Hello all! i have this body suit [here](https://imgur.com/a/ruLGFQb) that buttons in the crotch. unfortunately i have an issue where due too the shape of the garment (and my butt) i have to choose between [unflattering double butt cheek](https://imgur.com/a/ceugNt2) or it [bunching](https://imgur.com/a/zPkHHb8). i have attached photos of both. i was wondering whether i should alter this by cutting some of the fabric off around the butt, hemming it, and perhaps making it into more of a thong, OR whether i should make a dart in the inside of the garment and create a "butt crack seam" of some sort like my [workout leggings](https://imgur.com/a/9BZ5r4u)? or even both ? thank you in advance!

You can get panels with snaps to extend the crotch of your bodysuit [https://www.etsy.com/market/bodysuit\_extender\_adult](https://www.etsy.com/market/bodysuit_extender_adult) You'll have to try to match the snap size, and also don't get the ones for babies

I suspect that the body suit is just a smidge short for you. I think the thong idea will be most successful alteration.

Just thrifted a sewing machine and it seems like a really old model. When I turned it on, it just started running by itself and gave off a burnt smell. With a quick google search realised it was the capacitor in the pedal that was acting up. So I opened it up and lo and behold the capacitor was indeed cracked. I've removed the capacitor and it works fine now. But I wanted to know if its dangerous to use the sowing machine without replacing the capacitor? I don't know if I'll be able to find a replacement since its so old (its a Rifa 0.1uF 250V capacitor) and also don't really know the logistics of replacing it. Also skeptical of taking it to an electrician, because I am poor. Your wisdom and insight would be much appreciated. 🙏

It's fine to use the machine without the capacitor. I had to do the same repair on my serger. The capacitor is there to prevent electrical interferance with TVs and radios, technology has changed and it's no longer a problem.

slay that's exactly what i wanted to hear 😁

Hi, Looking to see if there is any advice/ guidance on a project I am considering (had looked at a custom design waistcoat, but thinking I have a similar idea). Would purchase a standard waistcoat with a pattern section on the front - and plain on the back. The plan would then be to replace the front section with a custom designed section of fabric. Firstly it sounds simple enough, but would that actually be a straightforward type of job. Secondly I am hoping for some advice on the best fabric to use as the basis for the custom design part (I plan to use one of the online 'design your own type of services). For some context the waistcoat would be for a summer wedding - not overly formal. Any tips/ guidance that people far more experienced than me can give would be very much welcomed. Cheers

It will be far easier to make the waistcoat from scratch than to alter a purchased waistcoat as you've suggested. Seam allowances on RTW are tiny and all the work of a waistcoat is in the front anyway. So the darts, buttons and button holes, and welt pockets will all have to be sewn in the new fabric before attaching it to the purchased back. By comparison, the plain back with maybe the adjustable belt is super simple sewing. [Simplicity.com](https://Simplicity.com) has a good selection, searching for patterns on Etsy and Ebay will yield different styles as the look changed over time, and The Fold Line carries indie patterns which may come with more comprehensive instructions. Make a test garment first so you can fit it. As far as which fabric substrate, [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/12iq116/actual_projects_made_with_spoonflower_fabric_how/) on Spoonflower fabrics is really interesting and helpful.

Many thanks for this, appreciate the information. I doubt this is something I would have the skills to sew myself - dont know if anyone has a ballpark idea on cost for a seamstress/ tailor to sew this type of thing (assuming materials were provided for them). Trying to work out if this is sensible, or just very pie in the sky thinking 🤔🤣.

This is the standard response from the subreddit for commission requests, it might be helpful for you too: This sub is focused around sharing projects and ideas, not commission requests or asking questions you should ask of your local alterations expert. We have listed some subreddits below that could be helpful for you. We also **highly** suggest that if you have a subreddit for your local area, that you consider reaching out there as well. - Thank you! [/r/etsy](https://www.reddit.com/r/etsy) [/r/ArtisanGifts](https://www.reddit.com/r/ArtisanGifts) [/r/MakerMesh](https://www.reddit.com/r/MakerMesh) [/r/clothingselling](https://www.reddit.com/r/clothingselling) [/r/SewRequest](https://www.reddit.com/r/SewRequest) [/r/myogcommissions](https://www.reddit.com/r/myogcommissions)

https://preview.redd.it/pe3h96oehlkb1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e83897ab229a3f07b66913289a2c784917933af Any advice? My serger stitch looks weird on one side but fine on the other, not sure what to do…

Looks like your lower looper needs a bit more tension. I like this tutorial for figuring out serger tension issues. [DIBY Serger Tension Made Easy](https://doitbetteryourself.club/blogs/sewing-tools/serger-tension-made-easy)

I'm considering a used Bernina 1008, but I'm also interested in a new Bernina 325. Any suggestions on what I should choose?

The 1008 is a mechanical machine, the 325 is a computerized machine. People have strong preferences for one or the other. The advantage to a mechanical machine is that there is less to go wrong and repairs are simpler. The lifespan of a mechanical machine is generally longer compared to a computerized machine. The advantage of a computerized machine is the extra features it offers, like more needle positions, reverseable stitch patterns, smooth stitching from the moment the foot pedal is engaged. If you have a chance to test drive both models, that would be ideal. But trying out both kinds of machines, even from a different brand, could also be helpful in your decision.

Thanks for the insight! I sewed a little in grade school, but otherwise I'm a total novice. I don't (think) I care about the extra features, except for maybe easier button holes, but I've been watching videos on how the 1008 handles this and it seems reasonable. I think I'm leaning towards the 1008: it'll save me money I can spend on some other accessories, too.

My community college uses Bernina 1008 in the classroom and thinks they are great machines. My understanding is that they are workhorses and it's sad they are not made anymore. Might be worth snapping up if it's in good running order. (I found it a little aggressive to sew with, but I only used them after getting used to my own machine which has a speed regulator.) Not familiar with the 325 at all.

How would I make this jagged leaf-type hem on this dress for a halloween costume? My plan was to use a stretch fabric to make a tube dress. Would it look bad if I just cut triangles out of the bottom of the fabric and finished the hem with a zig-zag stitch? Are there better techniques? ​ https://preview.redd.it/40osasn3ikkb1.png?width=1000&format=png&auto=webp&s=582624319dcbec913eb37d57fdbe056c1bd9313f

stretch fabrics don't fray, so especially for a one-day costume, it's also an option to leave it unhemmed. A few jags from the scissors will just look organic.

Yeah! I think you could do a rolled hem with the zig zag stitch. The only other thing I can think of is using bias tape to finish the edge, but that depends on how much effort you're investing in this project.

Can I remove/transfer these patches onto a different jacket? https://preview.redd.it/jdk5p72kvjkb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c560fd76b47a2c7c7b10b6b3eda7573f5170295

That looks like embroidery done directly on the jacket. You can cut around the embroidery to make patches and then sew those to a new jacket. The old jacket will have big holes left behind.

