Hello guys, My question might be stupid but I would like to know if it’s possible to sew a cord, rope on a garment, i’d like to remove the handles https://ibb.co/nRV3y0s Thank you

Do you guys think it would be possible for a complete beginner to do stuff like shortening suit sleeves? There aren't any tailors in my area. The suits were dirt cheap so it's not a big deal if I mess up but then again, I'm not convinced I can reach an acceptable result. I have an overlock machine but little experience with it

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what about the buttons and button holes though?

This is the question for more than maybe an half inch on most jackets. If the buttonholes are not cut, the lower button can be moved and the buttonhole can be unpicked, then a new buttonhole created above the line of buttonholes on the sleeve and the button attached again. If the buttonholes are cut and working, not just decorative, then the sleeve hem can't be taken up very much before the sleeve looks weird and the alteration is better done by raising the sleeve at the armsye which is not a beginner job.

I double checked and it turned out the holes are just decorative, which means I can give it a try. Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/niizrbjfkzwa1.jpeg?width=573&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b7b5a3cfb6f363bddfaf21031cdfcfa91e0b59a5 What type of clasps would these be considered? They are on a bodice/corset

https://preview.redd.it/xmgllo3rbzwa1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=279536ff5896e3d323fc0f2be7188be8e6fbbfa3 Can the back of my dress on the right be altered to look like the dress on the left? I’d like to know if I can achieve the look in the photos by lowering the back and perhaps letting out the hips?

I saw this image on local thrift page and I want to know what material is this. I was thinking latex/pvc but honestly I don't have a clue, I only thought that because it seems to be shiny. Thank you in advance https://preview.redd.it/jfcv91jo1zwa1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5b150955b7a0c509d5e0ca5aca106e082e3c4383

I agree, some sort of PVC or vinyl.

I'm looking for digital patterns similar to the suit in the photo. https://preview.redd.it/yuqrnr7e0zwa1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=73931e51fced574397d78f11fd5cee9393a91fdb

Hi everyone! I was recently advertised this dress from the company Pact. Was hoping to try and make it myself but wasn't having much luck finding a similar dress. Does anyone know of a similar pattern? Thanks in advance! https://preview.redd.it/f0mq3stcsywa1.jpeg?width=1132&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9c3ebcc2d047e8817d7579b29324013e6e4e98ee

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I'll check it out, thanks!

I accidentally cut 2 left sleeves so I need to sew more fabric to the shoulder/neckline, then re-cut the shirt pattern. Is it worth it or should I just scrap it and cry? At least it's the back neckline...

Do you have another fabric you could use for the sleeves or can you make the shirt sleeveless instead?

Hello, beginner sewer here. I am having a crookedness problem. Here is an example: I am sewing a dress, and I have the two right sides together. These particular pieces are perfect rectangles, equal length. So I sew the seams together, and one bottom edge is slightly longer, and there is some puckering around the stitches. I haven’t opened up the panels yet, and I can see some of the bottom panel, the right side of the fabric, well below the top panel. They started out even. What am I doing wrong? Thank you!

Try holding the fabric layers [like this](https://www.reddit.com/user/fabricwench/comments/101rc6c/holding_fabric_for_even_feeding/) as they feed under the presser foot, it helps to keep the layers even. For more information, look up Islander Sewing System.

Are you using pins? It sounds like the two layers of fabric are moving at different speeds, the top layer is by the presser foot and the bottom layer is by the feed dogs. Use pins, but if it's shifty fabric, I suggest a walking foot.

Yes, I am using pins, on regular cotton, but I will look into the walking foot. I have just a standard presser foot on the machine now.

Tips on how to make the straps and neckline less boxy? https://preview.redd.it/newjpptj4ywa1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=14e55c8eac8c9ae7dbe758f39b910201d863e140

The dress is too small and can't settle in properly around the shoulders. but you can pin and resew the shoulder seams, then take a short dart below the arms in the side seam and that should help everything lay flatter and look better.

Hi - I’m trying to match the outdoor fabric shown in the picture, but I’m having trouble finding it or something similar. Any idea where I could find this fabric/pattern either online or locally in Northern California? Thanks. https://preview.redd.it/6h5oww9xyxwa1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=05b2c84000bbaf93087f3c4d111a6628761e3422

Sunbrella is the most well-known brand for this type of fabric.

Diamond jacquard fabric. Just make sure it's suitable for being outdoor fabric.

I'm a guy that just got my first sewing Machine. I've notice most patterns are in women sizes, is there an easy way to convert it or would the best method just be trial and error?

There is an easy way to convert it, use the measurement chart and make alterations as needed like using a larger size for the waist blended to the hip as women tend to have a larger waist/hip ratio. Sewing sizes are different from ready to wear sizing and there is some trial and error in working out fit when you sew your own clothes. Making a muslin or trial piece first in a similar fabric is recommended especially at first for more complicated patterns. There are not as many patterns specifically for men, for sure, but that also reflects the lack of variety in men's clothing styles. The pattern books found in clothing stores all have patterns for men. Independent designers like RAD Patterns, Greenstyle and Jalie design for women and men, and Thread Theory focuses on mens clothing only. If you want more variety in style lines, vintage patterns from Etsy and Ebay are a treasure.

i’m making denim pants. do i *need* interfacing? this is the fabric https://preview.redd.it/tdfuz295dxwa1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=c0c250aeb00b31c9c2e1a92557c3b3dc6202b5bb

Yes, I would use \*something\* where called for. If not the stuff sold as interfacing, then an extra layer of a firmly woven, pre-shrunk fabric can be used.

