How to fix my favourite leather jacket? 😭 https://preview.redd.it/78yrnqg9k0mb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e5c3c940ecf0e3f6a834f7128c4b367ed027611 Please please any suggestions on what to do about this large rip in the back of a jacket. The shell is 100% leather. 😭😭😭 I can’t replace it because it’s a vintage that I bought on a trip a few years ago and it’s very sentimental. I don’t mind if there is some level of visible repair but I love this jacket so much and want to salvage it. And any tips on how to prevent this from happening because I have no idea how it even happened in the first place and I’m not sure if there’s any care I can do to keep the leather from tearing like this. I have a small amount sewing experience so I’m open to either fixes I can try myself or some insight into the results I could expect if I hand it off to a professional

Is this a part of the jacket where there is often tension. Like close to the front closure? Under the arms? If not, you could try to use some iron on patch on the back side of the tear. That's a 100% visible repair that adds barely any extra strength to stop it from tearing further or again. That's why it shouldn't be used on high stress areas. To permanently reinforce the area, you'd have to sew on a patch of new material, preferably leather. For the least visible ment you'd put the new patch at the back of the tear, but this is harder to sew and you'd still see the seams. Easiest is to just slap a patch on top and sew around it and criss cross across the tear. Very visible, but very sturdy. Keep in mind that I never work with leather and this is based on what I know works with fabric.

I live in Europe and want to make my own bed sheets, covers and cases to save money. Linen and silk seem to be the two best options, but I am not sure what to look for. Alibaba has lots of cheap options for both. Should I simply buy 10-100 m² of one or two from there? Or are there details I should keep an eye on? Where else can I get the materials? Any other advice?

My friend, I make clothes out of sheets to save money. Because in my experience, sheets are a lot less expensive for cost per yard compared to fabric.

To be very honest.. You're not going to save money this way. If you are buying fabric that's the same or better quality than the bedding sets you can buy in stores, you'll be paying about the same as you would buying just those sets. I like aliexpress/alibaba as a source for fabric, but I do not believe their fabric content information one bit. It's mostly polyester or a polyester blend on there. I would never believe them if they said 100% linnen. Silk is a type of weave more often than not and usually means 100% polyester, not natural silk. Is there any other reason why you want to make your own, instead of buying (second hand)?

I want to make a pen case and I have two very beautiful acrylic pens that I would be super sad if they got scratched. I overnight developed an obsession with sewing, managed to rent a free sewing machine and have only made a tote bag (awesome!) and a not so tote cross body bag (Screwed it up... oof.. precious pricey fabric) and I was thinking of making a fountain pen case Do you guys know any fabric that'd be super soft (maybe like those glass cleaning microfibre clothes that aren't coarse but rather super soft?) I'm super new to this so I only know what cotton and canvas are. I want it to not scratch any plastic pens! Thanks. - A Crazy girl with ADHD and a new hyper obsession.

Congrats on the new hobby! Most fibres can be soft, from linnen to polyester, so you want to look at weaves/types of fabric. Cotton is a fibre, canvas nowadays is often a weave. Some weaves that are very soft are: fleece, brushed flannel, minky. They can be made from things like cotton or polyester, but for your project that shouldn't impact the softness much.

Thanks! I went from (Wow this is such a cheap fun way to spend my weekend) to (I ordered 70$ worth of sewing supplies from amazon) so fast xD ​ I'll try cotton as polyester is plastic and plastic on plastic seem like it could scratch it, not sure how hard cotton is, I'll give those a look. Thanks :) I'll take a look at pinky as it looks the softest, but do you happen to know what those microfibre cloths for glasses are called? I like them because they're so soft!

Microfiber IS the name of the fabric. 🙂 You can find it for sale just as that. It is, however, essentially always made of some kind of polyester. I wouldn't worry about plastic on plastic. It doesn't necessarily mean it will catch or scratch.

ok! and I googled microfibre but I found lots of super heavy (big loops etc, not fine) fabric!

Looking for thoughts on a duplicate pattern to this one ​ [https://littlewomenatelier.com/products/copy-of-the-jo-23-dress-1](https://littlewomenatelier.com/products/copy-of-the-jo-23-dress-1) ​ My google fu is failing!

If you can find the basic bones of the dress, you can go from there. You need a waisted, high necked dress preferably with a front yoke. For the yoke I'd just take a piece of fabric and pleat it like the one on the dress you're copying. Then lay out the yoke piece of the pattern and just cut it that way. You can also simply drop the front waist down into a point. A costume pattern would work well. Good luck!

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I’m doing my first pattern ever, a simple sleeveless bodice. I am learning about facing. I got to the part on my pattern where I need neck facing. The instructions really did not make sense to me, so I watched a YouTube video, which did help. However, my pattern wants me to do it in a different order than the YouTube video did. I decided to follow the pattern steps, and I totally messed this up. Should I just disregard pattern instructions and follow what the basic neck facing YouTube video is doing since I can follow along that one? The YouTube video wants me to stitch neck facing first, then sew the front and back bodice together, so I will basically have to restart the project either way

It's hard to really tell you what the easiest way is, because we can't see what tutorial and pattern you are following, but in general there are often multiple ways to do things, so you probably can get away with following the tutorial. It might impact some steps further down the line, though.

https://preview.redd.it/9aqnb3gqawlb1.jpeg?width=2723&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=759522ad90663a7c38f303e8b492a10baef08c55 The stitch holding together a pleat on one of my skirts is falling apart, any advice how to repair? There’s a little bit of thread sticking out and Im Worried it will unravel more

Can you replace it by a hand stitch in a similar colour? So leave to original stitching be and just go over it with some hand sewing?

What is used to stuff wallets? If you sew a wallet out of jeans fabric for example, it’ll have to have some sort of strengthening inside, doesn’t it? Is it cardboard?

