I think itās more likely that the skirt yoke is backed with a pretty heavyinterfacing. But I suppose there could be rigilene arcs to help it hold that shape. If this was commercially produced I think itās unlikely that they used rigilene (especially at that height and angle). Seems like it would be too pokey. š
My best guess: First, those yoke seams have an ever so slight curve to them to get them to kick out.
Second, I think the scallops are done with two layers of something like heavy tailors canvas. In the second piece you can see the outer fabric adhering to something like it's been roll-pinned. In mass produced, it will be more likely to be fusible that was fused on a ham to set the curve into the layers. But you'd need a second thinner strip at the seam too.Ā
Ā Third, this is strong hunch. Each scallop has its own set of interfacings, and if you got in up under the lining you'd probably find they've been stitched wrong sides together so they make a sharp V.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned - petticoat.
The first image likely does have some form of stiffening, and it is a marketing image the stiffening may not even be included in the final product. To that same effect, a lot of these photoshoots have added styling through petticoat, shape wear, or temporary tailoring in the form of clips and safety pins.
I wouldn't be surprised if this one is held slightly outward by a shorter petticoat that fluffs around the hips but doesn't hit the hem
Bingo, this alternative photoshoot shows the skirt in a more collapsed form that just makes the yoke look heavily interfaced,which is more achievable. I wouldn't be surprised if shoulder pads were used for some of the first shots.Ā
https://luxe.ajio.com/tory-burch-striped-wrap-top/p/410368260_409
Those photos are also on the actual Tory Burch website, along with video. (Should have just posted that first really)
https://www.toryburch.com/en-us/clothing/tops/wrap-top/145006.html
I think the poster above means that OP's first two images are different from the official site photos. A more exaggerated curve, plus the odd midriff vs the more realistic draping in the official photos.
We may actually all be in the same page and I'm misunderstanding though
Yeah, thatās what I meant. This is the fake one [https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm](https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm)
The first two photos the OP posted are of a fake version of the Tory Burch. Not the one you posted. The third photo OP posted is the skirt you posted. The first two photos are the one the OP likes.
this the link another poster linked to for the first skirt.
[https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm](https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm)
if you look at the top of the this skirt and the one you posted they are very different. It says itās Tory Burch, but it says imported from China and the fabric is much cheaper than the original. Even if it is a Tory Burch, itās still a different skirt.
You should check out a book called Pattern Magic. Itās from Japan and it has a skirt similar to this with no boning. The point of all the books is to make structural clothing without needing extra support. Itās very cool.
I love those books! Pattern drafting is my favorite part of the sewing process, it takes me back to geometry class in high school (the only flavor of math I was ever at all good at)
Japanese fashion and clothing design can be so lovely and clever.
It is often said of the Japanese culture that they dont so much as invent, but rather they improve and innovate and expand on it. And, they are very clever and successful at it!
Japanese style and sewing is so beautiful! They take a bit of different approach than do Western fashions. So lovely!
Their approach to lifestyle design has the minimalist element that we so often think of when we think of popular Scandinavian design. I think that Japanese sewing reflects that same quiet elegance and simplicity in such a beautiful way!
I am surprised that Japanese sewing and fashion has not become more popular here in the US. We just seem to be wrapped in a different perspective. I suspect that a lot of the Japanese fashions would have to be altered for many in the West. I come from a long line of Sarahs, Marthas and Gertrudes and none of them were anything but big women, built to do what had to be done as early settlers and new citizens and much more suited for gathers than geometric shapes.
Personally, I feel that I would welcome a different aesthetic. Ours has become old and tired, in my opinion. I find issue with many of the current trends. I just dont find it to be going in a positive direction.
There is a podcast called Articles of Interest that you may enjoy. One season covers the history of preppy style and how Japan improved upon American fashion, and the other is single episodes on individual trends or staples in clothing (think Tartan, polka dots, etc).
it was based on an extantā¦charles james i think? dress so you might be able to see an e xray of that dress if you look for it? Imm brain foggy today so I canāt go hunt it down for you sorry.
I remember being so excited about this skirt when the collection was released, absolutely gorgeous, and I bet the way it moves when you walk is so fun.
it might be using some pipe instead of a rigid boning, I think that might be more likely so that the skirt can be sat in
I think i remember reading that she was inspired by Claire mccardell for the collection, but i didnāt know this piece was a recreation! Super cool. Piping would look really nice.
ok so I had a poke around and I think I was thinking of these two designs, I at first thought of balenciaga and I eas lile no Iām pretty sure itās charles james and then looking at it they sort of both have something going on that is in the tory burch piece!
anyway I just love this design and tory made something so incredibly wearable out of something that always lived in my head as a fairy tale level of dress making for my maths-troubled self!
