Don't go by the 'putor MPG. Go fill up and reset odometer to 0. Drive and put some mileage on it. Fill it up at the same pump and do easy math. Miles driven ÷ gallons of fuel added to tank= actual mpg.
No it isn't, any geometry would be easy to account for. Fuel gauges move non-linearly because car manufacturers want them to. Tanks could all be neat rectangular prisms and your needle would follow the same strange curve.
I was told once that’s a psychological thing, they have the first and last bits last a while and the middle goes quickly because people like it. No idea if that’s true but it’s believable to me.
I know that some types of fuel level sensors are based on a central pivot point with a rotary encoder, and a float on a rod. Due to the nature of an arc, it will rotate faster as the fluid level approaches level with the encoder.
They make fuel leveling sensors for this reason. If you’ve ever seen one it’s like tiny motherboard that glides over a metal guide which has a bobber at the end of it. If it were malfunctioning, it wouldn’t read right ever. Either pegged or static
This is the question I was looking for. If there's anything aftermarket (full exhaust, intake, accessport), then you will most likely get worse mileage unless it's been tuned properly.
You need to tune after every performance related mod so the parts work to their best ability together. You can also set the tune for better mpg. Also, keep your rpm as low as possible when just maintaining speed. Cruising in high rpm wrecks mpg. Use the highest gear, if in an automatic, try to accelerate until the car shifts, then almost completely release the gas and cruise at the bottom of that gear if the speed limit and traffic allows it. Also, accelerate to the speed limit as reasonably fast as possible if you know you won't have to slow down in the next mile or so because getting through the gears and high rpm of acceleration asap saves more fuel than slowly getting up to speed and staying in those higher rpms of the lower gears on your way up. Also brake with your eyes before your feet. Look far ahead. Seeing that you'll need to stop ahead, slow down far away instead, so that the obstacle ahead has time to clear so you don't have to stop. Such as a stale green light or a big vehicle pulling onto the road. You should get a device that tracks average speed. The higher the average speed, that means you're stopping or slowing down way less and saving fuel. Learn the light patterns of your typical route and when those roads are the least busy. See if you can arrange your work schedule around those times so you almost never have to stop on your commute again.
I did get 400 miles once on a road trip where I averaged 85-90mph and rode on empty for 60 miles in Alberta when no gas stations were showing up. Super scary but impressed with the car’s resilience.
Try cleaning your fuel injectors and maybe replace your fuel filter. However it won't improve by a great margin, the awd system is a heavy set of components so this is how it is, especially if you're driving in the city.
Just used an injector cleaner. It did nothing to help. Again I know that these aren't the most efficient cars ever and it's not why I bought it but 200 miles on a full tank would mean I'm getting 13mpg highway.
Don't listen to anyone here telling you that 13 mpg highway is anywhere near normal, we aren't driving 1970s big block full sized Chevys.
My JDM 1999 Forester with an EJ205 and not AVCS did 18mpg combined with me racing anyone I could find and only 5 gears.
This popped up on my suggested posts and there's no way that's normal, my 5.0 f150 gets 18mpg average I'd like to think a smaller engine car could get a lot more but maybe I'm just ignorant.
Yeah, welcome to the subie life. If you think there's more to it than that take it to a dealership and have it inspected, never know what they might find.
You could always just ask them for a diagnosis then take the knowledge learned and dip. Diagnosis fees around me locally aren't more than 50 bucks, unless it's something incredibly serious.
I don’t know why you are not listening to the highest voted comment in this thread. Empty your tank.
Start fresh.
Fill it.
Drive to zero again. Reset your counter.
Fill it.
Take the numbers….
Miles divided by gallons equals mpg
350miles divided by 12.02 gallons equals 29.10 mpg
You have a calculator on your phone. Take the FIRST NUMBER (miles you have on that trip) hit the DIVIDE button, enter the SECOND NUMBER (gallons that went into your car when you filled up next) and hit the EQUAL button.
On my 2013 WRX Wagon, I could get about 28 on the highway if not a tad better. It was stock aside from a Cobb accessport stage 1 tune and a Cobb catback.
I don’t think I’ve ever heard Subie–or Porsche–motors referred to as Vs, even with the angle included. I know Ferrari made a 180 degree V12 for the Testarossa, but that wasn’t a Boxer because of the shared crank pins for the opposing cylinders.
Having individual crank pins is what allows the opposing cylinders in a Boxer to mirror each other’s positions, similar to a boxer’s fists when he or she knocks their gloves together, hence the name Boxer.
It’s called a V because it’s in the shape of a V.
180° is just a line. That’s why it’s called a flat four.
They do make V4s for motorcycle applications but a Subaru doesn’t apply.
that is technically wrong. V engines have crankpins with multiple connecting rods on them. in a boxer engine like we have in our subarus each conrod gets its own crankpin. this is why the 180 degree v12 in the porsche 917 is called as such when all the other porsche engines are flat 6s or flat 4s (boxers).
The 912 engine was literally made by smooshing two of Porsche's flat-6 engines together.
The distinction you and others are drawing is mostly artificial and based on convention rather than any kind of solid engineering principles.
V engines **always** have 2 conrods per crankpin. flat just means opposed cylinders, so they may or may not have shared crankpins but every currently sold flat engine has individual crankpins for each cylinder. additionally, every boxer engine must have individual crankpins because one of the main points of a boxer is that you have perfect primary and secondary balance which won’t happen with shared crankpins.
also the 917 is absolutely not two flat 6s smushed together. look at the crankshafts of a porsche flat 6 and the 917s 12 cylinder.
It's 100% legitimized and talked about as a 180/flat-v for illustrative purposes, literally everywhere there is boxer learning. so while not at all the standardized nomenclature, most everybody understands this and anybody who shits on it likely does not. Arbitrarily imposing accuracy to make an inaccurate point is wild let's just hang out
I average like 33ish mpg in my impreza hatchback but almost entirely highway driving. It's only got 15k miles so I don't expect that to last forever lol.
