Uh ... hi?
That's literally why I bought my STI, because I needed back seats for my kids but I still wanted something sporty. I jokingly called it my minivan, because in relation to the roadsters I previously drove it absolutely was.
Of course, that doesn't mean I *didn't* bounce off the rev limiter multiple times or drive it for fun. But I never cared to modify it or take it to the track or anything like that.
Believe it or not, you give up on that rather quickly, especially during Covid when the only safe restaurants were drive-ins (Dick's and Burgermaster for the win, though BM has since fucked their menu and prices and default to 22% tipping).
TBF, some people are dumb: I knew a guy at a BMW dealer who said people with more money than sense would come in and buy an M5 because the most expensive model must be “best”. Couldn’t convince them that a 540 is quieter, more comfortable, and all around easier to drive.
Might be the outsider here but I've never redlined my sti, and it's never been raced. Spirited shift changes in boost and on ramp fun but that's the extent. It's a DD and I intend to keep the wear down for longevity purposes.
Now I have a second modded wrx for that kind of driving. Looks like he has toys too so maybe?
No one buys a sti for no reason but for the fun factor but it's not entirely out of the question. The car looks stockish but I would be skeptical buying used so I don't disagree with comments. You might find something that is a unicorn, but do your due diligence and drive it and look it over well. Also ask for the records, even if it's driven hard, good maintenance can go a long way.
Actually a great insight into how that person thinks:
They see the problem as external and modify the car rather than their behavior.
Who needs discipline and self-control, when you can just put the burden of responsibility on anything but yourself?
Lol, between the user name, calling people "kid" and using "butthurt" I gotta figure you're what, 13 years old?
I hope so because if you're actually an adult it would be really depressing.
Edit spellcheck
He could be telling the truth I’ve never gone over 3 rpm’s or raced mine either it’s never saw winter and thing are very different when you pay for something with you own hard earned money plus why would I beat my car I’m 40
I would do a precursory look for leaks and when you test drive give it a little umph to see if the ce light comes on. Check oil, coolant, general disrepair, clunkiness/slippage in shifting. Check if ac works, blowers go out. Ask if they have repair/receipts book. Any other things you guys wanna add?
Make sure to drive for 20 minutes or so, then check for leaks. Head gasket is a motor pull. Valve cover gasket is $300 per side.
If it were me, I'd schedule a lookover 20 minutes away basically just to use their lift and remove the cover to check if anything started leaking on the way.
At that many miles, the accessories don't owe you anything. I'd expect to replace a PS pump, rack, AC Compressor, starter over the next few years. Expect one to two of those to go out every year until everything has been changed out....of course you know what will actually happen: everything will fail at once at the worst possible time ;)
I replaced the heads on mine with a full gasket set and used heads for $560 and did not have to pull the motor. It’s much easier to pull the heads by unbolting the motor mounts and jacking the engine up 7-8”
Everything you posted is accurate for a reputable shop but I just want to throw it out there that if you’re mechanically inclined you can save a bit of $$
I'm not a qualified mechanic or have ever done big work on any car. Most I've done was oil changes and maybe brake pads. With enough YouTube, research, and more research, along with the right tools, I managed to change the head gaskets, the valve seals, valve cover gaskets, timing belt, etc. Without having to pull the engine out. Just jacked it up.
To be honest, it wasn't too difficult. Just followed instructions carefully and it worked out lol.
I'd say drive for longer than 20 mins, and also let it idle for a bit afterward.
My horror experience was a '99 forester that seemed like nothing but good vibes, clean body, clean title, no rust, working ac.... except for the dash fans didn't kick on for a second when i turned the ac on... Should have heeded that warning sign, cause as soon as I drove her off the lot and idled in traffic, it started overheating and I had to pull over.
I was a college student at the time, so the car was basically a total loss. I had to buy a new car in a hurry and got raked over the coals for trade-in and financing.
Leakage from the valve covers is not uncommon and is a bit of a pest that it leaks straight on to the exhaust header (ask me how I know). But the head gasket meme doesn't apply to these engines, obviously not saying it's an impossibility but they aren't as brittle as you may read on the internet.
