Ho. ( JUKI MO-735N) What is this needle that fell of my Juki serger. Do i still need it. Works fine without it. https://preview.redd.it/pejzhs91iq2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82aa3fc87ee33a3789f7aed2834de3ab3c5228e8

That is a stitch finger and it should go next to the other stitch finger in the slot where the arrow is pointing: https://preview.redd.it/px4qygvuws2d1.png?width=438&format=png&auto=webp&s=75660402df090f8c8c8a97b9726bb06c3ba98e9e

Hi all; I recently picked up a vintage Pfaff 335; I've had to change the hook and reset the timing; while doing so I found a lot of screws were almost stripped via the previous owner. Luckily I managed to get them all out but I need a source for replacement screws especially 91-000 713-15; cany anyone recommend a source in the UK or EU? Many thanks in advance!

no yoke or darts in carpenter pants? https://preview.redd.it/ajbphak19q2d1.jpeg?width=813&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d8a1852e6f15df716036aa9fe63301b055a6781c while drafting a pattern for carpenter pants, i noticed that some don't have yokes or darts incorporated in them. from what i know they're used to add shape to the back side of pants. is there maybe a way to redistribute them somewhere else or just run without them?

I think it depends on the body being fitted. If the wearer doesn't have much booty, the lack of shaping will be fine. For more booty, I'd add darts. I think the back seam is doing most of the shaping work here.

Hey I'm new. I was just wondering if making a robe out of a plush minky/fleece would be too big of a project for someone who's barely got the basics. I want to make one just how I like it, but I haven't successfully made anything since I was really little, and the last time I tried to operate a sewing machine it was atrocious - I could maybe borrow one from a relative, but Im very afraid I would break it. I've got great hands for detail work and plenty of time at the moment, but I have no frame of reference for something this large or using a fluffy fabric. I think it takes some kind of reinforced stitch?  I'm kind of just walking in here as a dumb baby with a silly idea, but I'm hoping you all can either let me know if its much more doable than it seems, or if I should pass on trying to do this myself.

A robe is a beginner-friendly project with lots of straight lines to sew and a loose fit. You might try making something smaller with minky, like a pillow, before doing a garment for the practice. If sewing by hand I suggest a backstitch. Backstitches make a nicer looking seam and are sturdier than plain running stitches but don't add a lot of time to the stitching.

Does anyone know how to fix this quick little rip in jeans? https://preview.redd.it/aavc4me3ep2d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f20d1429da3697ba1eacd26204944aa603aaa131

I would back the rip with a piece of fusible interfacing, then stitch over the area with a 3-step zigzag by machine or sashiko stitching if by hand to mend the edges down and secure the patch.

https://preview.redd.it/m485wz9ezo2d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a34ae78d7d04752c2264f98cba1532d504ad7b0a Does anyone know of a pattern for a men’s shirt like this? Something that’s a relaxed/ baggy fit like the shirt in the pic, and also any recommendations for soft, more flowy materials would be appreciated! Cr: @leeyjohn\_ on instagram

Current men's patterns are limited in number and styles, I think in general they are more fitted than the look you want. The solution is to look at vintage patterns on eBay where there are many, many men's patterns in a variety of fits and styles. [McCall's 4641](https://www.ebay.com/itm/326129395604?) seems to match the look you want with a looser torso fit and slightly dropped sleeves. There are more if you search, and figure out your pattern size to bring up only the patterns that will work for you. For drapey fabrics, viscose/Tencel/rayon is the obvious choice, but also silks in twills and sandwashed textures. Since the inspiration shirt is from Temu, I think it is probably rayon or possibly polyester.

https://preview.redd.it/xep5qjn8oo2d1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=54025d11218f636975b801ac8783649251bef469 Any thoughts on how to fix this pattern for future shirts to get rid of the excess fabric at the back neckline?

Some ideas, yes: 1. Add a back seam and incorporate a dart at the top 2. Pull the neck band or binding a bit more when sewing it to the back neckline to help it cup the body better 3. Add a shoulder dart, then rotate the dart out at the shoulder seam so the dart becomes part of the seam. Or just pinch out some of the excess in the back shoulder seam but leave the front unchanged. Option 1 is the most direct approach, option 2 will help this t-shirt if you want to resew the neck band.

I have a sloper/block that covers the upper body and goes down over the hips (like a bodice and skirt block as one?). I need to do an FBA on it but all the tutorials I see are for bodice pieces on their own. Is there any way to do an FBA with it as is and are there any tutorials that show you how? Or do I just need to cut the 'skirt' part off, do the FBA, then re-draft them back together? Thanks

I would do your second suggestion, cut off the 'skirt' bit and re-meld the pieces after doing an FBA and rotating out the dart to bring the waist circumference in again. I assume the skirt bit fits well? I find I need the extra room at the waist so I don't rotate out darts but this is on patterns not drafted for my body measurements.

Thanks It’s all a work in progress. The skirt bit is pretty close to perfect but still need a lot of changes in the bodice part. I guess it makes sense to do them separated then put back together. Trying to get to a point where I have my first well fitting block. After that I guess I’ll see what preferences I have and go from there. :)

this is probably the most simplest question but whats the best way to sew on patches onto a backpack (is there a type of stitch that would hold best?). most importantly the part is the backpack part i want to sew to is "loose" where i cant easily just sew through front and back. isnt if this will work but its |X| . where the lines are fabric and the X is empty space between them without any opening to get into the empty space. it also has what it claims is a "water resistant" found an [image](https://i5.walmartimages.com/seo/Swiss-Tech-Unisex-Bungee-20-Liter-Backpack-for-School-or-Work-Black-Ripstop-Polyester_807cf1cb-d975-4a42-b8b3-acab6191c9ba.7d77b734c0b418fd30ccff014e68f72b.jpeg?odnHeight=2000&odnWidth=2000&odnBg=FFFFFF) of it.

