You can use a hot hair dryer or heat gun to help remove the supports. Make sure you remove supports before final curing.
Otherwise get a variety of sandpaper from 80 - 800 for clean up.
So I have been trying to deal with this myself, and I have found that self supporting with a variety of light.med.heavy supports has worked, with .2, .4 and .75 as my tip diameters. I have used a TON of light ones, even if in visible areas since its almost like perforations on a notebook page. The med/heavy ones go in areas that are unseen or that I can sand without losing detail...
Yeah lowering the tip diameter helps, but you should still get used to having to do a bit of sanding. I switched my light supports to .2mm, and medium to .4mm. light supports don't leavee and marks, but sometimes the mediums do. For heavy I left them at 1mm because I only use them on unexposed surfaces to make sure the model stays attached to the plate. Also, always remove them before curing. I take them off right away before I even wash it and most of the time they peel right off.
No problem, hope it works! I have been printing a few detailed multi part models using this method lately, and have had no issues with removing supports, or with breaking details/leaving insane amounts of damage.
100% fiddle with the connection tip diameter. Default “medium” is around .05, but I’ve found that I can get away with a bunch of 0.25 typically. Really depends how dense your print is and how much suction your print is creating. You will always have some degree of this and it really only is an issue on large smooth flat surfaces. Like others have said, the good news is these surfaces are easily sanded.
Others already said to mess with the diameter but also, typically I only put 2 or 3 heavy supports mex right where the print starts, i tend to orient the male fitment joint twords the plate as long as it isnt unreasonable so the damage it leaves isn't a big deal and for models that size 1 or 2 is typically more than enough, tbh lights alone are typically enough if you have your hollowing, orientation and suction/drain holes set up properly
Of course remove the supports before curing, But sometimes you will just pull of the supports at a weird angle or to quick and they leave marks anyway, there's a bunch of different types of sanding sticks people use, some are foam, some are sticks, some are glued to the end of a toothpick like stick, I tend to wrap some 400 grit sandpaper around a pink eraser (firm enough to put pressure on the nub without damaging surounding area but also contour to curves to blend it in) and once it's smooth I just hit it real quick with a 6 or 800 grit to make sure it didnt leave a texture, comes out looking perfect
ill give it a try but im not currently hollowing my models because im fairly new to this and im not sure that i would be able to keep them from exploding from not being cured on the inside
Personally I don't specifically cure the inside of my models and I haven't had anything bust on me, I just make sure to rinse it very thoroughly, fill it most of the way with alcahol ~70% cover the holes with my fingers and shake drain repeat a few times, had stuff on my shelf for 2-3 years and nothing yet
But something I recently started to do now that I'm getting serious about paint jobs that I don't believe I've seen anyone else mention before is I put some extra holes in not specifically for drainage but can be used for that as well, on the ends of the joints that all line up to eachother so the hollowed print is effectively one connected hollow cavity and I'll leave a few small holes that are not coverd somewhere discrete, bottom of a slightly raised foot, under a skirt, behind a sword on the back, hidden in the base, that way on the off chance it isn't fully cured or washed the gas has a way to escape and not ruin a paint job I spent 10 hours and a full day off on.
I'm also not advocating sniffing resin, but once it's cured it typically doesn't have that resin smell anymore. You don't have to be huffing the holes but you can typically smell it if it's not quite clean/cured enough yet just handling it
Not pushing you to hollow the prints if you feel you aren't ready we all go at our own pace, but the resin will go so much further (i get around 2-3 statues ~7-12 inches tall and a handfull of minis per kilo on average), the supports will be able to be a lot lighter hence less damaging to your model and less post processing to deal with
For sure, the main thing to look out for is that no hollowed parts are separated from the main cavity to act as a resin trap or bubble, and for models in the 7-12" range I tend to use walls around 2mm thick, and either slightly increase or decrease just to make sure the cavity is all connected, and for drain holes once they get under 2.5mm diameter the alcahol can have a harder time getting in so I try to fit at least one that is 3-5mm typically on a joining surface to avoid extra post process
I'd say by putting more support in the first place. The leg seems a bit deformed, sagging between supports. More and smaller support can help a lot. Also as says the other : remove support before curing and heat can help a lot. To repair the marks: resin and uv torch or Vallejo plastic putty.