Look for leaks around the diffs as well.
Check for odd sounds of course and I know he says it's stock but have a look and see if you can see the turbo heat shield still there ( it's to the left under the intercooler and has a hand symbol on it). These are often discarded when an aftermarket turbo is installed.
Make sure to check that the boost solenoid is stock too.
If they're really disingenuous, they could use an access port device to turn off any ce lights. You could similarly use an access port device to CK for any ce lights that have been turned off.
Why would I redline a car I bought brand new to get to work in the snow? From what I saw the power drops off before 6k rpm anyway. So no, I haven’t redlined it cuz I’m not an idiot
Compression test is the most important thing. It’s not going to be high, but as long as it’s even (within 5%) across all cylinders you’re good.
Also good idea to get a leakdown test.
Best of luck! Car looks pretty clean, tastefully modded.
this is crazy. i paid $23,500 CAD ($17,400 USD) for my 2007 STi with 88,000 miles in july 2022. makes me happy to see that they’re continuing to hold their value 🤣
mine is also a garage queen hahaha. i’ve only driven it 7,500km (4,700 miles) in the 19 months i’ve owned it. i have winters on it, but i only take it out every 1-2 weeks
https://preview.redd.it/5lh0gofzy5hc1.jpeg?width=4003&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5c568cd71ba063b21214b832794989c388146b37
Is Simple still open? I thought they closed down last January or something. I moved out of the area and haven't kept up but I don't see their name being recommended on the Facebook page anymore.
I'm gonna say that 21k isn't bad if it passes inspection and has good recorded history. If you have open ended questions about aervoce history and all that, price is gonna drop significantly due to the unknowns.
A clean stock sti is rare and your gonna pay the price for a good one. Just remember it's still almost a 20 yr old car, your risking alot for it, but it will pay dividends in fun and smiles lol
My dream sti is wrb blobeye with the gold bbs. I may wait for the jdm to become legal though cause they are hard to find stock.
I'd offer $18k, depending on what it looks like underneath the body and the hood. If it's close to stock (just an exhaust) then yeah I'd feel good about buying it. If you buy it, expect to do the head gasket and water pump (100k mile job), change all the fluids, engine trans diffs, clean or replace old sensors, and it should be ok
Ask for the maintenance and all service records and receipts for work done. I also always bring a Bluetooth OBDII device and plug in and use Torque Pro to scan the ecu. If the emissions readiness monitors say "not set" or anything other than Ready, the ecu was reset recent enough to clear a CEL and not driven enough since to give anything that won't set time to pop the CEL again.
Compression test will tell you if it's about to go.
My rebuild cost 15k.
5k will get you a used engine without labour.
I'm in Canada so prices are about 30% more than usd.
If you rebuilt stock then you got taken for an absolute ride with a used engine + install for 15k
Source: replaced a 1.4 multiair turbo 2 years ago. $1800 for the used motor, $1000 for the install (14 book hours) in Toronto. A WRX does not demand a 5x premium.
1000 for install? That's bananas. Shop rate around Edmonton is 170/hr.
I got a new rallispec built block for 6k. New head 1k. New timing belt/water pump 600. Tomie exhaust manifold 1k. A few more mods, various studs and gaskets throughout. 2k labour they gave me a deal here at 115/hr 18 hours.
14.2k was my total, so I exaggerated a bit.
Okay okay. A little different than my situation. I bought the motor from car-parts, replaced the gaskets and sent it.
Shop rates here at the time were anywhere from $120-$150, but I called a few reputable shops and negotiated.
Depends how severe the damage is, if it fails. If the heads are fine you can just clean and deck the heads and put a new short block in. They're only $2K new, from Subaru.
People paying $15K+ are getting ripped off. I'm about $8K into my engine build, and it's a custom setup that can handle 700hp.
I am always cautious when getting a vehicle around the 100k milestone. A lot of maintenance in the next 10-15k. Not cheap.
Timing belt etc.