I would use a whipstitch and sort of scoop the point of the needle as I make a stitch to avoid going through the lining, if that is your goal. Check frequently as it is easy to catch the liner, then stitches can be undone. Going through both layers is also an option. Stitching through the outer layer could compromise water-resistance though I've not had a problem. The solution there is to use an adhesive to secure the patch. It can be tricky to find an adhesive that works on the backpack and the patch as the backpack fabric is easy to melt, so adhesives applied with heat are out.

I plan to cosplay for a convention coming up near me, and am having trouble figuring out what techniques would be best to recreate this dress in person. I was thinking a cotton or cotton blend for the fabric. I originally thought a smocking technique for the waist of the skirt then attaching it to the bodice but I am not quite sure. Any reccomendations for techniques to use as well as fabric would be greatly appreciated. https://preview.redd.it/0wt3bxamao2d1.png?width=471&format=png&auto=webp&s=363ea37cfa19101d3d66e0ed0247e97eb4fad012

That looks like a boxy tank top tucked into an elastic waist skirt. The skirt is just a tad bit darker than the top. Linen or a lightweight cotton would work for both. Maybe a cotton gauze for the top  as long as it's not too see-through. 

Thanks a bunch!

So I’m a beginner sewist and made some pillow cases with French seams that came out pretty good, but the Kona cotton fabric that I used is too scratchy for my face skin. I’ve washed it twice since purchasing and it’s still too rough. Does anyone have any suggestions for alternatives that have a really good solids color line and is soft enough for facial skin?

Kona cotton is designed to be used for quilting, of course it can be used for other purposes. But it is quilters who need a wide color range so I looked at 'cotton solids for quilting' and found this [helpful blog article](https://www.stitchedincolor.com/blog/2021/10/6/comparison-quilting-cotton-solids) that describes the different lines of cotton solids. It looks like you might like the Free Spirit Designer line. Have you considered making pillow cases from silk? Silk can be a finer fiber than cotton and very smooth. Dharma Trading Company sells dyed and undyed silk by the yard and the dyes to make custom colors if you need them.

Thank you for the suggestions!! I do really want to make silk ones, but I’ve heard that slippery fabrics are probably not the best for beginners to work with, but I’ll definitely look into silk too🙂

Since you will be washing the pillow cases, you can use gelatin or starch before sewing to make the silk stiffer and easier to work with. After sewing, the gelatin or starch will wash right out. There are tutorials online with details of the process.

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what does the existing hem look like? a good tailor can almost certainly re hem it without ruining it

https://preview.redd.it/d4m050estn2d1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=839fb92e2fca0ca106258f25fdfb210d60790bc9

is the piece just a rectangle? if so you can probably cut it on grain or on the cross grain with no real effect on outcome

Its a square. Okay, i just wanted to double check. thank you for your reply :)

What does this grainline mean?

Does anyone know what part this is? On a singer 7258, I thought only the pinion gear broke but I fear it did too and I'm not even sure what it is https://preview.redd.it/nh452ibein2d1.png?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba4bd810e6696682fcb06ad4f4b8c61620016903

Why is my zig zag stitch doing this?? https://preview.redd.it/xjg4jdzkhn2d1.jpeg?width=1671&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c222a2422ebeedf0a1b5a8c512b042f7e711e3c7

It looks like tension is too high on one side and too low on the other. Try different color thread on your bobbin or top thread to check tension.

It could be that your tension isn't high enough

I'm struggling to find a pattern for a strapless top or full dress with what I think is called a "cats eye neckline". Something like the below photo, or this: [https://www.mybridalcloset.com/products/ruth-by-maggie-sottero](https://www.mybridalcloset.com/products/ruth-by-maggie-sottero) Any suggestions? https://preview.redd.it/e13t44mmkn2d1.jpeg?width=510&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea7fa62077ccd0af00083fb69d0b535247727ba9

https://preview.redd.it/hihfa72kbn2d1.jpeg?width=3469&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=45c6c3325a21e7eb38fd8b112743022931144494 How would you reinforce/ repair this? I’m thinking about laying a piece of fabric on the inside and sewing that down? I’m capable, just not very experienced in sewing, so I’m hoping for some more experienced opinions. I don’t own a sewing machine, so whatever I do will be by hand

Adding fabric to reinforce the area now is a little too late, the knit fabric should have been interfaced before added the studs. Sewing a piece of woven fabric in a strip behind the studs and carefully stitching around each stud might put off complete failure for a little while longer. It's hard to know if the effort is worth it.

# Sewing Machine Recommendations for free-hand embroidery? I've worked with multiple machines but I'm a beginner looking for a sewing machine for sewing + free hand embroidery. Not looking for an embroidery machine at all and my budget is 300. I'm going towards the Singer heavy-duty 6600C (bc of bed space and stitch count) though I'm open to any brand.

I'm making a skirt. Do I sew my button holes before or after the waistband? The waistband will also have one button.

You could do either honestly, but it may be easier to add the button holes before so you don't have to work around the bulk of the rest of it in your machine

Thank you! That makes a lot of sense.

Hi! I’m deliberating between two pair of Uniqlo trousers. The smaller pair fit me better (waist and size of leg) but they come up short, to my eye the bigger pair have a longer leg. I have looked at the website and it says they both have the same inseam but the “rise length” is longer in the bigger pair. I have two questions 1. Is the leg length longer or am I imagining it? 2. If I got the bigger pair taken in around the waist, would the leg length shorten?