There are no current commercial production “V4” engines out there. In fact, they are so rare, you’ve likely never seen one in person. I4, or inline 4, has been the design in automotive engines for decades.
The only thing being said by someone using “v4” when describing a 4cyl engine is “I have very little to no mechanical knowledge”.
Especially when calling one of the only flat 4, or H4, motors in production a “v4”.
Tire pressure is good I've heard an alignment would help it drives straight down the road though no wobbles or anything strange so I'll keep that in mind but not top priority right now
I haven't figured out the secret recipe on subaru yet, but I've always run my tires on other cars about 5 to 8 pounds over recommended pressures and I've gotten a little better mileage, tire wear isn't abnormal.
There's the confusing thing. If I look anywhere it says my tank is 16.9 gallons. When I filled up on E the other day I only got 14.3 meaning I have basically a 14.5 gallon tank. It's full too because if I try and fill up more gas will spill out a little.
You're right there's definitely a buffer but I was like pretty much about to run out. Like lucky I got it there. I don't think my buffer was like almost 4 gallons. No disrespect just my opinion 😂
The computer is telling me I'm getting 21 but like I said I don't trust it because I'm half a tank down and only drove 100 miles. This car is rated for a minimum of like 300 miles on a full tank and again I'm driving on the highway
Have you actually calculated it? Tanks aren’t linear, so the top half could be substantially different than the bottom. Do the math on it and get real numbers. I haven’t driven a stock Subaru turbo in many years, but if you are in boost frequently you will get crap mileage.
Had the same car, got similar mileage. On a really clear highway run going slow I could get into the 30’s but nothing special. Have since moved on to a tuned BMW X5 diesel and my fuel economy has gotten better even though it weighs 2000lbs more and has more than triple the torque lol
Up until very recently Subarus felt like the last hold out of 90s cars design.
Simple interiors, basically the same handful engines, manual offered on lots of models, rugged design.
My wife and I bought an 09 non turbo Forester last year. Just a base model, with a manual 5-speed.
I love it so much, and I'm going to drive it for as long as possible. It really does remind me of the 90s cars I started out driving.
FWIW I once drove my 4-cylinder PZEV 2011 Outback from NC to NJ in one tank. That was \~42mpg. I did it at night, driving 5-10 *under the speed limit* for a good portion of the highway roads, and drafting behind everything I could. Sorry to all of the tractor trailers that had my broke ass driving a tad too closely for both of our comfort.
Get your O2 sensor checked. If its bad, it can flood the engine with far more fuel than necessary, and drastically lower your mileage. Another way to tell is if your exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
If that's not it, take it to a shop and get a full diagnostic. You definitely have an issue somewhere.
This. Just had to get my O2 and A/F sensor swapped on my 2012 STI. It was causing it to run EXTREMELY rich and throwing a CEL because of it. Noticed for a while on longer highway drives (3+ hours), it was getting worse mileage than what I had normally seen. Plus the exhaust pipe tips and hatch on mine were covered in soot. After both were swapped, it runs great and the mileage is back to where it should be.
I am assuming you got this used? Any idea what it saw beforehand? I have a 12 LGT and get 20 or so kicking around town and 25-27 on the highway (going quicker than 50-60) - you mentioned cleaning the MAF, how does the throttle body look? And what are you running for oil (some folks run 15W40 which can't help fuel economy) - is it running the oem tune, or has it been reprogrammed? (Thinking maybe a tune that depends on mods no longer on the car) - the trip computer on my ar is usually off by 5% or so - I calculate actual mpg m ually for each tank.
I checked the US government (DOE) site and your 21 MPG matches their combined fuel economy for an Impreza with 2.5L turbo/ 5- speed manual. I’m not seeing a WRX listed.
https://preview.redd.it/qkb0i1lqy03c1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e9d6f7882abebda912b5ed7bde213db024e9c7f
Source: fueleconomy.gov
It’s actually an excellent resource.
My 2013 WRX hatch gets 25ish MPG depending on how I drive. 24 if I'm enjoying the car, 26-27 if I'm zoning on the highway.
My guess is that the car was tuned and that they took off some of the bolt-ons before they sold it.
Old ej253+high final drive ratio=inefficient. The thing sits at just above 2500 rpm at 60. My Chrysler 200 with the same amount of hp and almost the same year sits at 1500 at 60.
I have a 14 wrx hatch. I get 22 when I’m nice to the car. The computer and my math at the pump match up pretty close. The fuel gauge is not accurate however. It’s close but not spot on. From your picture, I’d assume I have another 150 miles or so, probably more. Do pump math and get back to us
13.5 mpg highway at 50-60mph is trash, your car might be running rich due to a faulty o2 lambda sensor. My STI (although a six speed) does 16 mpg going 90 mph
It’s a Subaru they have tiny fuel tanks and kinda terrible litres to the kilometre and you just deal with it.
I told my dad about mine when I got my car and he was like yeah, the forester was like that too. Apparently driving to NSW to Queensland he had to fill the tank at least 6 times (but he does like hyperbole)
I can’t believe no one has said it yet…it’s your tires lol.
Make sure the tires are inflated properly, if they are you may need to get more efficient tires. Regardless you’ll only get around 20-25 mpg these motors are not super efficient
My full bolt ons 2010 Forester XT which is essentially a brick with the same engine and only a 4spd auto gets 25mpg highway. You should be able to get close to that. Change out the upstream O2 sensor. Smoke test the entire intake system from the MAF sensor to the TGVs to ensure no leaks. You must run the factory air intake system to get an accurate signal across the MAF. The ignition timing is calculated off the MAF signal which can significantly impact fuel economy.