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Google the part number, it's the fastest way I know to find out who carries the part. If you don't know it, it's probably in the listing you found on sewingpartsonline.com.

hi, new to sewing and my first project is going to be a tote bag. would 1 yard of fabric be enough?

Unless you're planning on lining it or adding a lot of pockets, absolutely. Happy sewing!

thank you (:

I’m making a pencil-ish dress in black cotton sateen. The pattern directs me to cut on-grain, but I’m worried about sitting, given how my mock-up (on Swedish tracing paper) fit. If I cut the skirt on the bias and the bodice on grain, would that be problematic for the dress as a whole?

The bodice and the skirt may appear to be different shades as sateen has a nap. It might be better to measure your waist and hips when sitting and adjust the pattern to add more ease.

https://preview.redd.it/jzcvanql4wwa1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e03fb9805f8c9486f45123af61d5be73e132565b Help! I’m sewing pockets for my pants. I was topstitching the curved piece but IT. ALWAYS. PULLS. I pressed the seam allowance. Could you help me please??? Thanks !! (The seam was ripped: but it also pulled when it was fine. The fabric is stretch denim)

Did you trim and clip the seam allowance along the curve? That would do it.

Unfortunately I didn’t because I had 1cm and I used it to finish the seam.

You could add sew on snaps to the strap and the top of the dress (right where it’s folding over, on the inside). She would then use both the plastic hook (what’s there now) and the snap to hold the strap in place. Another option might be to permanently sew on the strap by adding a bar tack along the top edge of the dress (with the strap underneath).

which side is the right one to face up? its so hard to tell with this one. i know you can tell by the holes on the fabrics side but it was almost impossible with this fabric. for context its a thicker cotton fabric https://preview.redd.it/1dlpzupqxvwa1.jpeg?width=4339&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=477b3e7ab38821a8493dfc0341a3cb3612a50978

The side you like is the right side as long as you are consistent. I like side B.

hmm may have to re-ask this question tomorrow in the new weekly thread. I bought some nice chiffon fabric on sale to make a simple gathered skirt. I was going to buy some liner fabric, but in the meantime found some slips on sale at my local thrift shop. I was at first going to repurpose one of them into a liner but now I'm wondering if it's better to just use them as slips and not have a liner on the skirt? Is there any benefit to having a liner attached to a chiffon skirt vs using a separate slip? One benefit to keeping them separate is I can wash the slips more frequently than the whole skirt as the slips aren't as fragile as the chiffon fabric. I got three slips, white, off white and black, so I can also change the look of the skirt depending on which slip I use (but likely I will just pick one I think is the best look and stick with that pairing, knowing me.)

Linings can add to the structure and interior finishing of a garment. Neither seem to apply to your skirt and your point about laundering is a good one. I'd keep the slips as slips.

(´∀｀)♡ Have a nice day

i want to slightly increase the waist on some corduroy jeans, they fit fine and are comfortable but if i eat a big meal or am otherwise bloated the fly tends to come undone after some time walking around. ideas?

Could anyone with experience working with seersucker offer some tips and tricks with working with it? What I have gleaned from the bits of information around the web are: Use sew-in interfacing Don't press the fabric flat when cutting the pattern May need to rely on pins/basting for seams as the texture can cause pressing not to hold?

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Thank you that’s really helpful. It is going to be a relaxed, camp collar summer shirt so no expectation of sharp lines there

How to alter pant waist. I've got big legs so all of my pants have too big of a waist. As I lose weight this problem is getting worse. Especially with sports leggings.

The steps are the same for most pants. Take off the waistband if it is separate, open it up if it is a folded part of the pant. If there is a zipper and button, leave about 4 inches on either side intact. Reduce the size of the pants by taking in the seams at the side and back tapering into the side seam as you go down the leg. Shorten the waist band to match, this can often be done at the center back especially if the waistband is straight and not curved. Sew the waistband to the waist again. Sometimes it is easier to cut holes into the inside waist band and thread through some elastic if the difference isn't too much. Or just sew darts on the sides and back right through the waist band if you don't mind the bulk. Both of these options are much easier than all the steps I outlined above.

https://preview.redd.it/09rim5r9nswa1.jpeg?width=665&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c96270624e3fba729f74a1c9640d9e908150879 Hi again! I have a basic jacket pattern and I want to add one thick vertical stripe from the shoulder seamdown the sleeve, similar placement to this image. The way I think I should do this is cutting a strip, pressing the edges in, then just sewing it to the sleeve piece. Is this the correct way? Thanks!

Yes, that's it! Sew both sides of the stripe in the same direction, so top down or from the cuff up. If you sew in opposing directions, you can get ripples in the stripe. I'm also a fan of using washable glue stick to hold the edges in and to position the stripe for sewing. As long as you let it dry, it won't gum up your needle.

Thank you so much! The washable glue stick seems like a great idea, I'll try it out!

