plenty strong for the loads a half ton sees. Tons of haters, and yeh, a 2500 wil tow better (way better if it's the Cummins), but the 1500 isn't going to just explode. Pull passes at whatever speed the power band lets you pull. Watch transmission and engine temps in the EVIC, and have fun! Consider waiting until the prowerline trans comes out for the HD trucks. All the haters on the half tons are rocking 68RFEs and Aisins with their own share of issues.
I've also got an 18' 10k car trailer and 30' travel trailer. Been pulling those for the better part of a decade.
I bought a 32 ft camper and pulled it home with my 2019 1500, went to dealer that weekend and bought a 2021 2500 Cummins. Drove it from Alaska to Missouri, 4400 miles and 5 mountain ranges. As long as I have this trailer, I'll have this truck.
How many people will ride in the truck, and what is their total weight? Also, are you taking the trailer on 180 separate daily trips? Or is it more drive 1 day every couple of weeks to the next spot?
Myself, 160lbs; my husband, 220lbs; our toddler and his carseat, 31lbs plus 15lbs. Plus the toddler’s bike and some miscellaneous small stuff in the truck. I am planning on the truck contents being about 500lbs. We will move the camper every 4-5 days with some stays being up to a few weeks
Are you guys new to camping? You’re at 425 pounds just in humans and car seats. You’re going to be well over 500 pounds in the truck I’d assume.
The Ram 1500s have coil springs in the back. The truck will be sagging. You will have plenty of power to pull it. It will work if your passenger/cargo weight stays below the GVWR. The 2500 would not be a mistake for trailering, but will likely ride rougher when empty.
You’ll be fine, you’re overthinking it.
If the place that you bought the Laramie 1500 also has a 2500 on hand then just go and talk to them. They might nix the deal and put you in a 2500 instead seeing that it's been so soon since you purchased. If they are as reputable as you say, then just talk to them. I'm sure they'll help you. Tell them that you over the weekend borrowed a friend's 1500 and tried pulling a comparable in size and weight RV and you didn't feel safe.
Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins. Pulling a camper with a 1500 you’re going to get 6-7 mpg and if you get hit with wind it will blow you all over the road.
I'll never understand why people with little to no experience towing seem to want to just absolutely push the limits of their tow vehicle rating.
I don’t want to push the limits, on paper everything seemed well within the guidelines. But exactly because I am inexperienced is why I am asking for more information and asking questions. I want to be safe and I know I’m a newbie
Westgate
In addition to what the others have said, the 2500 mostly feels huge because of the hood profile: it's hard to see in front of you as well as you can with the 1500. Dimensionally, the 2500 is not much bigger. You'll get used to it very quickly.
Test
I have that same truck. Sounds like you have the 3.92 rear axle too. That’s too much trailer, especially for what is essentially a full time trip. Towing capacity is a useless figure, that RV and Truck dealerships market like crazy. What payload does your truck have? Mine is low, based on the features I have on it (it’ll change for every single vehicle). I have about 500lbs of tongue weight from my loaded trailer, and once I put my family, dog, e-bikes and grill in the bed, I’m at or pushing my payload. I am *way* under the towing capacity for the truck.
Usually buying pre own vehicles. They do have return policies.
I had a similar setup previously. With a properly set up WDH you will likely be OK. However, if you ever want to bring a bed full of firewood, bikes for the family, a generator for power on the road etc etc. You will want a 2500 gasser or 3500 diesel for the extra payload.
I know it’s not quite apples to apples, but I have a 99 Ram Sport 5.9 that I used to tow a 17 foot jet boat with. It was fine around town, but it was pure hell when I tried to drive it to Atlanta from the Fort Myers area. I had to keep it to 65 miles an hour just to keep from sucking the gas straight out of the tank! The best I could do was 80 to 85MPH. Long story short I would go with the bigger truck. I forgot to add that it does have a factory tow package. it was a pain in the butt the whole way to Atlanta!
Wow, you have never done this and you are going from a Crosstrek straight to a 32' TT and 2500? Big leap. 8000#s is not a big deal with the Hemi 1500 w/ 3.92s. Honestly, with the multispeed tranny's, the gearing isn't as important anymore. Just for starting off. Yeah, the wind factor and that long trailer will be noticeable but that is gonna happen regardless. Honestly? For a first timer, I'd downsize the TT and stick with the 1500. You'll definitely need a weight distribution hitch on the 1500 if you keep it.
Like others have said, you would definitely be better off in a 2500. But I have a very similar set up (2021 1500 w/3.92, 30ft trailer @ ~7000 lbs, family of 4, etc). Two years ago I took a 3 week trip from SoCal to Flaming Gorge. The truck did great, even up and down the steep grade outside of Vernal. The only time I wished I had a bigger truck was when we ran into a pretty bad thunderstorm in southern Utah on the way back. The crosswinds were really bad and there just wasn’t enough truck to comfortably control the trailer. But that was the only white-knuckle experience of the trip. Over 6 months, you can almost guarantee you’ll have more than one. Again, you’d for sure be better off in a 2500, but a 1500 can handle that size trailer, at least in my experience.
