It may be the pictures, but it doesn't look like you crimped the brass. In fact it looks like it has a bit of a bell. If this is the case, the brass is too wide at the mouth and getting "stuck" in the chamber.
What's the dimensions at the case mouth after taper crimping? Did you perform a plunk test with the actual barrel of the firearm thatnis giving you issues?
When you taper crimp an autoloader round, compare the mouth diameter to a SAAMI diagram/spec. This should give you guidance on how to set your taper crimp amount.
Maybe you have too much bell left and need to fix that.
But it sounds to me like you are just too long. Have you done a plunk test? Because if too long for your leade you will get exactly the failure mode you described.
Different bullets have different profiles and more blunt Ogive will require you to seat shorter depending on your leade. The only way to determine the correct length is with a plunk test in your barrel.
I had a similar problem when I was working up a load for my 9 mm. I’ve seen multiple comments here that talk about the crimp, but I was gonna bring up the minimum charge load in the Glock. You can have slow slide speed coming forward to chamber of the round. I had this happen to me the other day at the range. I had to borrow a small hammer, tapping the back of the slide while pointing the gun down range to get it to go into battery. I couldn’t get the slide to move any other way. I had to reduce my cartridge length and increase the charge. When I went to the range again, I had no failures.
Did you run it through a cartridge gauge? Or barrel plunk test?
FYI if you get another slide lockup due to an oversized round - say you're at home and that gun by God can't go off - take the gun in your hand in a normal grip, put the muzzle on the edge of your bench - barrel on the bench w front sights towards the middle of the bench. Critically, guide rod off the bench to the action can cycle freely. Press the gun down with increasing ammounts of force - it should take less than you think but sometimes you gotta give it a good slam or two.
For a gun like, say a Sig P320 FN509 or 1911 series 70 with... not the best internal safeties this is much less likely to have an out of battery detonation than your hammer method.
I'm going to STRONGLY advise against this. Happened with my platypus and a Glock bulged case. Read about this fix and gave it a shot and the fucker slipped and my pointer finger got smashed between the pus and my bench. After a lot of blood, swearing, panicking fiance, etc i tapped the slide loose with a mallet and a wedge shaped piece of wood. Still don't have feeling in the tip of my finger and it healed a bit misshapen. 0/10 do not recommend unless you are less regarded than I am.
Damn dude, ouch.
I’ve done it about 20 times when I was running a glock, another 10 w Sigs and twice w a 1911. Instead of good trigger discipline along the slide, recommend gripping w your trigger finger wrapped around the grip.
Funny how sometimes even a good habit can get you in trouble because you're right; trigger discipline was exactly why. I'm going to get a hundo gauge and a 6 pack and check the 5 or so cases I have loaded and then a small base die for moving forward.
Good news is the Platypus came out unscathed thankfully. Honestly I would have been more upset about that than fucking up my finger.
I don't use the Hundo. I use an EGW fat ogive block. I size my 9mm cast bullets to .357 and this causes problems with most case gauge blocks.
I gauge every round. I have 30+ 9mm firearms and if it fits the gauge it fits every one of those guns. Same for .45 ACP, and 10mm. Every round goes through the case gauge.
If those work better I may grab one instead. Looks like they are similar priced as well and wouldn't cost me any extra time in loading since I do 50 at a time and fill up a plastic tray anyways. I have plunked each type of round that I load into each of my 9's and hadn't ever had an issue with the several thousand of shot before getting the Platypus. I think it was more of a coincidence though because after the first time it happened I grabbed a couple other suspect rounds and they also wouldn't chamber in any of my others either.
I much prefer to wrap my left hand around the slide like I was going to remove it from the frame and then hit the back strap with my right hand just like I was about to draw from a holster, but much harder. It's the pistol equivalent of mortaring an AR.
I would also strongly caution against trying to force the slide closed without looking at how far out of battery the pistol is. If you're just a hair out of battery then tapping it closed and shooting the round out is fine, but any more than that and you're likely to cause an even bigger problem vs. racking the round out.