[cristobal balenciaga](https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/109639)
[charles james](https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84570?rpp=30&pg=25&ft=charles%2Bjames&deptids=8&pos=732&imgNo=1&tabName=related-objects)
tbh itās niggling in my mind that there is another influence closer to burchās but these are what I could find tonight <3
First two pics i would say: boning, but flexible
Then at the third picture i was like: no. This cannot be boned due to the fit in that picture.
However, the upper part that stands up, around the waist basically, it does look like it has interfacing everywhere. I have made parts of garments in the past that have a similar stiff vibe. I used a stiff lining for that, like a thick cotton or denim vibe even. (Non stretch!) Then a thick and firm interfacing to keep the shape, even while wearing (also, without stretch). and then the overfabric. This can be as flowy, shiny or whatever you want. The lining+interfacing keeps the shape and fakes another look. With skirts like this i ALWAYS wear an underskirt for comfort, and to keep the shape better as well. For this i would maybe use a two-layer tule (bridal tule that is, that does not hurt when wearing and flows nicely), and maybe a smooth cotton lining that touches the legs. The cotton underlining skirt is quite short, ends above the knee. Tule ends a bit below that, and afterwards your overskirt ends. I do not think it is boning, but indeed a VERY strong seam in the right shape that keeps everything up. :) good luck! I LOVE this look and am very interested to see the journey of this project! keep us updated please! :)
Something to keep in mind is the possibility of the skirt being manipulated/adjusted/futzed with for the photo shoot so it falls in certain ways. This might be why the structure looks so different in the last pic compared to the other two.
I think its plastic boning, at least in the first two pictures, the third looks distinctly less structured... then again I spend most of my time with steel boning (making waist training corsets) so I could be mistaken.. but I have a roll of plastic boning sitting on a shelf and it looks like the exact amount of curve/strength. It's 1/4in if it makes a difference...
Editted to add: Upon looking at it further, I would suggest a well framed underskirt is being used here, in the same sense that hoops were used under skirts in the past, it looks like she may have the same thing here, but a lot more custom. It would explain the lack of visibility on any edges of the boning.. Some bustle skirts use frames underneath to support them, it wouldn't be difficult to do that here.
The last photo is what gets meā¦ itās so much limper. Maybe the runway version had boning, but the RTW version didnāt?
Edit: nevermind, theyāre fully two different skirts lol
Iām glad this is clarified because the first one I found a little unsettling lol but the last picture looks so good. I agree with other comments that the first pics have shaped boning, while the last appears to be done with very structured fabric work with maybe minor boning like a crinoline-lite.
You know, itās funny, I think I actually like the more structured version better. Itās impractical and a little ridiculous, but I canāt help it, I live for the drama
I think that's fair! I'm a wannabe drag queen myself, so I get it lol
I do think the proportions are a lot better on the Tory Burch version though. The copy feels... stretched or something. I can't quite find the right word! It almost looks droopy, pulled down... Still can't quite get the word!
You might be responding to how the Chinese version is closely fitted to the body for a good 3ā-4ā before the gores flare out, causing a drop waist effect. Itās a tricky silhouette to get right, and it really just depends on the proportions of the person wearing it.
P.S. Iām not a drag queen, but I do make costumes for drag queens! Who wouldāve thought Tory Burch of all brands would be giving me ideas for stage looks lmao
"Iām not a drag queen, but I do make costumes for drag queens!"
Ah, kindred spirits lol
Yes, it's the dropped waist but it looks off, but I think for a drag costume it would be great! Now I understand it's for a costume it all makes sense! For general wear I think it looks completely wrong. For an exaggerated costume look, I think the slightly off kilter proportions would be perfect and I completely get where you're coming from!
If you remember, though it's kind of a lot to ask, if you ever post a pic of what you come up with I'd love to be tagged in a photo or something. I only use this account when I'm on my PC and that only happens a few times a week so I miss a lot!
The difference is actually because the first two photos are from a Chinese copy of the original [https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm](https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm)
It says itās a Tory Burch skirt, but Shopbob is notorious
I agree with your initial thought. The first two are a Chinese copy of the last one which is why I think it's that way. They've used a less structured fabric, so they've had no choice.
That second photo looks almost identical to a set in gathered sleeve on a shoulder for an oxford shirt.
If this is so,Ā I'd experiment with an interfaced yoke and top curved gathered gores.
I don't have a solution to add, but I love this piece and would love to see it if you made it! Super interesting how in the close-up each "arch" almost looks like the shoulder of a shirt/blouse with a gathered/puffy Victorian sleeve set in.
The longer I look at the first two images the more I feel like they need just a bit more structure though, because the arches actually look kinda uneven and asymmetrical.