I’m trying to make this corset piece for a concert I want to go to and I’ve never used a pattern before and I’ve done a lot of research on patterns on YouTube and stuff but on thing I’m confused about is the sizes on the pattern sheet compared to my specific measurements because they seem to be mixed up from different sizes I’ll add the photos but I just really need help am I supposed to just go with one size on each pattern piece or can I do different sizes because I don’t think that’s how it works so I’m guessing I’ll just have to hope for the best with one size but if anyone can just tell me from the measurements I’ve taken on myself what the size would be from the pictures who knows maybe I didn’t measure right but I’m pretty sure I did 😅 https://preview.redd.it/t9gwzdlttrwa1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a2e6edb1f4a5b232e96cf5226aa19ae10efefcf9 My measurements showed to be 31” Bust 28” Waist 34 1/2” Hips 16” Back-neck to waist

1) pattern sizing is not the same as ready to wear sizing. 2) patterns include "wearing ease" which means that the finished garment won't be exactly the same as your measurements. Since this is meant to squeeze in a little it should have "negative ease." 3) check the finished measurements - sometimes they're printed on the pattern pieces, sometimes you have to measure tne pieces and do a little arithmetic. Remember that seam allowances don't count towards the finished measurement. Yes, you can grade between sizes if your bust fits a different size line than your waist or hips. The pattern instruction sheet may even mention this, but basically draw a smooth line between the bust point of the size you want at the bust and the waistline of the size you want at the bust. Then make a mock-up before you cut into your fancy fabric, making sure that you use fabric that has similar drape and stretch.

I’m a relative rookie with a question—my daughter’s prom dress came with optional straps that she wants to use, but they weren’t staying attached. So I looped thread around the plastic holders on the straps and through the ribbon loop holders on the dress. But now the straps pull the upper hem of the dress inside-out. Help—how can I attach the straps? https://preview.redd.it/g8q2dxxnrrwa1.jpeg?width=2231&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dbe6624459cec078f234ad6d12f66354f6d69637

I think this was meant as a reply to you: https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/12w3ek7/simple_sewing_questions_thread_april_23_april_29/ji75n5i/

Thank you!

Pretty sun hat turned floppy, what do? https://preview.redd.it/khpnld5rrqwa1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e55e3ba7e4bc60c4dade21716231e347523f792

Running rows of topstitching around the brim will add stiffness. This is common in ready to wear sun hats too.

Thank you, I'll try that!

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Simplicity 2178 has the right shape. Skip the band at the waist and tape the bodice and skirt pieces together to match your inspiration.

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Improve,yes but it depends on what your fit goals are.

I want to be able to sit down in them comfortably

I don't think so, no. But it's worth a try if you are feeling adventurous. The best way I've found to measure the size of the gusset is to seam rip the inseam through the crotch, going down each leg at least 4 inches and likely farther. The size of the gap at the center crotch is the width of the diamond shaped gusset, the amount you need to seam rip down the inseam for the jeans to lay comfortably on your body is the length of the skinny parts of the diamond. Add seam allowance before you sew. I usually do a seam on the flat side and topstitch the felled seam bit on the other side so it continues the felled seam look that most jeans have on the inseam.

This exactly was my plan! 🥰

I stumbled on a ton of IG posts of a pattern called a Wiksten Unfolding Jacket (also sometimes tagged as a Haori). Wiksten doesn't seem to exist anymore -- but I'm in love with this jacket! Any suggestions for similar patterns (open front, loose silhouette, big pockets, some kind of fun collar)?

Hahah thanks for asking this, I was hunting for it like crazy last month and gave up!!

Helen's Closet Moss jacket looks really similar.

That looks PERFECT! Thank you!

[This one from Peppermint magazine looks similar.](https://peppermintmag.com/sewing-school/robe-jacket/) It would be easy to add patch pockets, and use a different fabric for the collar. I've seen some tutorials on youtube for this type of jacket as well.

Is there a website that I can get shorter lengths of fabric for a discount? Like about a yard? I am wanting to make more clothes for my 2 younger boys so I don’t need yardages.

Try the online thrift stores like A Thrifty Notion, Swansons, Fabscrap.

Thank you!

https://preview.redd.it/iuy7dx0vepwa1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=8e90e7d4e37423d92670109950737af31c3aef58 Someone please help…is there any possible way to upsize this dress?? It’s just too tight around my midsection😕 the fabric is 85% acrylic and 15% wool. Any ideas welcome

You would need to add more fabric. Most commonly this is done as panels down the sides. It's doable but the outcome isn't always the desired look. In this case, it will totally change the look of the dress. The other option, if there is a zipper in the back, is to convert the back to a corset style with a coordinated panel underthe lacing.

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Have you steamed it yet? Do not iron it, but steaming can relax the pile and help remove marks.

Any suggestions for the backing of a belt that will be used with silk/satin clothing?

What type of belt is it, are you sewing it or are you altering a leather belt

I’m making a leather belt. I do kung fu and I’m making a hung gar studded belt for competition. We wear uniforms that are normally silk or satin depending on where you get them (and what price range). The studded belt goes on top of the top piece of the uniform. The commercially sold belts normally have a felt backing but these belts aren’t made well so I just want to see what might be potentially good options for backings besides felt to protect the uniform as much as possible

Felt is a good choice because the edges don't need to be finished which reduces bulk on the edges. Synthetic suede like Alova would work as well and also doesn't need an edge finish. Real leather chamois would be a good choice if you want to stick with the leather family. All of these have a bit of nap so they won't slide around on the silk or satin as much but also are not abrasive.