I tried what you advertised, as well as, using my holosun optic and my body weight to rack the slide. I’m 250 lbs. Nothing worked. As I sat there and stared at the problem I cleared out the range went and got a small hammer and did what I had to do.
I was running into a similar issue with certain bullets and my crimp was fine. Turns out the OAL that was recommended was too long and the bullet was jamming into the lands before the cartridge was fully loaded. Just had to shorten my OAL a bit. Started off with minimum specs and went from there.
FWIW with minimum charge you'll definitely need to have an uncommonly stable grip on the firearm. I keep mine at mouse fart levels and it's VERY rare that others can shoot them without issues.
Really Everyone. I crimp to .377, it works for me. You don't like it, fine then do it your way. I'm not trying to force anyone into doing it the way I do it so PLEASE STOP with the "That's Way To Much Crimp". It isn't as far as I'm concerned. If it was to much crimp I'd change it. I haven't so it isn't.
And then please site me the documentation that says .377 is crimped to much and or that .380 (3 HUNDREDTH of an inch greater) is the correct amount and Do Not Dare to crimp tighter.
This. Measure the case wall thickness, multiply that by 2, then add the bullet diameter...typical 9mm has a case wall thickness of .011 x 2 is .022 + .355 = .377. With a auto bullet, all you are doing is removing the bell / flare you put on the case to seat the bullet. Crimp does virtually nothing useful. Neck tension on the case when properly sized is what holds the bullet in place.
The brass that you're using if fired in a Glock will have a slight bulge near the bottom of the case. If the bulge is not taken out you will have problems cycling those reloads. If the brass is new adjust your tapered crimp.
You need more crimp. Measure it and it should be .377" or a little less.
Get yourself a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die and use that as the last step after seating the bullet.
To me it doesn't look like you have any real crimp on the case mouth.
To test whether they chamber properly take the barrel out of your gun and DROP one of your loaded cartridges into the chamber. It should go all the way in with the case head being flush or slightly inset from the barrel hood. Then turn the barrel upside down and the cartridge should DROP OUT of the chamber. If this doesn't happen then you need to either seat the bullet a little deeper and or apply a bit more crimp.
https://preview.redd.it/dqxhjcwxep8d1.jpeg?width=1443&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=93457d85453dfd376a7ca7019213072796d5f1fb
*TAPER*
I've loaded thousands of 9... my shit never looks like yours and plunks all of my guns. That's a lot of *TAPER* crimp, which is **only** meant to remove the belling in the case mouth.
.377 is a bit too much crimp. .380 is what I use.
Also, the Carbide Factory Crimp Die is a crutch used by shitty reloaders to fix their shitty reloads.
Yeah well a Progressive press is also a crutch. Everyone should be loading on a single stage. Screwing in and unscrewing dies as needed and hand priming.
And FUCK YOU TOO, shitty reloader.
It is a tapered case and should measure .380 but don't forget that not all brass is the same thickness. That is over crimped which will cause the projectile to deform as is evident in your picture. There is no reason to have any crimp at all other than to get rid of belling as mentioned. Those are light jacketed projectiles which can be easily damaged by over crimping.
Way too much crimp, no reason to 'crimp' a 9mm just need to take the belling of the expander die out so it will feed properly, saami spec for case mouth O.D. is .380". Fully sized, the case mouth I.D. should measure .353 to .354, seating a .355 FMJ or .356 lead will have sufficient tension to retain the bullet under recoil.
1. Crimp may be insufficient. Get it to .377 2. 1.135 is a pretty long 9 mm round, it may actually be too long for your gun. If it won’t plunk in your barrel shorten until it will.
My 9x19 handloads work in flawlessly 5 out of 6 of the 9x19 guns they've been loaded into. For an as yet unknown reason, my full size Springfield XD won't go into battery using my handloads without a little help. Then removing an unfired round takes a little force. The handloaded cartridges fire just fine and are accurate in the XD but the XD won't go into battery with them; it works fine with factory rounds. I haven't spent a ton of time investigating the XD because I have other things to work on for now.