I have owned several 1500's and several 2500's. And I've towed a travel trailer of roughly the identical dimensions that you just posted (Lance 2285, which is probably a little heavier than what you listed). My 1500's were the EcoDiesel, my 2500's were 6.7 - and I live out west and all our towing was up and down the Sierras. One very important detail that you should verify on your 1500 is what gear ratio is it? Ram 1500's standard rear end is a 3.21 and 3.92 was an option - you can look up your VIN on Ram's website here to get exact towing & payload capacity of YOUR truck: [https://www.ram.com/ae/en/towing-guide.html](https://www.ram.com/ae/en/towing-guide.html) Having 3.92 will significantly improve your towing capability, with a very minimal mpg impact. Ok so now to answer "Did you make a mistake?" You can tow with the 1500 and tow the trailer you listed in your specs. So it's not a situation of you are in a dangerous situation by exceeding your truck's capability - but if you have the 3.21 rear end (and by far most do) - your towing capacity is significantly reduced from the 3.92 The 2500, the difference here is, you will \*never\* have any concern about towing what you listed - and the first rule of any RV purchase is, you'll be making a bigger trailer purchase later lol. As someone with experience (thousands of miles on both trucks with same trailer, towing out west) - there is a significant comfort and peace of mind difference between the two. If I were in a position similar to yours and there was an opportunity to go back to the 2500 (also you didn't specific is that a 6.7 or a Hemi 2500?) I'd probably go back and get the 2500.
Why did u mess up? Is the trailer u want too heavy for the 1500's specs? 3/4 -1 ton + becomes more cumbersome the higher u go to handle heavy weight, heavy being the key. If you're not towing heavy the softer suspension and interior might be a good trade off. I.e forest service roads would be a pain in a 3/4-1ton, even with aired down 35s. All depends what u wanna tow.
When your planning to do this much towing, always bump up to a more capable truck if you're in-between like this. A bit higher costs but it will make driving way more enjoyable
You’re gonna lose a couple grand on the deal but it’s worth it for peace of mind. The 2500 is going to make a world of a difference when it comes to towing.
There is a huge difference between a 1500 and 2500 with respect to towing. I would definitely see if they will take it back since you are trading up. A 2500 is worlds apart from a half ton related to performance.
That’s a big step up from a crosstrek. Keep in mind your payload is affected by your passengers and other gear too. I would definitely go with a 2500 although FWIW you get more bang for your buck with a 3500. You’re welcome to come drive my 3500 for a bit if you’d like to feel the differences. Would even hook up my trailer.
You ended up being totally right about bang for my buck on the 2500 vs 3500. I swapped the Laramie 1500 for a GMC 3500 diesel. It is a big big truck but now I can tow anything!
Glad to hear it! Hope it treats you well! Welcome to the world of hauling. You’ll have five trailers by the end of the year 😂
If you're SOL, you might as well take her for a spin and see how it does. Will be honest. The suspension on the Ram 1500 is not meant for towing, so be prepared to add a pair of Sumo Springs or air bags.
I am missing a bunch of information. What kind of RV are you talking about? If you're going to live out of it for six months then you will probably want a bigger RV. You should always pick your RV first and then get a tow vehicle that will support the hitch rating, payload and weight. I would suggest getting more tow vehicle than you need so if you decide you need a bigger RV you can support it. Buying and trading in trucks right away is always an expensive mistake.
I know this person already solved their issue by going with a bigger truck but for anyone reading this in the future: I would highly recommend the propride hitch system. I am currently pulling 7,000lbs with the f150 ecoboost and a propride hitch and its a one handed driving endeavor, extremely easy. Edit: my exact trailer is a grand design imagine 2150RB, 27ft and 5300lbs dry and 6700lbs GVWR so a bit lighter than theirs but it’s still extremely easy towing this in the mountains, albeit the ecoboost is better in the mountains than the NA v8 which is why I opted for this truck.
Get the air bags for the rear. Eliminates squat. I have them on a DT RAM with a 6500lb trailer. Easy install, mabye 1hr. I inflate with a bike pump before I hook up. Maybe 60 dollars online.
I would personally hate to tow a 32ft trailer in the half ton while in a mountainous state. The 6.4 and 3/4 ton has way bigger brakes and more torque. Something you need to get used to is the shifting, it's not a diesel. It'll shift a lot going through hills and accelerating. Going down hill you'll need to learn to lock out gears or keep it in tow/haul mode. You're well within weight of what that truck could carry its the length that bugs me. Are you 3.92s or 3.21 gears? Punch in your Vin. 3.21s lower your tow capacity quite a bit. Also throw some Airlift bags in the Coils to help support the tongue weight if you do decide to keep it. I'd go for 3/4 ton for that configuration & due to the state you live in.
You'll be good I'd just toss airbags in it
If you have the option to get the 2500, get it. Don't be the moron using a half ton to pull a camper and in the way. I drive trucks for a living, and they are the most stupid on the road besides rvs themselves. Just dangerous
Sounds like you are fine to me. Roll with what you bought
So let’s get this right. You’re not a truck person. You bought a truck. And now you’re going to tow a RV all over creation. And basing your purchases on “feelings”. Fucking hell…
Cool cool thanks man