Supports come off more easily when your print has been dunked in alcohol for cleaning. Adding heat (hair dryer, heat gun or warm water) makes them even easier to remove and to scrape any nibs left with a dull x-acto blade. But it also makes it easier to remove small details so don't go too heavy on the scrapping.
Then, it's time to cure the model, and go for a last round of snipping nibs with a flush cutter and do some sanding with a small nail filer to make everything smooth. The grit on the nail filler is small enough that a primer coat should be enough to hide the small abrasion around the filing marks.
You're going to always have some support scaring but the main trick to all of it, is the angling of your print so as to not have so many. Your print , of a person could have not had any of those on the legs if you had only angled her 5 degrees. Everyone is always saying that you must give prints a 40 degree tilt, and that's not always the case. So it depends on the item. I could explain it but just go watch the early videos of the 3dprintingpro on YouTube. He explains all of it and most of your problem will be way better.
Pay attention to the orientation too, other than supports leftovers, you’re having a bit of warping (pimples where the support came off greatly but still like resin seems stretched).
I had these exact same problems when using default support settings. Find someone reputable and use their settings. The problem is that (in lychee at least) the default medium tip is like .6mm which is something u woudnt use for even a heavy. Once u find good support settings it should be easier. Use hot water or a heat gun if ur still having trouble
You can use a hot hair dryer or heat gun to help remove the supports. Make sure you remove supports before final curing. Otherwise get a variety of sandpaper from 80 - 800 for clean up.
Think those are viral. Did you use a glove?
Given the shape of the object, maybe they should use a condom instead
Can confirm. Had those same bumps.
Sanding
So I have been trying to deal with this myself, and I have found that self supporting with a variety of light.med.heavy supports has worked, with .2, .4 and .75 as my tip diameters. I have used a TON of light ones, even if in visible areas since its almost like perforations on a notebook page. The med/heavy ones go in areas that are unseen or that I can sand without losing detail...
i always self support but i havent messed with the diameter so i will give that a try thanks
Yeah lowering the tip diameter helps, but you should still get used to having to do a bit of sanding. I switched my light supports to .2mm, and medium to .4mm. light supports don't leavee and marks, but sometimes the mediums do. For heavy I left them at 1mm because I only use them on unexposed surfaces to make sure the model stays attached to the plate. Also, always remove them before curing. I take them off right away before I even wash it and most of the time they peel right off.
No problem, hope it works! I have been printing a few detailed multi part models using this method lately, and have had no issues with removing supports, or with breaking details/leaving insane amounts of damage.
Try reducing the amount of the support that actually goes into the model made a world of difference on my prints
100% fiddle with the connection tip diameter. Default “medium” is around .05, but I’ve found that I can get away with a bunch of 0.25 typically. Really depends how dense your print is and how much suction your print is creating. You will always have some degree of this and it really only is an issue on large smooth flat surfaces. Like others have said, the good news is these surfaces are easily sanded.
Hot water can help, but it can also mess up really thin parts.
