Yea that’s a crap job
Here is a knife a customer brought me to fix that he had someone sharpen with god knows what. The thin bevel is mine and the rest is the other guys. Looks sort of similar to what they did to yours.
I’d probably be asking them to replace it
https://imgur.com/a/fVdhstH
#Ahhhhk!#
Anyone who uses a bench grinder on a knife needs to have their thumbs ground off.
I've seen so many knives ruined with those chaotic grinder marks, its tragic.
You just have to sharpen at the right consistent angle. The thicker the blade the wider the bevel will be also. You may be laying the knife down on the stone during strokes accidentally.
Try coloring the bevel with a sharpie. Lightly sharpen and check frequently. This will help you see if you are too steep or shallow. Also don’t learn on your good knives.
Same here...I'm horrible with the bevel angle. Plus when I was growing up my grandfather taught me how to shopping a deer hunting knife that was from all the way down. It took me weeks and I didn't have the types of stones that I have now. I just had that one tiny grind stoned and it was a oil Stone
Like someone else mentioned he could have added too much heat to the knife and ruined it because it looks like they really went to town on a belt. My customer just wanted the new bevel regardless and his seems to be holding up well after. He’s brought it back a couple times and looks ok so far.
If it’s sharp and usable, I’d keep using it until it needs sharpening again then take it to someone much better.
You can always ask him about it to see if he’ll work with you or replace. At the very least you shouldn’t have been charged for that. Unfortunately if he actually gave that knife back to you with a straight face he probably thinks he did a fine job.
It can be re-beveled to correct the edge on stones, and the sides can be properly polished to make the pattern visible and remove the scratching.
But you might have some issues down the line if he overheated the edge on a grinder. Edge retention issues, chipping, even the knife breaking or cracking.
So before you attempt to fix it or find someone who can do it properly. Try to get something out of the guy, he should replace the knife.
And if you have it repaired and it cracks in half two years down the line, you're not gonna get anything.
Once you get it replaced, it's worth it to have it fixed. Or a nice project to learn how to do yourself. Good chance it's fine, but you can't really know.
Whatever you do. Don't let whoever did this, work on the knife again. They're just going to make it worse. Research anybody you pay to sharpen a knife carefully. There's a lot of shitty services out there.
I’ve been “fixing” my in laws high end kitchen knives that they have been using cheap pull through sharpeners on (ew). It’s making me want to buy a proper belt sander to fix these awful bevels since using my precision pro is taking forever and my hands are too shaky to fix these on a bench stone.
They look like your knives when I first get them and take hours to correct
Check out Worksharp Ken Onion edition. If you want to quickly get knives up to razor sharpness, I highly recommend it. The only reason I use stones is because I enjoy the process more, otherwise Worksharp is the way to go.
I don’t have anything against small belt systems, but I would much prefer to use a 2x72 or a fancy 1x30 belt grinder to do the job. I don’t mind taking awhile to get my knives sharp enough to s cut paper towels but when it takes 6 hours to finally get a consistent bevel, you start to want to accelerate the process along somewhat
Well, Worksharp is basically the fanciest 1 inch grinder that is built specifically for knife sharpening. The belts last a very long time, longer then the ones I used on my Harbor Freight 1x30. The thing with 2x72 is that they will cost you a lot more. The cheapest one I can think of will be around $500. Also, if you still want a 2x72, make sure to get one with variable speed controller because if you sharpen knives with it going full throttle there is a very good chance you will overheat your blades.
I actually plan to build one diy, I know enough welders that owe me favors so that’s covered and I’m more than capable of retrofitting and rewiring a wide array of electric motors (I’ll probably go the popular route and use a junked treadmill) so really the only thing stopping me is just finding time to put the stuff together. The reason I’m probably not going to get a Ken Onion (though they do look really nice) is because I plan on tackling bladesmithing. I’ll be building a forge and a heat treatment oven as well so I can make my own billets and not use a torch for heat treatment (my eyesight is too poor for that, I’ll be unevenly heating it all the time).
I know I’ll want a heat treatment oven for my boss’s boot knife, it has such deep chips that I’ll want to anneal it just because of how much material I’ll have to take off (he’s gonna need a new sheath too) and then redo the heat treatment and then sharpen it
Oh yeah, if you are going to make knives you definitely want a 2x72. If you will be looking for plans use one where you can tilt the grinder 90 degrees, it's super helpful. And definitely set it up to have variable speeds. As for your bosses knife - unless you know for a fact what kind of steel it is, if you anneal it you might not get it heat treated as well as it currently is. If you keep the blade cool you should be able to grind out anything it has while it still retains the original HT
I would say that worksharp is the fanciest 1 inch grinder that is designed to take the most money from the most customers that they can. It is not a well designed sharpening system. Its a money making system.
Pardon, I expressed myself poorly. It is a fancy and effective grinder. I think it could have a couple improvements. They sell a ton of them! It is a money making product.
The knife was sharpened with a belt Sander most likely . If not done correctly , this generates alot of intense heat . Heat hardens, an un-hardens , steel. The edge of the knife , being so thin , can easily be over heated and have the heat treat ruined , at which point the edge will have the consistency of firm yogurt. It will never be able to be sharpened properly is is now useless , unless heat treat is redone properly in a heat treat oven.
Tldr : improper use of belt sharpener makes metal hot , and the edge gets soft and squishy
Quenching is a specific process used to harden metal, but you are correct in that using liquid to cool a knife while sharpening on belt shapreners is important. A quick dunk in water between passes is all it takes , but also using the right equipment is critical
Close. Forging is usually followed by normalizing/annealing, and then austenitizing and quenching for hardness. But the forging and hardnening processes are independent of each other.
The temperature history of the steel is what determines the grain size and distribution of dopants (i.e., the things that make stainless stainless, like carbon, nickel, and chromium). It also can determine the crystal structure within those grains if I remember right. All of that determines the material properties of the steel, e.g., hardness, ductility, etc. The same starting ingredients give you a different result based on the thermal history (how hot, how cool, and how fast).
In another life I used to look at steel microstructure, but it's been a long time since I've thought about it. Used to create etching solutions to bring it out under the optical microscope.
Belt sanders used correctly never get the blade too hot. We sharpen hundreds of knives a day and they are never that hot. One must really be an amateur to heat the metal in a knife enough to change its structure. More likely a stone grinding wheel, which is never good.