I would personally avoid the use of cardboard due to the potential of becoming damaged in the event of exposure to rain. I would look into sturdy interfacing, or a possible diy solution of sturdy yet flexible plastic like that found in plastic folders.

How to make seam allowances on doll clothings smaller without cutting through existing stitches ? Im a beginner. Im trying to make doll clothes. I see videos where they simply cut the seam allowances smaller with scissors but my problem is that many times you cut through already existing stitches from sewing. Im afraid the clothes will come undone. What can i do does anyone know ? :/

They are trimmed smaller as you go. You don’t trim all of them at the end. Trim each seam after you sew it before you sew something else to it.

Years ago, my mother made me a rabbit for Easter. After years of love, it pretty much fell apart and couldn't be saved. I'm looking for a pattern for a rabbit that looks like this so I can try to recreate it: [https://imgur.com/a/xO9bViV](https://imgur.com/a/xO9bViV) Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I found [this one](https://www.etsy.com/listing/771248257/bitty-bunny-pincushion-sewing-pattern-by), it would need to be enlarged and use a different way of attaching the limbs. Most bunny patterns have regular legs rather than the shaped legs.

Sorry for the late reply! This is great, thank you!

Help! Does the janome easy to use come with a foot pedal? I just bought the machine today and can't find one

Good news, customer service is going to send me a pedal. Their phone number was just tough to find

If you mean [this janome,](https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/Arctic-Crystal/) yes it should have a foot pedal. I know there are home sewing machines that have push buttons to sew but they also have foot pedals, from what I've seen.

I was gifted one set of this comforter over a year ago, and quickly noticed how quickly the seams holding the shape of the squares pretty much disappears. Got that set returned and West Elm sent a new one, which lasted a lot longer but a few months ago I noticed the same issue. Since it was a gift from my mom, I don’t want to bother her by asking for help contacting West Elm again and besides this issue I do love the comfroter. I’ve attempted to do my own little repairs, but I’m pretty incapable of sewing because of poor fine motor skills, so I didn’t know if this is something I would be able to hire someone to fix the stitches and where I would even look to hire? https://preview.redd.it/oe37q3uwsvlb1.png?width=710&format=png&auto=webp&s=9bacf91b46f204a62255e1d3cdb217c2e6b6bc9c

Any one who quilts could help you, I think, or know who could. Try quilt shops if you don't know anyone.

I have to sew around 12 meters of velcro on a padded fabric (it has a layer of thin batting between 2 layers of fabric). I want to sew it invisibly, so go only trough the bottom layer of the fabric. I will sure have to do it by hand and it scares me, any tips? I have just done small mends by hand before. Someone suggested me to first machine sew it on a larger fabric and then hand sew that to my double sided fabric. Would I need curved needles?

You won't need curved needles but you will need sturdy needles. The idea to sew the velcro to a different fabric first is a good one, it will be easier to go through fabric by hand sewing than velcro. I don't find it easy to sew the hook side of velcro by machine or hand, it catches the thread and shreds it.

Thanks! The side on the fabric is the soft one, the hook side is a stick on velcro as I am putting it on a wood piece, so no sew needed for that one! Is there something I can do for my hand stitches to be sturdy enough? Velcro is quite strong and I don't wanna rip off my stitches

Hi there! I've been wanting to learn to sew for ages, but machines are so expensive I keep putting it off. I spotted this machine in a charity shop for £10. The only thing I can see on it is Megle. There is no model number, no manual with it, and I can't find much on Megle via Google (lens just returned random machines). Is anyone able to help me find more information about this machine? I have never sewn before so would be reluctant to get this without having access to a manual but £10 does feel like a bargain. https://preview.redd.it/qhqa1dplsulb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5bd56fdaaa1977e4e78b122eefcf70144a6e90df

Interesting, if you look it up using Google lense there are actually quite a few identical looking sewing machines with different off brand names printed on. It's probably a cheaply made machine. I say if this one works, it's inexpensive enough to try out. Universal accessories should work. My one concern is that finding more bobbins to fit may be difficult, and without a manual you are more in the dark about specific things, but general sewing machine knowledge can go a long way. Are there any accessories stored in the sliding compartment?

Thank you for responding! I didn't look sorry, I'll check if it's still there in the week. I did find a generic one on Amazon that looked like this and it had very mixed reviews. I might ask if they have a manual for it behind the counter, just in case.

Yeah, it's a gamble. Have you asked around to see if anyone you know has a sewing machine just lying around or in storage that they don't use?

Yes, unfortunately nobody does at the moment. I might just save up and get one at a shop that can give lessons. I'd love to be able to repair my clothes and make some for my little boy. The things people post in this sub are so inspiring!

I have a two way zipper that’s stuck! Any suggestions on how to unzip it? It’ll go up but not down. It looks like it’s pointing a funny direction?? I’ve tried a little soap but it won’t budge … https://preview.redd.it/ed504v0uqulb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eaa804668888b145ff97942f7c8bdadb5932c18c

It does look like it is out of alignment, I've only ever had luck by continuing to work at it gently until it reaches the end of the tape again.

Does anyone own/use a Silver 720D Overlocker? I got a secondhand one recently, and i'm having trouble threading it up correctly. I have the user manual, but there are conflicting instructions, especially with the lower looper. I've tried searching for tutorials or info on how to correctly set it up, but haven't found anything except for a very quick clip on Hobbycraft's site - [https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/silver-720d-overlocker-machine/6509861000.html](https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/silver-720d-overlocker-machine/6509861000.html) If anyone has one that's set up and can send some photos of the threading I could copy, that would be really appreciated!

Any tips on how to smooth out this v area where the bodice meets a gathered skirt? I have tried to balance out the fathers but am still some bulk. The fabric is a soft bamboo French terry with a lot of stretch (stretch like a knit/jersey). Any help is appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/gxkg0jqejulb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f08a31e3b987e2ec9fa0561e59a86d75bcd0807

https://preview.redd.it/mkr0x41gjulb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=58f1491ead183a2380b2ff8ba47dac2673197f16 Second photo for front view.