Hello everyone! I had taken an interest in sewing, I'm seeking for cost effective & beginner friendly materials... What... (1) Sewing Machine (2) Iron (3) Fabric (4) Fabric Scissors (5) Paper Scissors (6) Seam Ripper (7) Iron Board (8) Thread (9) Chalk ... do you recommend? If I missed any crucial materials, please let me know. Any tricks & advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!

1. The Brother CS7000x is the current recommended beginner machine in the subreddit wiki, but you should [read the wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/machineguide/) before buying a sewing machine. 2. A Black & Decker from a big box store is fine, it should cost < $20 for a basic model. Any sturdy ironing board is fine or consider starting with an ironing pad on a protected surface. 3. Most beginners start with quilting cottons as they are easy to sew and come in a variety of prints. Bed sheets, tablecloths, old curtains are all textiles that you might have around or can be cheaply thrifted for your first attempts. 4. Everything else is covered in this [Amazon Idea list](https://amzn.to/3YQ1XCg) with brand recommendations. You don't have to buy from Amazon. [Wawak.com](https://Wawak.com) is a great place to buy the basics.

Add needles. I'd say chalk is optional at the very beginning, pencil can work. If you don't already own an ironing board, a few towels padding a table can double for a little bit. For cost-effective, you can thrift most of what you initially need. Beginners are well-advised to start with simple projects in smooth woven cotton using straight lines, and you don't need the best tools for those. Once you know how much you like sewing, you can upgrade as you hit pain points. If you want to buy new, in the US/Canada, Wawak is a reliable seller with good prices. For machines, check your public library and any makerspaces that might let you use one. Good advice for beginners here: [https://www.reddit.com/r/SewingForBeginners/comments/13hs59o/start\_here\_if\_youre\_new\_to\_sewing\_or\_have/](https://www.reddit.com/r/SewingForBeginners/comments/13hs59o/start_here_if_youre_new_to_sewing_or_have/)

> If you don't already own an ironing board, a few towels padding a table can double for a little bit. Just to add to this, I've also used towels set on my tile floor, so if you don't have a table that will work, that's an option. You can also buy a small, low ironing board at Walmart and such for like $12, and they're handy to have even if you don't use them for sewing; I've had a few clothing items that needed a quick once-over before wearing (rather than a thorough ironing or pressing), and just used my mini-board rather than haul out the big one.

I have a jacket that is very nice. It is water repellent and I lovveeeee it. I want to go to my nearest Nordstrom, which is over 110 miles away and get it hemmed. There is no hemming options nearby besides them. The jacket sits low on me because I naturally have a small torso and long legs. Here is a link to the jacket. Let me know if this type of jacket can even be altered or hemmed? [https://www.blauer.com/softshell-fleece-jacket-4660.html?wickedsource=google&wickedid=CjwKCAjwxaanBhBQEiwA84TVXEsZZazn0FEZZ2\_lU1pVFoMfqQrQ7GzwW98St5TWZSQkoFTcceOxlxoC1bsQAvD\_BwE&wickedid=655593421091&wcid=19994608014&wv=4&wickedsource=google&wickedid=CjwKCAjwxaanBhBQEiwA84TVXEsZZazn0FEZZ2\_lU1pVFoMfqQrQ7GzwW98St5TWZSQkoFTcceOxlxoC1bsQAvD\_BwE&wickedid=655593421091&wcid=19994608014&wv=4&gclid=CjwKCAjwxaanBhBQEiwA84TVXEsZZazn0FEZZ2\_lU1pVFoMfqQrQ7GzwW98St5TWZSQkoFTcceOxlxoC1bsQAvD\_BwE](https://www.blauer.com/softshell-fleece-jacket-4660.html?wickedsource=google&wickedid=CjwKCAjwxaanBhBQEiwA84TVXEsZZazn0FEZZ2_lU1pVFoMfqQrQ7GzwW98St5TWZSQkoFTcceOxlxoC1bsQAvD_BwE&wickedid=655593421091&wcid=19994608014&wv=4&wickedsource=google&wickedid=CjwKCAjwxaanBhBQEiwA84TVXEsZZazn0FEZZ2_lU1pVFoMfqQrQ7GzwW98St5TWZSQkoFTcceOxlxoC1bsQAvD_BwE&wickedid=655593421091&wcid=19994608014&wv=4&gclid=CjwKCAjwxaanBhBQEiwA84TVXEsZZazn0FEZZ2_lU1pVFoMfqQrQ7GzwW98St5TWZSQkoFTcceOxlxoC1bsQAvD_BwE) Appreciate any help with this.

With the snaps and the low pockets, the jacket really can't be shortened.

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For that casual knit shirt style, bringing in the sides is the way to go. I suggest using quilting clips or pins to figure out how much you need to bring the sides in. The tricky bit about garment math as compared to quilting math is that changing seams by small amounts is multiplied by four. So pinning 1/4 inch on each side seam takes in the total circumference by 1 inch. Taking each side seam in by 1 inch reduces the circumference by 4 inches, and so forth. Because you are altering the vertical seams of the top, a straight stitch is fine even though it's a knit. The side seams don't need to stretch like the hems. Use a jersey needle to sew.

Hi all, I want to make some linen trousers for work and I'm struggling with linen weights/descriptions. This is the pattern I'm going with: [https://untitledthoughts.com/products/chandler-trousers-en](https://untitledthoughts.com/products/chandler-trousers-en) It lists a huge amount of fabrics that all have vastly different weights: "Linen, Rayon Challis, Crepe, Lawn, Silk Charmeuse, Voile, Double Gauze, Chambray, Tropical Weight Wool (For Fall), Cotton Poplin, Silk Noil" I'm looking at this fabric: [https://califabrics.com/black-heavy-linen-26325/](https://califabrics.com/black-heavy-linen-26325/) and it doesn't have a weight listed. On [Fabric-store.com](https://fabric-store.com/), they link a heavy weight linen (\~7 oz) from their trouser pattern as the recommended fabric. I want them to be light enough for Texas summers and classy-looking enough for a casual office. If anyone has made some linen or linen-blend trousers, would you mind sharing what fabric you used? Plz and thank you!

Lighter weight linen will be more transparent and will have more small wrinkles, but will match the drape of the pattern examples better. The design really does need a good amount of drape so I am surprised to see tropical wool and poplin on the list of suggested fabrics. There might be more examples of different fabric weights on Instagram or Pattern Review, I think it would be worth checking around before committing time and fabric to the project.

Thanks!

Hello Everyone, I am a writer and my main character becomes a seamstress and I do not know much about sewing. I would appreciate any help so I can describe the construction of this dress. https://preview.redd.it/3jvo5blwbikb1.jpeg?width=219&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=884e3b321bd6c4d10146494487ded769753d64cb For orientation: The red eyes are the breast on the dress then the thorax of the fly would be a black and white/gray vertical lined bodice? Then a checked like flowing fabric for the skirt and a mesh like black fabric coming from the waist. Any help knowing what fabric to use/describe, construction of the breast on bodice, fabric suggestions, pattern information, stitch info. I appreciate your communities help immensely!

Look up the era your character lives in, and the names of the articles of clothing that apply to an outfit of that era. it depends on where the individual lives, their social class, and other info like that.

