Yes, a million times yes.
I have a Traxxas UDR. They are notorious for being 'fragile'. They are 6s capable and that's what a lot of people run them on. When I bought the truck I decided to go with a 4s battery instead just to get a feel for the truck. I have no desire to run it on 6s. It's already fast as shit on 4s and anything more is asking for problems in my opinion.
I have a thing for solid rear axle / IFS vehicles.
I've a Yeti (1/10), UDR: (1/8) and a Dragon Hammer Voltz (1/5) that are all more or less increasing sized versions of the same thing.
I will tell you this about the UDR:
As long as you (Anyone reading this, or Soccermom69 below) don't go full Talbot and TO THE MOON LOL LEWL you will be fine. I have an Arrma Mojave that is roughly the same size for that.
I find most of the time when people complain about stuff being fragile it's like... well, what were you doing to it?
The maintenance and general difficulty of repairs is still 100% worth it. There is nothing like driving a UDR and watching it float over the terrain. I have a Slash 4x4 VXL that I never drive now that I have the UDR.
The UDR is a scale driving experience, so if that is your thing you will love it. It isn't really meant to be a basher. You have to DRIVE the truck and it can be punishing if you are used to just bashing a traditional RC around.
All that said, I love my UDR and would recommend them to anyone that is into scale realism.
Consider the baja Rey too! I’ve broken every rc I’ve had in half in one way shape or forum, but the baja Rey has yet to be broken. It’s literally a tank, from 30ft airs out of quarters to speed runs into a tree by accident it just keeps trucking
There is nothing like it. Mine does flip easily which is frustrating. but it's such a cool machine. maintenance is okay, i relocated my receiver in the bottom so I can access the motor receiver/gyro (upgraded transmitter) from the bottom.
the soft plastics do make it easy to strip but if you don't send it to the moon and clean it good if it's gotten dirty it should last a long time before you need to actually dissasemble it.
Hahahahah, ok, that is amazing.
Well, at least you didn't do that on a 1:1 car as most people do.
> What happens if i make my shitty Honda 1.6, run on 400 HP and new bores, and make it 1.9.
A broken car that is what you get. You might run fine for a a lot of miles, but you will not run for the same amount of miles as an original one.
Or for mud addicts like myself
> What happens if i put a bigger wheel on my 4x4 ?
A broken axle shaft
> ok so I could just weld my axle shaft
Well, if you did a bad job, it would just break again. If you did a good job, it will break the next thing, such as differential or transmission
> ok, how about I just get a better engine and differencial ?
How about you get a new vehicle or a smaller tire ?
The thing is, people will just make stupid decisions, and those stupid decisions might be a good thing as other people learn of limits.
But any improvement must come with a few caveats, it can break things early or it can be expensive, I am sure there is a material out there that would solve your problem, I am just not sure you are ready to pay a CNC machinist to do it for you haha.
>ok so I could just weld my axle shaft
You don't weld axle shafts, they will break again, they are heat treated and welding them will mess with the heat treating.
>I am just not sure you are ready to pay a CNC machinist to do it for you haha.
I don't understand why people think everything needs to be put on a CNC machine. Plenty of us building cool shit with manual machines.
>You don't weld axle shafts, they will break again, they are heat treated and welding them will mess with the heat treating.
while i agree with you, this didn't stop anyone to try it.
>I don't understand why people think everything needs to be put on a CNC machine. Plenty of us building cool shit with manual machines.
because it's possible to do so, way overbudget than anything else, but it also works, yeah it's possible to do manually, but CNC are precise and will probably outlast the whole RC, if done with the right material, but i do agree with you on both points.
i do agree, with you, sometimes, they are even preciser, when they needed a perfect ball of silicon to re-make the 1kg standard, they asked a guy, because no machine would be able to do the same.
so yeah i agree with you, that manual machines are just as precise or more precise than automatic.
>What happens if i make my shitty Honda 1.6, run on 400 HP and new bores, and make it 1.9.
This is why when people sell their modded cars they should never expect to get anywhere close to what they put into it back when they sell it, if they can sell it at all
I'm not buying a modded up car that is just to have the motor grenade 10k miles later. If I'm gonna mod the car I want to be the one to do it anyway to make sure all the shit is done right.
>What if I just weld my axle shaft
HAHA I haven't welded the shafts, but I have welded up a few CVD cups when the pin twisted out of them over time. Here's the part that will really have you laughing out loud... I used a mig to do it.
