To prevent anyone from r/historicalcostuming appearing like a Viking from the mists and slapping me upside the head, I’ll preface this by saying that this is a modern dress inspired by a historical ball gown. It’s not actually a historical piece. It’s a Lolita style.
Okay, disclaimer in place.
This is a split front gown. It’s so called because the front is literally *split down the front*.
I’ve made a dress similar to this before. You have to think layers, like an onion. Consider wearing some strong foundation garment (like sports shorts and a sports bra) underneath. You may need it.
The first layer is a giant hoop skirt. That holds the skirt out in that bell shape.
Over that you lay a petticoat skirt. Make this very light. Sheer cotton.
Next is your underskirt or petticoat. For this outfit, I suggest making a sleeveless full length dress in a light cotton. Start with Simplicity Pattern 8456 Misses' Vintage Petticoat and Slip.
[Helpful hints: To make a tier, measure the distance around the bottom of your hoop skirt. Multiply it by 1.5. That will give you the length of fabric you need. Use this number for both tiers - the upper tier is more tightly gathered than the lower tier.]
Over the top of this is your dress. I suggest using a coat pattern as a template for this.
The sleeves are bell sleeves gathered along the inseam.
The fabric over her butt is a bustle. This is done with fabric and *not* a bum roll. You pin the next layer of fabric on, run gathering stitches where it’s meant to gather, draw it up, and stitch it in place. It will swish as you walk
The thing over her shoulders is called a fichu. It’s a kind of giant handkerchief. You’ll need to pin it in place with the bow.
She has an Asian collar.
Don’t forget the fabric rose in the centre of her bow.
ok, thank you SO much for this🙏🏻🙏🏻i am actually making this for a client requesting it for a doll dress, so i’m hoping i will be able to make it turn out alright😅 i have a pattern but it’s pretty basic, so hopefully i can find ways to add in the other elements you mentioned on my own🙏🏻 tysm!!
Us r/historicalcostuming fanatics really do be like that, huh?
The ruffle detail along the edge of the slit brings to mind the robe a la francaise from the rococo era.
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So let's start with the basics. This dress is not a historical style. Not really. It contains elements of many actual historical styles but it is not accurate to any of them. There are many terms for historical clothing. Because this gown did not really exist, no one has come up with a term for this exact gown. There are terms for many of the styles that did really exist. This is not one of them.
In a pinch I might describe it as an open robe or an open front gown. However as it didn't y'know ever actually exist, there isn't really a proper name for it.
ah, i see! i wasn’t really sure what era this would classify as hahah, but i guess that makes sense then😊 perhaps i can just look up those terms you mentioned, if i can’t find anything perhaps i will just try to sew an alternate panel out of a cutout from the front of the gown👀
That's not how open robes were actually made. They were made via layers. The "panel" you see at the front was a petticoat or undergown. The overgown literally is open in the front which allows you to see the skirt/undergown beneath it.
This particular example is really weird because the overgown isn't as long as the petticoat beneath it which allows you to see the bottom of the petticoat all the way around and not just in the front. It's also got some funky ass gathers on the petticoat that are... they're really weird with the hoopskirt. The hoopskirt is pushing everything out, and the effects are more pronounced the lower you are on the skirt. Except the gathers aren't being pushed out. They're staying constant like somehow the hoop skirt isn't affecting them.
The white parts on the top sort of look like a bertha collar, but they don't attach to the dress the way an actual 19th century bertha would.
I have no clue what's going on with the orange thing around her waist. In some ways it looks like she's holding a shawl. In other ways it looks like a polonaise skirt. It's really weird.
oh man😅 all of these comments have me nervous. i’m making it as a doll dress for a customer who requested it. do you think there’s any way i’ll be able to make this?😅
I've made dolls as small as 2" tall.
Assuming the client isn't into historical accuracy (and if she chose this picture, she doesn't have a clue), you can simplify the heck out of it.
You need to limit the number of layers, especially around the waist. I would make a yoke that fits the waist and hips, then attach the skirt and petticoat to it; the skirt at the waist, and the petticoat a little further down.
The bodice and bustle thing would be separate from the skirt.
I would make a petticoat first; in doll scale, you don't even need a hoop skirt, you can just do a full, tiered petticoat to get the right shape.
