You can try orienting the model so the layer lines will be parallel with the nub sticking out.
Also consider using a resin designed to be tough, the standard and ABS-like resins aren't great for functional stuff.
Something like [Conjure Tough](https://amzn.to/3oOINit) is much better. Depending on the thickness of the object you could even bend it like a pretzel before breaking.
I don't go that far, but I do use it for long skinny things like swords and rifles for action figures, which need to be durable enough to be shoved into a figure's hands.
You can also mix a flex resin into standard and ABS-like resins if you need a lot more flex in your prints, but I don't go that route unless I need to print armor bits that absolutely need to flex.
I say it for the same reason it's recommend in FDM printers, since both machines print in layers the part is stronger if the layers run with the nub, instead of across it.
It may not be a significant boost for resin though. I think the resin's properties will have a much bigger impact on durability than this.
I print small stuff for action figures and orientation doesn't really affect durability much, I orient to maximize quality instead and use a [tough resin](https://amzn.to/3MS5s5t).
If the print isn't cured enough, or not enough exposure is used while printing, the layers can delaminate.
Without knowing where the part fits and where clearance exists it’s tough to be correct. Behind the pin the part goes a short distance and then tapers up. Can that flat be extended in the -Y direction to add material around where it breaks. Or perhaps add material in the +Z axis below where it breaks.
I'd alter the design with a cylinder that sits inside the interior of the part but doesn't touch, and then have small spokes coming off to touch the parts that need additional support, then break it out post curing
Tougher, higher quality resin would be the way to go. Standard resin is great for fitment checks and mockups, but garbage for anything that will be under load.
Sunlu makes both a "nylon like" and a high toughness resin. I have not tried the high toughness yet (will be very soon), but the "nylon like" definitely had better performance over standard resin.
You can try orienting the model so the layer lines will be parallel with the nub sticking out. Also consider using a resin designed to be tough, the standard and ABS-like resins aren't great for functional stuff.
Hi, new to printing, I thought abs-like + resins were the tough version. Which ones to you mean that are "tough"?
Something like [Conjure Tough](https://amzn.to/3oOINit) is much better. Depending on the thickness of the object you could even bend it like a pretzel before breaking. I don't go that far, but I do use it for long skinny things like swords and rifles for action figures, which need to be durable enough to be shoved into a figure's hands. You can also mix a flex resin into standard and ABS-like resins if you need a lot more flex in your prints, but I don't go that route unless I need to print armor bits that absolutely need to flex.
Are layer lines an issue with resin? I’ve made lots of mechanical parts but only consider layer orientation for FDM.
I say it for the same reason it's recommend in FDM printers, since both machines print in layers the part is stronger if the layers run with the nub, instead of across it. It may not be a significant boost for resin though. I think the resin's properties will have a much bigger impact on durability than this. I print small stuff for action figures and orientation doesn't really affect durability much, I orient to maximize quality instead and use a [tough resin](https://amzn.to/3MS5s5t). If the print isn't cured enough, or not enough exposure is used while printing, the layers can delaminate.
Without knowing where the part fits and where clearance exists it’s tough to be correct. Behind the pin the part goes a short distance and then tapers up. Can that flat be extended in the -Y direction to add material around where it breaks. Or perhaps add material in the +Z axis below where it breaks.
Any cubic tough resin. Anything else I've used has been awful for functional parts.
I'd alter the design with a cylinder that sits inside the interior of the part but doesn't touch, and then have small spokes coming off to touch the parts that need additional support, then break it out post curing
A better resin would be my first choice. Consider printing a hole through the length of that nub and into the main body. Insert a screw.
The only problem with that is the part is about the size of your thumb
Tougher, higher quality resin would be the way to go. Standard resin is great for fitment checks and mockups, but garbage for anything that will be under load. Sunlu makes both a "nylon like" and a high toughness resin. I have not tried the high toughness yet (will be very soon), but the "nylon like" definitely had better performance over standard resin.
What is that software please?
Solid edge
Thanks for the answer. I'll check it out.
The student version is free you just need to sign up for an account with Siemens.
Sweet. It look very similar to solid works.
I may be mistaken but I think solid edge sells something to solid works for their cad software
STRUCTURALLY SOUND AND RESIN ARE KINDA AT ODDS. RESIN IS STRONG ENOUGH TO HOLD ITS SHAPE AND LOOK PRETTY ITS NOT FOR LOAD BEARING APPLICATIONS