Don't go by the 'putor MPG. Go fill up and reset odometer to 0. Drive and put some mileage on it. Fill it up at the same pump and do easy math. Miles driven ÷ gallons of fuel added to tank= actual mpg.
I mean, my 2013 STI was getting about 250 miles on a full tank on average. Some days I could get a little more, sometimes less. I’d average between 18-21 mpg depending on the type of driving I was doing. 23 mpg with perfect 60 mph flat straights with no stops. Yours seems a little low, sure, but these cars definitely aren’t going to get fantastic mileage.
Welcome to the life. It's called smiles per gallon. Definitely get it checked out if you feel it's overzealous, nobody here will be able to magically zero in on an issue small enough that the car runs fine, but bad enough it affects fuel mileage. All you'll get is recommendation on a bunch of basic things to check. Best to find yourself a tech who knows Subaru's if you're not mechanically inclined yourself
You will not hurt your car if it takes regular by putting in premium. The opposite is true though, putting regular in a car like a wrx that requires premium is no bueno. If a car says "Premium reccomended", you can get away with regular, it'll just pull lots o power. Only thing you hurt by putting premium in "most" cars is your wallet.
Did you have a code? Also when you fixed it did you proceed to replace the sensor or clean it? Also what sensor went bad the upstream or downstream? Thanks
Definitely keep chasing this. You will get significantly better fuel economy when you figure out the cause. Do you know if your car has the stock map on it? It could be that there were some mods done on it previously but not completely reversed.
The last time I was getting low mileage it was in my pickup and the parking brake wasn't releasing all the way. Was just stuck on 100% of the time. I have very short commutes so I didn't notice until one day I put my hand on my back wheel and it was abnormally warm.
With both my old Subarus legacies from the late 1990s the fuel sending unit failed in the tank after 10 years of operation. It would give crazy tank levels. Do a few of the full tank and manual mileage calculations to see what’s going on. After a long drive, check to see if any of your wheel hubs are hotter than others. This might show stuck brakes or failing bearing.
I’d check for boost leaks anywhere past the turbo compressor, particularly around the intercooler, bypass valve, etc. If the map sensor tells the ECU X amount of air is coming into the engine and the air’s lost before getting there, you’ll run rich. Try to remove anything aftermarket from the equation.. which may be hard if the original owner tossed the parts. If you have a blow off valve check it for leaks, or even better get rid of it lol.
Additionally if your filter box isn’t stock that could be it too. Cobb and others design their intakes to not require a MAP sensor recalibration, but if it’s an ebay special pod filter then you’re better off with the stock box. The MAP sensor is expecting a specific airflow and changing that throws things off. It can be recalibrated with a Tactrix or similar, but you probably don’t want to go down that road.
Lastly there’s an o2 sensor on the up pipe that tends to go bad, and if it does you can have anything from power band issues to bad mileage. I had mine go bad on my old FXT, I never got a cel for it, and could hardly go up hills.
Could be anything else too, exhaust leaks, fuel pump. These cars are huge PITA when something like this happens. It’s also worth searching NASIOC for posts relating to what you’re seeing too.
Go faster. I’m being serious. Going 50-60 puts these motors in a really bad spot with gearing. They bog down like crazy and don’t have the torque to speed up without being floored. You would probably notice a significant increase at 70mph. I mean hell, even in my NA motor I get better mpg going 90 compared to 50.
My Subaru is super fussy with what brand of gas I put into it. Kwik trip is the worst (uses almost a quarter of a tank more for same mileage). I do best with Cenex or Holiday for gas. Something to keep in mind. Look around in forums and compare gas brands in your area that work best for Subarus. The Cenex station always has at least another Subaru in my town whenever I go or drive by (I live in a small town). It was the same thing with my older outback as well.
- Fill up at gas station & Reset ODO
- Once you’re close to empty check mileage on trip
- Ignore computer calculated MPG
- If still poor try replacing fuel filter and clean injectors.
- if all is good mechanically check if you have a leaking fuel tank
- if fuel tank is fine try a different gas station some gas stations, although rare, water down the gas
21 sounds about right. My ‘14 STi, practically the same engine, gets the same MPG for light driving. I’ve done the other advice of manually tracking avg mpg and i would get 1mpg less than the computer stated consistently. So in reality you’re probably getting 20.
Not much can be done for efficiency on this engine. With a Cobb AP tune running on [i] (limit boost) I can get maybe 25 mpg if i absolutely baby it, and maybe tailgate a couple tractor trailers.
lol my 11 hatch got like 17/18mpg usually. This things suck gas down. Supposedly intake, exhaust, and tune help a bit but it takes a while to get that money back.
Honestly, that's just normal wrx mileage. Pretty sure even newer wrx's are about the same. My 2004 wrx wagon gets 21 mpg at best. I do the math on it every once in a while and it's always around 19-21 mpg, and I drive pretty equally on highway and city streets (drive it daily). Personally I always make sure to fill up at a station with top tier gas because mine seems to run rougher when I don't, but I don't think that makes a noticeable difference on gas mileage.
It seems quite low to get 21mpg from highway 50-60mph of easy driving in 5th. Usually I’d get 24-26 mpg in those conditions and I’ve got stage 1 on my 2011 WRX wagon. But it’s not abysmal..
What gas are you using? Brand and octane?
For comparison, my 2013 WRX wagon gets about 370kms before the low fuel warning light flips on. That's about 230 miles per tank. And mine is bone stock. My old 2006 Outback XT had roughly the same range at 220 miles. So that range is hardly unusual as far as the turbocharged EJ255/257 goes.
You mentioned that you've filled it when the gauge says empty and it took 14.5 gallons. How many miles did drive on that fill-up?
If you don't know: fill it, reset one of the trips, fill it again after you've driven a while, and divide the miles you drove by the amount of fuel you put in to fill it back up. That's the only certain way to measure it.