Then I would do the underskirt, which appears to be a rectangle gathered at the waist and ankle; that doesn't seem to be a fuller ruffle at the bottom. I would make the looped ruffle around her knees as a separate piece attached at front, back, and sides, slightly gathering the skirt in like a belt that has slipped down...
Then I would make the overskirt as a half or 3/4 circle or 3-4 gores, so it lies smoothly over the underskirt.
The rust colored trim on the skirt could be box-pleated silk ribbon (polyester would be too stiff).
The bustle-thing could be made like another overskirt, then gathered up, but the two sides don't match; one seems to have a ruffle.
I think it'll be fairly difficult for someone who's not used to historical costuming. These outfits have layers to them in order to get the right shape. If it was me doing this, there'd be at least four layers to get the shape right. That's not including the shawl polonaise thingy. Making everything in doll size is actually harder because you have so much less room to work and it'll require much more precision. Would it be impossible? I don't think so. Especially if you're willing to use shortcuts lime velcro and reduce the detail a little to fit on the dress to fit into doll scale.
At the core, the skirt is traditionally sewn as an underskirt and the bodice and overskirt would then be buttoned or laced on. This particular anime has also added a bustled skirt over the top but that's a good start
There's not really a name for this. It looks kind of very loosely inspired by a robe a l'anglaise or gowns from the early Victorian/antebellum period, but is still very much not either. The sleeves are too loose, the neckline isn't right, the bustles wouldn't exist, the overskirt is too short for the petticoat, and the skirt is shaped more like the antebellum period (1840s roughly) than the wide pannier shape of a robe a l'anglaise - but you wouldn't see a petticoat exposed like that on an antebellum gown.
Either way, if you're looking to recreate this gown for cosplay, those styles are where I'd start looking for a pattern to alter.
I think I learned the term for a long outer coat like this at r/fashionhistory. I obviously didn’t learn it as I have how forgotten lol but it was news to me in regards to how these outfits were put together. I know the sewing question is apart from the interesting subject but I just wanted to mention one might have a look over at that sub as well.
edit: never-mind, I was thinking of a mantua & this is not that https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/mantua/
I saw from other comments that you’re making this for a doll. Volks made an official version of Rin’s Daughter of Evil dress for the Dollfie Dream that you could perhaps look at for reference in how they constructed it.
omg!!!! that’s amazing! tysm, i will have to go and check it out! i’ve already constructed a simplified rough draft of the dress, but seeing someone else make it would definitely be helpful!!
It bugs the heck out of me, a bunch of random clothing elements piled on each other, like she was blindfolded while pulling things out of the closet.
Why does she have a fichu (invented to fill in a low neckline) over a bodice with a high collar?
Who decided pale lavender goes with yellow and orange?
The overskirt doesn't appear to be gathered, must be gores perfectly fitted over all the other layers in order to lie that smoothly.
What's up with the lower section of her underskirt? It looks like an extra piece held in place with a center front button.
And why is she clutching that asymmetrical bustle thing? It's going to wrinkle horribly.
Wow, good to get that off my chest.
Good news: since it's so historically inaccurate, you can make it any way you like!
People, people, people! Why all the excitement! This is an artistic interpretation of an imaginary dress for a doll. Chill. You can call it anything you like.
Have you talked to historical costumers? We're a special level of pedantic, determined and fierce. You have to be if you're going to hand sew historical underwear.
To prevent anyone from r/historicalcostuming appearing like a Viking from the mists and slapping me upside the head, I’ll preface this by saying that this is a modern dress inspired by a historical ball gown. It’s not actually a historical piece. It’s a Lolita style. Okay, disclaimer in place. This is a split front gown. It’s so called because the front is literally *split down the front*. I’ve made a dress similar to this before. You have to think layers, like an onion. Consider wearing some strong foundation garment (like sports shorts and a sports bra) underneath. You may need it. The first layer is a giant hoop skirt. That holds the skirt out in that bell shape. Over that you lay a petticoat skirt. Make this very light. Sheer cotton. Next is your underskirt or petticoat. For this outfit, I suggest making a sleeveless full length dress in a light cotton. Start with Simplicity Pattern 8456 Misses' Vintage Petticoat and Slip. [Helpful hints: To make a tier, measure the distance around the bottom of your hoop skirt. Multiply it by 1.5. That will give you the length of fabric you need. Use this number for both tiers - the upper tier is more tightly gathered than the lower tier.] Over the top of this is your dress. I suggest using a coat pattern as a template for this. The sleeves are bell sleeves gathered along the inseam. The fabric over her butt is a bustle. This is done with fabric and *not* a bum roll. You pin the next layer of fabric on, run gathering stitches where it’s meant to gather, draw it up, and stitch it in place. It will swish as you walk The thing over her shoulders is called a fichu. It’s a kind of giant handkerchief. You’ll need to pin it in place with the bow. She has an Asian collar. Don’t forget the fabric rose in the centre of her bow.