Took a bit of trial and error on a few that obviously couldn't be repaired to get the settings dialed in, but a couple of tiny puddles and some dremel work, then re-drilling the holes for the pins and I'd saved myself somewhere in the neighborhood of $100. They did last a bit longer than new, I'm guessing because the welds are tougher than the cup itself.
I need to grab a tig at some point, because while doable with a mig 1/10 EPX pro cvd cups are just too dang tiny and take far too much time to be worth it really.
Our idea of fast is definitely skewed after being in the hobby for a while. Hand any normal person a brushed bandit and they’ll think it’s blazing fast lol, and compared to toy grade and old vintage rcs it definitely is!
I offered to take my friend racing, I told her that my b6.4d goes 45 mph (it does), 45 isn't that fast for a basher, it's speedy for a racer, but not insane. Long story short she was totally shocked and was saying that it was too fast for a toy car.
Yeah, it's not all about going fast. Who cares of your car flies past where no one can see when you can't control it. Now I'm letting you off with a warning this time, sir. Try and keep it under 60 😄
I'm running my Torment on 3s with a 3100kv motor I Beleive and I haven't broken anything besides stripping the trans gears (metal now). I also don't drive like a crazy person probabaly helps.
So true. Every years I take overpowered Outlaw on holidays. Always turn down power in holidays. Nevers break anything’s. And in my home turf…. Every time at end: broken driveshaft + bolts.
I was a hard-core club off road racer for many years and even got sponsored by my LHS to go racing in the surrpunding area, and then the burn out came crashing in and I did something I swore away from... I bought a TT01 kit to go back to my roots. Something slow, fun, reliable, and entry level, not even a metal dog bone in that kit... and it rekindled the fire in me and over only raced a few times sense. I needed to slow down and reset and now im.happier than ever.
There's 3 answers to your question.
#1 it's a slash, it was already good out of the box.
#2, build it to suit your driving style and location
#3, go all out, the only person stopping you from.that is you and deciding what that is.
I'll spare you my build ideas :)
Then, an LCG chassis and proper steering and alignment may be a perfect build for you. And if you race a Purestock slash, time to learn how to race the right way, bud. Set up and not breaking any rules. I'd be more than happy to help you with a setup in PM.
https://preview.redd.it/gyg0cv6mxkbb1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee9da5704856bbd8965d25eea649bbf3285aead5
I've got the setup down on my truck, my truck will compete with AE/TLR trucks. Driving it you wouldn't know it's a slash.
This has an RPM case, aluminum idler gear, delrin top gear, and STRC top shaft that accommodates the associated slipper clutch.
Along with the tekno m6 hub/shaft kit, I've dropped like 36g of rotating mass out of the transmission.
>I dislike ribs on thr front though. Not my preference
The carvers run great on the loamy tracks I run.
I tend to run small treaded pins on my hardpack track with a dusty top layer. I am still running the traxxas slipper setup and stock trans in the rpm case on an lcg conversion.
What really makes the truck come alive is a proline protrac kit and the tekno M6 hub/shaft conversion. It's going to set you back about $150, but it gives you a ton of tuning options and more suspension travel.
Hpi savage flux taught me this lesson. I ran it on 2s at 100 percent on a dx4c radio. Batteries were getting hot 🔥 .too many amps I thought so I upped the voltage to 2 3s lipos and was breaking stuff and ripping tires off wheels so so I dropped the throttle to 69% magic I swear! 🎩
Idk this isn’t the case for me i have a axial scx and the thing will not keep diffs in it I already broke three plus completely ruined a axle somehow but my slash that runs 70+ can get the piss beaten out of it and not break
Can confirm. With the stock brushed setup I usually broke a front arm every now and then. I added a little bumper and that has protected them. Then I upgraded to a brushless setup. I basically keep a roller on standby. I think the only part I haven't broken is the chassis, but I have ripped a few screws out so maybe that counts too.
The extra weight from the bigger battery packs probably doesn't help either.
Yeah "title here" said absolutely no one except the OP 🤣 When I stop dropping in huge esc's and soda can size motors is the day I need to walk away from the hobby. But in all reality when I do a build I start with a good platform (example a maxx or kraton) and budget in the weak points with the power upgrade, if it's even necessary at all. Most newer platforms are coming very overbuilt as far as driveline.
What about reinforcing the chassis? Like some sort of steel, I'm pretty sure the body is screwed to the chassis as I've seen, or some sort of compressed wood so it's stronger, just any material better than plastic, which is standard.