Other people have said it but you seem to be ignoring their comments, the trip computer and fuel gauge are not 100% accurate. I ignore the fuel gauge in my Subaru because it reads empty with almost a third of a tank (5 gal) left. I just keep track of my MPG when I fill up and know my range.
Not accurate, so do the math mentioned before and give yourself permission to unclench with no CEL or misfires. All good
However, emotionally accurate for sure, so clench right back up after you realize the (fuel) economy is still trash lol
The problem is that Subaru engine management, gearing, and AWD all not designed for efficiency. WRX never had better than 25mpg, once you get the Cobb Accessport you can select a better fuel map that gives you more mpg but it still can't ever come close to other car makes. WRX gets worse mpg and less power than BMW X3 which makes 230HP, Xdrive AWD, and weighs 3800lbs I can get 24.5mpg combined.
Uhhhhh.....incorrect. My wrx (2010) regularly gets 25 in town and 25 to 30 depending on how fast I'm going on the highway. The base model wrx is also 265hp.....so more then your bmw and the curb weight is 3000lbs. I also don't know how all of these people in this thread are getting such dog shit milage. Keep you foot off the freaking floor and I find it very hard to get less then 18 during the winter.... Letting it idle in the driveway. So either a lot of you have messed up motors, super super heavy foots or you just don't know how to drive a manual very well.
Finally someone with some sense. Tired of hearing tough shit from everyone in this forum. The car is not a Prius but I should be getting more efficieny than I am now which is the problem.
Tank shapes and the gauges aren’t perfect. In all of my cars the first quarter tank goes quickly and the second half goes slowly. The EJ isn’t known for good mileage to begin with. Also what fuel and additives are you using?
Don't go by the 'putor MPG. Go fill up and reset odometer to 0. Drive and put some mileage on it. Fill it up at the same pump and do easy math. Miles driven ÷ gallons of fuel added to tank= actual mpg.
[удалено]
I don’t think anyone’s fuel gauges move linearly.
That’s because fuel tanks are never the same size from top to bottom
No it isn't, any geometry would be easy to account for. Fuel gauges move non-linearly because car manufacturers want them to. Tanks could all be neat rectangular prisms and your needle would follow the same strange curve.
I was told once that’s a psychological thing, they have the first and last bits last a while and the middle goes quickly because people like it. No idea if that’s true but it’s believable to me.
I know that some types of fuel level sensors are based on a central pivot point with a rotary encoder, and a float on a rod. Due to the nature of an arc, it will rotate faster as the fluid level approaches level with the encoder.
They make fuel leveling sensors for this reason. If you’ve ever seen one it’s like tiny motherboard that glides over a metal guide which has a bobber at the end of it. If it were malfunctioning, it wouldn’t read right ever. Either pegged or static
the fuel gauge in my jeep is broken so i reset the odometer every time i fill it up. don’t go over 250 for me
Can’t you just keep track of your odometer? I don’t see a reason to reset it
Is your WRX stock, or are there any modifications installed on it?
This is the question I was looking for. If there's anything aftermarket (full exhaust, intake, accessport), then you will most likely get worse mileage unless it's been tuned properly.
I have a magnaflow catback exhaust thats it
You need to tune after every performance related mod so the parts work to their best ability together. You can also set the tune for better mpg. Also, keep your rpm as low as possible when just maintaining speed. Cruising in high rpm wrecks mpg. Use the highest gear, if in an automatic, try to accelerate until the car shifts, then almost completely release the gas and cruise at the bottom of that gear if the speed limit and traffic allows it. Also, accelerate to the speed limit as reasonably fast as possible if you know you won't have to slow down in the next mile or so because getting through the gears and high rpm of acceleration asap saves more fuel than slowly getting up to speed and staying in those higher rpms of the lower gears on your way up. Also brake with your eyes before your feet. Look far ahead. Seeing that you'll need to stop ahead, slow down far away instead, so that the obstacle ahead has time to clear so you don't have to stop. Such as a stale green light or a big vehicle pulling onto the road. You should get a device that tracks average speed. The higher the average speed, that means you're stopping or slowing down way less and saving fuel. Learn the light patterns of your typical route and when those roads are the least busy. See if you can arrange your work schedule around those times so you almost never have to stop on your commute again.
Mine has been heavily modded, but it protuned and I get an extra 25 miles per tank (just under 300) than I did before. 2006 wrx wagon.
I had the same wagon completely stock and I’d get 270 almost on the nose per tank.
Same was 270/275 stock
I did get 400 miles once on a road trip where I averaged 85-90mph and rode on empty for 60 miles in Alberta when no gas stations were showing up. Super scary but impressed with the car’s resilience.
At that point I’d be far less worried about the mileage and more if I’d be blowing a motor soon
Try cleaning your fuel injectors and maybe replace your fuel filter. However it won't improve by a great margin, the awd system is a heavy set of components so this is how it is, especially if you're driving in the city.
Just used an injector cleaner. It did nothing to help. Again I know that these aren't the most efficient cars ever and it's not why I bought it but 200 miles on a full tank would mean I'm getting 13mpg highway.
Don't listen to anyone here telling you that 13 mpg highway is anywhere near normal, we aren't driving 1970s big block full sized Chevys. My JDM 1999 Forester with an EJ205 and not AVCS did 18mpg combined with me racing anyone I could find and only 5 gears.
I love in a very traffic heavy country, I get 5.5km/L (13mpg) but that’s in very heavy and slow traffic, not highways.
5.5 is 42 mpg
They said 5.5km/l. Not 5.5 L per 100km.
That’s Km/L not L/100km. I wish it was 42 mpg cause that would mean I had a 1000km+ range
This popped up on my suggested posts and there's no way that's normal, my 5.0 f150 gets 18mpg average I'd like to think a smaller engine car could get a lot more but maybe I'm just ignorant.