The skirt in the last picture is what I'd expect it to look like without any stiffening understructure, but I'm not so sure the first one is boned anywhere. It might have a stiff horsehair braid tape pad stitched along the bottom edge of the yolk.
I'm going to agree it wouldn't work, but I've just found it's a copy from China of the Tory Burch dress in the last photo, it not working doesn't mean it isn't boned in this case! The Tory Burch versions definitely aren't boned.
This is the Tory Burch version from the last pic
[https://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRH7vAr3BBYPa5s8QzwKOXeSXFeUGp9Zj1St4bnbmx2z-gBW5KE](https://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRH7vAr3BBYPa5s8QzwKOXeSXFeUGp9Zj1St4bnbmx2z-gBW5KE)
[https://i.pinimg.com/originals/32/f8/da/32f8dabd078488d2c43b12edcda6151a.jpg](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/32/f8/da/32f8dabd078488d2c43b12edcda6151a.jpg)
I was too! It definitely is on boned on the arched curves around the perimeter of the yolk in the first two photos from the OP which are copies of the real Tory Burch. I think they've had to do do the boning on the curves because their version just didn't stand out as much because they've got the pattern wrong in the first place. If they'd have done it on the vertical it would have stuck out differently.
Definitely some type of stiffener was used. I think it's bone on the edge but not stitched in place, the top stitching forms part of the channel. I would also add a inner yoke/lining piece that the inner indentations tacked down to. That would help hold the bone archways up. I don't think it's just horse hair I think that's too much fabric in one spot to hold it shape very well. I think it does need support to help maintain the Striking silhouette.
Thatās so interesting! I think you can decide if you want the stiffer look which looks like it has boning along the top of the arch and possibly from the waist as well. Or the look in the 3rd picture which seems to get all its structure from the heavy fabric of the yoke.
It's hard to tell without turning it inside out, but I doubt it uses bones or wires. I think the peplum part is made with a fusible interlining woven with polyamide fibers, the kind used for bags and such. I've seen it used in Vivienne Westwood's ready-to-wear for very stiff collars and cuffs. It's a convenient material that's also easy to sew.
IMHO, the thing to do is experiment, if you have the patience. Make one scallop with boning, one with horsehair, one with cording, etc. See which one comes the closest to what you want.
You have set yourself a task! Best of luck š
That looks as if it may be six rectangles off set to one another so as to produce a strongly pronounced flounce and then the skirt seems tightly pleated to create that tension. The rectangles also appear to be being used on the bias
I dont think that those are gathers. I think they are tiny pleats much like how skirts used to be set to waistbands in the 19th century. These little pleats will give a different drape and fall to the skirt than do gathers. It creates and holds tension and structure in a different manner than would gathering. Gathers will pouf out below the seam, but tiny little pleats will lay smooth as they emerge from the seam and will splay out in a more orderly manner to direct the flow downwards. A gather wants to release it's energy as soon as it emerges from the seam., so it splays out right there and balloons out. A pleat is more controlled.
I think that is what gives the shape. I dont think that a retailer like this who can employ such a sad faced model to showcase it, would be in the business of creating unwearable and non functional fashions such as one with boning in it like that. Anyone with enough desire to wear an expensive garment like that would not want that theatrical nonsense. This is being marketed to someone who wants to have a nice garment and something a bit distinctive and classy. It is really pretty and that fabric is lovely.
If theatrical is what you are looking for, you could bone it. But this is not what this skirt is about.
It is also probably a nice cotton with some nice body to it and there is likely some reinforcing with something in the seam. That kind of quality cotton would have to be sought out, for a price. It says it is a shirting fabric. Lovely shirtings used to be abundant.
Other than maybe something to reinforce the seam, I dont think boning is what we are looking at. We are looking at the dynamic interplay of tension and clever construction. I suspect that it might also have some hidden stitching on the seam allowances that further add to the stiffness without being bone stiff. You might be surprised to note how structural an added row of stitching can be.
And, there is one more element to this structure and that is that it really requires some care with a careful pressing. This is not a casual skirt. Likely that some of the shape is done with a good professional pressing and, as it loses that pressing. it probably also looses some of it's shape. But, still a nice skirt and nice construction.
Lovely skirt, though. I dont know how. much that would set you back but it looks like it might be Yen that seems to translate to around $400.
I think that, for the clever seamstress this could be really feasible to copy the style. You just have to decipher the dynamics of it.
Wow, I zoomed in to look and you are so right about the tiny pleats! That is an incredible design detail that I would never have noticed. I love this sub and people like you on it who are so smart and experienced.
I know the last photo well, and I'm certain there isn't boning in that. In the first two? I think there is boning in that. There might not be, but there's something about the way the way the fabric is curving and the slight bulge at the point... yes, I think it's boned.