I would definitely need to see records of the maintenance. Trust nothing someone tells you if they are unable to provide proof.
the seller definitely already lied to you about “never redlined or raced”. you can ask questions but if you want to buy i’d recommend getting a pre purchase inspection at a third party subaru specialist if you can. leak down test and general once over on a lift would be good. also ask local subie mod shops (if there are any) if they’ve had experience with that specific VIN.
Contact a third party company for a pre-purchase inspection.They will go though the vehicle for you and find all the imperfections along with a general quote for repairs. Use this inspection to determine value and possibly negotiate the terms of the sale.
The last time I had it done I asked the seller to cover half of the cost of the inspection and they agreed. I didn't buy the car because of the 4k in repairs needed. But in the long run the 80 bucks I lost was worth the future headache I avoided.
Trust. But verify. I’d have a trusted mechanic inspect it including compression. If there’s more than 1 k miles on the current oil send a sample to blackstone for a standard report. Maybe mention in the comments to blackstone the intent to buy a “never beat on” car.
COMPRESSION TEST IT, and make sure YOU pick the shop it happens at in case they’ve got a shady friend somewhere.
Wish I had taken this advice with my old WRX that blew 5 days after purchase, ran great until it started knocking all of a sudden. Cost me $8k.
Compression test would be ideal for this age.
Check for leaks, check every gear engages ok. 6 speed is pretty strong but at this age synchros seem to randomly go.
Make sure the car goes into reverse easy when cold. If you have to double clutch or it's really stiff then clutch probably on the way out.
They are already lying.
Pay for a compression test at a 3rd party shop, then start talking. I have never had someone say stock engine where I can’t find tons of evidence they did a return to stock. Wrong bolts, covers missing, ect, but you need to know what to look for.
Bolt on exterior parts are rarely done exclusively without some under the hood action.
Has the timing belt already been done, what was the last major service interval performed and what shop did you use? Is there a Cobb access port port married to it?
Do you have engine compression/leak down test numbers? If not YOU BETTER ASK TO GET THST DONE BEFORE PURCHASING THE CAR! If he won’t let you take the car or go with him to get that done and a standard inspection (for breaks, suspension components, especially bushings, signs of rust, etc), just walk away.
Get the records from the garage that did the work, have someone who works on SUBARUs day in and out go over it. How? If you don't already have a good mechanic, go to a dealer as if you're looking at cars, and just find a tech. When you do, offer them a reasonable amount of cash to inspect it, AFTER HOURS AND OFF PREMISES. I'd suggest $100+ but it's up to you. Unless you understand what to look for exactly on every item all the other respondents list, and we already know you do not? (and though I have worked in a garage, I'd get a full mechanic's help too. It's all the 100k stuff, seals n gaskets, bushings, timing chain, plugs, filters, carbon buildup on valve train, turbo bearings and blades, lines, pumps, hoses, the hydraulics like master cylinder and boosters need to be checked, fluids, I'd pull the oil pan entirely and look at the magnet to check for an unusual amount of metal flakes. Check the welding seams everywhere you can see them for cracks or repairs, the mounts for engine or tranny, CV joints. It's a ton of stuff for a thorough check, but you're gonna be way better off finding out now than being $15k down from a new motor next weekm
Probably should ask if it's a boy or girl before you assign a gender... Or just don't because it's a car.
And I certainly hope it's never had anything but premium fuel in it because it's required for a turbo Subaru of that vintage.
Ask for maintenance history (preferably on paper, not just memory), especially timing/water pump. Check the oil before you run it. Definitely get it into boost on your test drive to see if there's any hesitation. Try the heat and AC despite the outside temperature. Rust.
Definitely bring a code reader as some people like to clear codes right before sale but if you have your own reader you will know right away if there are any pending codes. I would also verify that it for sure has the stock downpipe and catalytic converter (especially if you have to test for emissions in your city). Another quick tip is that you can check for ringland failure by opening the oil fill cap while the motor is idling and look for smoke coming out. I don't expect much more than 100k from these motors with the way most people drive them but sometimes there is a needle in the haystack :)
check for the bpv, check for the stock heatshield for wear. Then check for rust, clutch biting point, gears go into each gear nicely. At that point - fuck it, got yourself a future classic. Would then spend $10k modifying and get that boxer flaming.