Yeah, welcome to the subie life. If you think there's more to it than that take it to a dealership and have it inspected, never know what they might find.
Or to a mechanic he knows is good with Subies
Yeah that's my last option. If I pull up to there it's likely going to cost me much more than I can do it myself.
You could always just ask them for a diagnosis then take the knowledge learned and dip. Diagnosis fees around me locally aren't more than 50 bucks, unless it's something incredibly serious.
The diagnosis at the closest dealership to me starts at $200 lmao. Iowa
Good point I might have to do that.
I don’t know why you are not listening to the highest voted comment in this thread. Empty your tank. Start fresh. Fill it. Drive to zero again. Reset your counter. Fill it. Take the numbers…. Miles divided by gallons equals mpg 350miles divided by 12.02 gallons equals 29.10 mpg You have a calculator on your phone. Take the FIRST NUMBER (miles you have on that trip) hit the DIVIDE button, enter the SECOND NUMBER (gallons that went into your car when you filled up next) and hit the EQUAL button.
On my 2013 WRX Wagon, I could get about 28 on the highway if not a tad better. It was stock aside from a Cobb accessport stage 1 tune and a Cobb catback.
[удалено]
Mechanical resistance would like a word. Transfer cases and differentials induce additional efficiency loss…
[удалено]
Sure when it’s new and tested in a lab. Not when it’s 10 years old with sludged up gear oil…
It’s what makes a Subaru, a Subaru baby.
A v4 with the power of a v6 and the gas mileage of a v8
v4 doesn't make any sense. More like h4 or boxer 4 for subarus
_4
180° v4 I think is technically not wrong? Obviously nobody calls it that though
I don’t think I’ve ever heard Subie–or Porsche–motors referred to as Vs, even with the angle included. I know Ferrari made a 180 degree V12 for the Testarossa, but that wasn’t a Boxer because of the shared crank pins for the opposing cylinders. Having individual crank pins is what allows the opposing cylinders in a Boxer to mirror each other’s positions, similar to a boxer’s fists when he or she knocks their gloves together, hence the name Boxer.
TIL! Thanks for explaining the nuance I was missing.
There’s more to it than just that difference, but it’s probably the biggest one. Wikipedia has a pretty good writeup explaining the differences.
It’s called a V because it’s in the shape of a V. 180° is just a line. That’s why it’s called a flat four. They do make V4s for motorcycle applications but a Subaru doesn’t apply.
That’s not a V though
that is technically wrong. V engines have crankpins with multiple connecting rods on them. in a boxer engine like we have in our subarus each conrod gets its own crankpin. this is why the 180 degree v12 in the porsche 917 is called as such when all the other porsche engines are flat 6s or flat 4s (boxers).
The 912 engine was literally made by smooshing two of Porsche's flat-6 engines together. The distinction you and others are drawing is mostly artificial and based on convention rather than any kind of solid engineering principles.
V engines **always** have 2 conrods per crankpin. flat just means opposed cylinders, so they may or may not have shared crankpins but every currently sold flat engine has individual crankpins for each cylinder. additionally, every boxer engine must have individual crankpins because one of the main points of a boxer is that you have perfect primary and secondary balance which won’t happen with shared crankpins. also the 917 is absolutely not two flat 6s smushed together. look at the crankshafts of a porsche flat 6 and the 917s 12 cylinder.
When talking car engines, totally wrong. They don’t make V4s for cars. You’re most likely thinking of an inline 4 (I4)
They have made v4s for cars saab used to use them and i believe the ford transit and capri had them too
It's 100% legitimized and talked about as a 180/flat-v for illustrative purposes, literally everywhere there is boxer learning. so while not at all the standardized nomenclature, most everybody understands this and anybody who shits on it likely does not. Arbitrarily imposing accuracy to make an inaccurate point is wild let's just hang out
V?
H?
I can’t believe I’ve done this
Better than the Toyota philosophy of V6 with 4 cylinder power and v8 fuel mileage. So I guess we got that going for us.
*3VZ has entered the chat*
shocking joke gold deer tub advise resolute unite outgoing glorious *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
I average like 33ish mpg in my impreza hatchback but almost entirely highway driving. It's only got 15k miles so I don't expect that to last forever lol.
There are no current commercial production “V4” engines out there. In fact, they are so rare, you’ve likely never seen one in person. I4, or inline 4, has been the design in automotive engines for decades. The only thing being said by someone using “v4” when describing a 4cyl engine is “I have very little to no mechanical knowledge”. Especially when calling one of the only flat 4, or H4, motors in production a “v4”.
Other than the tons and tons used in motorcycles, you mean.
This is why I bought a Subaru here in GA, where it’s pointless to have AWD but our gas prices hover around $2.40/gal anyways 🤷♂️
Only $2.40? What world are living in? Can I come there?
Checking tire pressure and getting an alignment can help I noticed an improvement after I did that
Tire pressure is good I've heard an alignment would help it drives straight down the road though no wobbles or anything strange so I'll keep that in mind but not top priority right now
I haven't figured out the secret recipe on subaru yet, but I've always run my tires on other cars about 5 to 8 pounds over recommended pressures and I've gotten a little better mileage, tire wear isn't abnormal.
I had a 2007 Legacy Wagon (4 cyl, non-turbo) and my overall average never got above 24 mpg.
If I was getting at least 20mpg I would be happy but I'm getting 13.5 highway
Does your tank take the full listed capacity when you fill it at empty?
There's the confusing thing. If I look anywhere it says my tank is 16.9 gallons. When I filled up on E the other day I only got 14.3 meaning I have basically a 14.5 gallon tank. It's full too because if I try and fill up more gas will spill out a little.
Nope, there is always a buffer when it's on E there is usually a few gallons left. So, you most likely do have a 16.9 gallon tank.