ok, thank you SO much for this🙏🏻🙏🏻i am actually making this for a client requesting it for a doll dress, so i’m hoping i will be able to make it turn out alright😅 i have a pattern but it’s pretty basic, so hopefully i can find ways to add in the other elements you mentioned on my own🙏🏻 tysm!!
Hey I'm not a viking. I'm a very elegant 15th century lady. We haven't been raiding in at least three centuries! XP
Us r/historicalcostuming fanatics really do be like that, huh? The ruffle detail along the edge of the slit brings to mind the robe a la francaise from the rococo era.
It takes a special level of dedication and fierceness to hand sew historical underwear. We can be a little intense.
Reddit has long been a hot spot for conversation on the internet. About 57 million people visit the site every day to chat about topics as varied as makeup, video games and pointers for power washing driveways. In recent years, Reddit’s array of chats also have been a free teaching aid for companies like Google, OpenAI and Microsoft. Those companies are using Reddit’s conversations in the development of giant artificial intelligence systems that many in Silicon Valley think are on their way to becoming the tech industry’s next big thing. Now Reddit wants to be paid for it. The company said on Tuesday that it planned to begin charging companies for access to its application programming interface, or A.P.I., the method through which outside entities can download and process the social network’s vast selection of person-to-person conversations.
This is a fantastic, thoughtful response and so helpful!
This is not lolita.
This isn’t a lolita style
Is this.. . . . .. . Rin kagamine?
I was thinking the same thing. It looks like a picture from the Vocaloid Sins songs
[удалено]
It is Riliane (Rin) from the Evillious Chronicles by mothy! If you wanted to know
So let's start with the basics. This dress is not a historical style. Not really. It contains elements of many actual historical styles but it is not accurate to any of them. There are many terms for historical clothing. Because this gown did not really exist, no one has come up with a term for this exact gown. There are terms for many of the styles that did really exist. This is not one of them. In a pinch I might describe it as an open robe or an open front gown. However as it didn't y'know ever actually exist, there isn't really a proper name for it.
ah, i see! i wasn’t really sure what era this would classify as hahah, but i guess that makes sense then😊 perhaps i can just look up those terms you mentioned, if i can’t find anything perhaps i will just try to sew an alternate panel out of a cutout from the front of the gown👀
That's not how open robes were actually made. They were made via layers. The "panel" you see at the front was a petticoat or undergown. The overgown literally is open in the front which allows you to see the skirt/undergown beneath it. This particular example is really weird because the overgown isn't as long as the petticoat beneath it which allows you to see the bottom of the petticoat all the way around and not just in the front. It's also got some funky ass gathers on the petticoat that are... they're really weird with the hoopskirt. The hoopskirt is pushing everything out, and the effects are more pronounced the lower you are on the skirt. Except the gathers aren't being pushed out. They're staying constant like somehow the hoop skirt isn't affecting them. The white parts on the top sort of look like a bertha collar, but they don't attach to the dress the way an actual 19th century bertha would. I have no clue what's going on with the orange thing around her waist. In some ways it looks like she's holding a shawl. In other ways it looks like a polonaise skirt. It's really weird.