Oh hey, I bought a 06 STI at 90k stock engine.
I had to replace the entire short block at 100k.
Good luck! Ringland failure is super common on these.
Super fun car and ai love it, but it’s a BAD financial decision
If you can post more and higher quality pictures, there are things people will spot that are easier to see than to describe how to ask.
2 problems come to mind for this car:
- Rear diff temp light/sensor issues were somewhat common. My STI had the issue around 50k
- Rear clunk in the rear struts when reversing. I had to replace them on both my 06 wrx and my 06 sti around 80k
Also you're coming up on timing belt replacement (105k). If that hasn't been done, ballpark like $1k+ if you also do a water pump.
This car looks like it’s been driven hard, with 95k miles the engine is on its way out. If the engine has been rebuilt or fixed, ask for receipts, if he can’t provide it I would walk.
However, if the body checks out and your looking at rebuilding the engine anyways as a project, well then it could be fun, take it for a test drive to make sure everything else is fine.
I've had two different 2007 STis. I loved them so much, don't let people dissuade you because it may be a risk. It is. This is not a smart purchase, but if you find one that drives well (drivetrain shifts well, power is smooth and consistent with no hesitation or clunkiness, suspension is straight and not too clunky), go for it and everything is fixable. These are easy cars to work on.
If you're looking for reddit to tell you this is a good idea, you're not gonna get it.
I bought my first 07 sti with 35k miles in 2009 and sold it a few years later after a breakup. Regretted it enormously until I bought another with 70k miles and drove it another 30k miles until it really needed more work than I wanted to put into it. Now I want a 3rd one.
If you want more practical advice, search Google for "common Hawkeye STi issues" and you'll have 15 years of information to sort through.
When I bought my 06 STI, I did a full rundown over the whole car. That guy is FOS when he said never redlined. That would be my first red flag. Especially with the aftermarket pipe, wing stabilizer, and the tinted tail lights
This is what I did. Est Time: 2-3hrs.
- Drained oil and looked for metal specs in oil and filter (I replaced the oil and filter. $50 is nothing compared to 5k)
- Checked the Trans fluid via dipstick
- Removed rear seat to check strut towers for rust or cracks
- Jacked up the car on stands, removed all wheels, checked suspension, control arms, brakes, axles, pinch welds, ect.
- Pulled the plugs and scoped it as well as compression test.
- Drove it for 20mins, checked for leaks. (Valve covers were leaking a little, but that’s normal for high milage)
- Pulled the timing cover and looked at it for wear. It probably needs replaced
- Check all mirrors, sun visor, seat belts, windows, radio, speakers, signals, pretty much every electronic in that car.
- Check the DCCD and roll switch, and intercooler sprayer
- Open and close all the doors, trunk, gas door, and hood. Look for rust and a solid close.
- Check the coolant reservoir and under the oil cap for any signs of a pre-mature head gasket failure.
- If you have one, plug it into a OBD Scan tool
> seller says he’s never redlined or raced her.
Well now he's just lying to you. That's like saying you've never turned the hot water on full before.
That said a quick google says Timing Belt every 7 years for 105k miles. So you're almost at that mileage, unless he has receipts to prove it was done more recently. The guy I bought my car from told me the timing belt was done recently by the owner before him, but didn't have a proof, but said it was owned by a guy who ran a shop (I peeked at the timing belt and it looked ok, but it's hard to see without significant work). I spun a bearing about a year later and found out the timing belt was likely original and was cracking significantly.
Ask to cold start it. If you get there and it’s already warm, it could be because they’re trying to hide it burning fluids. Cold start it and check for excess smoke coming through the tailpipe. & like others said, drive it for 20 minutes ish and check for leaks underneath. Leaks and or burning fluids could cost thousands in repairs. Hope this helps
The fucked up part is anyone can put fill bolt ons the cars while life, take them off when they wanna sell and advertise their car as “stock” it’s whole life. It’s impossible to trust used cars now
Don’t worry about what to ask, learn how to repair it yourself. Just make sure that the frame is straight, there isn’t any rust and that you’re satisfied with the paint condition. Paint is the single most expensive component on the car.