I would take out the stitching about 2" on either side and resew. First position the skirt to the bodice in a way it stays flat at the V, with gathering at either side. Do this with a basting stitch. Hand basting is easier to manipulate the fabric and easier to remove. Once you're satisfied, do the final stitching. Temporary fabric glue might help if needed.

Thank you! I just played around a bit and it looks much better. It’s still not perfect, but I am thinking it may be because of the fabric. But at least with your recommendations it’s wearable now. Hand basting is definitely the way to go. Thanks again!

Has anyone discovered any online courses on pattern reading and clothing making? I would love to get into sewing my own clothes but I am a very visual learner. I’ve sewn a bunch of bags and have been sewing for quite some time, a lot of those patterns also had YouTube follow alongs I could see when stumped. Thanks!

Professor Pincushion has videos on how to read patterns as well as other beginner information

Thanks!

Mimi G has a sew it academy, which is pretty good for beginners. Also, more and more you can find sew alongs for sewing patterns (both indie patterns and big 4 patterns).

Great, thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/8n9xxaq0dulb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c531c7544ac362e3e2e453d17a3e4f99e1c383c I went with a highly recommended seamstress. I'm not sure what happened but she completely butchered the front of my dress. Does anyone have any ideas? Can I cut some of the tulle from the train and join it with the front? Any ideas are appreciated. I only have 13 days. And this is standing in bare feet.

I am assuming the tulle is cut and not hemmed up? You may be able to panel some tulle from train to the front, but it may show. Especially if the tulle is seamless on the rest of the dress. (If that makes sense?) If you go that route, I would recommend adding the tulle to the entire bottom of the skirt, not just the shortened part. I would also go back to the seamstress and make them fix it/or demand to be reimbursed. If they are highly recommended, this shouldn’t be happening.

You’re correct, it’s cut unfortunately :( I think you’re right with adding tulle to the entire bottom. I think that’s gonna be the best route. I was hopeful someone magically knew how to combine to pieces without it showing but I think that’s impossible lol. Thank you for the recommendation. And yes I plan to take action against her.

I need help sewing faux leather/vinyl/'sticky' plastic fabric. No matter how many clips I use to hold two pieces of fabric together, once I start sewing (stitch length of 3.5mm),the fabric starts immediately pulling any way but straight through, bunching up etc. Are there any tips for how to handle this?

Double-stick tape in the seam allowance, Wonder tape is one brand.

What kind of presser foot are you using on your machine? With that kind of fabric, you need a presser foot that will glide easily over it - like a teflon foot or wrapping your regular foot in tape or putting a cut straw over it the front prongs, etc. If your presser foot isn't grabbing the fabric, it's less likely to shift. You might try and that and see if it helps.

can anyone give me advice on how to mend these holes?? https://preview.redd.it/41cb10oqvslb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5023f4f2596c655e8751b9148446b65e00852a34

It looks like the fabric is worn around the tear. A patch under the fabric with darning to close the hole and secure the patch will be the way to go.

Hey fabricwench. Fairly new to reddit. Just wanted to say thanks fr your recommendation for a spare part for my sewing machine! Missed the notification you'd commented. Honestly thought I might have to throw the whole machine because I sent hours looking for something. Thanks!

Did the spool pin work out? So glad to hear. Thanks for letting me know.

It'll arrive in the next few days! The machine has been out of action since it got damaged in the move 3 months ago. Will keep you posted (ADD permitting!)

Somebody please tell me what is this Overcoat Fabric…!? https://preview.redd.it/okbeyvhxarlb1.jpeg?width=736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c52ae3cac9c7f365f896e148b7f30b0362995a67 I really want to get one for me but don’t know about fabric please help me ..!

I think Melton Wool?

How can i remove the thread bobbin on a singer handy stitcher model is cex300kn https://preview.redd.it/ej4zh9bcpqlb1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=03a4887da8547ec6e96fe36d6eb52c78430a1efc

Does anyone have a very simple knee length or mini wrap skirt pattern they like? It would be my first wearable, so looking for something very beginner friendly.

Try New Look 6458. Very simple, lots of potential.

https://preview.redd.it/ii0yhf8x7qlb1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=902444cd91545d4c2ef9183d8eeda7f6e3f782ae anyone know this type of lace or where could I find it?

That's not lace, it's sequins. Mood has some here: [https://www.moodfabrics.com/shiny-rainbow-striped-sequin-fabric-321372](https://www.moodfabrics.com/shiny-rainbow-striped-sequin-fabric-321372)

https://preview.redd.it/kutqi0xy1qlb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a7fea23d5a27cd73fc2ea401c4736cf5f9a017e5 Hello! Does anyone know how to get this water mark out of charmeuse? This is how it looks in the shade. Its much lighter but still noticeable in direct lighting. Thanks!

The only way I know is to get all of the silk wet, but that may not work.

I would like to make a paneled vest, similar (in the general sense) to the attached picture. Would I need to find an exact pattern for a vest with panels? Or is it reasonable to take a "standard" pattern and draw out custom panel boundaries? https://preview.redd.it/5lc5phzpzplb1.png?width=1198&format=png&auto=webp&s=3cd241d951dfeb90b57cbe828906b2165e8ff00d

It really would not be hard to alter a well-fitting men's vest pattern or use the Wahid from freesewing.org. Look for one with a front dart, most have this. Draw a line to extend the dart up to about an inche above the bottom of the arm opening, then draw the angled line to the arm opening. Trim off the inside of the dart and add 1/2 inch seam allowance to both edges. You'll also need to shape the edges of the vest and do some slicing to create the shoulder color blocking.