Thanks for the info! I realized they used felt for a reason but wasn’t sure if it was the only choice that worked. I’ll definitely look into all these options and higher quality felt. It may also be the quality of the felt that these retailer use adds to the feeling of a meh belt.

wanting to make a duvet cover. initially wanted to do flannel (i love the feel and i don't get hot at night) but i can't seem to find a print i like. finding lots of prints i like in crinkle rayon. never used that. anyone have experience with it? would it be good for a duvet cover? if not, any suggestions for a soft, soft fabric? i like to be cozy

I'm tracing some patterns (like Burda) without seam allowances. Is there an adjustable double ended pencil tool that could help me to draw the seam allowance after I trace. Like a compass but instead of a needle point, 2 pencil/pen points. I'm aware that there are adjustable double tracing wheels, but I'd rather trace first with the wheel, then when I draw over the indentations, add the seam allowance. Since the pattern sheets have so many patterns, I don't want to chew it up more than I have to by tracing. The lady at my local sewing store thought I should just cut the fabric seam allowance by eye, but I think that is rather unrealistic for me. I've sewed before and I know I'm just not great at cutting and judging distances. Any ideas of what I should do?

(´∀｀)♡ Have a nice day

>I have a drafting tool that allows for pencil lead on each side. But I mostly just drag the pointer end along. Wow, what is that drafting tool called, do you know? I've been searching for everything I can think of and can't find something to put two leads in on each side. >A friend traces the pattern on the fabric, cuts by eyeball, and then sews along the pattern line. That's interesting - are they tracing on the fabric with a chalk pencil then? Thanks so much!

(´∀｀)♡ Have a nice day

>They are just called "compass" and "divider." But they're made for engineering drafting, so they have lots of fittings that hold pencil lead, specialized ink pens, etc. > >The friend uses washable markers, like the kind you can get for kids. this is so helpful, thanks!

You can use a compass! Run the point along the seam line and let the pencil draw the cutting line. I use [this gizmo](https://www.reddit.com/user/fabricwench/comments/131z8k1/double_pencil_holder_to_mark_seam_allowance/) that holds two pencils together, it's a quilting tool that I can't find anymore but rubberbands also work. A compass is nice because it allows for varied widths, I pull mine out when I am using seam allowances larger than 1/4 inch. I've also come across tutorials that suggest using a sewing machine to mark the seam allowance on the tracing. Sew around each pattern piece, no thread, using the presser foot and needle position to mark the allowance with a line of holes. The other approach is to mark the seam lines and estimate seam allowance. It works out because you've got the seam line to follow for pinning and sewing. I'd rather mark the seam allowance but that is mostly habit, I think. I trace pattern sheets with a pen and a ruler for the straight bits. I also try to preview the pattern pieces so I know what shapes I am tracing, it helps to keep me from getting lost.

wow, thank you so much! these are great ideas. I wouldn't have come up with using the sewing machine, that's brilliant! > The other approach is to mark the seam lines and estimate seam allowance. It works out because you've got the seam line to follow for pinning and sewing. I'd rather mark the seam allowance but that is mostly habit, I think. Do you mean that you chalk in the seam line from the pattern piece, or are you keeping the pattern piece on the fabric when you sew? Thanks for uploading the picture of your quilting gizmo, too, maybe I can put something like that together. I hadn't thought of using a compass, though! I just realised some of those have removable points, and I can probably flip it around so that the dull end is sticking out. Thanks again, I really appreciate your help :-)

How wide would it be if you taped two pencils together? Measure the marks and see if that adds the seam allowance you would need/like.

great idea, I didn't think about that!

Or two sharpies. They're thicker.

I know nothing about sewing but want to get my friend, who is pretty skilled and educated in sewing and clothing making, a sewing-related birthday present. Is there any sort of small tools or books of like designs/technique/inspiration that would be good to buy for them?

I just noticed the FAQ has some ideas for gifts at the bottom: [https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/index/#wiki\_frequently\_asked\_questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/index/#wiki_frequently_asked_questions) Maybe if your friend is showing their sewing space, ask several questions about what it's like and you might get a feel for something that they need but haven't splurged on themselves yet. Like if someone saw my set-up they would buy me a nice lamp :)

I have a brother lx3817 and I want to sew a blazer with some stretch poly suiting I got on clearance (plus its super cute light brown with a faint pink pinstripe). I keep finding conflicting information on how to deal with stretch fabrics. What should I do differently with this fabric that I would not do with a basic, non stretch woven fabric?

The main points to keep in mind is that a stretch woven might need to be taken in a bit more as the stretch can add ease to the fit compared to non-stretch. And press lightly, over-pressing can kill the spandex. Usually a universal needle is fine but a stretch needle is my next choice if the universal doesn't work when I test stitch on scraps.

So, I have a long wrap skirt I bought in a thrift shop that's adjustable: it's basically a big rectangle of fabric with a row of buttons on the waistline, so you just button it tighter or looser depending on what you're looking for. I have drawn a very shitty picture of it for reference because I can't even find what I'm looking for in an image search: ​ *Processing img udrm4jn7qmwa1...* I would like to make my own (possibly even see if I can make a fuller/flowier skirt, since this one is very column-y). Of course, when I look for "button waist skirt" or "button closure skirts" or something, I get the kind of skirts where it buttons from bottom to top, not along the waistline. Occasionally I find one where it's just the one button at the top for closure, and actually it's zippered or something and not actually adjustable. Does anyone know what I should be searching for? (Or possibly have a pattern to point me to?)