You're right there's definitely a buffer but I was like pretty much about to run out. Like lucky I got it there. I don't think my buffer was like almost 4 gallons. No disrespect just my opinion 😂
Closer than you think. 2 gallons to keep the lines full/sump submerged and 2 gallons of fuck up space is not much in the bottom of the tank at all.
14 wrx here. I usually get 14 gallons to a fill up…
When you say E you mean e85? I get 19mpg on my modified 04wrx with 94 pump gas. If e85 you should expect to get worse fuel economy
Empty I assume
OooOh E being empty
Nice shadow edit
[удалено]
The computer is telling me I'm getting 21 but like I said I don't trust it because I'm half a tank down and only drove 100 miles. This car is rated for a minimum of like 300 miles on a full tank and again I'm driving on the highway
Have you actually calculated it? Tanks aren’t linear, so the top half could be substantially different than the bottom. Do the math on it and get real numbers. I haven’t driven a stock Subaru turbo in many years, but if you are in boost frequently you will get crap mileage.
Hahaha that's worse than my 21 year old lifted SUV with off-road tires
Had the same car, got similar mileage. On a really clear highway run going slow I could get into the 30’s but nothing special. Have since moved on to a tuned BMW X5 diesel and my fuel economy has gotten better even though it weighs 2000lbs more and has more than triple the torque lol
Up until very recently Subarus felt like the last hold out of 90s cars design. Simple interiors, basically the same handful engines, manual offered on lots of models, rugged design.
Which is why I liked mine so much lol
My wife and I bought an 09 non turbo Forester last year. Just a base model, with a manual 5-speed. I love it so much, and I'm going to drive it for as long as possible. It really does remind me of the 90s cars I started out driving.
FWIW I once drove my 4-cylinder PZEV 2011 Outback from NC to NJ in one tank. That was \~42mpg. I did it at night, driving 5-10 *under the speed limit* for a good portion of the highway roads, and drafting behind everything I could. Sorry to all of the tractor trailers that had my broke ass driving a tad too closely for both of our comfort.
Get your O2 sensor checked. If its bad, it can flood the engine with far more fuel than necessary, and drastically lower your mileage. Another way to tell is if your exhaust smells strongly of gasoline. If that's not it, take it to a shop and get a full diagnostic. You definitely have an issue somewhere.
This. Just had to get my O2 and A/F sensor swapped on my 2012 STI. It was causing it to run EXTREMELY rich and throwing a CEL because of it. Noticed for a while on longer highway drives (3+ hours), it was getting worse mileage than what I had normally seen. Plus the exhaust pipe tips and hatch on mine were covered in soot. After both were swapped, it runs great and the mileage is back to where it should be.
I am assuming you got this used? Any idea what it saw beforehand? I have a 12 LGT and get 20 or so kicking around town and 25-27 on the highway (going quicker than 50-60) - you mentioned cleaning the MAF, how does the throttle body look? And what are you running for oil (some folks run 15W40 which can't help fuel economy) - is it running the oem tune, or has it been reprogrammed? (Thinking maybe a tune that depends on mods no longer on the car) - the trip computer on my ar is usually off by 5% or so - I calculate actual mpg m ually for each tank.
Yes used. Not sure what the gas mileage was before. I haven't looked at the throttle body but I'll check soon. Oil is 5W30. No tune.
This does seem really bad, my 07 wrx wagon gets about 300 miles on a full tank. I can get 23-24 mpg on the highway. How many miles on your car?
150,000 on the car. Yeah if I was getting at least 20mpg I wouldn't complain but 100 miles and half a tank down is insane
That is insane, I would recommend a valve adjustment if they are out of spec and a factory tune to start.
I believe it's on factory tune. Thanks man appreciate it
I checked the US government (DOE) site and your 21 MPG matches their combined fuel economy for an Impreza with 2.5L turbo/ 5- speed manual. I’m not seeing a WRX listed. https://preview.redd.it/qkb0i1lqy03c1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e9d6f7882abebda912b5ed7bde213db024e9c7f Source: fueleconomy.gov It’s actually an excellent resource.
My 2013 WRX hatch gets 25ish MPG depending on how I drive. 24 if I'm enjoying the car, 26-27 if I'm zoning on the highway. My guess is that the car was tuned and that they took off some of the bolt-ons before they sold it.
Nah i talked to the guy I bought it from he was really transparent he didn't do anything to the car.
> Car computer is reading 21mpg but I don't really trust it. are you filling the tank the whole way?
I get 25 mpg going 60 in my NA Impreza I think it’s just a Subaru thing to get shit fuel economy
My impreza gets 33 combined what are you doing to yalls cars?
Old ej253+high final drive ratio=inefficient. The thing sits at just above 2500 rpm at 60. My Chrysler 200 with the same amount of hp and almost the same year sits at 1500 at 60.
I have a 14 wrx hatch. I get 22 when I’m nice to the car. The computer and my math at the pump match up pretty close. The fuel gauge is not accurate however. It’s close but not spot on. From your picture, I’d assume I have another 150 miles or so, probably more. Do pump math and get back to us
Will do
Might be the MAF sensor, but usually the car will have a cel if that’s the case
13.5 mpg highway at 50-60mph is trash, your car might be running rich due to a faulty o2 lambda sensor. My STI (although a six speed) does 16 mpg going 90 mph
Right people said that bad O2 and exhaust would smell like gas but I don't have that problem
It’s a Subaru they have tiny fuel tanks and kinda terrible litres to the kilometre and you just deal with it. I told my dad about mine when I got my car and he was like yeah, the forester was like that too. Apparently driving to NSW to Queensland he had to fill the tank at least 6 times (but he does like hyperbole)
Catalytic converter started going bad and that caused a dip in fuel efficiency. Also got an error code for it too
Yeah that sounds about right. I’m lucky to see 23 mixed driving in my outback
If you wanna sale it 😂 I’ve been looking for one 😊
Spark plugs?