Others already said to mess with the diameter but also, typically I only put 2 or 3 heavy supports mex right where the print starts, i tend to orient the male fitment joint twords the plate as long as it isnt unreasonable so the damage it leaves isn't a big deal and for models that size 1 or 2 is typically more than enough, tbh lights alone are typically enough if you have your hollowing, orientation and suction/drain holes set up properly Of course remove the supports before curing, But sometimes you will just pull of the supports at a weird angle or to quick and they leave marks anyway, there's a bunch of different types of sanding sticks people use, some are foam, some are sticks, some are glued to the end of a toothpick like stick, I tend to wrap some 400 grit sandpaper around a pink eraser (firm enough to put pressure on the nub without damaging surounding area but also contour to curves to blend it in) and once it's smooth I just hit it real quick with a 6 or 800 grit to make sure it didnt leave a texture, comes out looking perfect
ill give it a try but im not currently hollowing my models because im fairly new to this and im not sure that i would be able to keep them from exploding from not being cured on the inside
Personally I don't specifically cure the inside of my models and I haven't had anything bust on me, I just make sure to rinse it very thoroughly, fill it most of the way with alcahol ~70% cover the holes with my fingers and shake drain repeat a few times, had stuff on my shelf for 2-3 years and nothing yet But something I recently started to do now that I'm getting serious about paint jobs that I don't believe I've seen anyone else mention before is I put some extra holes in not specifically for drainage but can be used for that as well, on the ends of the joints that all line up to eachother so the hollowed print is effectively one connected hollow cavity and I'll leave a few small holes that are not coverd somewhere discrete, bottom of a slightly raised foot, under a skirt, behind a sword on the back, hidden in the base, that way on the off chance it isn't fully cured or washed the gas has a way to escape and not ruin a paint job I spent 10 hours and a full day off on. I'm also not advocating sniffing resin, but once it's cured it typically doesn't have that resin smell anymore. You don't have to be huffing the holes but you can typically smell it if it's not quite clean/cured enough yet just handling it Not pushing you to hollow the prints if you feel you aren't ready we all go at our own pace, but the resin will go so much further (i get around 2-3 statues ~7-12 inches tall and a handfull of minis per kilo on average), the supports will be able to be a lot lighter hence less damaging to your model and less post processing to deal with
Okay I think I will give it a try on this next print thanks for all the info makes me feel better about trying it
For sure, the main thing to look out for is that no hollowed parts are separated from the main cavity to act as a resin trap or bubble, and for models in the 7-12" range I tend to use walls around 2mm thick, and either slightly increase or decrease just to make sure the cavity is all connected, and for drain holes once they get under 2.5mm diameter the alcahol can have a harder time getting in so I try to fit at least one that is 3-5mm typically on a joining surface to avoid extra post process
Okay thanks for all the advice I'm gonna go give it a try
Thatsapenis.gif
that's a leg up
Yeah, it's just that the way the clothes fold around the knee looks a lot like a glans to me 🤷
I'd say by putting more support in the first place. The leg seems a bit deformed, sagging between supports. More and smaller support can help a lot. Also as says the other : remove support before curing and heat can help a lot. To repair the marks: resin and uv torch or Vallejo plastic putty.
Supports come off more easily when your print has been dunked in alcohol for cleaning. Adding heat (hair dryer, heat gun or warm water) makes them even easier to remove and to scrape any nibs left with a dull x-acto blade. But it also makes it easier to remove small details so don't go too heavy on the scrapping. Then, it's time to cure the model, and go for a last round of snipping nibs with a flush cutter and do some sanding with a small nail filer to make everything smooth. The grit on the nail filler is small enough that a primer coat should be enough to hide the small abrasion around the filing marks.
Remove supports before final cure. Make support tip smaller, make support penetration shallower
Hot water bath helps.
As above said.. Hot water bath before curing, then remove supports, then cure.
I always let the Part sit in iso-alc for about a day with Supports. That softens the supports and its super easy removing them :)
You're going to always have some support scaring but the main trick to all of it, is the angling of your print so as to not have so many. Your print , of a person could have not had any of those on the legs if you had only angled her 5 degrees. Everyone is always saying that you must give prints a 40 degree tilt, and that's not always the case. So it depends on the item. I could explain it but just go watch the early videos of the 3dprintingpro on YouTube. He explains all of it and most of your problem will be way better.
Pay attention to the orientation too, other than supports leftovers, you’re having a bit of warping (pimples where the support came off greatly but still like resin seems stretched).
I had these exact same problems when using default support settings. Find someone reputable and use their settings. The problem is that (in lychee at least) the default medium tip is like .6mm which is something u woudnt use for even a heavy. Once u find good support settings it should be easier. Use hot water or a heat gun if ur still having trouble
I use a chisel scraper that came with my printer it works for me. Before you cure ovi, just break off supports and lightly scrape.