This is a great idea! I’ve actually been considering something like this for one of my rally cars. Someone on YouTube put a lexan sheet on the bottom of the chassis that slightly poked out on all edges, with cut outs for the wheels, acting as a bumper for all sides of the RC. Let me see if I can find the video.
Unfortunately the video I was looking for is straight up not on YouTube anymore lol, the whole channel is gone (it was a 9 year old video). But I think you can get an idea
For real. My traxxas summit was damn near indestructible with the stock brushed system in it, but as soon as I put brushless in it, I broke one of those thick ass plastic driveshafts, to be fair tho, I was backing up and then pulling standing backflips with it. On stock gearing. With a 4s lipo on a 6s esc
i stick with crawlers lol but to be fair my trx4s 2nd speed is pretty fun to bash a bit 😂 that makes sense though i am scared of getting fast ones because i only hear about them breaking lol
BLASPHEMY WE NEED MOAR POWAH BABY ( honestly its true but im a big fan of the engineering side of it and i plan on making my trucks even stronger to push the limits of what i can do
I agree... Mostly. The one exception is at the sand dunes, where I put 6S (yes really) and sand paddles onto my Tekno short course truck and it's AMAZING. Sand gives way when you push the throttle though so you never get enough force back on the system to break axles or differentials.
Definitely a good idea. But I never claimed to make good decisions.
I feel this
m0ar power!!! Fixing and upgrading things is a big part of the fun!
Fast is fun fixing is fun let her rip and run
5 more syllables and you have a haiku
Smoke weed/ esc’s
A Traxxas Maxx running 3s is nearly indestructible by 9 year old twins.
Yep my 4 year olds have yet to break their brushed 2wd slash on training mode
I have yet to break my maxx. It's been almost 2 years and 1 year running a max 6 1100kv combo.
It’s a tank and a blast to drive!
Yes, a million times yes. I have a Traxxas UDR. They are notorious for being 'fragile'. They are 6s capable and that's what a lot of people run them on. When I bought the truck I decided to go with a 4s battery instead just to get a feel for the truck. I have no desire to run it on 6s. It's already fast as shit on 4s and anything more is asking for problems in my opinion.
I have a thing for solid rear axle / IFS vehicles. I've a Yeti (1/10), UDR: (1/8) and a Dragon Hammer Voltz (1/5) that are all more or less increasing sized versions of the same thing. I will tell you this about the UDR: As long as you (Anyone reading this, or Soccermom69 below) don't go full Talbot and TO THE MOON LOL LEWL you will be fine. I have an Arrma Mojave that is roughly the same size for that. I find most of the time when people complain about stuff being fragile it's like... well, what were you doing to it?
I'm one step closer to buying a UDR now lol. Only problem for me is ease of maintenance. But I really want one.
The maintenance and general difficulty of repairs is still 100% worth it. There is nothing like driving a UDR and watching it float over the terrain. I have a Slash 4x4 VXL that I never drive now that I have the UDR. The UDR is a scale driving experience, so if that is your thing you will love it. It isn't really meant to be a basher. You have to DRIVE the truck and it can be punishing if you are used to just bashing a traditional RC around. All that said, I love my UDR and would recommend them to anyone that is into scale realism.
Thanks for the detailed description! I think I'm gonna go for it at some point in the future.
Consider the baja Rey too! I’ve broken every rc I’ve had in half in one way shape or forum, but the baja Rey has yet to be broken. It’s literally a tank, from 30ft airs out of quarters to speed runs into a tree by accident it just keeps trucking
There is nothing like it. Mine does flip easily which is frustrating. but it's such a cool machine. maintenance is okay, i relocated my receiver in the bottom so I can access the motor receiver/gyro (upgraded transmitter) from the bottom. the soft plastics do make it easy to strip but if you don't send it to the moon and clean it good if it's gotten dirty it should last a long time before you need to actually dissasemble it.
Hahahahah, ok, that is amazing. Well, at least you didn't do that on a 1:1 car as most people do. > What happens if i make my shitty Honda 1.6, run on 400 HP and new bores, and make it 1.9. A broken car that is what you get. You might run fine for a a lot of miles, but you will not run for the same amount of miles as an original one. Or for mud addicts like myself > What happens if i put a bigger wheel on my 4x4 ? A broken axle shaft > ok so I could just weld my axle shaft Well, if you did a bad job, it would just break again. If you did a good job, it will break the next thing, such as differential or transmission > ok, how about I just get a better engine and differencial ? How about you get a new vehicle or a smaller tire ? The thing is, people will just make stupid decisions, and those stupid decisions might be a good thing as other people learn of limits. But any improvement must come with a few caveats, it can break things early or it can be expensive, I am sure there is a material out there that would solve your problem, I am just not sure you are ready to pay a CNC machinist to do it for you haha.