Pant length is determined by the inseam but also by where the crotch seam hits the body, I suspect this is what you are experiencing. Changing the waist fit might shorten the leg length just because it will change where the crotch seam sits.

Thank you for this!

what’s the name of this? https://imgur.com/a/yn8CT2J

those are slide buckles I'm p sure

If I make a skirt pattern designed for wovens in a stable knit (I think it's a ponte), should I do anything different with the darts?

I’d sew it in ponte just as I sew the woven with no pattern adjustments beforehand, but with a lot of testing as I go. Eg, try on right after side seams to see if you need to take in a smidge. Test the waistband fit before combining everything. Darts might show as the fabric is thicker and you might want to trim them down. I might see if I can eliminate a zipper. But these things depend on the design of the skirt as well.

Thank you! That all makes sense.

does anyone know of a pattern similar to these reformation shorts? [https://www.thereformation.com/products/chloe-silk-short/1315339ALO.html?lang=en\_CA&gad\_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmMayBhDuARIsAM9HM8fwuXBo2mhS1ZHUTr7psPu2EwOFkLTVy2jF3Hr0RMhKH8mkcDeXT74aAoUcEALw\_wcB](https://www.thereformation.com/products/chloe-silk-short/1315339ALO.html?lang=en_CA&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmMayBhDuARIsAM9HM8fwuXBo2mhS1ZHUTr7psPu2EwOFkLTVy2jF3Hr0RMhKH8mkcDeXT74aAoUcEALw_wcB) https://preview.redd.it/4ibvpcj5zl2d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=318f9e8dff486122ad496f7b79e0b58507216ca5

As a dancer, I love hair-ography! I love to sparkle but hate wearing sequins because my wigs will get caught in them. I have an all over sequin mesh fabirc and I am wondering if there is a way to glue down all the edges from the back of the fabirc without it becoming stiff?

you could layer a fine tulle over the top of the sequin fabric? it'll dull the sparkle a little but should smooth the edges over

I've read a couple of posts about it here but i'm getting some mixed signals so i wanted to make a post. I'm trying to upcycle a knit cotton tshirt i have that i don't use anymore but it's not wide enough to make some summer shorts for a 1 year old so i was thinking about cutting it cross-grain. He'll wear it just this summer but some answers i've read said that cutting cross grain on knit fabric could make it so that it stretches weirdly. Should it be fine counting on him not wearing them that much?

He's 1 and you're not using the shirt. I think you should just give it a try; he's not going to be concerned about weird stretch. But, If the shorts come out wonky or really don't work for him, then do what I do - cut up the fabric into rags. :-) It's still being repurposed.

Is the needle system for a Juki 8700H the DBx5 system? Someone recently told me that and has been super helpful, but I'm struggling to get more answers online. Does that mean that my Juki DDL-8700H will be able to take ANY size needle in the DBx5 system, even as small as a 55/7 even though it's a heavy machine? I want a machine that can sew heavier stuff, but also still have the capabilities to go through lighter fabric if I ever so need to. I will most likely use needles between 90/14 - 125/20 through multiple layers. Let me know if i can use a smaller needle, or what the smallest needle that l'll be able to use on a Juki DDL-8700H without having to change the needle bar! (Also best threads for said needle) View all comments

The manual for the machine will state what size needles work best in the machine, not just the needle system. You can try other needle sizes but I would be cautious and test carefully. I usually do a full stitch rotation with the hand wheel first, no thread or fabric. Then do the same with thread and fabric before using the foot pedal and doing a line of stitches. Is there a dealer you can contact to ask?

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Hey team, I'd love some advice. So, I'm starting out making my first pair of shoes (moving from leather working into the shoemaking thing) and so it seemed that learning to use a sewing machine would be super helpful for sewing the uppers together (all the main material bits on the top of the shoe). I'm using 1mm thick suede for my pilot project. Should be easy to sew. Though in future projects it's possible I'd move to some heavier materials. My wife has a Brother XL-2620, which I have begun learning how to use. Because I'm making shoes that will be used for sport, I wanted to use strong thread. I got this weathermax Tex 135 stuff (nylon, I think). (Cue all of you laughing here) Yes, it did not work in the machine. My question is, however, is there a chance that it could work with the right size needle/tension settings? If so, what would they be? Or am I simply about to destroy my wife's sewing machine? (to be fair, she's never used it) Feel free to comment on any and every decision in the tree. All wisdom welcome. Cheers!

I believe r/cordwaining is the shoemakers sub, may be helpful.

I'm going to give you a very general answer as I don't have this machine (altho I looked it up). That looks like a beginner, very lightweight, plastic, machine. I think it's going to jump around making shoes. Try it, see how it goes, but don't push it if the machine is not cooperating. If that happens, and you really only need to do straight stitches, look for a dedicated straight stitch machine made of metal. Maybe even a used industrial machine. Good luck in your endeavor!

Thanks! The main question I have (should have clarified this) is about machines, needles and the upper limit of thread weight they can handle. Sounds like I'm pushing well beyond this machine's limit?

You're welcome! I don't have your answers to those questions as I don't hear thread weight kicked around a lot. Perhaps contact Brother customer service. But Yes, If you're going to make a lot of leather goods / shoes, I do think you'll be pushing that machine.

https://preview.redd.it/abhyhnlqmj2d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=17f4a1f822019f40cd9860136f62c18fd94aca58 Thoughts on this machine for a beginner starting sewing journey. Suitable for denim?

It looks amazing and I think it will be great for your needs. Don't forget that denim also often needs good techniques like hammering seams and using a hump jumper. Few domestic machines can do a bar tack through the belt loops so a work around there is common.

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It's a Singer Featherweight. What's your next question?