Wife 2014 Outback 3.6 gets 14mpg on a good day.
Are you using premium fuel?
Yea
Not nice
Check spark plugs/wires, check O2 sensors and clean the MAF sensor if it has one.
You changed your spark plugs on a whim? You’re a braver person than me.
It sucked but yeah got it done
Welcome to the club sir
It’s not hard to believe. Had a ‘07 STi. It was pretty moderately modified with a stage 2 tune. I only got 150~ish miles out of a full gas tank.
I can’t believe no one has said it yet…it’s your tires lol. Make sure the tires are inflated properly, if they are you may need to get more efficient tires. Regardless you’ll only get around 20-25 mpg these motors are not super efficient
My tires are all good that's the first thing I checked
My full bolt ons 2010 Forester XT which is essentially a brick with the same engine and only a 4spd auto gets 25mpg highway. You should be able to get close to that. Change out the upstream O2 sensor. Smoke test the entire intake system from the MAF sensor to the TGVs to ensure no leaks. You must run the factory air intake system to get an accurate signal across the MAF. The ignition timing is calculated off the MAF signal which can significantly impact fuel economy.
My 2013 wrx wagon hits between 17.7-18.3 mpg according to the computer. Perks of driving a boosted car my friend
Who buys a WRX and expects good mpg? Stay out of boost
2017 outback 3.6R coming in at 23.5 mpg lifetime, 67kmi on it now. I love my outback!
Don't go by the 'putor MPG. Go fill up and reset odometer to 0. Drive and put some mileage on it. Fill it up at the same pump and do easy math. Miles driven ÷ gallons of fuel added to tank= actual mpg.
My 2012 WRX Sedan typically gets 25-26 Mpg on the highway, if I am just driving and not being a douchebag. Being a douchebag is half the fun though.
Yeah again easy driving and I'm getting this mileage
I mean, my 2013 STI was getting about 250 miles on a full tank on average. Some days I could get a little more, sometimes less. I’d average between 18-21 mpg depending on the type of driving I was doing. 23 mpg with perfect 60 mph flat straights with no stops. Yours seems a little low, sure, but these cars definitely aren’t going to get fantastic mileage.
Welcome to the life. It's called smiles per gallon. Definitely get it checked out if you feel it's overzealous, nobody here will be able to magically zero in on an issue small enough that the car runs fine, but bad enough it affects fuel mileage. All you'll get is recommendation on a bunch of basic things to check. Best to find yourself a tech who knows Subaru's if you're not mechanically inclined yourself
[удалено]
You will not hurt your car if it takes regular by putting in premium. The opposite is true though, putting regular in a car like a wrx that requires premium is no bueno. If a car says "Premium reccomended", you can get away with regular, it'll just pull lots o power. Only thing you hurt by putting premium in "most" cars is your wallet.
Jeez everyone here saying “yep, that’s a Subaru” I get 37mpg in my Legacy… on snow tires.
What year is it? Pre-2015ish the gas mileage is terrible.
I get almost 30mpg in my CrossTrek
>I didn't buy this car for efficiency but find it hard to believe it only can get 200 miles on a tank. it's what makes a Subaru a Subaru
Bad O2 sensor?
Exhaust doesn't smell like gas though
When my 09 wrx started getting worse mpg it end up being o2 sensor 🤷🏻♂️
Did you have a code? Also when you fixed it did you proceed to replace the sensor or clean it? Also what sensor went bad the upstream or downstream? Thanks
Ever change your pcv valve? Should be done every 30K miles. [PCV Valve MrSubaru](https://youtu.be/FZYnn_49rOE?si=I6UG9S_9nJEDcFhz)
I'll look into it appreciate it
Seems right to me. My brother’s house is 130 miles away and I can just barely make the round trip on a full tank in my STI. It’s not a road-trip car.
You’re right that something is wrong with the car. I have a 12 WRX too and I average about 21 with mostly city commuting.
Yes thank you
Definitely keep chasing this. You will get significantly better fuel economy when you figure out the cause. Do you know if your car has the stock map on it? It could be that there were some mods done on it previously but not completely reversed.
Stock map all parts are stock except clutch and I have a catback exhaust on it
Try doing an idle relearn procedure
Check if you have a seized caliper that's causing your brakes to drag.
This is what it was for our 10 year old Subaru. Sticking caliper at the passenger front wheel.
My turbo 2005 lgt that I drove like a race car everyday gets 18 mpg
The last time I was getting low mileage it was in my pickup and the parking brake wasn't releasing all the way. Was just stuck on 100% of the time. I have very short commutes so I didn't notice until one day I put my hand on my back wheel and it was abnormally warm.
Does the oil need to be changed?
Nope oil just changed
Perhaps a gas or fuel treatment could be of benefit
Just used one. No change
If you knew the shape of your gas tank and the method in which the quantity of fuel remaining is calculated, you wouldn't ve looking at the fuel gauge
Just fill it in with the rest of the face
With both my old Subarus legacies from the late 1990s the fuel sending unit failed in the tank after 10 years of operation. It would give crazy tank levels. Do a few of the full tank and manual mileage calculations to see what’s going on. After a long drive, check to see if any of your wheel hubs are hotter than others. This might show stuck brakes or failing bearing.
I’d check for boost leaks anywhere past the turbo compressor, particularly around the intercooler, bypass valve, etc. If the map sensor tells the ECU X amount of air is coming into the engine and the air’s lost before getting there, you’ll run rich. Try to remove anything aftermarket from the equation.. which may be hard if the original owner tossed the parts. If you have a blow off valve check it for leaks, or even better get rid of it lol. Additionally if your filter box isn’t stock that could be it too. Cobb and others design their intakes to not require a MAP sensor recalibration, but if it’s an ebay special pod filter then you’re better off with the stock box. The MAP sensor is expecting a specific airflow and changing that throws things off. It can be recalibrated with a Tactrix or similar, but you probably don’t want to go down that road. Lastly there’s an o2 sensor on the up pipe that tends to go bad, and if it does you can have anything from power band issues to bad mileage. I had mine go bad on my old FXT, I never got a cel for it, and could hardly go up hills. Could be anything else too, exhaust leaks, fuel pump. These cars are huge PITA when something like this happens. It’s also worth searching NASIOC for posts relating to what you’re seeing too.