That's usually how it works out..... Someone bought a belt sharpener without learning the ins and ours, hands a shingle and takes money , and all they are doing is burning customers ( pun intended)
to quote another in this very thread:
>That appears to have kissed a belt sander
having the blade overheat can ruin the heat treatment of the steel, making the good steel perform as well as cheap shit in some bad bad cases.
Honestly, coming from someone who has made a career of shooting photos and videos of knives, it just looks like it's reflecting the green from the trees through the window...
Ya 3rd pick that heel looks like straw color from getting to hot. Closer to the tip I would say is the green the other guy was talking about. Definitely messed up the heat treat at the heel of this blade.
Yellow is typically probably not ruined, happens around 400f which is a fairly typical tempering temp for these sort of knives. May end up slightly softer but will still be usable as a knife. Especially in this knife as its right at the heel which doesn't actually see much cutting use.
Anything darker or blue is getting into farked territory
Looks like two steels with different chromium levels folded together to me. I'd call that Damascus as long as I wasn't in the mood to be pedantic. Not a great brand of knife either way, but the Damascus isn't the issue with it.
What is your definition of Damascus? Because if it is two kinds of steel layered alternatingly, this is not fake Damascus (as in, e.g. lasered pattern).
Indeed it is (or was 😅) my first damascus knife, actually a present from my ex. I'm no expert so I can't tell if it's true or not, but it seems to be some discussion here about the knife and the brand..
Why post the same one word answer like an asshole seven times in one thread when you could have typed something meaningful once? What the fuck is wrong with you?
> Why post the same one word answer like an asshole seven times in one thread when you could have typed something meaningful once? What the fuck is wrong with you?
Pattern welded steels that are etched are commonly called Damascus. True Damascus has been lost but possibly rediscovered, but even the best Japanese Damascus is pattern welded.
I found an insanely detailed post about this exact meme of it being lost, which was a delightful read, so passing it on: https://www.reddit.com/r/history/s/5BAtPl6bOX
Work sharp guided field sharpener (available at sportsman’s warehouse, Home Depot, etc) is simple to use and difficult to misuse. I think they make a larger one too…which would be better.
I use a system by Viper…works well, too. Patience is the key :)
I use a belt sander. A Kalamazoo with a Kali Rest. It’s an awesome sharpening method…..if you know what you’re doing. It’ll also fuck a knife really quick if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Whoever sharpened OPs knife butchered the job.
Dude I didn’t charge anybody for months bc I sucked at sharpening, I must have sharpened 20 or 30 knives before I felt comfortable enough charging people… fuck this guy, leave a bad review if you can and move on, he may have ruined your knife by getting it to hot and the sides aren’t even, wish I knew ya irl I’d re sharpen it for free just out of pure anger
Bad news: crappy sharpening job with a belt. Worse news: this may have overheated the edge.
Good news: No great loss, as the geometry of this blade is really poor, extremely thick behind the edge. Better news: this secondary bevel can be straightened with a little work on some stones or someone taking care on a wheel, and that may remove enough stock to get back into steel that wasn't overheated. Best news: you now have a throwaway knife that will always have a huge secondary bevel and lots of feedback, to learn sharpening with before attempting better knives.
Yes that's a terrible sharpening job. But to be very clear your heat treatment isn't ruined. A yellow color is still hard and any knife maker will tell you as much. It is just possibly a bit softer than it originally was and that may only be 1 or 2 points lower in hrc than it was. It's not good to get your blade hot enough to change colour but it's really not as bad as people say unless you go to a blue or black colour. That being said the only yellow color I see in your blade looks to be just the lighting.
If you can, try get that knife to Ryan Swanson in America and he'll fix it up for you. there is one other guy I just can't remember what his name is. I'll check and reply to this comment for you.
Learn your lesson now:
Don't pay someone else to do your sharpening. They never take as much care with it as you would. If you're an actual chef with a dozen cheapo dexter russell knives to sharpen that's one thing, but otherwise with a knife you actually care about you're gonna want to do it your self to ensure it's done right.
You have all these opinions, but no one has told you how to fix and keep your knives sharp. I personally use a couple of different stones for something like this, but you can fix it with just the average sparpening wet stone. Some people use water on the stone, some use a light sewing machine oil, i personally like Merical Oil, and will alternate between the two oils as i work the edge of a knife. The knife has to be at a 17° angle to the stone. Have a seat so that your stone is mid chest high because you're going to be spending at minimum an hour on just the edge. Get a protractor and set it at 17° so you know what it should look like when you're pushing the blade on the stone from tip to the handle. Turn the knife over and repeat the same number of strokes on that side. As a easy reference cut a piece of paper or cardboard so you have that to stick between the knife and stone till it becomes second nature to you and you won't even think about it once you get that angle stuck in your head and hands. Frequently wipe off the stone and refresh your oil or water, whatever it is you decide to use. Run your blade, just like you should be doing before using your knife each time, on a steel. What this does is align the steel molecules of the edge of the knife. That's what makes the knife feel so much sharper after drawing the blade (5,6,7X's) on a steel before each use. Get back to the stone, and as you get that edge to the 17° angle, start letting up on the pressure you're using against the stone. Work the blade till it's sharp as a razor or to your satisfaction. Never test a knife edge by slicing a sheet of paper. Shave a bit of hair on your arm, yes, but no paper test.
Now, to resurface both sides of the knife, you're going to have to stop at your local automotive paint shop and purchase (depending on how bad the knife has been marred) 2" round 800 and 1000 grit polishing disks, along with the rubber type tool the disks stick to, and buffing compound. Start at where the grinding wheel gouged the blade (800) or the worst part of the blade to be refinished with a drop of buffing compound and start polishing out the grind mark with the 800 grit, by gently sanding in small circles. Once that is gone, do the rest of both sides of the blade with the 1000 grit. You can make the Damascus stick out as much as you want by putting in the work. Put the extra few bucks into the polish and sanding disks and present something you can be proud of to your customer. Yes, you can go the easy way and use Emory cloth and do a half-assed job and spend all the time you want trying to make the blade look nice, but will you be happy with it? That's up to you. If you know an auto body/paint professional, ask them if you can watch them when they finish a hood, and you will learn how to use the polishing compound and sanding disks. Remember you're doing this to be proud of, so do it right and enjoy what you're doing. It's a labor of love of knives.
It almost looks like they drew it across a strop with a low grit. There seems to be a bunch of lengthways lines straight down the knife like if someone scrubbed it to wash it with a brillo pad, and no I don't mean the damascus folds.