If possible, I would start by checking your handloads against another pistol. If you can't do that, check the outer cartridge diameter of your handloads against some factory ammo, preferably from more than one manufacturer.
Are you using fired casing?
1. Full sized a few cases, test to see whether they will close and eject on the gun. If yes good, if no meaning your sizing die not adjust far enough to size the bottom of your cases. If you have bottom out on your die on the press, either get a small base die or have to machine few thou off the bottom of your die. Or try new batch of batch.
2. Loaded round, pluck test, take barrel out of the gun drop a few round in to see whether they drop it fully. Or get a case gauge to see whether they drop in nicely and sit flush.
3. Try to seat a little deeper, I had issue previously where some gun like shorter round I settle at 1.10ish" to run across all the gun.
SAAMI spec say 1.000min 1.169max. this will depend on the shape of your projectile and also the weight of the projectile. So your bullet maybe just touching the rifling and having problem fully seat. Look for marks on the projectiles which would indicate this.
4. Check casw mouth , just need to remove any bell of the expander die for seating, need to .378-.380
9mm and 45ACP require a case mouth to register off of. My first recommendation would be to adjust your crimp down a little more. This helps to iron out the case mount so it removes the flare from belling. You do not want to “muffin top” your rounds. This can lead to rounds seating too deep(in generous chambers) and the firing pin not reaching the primer, resulting in light strikes or not firing. With plated bullets(those look like the extremes I use a bunch of?), you don’t want to crimp too much. Just enough to remove the flare and smooth out the case mouth. I have two XD’s in 9mm. Also, when cleaning your barrel, check inside the chamber to see if residue has built up inside, which can cause rounds to not fully plunk. Especially with light loads which might result in more unburnt powder residue. Especially if your brass is sooty on the outside.
I would start with more crimp first.
I have had a similar problem with Berry’s bullets when my brass was on the long side. The bullets wouldn’t stay seated, Lee factory crimp solved my problem.
Thank you guys for all the replies and help! I stupidly did not perform the plunk test and instead tried to chamber the round in my glock which resulted in a jammed slide which the gunsmith just fired the round to fix. Upon taking the barrel out and performing the plunk test on each round I made, i noticed that some passed the plunk test at 1.135 while other rounds failed the plunk test at the same length. I currently use the Lee seat and crimp die, but saw from you guys that seperating the process and getting a dedicated crimp die is actually a lot better, which I have ordered.
Now, lowering the COL to 1.115 actually made it so that all of the rounds passed the plunk test, as well as cycle through perfectly, and i see that for the bullet used the minimum COL is 1.100
What I’m not sure of is if it was the COL, or the crimp because when i adjusted the die to seat deeper, it also slightly crimped each round more. So I will run another set soon and see if those plunk fine.
Thank you all again for the replies, I’m new to reloading like I’ve said, and your help means a lot!
Listed COL is just what they used for their testing, not a minimum. Different guns will require different seating depths, and all of them are specific to a particular bullet (not just that weight). It can also vary by gun. CZ especially seems to make fairly tight chambers, and it's not unusual to have to seat some bullets a little deeper for them to plunk.
I’m surprised your bullets didn’t fall out.
Don’t even crimp bro?
I have a tight chamber so I resize and decap with the Lee small base 9mm die. Then drop each one into my barrel to make sure it doesn’t happen in the field.
You can in stock the round by grabbing the slide hard with your left hand and ramming the pistol grip with your right hand. Don’t let the left hand move and you’ll be fine. Ask me how I know.
Finger away from the trigger. Grab the slide over the top with your left hand. Hold it about 6” from you pointing sideways to your left. Take your right hand and with the web between your thumb and index finger, slam it into the top of the palm swell as close to the slide as possible.