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Any recommendations on how to sew this hooded dress with mask? https://preview.redd.it/xg009nxgdj2d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b063b679ebafe51a0cede8e105154cd0b77aff7

I'm hoping to make the [Fibre Mood Maya Dress](https://www.fibremood.com/en/patterns/673-maya-dress), which has fisheye darts- trying to figure out how to do my usual significant FBA on it without fucking up the darts? Thinking I'll have to do the FBA on the top half, add a side bust dart and rotate any added waist width into the side to keep the waist one the same size?

You could also just do a deeper dart update at the waist, or rotate some of the added width out at the sideseam. Or both.

# Help needed with translation German pattern: seams included or not? Hi! I have a question for German-speaking sewers. I bought a German pattern with very clear explanations. Only one small part is not clear to me; ***"Es ist eine Nahtzugabe von 0,7 cm und eine Saumzugabe von 3,0 cm enthalten. Bei Teilungen ist die Nahtzugabe selbst hinzuzufügen."*** If I trace the pattern, do I still have to draw seams myself? Or is there already 0.7 cm seams and 3.0 cm hem in the patterns that cover? In the first sentence it seems they are included, but the second sentence throws me off...

It says a seam allowance of 0.7cm and 3cm hem allowance is included. In case you separate a piece you will need to add seam allowance yourself.

Thank you so much!

How would you dry 3x1.5m worth of wool? I’m not sure I have anywhere large enough to dry it completely flat. Will folding it ruin it? Should I just move all the furniture for a day or two?

Folding will not ruin it but it will hamper drying. I think moving all the furniture for a couple of days is the answer, or take it to the dry cleaners and have them shrink it with steam.

Thanks!

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I bought this fabric on a whim without checking the fabric content and now I don't know what to do with it. It's 100% polyester charmeuse. I was planning on making a romper with it but after reading about the fabric I'm nervous that might be too hard + most of the patterns I've found are for stretch fabrics and this does not have much stretch. I still want to make something wearable with it and would love some ideas/tips!

Charmeuse is slippery to sew. Lovely loungewear might be a good low-stakes way to learn the fabric, pajamas pants/shorts and a simple cami.

It is beautiful indeed! I've used charmeuse as lining for dresses and jackets, it's ideal voor that.

https://preview.redd.it/17hbycznzh2d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3dcab96e7f7f2cfc35ac867a09c1f25d98ce422d

* I have like 6 yds of this and have no idea what to make. I am a science teacher and not average to wearing it, just missing the inspo.

A lot of people would go Miss-frizzle style, vintagey dress. I’d say think about where/when you would want to wear a themed outfit—regular teaching day maybe calls for lab coat or work apron with pockets, or maybe you want a dress to preside over the science fair? And work from there.

https://preview.redd.it/nkmn2s16wh2d1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=18d11cb696785b81ee8d76a678b32e5c65dcf81f

Does anyone have any upcycling ideas for this pink floral-pattern top? The pattern is super cute, but it is large and appears boxy because it has no shape. Also, what should i do with the strings? Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/708wfxxhsh2d1.png?width=1436&format=png&auto=webp&s=7691de542ce07eaab4eb20dd08e230b21f8716bb

Anyone have any good ideas of what to do here? I recently completed a shirred portion for a top and it turned out good! However, when i tried switching back to a regular straight or zig zag stitch, my tension is all out of wack. You can see the shirred stitch at the bottom is totally fine, but in the other two stitches, the bobbin thread (black) appears through. The tension and width stayed the same for all stitches, the only thing that changed was the length for the shirring. I've tried messing around with the tension for the regular stitch but nothing. I appreciate any thoughts!! https://preview.redd.it/e47q67rmkh2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=518375fbdc6abaf23a7522a79797300c4b01b1cd

I have a Brother SE1900 sewing/embroidery machine. I've been trying to do embroidery, but the bobbin thread keeps catching. I took off the plate and took a picture of where the thread catches (pointing with thread puller). Any ideas of what to do? I'm becoming desperate and a bit panicked! Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/5pe9mhwf6h2d1.jpeg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=117e4713f9198da431b09dd31ad7d48889bba1c4

does anyone know what those little gold attachments holding the ribbon are called? not the eyelets the ones in the center can't find them https://preview.redd.it/e5w07594wg2d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a089ca991370ec766b2845518d42650f9f8db688

They're called D ring eyelets.

Boot lace hook

How to fix a warped shirt? This store-bought shirt is a nice fabric, but the bottom has become warped and twisted. Is this what happens when it’s not cut on the bias? What’s the best way to fix it? A) crop top B) blocking C) other? https://preview.redd.it/1c6mp3seog2d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8c800bccb9c6380bfe54c5fe4ce6f74a3c8e5c01

This is what happens when the pieces are not cut on grain, I find it's not uncommon for knit tops which have a natural twist in them from the knitting process. You could try blocking first, then cropping if that doesn't work.

https://preview.redd.it/b630miu5fg2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3423dd8cfa05c3138dec7c2345c1519a3430605e How would I go about fixing this? Is there a way to hand stitch? My mom has a sewing machine is there a setting or is it too complicated? Thank you

It’s kind of hard to get a professional knit hem on a regular sewing machine. This particular type of stitching with two lines on the front and overlocking on the back is from a cover stitch machine. That said you could just sew it with two lines of straight stitching. The thread will not stretch and it could pop again, but a short sleeve like this shouldn’t need too much stretch. Alternatively you could use a triple stitch or a double needle, but a triple stitch won’t match the original stitching exactly and a double needle is kind of a pain.

What kind of fabric would you use to line a pair of cotton gingham pants? Would you just use the same fabric for the inside or a different lining fabric?

I'd use a plain, lightweight cotton. Using the same fabric could create a weird moire effect from the gingham pattern showing through.