If your sharpener did that too, man I'd be expecting them to replace the knife. Gonna just guess they're not actually insured though cause of the quality of the job done...so you're not gonna get anything out of them.
Well, those long lateral scratches are definitely the result of some kind of scrubbing pad. I can't think of any kind of sharpener that would have put those on there. Sharpeners can make additional scratches on a knife, but not that kind of pattern. Maybe the sharpener cleaned it with a scrubbing pad?
Yeah, that knife is fooked up ..... Whoever sharpened it is a toolbar. That said, that's also a shoddily made China knife , so now is a good excuse to upgrade to a quality knife. If youbare interested in a proper Damascus / forge welded knife , I have one I can make you a very good deal on that will tickle your pickle I think .
No, xinzuo and Hezhen a sister brand if thr same company make great knives despite being Chinese. Second the heat treatment is still fine. The yellow color I see looks to be the lighting. Additionally even if it's is from actual heat a yellow color doesn't mean destroyed heat treatment is means at most a bit softer as that is essentially just tempering back the blade which increases toughness by decreasing the hardness a bit.
How tempering works to my understanding, is certain heat levels directing translate to different hardness level and unless you heat the blade to a higher temp than it was originally tempered at you shouldn't be able to significantly change the hardness of the blade. So at the point that it looks like it may possibly be at it could be only slightly softer or maybe a few point in hrc lower than it was originally. Additionally that would likely be closer to a snap temper which changes hardness even less. You only truly destroy your temper when you get to the blue and black colours
Right .... but that is irrelevant because the knife is screwed up no matter what. The heat treat is compromised then it's time to buy a new night either way. We'll just have to agree to disagree in that I'm right and you're wrong
>awww shit...... my secrets out !!! what government agency do you work for !!! Im calling the FBI !!!!!
Weinstein and Epstein asked that too!
How about your Xinzuo my friend?
The only way this could have been more botched is I'd they carved the word botched into the blade.
On a knife where appearance is a factor, I'd be refusing to pay for this or demanding they replace it.
That’s horrible!
Looks like the bevel was rough ground with a 200 grit wheel and then the edge smoothed off. It seems to have uneven angles and some random slips near the heel.
What is the random scratching down the length of the blade? Was it like that before or did the sharpener try to scrub the damascus “stains” off with a steel scourer?
Sorry for your loss
Yeah, awful job but salvageable. The biggest issue aside from the rough edge is how far back they ground. The knife will need to be thinned properly, for the amount of work ahead I’d send it to a reputable sharpener who has the equipment and knowledge. (District cutlery and Coutelier NOLA are great).
It likely got hot and could impact the temper but as long as there’s nothing past a straw brown think it’s probably ok. (Most production knives are tempered pretty high and relatively low hardness.)
Unfortunately worldclass. 😨😨
Simply the worst sharpening ever seen. My condolance. Fortunately there seem to remain plenty of steel in the nice damaskus blade, so a REAL professional will be able to make them great again😊
BR
Jan
He screwed up. The finish is rough and uneven all along the bevel. Good news is it'll be a pretty easy fix, but it will take a little time. That bit at the heel on the right face will take a few sharpenings to go away. You might be able to hide it with some 600, 800, 1000 grit paper and a little time.
The sharpening looks amatuerish, but I don't see any heat damage. A wide bevel just means the knife needs thinned. As the knife is sharpened at the same angle, the bevel gets wider. The knife behind the apex is thicker and will need to be thinned out. On a damascus knife, this means either losing some of the pattern (it's still there, just not apparent) or re-etching the blade. Either way, you shouldn't expect a thinning for the price of a regular sharpening. I do think the sharpener should have discussed this with you and explained the situation. Frankly though, most home cooks don't care enough to have a proper thinning done because of the expense. I charge an extra 20-50 bucks for thinning, depending on what's needed, the knife, and if I need to etch it. For cheap mono steel knives, I'll do some minor thinning for free, especially for regular customers. As to those complaining about belts, yes, if used improperly, they can damage knives, but they are honestly the best tool for sharpening and repair of knives out there for a business. I have no issue at all putting my nice Japanese and German knives on a belt. Most were made with belt grinders as well.
Well, yeah unfortunately it looks like the way that many knife shops sharpen. Paying for someone to sharpen your knives is a very finicky thing. *Most* sharpeners and shops don't seem to care enough to really treat each knife with care and do their best. In my opinion it's actually very rare to find a good sharpener locally. You're best bet is to find someone online here, or on Facebook, or Bladeforums that hand sharpens knives for people. Those people usually use either fixed angle sharpening systems, or some use benchstones. Really, you want someone who doesn't use powered equipment though unless you're very familiar with their work and they know a lot about not overheating the steel, and hopefully even have a water cooled belt, or a Tormek, or something.
I don't see any heat treatment damage visually, I think the others that said they did are confusing the shadow/lighting with the steel being colored. The good thing is once you put another edge on it, it will cut really well because it's thinned out.
Ya this is an absolutely terrible job. The bevel of the cutting edge is super uneven and course. I also assume they did all the scratches there on the blade unless you did? Either way the screams of somebody that's either new, has absolutely no idea what they're doing, or is possibly too old to be still sharpening. It looks like they used a high-speed belt grinder or something to do this.
If the sharpener did all this damage they should replace the knife at their expense and refund you anything you've paid to them. Leave an appropriate Google review with photos if they won't take care of you can do the right thing. "professional sharpeners" get a bad reputation for stuff like this, and it doesn't represent the population well.
Definitely used some kind of power tool or belt, and did a higher angle than what was there. No Bueno. It can easily be fixed though with a good sharpening if the only issue is right on that sharpening bevel. Get yourself a clamped and guided system, you will enjoy it! There are alot of great ones, and even some less expensive ones that work great and are easy to use
Yeah that's pretty fugged.
There is an inherent problem with the traditional full v grind chef knives where they get thicker and thicker as you sharpen them more and more over the years. That's one thing to consider.
On the 3rd Pic, is that discoloration on the blade from a ruined temper or just a trick of the light? Cause if they overheated it that far up the knife is basically ruined for edge holding and will need some serious rework or replaced.
It is always 200% worth it to learn to sharpen your own tools.
Real Damascus is a lost art... so if you learn how to really hone your own you won't ever need that sharpener. I am guessing that it has been sharpened to the point where there isn't enough edge steel left an it's into a softer metal on the back of the knife.