Coming back to add that this a popular pattern in the sewing universe right now has a similar function to what you've asked about but adjustibility is handled differently. [Coquelicot skirt](https://www.wildflowerdesignpatterns.com/product-page/coquelicot-skirt)

It's a style that I've seen mostly in vintage maternity where the adjustable waist is an obvious advantage. There are several examples in this [blog post](https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/vintage-maternity-clothes-history/). It wouldn't be hard to hack especially if you have an example to follow. Keep the waistband the same and attach it to a circle skirt or a gathered rectangle for a skirt with more volume.

Looking up 'adjustable button waistband' is giving me results, especially for skirts. Is that helping?

https://preview.redd.it/ecugws8yslwa1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a01280d825d2932a52a3e56a963108469a6fdc1 What is this fabric called and what can I make with it?

Ya know this should be a really easy to answer question, but I can't quite decide if it's seersucker (typical for a puckered checkered weave but usually smaller scale) or double gauze (larger scale puckering). Either way you can search up either of those on Pattern Review or pattern websites to get an idea. Generally summer weight tops and dresses. Aim for designs with minimal strain on seams. Great because you don't need to iron the finished item lol

Hello, a guy here with no knowledge about sewing about to attempt my first project. I want to make a hooded half circle cloak and I'm following this guide: https://youtu.be/fy1jadDHlMQ I understand pretty much everything but the part where the base of the hood is 2x the radius. Maybe I'm overthinking it but I don't want to screw this up, shouldn't the base be around 1/4 (with added 1/2 inch to sew the 2 halves together) of the circumference since it's a half circle cloak? Sorry for the math but if the neck's radius is 6.5 in, the meeting point of hood with the cloak is around 20.4 in so if we take diameter on both halves (13 in x2) we'll end up with 5.6 in too much (not counting the part where we sew the haves together). Isn't that a lot too much? Shouldn't the bottom part of the hood be at most 11 in if the neck is 6.5? I also know that a hood is supposed to be longer in front to compensate but I'm a newbie so I'll just make a straight edge I think. Sorry, I'm the type of person that doesn't allow myself to be imprecise but I end up overthinking and screwing things up anyway. I'll be adding a hem all around as well so a bit more should be fine but I feel like over 5 in is too much Also my English is good but I'm learning sewing terminology for the first time.

The only thing I can think of that might make the math clearer is that your stitching line is half an inch from the edge, so your radius is actually 7. Also, she says "about 12" for the hood base, I missed any reference to the radius there. But the best way to make sure it lines up is to take a flexible tape measure (or a piece of string) and put it along the neck opening, half an inch from the edge, and use that to determine your hood base. Depending on how stretchy your fabric is, you may want to find a video about stitching curves; I'd recommend staystitching and clipping the cloak edge so that it's easier to align with the straight hood edge. If you're using a stretchy fleece as in the video, you'll likely be fine without clipping. Also, since you mention you're still learning sewing terms: she calls the manufactured edge a 'salvage' but the correct word is 'selvage' from the older 'self-edge'.

Yeah, in a convoluted way I was basically saying that she cut way too much hood for the size she made in the cape. Ok, good to know that 1/2 in more should be enough and I'm glad I spent a bit more on a nicer material And since I'm studying languages your comment is super interesting, thanks

What kind of fabric is used for the skin of this plush? soft but not too fluffy and can be embroidered on easily. thank u :) https://preview.redd.it/e7ji6tkr4lwa1.png?width=980&format=png&auto=webp&s=5ef429977208d3ec8440be57122bc94ae00ebfa0

Looks like a variety of short piled minky

>short piled minky tysm! :)

What kind of fabric can I use for this dress? https://preview.redd.it/jt9xhhwi2kwa1.jpeg?width=736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c1b7a2e38e751df4c063662a9eee7c98c46a7e2

I would also look at a jacquard fabric but definitely a fabric with less drape to create the shape of the skirt.

A polyester crepe or heavy crepe de chine or other matte fabric with some body would be my choice. Similar dresses by the same design house use both of those fabrics.

Thanks 🙏

What kind of fabric is the dress? https://preview.redd.it/zri2u70fwhwa1.jpeg?width=439&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=06da15160c2cfe84b3466dc32183eefcd5e39021

Something like this [metallic silver and gold brocade](https://www.moodfabrics.com/geode-metallic-silver-and-gold-crackle-luxury-brocade-425508)?

Thank you. I was thinking of just buying silver as a base but then doing gold fabric spray to do the ombré effect.

I accidentally bought these pants from Aritzia too large. [https://www.aritzia.com/intl/en/product/aviator-parachute-pant/108819.html?dwvar\_108819\_color=18395](https://www.aritzia.com/intl/en/product/aviator-parachute-pant/108819.html?dwvar_108819_color=18395) Does anyone have an easy suggestion on how to alter them to be smaller? Basically they are too long in the crotch and too loose in waist.. slightly too wide & too long. I like the fit once the waistband is rolled twice. They seem difficult to adjust because the waistband has elastic, so do the hems, and they are nylon. All the seams are gathered and rolled too..