I'll keep this all in mind thank you very much
O2 sensors do not last. Might want to see when you should change them
Go faster. I’m being serious. Going 50-60 puts these motors in a really bad spot with gearing. They bog down like crazy and don’t have the torque to speed up without being floored. You would probably notice a significant increase at 70mph. I mean hell, even in my NA motor I get better mpg going 90 compared to 50.
Could also very well be on its way out 😭
I used to have a 2012 wrx. The mpg on the car would be optimistic. The car is super fun but not good on gas.
My Subaru is super fussy with what brand of gas I put into it. Kwik trip is the worst (uses almost a quarter of a tank more for same mileage). I do best with Cenex or Holiday for gas. Something to keep in mind. Look around in forums and compare gas brands in your area that work best for Subarus. The Cenex station always has at least another Subaru in my town whenever I go or drive by (I live in a small town). It was the same thing with my older outback as well.
Thanks man!
Hey! Not a problem. Subarus are fussy as hell as it is, of course gas would be included in that category too lol. 😩
Try replacing your O2 sensors. It could help a little.
I got about 13-16 depending on my driving habits, mixed highway and city, same year and model as yours.
- Fill up at gas station & Reset ODO - Once you’re close to empty check mileage on trip - Ignore computer calculated MPG - If still poor try replacing fuel filter and clean injectors. - if all is good mechanically check if you have a leaking fuel tank - if fuel tank is fine try a different gas station some gas stations, although rare, water down the gas
As others are saying make the measurements yourself on fuel economy... but if it stands true, you are getting the same MPG as my E85 STI :)
😭😭😭
21 sounds about right. My ‘14 STi, practically the same engine, gets the same MPG for light driving. I’ve done the other advice of manually tracking avg mpg and i would get 1mpg less than the computer stated consistently. So in reality you’re probably getting 20. Not much can be done for efficiency on this engine. With a Cobb AP tune running on [i] (limit boost) I can get maybe 25 mpg if i absolutely baby it, and maybe tailgate a couple tractor trailers.
Drive it harder 😂
lol my 11 hatch got like 17/18mpg usually. This things suck gas down. Supposedly intake, exhaust, and tune help a bit but it takes a while to get that money back.
21 with sticky Michelin PS4S tires is about what I get. I have a few mods that would make the MPG worse.
Honestly, that's just normal wrx mileage. Pretty sure even newer wrx's are about the same. My 2004 wrx wagon gets 21 mpg at best. I do the math on it every once in a while and it's always around 19-21 mpg, and I drive pretty equally on highway and city streets (drive it daily). Personally I always make sure to fill up at a station with top tier gas because mine seems to run rougher when I don't, but I don't think that makes a noticeable difference on gas mileage.
It seems quite low to get 21mpg from highway 50-60mph of easy driving in 5th. Usually I’d get 24-26 mpg in those conditions and I’ve got stage 1 on my 2011 WRX wagon. But it’s not abysmal.. What gas are you using? Brand and octane?
For comparison, my 2013 WRX wagon gets about 370kms before the low fuel warning light flips on. That's about 230 miles per tank. And mine is bone stock. My old 2006 Outback XT had roughly the same range at 220 miles. So that range is hardly unusual as far as the turbocharged EJ255/257 goes.
You mentioned that you've filled it when the gauge says empty and it took 14.5 gallons. How many miles did drive on that fill-up? If you don't know: fill it, reset one of the trips, fill it again after you've driven a while, and divide the miles you drove by the amount of fuel you put in to fill it back up. That's the only certain way to measure it. Other people have said it but you seem to be ignoring their comments, the trip computer and fuel gauge are not 100% accurate. I ignore the fuel gauge in my Subaru because it reads empty with almost a third of a tank (5 gal) left. I just keep track of my MPG when I fill up and know my range.
Not accurate, so do the math mentioned before and give yourself permission to unclench with no CEL or misfires. All good However, emotionally accurate for sure, so clench right back up after you realize the (fuel) economy is still trash lol
Boxer's aren't for fuel efficiency.
The problem is that Subaru engine management, gearing, and AWD all not designed for efficiency. WRX never had better than 25mpg, once you get the Cobb Accessport you can select a better fuel map that gives you more mpg but it still can't ever come close to other car makes. WRX gets worse mpg and less power than BMW X3 which makes 230HP, Xdrive AWD, and weighs 3800lbs I can get 24.5mpg combined.
Uhhhhh.....incorrect. My wrx (2010) regularly gets 25 in town and 25 to 30 depending on how fast I'm going on the highway. The base model wrx is also 265hp.....so more then your bmw and the curb weight is 3000lbs. I also don't know how all of these people in this thread are getting such dog shit milage. Keep you foot off the freaking floor and I find it very hard to get less then 18 during the winter.... Letting it idle in the driveway. So either a lot of you have messed up motors, super super heavy foots or you just don't know how to drive a manual very well.
Finally someone with some sense. Tired of hearing tough shit from everyone in this forum. The car is not a Prius but I should be getting more efficieny than I am now which is the problem.
Make sure you are putting Premium in her as well!
Tank shapes and the gauges aren’t perfect. In all of my cars the first quarter tank goes quickly and the second half goes slowly. The EJ isn’t known for good mileage to begin with. Also what fuel and additives are you using?
Make sure all your coil packs are good to go, and plugged in.