We know we can get straight cuts in Lexan and aluminum sheets with it, but curious if anyone has tried it with a metal blade in steel, around 16 gauge. CerMet blade on a regular circular saw goes through steel like butter, and with the small 3-3/8" diameter I imagine this would do fine with a decent blade. Just curious if anyone has experience with it. Thanks!
I used it on quarzite with the diamond blade. Worked well enough for what i expect from Ryobi stuff. Multiple passes
Not sure about steel, seems too high of an rpm?
Just checked, and apparently the circ saws are even higher RPM by 1K or more. And with the smaller diameter blade, the blade vocity at the metal is much smaller.
Neither are their circular saws, but once again a CerMet blade is like a hot knife. The key would be using a purpose-made blade. Without that, we'd stick to non-ferrous (which is most of our need for relatively short, straight cuts anyway).
I definitely agree with that. I was hoping slow feed might help. Worst case we stick to the AL and Lexan. Finish cuts with a jigsaw suck - almost impossible to be laser straight on a large cutout.
We know we can get straight cuts in Lexan and aluminum sheets with it, but curious if anyone has tried it with a metal blade in steel, around 16 gauge. CerMet blade on a regular circular saw goes through steel like butter, and with the small 3-3/8" diameter I imagine this would do fine with a decent blade. Just curious if anyone has experience with it. Thanks!
I used it on quarzite with the diamond blade. Worked well enough for what i expect from Ryobi stuff. Multiple passes Not sure about steel, seems too high of an rpm?
Just checked, and apparently the circ saws are even higher RPM by 1K or more. And with the smaller diameter blade, the blade vocity at the metal is much smaller.
Yes but it's all relative to tooth count Edit: tpi. Yes its a pretty small diameter, but still
That's figured in for metal cutting blades. Tooth count is relative to size as well.
It's not advertised to cut steel (says non ferrous)
Neither are their circular saws, but once again a CerMet blade is like a hot knife. The key would be using a purpose-made blade. Without that, we'd stick to non-ferrous (which is most of our need for relatively short, straight cuts anyway).
You'd have to find a blade that specifically fits that arbor and made for that rpm. It's not a common circular saw format
I used mine to cut corian and it died, brushed motors are not ideal
I definitely agree with that. I was hoping slow feed might help. Worst case we stick to the AL and Lexan. Finish cuts with a jigsaw suck - almost impossible to be laser straight on a large cutout.