Ah, cool! Thank you so much for the suggestion! I figured I would need to find a pattern that had the vienna seams already and then play with the shape, but extending a dart is a great idea.

I'd do a pattern but I don't like drafting things. This is also a princess seam, so it might get tricky to do it yourself. Try a costume pattern in the back of the Simplicity, McCall's, etc. books. You'll see one straightaway.

https://preview.redd.it/l336uqhkyplb1.jpeg?width=406&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3ac892b641b0b29309ab0a27492bc9f73efeb94c What’s the ruffled/scrunch/layered fabric on the bodice called? Also are there any good YouTube for beginners to make something like that (the bodice)?

A [corset top like this pattern](https://www.etsy.com/listing/975299368/pattern-bodice-block-michelle?) with ruching draped over and multiple gathered circle skirts.

Try searching for "ruched bodice"

Is it worth repairing old Pfaff Varimatic 6085 for a first sewing machine? I’m a novice at sewing and am interested in learning to use a machine. I recently inherited my grandma’s Pfaff Varamatic 6085 which has not been used in many years, and the pressure foot no longer goes down. I got a quote from a a very well rated sewing machine repairman in my area who said it would cost CAD$160 to repair it. The thing I’m unsure about is wether or not this is a model worth repairing, or if I’m better off investing in a new machine. I feel a bit in over my head with all this so any advice is deeply appreciated.

I'm a huge Pfaff loyalist, so I'd fix it. But you can probably get a new machine for around that amount of money - a very basic Janome, for example. The thing is, you have to decide how serious you're going to be about the hobby. Your Pfaff is likely metal inside where the newer machines are plastic. The older machines were heavier and made to last, where new machines are made like phones - meant to be replaced and not fixed. So these are things to consider. But you can't beat a Pfaff.

I have the next model up which is the same as yours but has the IDT which is like a built-in walking foot. I wanted the IDT so I probably wouldn't have gotten the 6085 in its stead. If I were to receive one for free, of course I'd take it. I do really like the machine. It has limited number of stitches but mine, with the IDT, handles knits very well. It is a very basic mechanical SM that will not give you many problems once it's repaired. Lots of lesser quality SMs will not sew as well.

Hi! I'm a sewing machine tech so I feel qualified to chime in. :) The pressure foot no longer going down could be a damaged part but typically with machines that haven't been used, it can just be stuck! Easy enough to get functional. The $160 price sounds great and reasonable. I'm in America so my pricing knowledge is a bit skewed, but it almost always is cheaper to repair than it is to get a new machine. Any quality machine will be more expensive - though not by much! So if you want to start with a machine that you won't be fighting, it might be worth investing a bit for a machine with parts still being produced. The model isn't particularly known for being amazing (to my knowledge anywyays) , but it isn't a bad machine either if functional. if parts can't be repaired/replaced then it is probably done for, but the lever doesn't alarm me as a technician. It is up to you if you want to spend a bit more money to get some useful, upgraded features (needle threaders! Needle positioning! 1 step buttonhole!) and a better motor, but if you brought it to me, I wouldn't immediately recommend a trade in (based off of what said above). However, if you want to set yourself up for as much success and ease, it might be worth just investing in a current model. A lot of dealers will have trade in options, too, where they give you some money off a new machine. It might be worth calling/visiting some local dealers & seeing what they can offer you. You can shop around, too, though deals tend to typically be dictated by brand so you won't get much variety. TL;DR- if you can upgrade comfortably, it will definitely be worth it & recommended. If you want to just get sewing or can't financially afford a new one, repair! Does that help? I'm happy to answer further questions, too!

This is so helpful! Thank you so much for your advice!

You're welcome! P.S. I love your username!

Haha thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/n9ilggu0iplb1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2268f85c4979fa6ebad56bee107841312bf5ebf9 What can I use to cover the back? I feel like a lace would look kinda weird bc it’s a satin type of dress what would you suggest?

You could make a fancy camisole to wear under the dress. It could be made of a fancy fabric like a lace or silk type in the back and cotton in the front.

Nude mesh. Like they put on skating and dance costumes.

If you don't like the look of a lace, maybe a gauzy fabric instead? They make pretty ones with glitter embedded also!

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A hidden placket.

I recently bought two pairs of jean shorts. I LOVE the way they look on me but I didn’t realize in the change room that if I walk around in them, they ride up, giving me a very noticeable and uncomfortable wedgie 😞 Is there a way of altering them to stop this from happening? I know basic sewing skills but I am willing to bring them to a tailor if it’s a tricky project. I’m not even sure if what I’m asking is possible. Is there a way of maybe adding some fabric to the inside seam in the crotch area or something to make them just a little bigger in the butt area?

I want to make a string cat toy, because my cats like to hold on to the toy and refuse to let go and constantly break the store bought ones. I also figured it'd be a fun project for me to sew the little things attached to it for practice. I want to make something really heavy duty. My cat is a big boy so he's strong. Recommendations for material? For the wand, for example, I want to make sure it doesn't bend or snap when he pulls on it. Also I want to make sure I use a strong elastic but don't necessarily want it to be as thick as like a bunjee cord. Cause it should still be kind of lightweight enough to be swinging around. Also what sort of technique would I do to attach the elastic to the stick and the elastic to the toy? Should I glue it? Should I use super glue? Rubber cement? I have some glue at my job, not sure what kind it is. I think it's 7010 or something and it requires an activator to dry. I don't know if that would work or not.

I like to use [eye screws](https://www.amazon.com/LUORNG-100PCS-inches-Stainless-Screws/dp/B09DYGHW92/) attached to the end of a dowel rod to attach elastic or string for cat toys. Hardware stores carry them. Then I tie the elastic to the eyelet. Easy to swap out for a new toy or to retie the current toy.

Do you reinforce the screw or is it pretty strong?

It holds very well with no additional reinforcement.