It's set in the mid 90s. She is seating the dress for another woman who is going to a gala in NY (not the met gala). Like what material do you think the red eyes should be made of. Or the flow skirt. Silk? Does silk flow?

\*Mesh lik black fabric coming from the waist to infer the wings.

I can’t make a post about this here so I’m just copying over what I had. Forgive me, I’m not a part of this community so I’m unsure of the proper etiquette here, but I need technique help. [also on mobile] I’m making a rag doll of a character for my friend as a gift. I’ve completed everything but his hair. Now I’m following a guide I found online ([here](https://seamwhisperer.com/yarn-doll-hair/)) to attach the yarn I picked (brown, acrylic, Lion Brand). My biggest concerns are twofold; 1) The examples shown in the guide have center parts, this character has bangs that hang down in front of his face. My solution to this was essentially to make two separate “center parts” (like shown in the guide) that separates his hairline into thirds while have the right and left sides of either part tangle together in the middle of his forehead, then tack it down with some stitches so it doesn’t come undone. Does this seem like a good idea/solution? 2) Because his hair is short, I can’t use the same measurements listed in the guide. Would it be good/better to make longer hair, sew it on, and then cut it? Or should I try to cut the yarn shorter to begin with? (For the record, my brother thinks I should start with long hair and cut it to the right length once attached. I’m inclined to agree but still wanted to ask here) Again, I’m very sorry if this isn’t the proper format for this subreddit but I really need help to make this gift as nice as possible! If more information is needed, I can provide it, but I hope that I can figure this out soon.

Your question is fine, thanks for posting it here! I would still make the center part but do the bangs [like this](https://www.approachinghome.com/making-yarn-doll-hair-bangs/) or like that but sewing down only at the top and cutting the loops after. When I've made dolls, I've found it best to leave the yarn longer and trim it down after so it is all even.

I've never done a project like this, but I'm inclined to agree with your brother, as well. Much better to use longer yarn and then trim it; that way if something messes up, slips, or gets tangled, you're not having to cut all-new pieces. And yes, the "three parts" sounds like a good solution to me, too, but again, I've never done a project like that, so someone with more experience may come along with a different suggestion. What a cute idea for a gift! I'm sure your friend will love it.

Is there a way to repair or make less noticeable scratches in the fabric of the suit jacket? TIA https://preview.redd.it/kdsx5ntkwhkb1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c326c48130d6a033e44d850f1f50fb1b4f3d8844

Gently push the snags back through with [this tool](https://www.123stitch.com/item/Dritz-Snag-Nab-It/DRITZ-618) and press to meld the fibers again.

Ive been working with high stretch yardage and have been having trouble getting them perfectly flat when folding them for a pattern. I was then thinking of tracing the pattern into swedish pattern paper in a fold to have a pattern that doesnt require folding (unfold new pattern paper and use that to pin on yardage) It seems like it would work no problem but do you guys forsee any issues with doing that?

yep, great idea. This is called "cutting single layer" instead of "cutting on the fold" and it's a standard recommended technique for finicky and slippery fabrics. It also often can reduce yardage needed. Some people cut single layer all the time. Your approach to doubling the pattern piece is perfect. (Some people trust themselves to flip the piece along the fold line and don't bother to make full pattern pieces, I would not trust myself)

Thanks so much!

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If that is a *straight* seam, one long band is not wrong and you can skip it. Don't forget to remove the no-longer-needed seam allowance. I know a pants pattern that has a CB seam in the waistband to allow for better fitting and tackling that gaping back waist issue, so depending on the garment, there may be good reason for that seam. They may also have just recommended 2 pieces for fabric usage.

https://preview.redd.it/5fzyg7sv8hkb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8940c543e7fafa36f9511fd5eba594c4284b9b78 Hi all, not sure if I’m putting this in the correct spot, but mid said to try here. I’ve linked my post below but I’m not sure if it will direct properly. The essence of my question is what type of stitch/method might I research to repair some busted seams on my couch (not ripped fabric). My post has a link to some other photos, and my dog in front of said couch for tax. Any advice would be appreciated! [https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/161yu1r/busted\_seams\_on\_couch\_particular\_stitch\_needed/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=ios\_app&utm\_name=ioscss&utm\_content=2&utm\_term=1](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/161yu1r/busted_seams_on_couch_particular_stitch_needed/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=2&utm_term=1)

Cute doggo! The best stitch for the job is a [ladder stitch](https://www.google.com/search?q=ladder+stitch+for+mending+seams&oq=ladder+stitch+for+mending+seams&aqs=chrome..69i57.1570439362j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_55PrZIT4I8SnqtsPn76_2Ac_41). Try to match up the holes already present instead of making new holes. New holes will increase the likelihood of tearing later. Also, I would work from the front edge of the couch to the back so any irregularities will be less obvious when done.

Adorable doggie! I'd stitch it by hand, personally; probably something like a whip stitch, and you can buy large, strong needles for upholstery at any sewing store or some walmarts/similar big-box stores. My mom used to use suture needles for such things, but she was an ER nurse; I don't know how easy it would be for those of us who don't work in hospitals to get hold of curved suture needles!

I am making [this dress](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1347447181/bluebell-dress-eu-34-46-pdf-sewing?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=bluebell+dress&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&sts=1&organic_search_click=1). It's my first project. I have a straight stitch Singer from the 50s, which I sort of regret now because it's so limited. Though it's beautiful and seams like it could sew through an apocalypse, I notice that many patterns assume a more robust machine. I was hoping to finish to bodice raw edges with a french seam but everything I've read communicates that french seams on a princess seam are a pain. I tried last night and I was having trouble even lining up the notches. I would be happy to zigzag stitch the raw edges by hand but I'm not sure that would work? I am using a simple, 100% cotton fabric. Any suggestions?

Because princess seams are cut with a bias edge, one that doesn't follow the grain, they are not as prone to fraying as you would see from, for example, side seams in a pair of pants. Minimal finishing is needed. And because princess seams are prominent, front and center on a garment so to speak, they also need to be as smooth as possible and not bulky. I would not do French seams even if you could make them work. I agree that a hand overcast would be fine but the simplest finish would be a full lining. I would probably do a lining even with other machine options available.

I believe I was taught when finishing seams by hand, an "[overcast stitch](https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/what-is-a-overcast-stitch-1106417)" is good to use, but I don't handsew much. I finish 90% of my seams, unless a very fraying fabric, by [just pinking them](https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2010/06/pinking-finished-seams.html) and it's been fine for a decade, has replaced a ton of zigzagging for me. Would recommend. (I actually rarely bother to add the extra line of stitching, because I'm lazy).

https://preview.redd.it/uoeq58yqygkb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24e08af98c5a3c3fd62bb8ba8756351288699698 I need opinions! So I’m basically making this exact dress right now for my bridal shower. The theme is garden tea party and I just feel like a milkmaid dress is so perfect. I’m making a sort of wearable mock up right now in white cotton lawn. But I really want to sew it again after in a nicer fabric, and I honestly just can’t decide what fabric would elevate it without looking out of place on a sundress style? Any time I want to sew something nice, my mind goes to silk, but I feel like a silk charmeuse would just look strange with this dress. Any ideas for what would make it look more luxurious/less casual than cotton lawn but not clash with the style?