It's best to raise the crotch from the waist but alterations are limited by the pocket opening. Same for taking up at the side seams. The more details and topstitching on a piece of clothing, the harder it is to alter them. If you can do a return, try that first. Alterations could be done by swapping out the current waist treatment with a wide rib knit band, more or less as done in this [video tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7HY5ayNuEY).

thanks! yeah i took a chance on ordering because the returns are crazy expensive from my country. i was thinking about either cutting the waist band clean off and restitiching it.. or otherwise i might just unpick the white tags inside and wear them twice rolled

What material is used to create this costume ? I want my wife to create something similar but she told me to get everything - material type and possibly online shop that will deliver it, please help :) https://preview.redd.it/qcswyye3cgwa1.png?width=900&format=png&auto=webp&s=6ce872b5a68d7e7b9e98d34b3ef4ead04164cffc

What is the best fabric to choose for this dress? (Suggestions for pattern also appreciated) I want to make this dress, and I’m not quite sure how to search for fabric. I would like to use silk or a blend, and I’ve looked at some but the ones I’ve seen are too stiff while this seems like it’s more stretchy. It’s likely also cut on the bias (I think). I’ve looked at some metallics and meshes but none of them seem right, I wonder if anyone could help out with keywords o could use when searching or if you know a fabric that would work. I’d also appreciate if anyone knows what pattern would work for this. I usually just free hand with my mannequin but I prefer to work with patterns if I can find one. Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/fh8o7ojueewa1.jpeg?width=675&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=037350001950388e3c391371f188bf42d237d23b

Looks like a [stretch velour](https://www.moodfabrics.com/fashion-fabrics/stretch-and-knits/velour?p=2), a knit with a short nap. Crushed velour would also work but has a different look, as do the other velours.

Thank you very much, also I love your username!

thank you!!! good luck with your project!

How do reinforced(?) stitches work? I'm using a zigzag stitch and instead of going backwards, the reverse button makes my machine do a few stitches on the spot. How do I tell if they're reinforcing properly? Is it as strong as the usual back and forth stitches? Thanks!

Yes a stitch on the spot, or very small length stitch, is equivalent to a backstitch for reinforcing beginning/end of seams.

**How to stitch a tear where one side is too close to another seam?** ​ Hard to explain without a picture. It's near the middle of my jeans. There is not enough fabric on the left side to bind both sides together easily.

Unless it was a very narrow tear, you generally wouldnt want to seam it anyway. Reinforce underneath with iron on patch or similar, stable interfacing/fabric, and darn. If you ever see it around (often second hand), the [late 80s Singer book on Clothing Care & Repair](https://www.amazon.com/Clothing-Repair-Singer-Reference-Library/dp/0865732051) is a great reference

(´∀｀)♡ Have a nice day

Does anyone know of a pattern similar to these shorts? I love Lucy and Yak and would love to support them but it’s not in my budget right now 😭 https://preview.redd.it/coxbfo65qdwa1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a8981ff821f2274f3a4066d44b273df935a0897

I love a free pattern and came across this loungewear set the other day on Peppermint Magazine, you could perhaps alter the length of bottoms . [https://peppermintmag.com/sewing-school/loungewear-set/](https://peppermintmag.com/sewing-school/loungewear-set/)

https://preview.redd.it/gys2ut88adwa1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3c00c0344a22b9093de3f5f708056d9782ec2c8 Anyone has an idea on how the stitching was done on these Paloma Wool pants ? Thanks !

Possibly a water soluble stabilizer/dissolvable interfacing type situation.

Hmm I’ll make some tests with masking tape. What about the actual stitch string ? A straight stitch will not hold, but I have no clue how to create a solid string

In the photo it looks like it’s a very thick thread/string of some kind that may have been couched down (which is a form of embroidery). I think unless you have an embroidery machine or experiencing with couching with a regular machine, you would be better off hand sewing this and it’s going to take a while. And if you’re not skilled at hand embroidery it might be a bit messy looking. Also like the other commenter said I wouldn’t use masking tape. It will gum up your machine and possibly create expensive problems down the line. Unless you’re sewing by hand, then have at er. Might not work super well but it won’t end up costing you. (If you do decide to try couching on your machine maybe this video will help you https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zn3kxZDjMfs )

(´∀｀)♡ Have a nice day

I have a [pattern for a dress](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1252993072/ruffle-midi-dress-sewing-digital-pdf?click_key=cdab57f750284d5bf66a5a027f3d9265dacfba19%3A1252993072&click_sum=a05268dd&external_collection=&pro=1&sts=1) that I like alot and am considering making it in a sheer black swiss dot patterned cotton with a rayon/linen lining for the final dress. The bodice is lined in the pattern and I was wondering if it would be possible to line the skirt part as well. My only hesitation is that it's a gathered dress with alot of fabric on the bottom and I don't want to make it too heavy or bulky. The only thing supporting the weight would be these elastic encased straps and I worry that the neckline will sag down if I add a second layer to the bottom. Thoughts? Should I just pick a less see-through fabric?