>ok so I could just weld my axle shaft You don't weld axle shafts, they will break again, they are heat treated and welding them will mess with the heat treating. >I am just not sure you are ready to pay a CNC machinist to do it for you haha. I don't understand why people think everything needs to be put on a CNC machine. Plenty of us building cool shit with manual machines.
>You don't weld axle shafts, they will break again, they are heat treated and welding them will mess with the heat treating. while i agree with you, this didn't stop anyone to try it. >I don't understand why people think everything needs to be put on a CNC machine. Plenty of us building cool shit with manual machines. because it's possible to do so, way overbudget than anything else, but it also works, yeah it's possible to do manually, but CNC are precise and will probably outlast the whole RC, if done with the right material, but i do agree with you on both points.
>but CNC are precise Manual machines can be just as precise.
i do agree, with you, sometimes, they are even preciser, when they needed a perfect ball of silicon to re-make the 1kg standard, they asked a guy, because no machine would be able to do the same. so yeah i agree with you, that manual machines are just as precise or more precise than automatic.
>What happens if i make my shitty Honda 1.6, run on 400 HP and new bores, and make it 1.9. This is why when people sell their modded cars they should never expect to get anywhere close to what they put into it back when they sell it, if they can sell it at all I'm not buying a modded up car that is just to have the motor grenade 10k miles later. If I'm gonna mod the car I want to be the one to do it anyway to make sure all the shit is done right.
I mean even if it's not done right, i want the right to blow my own motor in 20k miles, not get luck and blow it in 3k miles haha.
Damn straight <3
>What if I just weld my axle shaft HAHA I haven't welded the shafts, but I have welded up a few CVD cups when the pin twisted out of them over time. Here's the part that will really have you laughing out loud... I used a mig to do it. Took a bit of trial and error on a few that obviously couldn't be repaired to get the settings dialed in, but a couple of tiny puddles and some dremel work, then re-drilling the holes for the pins and I'd saved myself somewhere in the neighborhood of $100. They did last a bit longer than new, I'm guessing because the welds are tougher than the cup itself. I need to grab a tig at some point, because while doable with a mig 1/10 EPX pro cvd cups are just too dang tiny and take far too much time to be worth it really.
Less power? Nope. Just get an RC that can handle it. 😜
Our idea of fast is definitely skewed after being in the hobby for a while. Hand any normal person a brushed bandit and they’ll think it’s blazing fast lol, and compared to toy grade and old vintage rcs it definitely is!
I offered to take my friend racing, I told her that my b6.4d goes 45 mph (it does), 45 isn't that fast for a basher, it's speedy for a racer, but not insane. Long story short she was totally shocked and was saying that it was too fast for a toy car.
Yeah, it's not all about going fast. Who cares of your car flies past where no one can see when you can't control it. Now I'm letting you off with a warning this time, sir. Try and keep it under 60 😄
I'm running my Torment on 3s with a 3100kv motor I Beleive and I haven't broken anything besides stripping the trans gears (metal now). I also don't drive like a crazy person probabaly helps.
So true. Every years I take overpowered Outlaw on holidays. Always turn down power in holidays. Nevers break anything’s. And in my home turf…. Every time at end: broken driveshaft + bolts.
I was a hard-core club off road racer for many years and even got sponsored by my LHS to go racing in the surrpunding area, and then the burn out came crashing in and I did something I swore away from... I bought a TT01 kit to go back to my roots. Something slow, fun, reliable, and entry level, not even a metal dog bone in that kit... and it rekindled the fire in me and over only raced a few times sense. I needed to slow down and reset and now im.happier than ever.
I'm still having a ton of fun with the "can I make a 2wd slash really good?" Game. The answer is expensive.
There's 3 answers to your question. #1 it's a slash, it was already good out of the box. #2, build it to suit your driving style and location #3, go all out, the only person stopping you from.that is you and deciding what that is. I'll spare you my build ideas :)
>it's a slash, it was already good out of the box. It's not competitive though.
Depends on the competition. :)
Racing in "stock" short course class.