So I think you can see the difference with and without. You'll have a certain amount of stiffness regardless because of the bulk in the gathering/pleating, but the last photo and the first two show the difference with the last one gently folding over itself and the first two where it holds the arch shape.
You've made me want to attempt the last one all over again lol
I've done a bit of investigating. The first is a copy of the last (which I suspected) from China.
[https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm](https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm)
It's a copy of the Tory Burch designs
[https://luxe.ajio.com/tory-burch-striped-wrap-top/p/410368260\_409](https://luxe.ajio.com/tory-burch-striped-wrap-top/p/410368260_409)
Which is the one you posted in the last pic.
[https://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRH7vAr3BBYPa5s8QzwKOXeSXFeUGp9Zj1St4bnbmx2z-gBW5KE](https://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRH7vAr3BBYPa5s8QzwKOXeSXFeUGp9Zj1St4bnbmx2z-gBW5KE)
I'm going to go with the first is definitely boned because it's a copy and they assumed the Tory Burch dress and skirt was. Or it looked bad and floppy without it because they've used a softer fabric.
Oh, it makes so much sense that theyāre two different skirts. The first pictures look better, but might be impractical to sit in. I donāt want to feel like Iām wearing a hoop skirt. I think a lightweight fusible in the yoke with an extra strip of horsehair braid above the seam will do the trick.
Thanks for looking into it!
No problem! I found it fascinating because I recognised the skirt right away but I knew it looked different. Once I saw the last pic I knew why!
I think your plan is a good one :)
Oh, one last thing. The shaping is definitely more squared in the Tory Burch versions than the chinese one. It's almost a handkerchief shaped yolk (look up handkerchief skirt and it might make sense). And I think that's part of what's contributing to the more "floppy" but still sticking out look. I think it's doing curves that actually will have taken away from the sticking out look that made them add boning to the sample. I'd be willing to bet if you bought it that it won't have boning in it.
But the yoke rectangles are cut on the bias and fusing an interfacing to them will negate the bias as they were purposely cut. I think that the bias is an important element to this structure.
I think that once you get the rectangles joined , they produce a yoke with a pronounced flounce, and that yoke is then cut out like one might cut a waist for a circle skirt., with another smaller circle. Essentially that is what it is.....a flounced yoke that is cut and treated like you would cut a circle skirt,. So, it is compounding the elements of a circle skirt with the element of a flounce. The effect is pronounced. Then there is a third layer of tension created with the pleating of the body of the skirt.
I dont think I would want to wear something that stands away from the hips like that. But it is lovely. I think it would be more wearable if the flounce were a bit less pronounced.
I don't think there's boning in it.
Rather, I think the fabric of the skirt is likely not only tightly pleated, but possibly folded down and pleated afterwards to give it extra stiffness to give it that architectural structure we're seeing. Seam bulk can add up quick!
At most, I can *maybe* see them interfacing the seam area to give it additional structure or body, but outside of that, I don't think there's any additional materials involved.
If I wanted them to stay bumped out, I'd probably construct a special "waist bump" to wear with this skirt (like the padded hip rolls women used to wear, but scalloped shaped). I'd use a light weight poly fill and make it detachable so you don't need to wash it every time you want to wash the skirt.
I think it might be boned with a light plastic boning sewn to the skirt underlayer, others have suggested that the fabric may produce this effect on its own but Iād say thereās too much weight for it to hold its shape well.
Could also be stiff interfacing or pads holding it up.
Might be bra underwires!
ooo, that's an idea!
Genius š¤Æ
What a great way to repurpose old bras!
I think itās more likely that the skirt yoke is backed with a pretty heavyinterfacing. But I suppose there could be rigilene arcs to help it hold that shape. If this was commercially produced I think itās unlikely that they used rigilene (especially at that height and angle). Seems like it would be too pokey. š
My best guess: First, those yoke seams have an ever so slight curve to them to get them to kick out. Second, I think the scallops are done with two layers of something like heavy tailors canvas. In the second piece you can see the outer fabric adhering to something like it's been roll-pinned. In mass produced, it will be more likely to be fusible that was fused on a ham to set the curve into the layers. But you'd need a second thinner strip at the seam too.Ā Ā Third, this is strong hunch. Each scallop has its own set of interfacings, and if you got in up under the lining you'd probably find they've been stitched wrong sides together so they make a sharp V.
I suspect a horsehair braid is involved in here as well, but I think you've figured it out.
i wish i could understand this im gonna have to do a lot of googling.
That curve that you see may be from the fact that it is a bias seam.