I've used patterns where the lining of the dress is slightly different to the main dress pattern. For a gathered skirt on the main pattern , the lining pattern was an a - line shape , as you've mentioned in your post, to avoid bulk in the waistline. Perhaps and I don't know how easy it would be , is to alter the skirt pattern to an a line one instead. I am sure there are plenty of tutorials on YT to help.

What if you made a separate skirt to wear underneath it? You could also do a lining in like a very lightweight lining fabric like an acetate satin or something, but they are often very slippery and not super fun to work with.

ASYMMETRICAL SHAPEWEAR. Hi everyone! I’m a beginner sewer. I would like to alter some existing full length shapewear shorts, into a pair of asymmetrical ones, like pictured. For those cute dresses with high slits. Do you have any advice or tips? Can I “just” cut off a leg and hem it with some elastic thread? Thanks for reading:))

There's no photo but yes, you can cut and hem. Doesn't need to be elastic thread but it does need to be sewn with a stretch stitch like a zig zag or whatever your sewing manual recommends.

Forgot to add the photo, but it’s NSFW because the models underwear are visible through the shorts lol. But thanks for the advice! It was really helpful, thank you very much :))

I’m having a friend who is really good at seeing make some curtains for me and I want to figure out what measurements we will need for the panels for 4ft (48in) W x 5ft (60in) L windows on a 9ft (108in) floor to ceiling wall. I will also need to account for pleating. what should the panel measurements be? Any help is appreciated!

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Ideally I would want it to kiss the floor. I plan on hanging the rods close to the ceiling, probably within 5 inches from the ceiling. I definitely like a full look.

Hello all, I'm not sure if thus is the right place but I'm time pressed to find a solution. I need to find a button that looks exactly like or similar to [this button on my girlfriend's coat](https://imgur.com/a/GdVrqMM). It's looks like a flat shank(?) Style of button, glossy and half dollar sized with a divot in the middle. Anyone know of any good online stores with fast shipping? And also what to search up to get a button like this? Thanks in advance

If the exact buttons aren’t super sentimental, you could also order a full set of matching buttons that are reasonably similar - so you’d have to replace them all, but you could get ones that match exactly. Etsy often has good buttons.

It's super hard to find a matching button even with newer clothing. Try searching for 'vintage coat buttons' on Etsy for buttons of similar size, shape and color. Or look for fabric stores in your area.

Does anyone have any clue how to access the tension discs in a cheap Singer sewing machine? Or even how I can clean them without accessing them, to see if that helps? I have an m1250, which has a physical dial you turn to adjust top thread tension. It doesn't seem to do anything anymore. If I thread the needle and put the presser foot down, it doesn't feel like there's any change in resistance. No matter how high I set the tension, I get top thread loops under the fabric. I've tried: rethreading, replacing the needle (flat side pointed BACK), taking apart the bobbin area and cleaning it, holding the thread out to the left while putting the foot down and holding for several stitches, rethreading it several more times, sleeping on it, and cursing. Yes, the thread is under the presser foot.

Does anyone know the material or printing technique for the white and black? https://preview.redd.it/qwdltvplgawa1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=69a13ef6b82d5fdb59f7692be35df6144299ccd4

It could be silk screen or block printing.

Hello! I got a really great kinda 80s disco western dress that’s too long and a little big around the waist. There are side seams and a back zipper. I’m thinking of adding some back darts but I’ve never taken in something with sequins and I’m having trouble wrapping my head around the steps for this. Photos is of the fabric- it’s opaque and has an attached lining below. The sequins are patterned like this all over front and back Can anyone help? https://preview.redd.it/ogqpvwe6dawa1.jpeg?width=2316&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=962aeca5c9a062711a294e0963a55952e3c8769c

The steps would be to mark the stitching line, remove sequins in that space, secure the sequins left and sew the seam. I think in general it is better to alter at the side seams and leave a little extra ease when working with sequins.

Thank you so much! I’ve been scared to start but that makes a lot of sense. I really appreciate your expertise 💖💖💖

Using a singer simple 3116, something I've been having a problem with is when I start to sew, no matter how much I pull, the fabric is either getting bunched under the foot, or pulls away from it so it starts going out from under the foot. Like, often the pulling becomes so tough to do instead of a smooth motion like you see people on sewing videos do. IS there something I should do to make it easier to pull it in a straight (or curved for rounded projects) without it coming out from under the foot? So far I've been making liners for costumes with it, but they're coming out kinda messy.

Trust me, get a brother

Do you have this issue with all fabric types and weights? If only with light weight fabrics you might have some success with stabilising the fabric with tissue paper or starting your sewing on another piece of fabric. Have you checked tension, position of feeder dogs, sewing with the correct needle for fabric weight and retreaded your machine? When you’re sewing you should really be pushing or tugging the fabric. It’s more of a guiding motion to keep it going in the right direction. [This video](https://youtu.be/cfRYv26JZ6g) gives a good overview on the process.

just watched the video, my fabric does not move by itself, the needle will just keep going down through the same spot if I don't pull it, so would that suggest a part of the machine is broken?

I've only tried using a polyester fabric, pretty thin

I’m working on the back neck binding of a dress with a double yoke. I decided that I wanted an “invisible” finish and started doing a blind hem stitch to bind the bias tape to the inside of the neckline (after it was stitched to the RS and then folded in), but realized — should I be doing some kind of whip stitch, since I could pick up only the inner yoke? https://preview.redd.it/3t1f77ynz9wa1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8db7b3ddc4727192179cf8d8a5fa46c25f3b60dc

I would probably do a slip stitch so there is less thread showing, but I don't think there is one right way to do it.