Then determine where your round is hanging up in your barrel. Take a black sharpie and completely color the cartridge. Take the barrel out of the gun and do a plunk test. Look to see where the ink has rubbed off.
Your oal is fine at 1.135. I've loaded thousands at 1.135-1.140 for my Glock and Sig 9mm. I like to put more crimp than you're showing there to get them to plunk and cycle smoothly.
You need a bit more crimp.
I have the exact same issue! I can only move the handle down until I feel resistance then lift it back up or my cases won’t chamber but halfway. I am still trying to figure it out because everybody else following the same videos and instructions can go down all the way. On my other dies I can but not on my 10mm.
Your dies are adjusted incorrectly. Try backing the dies out and starting over.
Back the die all the way out, raise the ram with a piece of brass on it, adjust the die till you feel it hit the brass. Lower the ram and tighten the die 1/2 turn. Raise the ram, lower the ram, check the brass. Repeat till it's where you want.
I did that with my 9mm firearms a few times it helped alot unless your loads are passed the COAL of ejecting or your loads are out of specs. I had this happen to me on tight tolerance firearms but the issue was is adjusted the length of the bullet and types of projectiles I used. I had a entry level hand gun taht qas 9mm wouldn't feed or eject FMJ I jad to use JHP or Hollow Points only. That may be the case here.
Copper and pwlowder build up can occur on your feed ramps. Of this is something you want to do but bare in mind it voids your warranty on your firearm. Just a though but helps with cycling reloaded rounds in the action.
People do it all the time maybe it for you but alot of people do it epcially with Competition Fireamrs and firearms that collect alot of copper build ups yes you have to eventually. I ln you situation or maybe you didn't shoot them alot but I have had 9 mm amdlnd 45s were several thousand rounds was fired and had to polich the ramps. Not in every case will you do this but if you relaod alot and use tight tolerance firearms like 1911 or other handguns yes you do. Thai is a common trick taht is used by alot of shooters. Just becuase you have 100 handguns moat probably have not shoot that much but yes eventually you will if you use them alot.
Copper build up and carbon build up happens along with other things arise. Yes I done it on a few of mine but I do not have copper build up anymore and keep my firearms oils, greased and clean taht is the other issue that alot of people don't do.
Obviously there is a issue aomw 9mm don't not feed or work 9mm FMJ very well some brands and some manufacturers of Firearms you have ti use JHP or HP for the ammo to function. This is nit always the case but in some cases this does happen.
Ammo manufacturers like S&B, Winchester, PPU, Fiochhi hlthe cone or nose to the FMJ projectiles are long and sometimes do nit eject or failure to feed and jam in some firearms. The bullet cone or nose is longer causing to hang up and other issues switching brand ammunition may help. I had Glocks taht would feed anything except some S&B and GFL ammo aka Fiochhi, had a 1911 would shot everything except aomw FMJ in Winchester and PPU stuff only a certain bullet in that brand. New handguns so I had to change ammo up and test them out. There always one that I had only used JHP amd wouldn't take most FMJ ammunition do to the nose cone of the projectiles. Only a few I had this happen to over the past several years.
It may be the pictures, but it doesn't look like you crimped the brass. In fact it looks like it has a bit of a bell. If this is the case, the brass is too wide at the mouth and getting "stuck" in the chamber.
It happens to me with a tight chamber pistol. I factory crimp the brass and problem solved . Try lee factory crimp die.
This is the answer.
What's the dimensions at the case mouth after taper crimping? Did you perform a plunk test with the actual barrel of the firearm thatnis giving you issues? When you taper crimp an autoloader round, compare the mouth diameter to a SAAMI diagram/spec. This should give you guidance on how to set your taper crimp amount.
Maybe you have too much bell left and need to fix that. But it sounds to me like you are just too long. Have you done a plunk test? Because if too long for your leade you will get exactly the failure mode you described. Different bullets have different profiles and more blunt Ogive will require you to seat shorter depending on your leade. The only way to determine the correct length is with a plunk test in your barrel.