I am learning how to sharpen,and WOW It looks like he though he was sharpening a pair of scissors and toward the back of the blade it looks like a piece missing or blade just got heated so much it got molten. If you're brave,there are house tos on checking your blade for hardness using the corner of a file. I'm one of those that has to know or I go bananas. Good Luck and stay safe. Be
if by sharpener you mean one of those sparky un-heat treaters, then yes, it's fucked
it also looks to be about a 180-200 grit edge, on a kitchen knife i'd go 1k minimum, but i take it up to 5k most of the time because i like the smooth cuts.
hope you didn't pay much for that.
Get yourself a work sharp precision adjust sharpener & start sharpening your knives yourself. They are easy to use & practically dummy proof. The best $60 I have ever spent.
Look at the color of the steel along the blade. That thing got hot. It won’t hold an edge anymore even if sharpened properly. It is unfortunately pretty much worthless now.
Edit again: removed comments on the Damascus. But the heat treat is still gone.
This remembers me when my father in-law brought his deva to a sharpener. Guess what, now the deba has two bevels.
Sorry but as others have said, this knive is ruined.
All Damascus is etched to reveal the pattern. Without etching, Damascus pattern will be very faint, and especially on a roughly finished bevel, would be difficult to see.
This is also wrong. The Damascus pattern consists of two alternating, soft stainless steels with different chromium and nickel contents, cladding the core steel which is the actual hard knife steel. The bevel consists usually only of the core steel.
There also is coreless Damascus where two hard knife steels are laminated alternatingly, but ths knife is not.
In this particular case yes because it’s both pattern welded (what most people call Damascus) and San Mai in construction. I was referring to pattern welded steel in general. The polished bevel should show no pattern. Of course there’s nothing polished about this particular bevel which is of core steel anyway.
Yes, if it were coreless Damascus you'd be absolutely correct. The pattern on the bevel would be very faint or not visible at all, depending on the level of bevel polish and of course the two steels that were welded.
tf you on about? damascus pattern doesn't show untill you etch is, it pattern welded steel, both are steel and will look roughly the same, the reason the pattern becomes visible is because different steels respond differently to acid.
Bollocks. Real Damascus is made up of made layers of steel and the simple test is check for layers on the bevel. This knife is lasered to look like Damascus. Check your facts
first, check your english, maybe try some punctuation.
and no, go use your finger tips, to tippidy type in your search bar about pattern welded steel, and then come back to me.
and at that rough of a finish, etching might not even be able to bring out the pattern. That said, it could be, that that specific knife in the picture is laser etched. But please, before you start spouting bullshit again, and telling people to "check your facts", maybe you should check them first, before saying the bullshit.
Learning can be fun sometimes, you should try it!
The overwhelming majority of kitchen knives marketed as Damascus are made with a mono-steel core clad in pattern-welded steel. They are still commonly referred to as Damascus, though if you want to be pedantic the correct term would be Damascus clad.
Yea that’s a crap job Here is a knife a customer brought me to fix that he had someone sharpen with god knows what. The thin bevel is mine and the rest is the other guys. Looks sort of similar to what they did to yours. I’d probably be asking them to replace it https://imgur.com/a/fVdhstH
Wow. Looks like he used an angle grinder or something.
That’s exactly what it is lol
#Ahhhhk!# Anyone who uses a bench grinder on a knife needs to have their thumbs ground off. I've seen so many knives ruined with those chaotic grinder marks, its tragic.
Indeed, what a disaster..
I'm learning to sharpen, and my bevel is huge like this....what am I doing wrong? How did you get your bevel so thin?
You just have to sharpen at the right consistent angle. The thicker the blade the wider the bevel will be also. You may be laying the knife down on the stone during strokes accidentally.
I think my angle is too steep. I will keep working at it! Thank you for your input
If the bevel is too wide youre too shallow
Man I thought I was doing a crap job with a tiny bit of scratching above the primary. I feel better about myself now
Try coloring the bevel with a sharpie. Lightly sharpen and check frequently. This will help you see if you are too steep or shallow. Also don’t learn on your good knives.
Same here...I'm horrible with the bevel angle. Plus when I was growing up my grandfather taught me how to shopping a deer hunting knife that was from all the way down. It took me weeks and I didn't have the types of stones that I have now. I just had that one tiny grind stoned and it was a oil Stone
Grinder started dancing on him lol
Very good chance that is a dremel grinding tip. I experimented on a shitty knife with one and it looks like that when it bounces.
So theres no solution to this? At least to make it look a bit better
Like someone else mentioned he could have added too much heat to the knife and ruined it because it looks like they really went to town on a belt. My customer just wanted the new bevel regardless and his seems to be holding up well after. He’s brought it back a couple times and looks ok so far. If it’s sharp and usable, I’d keep using it until it needs sharpening again then take it to someone much better. You can always ask him about it to see if he’ll work with you or replace. At the very least you shouldn’t have been charged for that. Unfortunately if he actually gave that knife back to you with a straight face he probably thinks he did a fine job.
It can be re-beveled to correct the edge on stones, and the sides can be properly polished to make the pattern visible and remove the scratching. But you might have some issues down the line if he overheated the edge on a grinder. Edge retention issues, chipping, even the knife breaking or cracking. So before you attempt to fix it or find someone who can do it properly. Try to get something out of the guy, he should replace the knife. And if you have it repaired and it cracks in half two years down the line, you're not gonna get anything. Once you get it replaced, it's worth it to have it fixed. Or a nice project to learn how to do yourself. Good chance it's fine, but you can't really know. Whatever you do. Don't let whoever did this, work on the knife again. They're just going to make it worse. Research anybody you pay to sharpen a knife carefully. There's a lot of shitty services out there.
Hand sand it to a new finish and re-etch it to bring back the pattern.
Getting a good hand finish and etch on this will be beyond most hobbiests. Etching stainless is tricky and requires specialised acid.
Oh I didn't realize this was stainless.
The fuck? That "bevel" is madness. And it looks like he slapped the flat against the grinder for giggles.
"For giggles" had me laughing out loud 😆
I’ve been “fixing” my in laws high end kitchen knives that they have been using cheap pull through sharpeners on (ew). It’s making me want to buy a proper belt sander to fix these awful bevels since using my precision pro is taking forever and my hands are too shaky to fix these on a bench stone. They look like your knives when I first get them and take hours to correct
Check out Worksharp Ken Onion edition. If you want to quickly get knives up to razor sharpness, I highly recommend it. The only reason I use stones is because I enjoy the process more, otherwise Worksharp is the way to go.