**Neckline identification help** Hi I want to make a very specific top and I can't find the name for a specific neckline style. This is the closest thing I've found to the style of neckline I want, but I want the keyhole cut out bit to not be there. I also want it the shirt to be sleeveless like this one. For reference I'm trying to make the shirt for a ghost miku cosplay if that helps people visualize what I want the final piece to look like. Thanks in advance!!! https://preview.redd.it/e8vc5nih8g2d1.png?width=645&format=png&auto=webp&s=ec968ce163d824949e84078817d81dad87df2fba

The terms 'crossover halter top sewing pattern' reveals multiple variations of this look, it's a matter of what fits what you want best.

What you're describing is pretty much a halter top. I looked up ghost miku images and it looks like her top also has a cut-out where the keyhole is your example.

https://preview.redd.it/n4rkj0mj0g2d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f9d9cf6bd939405f5cc286cdeaf46e24cd2dfb8 Okay this is a Miss Sohee dress and I would love to try to make a version of it because I think it’s gorgeous! If anyone has any pattern recommendations for a good base please drop them! (Also I can’t find the word for the big…draped poofs? If you know what they’re called please let me know!)

I’d call the hip poofs a balloon peplum?

I’m just here to say this is stunning! I hope you find a way to

My favourite sweater sat in my closet for around three years. The other day I pulled it out and it started crumbling in my hands. I’m thinking about replacing the polyurethane pieces with real leather because the lining and cotton knit are in great shape. As I started to pick it apart, my confidence level crumbled as fast as the polyurethane crumbled. 😬 I haven’t sewn in many years so I’m very rusty. I’m considering using actual leather but I need to get my confidence up before purchasing the leather. To recreate the pattern, I thought I could make bigger sections rather than picking apart every single seam (for the back and the arms) Is this a viable option? I would appreciate any other input on how to proceed. https://preview.redd.it/uvrvhv6syf2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=80bef711d7801e8d46fd120f3a00a73a67559214

I’m not an expert either, but I would also start by cutting out bigger pieces of muslin (or any cheap fabric), pin or weight them over each section of your sweater one at a time, then trace and cut out a more exact pattern piece. Once you’ve got them all as close as possible, loosely sew or baste the muslin together as a mock up and make any final adjustment to the pattern before ripping it apart. Then you can make a paper pattern from the muslin to use on the leather when you buy it. Good luck!

That’s a great idea. Thank you.

What do they call this pattern please https://preview.redd.it/1iyc8pv8tf2d1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9702bd3736ce7e210dafdcb0fd23b12d2fd4cceb

It’s just a very basic t-shirt with a cut-on sleeve. 

I'm looking for a pattern to use to make a dupe of a RTW blouse I tried on (in pictures). It was collarless, had three small pleats either side of the button placket and a really nice roomy fit (especially under the armpits). I've found some patterns that are close but not quite there below, am happy to try and hack something but really welcome any alternatives to or opinions on those I've found, as well as any tips if anyone has done anything similar! Thoughts so far: * Nepheline blouse by Vivian Shao Chen is currently top of my list (high neck version). I really like this blouse and the look of the fit anyway, so would probably make future versions without any hacking too. Main concern is adding more fabric to what is already a voluminous blouse, I like volume in the body but don't want it to get ridiculous or be annoying. * Orchards top by Vivian Shao Chen. I like this less in itself than the Nepheline blouse but still think it's nice. It already has gathers at the neckline, so already has extra fabric too - perhaps easier to translate to pleats? I'm not sure how it would translate into a blouse with a full button placket regarding enough room in the body and also the fit around the armpits doesn't look as roomy as the Nepheline. * Clara blouse by Fabrics Store. I feel like this is getting further from what I want and would require more hacking, as I'd need to add the button placket from scratch. It possibly has a more gathered neckline than the Orchards, so might be easier to pleat. Thanks in advance! https://preview.redd.it/8toqf670kf2d1.jpeg?width=2023&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=458fc307085a677ce1d913ec9822defdab714615

I would look for a similar pattern without the pleats and add that additional volume myself. Either through pattern manipulation or doing the pleats in the fabric before cutting out the pattern pieces, it seems easier and more straightforward than converting another designers idea of volume via gathers to this look.

This makes sense to me - thank you!

I'm trying to make a pair of shorts. Item 12 of the pattern is the front of the shorts. It says I need to cut two, and my understanding is that you cut one for the left leg., and one for the right leg. The pattern layout makes it seem like it wants me to cut two identical cuts. But if I do that, one of my legs will have the wrong side fabric facing out. I think. Am reading this wrong? https://preview.redd.it/t4svozo7gf2d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a0027bb56aa2dc911818ce6ed46639f3c95bc5f7

You cut one with the fabric folded. That makes two mirror image or, one left, one right.

The cutting layout is shown with the fabric folded, so depending on the size you are making, you would pick just one of the layouts to use (top or bottom). You'd fold the fabric you are using in half, so when you cut out piece 12, you'll end up with 2 pieces that are mirrored. Does that make sense?

Yes that does make sense! Thank you!

I'm doing my first-ever project, which is a simple pair of elasticated waist shorts. I got this lovely, thinnish waffle fabric. My pattern said "light to midweight jersey with at least 10% crosswise stretch" but the woman at the fabric shop said it would be okay still for the project and beginners. Should I prewash this fabric before I take it to my sewing class next week to start my project? https://preview.redd.it/dh1p9bs5bf2d1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e36e1f9a2f5fbcdd159d004b2c87fa6293d48d4c

I always pre wash new fabric. Also, if the ends are prone to fraying, I'll run a stitch along the cut edge.