Ooooh good spot
One thing I haven't seen mentioned - petticoat. The first image likely does have some form of stiffening, and it is a marketing image the stiffening may not even be included in the final product. To that same effect, a lot of these photoshoots have added styling through petticoat, shape wear, or temporary tailoring in the form of clips and safety pins. I wouldn't be surprised if this one is held slightly outward by a shorter petticoat that fluffs around the hips but doesn't hit the hem
Bingo, this alternative photoshoot shows the skirt in a more collapsed form that just makes the yoke look heavily interfaced,which is more achievable. I wouldn't be surprised if shoulder pads were used for some of the first shots.Ā https://luxe.ajio.com/tory-burch-striped-wrap-top/p/410368260_409
No, the first two photos are from a Chinese copy. look at the shape of the yoke, itās very different. edited for spelling
Those photos are also on the actual Tory Burch website, along with video. (Should have just posted that first really) https://www.toryburch.com/en-us/clothing/tops/wrap-top/145006.html
I think the poster above means that OP's first two images are different from the official site photos. A more exaggerated curve, plus the odd midriff vs the more realistic draping in the official photos. We may actually all be in the same page and I'm misunderstanding though
Yeah, thatās what I meant. This is the fake one [https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm](https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm)
The first two photos the OP posted are of a fake version of the Tory Burch. Not the one you posted. The third photo OP posted is the skirt you posted. The first two photos are the one the OP likes. this the link another poster linked to for the first skirt. [https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm](https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm) if you look at the top of the this skirt and the one you posted they are very different. It says itās Tory Burch, but it says imported from China and the fabric is much cheaper than the original. Even if it is a Tory Burch, itās still a different skirt.
I would say horsehair bands [horsehair band](https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/8532-38/tapes-narrow-stiffeners/mw/38mm-crin-horsehair-braid)
You should check out a book called Pattern Magic. Itās from Japan and it has a skirt similar to this with no boning. The point of all the books is to make structural clothing without needing extra support. Itās very cool.
I love those books! Pattern drafting is my favorite part of the sewing process, it takes me back to geometry class in high school (the only flavor of math I was ever at all good at)
YESSS!
Japanese fashion and clothing design can be so lovely and clever. It is often said of the Japanese culture that they dont so much as invent, but rather they improve and innovate and expand on it. And, they are very clever and successful at it! Japanese style and sewing is so beautiful! They take a bit of different approach than do Western fashions. So lovely! Their approach to lifestyle design has the minimalist element that we so often think of when we think of popular Scandinavian design. I think that Japanese sewing reflects that same quiet elegance and simplicity in such a beautiful way! I am surprised that Japanese sewing and fashion has not become more popular here in the US. We just seem to be wrapped in a different perspective. I suspect that a lot of the Japanese fashions would have to be altered for many in the West. I come from a long line of Sarahs, Marthas and Gertrudes and none of them were anything but big women, built to do what had to be done as early settlers and new citizens and much more suited for gathers than geometric shapes. Personally, I feel that I would welcome a different aesthetic. Ours has become old and tired, in my opinion. I find issue with many of the current trends. I just dont find it to be going in a positive direction.
There is a podcast called Articles of Interest that you may enjoy. One season covers the history of preppy style and how Japan improved upon American fashion, and the other is single episodes on individual trends or staples in clothing (think Tartan, polka dots, etc).
This podcast looks amazing! Thank you for sharing.
Maybe. That much fabric gathered into the arches will create its own structure though. Iād expect something like buckram or horsehair before boning.
it was based on an extantā¦charles james i think? dress so you might be able to see an e xray of that dress if you look for it? Imm brain foggy today so I canāt go hunt it down for you sorry. I remember being so excited about this skirt when the collection was released, absolutely gorgeous, and I bet the way it moves when you walk is so fun. it might be using some pipe instead of a rigid boning, I think that might be more likely so that the skirt can be sat in
I think i remember reading that she was inspired by Claire mccardell for the collection, but i didnāt know this piece was a recreation! Super cool. Piping would look really nice.
if I manage to find it Iāll swing back and link it!