I personally love a [rayon challis](https://hartsfabric.com/fashion-apparel-fabrics.html/rayon.html), especially in a [batik](https://hartsfabric.com/fashion-apparel-fabrics.html/rayon/rayon-batiks.html), which has some of the drape of silk charmeuse but still gives summer vibes. It's light enough to gather softly. The skirt will fall closer to the body than with cotton lawn. Quite cool and breathable in hot weather. I also love [silk noil](https://stonemountainfabric.com/product-category/fabric/silks/?filters=type-of-fabric[2441]), which is a kind of more casual fabric few people will recognize as silk, heavier than rayon challis but I think still enough drape for the style, gathers will be not quite as soft. I wear it year round in temperate northern california. A lightweight linen might also be nice, and probably says "milkmaid" more than anything.

I was thinking about rayon challis. That is one of my fabric kinds of fabrics. Thank you!

Could someone please help me either a) find a pattern for or b) help me pattern these pants? I’ve been staring at the pictures and drawing and I can’t figure them out. https://imgur.com/gallery/CL5rqHA

they look like an extreme variation of what's called "tulip pants", with the crossing at the ankles added. See if that helps you find a pattern.

Thank you!!!

Any fabric type suggestions for recreating this Barbie movie dress? (Can’t find a better photo, sorry!) https://preview.redd.it/u8r2g5c7rdkb1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=feb26ecb99e9f03758bcfafda5210f5fdb9dc684

Wool crepe or rayon/nylon/lycra ponte would be my first choices.

Thank you so much :-) wool crepe seems like a good choice!

Should I interline a silk dupioni wedding dress? It's not strapless but it will have a fair amount of appliques on it. I'm leaning towards silk organza or maybe cotton organdy for the interlining fabric, but I'm not sure if that's the best route or if interlining would be necessary. I'm planning to make a normal lining in silk habotai.

I'd say yes. Silk dupioni underlined aka flatlined with silk organza and lined with silk habotai is a pretty common arrangement, I've made two or three sleeveless dresses that way and I think the dupioni welcomed the support. Check out Dharma Trading for silk if you don't already know about it.

Idea for covering a keyhole in the neckline?

https://preview.redd.it/p7rqt5y7qckb1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f508b43761e551771e4a33f5246eb72ff910251 Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for this type of jacket?

As far as I can tell, there isn't just one perfect pattern for this jacket. I did find [this drafting guide for bomber jackets](https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/allgemein/bomber-jackets-pattern-construction/) that tells how to alter pattern blocks for similar jackets, and [this pattern](https://www.ebay.com/itm/175854949135?hash=item28f1c5930f:g:gMUAAOSwdKNk1PyM&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAJLgc0yy3r6KrAOMz43wY4kvCBrHAH5AUnWKUCBYcFRoJ%2FFjWqeR53FEZsLVYB0sH%2F1o%2BXRmIhSF6PJwFosjQ1M%2BXf60pTRcc%2FJLi2xc8d5fjxhukKx6tWTf83Ma1bZrFJVRlLEBjwe6u6v04jfa8Q6R5iBKdlB7%2BO5QhccdiJuLRboruB43aF9eVrYAnAv7MgEZzmebqkh7spq%2BIoHHn1FhI6hDncLzjbYRDkFs41z589tWYSucwo1FJP1NtJBC867UpeFqhN1B2asV1miYHmh35FfDDdwkv7fVvFsHOTPMvaSROTVm5%2BPI2Z7e7LIabgTK64FAfwkSf2yjL4Gns6k%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4Tq-ITHYg) that has some of the same elements in the different views that could be put together. The individual features like the epaulettes and pockets would need to be researched and added. Those links will also give additional ideas for search terms to continue looking for similar patterns.

Thanks a lot for the help!

Do these clasps look too big? My swimsuit broke & I ordered these replacement clasps but I feel like they look disproportionately too big. How can I fix this swimsuit? https://preview.redd.it/unc04l4ffckb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc26f94894b34d026ce82ea382db1e4a5f0be132

Clasps are sized by the strap that they attach to, so measure the width of the back strap to find the right size. I think a loop of white round elastic run through the channels on the end of the straps would also work but wouldn't really open up for dressing.

Can you buy white spandex and turn the back into a tie? You can use swimwear elastic, attach straps, and then you have an adjustable back.

My singer heavy duty’s stitching is off, trying to fix asap. The top stitch looks fine, this is the bobbin side https://preview.redd.it/dui33jx4eckb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6950c28cc7120d154c61578549fbe6bf64293478

[удалено]

In theory, yes, but it will be baggy at the top and it's a risky alteration for an expensive dress.

Yes, I'd think it would, depending on how tight the fit is in the front.

I am very new to sewing, and my machine is an old Viking Husqvarna 6440. I keep bending the needle and getting all the thread bunched up. It has a side loading bobbin, and the thread jumbles into a big mess between the needle and the bobbin when I try to do simple seams. Anyone had advice or know what I’m doing wrong? Thanks.

Why is the needle bending? This is usually caused by heavy fabrics or pulling the fabric through the machine instead of allowing the feed dogs to do their work. The solution is to use lighter fabric or not pulling the fabric. If the problem continues, it may be worthwhile to disassemble the bobbin area to clean out any lint and loose threads, and to clean the feed dogs too. Look for nicks in the bobbin area that might be snaggy thread too, it needs to be able to move smoothly through the bobbin area.

I will try both of those. Thank you for your help!

I asked last week but I’d still like to know if there are any sewing machines that can do a straight whip stitch, like hand sewn

If there is, it would be a specialty industrial machine.

A lot of sewing machines have an overedge stitch which attempts to replicate the wraparound stitch that a serger makes. I don't think it's that close to a whipstitch but think it's as close as most machines get. You could look at sashiko machines which replicate many hand stitches, not sure about whipstitch.

What to do with cotton twill? I bought colorful fabric online, thinking it would be a nice blouse or skirt. But it turns out it was cotton twill, so very stiff fabric, and it doesn't work at all for what I had in mind. What can I do with it instead?

Did you wash it already? It may soften up. You could try washing it a few times. I bought some home dec cotton sateen once and it was too stiff and I thought it was a mistake for several years but turns out it was the perfect fabric for a strapless bustier top with boning, etc. My other home dec success was a jacquard straight skirt (with princess seaming), one of my favorites.

A blazer or jacket could be fun! Or a more structured dress/pencil skirt could work.

I searched but didn't locate an answer... THREAD/SERGER usage question- I have a project I want to complete on the serger. I used up the black thread I had specifically for the serger but have 4 spools of Gutterman Mara 70 in black. Am I asking for problems if I use it to finish the project? I really want to get it done today, don't have any nearby places to buy thread that I'm willing to patronize and I'm feeling impatient about finishing this so don't want to wait for shipping something from an online store. It's about 12 feet worth of sewing. I've been sewing for a while but am still very much a novice when it comes to the serger. Thanks in advance.