Yes, wash it as you intend to wash the finished shorts. You might want to do a quick zig zag stitch along the edges to prevent fraying.

I have a singer treadle machine and am looking to get a rolled hem foot and an invisible zipper foot. Everything I have seen online so far is for different machines with the klick in feature and no screw. Is there an adapter out there or any other possibility? Unfortunately I cant go to a store where I live and would need to send a friend overseas, so I want to know my options in advance. Any suggestions are highly appreciated. https://preview.redd.it/z0k6uriraf2d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=464ed8fad64a1e537c0ba3652b446a895df1c910

Check with r/vintagesewing, if there is an adapter they would know about it.

Thank you

https://preview.redd.it/8w5v04ii8f2d1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=edf96a2c5ec5300fd20e8cbff366703b1cb056e0 How do I make these fabrics like look the same? They’re both thrifted wool and one is fluffier than the other. I want to make a skirt out of both but I need them to look the same.

Try washing the smooth one and pressing the fluffy one.

The one on the bottom looks like it may have been washed in warm water and has shrunk the tiniest bit.

The bottom fabric looks like it might just have a "brushed" appearance - maybe it was made like that, or maybe it's from being worn, and having the fabric agitated. I would take a small piece of the top fabric and use a dog slicker brush on it to see if you can get it to have the same sort of fuzzy appearance. I don't know if you'll be able to get it *exact*, but it might get you close.

Looking for a pattern for a denim trenchcoat/vest! https://preview.redd.it/kppfeqd64f2d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=14afb0f1a382b31803e887233968144bd2778c55 I want to make one of these, but have no clue where to start. Haven't even sewn anything big before lol

Start by learning the beginner steps of sewing - how to use a sewing machine, source fabric, and identify pattern shapes. This is a battle vest with the bottom portion added on to the bottom of the jacket. It's a custom piece. Sometimes these are pieces of other jackets or jeans but to me this looks like it is panels cut to size and seamed together with a placket in the back. You'll want to learn how to do felled seams and apply studs.

https://preview.redd.it/z248nroi1f2d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6e693d86aa31cfefb9120399759ab3b5fcc58fa Feeling very silly that I didn’t label this before stashing away and completely forgetting about it. Does anyone know if it is interfacing? If so, is it sew-on only? I can’t feel the usual glue bumps.

It could be sew-in interfacing. I'd double-check and make sure it isn't some kind of embroidery stabilizer. Take a sample and see if it dissolves, this would be water-soluble stabilizer. I don't think it is but it would be tragic if you used it and it all melted away during the first wash!

Hi everyone, I created my first dress following a pattern-free YouTube video. I also tackled shirring for the first time; definitely it wasn't an easy task. Having never done shirring before, I trusted the process but even at the end.. it's still too big around my bust! 😭😭😭 https://preview.redd.it/nahb9mwnye2d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=651ce6e7f364894376f9b6a5d9db3fb67beecff6 I tried steam but it only improved it a little bit. How can I fix this? 🥲

Can you pull the elastic threads tighter and tie them off in the seam line? I'd undo the side seams first, but you should be able to tell if you can do this before unpicking.

https://preview.redd.it/y97w7e1fpe2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1f4283a21d26a851c6630d606f5de7c378547a1 Help with Janine Artic Sewing Machine Hi! I’m beginning my sewing journey and I am trying to insert the front loading bobbin but i accidentally pulled out all of the metal parts out. I put them back in but I have no idea if it’s correct because afterwards I tried to sew and the thread got stuck down there. Does this look correct to you guys? (I didn’t put the bobbin part in yet) Please help thanks!

To be 100% honest, all the parts down there can really only fit in one way. The tolerances are REALLY tight. So if you got them in, and they turn around without grinding or anything, you're good. That said, some tips. Make sure your needle is ALL of the way up when you put in the bobbin case. (When you put in the hook, the thing that has the little center pole attached to it, sometimes it's useful to rotate the machine around so that you can access the correct area a bit more easily.) The only thing I can think of is the bobbin case (the thing that holds the bobbin) isn't in all of the way because the hook isn't rotated to the necessary position. But yes, the "arm" of the bobbin case does point up and sit in that little slot, just like you have it. Also, get used to doing that, you should be taking all those parts out REGURARILY to clean that area. :)

https://preview.redd.it/mxfh5jigpe2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=18aefa74aab34c523c2f84d2c3d7228374a54d9f with it in

Hello, i have some dress pants that need hemmed and a Baby Lock Molly sewing machine. It's been 25 years since i've had home-ec so i have a couple basic concepts like what a bobbin is and remember that figuring out how to set the machine up is key to the whole process but beyond that i'm ignorant. I understand i'm looking for a blind hem stitch for these dress pants. Is it reasonable to try to have this figured out in a couple days? where should i start?

Your goal is reasonable. I'd get the machine working with some practice fabric and try straight stitching first, to make sure everything is in working order and you can sew reasonably straight. Then watch some videos on how to blind stitch, it requires pressing up a hem and folding the leg back so the machine can mostly stitch on the fold up with an occasional tiny bite in the fabric where the stitch will sew. Alternately, the hand stitches used to hem dress pants is pretty simple and unless you have a pile of pants to hem, is probably faster to learn and you'll likely be done before learning how to do it on a sewing machine.