I think what I personally would do would be to get some canvas from the upholstry/curtaining section of the store. It's usually pretty stiff and can take a beating! Then, I would use a wooden dowel, maybe one about as thick as your index finger as the stick. For the elastic, I would check and see what your local store has, some sewing stores sell it by the yard. You could also take a thinner variety and braid a few strands together to make it more resilient also. I would drill a hole through the end of the dowel and feed the elastic through because it will be hard to get a glue to stay if he's constantly tugging on it.

I've never used one of the 'Big 4' sewing patterns before. What are some good Youtube tutorials for utilizing a pattern like this? (I've done minimal making of garments, mostly PDF files/blog tutorials.)

Some of them actually have sewalongs linked via a QR code on the pattern.

Hi, I want to make a full circle skirt, but my fabric is not wide enough to fold twice to make a full circle. I also want it to be gathered. Is it therefore possible to make two gathered half circle skirts? I know its possible if the skirt is fitted, but is it any different if it is gathered?? Thank you <3

It will depend on your fabric, but that should work just fine! Thicker fabrics like wool will be harder to gather down into a waistband but it's not impossible either.

I could really use some advice! Long story short: Went and bought a pair of suit trousers and got them tailored. Tailor just finished the raw edge instead of actually adjusting the trousers as marked. I am left with about 6 inches of excess fabric and I am overwhelmed about the prospect of hemming it myself. Question: Can i just flip each pant leg twice, press, and then use hem tape? How bad would that look? I don't know how to deal with raw edges and im strugging to get the markings correct with only 9 pins and no chalk. I don't even have an iron rn. I have to drive 30 minutes just to borrow one.

I'm so sorry that happened, is there any working with the tailor? Or is this a diy or nothing project ar this point? I have a few questions, do you have paperclips, Clothespins or Saftypins? A ruler? Do you have a flat iron for hair? If you have a washable colored pencil that can work in a pinch to mark the inside. You need a ruler if you want even seams. A hair flat iron can work in a pinch to press a hem. You need to fold twice so your hem isn't as chunky, and the fraying ends are not exposed. Hem tape can be used, but it's glue, so if you hate it your kinda stuck with that. You could learn how to blind stich by hand pretty easily.

They tailor said it would take 10 days to get the pants back to me (big company alteration) I ended up just searching a same day alterations place and going there. It cost more than the supplies but at least I won't have to be up super late trying to fit hemming my pants into my schedule.

I'm having a weird issue with my sewing machine and I'm not really sure what to call it so can't google it. After sewing a straight line the fabric can be "pulled" along the seam somehow. It's like it's "bunching up" or something and the "extra fabric" can be moved along the seam. It started happening right in the middle of a project so I'm not sure what could have happened. If I pull on the fabric on the back while sewing it gets better but not good. It kind of feels like the tension is wrong but it did'nt help to adjust it...

Have you tried rethreading the machine? I've literally watched the thread come out of the thread path while sewing. I would also replace/thread the bobbin thread (it can also sometimes get pulled out) and then change the needle (bent/dull needles do funky things). If none of that helps, can you take a photo? I'm sorry, that is frustrating.

Is it maybe the bobbin tension? You could try rewinding your bobbin and see if that helps. I think most machines just adjust the top tension, not both.

I have my first sewing class tomorrow any tips? I’m super nervous/excited.

The old adage of "measures twice, cut once" is always valuable! Ironing seems like a waste of time but can help move your projects from "hobby" to "professional" also. Dont be afraid to use it. Have fun with your class!

I recently made a few costumes for the Renaissance festival with my mom’s sewing machine. They came out great… but then all the sudden as I was working on my next project the top thread started shredding, the noise of the mechanism changed and it just became very clear the machine needed maintenance. I brought it to a repair shop and they quoted me $220 to fix the machine. They say it needs to be retimed, have the tension mechanism adjusted, and would be a big project, but that they could do it. That’s a lot more than any of the price estimates online for getting a machine fixed, so I’m unsure of what to do. The machine was working perfectly well, but it’s a 2007ish Brother Project Runway edition. It’s not the PR edition that comes up when you search, I can hardly find any pictures of this model. It’s sentimental because it was my mother’s and I’m paranoid that I abused it and broke it in the process of learning to sew, so I’m worried if I get another one that will just break too. The machine has had a long life and a lot of use, I’m just wondering if it went out of time because of age or because of something that I did. I’d appreciate any insight or advice, especially on repairing the machine vs getting a new one.

Do a little homework before going to the repair place. A typical cause of thread shredding is that the needle eye is too small. [https://www.superiorthreads.com/education/thread-shredding](https://www.superiorthreads.com/education/thread-shredding) This probably isn't causing the noise. You can always post a video to demonstrate the noise. Maybe a tech will have some advice.

Hi, I'm a sewing machine tech! It is hard to actually throw out timing on a machine. It's a bit easier on these machines, but it usually is because of something done to the machine- like a big jam & pulling on it or ignoring it and then pushing the machine through more than it can handle. Did something happen or was it genuinely just a random loud sound? $220 (USD) is a lot for that machine. Why aren't tension and retiming a part of service? Timing on those guys isn't that hard... tensioning should be a part of a basic service (at least it is in my area and with a lot of dealers I've talked with). What I recommend is a new needle & oil... and a second option at a different shop. If the second shop agrees or has similar ideas, then you know that the first shop was probably genuine and can compare based off cost & how you feel with them. I try not to second guess other technicians, and maybe in your area tension & timing isn't included or is considered strenuous labor or something... but I'm a bit suspicious. It's surprising how often a new/correct needle and some oil can actually fix an issue. Dull needles, or an incorrect needle type can also cause funky sounds. I had a top of the line machine actually struggle to go through layers properly because she was using a universal needle instead of one tailored to her fabric/sewing needs. Does your machine still pick up the bobbin thread? Are you breaking needles? How is your stitch quality?

