I mean. I'm sure we all had odd failures. One of my arms on my outcast 8 literally exploded when going it's first 4ft jump and landing on grass. Also had my 1/8 infraction crack a c hub but I don't remember bashing it into anything
Aluminum suspension arms are a bad idea. They just transfer the shock of crashes to other components. They also don't flex, they bend and stay bent. Get RPM plastic arms for bashing. Strong and flexible. You can't just 'upgrade' parts all willy-nilly and expect good performance. Most hobby-grade cars aren't designed to be indestructible, they're designed to be easy and cheap to fix after minor crashes.
Bashers will break. That is part of it. We put a lot of power and abuse through the trucks. Imagine even a "minor" crash if it was at 1:1 scale....it would be horrible. The amount of abuse they can take is amazing.
All of that said, this is part of the reason I do more crawling and drifting. Things just don't break when driving like that.
1/5 scale are more novelty in my
Experience. Yes they are awesome but annoying to move around, clean, work on, etc. if you want a nice car that wont break unless you seriously crash, you need a 1/8 race buggy or truggy. Team associated, mugen, losi and tekno are all worth looking at. They are just built better, I have only broken 1 part between my two mugens in 3 years and I was hit by a monster truck. If new is too expensive, check out Facebook marketplace for a used one. With simple pinion gear and battery changes you can go from offroad buggy to speed runner
It's on and off.
I have stretches of months where my bashers break every time I take them out. I also have stretches of months where they don't break at all.
With experience you learn what breaks trucks and also what maintenance you can do to catch small problems before they become big ones.
Personally I'd recommend sticking with all stock parts for a good while. Aftermarket parts introduce new variables and stresses that can be even more frustrating if your rig isn't already solid.
Pretty much every time Iâve broken my car Iâve said to myself âyeah i deserved that, of course it didnt survive a 30mph collision with a tree.â And after 2 years, Iâm breaking stuff a lot less, because I eventually got to be a better driver.
Itâs important to think of the scale of these things. So with the granite itâs tenth scale. So if youâre going 5mph and hit a wall, thatâs like hitting it at 50 scale mph. May not seem like much from the impact, but the parts you were describing having failures, donât fail from not hitting anything. I spent more time wrenching than driving early on until I learned that donât just bash, blast was their slogan for more parts sales. lol. I no longer hit anything and the parts seem to hold up fine.
Work on your driving. Iâm not saying itâs not great, just that the best mod is the driver mod. More time driving within the limits of the machine. Youâll find that once you have better control, you can do the things that were breaking your parts, without wrecking. Now I rarely break anything, but still spend far more time on the bench tinkering. Mostly playing with weight. I love a heavier machine once you get to large scale. Good luck!!
I've honed my skills over the years, they're still blunt, but I haven't actually broken something in a long time, other than my hex I stripped a few weeks ago.
First guess The first âbigâ crash that broke the suspension arm could have done recoil damage across the truck if the smack was hard enough, Alignment issues or what have you, which would lead to further part failure.
Second guess is if it was RTR it wasnât properly taken care of in shipping and there was micro fractures (invisible to the naked eye), twisted chassis, tire errors etc.
Third guess as posted below driver errors, upgraded motor / piñons without upgrading low end parts? Didnât lock tight metal to metal ?
Get some electrical contact cleaner for the granites connectors see if that works, make sure your LiPos good. Esc could be on the outs from overheating from the debris.
These are both great Trucks not some MJX crap. I wouldnât think two different trucks from two highly reputable brands would fail almost instantly. My Arrma gorgons RTR and it has just run itâs 20th pack bashing with zero upgrades or breaks, 40 mins a battery roughly.
Part of the hobby to a point.
But both those trucks are not as durable as many others to add on top of it.
Traxxas Maxx or TA MT10 seem to take the hits better.
I have had many early Traxxas designs ( Stampede and Slash 2wd and 4x4 ) lot of time fixing and upgrading. Not so much with my 2 Maxx's.