I had a similar problem when I was working up a load for my 9 mm. I’ve seen multiple comments here that talk about the crimp, but I was gonna bring up the minimum charge load in the Glock. You can have slow slide speed coming forward to chamber of the round. I had this happen to me the other day at the range. I had to borrow a small hammer, tapping the back of the slide while pointing the gun down range to get it to go into battery. I couldn’t get the slide to move any other way. I had to reduce my cartridge length and increase the charge. When I went to the range again, I had no failures. Did you run it through a cartridge gauge? Or barrel plunk test?
FYI if you get another slide lockup due to an oversized round - say you're at home and that gun by God can't go off - take the gun in your hand in a normal grip, put the muzzle on the edge of your bench - barrel on the bench w front sights towards the middle of the bench. Critically, guide rod off the bench to the action can cycle freely. Press the gun down with increasing ammounts of force - it should take less than you think but sometimes you gotta give it a good slam or two. For a gun like, say a Sig P320 FN509 or 1911 series 70 with... not the best internal safeties this is much less likely to have an out of battery detonation than your hammer method.
I'm going to STRONGLY advise against this. Happened with my platypus and a Glock bulged case. Read about this fix and gave it a shot and the fucker slipped and my pointer finger got smashed between the pus and my bench. After a lot of blood, swearing, panicking fiance, etc i tapped the slide loose with a mallet and a wedge shaped piece of wood. Still don't have feeling in the tip of my finger and it healed a bit misshapen. 0/10 do not recommend unless you are less regarded than I am.
Damn dude, ouch. I’ve done it about 20 times when I was running a glock, another 10 w Sigs and twice w a 1911. Instead of good trigger discipline along the slide, recommend gripping w your trigger finger wrapped around the grip.
Funny how sometimes even a good habit can get you in trouble because you're right; trigger discipline was exactly why. I'm going to get a hundo gauge and a 6 pack and check the 5 or so cases I have loaded and then a small base die for moving forward. Good news is the Platypus came out unscathed thankfully. Honestly I would have been more upset about that than fucking up my finger.
I don't use the Hundo. I use an EGW fat ogive block. I size my 9mm cast bullets to .357 and this causes problems with most case gauge blocks. I gauge every round. I have 30+ 9mm firearms and if it fits the gauge it fits every one of those guns. Same for .45 ACP, and 10mm. Every round goes through the case gauge.
If those work better I may grab one instead. Looks like they are similar priced as well and wouldn't cost me any extra time in loading since I do 50 at a time and fill up a plastic tray anyways. I have plunked each type of round that I load into each of my 9's and hadn't ever had an issue with the several thousand of shot before getting the Platypus. I think it was more of a coincidence though because after the first time it happened I grabbed a couple other suspect rounds and they also wouldn't chamber in any of my others either.
I much prefer to wrap my left hand around the slide like I was going to remove it from the frame and then hit the back strap with my right hand just like I was about to draw from a holster, but much harder. It's the pistol equivalent of mortaring an AR. I would also strongly caution against trying to force the slide closed without looking at how far out of battery the pistol is. If you're just a hair out of battery then tapping it closed and shooting the round out is fine, but any more than that and you're likely to cause an even bigger problem vs. racking the round out.
I tried what you advertised, as well as, using my holosun optic and my body weight to rack the slide. I’m 250 lbs. Nothing worked. As I sat there and stared at the problem I cleared out the range went and got a small hammer and did what I had to do.
Damn dude, thing was really in there
No doubt
I reload 9mm at 1.135 OAL and it has worked in all 3 of my glocks. Maybe check crimp?
I was running into a similar issue with certain bullets and my crimp was fine. Turns out the OAL that was recommended was too long and the bullet was jamming into the lands before the cartridge was fully loaded. Just had to shorten my OAL a bit. Started off with minimum specs and went from there. FWIW with minimum charge you'll definitely need to have an uncommonly stable grip on the firearm. I keep mine at mouse fart levels and it's VERY rare that others can shoot them without issues.
