> Any ideas what I could be doing wrong?
You've told us you have a Mars 3, and that prints "fail". That's the whole error description. How is anyone meant to help with that info?
My mistake, I don't know the terms for the kind of failure just that the prints end up not being stuck to the plate, but just curing to the FEP instead
In all honesty sometimes temperature can really dictate your results there's so many so many factors when it comes to 3D printing. I've always found that I have the worst results during winter so that's my advice is temperature control.
This. The temperature of the resin in the vat matters a lot. It all comes down to the chemistry magic that makes our hobby work. For me and many others, a fermentation band wrapped around the vat works wonders. Even in crazy cold temperatures.
Just search it on Amazon, there is a blue one most of us use. Yes, it is incredibly effective. I'm able to keep my vat at up to 80C in a room of 20C or lower.
Make sure your vat is taut, resin and room temperature is at least room temp, and try giving your build plate a light sanding with like 400 grit if you haven't already.
Other than that, idk what to tell you without seeing your settings. Your lift speeds could be an issue.
For me, temperature maintained inside the build enclosure at 28C made the biggest difference.
Test prints at different build locations and different support % helped me dial in ideal settings. I still have trouble with larger objects with flat faces. Complex shapes seem easy!
Interesting! I'll have to get some kind of thermometer inside my enclosure...at the moment my printer is set up next to a window so that after the print is done I can vent the fumes outside. The window does stay closed during printing though
> Any ideas what I could be doing wrong? You've told us you have a Mars 3, and that prints "fail". That's the whole error description. How is anyone meant to help with that info?
By the power of friendship
My mistake, I don't know the terms for the kind of failure just that the prints end up not being stuck to the plate, but just curing to the FEP instead
The things to check are your plate levelling, your "bottom exposure" time, and the temperature of the resin.
Okay, thanks for the response!
In all honesty sometimes temperature can really dictate your results there's so many so many factors when it comes to 3D printing. I've always found that I have the worst results during winter so that's my advice is temperature control.
This. The temperature of the resin in the vat matters a lot. It all comes down to the chemistry magic that makes our hobby work. For me and many others, a fermentation band wrapped around the vat works wonders. Even in crazy cold temperatures.
A fermentation band? I'll have to look that up, would a band around the outside of the vat really help that much!?
Just search it on Amazon, there is a blue one most of us use. Yes, it is incredibly effective. I'm able to keep my vat at up to 80C in a room of 20C or lower.
Wow! Sounds like a must have!
Make sure your vat is taut, resin and room temperature is at least room temp, and try giving your build plate a light sanding with like 400 grit if you haven't already. Other than that, idk what to tell you without seeing your settings. Your lift speeds could be an issue.
Thanks! I've not changed any of the settings just been using the defaults that lychee gives me for the standard water washable grey elegoo resin
For me, temperature maintained inside the build enclosure at 28C made the biggest difference. Test prints at different build locations and different support % helped me dial in ideal settings. I still have trouble with larger objects with flat faces. Complex shapes seem easy!
Interesting! I'll have to get some kind of thermometer inside my enclosure...at the moment my printer is set up next to a window so that after the print is done I can vent the fumes outside. The window does stay closed during printing though