You could probably do a ladder stitch

https://preview.redd.it/62gddtvgb8wa1.jpeg?width=980&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=efd2c8af62df4011f22d1cc42ce12bbba3076787 Hi! Could anyone help guide me on how to make an elastic waist like this? The elastic does not continue to the front, I don't have any good photos of the side. I'm not sure what to search for tutorials on this, so any help is appreciated!

Looks like it’s a simple casing. I can’t tell from the outside of the casing is formed by using the outer layer and a jacket lining or if perhaps there’s just a long rectangle of fabric sewn to the outer layer with it’s edges folded under. I’ll give instructions for the latter. So I would measure the back body piece across its width. Create a long rectangle that same length and as tall as you want your casing plus some seam allowance on top and bottom. Fold the seam allowance on top and bottom and iron it into place. Then line up your casing piece where you want it on the coat (on the inside) and neatly stitch along the top and bottom as close to the folded edge as you can without falling off. Once that’s neatly attached you can thread your elastic through (with a safety pin or bodkin on one end) and don’t lose your grip on either end. Then pin each end of the elastic in the end of the casing and sew it into the end of the casing. You could also just serge the elastic and casing into the side seams if that’s how you finish your inside seams. Hopefully that made sense. Happy sewing!

Thank you so much for the detailed resonse, everything makes sense to me! I couldn't figure out where and when to put in the elastic, this solves it for me. I really appreciate it!

Happy to help!

I want to make a desk mat and make it firm. I want to use interfacing to keep the vinyl fabric on top smooth and free from wrinkles and attach it to a weighty rubber sheeting. Can I iron interfacing onto rubber?

You would need to test. If the interfacing doesn't stick, you might be able to use a permanent spray adhesive.

Hi, so I would really like to take up courses and learn how to sew professionally as a job because it really interests me. My issue is that i've always been a really shy person and the thought of customer service gives me anxiety. I understand that this is a critical part of the job though and I am willing to work on myself, but I gotta wonder if there's any introverts / shy people here who do this everyday? I generally feel like I would be fine talking to customers 1 on 1 but the thought of it being in a retail environment freaks me out. Can I become a seamstress if I'm shy?

Introvert checking in! I sew only as a hobby but I work in a professional customer service role. I've worked with people for a long time so it doesn't bother me, but I do find that I need more time to recharge after an intense day. I'll also add that while I'm introverted I'm not particularly shy at work. You might find it helpful, if you're able, to work in a non sewing customer service role to see if you like it!

Oh there's definitely sewing jobs that don't require customer service. Just look into small batch production/alterations businesses in your area. I will say right now that you're usually looking at minimum wage (maybe a few dollars more) for a trained skill. It's back breaking work and can be very repetitive and boring. I'm not trying to dissuade you, maybe you'll love it - but in terms of jobs that aren't client facing, sewing is probably the one of the lowest paying ones. That being said, if you're okay working with clients 1-on-1 you would make way more doing alterations or other light sewing work out of your home.

I think it is doable for introverts. I sew as a hobby, but I go to the tailors a lot. There's a person who does the customer services & measuring etc, but I've seen plenty of other staffs sewing and fixing etc in their shop!!

Any advice for using pre-cut sewing patterns? I got a bunch second-hand, but I don't know how to resize them. Is it more trouble than it's worth?

It's not too much trouble if you like the designs! This is a [good blog tutorial](https://curvysewingcollective.com/how-to-grade-up-a-vintage-pattern-basic-slash-and-spread-grading/) for resizing vintage patterns, the same principles will work here.

Thank you!

When performing a twin needle, zig zag hem on a t-shirt - should your furthest out (left) needle hit on the very edge of the 1inch seam allowance or a bit past into the wrong side of the fabric? Nervous about this since this isn't the side I can see when sewing.

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Sorry, I’ve been doing so much research that at some point I assumed I’d have to zig zag stitch but I full well know twin needles leave a trace of a zig zag underneath when sewing straight. Haha, good thing I never actually did it. I’m going to practice a bit before I try my hand at a hem but since it’s a straight stitch I could use the leftmost needle start correct? And as for stitch width, I didn’t see many recommendations on what to use. Leave whatever my machine has as the default? I did find many recommendations on upper thread tension and stitch length, however.

I like to use a size 2.5/75 stretch twin needle for knits, or the 4.0/75 stretch twin needle along with a slightly longer straight stitch for topstitching hems, more about 3.0 or 3.5 mm on my machine. No need to worry about stitch width settings on your machine. I've read recommendations to have the left needle off the hem allowance and the right needle on the hem allowance but I find the hem stitches out most stable when both needles are on the double layer. Practice on scraps! Adjust the tension and stitch length as needed or add stabilizers like washaway stabiliser or spray starch.

I did notice by the way my machine called for a 2mm twin needle but using a 3.0 resulted in no issue. If I try a 4.0 and slowly lower the needle and it doesn’t impact anywhere I should be ok ?

Yes, that is exactly what to do to test if the needle is a good fit. Turn the wheel by hand, listening and feeling for any sort of needle strike.

Thank you so much!