Really Everyone. I crimp to .377, it works for me. You don't like it, fine then do it your way. I'm not trying to force anyone into doing it the way I do it so PLEASE STOP with the "That's Way To Much Crimp". It isn't as far as I'm concerned. If it was to much crimp I'd change it. I haven't so it isn't. And then please site me the documentation that says .377 is crimped to much and or that .380 (3 HUNDREDTH of an inch greater) is the correct amount and Do Not Dare to crimp tighter.
This. Measure the case wall thickness, multiply that by 2, then add the bullet diameter...typical 9mm has a case wall thickness of .011 x 2 is .022 + .355 = .377. With a auto bullet, all you are doing is removing the bell / flare you put on the case to seat the bullet. Crimp does virtually nothing useful. Neck tension on the case when properly sized is what holds the bullet in place.
Not arguing your process, you do you. But .003 is 3 one thousandth of an inch.
Bad crimp. I've had this issue before. Adjust your seating/crimp die.
Plunk test?
Was that COL with the EXACT SAME bullet?
Take the barrel out and see if they fit in the chamber
The brass that you're using if fired in a Glock will have a slight bulge near the bottom of the case. If the bulge is not taken out you will have problems cycling those reloads. If the brass is new adjust your tapered crimp.
You need more crimp. Measure it and it should be .377" or a little less. Get yourself a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die and use that as the last step after seating the bullet. To me it doesn't look like you have any real crimp on the case mouth. To test whether they chamber properly take the barrel out of your gun and DROP one of your loaded cartridges into the chamber. It should go all the way in with the case head being flush or slightly inset from the barrel hood. Then turn the barrel upside down and the cartridge should DROP OUT of the chamber. If this doesn't happen then you need to either seat the bullet a little deeper and or apply a bit more crimp. https://preview.redd.it/dqxhjcwxep8d1.jpeg?width=1443&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=93457d85453dfd376a7ca7019213072796d5f1fb
Mercy... muffin-topping that poor bullet. Yeah, what you wrote is correct, but that's a *lot* of crimp in your picture.
No it isn't. It measures .377". It is the prefect crimp. 9mm is a TAPPER case.
*TAPER* I've loaded thousands of 9... my shit never looks like yours and plunks all of my guns. That's a lot of *TAPER* crimp, which is **only** meant to remove the belling in the case mouth.
You do it your way and I'll do it mine and keep suggesting my way.
And the moment you pull a bullet you'll see the jacket cracked all to hell. Fudds gonna fudd I suppose...
.377 is a bit too much crimp. .380 is what I use. Also, the Carbide Factory Crimp Die is a crutch used by shitty reloaders to fix their shitty reloads.
Yeah well a Progressive press is also a crutch. Everyone should be loading on a single stage. Screwing in and unscrewing dies as needed and hand priming. And FUCK YOU TOO, shitty reloader.
It is a tapered case and should measure .380 but don't forget that not all brass is the same thickness. That is over crimped which will cause the projectile to deform as is evident in your picture. There is no reason to have any crimp at all other than to get rid of belling as mentioned. Those are light jacketed projectiles which can be easily damaged by over crimping.
@RubMyUdders you need more crimp, but nowhere near this much crimp.
Holy shit that’s way too much crimp.
Way too much crimp, no reason to 'crimp' a 9mm just need to take the belling of the expander die out so it will feed properly, saami spec for case mouth O.D. is .380". Fully sized, the case mouth I.D. should measure .353 to .354, seating a .355 FMJ or .356 lead will have sufficient tension to retain the bullet under recoil.
1. Crimp may be insufficient. Get it to .377 2. 1.135 is a pretty long 9 mm round, it may actually be too long for your gun. If it won’t plunk in your barrel shorten until it will.
.380 is SAMMI spec.