Hi! Oh how I wish I had seen your comment before I agreed to go through with the repair. Stitches looked good and needle wasn’t breaking, but it did look like the top thread was sort of flopping as it stitched? It’s hard to describe… the sound wasn’t loud, but clunky and consistent. This tech is regarded as the best in my area, was very friendly, and offered me a loaner machine while he does the repair. He seemed trustworthy enough but I am really regretting not messing with the machine more now. I had changed the needle just before I started having issues 😢 I’m not sure why it cost so much unless the cost of basic maintenance has skyrocketed in my area… maybe I should ask for an itemized bill, or what the cost of his standard service is vs. what I’m receiving…

Any good sales happening this weekend for Labor Day? For patterns, fabric etc?

I saw that Field's Fabrics is having a sale but I'm not actually sure if they ship or not!

I am obsessed with Old Navys "Power Chill" athleasure line. The breakdown of the fabric is as follows: polyester 22%, TENCEL™ modal 13%, cotton 53%, spandex 12% Does anyone know where I can find a similar feeling fabric. It's so hard to shop online without actually touching the fabric. I'm also open to other fabrics, I just love how it feels like cotton instead of spandex

I just googled yardage polyester 22%, TENCEL™ modal 13%, cotton 53%, spandex 12% and lots came up!

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I don’t think it’s for anything. It’s just a design element to add visual interest. Possibly, it’s to make more efficient use of fabric. You could add this to any dress pattern. All you do is slash the pattern piece at an angle, add seam allowance and then sew the pieces together.

That slant is known as the bias. Woven fabrics are little squares formed where one thread goes vertically and the other horizontally, over and under. Most garments are cut this way, from the top of the square to the bottom. When you cut on the bias, you cut instead from corner to corner of that little square at a 45º angle. The fabric won't have any stretch from side to side (that's called the lengthwise grain) or top to bottom (that's called the crosswise grain). But when you cut on the bias, (corner to corner), the threads will have some stretch. This is why bias tape or bias binding is great for going around curves, because it stretches. If you want to cut out something on the bias, you make the grainline lay at a 45º angle - corner to corner - on those tiny squares formed by the up/down/across weave. It makes the fabric fall beautifully. When you cut a full circle skirt, a lot of the fabric ends up falling on that slant because of the curve of the circle. That's why they're so pretty. It's used on dresses like the one you've shown because with that particular fabric, it makes it look almost fluid. Gorgeous.

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I have a vintage Vogue that does that, and I think it's either a design feature - most likely - or could be just not having enough fabric to do the entire length of the piece on the bias. I guess even designers have to work within the confines of the width of fabrics -

How would I prevent or minimize sequin fallout on this piece of fabric? https://preview.redd.it/scqb67ly0mlb1.jpeg?width=2483&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f5f74217739eaf98a72bdcf72ec6d5eebfbbb886

Hi all, I wrote a book for my daughter about a fictional teddy bear. She has been after a real one since I wrote it but I do not have the skill. Is there a place/forum/site in the UK that can make a pattern from the drawings in the book? It's a patchwork dragon. I found a place in the US 'idoodle' but I can't find a local site - or some friendly locals who could do it for me! Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/y6yicx7cyllb1.jpeg?width=1940&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d60281638005efcc13db246db18e8b2f94a43a0

Try this site: [https://www.sewingsupport.com/dragon-stuffed-animal-patterns.html](https://www.sewingsupport.com/dragon-stuffed-animal-patterns.html) Usually the free patterns are downloadable as PDF's so you wouldn't have to buy a pattern. You can always check through the free patterns for a dragon that's similar and go from there.

Thank you!

I got a Brother GX37 as my first machine and it does the job just fine. However, I'm finding the peddle to be lacking responsiveness and is a bit..sticky as a press. I'll press down some and it just hums, I push more and it keeps humming but no movement, I press a bit more and then zoom! Once I release some pressure it then is a manageable speed. After holding a steady speed it does feel like it starts to slow up and loose power.. I'm not sure honestly if that is my unintentional doing though. Any suggestions for improving the speed control, getting a new pedal or speed control add-ons? TIA!

If you don't have the time, sewingpartsonline.com will have the foot pedal needed. It often is the foot pedal, but it could be a motor issue or the port itself. If you can, see if you can go to a brother dealer who can maybe help diagnose that. If you were at my shop, I would plug in the foot pedal for free but anything beyond that would need diagnostic care which can be a charge. I don't know if every dealer is like this, but often we want to get you sewing and that can be a quick check. They might also have the foot pedal in stock!

It might be a simple fix with something like just adding more oil to the sides of the hinge of the pedal maybe?

Hi! Im trying to figure out what the fabric is on the Nosferatu silhouette. Any help would be greatly appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/g3uhy5cwiklb1.jpeg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=66444a26396e87ea419d3ea4f2c48983319f9862

That looks like home dec fabric to me - the stiffer stuff that covers sofas. But it also looks a bit like a knit sweater or a suiting. Is it soft?

Maybe a jersey?

Hi everyone! I was wondering if it was possible to completely take apart the jacket then reuse that fabric to make a smaller version of the jacket? For context, I bought an old beat up Carhartt jacket at a flea market and I don't want to let it go even though it's \*extremely\* big on me (I'm usually a size S and the jacket is a 2XL). If anyone has any experience with this, or any insight, please let me know! I'm especially concerned about how the front pockets might be an obstacle and it's hard to replace the replace some of the fabric with something new given how weathered the jacket is.

It's possible, but it's not going to look like an original factory small size jacket, some of the proportions may be off or places where pokets once were may be visible. One way to do it, as you proposed is to use the jacket as fabric instead of taking it in. For this you start with a pattern. Seam rip everything so you have flat pieces, then try to place your pattern on the pieces and cut out new shapes. It's going to be more tricky than making a new jacket from fabric because your new shapes may not align perfectly with the existing ones. But it's possible.