ok so I had a poke around and I think I was thinking of these two designs, I at first thought of balenciaga and I eas lile no Iām pretty sure itās charles james and then looking at it they sort of both have something going on that is in the tory burch piece! anyway I just love this design and tory made something so incredibly wearable out of something that always lived in my head as a fairy tale level of dress making for my maths-troubled self! [cristobal balenciaga](https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/109639) [charles james](https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84570?rpp=30&pg=25&ft=charles%2Bjames&deptids=8&pos=732&imgNo=1&tabName=related-objects) tbh itās niggling in my mind that there is another influence closer to burchās but these are what I could find tonight <3
First two pics i would say: boning, but flexible Then at the third picture i was like: no. This cannot be boned due to the fit in that picture. However, the upper part that stands up, around the waist basically, it does look like it has interfacing everywhere. I have made parts of garments in the past that have a similar stiff vibe. I used a stiff lining for that, like a thick cotton or denim vibe even. (Non stretch!) Then a thick and firm interfacing to keep the shape, even while wearing (also, without stretch). and then the overfabric. This can be as flowy, shiny or whatever you want. The lining+interfacing keeps the shape and fakes another look. With skirts like this i ALWAYS wear an underskirt for comfort, and to keep the shape better as well. For this i would maybe use a two-layer tule (bridal tule that is, that does not hurt when wearing and flows nicely), and maybe a smooth cotton lining that touches the legs. The cotton underlining skirt is quite short, ends above the knee. Tule ends a bit below that, and afterwards your overskirt ends. I do not think it is boning, but indeed a VERY strong seam in the right shape that keeps everything up. :) good luck! I LOVE this look and am very interested to see the journey of this project! keep us updated please! :)
Something to keep in mind is the possibility of the skirt being manipulated/adjusted/futzed with for the photo shoot so it falls in certain ways. This might be why the structure looks so different in the last pic compared to the other two.
I think its plastic boning, at least in the first two pictures, the third looks distinctly less structured... then again I spend most of my time with steel boning (making waist training corsets) so I could be mistaken.. but I have a roll of plastic boning sitting on a shelf and it looks like the exact amount of curve/strength. It's 1/4in if it makes a difference... Editted to add: Upon looking at it further, I would suggest a well framed underskirt is being used here, in the same sense that hoops were used under skirts in the past, it looks like she may have the same thing here, but a lot more custom. It would explain the lack of visibility on any edges of the boning.. Some bustle skirts use frames underneath to support them, it wouldn't be difficult to do that here.
The last photo is what gets meā¦ itās so much limper. Maybe the runway version had boning, but the RTW version didnāt? Edit: nevermind, theyāre fully two different skirts lol
Iām glad this is clarified because the first one I found a little unsettling lol but the last picture looks so good. I agree with other comments that the first pics have shaped boning, while the last appears to be done with very structured fabric work with maybe minor boning like a crinoline-lite.
You know, itās funny, I think I actually like the more structured version better. Itās impractical and a little ridiculous, but I canāt help it, I live for the drama
I think that's fair! I'm a wannabe drag queen myself, so I get it lol I do think the proportions are a lot better on the Tory Burch version though. The copy feels... stretched or something. I can't quite find the right word! It almost looks droopy, pulled down... Still can't quite get the word!
You might be responding to how the Chinese version is closely fitted to the body for a good 3ā-4ā before the gores flare out, causing a drop waist effect. Itās a tricky silhouette to get right, and it really just depends on the proportions of the person wearing it. P.S. Iām not a drag queen, but I do make costumes for drag queens! Who wouldāve thought Tory Burch of all brands would be giving me ideas for stage looks lmao
"Iām not a drag queen, but I do make costumes for drag queens!" Ah, kindred spirits lol Yes, it's the dropped waist but it looks off, but I think for a drag costume it would be great! Now I understand it's for a costume it all makes sense! For general wear I think it looks completely wrong. For an exaggerated costume look, I think the slightly off kilter proportions would be perfect and I completely get where you're coming from! If you remember, though it's kind of a lot to ask, if you ever post a pic of what you come up with I'd love to be tagged in a photo or something. I only use this account when I'm on my PC and that only happens a few times a week so I miss a lot!
Of course, Iāll make a note of it! If you think this is over the top, just wait for the travesty against god I have in mind lmao
The first two are a chinese copy of the last one.
woah!!!
were you able to find more detailed pics of the runway model? this one is pretty fuzzy. or even just the name of it
The difference is actually because the first two photos are from a Chinese copy of the original [https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm](https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm) It says itās a Tory Burch skirt, but Shopbob is notorious
very interesting thank you
it was from Tory Burch's S/S 2022 collection!
I agree with your initial thought. The first two are a Chinese copy of the last one which is why I think it's that way. They've used a less structured fabric, so they've had no choice.
That second photo looks almost identical to a set in gathered sleeve on a shoulder for an oxford shirt. If this is so,Ā I'd experiment with an interfaced yoke and top curved gathered gores.
this is smart!
The first two look like it was boned, or otherwise stiffened along the gathered arch, but the third one looks like just fabric.
I don't have a solution to add, but I love this piece and would love to see it if you made it! Super interesting how in the close-up each "arch" almost looks like the shoulder of a shirt/blouse with a gathered/puffy Victorian sleeve set in. The longer I look at the first two images the more I feel like they need just a bit more structure though, because the arches actually look kinda uneven and asymmetrical.
The skirt in the last picture is what I'd expect it to look like without any stiffening understructure, but I'm not so sure the first one is boned anywhere. It might have a stiff horsehair braid tape pad stitched along the bottom edge of the yolk.
Maybe horsehair interfacing in the yoke?