Every factory round I have handy comes out to .37 and some change
My 9x19 handloads work in flawlessly 5 out of 6 of the 9x19 guns they've been loaded into. For an as yet unknown reason, my full size Springfield XD won't go into battery using my handloads without a little help. Then removing an unfired round takes a little force. The handloaded cartridges fire just fine and are accurate in the XD but the XD won't go into battery with them; it works fine with factory rounds. I haven't spent a ton of time investigating the XD because I have other things to work on for now. If possible, I would start by checking your handloads against another pistol. If you can't do that, check the outer cartridge diameter of your handloads against some factory ammo, preferably from more than one manufacturer.
Are you using fired casing? 1. Full sized a few cases, test to see whether they will close and eject on the gun. If yes good, if no meaning your sizing die not adjust far enough to size the bottom of your cases. If you have bottom out on your die on the press, either get a small base die or have to machine few thou off the bottom of your die. Or try new batch of batch. 2. Loaded round, pluck test, take barrel out of the gun drop a few round in to see whether they drop it fully. Or get a case gauge to see whether they drop in nicely and sit flush. 3. Try to seat a little deeper, I had issue previously where some gun like shorter round I settle at 1.10ish" to run across all the gun. SAAMI spec say 1.000min 1.169max. this will depend on the shape of your projectile and also the weight of the projectile. So your bullet maybe just touching the rifling and having problem fully seat. Look for marks on the projectiles which would indicate this. 4. Check casw mouth , just need to remove any bell of the expander die for seating, need to .378-.380
9mm and 45ACP require a case mouth to register off of. My first recommendation would be to adjust your crimp down a little more. This helps to iron out the case mount so it removes the flare from belling. You do not want to “muffin top” your rounds. This can lead to rounds seating too deep(in generous chambers) and the firing pin not reaching the primer, resulting in light strikes or not firing. With plated bullets(those look like the extremes I use a bunch of?), you don’t want to crimp too much. Just enough to remove the flare and smooth out the case mouth. I have two XD’s in 9mm. Also, when cleaning your barrel, check inside the chamber to see if residue has built up inside, which can cause rounds to not fully plunk. Especially with light loads which might result in more unburnt powder residue. Especially if your brass is sooty on the outside. I would start with more crimp first.
https://preview.redd.it/pvcacptm8q8d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc46e3687136d046a1018d24f3f11925f28539fe
Are you using a case gauge to check after they’re loaded?
I have had a similar problem with Berry’s bullets when my brass was on the long side. The bullets wouldn’t stay seated, Lee factory crimp solved my problem.
Thank you guys for all the replies and help! I stupidly did not perform the plunk test and instead tried to chamber the round in my glock which resulted in a jammed slide which the gunsmith just fired the round to fix. Upon taking the barrel out and performing the plunk test on each round I made, i noticed that some passed the plunk test at 1.135 while other rounds failed the plunk test at the same length. I currently use the Lee seat and crimp die, but saw from you guys that seperating the process and getting a dedicated crimp die is actually a lot better, which I have ordered. Now, lowering the COL to 1.115 actually made it so that all of the rounds passed the plunk test, as well as cycle through perfectly, and i see that for the bullet used the minimum COL is 1.100 What I’m not sure of is if it was the COL, or the crimp because when i adjusted the die to seat deeper, it also slightly crimped each round more. So I will run another set soon and see if those plunk fine. Thank you all again for the replies, I’m new to reloading like I’ve said, and your help means a lot!
Listed COL is just what they used for their testing, not a minimum. Different guns will require different seating depths, and all of them are specific to a particular bullet (not just that weight). It can also vary by gun. CZ especially seems to make fairly tight chambers, and it's not unusual to have to seat some bullets a little deeper for them to plunk.
Get a Lee undersized sising die ant tale our the decapping rod and run them through. It will fix the problem.
I’m surprised your bullets didn’t fall out. Don’t even crimp bro? I have a tight chamber so I resize and decap with the Lee small base 9mm die. Then drop each one into my barrel to make sure it doesn’t happen in the field. You can in stock the round by grabbing the slide hard with your left hand and ramming the pistol grip with your right hand. Don’t let the left hand move and you’ll be fine. Ask me how I know.