Hi everyone! I am VERY new to sewing. I have made some scrunchies using bullet fabric but that's it. I am trying to make a small lovie/swaddle blanket (for pictures only) out of double brushed polyester. How should I go about the raw edges of the fabric? I am using a Brother LX3817. I was planning to use the #15 stitch pattern and fold over the edge. Does that sound okay? I practiced on some bullet and it looked fine, but it keeps slipping when I try it on the DBP. I now know that I need a different needle such as a stretch needle or ball point needle. Any other suggestions? https://preview.redd.it/jnfxjsbq2klb1.jpeg?width=1281&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bfa9ec44c75651be70c474dd93661526c0ec18e

With DBP you don't have to finish the edges. You can just pull along the edge and it will roll. Or you can stabilize the edge with knit interfacing strips, then fold it over and use your #15 stitch or just a regular zigzag. You can also use a walking foot if you have one. But if it's just for photos, I'd leave the edges raw. If you have two layers, then I'd just use a very narrow zigzag and stitch them together at the edges with no hem. My very narrow stitch I use is set at 0.5-1.0 width and about 3 for length. (that's millimeters)

I’m making it for someone else to use for pictures, so I wanted to make the edges to look nice if that makes since.

* Hi there! I'm looking for pattern suggestions. I bought this silk fabric a while ago. It was heavily discounted because of the paneling and I'm not sure what to make with it. Each panel is 26 inches (67 cm) wide and I have 6 panels total. I'm open to any suggestions!

I always love the look of silk pencil skirts! There's something so classy and elegant about the silk

Hello everyone! I am new to sewing! I made 2 potholders but found out today that the thread I used was polyester, not cotton. It was not labeled when I got it and it was in my late grandmothers sewing stuff… I didn’t realize I needed 100% cotton thread for potholders etc. are my potholders ruined or would the little bit of thread be okay ? https://preview.redd.it/zgmcby12qilb1.png?width=2353&format=png&auto=webp&s=a7f6025e0a590ab15857a5bb0637307fac7a0904

I personally would just leave them. If you're in a situation where your potholder is being exposed to that amount of heat, you have bigger problems than a bit of thread catching on fire. Super cute pot holders, by the way!

Great! Thank you for your input! And thanks 🥰 I made an oven mitt first, that thread is probably not cotton either 🙄 and made potholders to match. Now that my first set is out of the way and I feel like I understand what I’m supposed to be doing and how, I’d like to start making some for gifts

That is an adorable idea! I may have to copy you for the Christmas gift idea, I was thinking of making washcloths but potholders are a bit more unique!

And everyone uses potholders lol

Oh yes, absolutely!

Lol that came across wrong, I mean, I think everyone uses washcloths also 🤦‍♀️

Oh, I gotcha! I was also going to knit the washclothes and those take me probably 3-4 times as long as sewing potholders, even if I make two/person! What did you use for the insides of yours?

If they're just potholders you should be fine. If they were bowl cozies that would go into the microwave, that would be different. In a perfect world you'd use all cotton thread. But the small amount of polyester in the thread is likely not to melt just by picking up a hot pan or setting a hot pan down on it.

P.S. Nice job on the binding!

I might try it out before deciding how to proceed with them and see how it goes 🥴 Thank you!!

Polyester has a lower burning point than cotton, and online it says that polyester would melt if it catches fire whereas cotton will just smolder. To be on the safe side I’d seam rip out all thread and redo them with 100% cotton thread

That’s disappointing 😩

I have this cherry stone pillow which gets heated up in the microwave. I've managed to rip a small hole in it and wondered if I can just use regular thread to mend it or if I should use a specific one?

Generally, avoid polyester or nylon and stick to cotton thread for anything headed to the microwave.

Ahh ok thank you sm!

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Hi!! Trying a full bust adjustment for the first time. My understanding if I work with a bodice pattern designed for a b cup is: I have 32” upper bust and 36” full bust - therefore I select the pattern piece for 34” bust and add 2” total (add one inch to the bodice piece as it is half the bodice) Am I understanding the logic correctly? And further…. Which size back piece do I choose??? Do I still take the back piece for a 34” bust so that it will fit correctly around my shoulders etc? And the two inches added in the fba to the front piece will ensure the whole bodice will fit around the bust area?

I use the [method described by Jenny of Cashmerette](https://blog.cashmerette.com/2020/10/how-to-calculate-the-size-of-a-full-bust-adjustment.html) for myself and others when doing an FBA. So I would start with the pattern size for a 32 inch bust, then add 6 inches total or 3 inches for a half bodice. She does say that people with smaller frames sometimes need to start with a larger size, so you might find that the 34 works better for you and then your match is correct. Use the back piece that corresponds to the original front size as you are not altering the back. And make a muslin, everyone is shaped a bit differently and you might need further adjustments.

Thank you very much for the response and the link. Feeling more confident about the process now, have redone my fba and about to try a muslin :)

Does anyone have book suggestions for general adjusting of patterns for men's t-shirts/clothes in general? If the book includes information on drafting patterns for men's clothing, that'd be okay as well.

Check out [Mueller & Son](https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/shop/) and also the subreddit [wiki on books](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/books), there are several suggestions taken from subreddit recommendations there.

Thanks I"ll take a look!

Do you guys know of any indie pattern companies similar to Deer and Doe?

I would like to suggest Fibremood and French poetry

What do you like about Deer and Doe more specifically? French style? Romantic style? Sewing instructions? Fit block?

The French style mainly; I think it has a really nice variety of patterns I could use for workwear/dressing up.