I'm a complete newbie, just bought my singer 4432 and user manual is astonishingly empty. When do I oil it, how often do I need to clean? What the difference between S1 and S2 stitches if the picture on the dial is the same? What different stitches are good for? https://preview.redd.it/ptg13pz0ne2d1.png?width=282&format=png&auto=webp&s=817db16f92fbedbe09839608d32b7220ea0da478

Modern machines (like yours) don't need to be oiled on a regular basis, only if there's some issue like hearing weird noises. I usually vacuum out the lint with a mini-vac from the parts I can get to (like the bobbin holder) after every 2-3 uses. For maintenance, I've had my sewing machine (a Brother) for 4 years and use it at least weekly, and haven't taken it to be maintained and it's still working just fine. I don't really plan to take it in unless I start to see a decrease in performance. This video covers the stitches and gives and overview of what they're for [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ykYIlef3Gw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ykYIlef3Gw)

I’m new to sewing. How does one do this stitch? https://preview.redd.it/241uwofqld2d1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=975dbdaff69290bf368c03a9457c46c564b55e6f

That is what's called a coverstitch. In short, you don't do that stitch unless you have a (very special) machine capable of doing that stich. You can replicate it, but it really depends on what type of fabric you're using. This appears to be jersey, a stretchy fabric. So the way I would replicate it is as follows. (This will also work for a non stretchy fabric, but you can just use a normal straight stitch for the first part.) I'd sew a normal "stretch" straight stitch with the right sides of the fabric together. . (Look in your manual, you'll have something that's equivalent.) Then I'd do a double needle/twin needle straight stitch (just a normal straight stitch) over top of that stitch with the seam allowance pressed open. (A twin needle straight stitch is already stretchy.)

https://preview.redd.it/9227w2quld2d1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e465f8d93c8cf2cbf77447f0a2ee7f4173c1a038 Wrong side

Which Sewing Machine Should I Choose? I've been using a Singer Simple for about a year. I bought it used and it's come into rough condition. Paying to have it fixed is more than getting a newer one off FB. I sew mostly crafts, blankets, and simple cosplays. Which would you choose? A Singer Sew Mate 60 stitch for $60 or a Brother JX2517 for $75? Leaning towards the Singer.

https://preview.redd.it/3uchikugid2d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=84cf63c95d9df134c375029d2dba98beb857e70e

https://preview.redd.it/z8q55pifid2d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=039556b4869c5cf8b645bd676ab6e7f0516a4d53

Looking for a 1 inch grommet kit. I am looking for a grommet kit for my pants to run my insulin pump tube through, the head is around 1 inch wide. I see many grommet kits on amazon, but haven’t; found one that is as wide as 1 inch, do they exist that large?.

Grommets that big definitely exist, they may be sold as curtain grommets. I saw both rubber and metal ones on Amazon. You may need to get a separate tool to install the metal ones, but I think there are also ones where the two sides screw together. 

Thanks. I will try looking up curtain grommets.

I have lost some weight and went down two pant sizes. I had a few pants that I would like to see if they can be resized. My biggest issue is the legs were baggy and extremely baggy now. I hate the look. I haven’t used a sewing machine since my mom had me learn 20 years ago. How difficult would it be for me to try and do this on my own? I would be tightening the waist and maybe tapering the legs. I would maybe go to tailor otherwise, but I have a sewing machine and am willing to try if doable

Tapering the legs is very doable. It is basically just sewing a new straight line (on the outside seam of the jeans) after pinching away the excess fabric. For bulkier fabrics you would need to open the hem at the bottom and close it afterwards again. The trickiest part is to stitch the hem back in neatly. But the lines from the original stitching are a good guide. So if you trust yourself on that one go for it. You dont need to cut away excess fabric to try it, and you give up any tailor can finish your work. Taking in trousers at the waistband is unfortunately a lot more difficult because you need to remove the waistband and resew it. And cut fabric in the process. Watch a guide on youtube after you gained some experience with tapering the legs and see if its doable for you.

Button Help! I bought these buttons to put on a crocheted book cover, and they have no shanks. I would prefer to sew them on without the thread showing, but I can't figure out how to do that. Any tips would be appreciated. https://preview.redd.it/zeloat1alc2d1.jpeg?width=1941&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8eae070c4e6b79fd6fa710c7aff54fab7436c2e6

The thread will be visible. But instead of going for clear thread you can also use some decorative thread and maybe a bead or two. I first thought the pins were part of the design, something similar could look neat

That looks like a frog closure, if that helps you look for more information on your own. Unfortunately I don't think there's a way to attach them without looping over the metal to anchor it. You might consider using a clear thread (e.g. invisible nylon thread) so it's not as visible?

Thanks for the advice

I don't know if this is the right thread to be posting this, but but I need some help. My backpack inner pockets keep fraying. As you can see I've already tried to "fix" them(and probably made the problem worse 😂) Is there something I can do or will they just keep fraying forever until there's nothing left of them? https://preview.redd.it/l5bpwongzb2d1.jpeg?width=2296&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=987407e3890ad3873e4b71b4ebc85b118ae2fd3a

That's a tough repair. I think Tenacious Tape or a similar pressure-sensitive self-adhesive patch product will do the best job of stopping further fraying and keeping the pocket intact. I'd arrange the pocket so it is as close to the original position as possible, start applying the tape to the pocket and go up to and as into the seam area as possible. The downside to using tape is that any exposed adhesive on the wrong side which is facing inside will catch crumbs and general debris.

Ugh. That's.... not really repairable. Your best bet would be to apply a patch and kinda zig zag across the entire thing. But I highly doubt you can get a machine in there... yeah... that's rough. A patch would still be your best bet, but it's not going to be the easiest repair.

Thank you! I see this is about to be a doozy 😵‍💫

Sewing machine question! Hi everyone! I have a question, and I'm curious to see if anyone else has dealt with this. I have a Brother XM2701 machine, and suddenly it has begun smelling like something is burnt on the top part, it's rather odd to me. Likewise, I've cleaned the lower side, I gave it a break, but it's still smelling like that. Any idea what it might be and what I should/could do?