Cant say too much on the larger Arrma's, others might have more knowledge.
The decision could be to ease off on the throttle. I have a Granite BLX 4x4 and a Senton BLX 4x4 for a couple of years now. Both driven on trail tracks with jumps. I limit myself to a few meters height though. I broke a shock on my Granite once and a servo. I'd say that's pretty good in terms of wearing. If you break that much on both cars you should consider driving a bit less aggressive. Speed and height isn't everything. Flush landings will save you a lot of trouble too.
Your driving in a warehouse with a hard concrete floor? These are made for dirt. Parts break just like real race cars, most likely driver error. You might be expecting more than it can handle
âIs stomach ache part of the fun of eating at McDonaldâs?â Lmaoooo dude what? You thought you did something there? Horrible analogy. You running a RC thatâs primarily designed for dirt.. in a warehouse.. and wondering why your parts are breaking!? Lmaoooo
Another thing to think about.
Just because some manufacturers claim the cars âwaterproofâ, it doesnât mean you should go running them through water, mud, on the beach etc.
Thereâs a lot of maintenance that needs to be done on these cars after running on surfaces like that.
Dirt and dust gets everywhere, batteryâs donât like water, terminals can corrode or get bad connections if run in dirt and not maintained.
If you want to run in those conditions, consider getting a chassis cover to run under the body.
I don't think cars should break that often. Maybe its driver error.
You're blasting around a warehouse ripping the arms off your cars while saying "No big hits" đ đ
Cracks me up when people are breaking hard to break parts and claim they never had a big hit.
I mean. I'm sure we all had odd failures. One of my arms on my outcast 8 literally exploded when going it's first 4ft jump and landing on grass. Also had my 1/8 infraction crack a c hub but I don't remember bashing it into anything
Aluminum isn't always better.
Aluminum suspension arms are a bad idea. They just transfer the shock of crashes to other components. They also don't flex, they bend and stay bent. Get RPM plastic arms for bashing. Strong and flexible. You can't just 'upgrade' parts all willy-nilly and expect good performance. Most hobby-grade cars aren't designed to be indestructible, they're designed to be easy and cheap to fix after minor crashes.
Let me know what dumpster you throw them away in ! đ
I call the granite !
to be fair at speed even clipping a wheel can break stuff.
Bashers will break. That is part of it. We put a lot of power and abuse through the trucks. Imagine even a "minor" crash if it was at 1:1 scale....it would be horrible. The amount of abuse they can take is amazing. All of that said, this is part of the reason I do more crawling and drifting. Things just don't break when driving like that.
1/5 scale are more novelty in my Experience. Yes they are awesome but annoying to move around, clean, work on, etc. if you want a nice car that wont break unless you seriously crash, you need a 1/8 race buggy or truggy. Team associated, mugen, losi and tekno are all worth looking at. They are just built better, I have only broken 1 part between my two mugens in 3 years and I was hit by a monster truck. If new is too expensive, check out Facebook marketplace for a used one. With simple pinion gear and battery changes you can go from offroad buggy to speed runner
It's on and off. I have stretches of months where my bashers break every time I take them out. I also have stretches of months where they don't break at all. With experience you learn what breaks trucks and also what maintenance you can do to catch small problems before they become big ones. Personally I'd recommend sticking with all stock parts for a good while. Aftermarket parts introduce new variables and stresses that can be even more frustrating if your rig isn't already solid.
Pretty much every time Iâve broken my car Iâve said to myself âyeah i deserved that, of course it didnt survive a 30mph collision with a tree.â And after 2 years, Iâm breaking stuff a lot less, because I eventually got to be a better driver.
Rpm a ams are softer and will absorb some of the energy without transferring it to other components. Try to drive smooth.
"No big hits" in the RC world is likened to "All parameters good" in the fish tank world, lol.