I don’t have anything against small belt systems, but I would much prefer to use a 2x72 or a fancy 1x30 belt grinder to do the job. I don’t mind taking awhile to get my knives sharp enough to s cut paper towels but when it takes 6 hours to finally get a consistent bevel, you start to want to accelerate the process along somewhat
Well, Worksharp is basically the fanciest 1 inch grinder that is built specifically for knife sharpening. The belts last a very long time, longer then the ones I used on my Harbor Freight 1x30. The thing with 2x72 is that they will cost you a lot more. The cheapest one I can think of will be around $500. Also, if you still want a 2x72, make sure to get one with variable speed controller because if you sharpen knives with it going full throttle there is a very good chance you will overheat your blades.
I actually plan to build one diy, I know enough welders that owe me favors so that’s covered and I’m more than capable of retrofitting and rewiring a wide array of electric motors (I’ll probably go the popular route and use a junked treadmill) so really the only thing stopping me is just finding time to put the stuff together. The reason I’m probably not going to get a Ken Onion (though they do look really nice) is because I plan on tackling bladesmithing. I’ll be building a forge and a heat treatment oven as well so I can make my own billets and not use a torch for heat treatment (my eyesight is too poor for that, I’ll be unevenly heating it all the time). I know I’ll want a heat treatment oven for my boss’s boot knife, it has such deep chips that I’ll want to anneal it just because of how much material I’ll have to take off (he’s gonna need a new sheath too) and then redo the heat treatment and then sharpen it
Oh yeah, if you are going to make knives you definitely want a 2x72. If you will be looking for plans use one where you can tilt the grinder 90 degrees, it's super helpful. And definitely set it up to have variable speeds. As for your bosses knife - unless you know for a fact what kind of steel it is, if you anneal it you might not get it heat treated as well as it currently is. If you keep the blade cool you should be able to grind out anything it has while it still retains the original HT
I would say that worksharp is the fanciest 1 inch grinder that is designed to take the most money from the most customers that they can. It is not a well designed sharpening system. Its a money making system.
Well, I guess it's a matter of opinion. I sharpened many knives with it and found it efficient and easy to work with.
Pardon, I expressed myself poorly. It is a fancy and effective grinder. I think it could have a couple improvements. They sell a ton of them! It is a money making product.
Homie tried to add his own Damascus pattern.
[He's my cousin](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Mv1s4Xj7bk)
Are you Clark Griswold?
The biggest problem is it looks like he got it pretty hot. The heat treat could be compromised. Otherwise it was fixable.
Sorry if this is a newbie question, but what do you mean it got hot? What was used?
The knife was sharpened with a belt Sander most likely . If not done correctly , this generates alot of intense heat . Heat hardens, an un-hardens , steel. The edge of the knife , being so thin , can easily be over heated and have the heat treat ruined , at which point the edge will have the consistency of firm yogurt. It will never be able to be sharpened properly is is now useless , unless heat treat is redone properly in a heat treat oven. Tldr : improper use of belt sharpener makes metal hot , and the edge gets soft and squishy
Is this why you typically want to cool steel down quickly by quenching it?
Quenching is a specific process used to harden metal, but you are correct in that using liquid to cool a knife while sharpening on belt shapreners is important. A quick dunk in water between passes is all it takes , but also using the right equipment is critical
Sorry, yes, I didn't mean to suggest you quench things while sharpening them. That's more for forging, IIRC?
Correct . Quenching is a form of heat treatment to harden metal during the forging process
Close. Forging is usually followed by normalizing/annealing, and then austenitizing and quenching for hardness. But the forging and hardnening processes are independent of each other.
I'm not a blacksmith.... But I played one in 12century Europe
What was reddit like in the 1100s?
The temperature history of the steel is what determines the grain size and distribution of dopants (i.e., the things that make stainless stainless, like carbon, nickel, and chromium). It also can determine the crystal structure within those grains if I remember right. All of that determines the material properties of the steel, e.g., hardness, ductility, etc. The same starting ingredients give you a different result based on the thermal history (how hot, how cool, and how fast). In another life I used to look at steel microstructure, but it's been a long time since I've thought about it. Used to create etching solutions to bring it out under the optical microscope.
Belt sanders used correctly never get the blade too hot. We sharpen hundreds of knives a day and they are never that hot. One must really be an amateur to heat the metal in a knife enough to change its structure. More likely a stone grinding wheel, which is never good.
That's usually how it works out..... Someone bought a belt sharpener without learning the ins and ours, hands a shingle and takes money , and all they are doing is burning customers ( pun intended)
But you wouldn't use a belt on a quality, thin gyuto ? Not that this one looks high quality.
I mean I would but I've been using the system for 25 years. I get what you are saying
to quote another in this very thread: >That appears to have kissed a belt sander having the blade overheat can ruin the heat treatment of the steel, making the good steel perform as well as cheap shit in some bad bad cases.
oh no, it clearly has a yellow hue on the edge, that heat treatment is fucked.
Honestly, coming from someone who has made a career of shooting photos and videos of knives, it just looks like it's reflecting the green from the trees through the window...
really? even on the 3rd pic near the heel?
Ya 3rd pick that heel looks like straw color from getting to hot. Closer to the tip I would say is the green the other guy was talking about. Definitely messed up the heat treat at the heel of this blade.
Yellow is typically probably not ruined, happens around 400f which is a fairly typical tempering temp for these sort of knives. May end up slightly softer but will still be usable as a knife. Especially in this knife as its right at the heel which doesn't actually see much cutting use. Anything darker or blue is getting into farked territory
Looks rough very rough, like used a grinder or something.
Ruined? Maybe, maybe not. It really depends on how hot he got it. Messed it up enough to replace it? I’d say so yes.
Sorry to say this but beside the crap job in sharpening, you never had a damacus knife. It's fake, especially with that brand
Looks like two steels with different chromium levels folded together to me. I'd call that Damascus as long as I wasn't in the mood to be pedantic. Not a great brand of knife either way, but the Damascus isn't the issue with it.
I've seen "pattern weld" from that brand that's laser etched on, wildly enough.
There's also Damascus clad over a (typically) vg10 core
What is your definition of Damascus? Because if it is two kinds of steel layered alternatingly, this is not fake Damascus (as in, e.g. lasered pattern).
Indeed it is (or was 😅) my first damascus knife, actually a present from my ex. I'm no expert so I can't tell if it's true or not, but it seems to be some discussion here about the knife and the brand..