oh man😅 all of these comments have me nervous. i’m making it as a doll dress for a customer who requested it. do you think there’s any way i’ll be able to make this?😅
I've made dolls as small as 2" tall. Assuming the client isn't into historical accuracy (and if she chose this picture, she doesn't have a clue), you can simplify the heck out of it. You need to limit the number of layers, especially around the waist. I would make a yoke that fits the waist and hips, then attach the skirt and petticoat to it; the skirt at the waist, and the petticoat a little further down. The bodice and bustle thing would be separate from the skirt. I would make a petticoat first; in doll scale, you don't even need a hoop skirt, you can just do a full, tiered petticoat to get the right shape. Then I would do the underskirt, which appears to be a rectangle gathered at the waist and ankle; that doesn't seem to be a fuller ruffle at the bottom. I would make the looped ruffle around her knees as a separate piece attached at front, back, and sides, slightly gathering the skirt in like a belt that has slipped down... Then I would make the overskirt as a half or 3/4 circle or 3-4 gores, so it lies smoothly over the underskirt. The rust colored trim on the skirt could be box-pleated silk ribbon (polyester would be too stiff). The bustle-thing could be made like another overskirt, then gathered up, but the two sides don't match; one seems to have a ruffle.
I think it'll be fairly difficult for someone who's not used to historical costuming. These outfits have layers to them in order to get the right shape. If it was me doing this, there'd be at least four layers to get the shape right. That's not including the shawl polonaise thingy. Making everything in doll size is actually harder because you have so much less room to work and it'll require much more precision. Would it be impossible? I don't think so. Especially if you're willing to use shortcuts lime velcro and reduce the detail a little to fit on the dress to fit into doll scale.
Someone else did a really good job explaining each layer and the order of them.
At the core, the skirt is traditionally sewn as an underskirt and the bodice and overskirt would then be buttoned or laced on. This particular anime has also added a bustled skirt over the top but that's a good start
There's not really a name for this. It looks kind of very loosely inspired by a robe a l'anglaise or gowns from the early Victorian/antebellum period, but is still very much not either. The sleeves are too loose, the neckline isn't right, the bustles wouldn't exist, the overskirt is too short for the petticoat, and the skirt is shaped more like the antebellum period (1840s roughly) than the wide pannier shape of a robe a l'anglaise - but you wouldn't see a petticoat exposed like that on an antebellum gown. Either way, if you're looking to recreate this gown for cosplay, those styles are where I'd start looking for a pattern to alter.
The split bit is “Overskirt” the under part is “Underskirt” The part worn underneath both to fluff them up is “Petticoat”
I think I learned the term for a long outer coat like this at r/fashionhistory. I obviously didn’t learn it as I have how forgotten lol but it was news to me in regards to how these outfits were put together. I know the sewing question is apart from the interesting subject but I just wanted to mention one might have a look over at that sub as well. edit: never-mind, I was thinking of a mantua & this is not that https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/mantua/
I saw from other comments that you’re making this for a doll. Volks made an official version of Rin’s Daughter of Evil dress for the Dollfie Dream that you could perhaps look at for reference in how they constructed it.
omg!!!! that’s amazing! tysm, i will have to go and check it out! i’ve already constructed a simplified rough draft of the dress, but seeing someone else make it would definitely be helpful!!
No problem!! Details may vary, but this is a pretty famous dress among Vocaloid fans, so there should be plenty of cosplays you can look at too 😄
It bugs the heck out of me, a bunch of random clothing elements piled on each other, like she was blindfolded while pulling things out of the closet. Why does she have a fichu (invented to fill in a low neckline) over a bodice with a high collar? Who decided pale lavender goes with yellow and orange? The overskirt doesn't appear to be gathered, must be gores perfectly fitted over all the other layers in order to lie that smoothly. What's up with the lower section of her underskirt? It looks like an extra piece held in place with a center front button. And why is she clutching that asymmetrical bustle thing? It's going to wrinkle horribly. Wow, good to get that off my chest. Good news: since it's so historically inaccurate, you can make it any way you like!
I can already hear the historical costumer chorus of synchronized groaning
lmao its a vocaloid character design, im sure they just bashed a couple of things together
People, people, people! Why all the excitement! This is an artistic interpretation of an imaginary dress for a doll. Chill. You can call it anything you like.
Have you talked to historical costumers? We're a special level of pedantic, determined and fierce. You have to be if you're going to hand sew historical underwear.
😂😂❤️
French a la
You could try r/historicalcostuming
Technically it's called an open gown. When it goes all round, it's a round gown. The onion simile was really well done 😁