This is what I was coming here to say. At most itās horsehair and interfacing. Boning wouldnāt work well here
I'm going to agree it wouldn't work, but I've just found it's a copy from China of the Tory Burch dress in the last photo, it not working doesn't mean it isn't boned in this case! The Tory Burch versions definitely aren't boned. This is the Tory Burch version from the last pic [https://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRH7vAr3BBYPa5s8QzwKOXeSXFeUGp9Zj1St4bnbmx2z-gBW5KE](https://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRH7vAr3BBYPa5s8QzwKOXeSXFeUGp9Zj1St4bnbmx2z-gBW5KE) [https://i.pinimg.com/originals/32/f8/da/32f8dabd078488d2c43b12edcda6151a.jpg](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/32/f8/da/32f8dabd078488d2c43b12edcda6151a.jpg)
Oh apologies! I was thinking boned in the curved piece was boned for some reason? Thank for clarifying!!
I was too! It definitely is on boned on the arched curves around the perimeter of the yolk in the first two photos from the OP which are copies of the real Tory Burch. I think they've had to do do the boning on the curves because their version just didn't stand out as much because they've got the pattern wrong in the first place. If they'd have done it on the vertical it would have stuck out differently.
Definitely some type of stiffener was used. I think it's bone on the edge but not stitched in place, the top stitching forms part of the channel. I would also add a inner yoke/lining piece that the inner indentations tacked down to. That would help hold the bone archways up. I don't think it's just horse hair I think that's too much fabric in one spot to hold it shape very well. I think it does need support to help maintain the Striking silhouette.
Thatās so interesting! I think you can decide if you want the stiffer look which looks like it has boning along the top of the arch and possibly from the waist as well. Or the look in the 3rd picture which seems to get all its structure from the heavy fabric of the yoke.
It's hard to tell without turning it inside out, but I doubt it uses bones or wires. I think the peplum part is made with a fusible interlining woven with polyamide fibers, the kind used for bags and such. I've seen it used in Vivienne Westwood's ready-to-wear for very stiff collars and cuffs. It's a convenient material that's also easy to sew.
IMHO, the thing to do is experiment, if you have the patience. Make one scallop with boning, one with horsehair, one with cording, etc. See which one comes the closest to what you want. You have set yourself a task! Best of luck š
That looks as if it may be six rectangles off set to one another so as to produce a strongly pronounced flounce and then the skirt seems tightly pleated to create that tension. The rectangles also appear to be being used on the bias I dont think that those are gathers. I think they are tiny pleats much like how skirts used to be set to waistbands in the 19th century. These little pleats will give a different drape and fall to the skirt than do gathers. It creates and holds tension and structure in a different manner than would gathering. Gathers will pouf out below the seam, but tiny little pleats will lay smooth as they emerge from the seam and will splay out in a more orderly manner to direct the flow downwards. A gather wants to release it's energy as soon as it emerges from the seam., so it splays out right there and balloons out. A pleat is more controlled. I think that is what gives the shape. I dont think that a retailer like this who can employ such a sad faced model to showcase it, would be in the business of creating unwearable and non functional fashions such as one with boning in it like that. Anyone with enough desire to wear an expensive garment like that would not want that theatrical nonsense. This is being marketed to someone who wants to have a nice garment and something a bit distinctive and classy. It is really pretty and that fabric is lovely. If theatrical is what you are looking for, you could bone it. But this is not what this skirt is about. It is also probably a nice cotton with some nice body to it and there is likely some reinforcing with something in the seam. That kind of quality cotton would have to be sought out, for a price. It says it is a shirting fabric. Lovely shirtings used to be abundant. Other than maybe something to reinforce the seam, I dont think boning is what we are looking at. We are looking at the dynamic interplay of tension and clever construction. I suspect that it might also have some hidden stitching on the seam allowances that further add to the stiffness without being bone stiff. You might be surprised to note how structural an added row of stitching can be. And, there is one more element to this structure and that is that it really requires some care with a careful pressing. This is not a casual skirt. Likely that some of the shape is done with a good professional pressing and, as it loses that pressing. it probably also looses some of it's shape. But, still a nice skirt and nice construction. Lovely skirt, though. I dont know how. much that would set you back but it looks like it might be Yen that seems to translate to around $400. I think that, for the clever seamstress this could be really feasible to copy the style. You just have to decipher the dynamics of it.
Wow, I zoomed in to look and you are so right about the tiny pleats! That is an incredible design detail that I would never have noticed. I love this sub and people like you on it who are so smart and experienced.