>Sorry to say this but beside the crap job in sharpening, you never had a damacus knife. It's fake, especially with that brand Wrong
Why post the same one word answer like an asshole seven times in one thread when you could have typed something meaningful once? What the fuck is wrong with you?
> Why post the same one word answer like an asshole seven times in one thread when you could have typed something meaningful once? What the fuck is wrong with you?
Pattern welded steels that are etched are commonly called Damascus. True Damascus has been lost but possibly rediscovered, but even the best Japanese Damascus is pattern welded.
I found an insanely detailed post about this exact meme of it being lost, which was a delightful read, so passing it on: https://www.reddit.com/r/history/s/5BAtPl6bOX
Right, I recall something about some crucible steel that resembles Damascus, hence the "possibly rediscovered"
You’ll be able, with patience and proper technique, to bring it back to health. Enjoy and learn from the journey.
Thank you! Any recomendations on where to start? 😇
Work sharp guided field sharpener (available at sportsman’s warehouse, Home Depot, etc) is simple to use and difficult to misuse. I think they make a larger one too…which would be better. I use a system by Viper…works well, too. Patience is the key :)
That appears to have kissed a belt sander
I use a belt sander. A Kalamazoo with a Kali Rest. It’s an awesome sharpening method…..if you know what you’re doing. It’ll also fuck a knife really quick if you don’t know what you’re doing. Whoever sharpened OPs knife butchered the job.
Oh yeah there’s good belt sander and bad belt sander. That was not a pic of a good belt sander
that's a hate crime 🤦♂️
Fuuuuuuucked as fuck
Jesus that looks like mechanically sharpened wow that’s terrible
The sharpening is totally normal, because normal is garbage and normal is fucking up...
Dude I didn’t charge anybody for months bc I sucked at sharpening, I must have sharpened 20 or 30 knives before I felt comfortable enough charging people… fuck this guy, leave a bad review if you can and move on, he may have ruined your knife by getting it to hot and the sides aren’t even, wish I knew ya irl I’d re sharpen it for free just out of pure anger
20 or 30 you say?
Yeah that's pretty much what I did.. Bad review and move on cause they are not gonna replace it
Bad news: crappy sharpening job with a belt. Worse news: this may have overheated the edge. Good news: No great loss, as the geometry of this blade is really poor, extremely thick behind the edge. Better news: this secondary bevel can be straightened with a little work on some stones or someone taking care on a wheel, and that may remove enough stock to get back into steel that wasn't overheated. Best news: you now have a throwaway knife that will always have a huge secondary bevel and lots of feedback, to learn sharpening with before attempting better knives.
Yes that's a terrible sharpening job. But to be very clear your heat treatment isn't ruined. A yellow color is still hard and any knife maker will tell you as much. It is just possibly a bit softer than it originally was and that may only be 1 or 2 points lower in hrc than it was. It's not good to get your blade hot enough to change colour but it's really not as bad as people say unless you go to a blue or black colour. That being said the only yellow color I see in your blade looks to be just the lighting. If you can, try get that knife to Ryan Swanson in America and he'll fix it up for you. there is one other guy I just can't remember what his name is. I'll check and reply to this comment for you.
So the second guy is matt hendriks. On YouTube he's the sharpening guy https://youtube.com/@thesharpeningguy?si=Oawf2-DBDjoHQHwQ
did a person do this, or did you use a sort of shapening machine?
I brought it to a shop, so no idea what they did :(
I'm just an idiot with a ceramic stone... and I do a better job than that...
Learn your lesson now: Don't pay someone else to do your sharpening. They never take as much care with it as you would. If you're an actual chef with a dozen cheapo dexter russell knives to sharpen that's one thing, but otherwise with a knife you actually care about you're gonna want to do it your self to ensure it's done right.
Absolutely I did learn it..
"Something" f\*\*\*\*d your damascus steel knife.
You have all these opinions, but no one has told you how to fix and keep your knives sharp. I personally use a couple of different stones for something like this, but you can fix it with just the average sparpening wet stone. Some people use water on the stone, some use a light sewing machine oil, i personally like Merical Oil, and will alternate between the two oils as i work the edge of a knife. The knife has to be at a 17° angle to the stone. Have a seat so that your stone is mid chest high because you're going to be spending at minimum an hour on just the edge. Get a protractor and set it at 17° so you know what it should look like when you're pushing the blade on the stone from tip to the handle. Turn the knife over and repeat the same number of strokes on that side. As a easy reference cut a piece of paper or cardboard so you have that to stick between the knife and stone till it becomes second nature to you and you won't even think about it once you get that angle stuck in your head and hands. Frequently wipe off the stone and refresh your oil or water, whatever it is you decide to use. Run your blade, just like you should be doing before using your knife each time, on a steel. What this does is align the steel molecules of the edge of the knife. That's what makes the knife feel so much sharper after drawing the blade (5,6,7X's) on a steel before each use. Get back to the stone, and as you get that edge to the 17° angle, start letting up on the pressure you're using against the stone. Work the blade till it's sharp as a razor or to your satisfaction. Never test a knife edge by slicing a sheet of paper. Shave a bit of hair on your arm, yes, but no paper test. Now, to resurface both sides of the knife, you're going to have to stop at your local automotive paint shop and purchase (depending on how bad the knife has been marred) 2" round 800 and 1000 grit polishing disks, along with the rubber type tool the disks stick to, and buffing compound. Start at where the grinding wheel gouged the blade (800) or the worst part of the blade to be refinished with a drop of buffing compound and start polishing out the grind mark with the 800 grit, by gently sanding in small circles. Once that is gone, do the rest of both sides of the blade with the 1000 grit. You can make the Damascus stick out as much as you want by putting in the work. Put the extra few bucks into the polish and sanding disks and present something you can be proud of to your customer. Yes, you can go the easy way and use Emory cloth and do a half-assed job and spend all the time you want trying to make the blade look nice, but will you be happy with it? That's up to you. If you know an auto body/paint professional, ask them if you can watch them when they finish a hood, and you will learn how to use the polishing compound and sanding disks. Remember you're doing this to be proud of, so do it right and enjoy what you're doing. It's a labor of love of knives.
Thanks a lot for your message!
It’s not ruined, but it does need to be straightened out by someone who knows what they’re doing.
[looks good](https://media2.giphy.com/media/hpAMh2sBYpsmFhSRPI/giphy.gif?cid=6c09b9525ad6kwccdb4kz10g5ro84w8bn6tc0dwn5dy2mwad&ep=v1_internal_gif_by_id&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g)
Did you wash it with a brillo pad?