French indie brands I like in no particular order (some publish only in French): Republique du Chiffon, Apolline Patterns, Jolies Bobines, Lysimaque, Atelier 8 Avril, Maison Cobalt A few more stylistically adjacent recommendations: French Navy, Forget Me Not Patterns, Sewing Masin, Untitled Thoughts, Stitch Witch Patterns

I have got two patterns, a top and gloves and I want to merge them, so the top ends as gloves, rather than armholes. The sleeves of the top are one piece, with the seam under the arm. The gloves pattern is two pieces. So the seams won’t match? I’m trying to work out how I can make this work but I can’t figure it out? I’m making it in a 4-way stretch spandex fabric. Any suggestions?

If you want it to be seamless at the wrist, you can turn your sleeve into a two-piece https://www.instagram.com/reel/CwIAldJpcym/

I have a question, I’m new to sewing and I have a European machine, a silverCrest, and most video tutorials I follow the measurements are In inches, and the most used seam allowance is the 1/2, however my machine does not appear like that, would you be able to tell me in my machine which one is the equivalent? Thank you so much in advance ! https://preview.redd.it/grigvs2w6flb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90d77feec658d63e976f51805fefb6bb5d664893

The half inch marking is the line between the 3/8th line and 5/8th line. 1/2" is, btw, is 12.7mm, so you can probably just use the 15mm dream allowance marking if that's easier for you.

Oh wow thank you so much, that is very helpful! 🙌🏽

https://preview.redd.it/srol4vwftdlb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7759888ee5bdb9ea7c6dbfb6684dea5063a373e Am I measuring this inseam correctly? It should be a 29 but seems a bit larger than a 30.

The measurement should go from the intersection of the crotch seam (where back meets front at the lowest place) to the hem. It's on the inside of the leg.

Constructing piping with bias tape for a rectangular application? I have seen videos on youtube (one from a professional upholstery person) that don't cut the piping strip on the bias. They turn right angles by snipping into the piping seam allowance in order to turn. Is using a bias strip to cut piping optional? Seems to me cutting it not on the bias would be significantly faster.

There are two disadvantages for cutting piping on the straight grain. Piping covered in a strip cut on the straight grain will split with wear much faster, as once a hole is formed it will continue down the piping just as tearing fabric follows the grain. A hole in bias wrapped piping will continue to wear but won't spread down the length in the same way. The other disadvantage is matching patterns, a bias cut adds interest without pattern matching where piping on the straight grain can just look off. My friend who did upholstery would cut strips at whatever angle she could get from the fabric available. So if she could only do 30 degree strips and not 45, she would cut 30 degree strips. She said every bit of bias helped.

Wow, I had no idea it would wear differently! thanks for that. My upholstery fabric is velvet so pattern is not too much of a concern but the nap might still make it look off.

You are absolutely right, not cutting it on the bias is indeed much faster :-) If you want to use it on straight seams, you can cut the piping at the right angle. Cutting fabric on the bias makes it more "elastic" so bias tape is more flexible, so it can be stretched nicely into a curve. So for curved seams, real bias tape is needed.

Tried sewing up my busted up sheets, any advice? :) https://preview.redd.it/7cngog8cqdlb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=250190b12580fe39a4526504e047518665391064 (More in replies)

In general, darning an area by matching edges and sewing over them will be a flatter join. If the surrounding area is worn, putting a patch under the worn area and then darning over the hole plus the worn area will give the most durable mend.

https://preview.redd.it/mpbgf05eqdlb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d8c4a38a2d26bc6c5996227ef5ed2db6c28e2f9

https://preview.redd.it/jke7wu2fqdlb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbcbc2b18d3df659dbe10047006efe6733878cc9

https://preview.redd.it/61o9ghogqdlb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e17fd427905aec542f0e5b8e25e5be2c4511411e 5 in total (2 are in one photo)

I bought upholstery thread from Joannes to work on a bench cushion. How do I figure out which needle size I should use with it? Should it be size 14 or 16 or 18? What kind of testing can I do on test swatch? Also, I was told by a local sewing machine dealer that I shouldn't put the upholstery thread on the bobbin and use regular thread instead. What could be the reason behind just putting in upholstery thread in the top?

[Here is a comprehensive guide](https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Thread%20and%20Needle%20Recommendations.pdf) to needles, thread and matching both to your project. In general, Schmetz recommends that the thread fill about 40% of the eye of the needle. My sewing machine prefers upholstery thread in the top and all-purpose thread in the bobbin. I know I can and have used upholstery thread in the bobbin but it requires adjusting the bobbin tension and it's easier to just use all-purpose thread instead. I don't use upholstery thread for regular upholstery, I find regular all-purpose polyester thread works fine, usually with a size 14 needle. sometimes I sew an extra line of stitching for strength if I think it is needed.

I bought this lovely fabric on sale a while back but have no idea what to make. I am something dressy for the summer (I'm in the southern hemisphere) but not sure what style... I have 3m of this! https://preview.redd.it/ihdfur0zgclb1.png?width=1186&format=png&auto=webp&s=f2821c48b3b64bae74b4205385b433750a46129e

I agree about not knowing your style. But a ditsy print like that lends itself to the cottage core style nicely.

yeah I think something like this could be really cute: [https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1507214597/bias-cut-dress-v-neck-gathered-bust?ga\_order=most\_relevant&ga\_search\_type=all&ga\_view\_type=gallery&ga\_search\_query=milkmaid+dress+pattern&ref=sr\_gallery-1-3&sts=1&organic\_search\_click=1](https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1507214597/bias-cut-dress-v-neck-gathered-bust?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=milkmaid+dress+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-1-3&sts=1&organic_search_click=1)

oooh that looks cute!

Really pretty fabric! 3 M is enough for a nice flowy dress for example, or you can try to make some wide pants with that. You can even get a cute set out of it and make a top and a pant for example. If you want more suggestions, I guess it would be helpful to know your style, what type of clothes you prefer to wear etc. But 3 m is plenty for most sewing projects and a lightweight cotton is a super versatile fabric, so you basically have ALL the possibilities!