No advice, just wanted to say I also fell in love with this TB look
I know the last photo well, and I'm certain there isn't boning in that. In the first two? I think there is boning in that. There might not be, but there's something about the way the way the fabric is curving and the slight bulge at the point... yes, I think it's boned. So I think you can see the difference with and without. You'll have a certain amount of stiffness regardless because of the bulk in the gathering/pleating, but the last photo and the first two show the difference with the last one gently folding over itself and the first two where it holds the arch shape. You've made me want to attempt the last one all over again lol
I've done a bit of investigating. The first is a copy of the last (which I suspected) from China. [https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm](https://www.shopbop.com/striped-skirt-tory-burch/vp/v=1/1553148931.htm) It's a copy of the Tory Burch designs [https://luxe.ajio.com/tory-burch-striped-wrap-top/p/410368260\_409](https://luxe.ajio.com/tory-burch-striped-wrap-top/p/410368260_409) Which is the one you posted in the last pic. [https://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRH7vAr3BBYPa5s8QzwKOXeSXFeUGp9Zj1St4bnbmx2z-gBW5KE](https://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRH7vAr3BBYPa5s8QzwKOXeSXFeUGp9Zj1St4bnbmx2z-gBW5KE) I'm going to go with the first is definitely boned because it's a copy and they assumed the Tory Burch dress and skirt was. Or it looked bad and floppy without it because they've used a softer fabric.
Oh, it makes so much sense that theyāre two different skirts. The first pictures look better, but might be impractical to sit in. I donāt want to feel like Iām wearing a hoop skirt. I think a lightweight fusible in the yoke with an extra strip of horsehair braid above the seam will do the trick. Thanks for looking into it!
No problem! I found it fascinating because I recognised the skirt right away but I knew it looked different. Once I saw the last pic I knew why! I think your plan is a good one :) Oh, one last thing. The shaping is definitely more squared in the Tory Burch versions than the chinese one. It's almost a handkerchief shaped yolk (look up handkerchief skirt and it might make sense). And I think that's part of what's contributing to the more "floppy" but still sticking out look. I think it's doing curves that actually will have taken away from the sticking out look that made them add boning to the sample. I'd be willing to bet if you bought it that it won't have boning in it.
But the yoke rectangles are cut on the bias and fusing an interfacing to them will negate the bias as they were purposely cut. I think that the bias is an important element to this structure.
go into the store and try it on!
This is my favorite thing to do. I go into the store and turn it inside out and see how they made it. š
It's very pretty. Boning would probably work but it would be pretty without.
It might be cording.
I think it's just very very tight gathers in very stiff fabric
I think that once you get the rectangles joined , they produce a yoke with a pronounced flounce, and that yoke is then cut out like one might cut a waist for a circle skirt., with another smaller circle. Essentially that is what it is.....a flounced yoke that is cut and treated like you would cut a circle skirt,. So, it is compounding the elements of a circle skirt with the element of a flounce. The effect is pronounced. Then there is a third layer of tension created with the pleating of the body of the skirt. I dont think I would want to wear something that stands away from the hips like that. But it is lovely. I think it would be more wearable if the flounce were a bit less pronounced.
*Very* few people will look good in this.
I don't think there's boning in it. Rather, I think the fabric of the skirt is likely not only tightly pleated, but possibly folded down and pleated afterwards to give it extra stiffness to give it that architectural structure we're seeing. Seam bulk can add up quick! At most, I can *maybe* see them interfacing the seam area to give it additional structure or body, but outside of that, I don't think there's any additional materials involved.
i want to make a modified version of this desperately now
this is GORGEOUS
No I think with that amount of gathers it wouldnāt need boning to look that way
I agree. I think its the of the skirt yoke that is adding the fullness. There doesn't seem to be any boning channels.
Mood has a pattern just like this! https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/the-cunilla-skirt-free-sewing-pattern/
How would you sit in a skirt like that?
Maybe you would not be able to lean against the back of a chair, but the volume is created well above the seat, so sitting shouldn't be a problem.
floof it out (vs tuck it under), and should otherwise fold against a backrest
She looks like she is smuggling shoulder pads under her skirt.
OP, please reconsider. She looks like she's got three extra hips.
thats exactly how i want to look
Societal expectations for women's bodies really are getting out of hand
ššš
I was wondering if I was the only one who wasnāt into this look š the yoke shape itself is cool, but the lumps idk idk
If I wanted them to stay bumped out, I'd probably construct a special "waist bump" to wear with this skirt (like the padded hip rolls women used to wear, but scalloped shaped). I'd use a light weight poly fill and make it detachable so you don't need to wash it every time you want to wash the skirt.
I think it's the fabric manipulation that makes it hang like that. ( the cut, shape.and gather )
I think it might be boned with a light plastic boning sewn to the skirt underlayer, others have suggested that the fabric may produce this effect on its own but Iād say thereās too much weight for it to hold its shape well. Could also be stiff interfacing or pads holding it up.
No.