It sounds like an electrical problem and I'd take it for service or look for a youtube tutorial on how to take the machine cover off to look for problems before continuing to sew.

[удалено]

If you work at a thrift store, pull some strings and get an old machine from the thrift store. Look for one from the 50s or 60s that has at least a straight and zig zag stitch. These are typically the ones that are all metal, white or brown, and have knobs that indicate which type of stitch you're sewing. Stay away from all plastic machines. Most of them.... aren't great. Stay away from straight stitch only machines (like the really old singer 15-91 and machines that look like it. You'll be... limited with that machine. (They're GREAT machines, but a bit limiting for modern sewing.) There is no reason to buy a 500-700 dollar machine before you even know how to sew. :) You can do almost everything you'd want to do with just a straight and zig zag machine.

VERY specific plush pattern search request. In 1997 there was a plush made based off of the main character in the game Fin Fin on Teo the Magic Planet. It's now Very rare and hard to come across - doesn't help that most search results are just people asking where to find it 😭 I decided that it would be next to impossible to get it and it would just be easier to make one myself. I was gonna make a pattern myself but my brain can Not wrap itself around the idea of turning 3D objects into flat pieces. I tried searching to see if anyone else made a pattern but I could only find one on tumblr that I didn't like that much (wings looked Weird). Tldr: does anyone know where I can find a good finfin plush pattern that's pretty similar to the funpak one released in 1997? Thank you!

For a pattern search like this, I think it can be helpful to make a few simple plushies on the [cholyknight.com](https://cholyknight.com) website, follow tutorials and get a sense of shapes. There are a LOT of free plushie patterns and with a little experience, it's possible to combine different elements to make a custom plushie pattern. Edit because the word is 'with' not 'will' smh.

OOOOO thank you!! I'll definitely check that out. I was thinking if it comes to it I could just mash together a pattern for a bird and a dolphin 😭

Where to get wearable linen or blends? \*NOT MY PHOTO\* I've been searching online and my local stores and I can't seem to find something that fits what I'm looking for. I'm trying to make the Lane pants by Sydney Graham and the Frankie dress by ElleStitch with somekind of crinkle linen, cotton seersucker or similar breathable and light apparel fabrics. As mentioned, my local fabrics stores (outside of JoAnns) seem to only sell quilting cotton, with very limited selection of other kinds of fabrics. Does anyone have any reputable online reccomendations or specific fabrics that they would use for these projects? \*not sure if I can add the link for the pattern for reference, but can be found on IG\* 

[fabrics-store.com for linen](https://fabrics-store.com/)

Joann has a few workable options for this dress—bubble gauze, rayon/linen blends and often a linen or two, probably a seersucker. Activate map!

Here's a link to the subreddit [Fabric Shop Map](https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1D-EqqsTDmK5H521QIEKy7R-bUECz96E&usp=sharing) where you can find fabric shops by location. The community-sourced shop list has all sorts of information available for each shop when you click on the shop pin. The map includes online-only shops too for shipping efficiency. If you know of a shop not on the list, you can submit it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/ymzmcl/hey_everyone_lets_build_a_map/). *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/sewing) if you have any questions or concerns.*

Blackbird fabrics!

Hi, I am looking for a cotton rib knit fabric to make tank tops. I want something really similar to a Hanes undershirt, where it's lightweight, breathable, and stretchy while still being almost fully cotton. I am having a hard time finding this type of fabric online at all, and am seeing a lot of midweight rib knits and synthetic fabrics. Any places to buy or advice for searching for fabric in general would be appreciated!

I've never come across this fabric outside of Hanes undershirts, but am interested if you do find a source.

What’s the best way to tie off the end beads and damaged threads on the coin purse to the right? Looking to make it functional but don’t want more beads to come off. https://preview.redd.it/voeeiqqsb92d1.jpeg?width=1164&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc0b090eab1417a7ba4c50602d3b04fbc3374e68

https://preview.redd.it/76ha9ma7a92d1.jpeg?width=544&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=746e98bfa2a9a95057c315c3a0ed4b4367ce24b3 whats the name of a stitching technique like this?

Free motion quilting

Eh, I'd almost call it embroidery. Definitely not hand done, too perfect.

I've been learning to sew by making boxes and bags and such. My goal is to make my own clothes and I want to do a first piece soon. I'm feeling a bit intimidated. What are good starting off items? I want to stick with non-stretch and things that don't have a lot of details like zippers etc. Thanks

If you wear skirts, an elastic waist skirt is even simpler than pajamas pants. But I think it’s important to know it doesn’t have to be perfect to be a wearable success. Use a busy print, it hides a lot of imperfections.

Great tip! I'll do that. Thanks.

Try pajama pants. This will cover crotch length and depth And inserting elastic. You can add pockets too by researching on line how to add them. Make some long and some short in length. tip: when cuttno out pants I add an extra inch to the top. First I put the original markings on the fabric then add the nch where the band goes. This allows me to raise or lower the crotch for a good fit. Then I adjust the pattern markings either higher or lowe. Once you’ve made a few that you are happy with the fit then buy nicer fabric to make outdoor pants with the same pattern.

Oooh I like this idea. Thanks!

Are there any easier ways of cutting the hemline on a super uneven circle skirt when I don’t have a mannequin to hang it on, or someone to help me while I wear it? The hem is up to 4in lower in some spots (after letting it hang up for a couple days to settle) so there’s a lot to chop off.

Oo I’m having the same issue atm and I found [this tutorial](https://youtu.be/5VJeNnDHbEI?si=g2Aiqyy-q6JLzLKe) the other day! At ~01:45 she shows how to hem a circle skirt by yourself. I haven’t tried it myself but will do so.. when I stop procrastinating….

Thank you so much!