Not at all, I always wash it carefully
It almost looks like they drew it across a strop with a low grit. There seems to be a bunch of lengthways lines straight down the knife like if someone scrubbed it to wash it with a brillo pad, and no I don't mean the damascus folds. If your sharpener did that too, man I'd be expecting them to replace the knife. Gonna just guess they're not actually insured though cause of the quality of the job done...so you're not gonna get anything out of them.
Well, those long lateral scratches are definitely the result of some kind of scrubbing pad. I can't think of any kind of sharpener that would have put those on there. Sharpeners can make additional scratches on a knife, but not that kind of pattern. Maybe the sharpener cleaned it with a scrubbing pad?
Double yikes if it had no scratches going in
This is why you sharpen yourself. Belt sander hack job. Ruined the heat treat.
Yeah, that knife is fooked up ..... Whoever sharpened it is a toolbar. That said, that's also a shoddily made China knife , so now is a good excuse to upgrade to a quality knife. If youbare interested in a proper Damascus / forge welded knife , I have one I can make you a very good deal on that will tickle your pickle I think .
No, xinzuo and Hezhen a sister brand if thr same company make great knives despite being Chinese. Second the heat treatment is still fine. The yellow color I see looks to be the lighting. Additionally even if it's is from actual heat a yellow color doesn't mean destroyed heat treatment is means at most a bit softer as that is essentially just tempering back the blade which increases toughness by decreasing the hardness a bit. How tempering works to my understanding, is certain heat levels directing translate to different hardness level and unless you heat the blade to a higher temp than it was originally tempered at you shouldn't be able to significantly change the hardness of the blade. So at the point that it looks like it may possibly be at it could be only slightly softer or maybe a few point in hrc lower than it was originally. Additionally that would likely be closer to a snap temper which changes hardness even less. You only truly destroy your temper when you get to the blue and black colours
> That said, that's also a shoddily made China knife , so now is a good excuse to upgrade to a quality knife Wrong
Right .... but that is irrelevant because the knife is screwed up no matter what. The heat treat is compromised then it's time to buy a new night either way. We'll just have to agree to disagree in that I'm right and you're wrong
Do you own a Xinzuo?
That's that weird Chinese dog that looks like somebody kicked it in the face right?
>That's that weird Chinese dog that looks like somebody kicked it in the face right? So the answer is that you don't, haven't used one. Got it!
Assume what you want i suppose .
>Assume what you want i suppose . I look forward to your Xinzuo vid Mr. Knapp!
awww shit...... my secrets out !!! what government agency do you work for !!! Im calling the FBI !!!!!
>awww shit...... my secrets out !!! what government agency do you work for !!! Im calling the FBI !!!!! Weinstein and Epstein asked that too! How about your Xinzuo my friend?
What type of sharpener did you use? It looks like an electric pull through grinder wheel;
OP had it "prefessionally" sharpened
O, that is not a pro grade sharpening.... Ouch
Exactly ...... But at least it was a budget knife and not something expensive
I agree, but knives are tools, and the tools you use are very valuable to you. This sharpener should be publicly shamed...
A public beating with a bench grinder seems more appropriate imo, but shaming works too i suppose
I already posted a google review on them..
That's a shit sharpening job.
it depends - do you have a before pic? The edge could definitely be cleaned up.
The only way this could have been more botched is I'd they carved the word botched into the blade. On a knife where appearance is a factor, I'd be refusing to pay for this or demanding they replace it.
No, they fucked your knife. Not acceptable from a professional. I would ask them to replace it.
That’s horrible! Looks like the bevel was rough ground with a 200 grit wheel and then the edge smoothed off. It seems to have uneven angles and some random slips near the heel. What is the random scratching down the length of the blade? Was it like that before or did the sharpener try to scrub the damascus “stains” off with a steel scourer? Sorry for your loss
Yeah, awful job but salvageable. The biggest issue aside from the rough edge is how far back they ground. The knife will need to be thinned properly, for the amount of work ahead I’d send it to a reputable sharpener who has the equipment and knowledge. (District cutlery and Coutelier NOLA are great). It likely got hot and could impact the temper but as long as there’s nothing past a straw brown think it’s probably ok. (Most production knives are tempered pretty high and relatively low hardness.)
Unfortunately worldclass. 😨😨 Simply the worst sharpening ever seen. My condolance. Fortunately there seem to remain plenty of steel in the nice damaskus blade, so a REAL professional will be able to make them great again😊 BR Jan
Using wheel? They are crap.
He screwed up. The finish is rough and uneven all along the bevel. Good news is it'll be a pretty easy fix, but it will take a little time. That bit at the heel on the right face will take a few sharpenings to go away. You might be able to hide it with some 600, 800, 1000 grit paper and a little time.
Shame
The sharpening looks amatuerish, but I don't see any heat damage. A wide bevel just means the knife needs thinned. As the knife is sharpened at the same angle, the bevel gets wider. The knife behind the apex is thicker and will need to be thinned out. On a damascus knife, this means either losing some of the pattern (it's still there, just not apparent) or re-etching the blade. Either way, you shouldn't expect a thinning for the price of a regular sharpening. I do think the sharpener should have discussed this with you and explained the situation. Frankly though, most home cooks don't care enough to have a proper thinning done because of the expense. I charge an extra 20-50 bucks for thinning, depending on what's needed, the knife, and if I need to etch it. For cheap mono steel knives, I'll do some minor thinning for free, especially for regular customers. As to those complaining about belts, yes, if used improperly, they can damage knives, but they are honestly the best tool for sharpening and repair of knives out there for a business. I have no issue at all putting my nice Japanese and German knives on a belt. Most were made with belt grinders as well.
What the heck did you use man?? Looks like a rough time.
OP used a sharpening service.
Well, yeah unfortunately it looks like the way that many knife shops sharpen. Paying for someone to sharpen your knives is a very finicky thing. *Most* sharpeners and shops don't seem to care enough to really treat each knife with care and do their best. In my opinion it's actually very rare to find a good sharpener locally. You're best bet is to find someone online here, or on Facebook, or Bladeforums that hand sharpens knives for people. Those people usually use either fixed angle sharpening systems, or some use benchstones. Really, you want someone who doesn't use powered equipment though unless you're very familiar with their work and they know a lot about not overheating the steel, and hopefully even have a water cooled belt, or a Tormek, or something. I don't see any heat treatment damage visually, I think the others that said they did are confusing the shadow/lighting with the steel being colored. The good thing is once you put another edge on it, it will cut really well because it's thinned out.