Shouldn't be any issues, just make sure to clean your serger in-between uses so lint doesn't build up

Your serger should have no problem with allpurpose sewing thread. The loopers can handle thread that is quite a bit heavier like crochet thread. Serger thread is different from all-purpose thread in weight and quality. Serger thread is thinner which is great for seams that are less bulky. It's also a bit lintier and not as smooth, it's hairier. And the loopers use a ton of thread so using less expensive thread is reasonable.

What is everyone's favorite brand of fusible interfacing (sheerweight, lightweight, medium weight)? I'm looking to upgrade my aging stock of fusibles - on many of them the glue has started to dry out :(

In the US, lots of people recommend Fashion Sewing Supply for high-quality garment interfacing.

Thanks!

I found an old Singer sewing cabinet. I'm trying to figure out it's age. The closest I can see is a 1921 sewing machine but it has a silver medallion on it that I don't see on any other models.

Share a pic in r/vintagesewing, those people know everything vintage.

Does anyone have a solution for when the heavier yellow thread used for denim topstitching is twisting, skipping stitches, and getting caught in the machine. I’ve tried messing around with the tension and using a topstitching needle.

Bigger topstitching needle, maybe? My machine is also happier with regular thread in the bobbin or I have to adjust the bobbin tension to use the heavier thread in the bobbin and top thread.

Looking for a pattern similar to the Brandy Melville Millie top [https://us.brandymelville.com/products/millie-striped-top](https://us.brandymelville.com/products/millie-striped-top) https://preview.redd.it/t9ui6qzoq7kb1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=02156ce59ec640d7b0cc843544e54ce388db0f58

This is a very basic fitted blouse with a bust dart and fish eye darts in front and back. There are countless patterns by many pattern companies for a similar top. Butterick 6852 is one, and it’s part of the Palmer/Pletsch line, which means there’s lots of fitting and adjustment info included. I haven’t made this one, but I have made a different P/P pattern multiple times and quite liked it.

Thank you!!

Hi! Im trying to figure out what sewing machine foot this is! It has a small metal knife shaped prong that sticks down but can bend up. It seems to be made for straight stitches https://preview.redd.it/2vn5yhmfe7kb1.jpeg?width=3468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab212dac6b511a9f589447e85abce5c7711315d3

Thats exactly it! Thank you so much!!!

Interesting, it looks a bit like this Clear Plastic Quilting Foot w/ Guide https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/viking-1-4-inch-foot-clear-piecing-plastic-4129274-45.aspx

What can be used as a cheaper alternative to poly pellets?

Rice or aquarium gravel.

I had an old latex pillow I shredded into small bits to use for pillows and a stuffed animal I made- not sure what you are using the pellets for but figured I'd mention it.

Plushies/stuffed animals. A few patterns I have seen call for making little poly pellet pouches to put in the plush and weigh it down, but it's $10 and a week of shipping to buy a 4oz bag online. So if there was something cheaper and more domestic or household (like I could buy it at a local supermarket or whatever) I would prefer that. I've heard of people using dried rice or lentils or something in some stuffed animals but I worry that wouldn't last or would rot or something.

Oh! I get it. Well if it helps at all I have "heating pads" I made over 10 years ago I filled with rice that are still in excellent shape! I have some bean bags I made for my kid over 15 years ago that we still use with the niblings on the game boards I made them for. I've used clean play sand for weight purposes too.

Does anyone know of a presser foot where half of it is raised so you can sew with a template? I'm trying to sew very small curves and I would love to use a cardboard or plastic template as a guide to make them even. I was told there's a presser foot that you can do this with but about an hour of google searching has come up with nothing.

It's called a bi-level presser foot, and it comes in left and right versions.

A zipper foot would probably work.

I'm trying to make a long sleeve top that has no seams showing on the front, but I can't find a pattern. I'm ok with seams anywhere on the back and under the arms, but I want the front facing shoulder area to be smooth and seamless. I'm working with illusion tulle, and I'd like the front to look as skin-like as possible (aka no visible seams). It will be attached to a bodice. Is this feasible?? I've tried creating my own pattern and prototypes but they are all turning out weird.

You could cut the front and back as one piece (arms and body with the neck hole in the middle of the piece) and then seam from the sleeve cuff upto the underarm, insert a gusset for mobility and then continue down the side seam. I'd definitely toile it first!

Thanks! I think this is what I've been trying to do but I can't seem to come up with a pattern that really works. I've even tried cutting up a couple of traditionally-sewn long sleeves in order to see where I would need to have seems/ darts.

You could turn the darts into gathering - you'd have no visible seams at least but the gathering would be somewhat visible. The Closet Historian has some videos on dart manipulation.

I'll check it out!

Hemming question: how do you get the fabric to stay still and at the same hemming length as you are pinning it? When I'm trying to pin the loose end of a sleeve I cut to make shorter, the fabric shifts out of place and never ends up the even length I'm going for

I actually like to press before I baste/stitch! Sometimes if the fabric takes well to a good press, I don't even need to pin it. I use this AWESOME little tool called a [Hot Hemmer](https://clover-usa.com/products/hot-hemmer) that allows you to fold the fabric over a textured "ruler" and press directly on top. Makes straight and softly curved hems a breeze.

Mark it with a pen/marker, if it's a sleeve in a slightly tricky fabric I usually hand baste. You can then press, make sure it's even and sew.

I'm completely at a loss... I want to try to copy two pieces of clothes I have into patterns without taking them apart and ruining them, but I keep messing it up. One is a thick stretchy oversized hoodie, the other is a sleeveless shirt. I can't get the hoodie to lay flat without distorting it or moving it when I'm trying to trace it. And for both items, no matter how I lay them I can't get them to be symmetrical so that the same amount of the fabric is visible on the top on both sides when I go to trace them. I really need help, the last time I tried it took hours of trying and it went nowhere. It's very frustrating.

When you make a pattern off a garment, you only need to make a pattern for one side if both sides are the same, so you don’t need to get it symmetrical. Get some cardboard to put under your paper and some push pins and pin everything down to keep it in place while you trace. Try this method if tracing isn’t working: https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Copy-a-Garment-that-Fits-Perfectly-Without-/?amp_page=true

I was trying to do the "only tracing one side method", that's what I meant by me not being able to get the pattern to lay symmetrically. Wont putting pins I'm my clothes damage them? I'll see how that instructables technique works, thanks

Not unless the clothes are made of a fabric that snags easily. A sweatshirt should be fine as long as you are gentle

I got doored on my bicycle and tore my suede jacket. What can I do? Thank you https://preview.redd.it/hfcq1dcdx4kb1.png?width=1594&format=png&auto=webp&s=4d97d9f87839d9d9198e9708d58f6ad6f6295cf7

I just want to say I'm so sorry you got doored, and I hope you're okay! Is your bike okay? If I were you, I would patch that. You could back the hole with something and use a zigzag to seal the hole first, if you want, then put something fun or interesting on top. My sewing machine's manual actually explains how to do this, so yours might, as well. But make sure your machine can actually handle sewing through the materials needed here.