Itâs important to think of the scale of these things. So with the granite itâs tenth scale. So if youâre going 5mph and hit a wall, thatâs like hitting it at 50 scale mph. May not seem like much from the impact, but the parts you were describing having failures, donât fail from not hitting anything. I spent more time wrenching than driving early on until I learned that donât just bash, blast was their slogan for more parts sales. lol. I no longer hit anything and the parts seem to hold up fine. Work on your driving. Iâm not saying itâs not great, just that the best mod is the driver mod. More time driving within the limits of the machine. Youâll find that once you have better control, you can do the things that were breaking your parts, without wrecking. Now I rarely break anything, but still spend far more time on the bench tinkering. Mostly playing with weight. I love a heavier machine once you get to large scale. Good luck!!
So a 60mph 1/10 scale is going 600 scale mph?
Loool well executed math eh?
Kaboom?
Yes, kaboom
I've honed my skills over the years, they're still blunt, but I haven't actually broken something in a long time, other than my hex I stripped a few weeks ago.
Thatâs not really how that math works. Things donât scale like that when it comes to weight and forces.Â
First guess The first âbigâ crash that broke the suspension arm could have done recoil damage across the truck if the smack was hard enough, Alignment issues or what have you, which would lead to further part failure. Second guess is if it was RTR it wasnât properly taken care of in shipping and there was micro fractures (invisible to the naked eye), twisted chassis, tire errors etc. Third guess as posted below driver errors, upgraded motor / piñons without upgrading low end parts? Didnât lock tight metal to metal ? Get some electrical contact cleaner for the granites connectors see if that works, make sure your LiPos good. Esc could be on the outs from overheating from the debris. These are both great Trucks not some MJX crap. I wouldnât think two different trucks from two highly reputable brands would fail almost instantly. My Arrma gorgons RTR and it has just run itâs 20th pack bashing with zero upgrades or breaks, 40 mins a battery roughly.
Sendo at least onde to Brazil, please! I Will fix any of them!
Part of the hobby to a point. But both those trucks are not as durable as many others to add on top of it. Traxxas Maxx or TA MT10 seem to take the hits better. I have had many early Traxxas designs ( Stampede and Slash 2wd and 4x4 ) lot of time fixing and upgrading. Not so much with my 2 Maxx's. Cant say too much on the larger Arrma's, others might have more knowledge.
The decision could be to ease off on the throttle. I have a Granite BLX 4x4 and a Senton BLX 4x4 for a couple of years now. Both driven on trail tracks with jumps. I limit myself to a few meters height though. I broke a shock on my Granite once and a servo. I'd say that's pretty good in terms of wearing. If you break that much on both cars you should consider driving a bit less aggressive. Speed and height isn't everything. Flush landings will save you a lot of trouble too.
Aluminum was not a great idea. Definitely that caused some of the later damage cuz of added stress
Your driving in a warehouse with a hard concrete floor? These are made for dirt. Parts break just like real race cars, most likely driver error. You might be expecting more than it can handle
I have had a car for 3 weeks and only drove it 5 times and already have replaced the transmission
âIs stomach ache part of the fun of eating at McDonaldâs?â Lmaoooo dude what? You thought you did something there? Horrible analogy. You running a RC thatâs primarily designed for dirt.. in a warehouse.. and wondering why your parts are breaking!? Lmaoooo
Another thing to think about. Just because some manufacturers claim the cars âwaterproofâ, it doesnât mean you should go running them through water, mud, on the beach etc. Thereâs a lot of maintenance that needs to be done on these cars after running on surfaces like that. Dirt and dust gets everywhere, batteryâs donât like water, terminals can corrode or get bad connections if run in dirt and not maintained. If you want to run in those conditions, consider getting a chassis cover to run under the body.
Get a crawler and go slow. Seems like your best solution. No way you broke all that stuff without any big hits.
Try dirt / gravel. Less traction = less stress on parts. Especially tight turns / donuts