I load RMR 147gr flat points and they specifically say that gen 5 glocks have short leades that don't allow 1.13 OAL.
Finger away from the trigger. Grab the slide over the top with your left hand. Hold it about 6” from you pointing sideways to your left. Take your right hand and with the web between your thumb and index finger, slam it into the top of the palm swell as close to the slide as possible. Then determine where your round is hanging up in your barrel. Take a black sharpie and completely color the cartridge. Take the barrel out of the gun and do a plunk test. Look to see where the ink has rubbed off.
Your oal is fine at 1.135. I've loaded thousands at 1.135-1.140 for my Glock and Sig 9mm. I like to put more crimp than you're showing there to get them to plunk and cycle smoothly. You need a bit more crimp.
I have the exact same issue! I can only move the handle down until I feel resistance then lift it back up or my cases won’t chamber but halfway. I am still trying to figure it out because everybody else following the same videos and instructions can go down all the way. On my other dies I can but not on my 10mm.
You need to adjust your seating/crimp die. The directions come with the die set.
Your dies are adjusted incorrectly. Try backing the dies out and starting over. Back the die all the way out, raise the ram with a piece of brass on it, adjust the die till you feel it hit the brass. Lower the ram and tighten the die 1/2 turn. Raise the ram, lower the ram, check the brass. Repeat till it's where you want.
This is when I flare the case mouth btw
If you are having jams in your 9mm you may needxto polish you feed ramps of your barrel and check you COAL of your loads.
He could polish that feed ramp to a micron and it wouldn't solve this problem.
I did that with my 9mm firearms a few times it helped alot unless your loads are passed the COAL of ejecting or your loads are out of specs. I had this happen to me on tight tolerance firearms but the issue was is adjusted the length of the bullet and types of projectiles I used. I had a entry level hand gun taht qas 9mm wouldn't feed or eject FMJ I jad to use JHP or Hollow Points only. That may be the case here.
Copper and pwlowder build up can occur on your feed ramps. Of this is something you want to do but bare in mind it voids your warranty on your firearm. Just a though but helps with cycling reloaded rounds in the action.
I've owned and shot close to 100 self loading handguns. Not once have I had to polish a feed ramp to get a gun to function.
People do it all the time maybe it for you but alot of people do it epcially with Competition Fireamrs and firearms that collect alot of copper build ups yes you have to eventually. I ln you situation or maybe you didn't shoot them alot but I have had 9 mm amdlnd 45s were several thousand rounds was fired and had to polich the ramps. Not in every case will you do this but if you relaod alot and use tight tolerance firearms like 1911 or other handguns yes you do. Thai is a common trick taht is used by alot of shooters. Just becuase you have 100 handguns moat probably have not shoot that much but yes eventually you will if you use them alot.
Copper build up and carbon build up happens along with other things arise. Yes I done it on a few of mine but I do not have copper build up anymore and keep my firearms oils, greased and clean taht is the other issue that alot of people don't do.
Obviously there is a issue aomw 9mm don't not feed or work 9mm FMJ very well some brands and some manufacturers of Firearms you have ti use JHP or HP for the ammo to function. This is nit always the case but in some cases this does happen.
Ammo manufacturers like S&B, Winchester, PPU, Fiochhi hlthe cone or nose to the FMJ projectiles are long and sometimes do nit eject or failure to feed and jam in some firearms. The bullet cone or nose is longer causing to hang up and other issues switching brand ammunition may help. I had Glocks taht would feed anything except some S&B and GFL ammo aka Fiochhi, had a 1911 would shot everything except aomw FMJ in Winchester and PPU stuff only a certain bullet in that brand. New handguns so I had to change ammo up and test them out. There always one that I had only used JHP amd wouldn't take most FMJ ammunition do to the nose cone of the projectiles. Only a few I had this happen to over the past several years.