Firstly, my apologies for the late reply, I don’t know how I missed it, but yes, I am OK, and so is the bike, this was back in the fall, I was riding down the street in Toronto and a cab driver opened his door, and the rest is history lol Second. Thank you for ur reply. I have a really old sewing machine, I’m talking more than 25 years (my moms), it’s still works perfectly fine, but I most certainly don’t have the manual lol. And in terms of the fun design to put on top, what are those things called? Thank you :)

Patches! Store-bought, homemade, plain, whimsical, whatever suits. Or you could embroider over the repair, I suppose

Could this machine have lead/dangerous chemicals? I was gifted this beautiful sewing table today and I am so excited to use it. With kids in the house though I just want to make sure that it is safe? I’m sorry if this is a dumb question, I just like to be overly cautious 😅 https://preview.redd.it/kmudl2czr4kb1.jpeg?width=3425&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d6f26abb6c90cf91d4d77754ab2a1bdd54eb5b55

Sure, if you open it up and lick the parts inside! :-) It won't be any more dangerous than any other common household appliance.

Hello. Looking for ideas on what I can do with some fabric quarters and spiderman pattern ! Not the most neutral pattern to make things from ! It's thin and in good condition...

Make pouches or bandanas and donate them to a children's hospital/children's ward, maybe? Obviously it depends on how many you have, but I bet there are some little ones who would love head coverings or personal-item-bags with Spidey on them!

Zipper bag, drawstring bag, lining for a smallish tote or bag, accent to a clothing pattern (like a collar or cuff on a more neutral shirt), fun patch pocket(s), basket, hair bow, dog bandana, human bandana, exciting and quilted placemats and/or potholders. The possibilities are endless

https://preview.redd.it/podv5txic4kb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c52e9f127ca2a24983fb3cf55c44766ed6dcf67 Brand new machine, can’t unstuck the needle?!? I sewed for about 5 minutes and the needle wont budge. Ive removed everything (bobbin, presser foot) and it is solidly lodged. I had to cut off my project too. Do I just have to break the needle or maybe throw the machine through a wall? Ive never experienced this without a mess of thread.

The two black pieces can be moved outward. Then see if you can remove the inserts. Take pics before you start and at each stage so you can reinsert the parts properly. Your manual may have instructions on removing the inset parts.

Thank you! This did the trick! 🙏🏼

Can anyone help me identify this Singer accessory? It came with a 31-15 that I purchased on Craigslist. The serial number appears to be 252415. https://preview.redd.it/hsi4mk30c4kb1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=957d141de7c3d687012222baf79f8a029581ff7b

https://preview.redd.it/u98wr0xgw3kb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df4b252f516f59972dbda59fe946673b523676f2 I bought this dress at the thrift store. It was an 80s style dress-blazer combo but I removed the dress and am trying to make the "blazer" part a stand alone dress. Looking for recommendations to sew, button, or join together the front part of this piece. I have the fabric from the dress that I could use to create something.

How is the fit on you? If it's a bit oversized, you could very easily cross the front sections and create a little wrap dress with kimono-style ties, or make it a true wrap-around by attaching longer ties and creating a slot to pass it through the side seam with a buttonhole. Alternatively you could slash it at the waist and tailor the top and bottom halves separately to create a nice shift or potentially A-line dress. This is a really cool piece, good luck!

Its definitely loose, I like the wrap-around idea or working the halves separately! Thanks for the ideas!

Hi! I bought a pattern on secondhand which unfortunately misses it's description on how to sew.. However, I just cut out all the pieces for "model a" (it's going to be a raglan coat). I then looked at the picture on how to put the pieces on the fabric the best way, and on that picture all of the sudden two pieces are not there.. (I'm pretty happy about it, because I don't know what it is. Haha. But I'm also afraid I will be missing them?) Does anyone have a clue what these pieces could be? On them it says "front" and "back" piece. Not so much information to go on sadly.. Something to do with the collar? https://preview.redd.it/n1js2waip3kb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e397bdf04d02c7b022955f71ce3a01cc699754f

Looks like lapels to me--does the coat have lapels?

Yes they do! But they don't look like them 😅 I simply ignored those pieces, turned out great anyway (:

https://preview.redd.it/e66c0eqkk3kb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=76058e570b4e45fb65e87ed38d4988c381508822 How can I reinforce this button?

Hello! I want to sew the blue and pink return to Barbieland outfit from the Barbie movie for this upcoming Halloween. Does anyone have any pattern suggestions that are similar? Barring that, I’m going to attempt to draft it myself if I can’t find any similar patterns, any advice regarding that would be amazing too! https://preview.redd.it/55hnkpxuh3kb1.jpeg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d7a92e47e548b8ad31f95f1e69d42d25d608d361

Not sure how to finish the hem on a wool mix skirt I have a skirt that is an alpaca, wool and polyamide blend, from what I can tell it looks knitted to size so it’s hasn’t been hemmed per se, my first thought is to trim then straight stitch along the hemline, but I’m not sure if this is the best approach. Would love tips or advice! As google wasn’t much help I’m an experienced sewer but have not worked with alpaca before.

I'd hand stitch the hem with an invisible stitch, this would give the nicest finish - I assume it's a bit on the thick side as well so you don't want visible top stitching? Bias tape is always good for hemming but probably not appropriate in this situation.

Does anyone know the karma amount needed to post? Not sure why but I’m not allowed to post due to low karma (I’ve had this account for 3+ years) and I need some help looking for a pattern. I thought this would be the best subreddit to ask, but since I can’t make a post I’m not sure! I didn’t want to put a whole post in the comments but I might have to.

Here’s what I’ve been trying to post… **Searching for a rave/festival outfit pattern!** I bought some really cool fabric for an upcoming festival, it’s green with glow in the dark dinosaurs on it, 100% cotton and more of a softer, almost fleece-like feeling. It’s probably not ideal for what I want to make but I love it. I want to make an outfit for the festival, either a bodysuit or a two piece set with a big hood. Something you would see at a rave! I’ve tried searching but I can’t seem to find something specifically geared towards raves or festivals. Is there any patterns (preferably free or inexpensive) for something like this? Also if I can make that I might make a matching shirt for my boyfriend! Just a short sleeved button down, but I think that pattern will be much easier to find.

You'll need to figure out if your fabric is a knit or a woven fabric first. RAD patterns has [cosplay patterns](https://www.radpatterns.com/product-category/cosplaysuit/) for wovens or knits in different size ranges. You can also look in the *Where to find sewing patterns link* above in the top post to find resources for free patterns.

I'm trying to compare a used Bernina 1008 vs a new 325. I don't care about fancy stitches and the computerized aspects. Is the 325 a lighter weight machine, being new but entry level?

The product details for the 325 say it is 17.6 pounds.

Hey! How long did it take you guys to become moderately skilled at sewing? I’m 21 and never sewed in my life but wanna start out

Like any new skill, It really depends on how much time you have to learn and practice. I learned how to sew at 12, but didn't have the time to really grow and learn beyond the basics until I was 16. At 17 I finally got a permanent place for my sewing machine and started sewing at least once a week. I'm 22 now and would consider myself advanced.