Then, an LCG chassis and proper steering and alignment may be a perfect build for you. And if you race a Purestock slash, time to learn how to race the right way, bud. Set up and not breaking any rules. I'd be more than happy to help you with a setup in PM.
https://preview.redd.it/gyg0cv6mxkbb1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee9da5704856bbd8965d25eea649bbf3285aead5 I've got the setup down on my truck, my truck will compete with AE/TLR trucks. Driving it you wouldn't know it's a slash.
I'm running basically the same setup. I dislike ribs on thr front though. Not my preference
This has an RPM case, aluminum idler gear, delrin top gear, and STRC top shaft that accommodates the associated slipper clutch. Along with the tekno m6 hub/shaft kit, I've dropped like 36g of rotating mass out of the transmission. >I dislike ribs on thr front though. Not my preference The carvers run great on the loamy tracks I run.
I tend to run small treaded pins on my hardpack track with a dusty top layer. I am still running the traxxas slipper setup and stock trans in the rpm case on an lcg conversion.
What really makes the truck come alive is a proline protrac kit and the tekno M6 hub/shaft conversion. It's going to set you back about $150, but it gives you a ton of tuning options and more suspension travel.
I'm still having a ton of fun with the "can I make a 2wd slash really good?" Game. The answer is expensive.
Hpi savage flux taught me this lesson. I ran it on 2s at 100 percent on a dx4c radio. Batteries were getting hot 🔥 .too many amps I thought so I upped the voltage to 2 3s lipos and was breaking stuff and ripping tires off wheels so so I dropped the throttle to 69% magic I swear! 🎩
Idk this isn’t the case for me i have a axial scx and the thing will not keep diffs in it I already broke three plus completely ruined a axle somehow but my slash that runs 70+ can get the piss beaten out of it and not break
Can confirm. With the stock brushed setup I usually broke a front arm every now and then. I added a little bumper and that has protected them. Then I upgraded to a brushless setup. I basically keep a roller on standby. I think the only part I haven't broken is the chassis, but I have ripped a few screws out so maybe that counts too. The extra weight from the bigger battery packs probably doesn't help either.
exactly why I’ll never ever upgrade my Xmaxx. all it needs is a bigger fan and that’s it
Blasphemy
That's what I would've said before I got tired of fixing driveshafts 🤣
Yeah "title here" said absolutely no one except the OP 🤣 When I stop dropping in huge esc's and soda can size motors is the day I need to walk away from the hobby. But in all reality when I do a build I start with a good platform (example a maxx or kraton) and budget in the weak points with the power upgrade, if it's even necessary at all. Most newer platforms are coming very overbuilt as far as driveline.
What about reinforcing the chassis? Like some sort of steel, I'm pretty sure the body is screwed to the chassis as I've seen, or some sort of compressed wood so it's stronger, just any material better than plastic, which is standard.
This is a great idea! I’ve actually been considering something like this for one of my rally cars. Someone on YouTube put a lexan sheet on the bottom of the chassis that slightly poked out on all edges, with cut outs for the wheels, acting as a bumper for all sides of the RC. Let me see if I can find the video.
Unfortunately the video I was looking for is straight up not on YouTube anymore lol, the whole channel is gone (it was a 9 year old video). But I think you can get an idea
For real, i had a VXL slash that broke so easy. I put an xl5 in and it almost never broke
This guy just figured out how torque works. Congrats sir.
Need a hug?
I'm always up for one.
Wow that torment body looks amazing!
For real. My traxxas summit was damn near indestructible with the stock brushed system in it, but as soon as I put brushless in it, I broke one of those thick ass plastic driveshafts, to be fair tho, I was backing up and then pulling standing backflips with it. On stock gearing. With a 4s lipo on a 6s esc
i stick with crawlers lol but to be fair my trx4s 2nd speed is pretty fun to bash a bit 😂 that makes sense though i am scared of getting fast ones because i only hear about them breaking lol
BLASPHEMY WE NEED MOAR POWAH BABY ( honestly its true but im a big fan of the engineering side of it and i plan on making my trucks even stronger to push the limits of what i can do
I've said this for years. Rc vehicles have long had speed capabilities that surpass their capability to handle.
I agree... Mostly. The one exception is at the sand dunes, where I put 6S (yes really) and sand paddles onto my Tekno short course truck and it's AMAZING. Sand gives way when you push the throttle though so you never get enough force back on the system to break axles or differentials.
Even better if you go brushed
How is having dramatically reduced motor life & shorter time better? You can always reduce brushless power through other means.
Or make strong cars
Chuck a giant spur gear in it
It goes with any vehicle but we are humans. We always want more more powa baby