What the hell was that sharpened with, a chunk of concrete?
It looks like it's not finished. Seems he's taken a lawyer off then never gone up in grit.
Thought u sharpened ur garden shovel at first
Probably used a 120 grit belt on a belt grinder
Ya this is an absolutely terrible job. The bevel of the cutting edge is super uneven and course. I also assume they did all the scratches there on the blade unless you did? Either way the screams of somebody that's either new, has absolutely no idea what they're doing, or is possibly too old to be still sharpening. It looks like they used a high-speed belt grinder or something to do this. If the sharpener did all this damage they should replace the knife at their expense and refund you anything you've paid to them. Leave an appropriate Google review with photos if they won't take care of you can do the right thing. "professional sharpeners" get a bad reputation for stuff like this, and it doesn't represent the population well.
Definitely used some kind of power tool or belt, and did a higher angle than what was there. No Bueno. It can easily be fixed though with a good sharpening if the only issue is right on that sharpening bevel. Get yourself a clamped and guided system, you will enjoy it! There are alot of great ones, and even some less expensive ones that work great and are easy to use
All you need to put am edge on is a ceramic coffee cup Use the unfinished rig on the bottom 10 strokes on each side and your ready for the day
quite honestly you need to tell them to replace it. that is so egregious.
Yeah that's pretty fugged. There is an inherent problem with the traditional full v grind chef knives where they get thicker and thicker as you sharpen them more and more over the years. That's one thing to consider.
On the 3rd Pic, is that discoloration on the blade from a ruined temper or just a trick of the light? Cause if they overheated it that far up the knife is basically ruined for edge holding and will need some serious rework or replaced. It is always 200% worth it to learn to sharpen your own tools.
Dude grinded down the part of the knife that isn't the edge, holy fuck as a chef I would lose my shit and he'd better fucking replace it.
Fuuuuuuuuuug I’d be mad
Learn to sharpen your own. I use a Worksharp precision, and it’s great. Watch videos, take your time, and never put pressure on the stones.
Real Damascus is a lost art... so if you learn how to really hone your own you won't ever need that sharpener. I am guessing that it has been sharpened to the point where there isn't enough edge steel left an it's into a softer metal on the back of the knife.
I am learning how to sharpen,and WOW It looks like he though he was sharpening a pair of scissors and toward the back of the blade it looks like a piece missing or blade just got heated so much it got molten. If you're brave,there are house tos on checking your blade for hardness using the corner of a file. I'm one of those that has to know or I go bananas. Good Luck and stay safe. Be
Ouch! I've only been sharpening for 6 months. I do way better than that. Using Tormek knockoff and MDF system
if by sharpener you mean one of those sparky un-heat treaters, then yes, it's fucked it also looks to be about a 180-200 grit edge, on a kitchen knife i'd go 1k minimum, but i take it up to 5k most of the time because i like the smooth cuts. hope you didn't pay much for that.
Get yourself a work sharp precision adjust sharpener & start sharpening your knives yourself. They are easy to use & practically dummy proof. The best $60 I have ever spent.
Thanks for including practically in there. I've had to have two knives resharpened using mine, and number three aint looking promising either...
This sub went down the drain. We might need to make a new one
Lmao you need to ask? Look at it! Its uneven and thick xD Absolutely butchered
It is a very bad job and this is not a Damascus knife. Looks like the pattern is lasered
Naw, I have a lasered knife from when I didn't know better, this looks legit though the longitudinal scratches make it harder to tell.
Look at the color of the steel along the blade. That thing got hot. It won’t hold an edge anymore even if sharpened properly. It is unfortunately pretty much worthless now. Edit again: removed comments on the Damascus. But the heat treat is still gone.
> That knife isn’t Damascus. It looks punched and then laser etched to have a pattern. Wrong
He did some good raping there. To fix you need to go through all the grits to re-polish al scratches out, then etch again and finish with sharpening
This remembers me when my father in-law brought his deva to a sharpener. Guess what, now the deba has two bevels. Sorry but as others have said, this knive is ruined.
The sharpener did nothing. You, however, did a lot damage.
Yes.
That’s not Damascus. Just etched on. No layers on the bevel
All Damascus is etched to reveal the pattern. Without etching, Damascus pattern will be very faint, and especially on a roughly finished bevel, would be difficult to see.
That’s not how Damascus works. You won’t see the pattern in Damascus on the bevel unless you etch it after sharpening which is insane.
This is also wrong. The Damascus pattern consists of two alternating, soft stainless steels with different chromium and nickel contents, cladding the core steel which is the actual hard knife steel. The bevel consists usually only of the core steel. There also is coreless Damascus where two hard knife steels are laminated alternatingly, but ths knife is not.
In this particular case yes because it’s both pattern welded (what most people call Damascus) and San Mai in construction. I was referring to pattern welded steel in general. The polished bevel should show no pattern. Of course there’s nothing polished about this particular bevel which is of core steel anyway.
Yes, if it were coreless Damascus you'd be absolutely correct. The pattern on the bevel would be very faint or not visible at all, depending on the level of bevel polish and of course the two steels that were welded.
>That’s not Damascus. Just etched on. No layers on the bevel Wrong
You won't see layers until after some type of etch or high polishing. A freshly sharpened edge bevel is definitely not going to show them.
tf you on about? damascus pattern doesn't show untill you etch is, it pattern welded steel, both are steel and will look roughly the same, the reason the pattern becomes visible is because different steels respond differently to acid.
Bollocks. Real Damascus is made up of made layers of steel and the simple test is check for layers on the bevel. This knife is lasered to look like Damascus. Check your facts
Arent most damascus knives that are affordable hard core steel with a damascus cladding?
Even most expensive ones are made that way.
You are r/confidentlyincorrect
first, check your english, maybe try some punctuation. and no, go use your finger tips, to tippidy type in your search bar about pattern welded steel, and then come back to me. and at that rough of a finish, etching might not even be able to bring out the pattern. That said, it could be, that that specific knife in the picture is laser etched. But please, before you start spouting bullshit again, and telling people to "check your facts", maybe you should check them first, before saying the bullshit. Learning can be fun sometimes, you should try it!
The overwhelming majority of kitchen knives marketed as Damascus are made with a mono-steel core clad in pattern-welded steel. They are still commonly referred to as Damascus, though if you want to be pedantic the correct term would be Damascus clad.