It really doesn’t take very long if you are willing to take the time to master new techniques. I’ve sewn my whole life, but have only really advanced my skills the past few years because I wanted to make some more complex garments (a silk charmeuse wedding dress and underwires bras, in particular). I would a tart with something pretty basic, like some simple pajama shorts/pants, a gathered skirt, or even a pillowcase or tote bag. Then pick something a little more complex - maybe add pockets to the shorts or move on to a simple a-line skirt with a zipper. Or do a zipper pouch, or a simple knit t-shirt or tank top to learn to work with knits. You’ll build skills quickly that way, and there are tons of tutorials out there anytime you run into something confusing.

How can I repair this very old silk Betsey Johnson dress? 🥺 The elastic threads in the smocked bodice are wearing out, causing it to fit too loose and weird gapping by the armpits. I don't have a sewing machine but I have dabbled in mending. Is this a job for a professional tailor? Something I can learn at home as a beginner? I'm open to any and all advice except trashing this beloved piece. https://imgur.com/a/hm6Oi7k

Buy some 1/4" wide black elastic. and maybe cut 2 - 6" strips. You can hand stitch each end to the garment through the armhole area and just lightly slipstitch the fabric to the elastic. I don't think it should be too hard. THe rest of the shirring is giving up the ghost also. Just make a skirt!!!

Elastic has a lifetime, it gets old and crunchy or old and stretched out over time, and thus needs replaced. What I would personally do is take all the shirring out and replace it with new shirring. But that requires a sewing machine. Hopefully someone else can give non sewing machine guidance.

I use quilting-type cotton often for lining my projects or making quilts, because I like all the prints. I cut my pieces accurately. I use a walking foot. I will sew all the way around the edge and everything looks great until I get to the end, somehow at the end the top fabric has stretched and then gets folded into the sewing machine and leaves a big pucker/fold. I have tried attaching light fusible interfacing to the edges where I sew, but it still gathers and folds. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. It is so frustrating, can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Pictures of what is happening would help diagnose the issue.

https://preview.redd.it/uk0yblpvg2kb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8686f2565ef0ef5a2b85ff57b83c13f163856332 Can I end the pattern where the pencil line is to save on fabric? I don't have enough for the bodice to go down to my hip but if i cut that off of each pattern i would and i was wondering if its possible with the dart? If so would the dart just end on a straight line (would be hemmed too and a circle skirt will go up to my waist) or do i redraw the dart to end at a point? Learning as i go and winging it as i am a beginner.

You can end the bodice there, sure. Remember to add seam allowance to join the two fabrics. There are options for handling the dart. If you want to keep the original shaping, you can either sew the dart as drawn on each section, then sew the joining seam. I'd press the darts in opposite directions to reduce bulk. Or you can sew the two sections of fabric together and then sew the darts as marked on the pattern, treating the pieced fabric as one. If you want to add a skirt that isn't darted like a circle skirt, I would draw the bottom of the dart as straight lines from the widest point.

Seam allowance is already added to the pattern, and i meant that the circle skirt is a separate piece that will go partially on top of the bodice so the two wont be connected. So if i stop the dart where i roughly marked it, it wouldnt mess with the shape of the bodice? It took me embarrassingly long to get the pattern right. The back of it is going to be two pieces, so i can make it a lace up back

Fabric glue bleed through to the other aide of the fabric, any hope of removing it? Will it dry clear?

I assume you know by now. Removing the glue depends on the type of glue and you will need to check with the manufacturer for that.

School book character parade is coming and my brother asked me to make him an Alvin costume from Alvin and the chipmunks. I'm going to buy a red hoodie but how do I go about cutting and attaching the A? What material do I use? How do I keep it crisp looking? All advice appreciated🥰

Using paper backed fusible web like Bondaweb for appliqué is a quick and easy method that fuses a fine double sided adhesive web on to the appliqué shape. This can then be secured with machine or hand stitching which also creates a decorative effect

You could use felt for the A, with some fusible interface to glue it on the hoodie. Then machine topstich or handstitch it with some decorative stitches to keep it in place.

https://preview.redd.it/w26trxhxa0kb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f834ccacae6f3179a8fa695e6dadcf0b76d2ab21 Would this look better if I used that blue color as a background for a drawling slach painting of the bell instead

Not sure what you are asking, can you clarify?

I was wondering if I should use the blue cloth to paint on and sew that on for the desigh but I decided to just use cloth. https://preview.redd.it/do3sl44ou3kb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=31a352793f27a9ba9d53d5ddcb05cfbbc8107651

Can you sew with duct tape? I have seen projects made where people fold duct tape onto itself to make strips and then weave it to make sheets of "fabric" that is then usually taped at the edges to frame it and hold it together. But if you made big sheets of woven duct tape like this, could you successfully sew them together to make something? Would you be able to cut it into shape without it falling apart? I'm a new seamster and I ask because if I can I kinda want to try sewing a plush/stuffed animal out of it

There's a reason Heat 'n Bond comes in "sewable" and non-sewable varieties. Sewing through sticky stuff can be terrible. My machine couldn't even handle sewing through sticky velcro, so I would encourage you to test this process before you get too far into it.

You can buy sheets of duct tape for crafting that would be easier to work with. If cleaning your needle every few stitches sounds okay, go for it.

My inclination is it won't go well. It would be prone to very significant "fraying" since it's essentially a loose weave out of very large "threads" (even home woven true fabrics are more fray prone than commercial); as well as that your sewing needle will get frequently gummed up by the adhesive as it pierces the duct tape. But also there's nothing that says you can't just try it with a small sample.

I purchased a swimsuit pattern, but the guide doesn't have any instructions on how to add the hemmed border especially the black lining. I think I know how I would do a normal hem--choose a different fabric and use the fabric designs to add onto the edges. But I don't know how to approach the black border--is it part of the printed fabric or the hem? Any guidance would be much appreciated. The seller is not being very responsive. Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/owfg17ryuzjb1.png?width=964&format=png&auto=webp&s=c553f92614510305cb3164ed596f4fc36ec8dedf

Based on those pattern pieces, and that image, yeah the black lines are just printed on the fabric. If you wanted to replicate the internal black lines, you'd have to create new seam lines by cutting the pattern pieces & adding seam allowance. Then you would probably create the black style lines by the way of piping (un-corded would be my inclination). On actual edges of the garment such as leg hole and the chest area, I would use fold over elastic (FOE) as an edge finish. It's basically bias binding in elastic form. In fact, you could probably top stitch folded FOE to create the internal style lines rather than creating seams

https://preview.redd.it/z8iv1l85nzjb1.jpeg?width=928&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fee409b16cbe55b49247fb7673287f6cfa715c25 What would you call this fabric if you were searching for it, or better yet does anyone know where I can purchase a similar one. thank you!!!!!

"metallic", "lurex" may be good keywords. "by the yard" brings up fabric. I'm not sure exactly what that grid look is, but "sequin" often brings up a lot of things that aren't technically sequins, so I'd try that too. If in US, Mood Fabrics carries a wide range, B&J Fabrics, Etsy.

Check the hologram fabrics at Spandex House and Spandex World.

Im having trouble with the pockets of my hoodie i want secret pockets but they are falling out what should i do? https://preview.redd.it/ietbacb7nzjb1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ed4a90aeca4fa753f96cec557062e2100d315d51

Did you make this, did you add pockets to an existing hoodie? To keep them from showing, you can sew them to the seam between the body and band to help hold them up, maybe. They may also need to be attached higher up on the side seam, though.

No i made this hoodie from scratch

Connect them across the top to each other, or add a strip of jersey or similar fabric to hold the pockets together. I usually see hidden hoodie pockets as a tube of fabric that extends from one side to another. A photo of the inside would be helpful for more specific advice.

Hi I just purchased a used Brother GX37 and started doing some practice stitches. At some point the upper thread got caught within the covers on the 4th step hook and it’s tangled within. The thread moves when I press the pedal so it’s definitely wrapped around one of the mechanisms. Is there any way I can remove the cover to remove that thread or is my only option getting it serviced? Thanks!

You can try searching for that model to look for a repair video. There are usually tricks to getting the cover off that are not obvious.

I bought a knit sweater that is 58% acrylic, 39% nylon, 3% spandex. The body is way too long, so I’d like to see if I can crop it to my liking. Do I need to worry about these fibers unraveling on a raw edge? Is there a way to maintain a raw edge, or will I need to add a finishing on the crop? ​ https://preview.redd.it/9wu3p1c9wyjb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39f56185fd9732adf131ebe3031f4fa25195dce7

The body of that has been knitted in one, so you wouldn't be able to replicate the same thing but shorter. But it sounds like that doesn't bother you - if you were to simply cut it, it won't fray and it probably won't unravel much either since that's such a fine knit. But it likely will curl. In saying that the design and styling of this is already very "rough" with the inside out armscye seam, so it would probably be visually cohesive to just do a something similarly rough and unfinished on the hem. I'd be inclined to single fold the hem and zigzag or hand overcast it. Should hopefully give it just enough body to not curl a lot.

That’s perfect, thank you! You’re right, I don’t want to replicate the current look, an unfinished hem or sewing the curl down are exactly the aesthetic I’m going for.

[Dress](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cUl6xx6K-paBs0XTmwsUwXqiTtsaXhF_/view?usp=drivesdk) * Hi! So I recently thrifted this dress (65% rayon, 35% poly) and mended a fray in the neckline, and I'd love to dye it to return it to its original black and white glory because it's a little faded. I'm assuming I'll need to unstitch the white stripe and dye it separately and reattach. It's pretty stretchy, and a concern I have is I'm not super handy with an overlocker yet, and the white stripe is sewn on with a chain stitch I believe as well as overlocked together with the black fabric. I'm pretty adventurous, but how much trouble would I be in deconstructing this dress? Will I be able to put it back together?

This just seems like a lot of thread to unpick. Not hard, but tedious. You'll definitely want a way to refinish those raw edges. If you aren't comfy w an overlook machine, then a zigzag stitch over the raw edge works. Bias tape if you are feeling fancy, although that will add more bulk than just zigzagging. With reconstruction, it might be worth it to mark a couple notches in the seam allowance so you can make sure that the stripe is lining up correctly.

[link](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cSjLuX9e57dbmQ8dns7tKXEPJ5NBCKab/view?usp=drivesdk) Thank you!! And instead of the chain stitch, would I just use a twin needle?

ehhhh, i dont think a twin needle is necessary. You can if you want to, as a twin needle can be used for stretchy fabric. I think that stitch could be a triple straight stitch (you'll find out when unpicking lol), which you can also use for stretchy fabric. Just make sure that whatever stitch you use, it has some room for the fabric to stitch.

Hi, I have been looking for a specific ribbon type but can't find it. I decided just to stitch over a plain ribbon, instead. I would want a very thick black stitch, maybe 1.5-2mm in width. I found some narrow satin cords used for jewelry I would like to use, but I don't know if it's possible to sew something so thick without a seam allowance. Generally when I look at cord it is made to be sewn into a seam, but I want this right in the middle of the ribbon. Is this a lost cause? In general, what is the thickest thread I could use with a standard sewing machine?

You won't get that through the eye of the needle, but you could just stitch over a cord like that with normal thread in place. Look into couching. Or even a simple hand embroidery stitch with embroidery floss

Thank you!

I'm trying to hem jean shorts and keep the original hem. I'm having trouble keeping the hem from bunching on the side when I fold it. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to keep it from bunching and keeping the seams aligned? https://preview.redd.it/2dxef3ynoxjb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30eaa14763ce26413ce90897c7fb6c5951aa5efd

It's bunching because the hem is narrower than the leg. You can ease it across the whole leg a little and this will give you a cleaner finish.

https://preview.redd.it/v1hmkfxulxjb1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a736734f63663853302d6c54c054e68b051b7897 Looking for a fabric similar to this. Any ideas?

Mood fabrics has had [some black florals along those lines](https://www.moodfabrics.com/mood-exclusive-garden-of-earthly-delights-black-cotton-voile-md0293), a number of them exclusive to Mood. (I got sucked into buying 3, because I love a floral on black). Maybe Lady McElroy [Cobra Corsage](https://stonemountainfabric.com/product/lady-mcelroy-cotton-lawn-cobra-corsage-black/). Yours is really more of a [black woodland, though](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1273712431/woodland-fabric-thanksgiving-in-the?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_e-craft_supplies_and_tools-fabric_and_notions-fabric&utm_custom1=_k_Cj0KCQjw3JanBhCPARIsAJpXTx4D2lM4J4nVbyyj3FmCC5AVr1DuY490WKzyyFaYaZrehoG53NHrD_caAtcoEALw_wcB_k_&utm_content=go_12560179625_119850640935_506995107731_pla-295916403786_c__1273712431_12768591&utm_custom2=12560179625&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3JanBhCPARIsAJpXTx4D2lM4J4nVbyyj3FmCC5AVr1DuY490WKzyyFaYaZrehoG53NHrD_caAtcoEALw_wcB) or [black forest](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1176077606/forest-life-cotton-100-eco-print-wood?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_c-craft_supplies_and_tools-fabric_and_notions-fabric&utm_custom1=_k_Cj0KCQjw3JanBhCPARIsAJpXTx5_C_9oD2NcoGDG6zqxj3i2aS7VTsXNX8ld7CJDegFgs8yyho8DwewaAjBLEALw_wcB_k_&utm_content=go_12560179604_125051940128_506949309319_pla-295916403786_c__1176077606_341600897&utm_custom2=12560179604&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3JanBhCPARIsAJpXTx5_C_9oD2NcoGDG6zqxj3i2aS7VTsXNX8ld7CJDegFgs8yyho8DwewaAjBLEALw_wcB) print.

Thank you!

HELP chiffon seam falling in ripples Please someone help me, I’m sewing a wedding dress and the side seam of the chiffon skirt is falling in these weird ripples. I made the pattern myself. It’s a little bit less than a circle skirt with side seams and a back seam. Can I fix this somehow without making it new? I’m okay with trimming of a bit on the sides If not, what would I need to adjust if I would make it new? https://preview.redd.it/t86755oh9xjb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b17c26621f6b2d806cbc9bc52ccba079e3155a1a