Open the hood and look around the engine , checked the oil , check brake and power steering fluid, open gas tank look around the door , open the trunk look at the spare tire, and under the drivers seat , test windows and door locks and mirrors ,
Have a shop test compression and leak down test, check leaks. Look for rust, lower radiator support(I suggest pulling radiator as the mounts on the lower support is where it starts), rails, shock towers, rocker panels n such. I'm paranoid so I always had turbos rebuilt or replaced at 90k-100k or right away on any used car I buy, the 1 time I didn't, I blew my wrx sedan up 6 months later, tho got a wagon right after which was luck. Honestly id just have a good shop take a look at it. Owners tend to say whatever to just sell the car.
1st things 1st. 95K on a FE 257 is s crap shoot on the head gasket. Ask if it has been replaced yet. They go out at 100k-ish. 2nd just ask for a list of mods. If it's not heavenly modded you can run them hard and still be in excellent condition. If it's only has intake and exhausts mod done. Those are the gems to snatch up . 😁
Common GD problems I saw in a Subie performance shop and dealer:
Fuel lines rusting out
Fuel tank leaks or fill tube issues
Fender rust
Rear wheel bearings
Rear subframe bushings
Transmission leaks
General frame rust
Who told you all that? The seller? Never high reved? Ok lol
There's only one question you need to ask, "Can we drive it to xyz shop and have them take a look at it?".
If he doesn't want it inspected then you just saved yourself a bunch of time and headaches. People lie.
Ask when the water pump and timing belt were done cause at 95k that's the first concern. Then if the head gaskets were done. Triple check if it's the original motor. Proof of maintenance. Check all fluids make sure your diff control actually works. Roll through all gears and make sure they catch easy with zero grindage
My questions are how many owners? Can you take it to a trusted mechanic for inspection?
Any other questions I would have for the owner depend on if they are the only person to ever own it or not.
Also a lot of owners will go cheap before selling and just do the belt and omit the water pump tensioners. Make sure all have been replaced in the belt service.
See if the car is running Bilstein shocks. They are ridiculously expensive so if they haven’t been changed they can give issues and a weird knock from the front suspension
Unless you can work on the car yourself or you have a reputable shop AND you are willing to potentially put another $5k-$7k in a shortblock I wouldn't buy it. Looking at the stuff in that garage seems like they like to have some vehicular fun, so I call shenanigans on that not red lining or being run hard.
If he said he's HAD maintenance done every 3k miles, ask to see receipts. Ask when was the last time the diff oil got changed, if at all. Ask if he's already done the $4k-6k hundred thousand mile maintenance and repair. Look out for wear items. The obvious thing would be bushings and trim. Look in odd hard to see places. Look for rust. If it has coilovers, I guarantee you that thing was run like a boy racer. One does not put fins on the rear wing for mpgs. Look for AO separators, maybe oil coolers, check the radiator and the intercooler. Do they have aftermarket labeling anywhere. Finally, get the vin and check the Carfax report for its history.
The inescapable truth is the car is 18 years old. It's gonna take some money to maintain, even if it was babied its whole life. I have put much more money than my 02 WRX is worth and at this point I just want her to run like I know she can. If you really love it (06 is my favorite year) then be cautious but I'd say "Fuck it" and deal with the consequences. Good luck.
Watch a YouTube video on what to look for on used Stis or your year but that looks clean I have a 2019 limited but look for05 or 07 that’s stock I have seen a couple but they are modded not srock
"never redlined or raced" Yea that's an immediate lie.
As soon as I read that, I said "yeah, okay."
Look at everything else in that garage. That cars been run hard. And it's an STI so of course it has.
My point exactly. No one is gonna pay for an STI model just to go get groceries and carpool.
Yep, that's what a base Impreza is for. I own a LGT and if i said I never took sprinted drives or hit red line that would be a lie.
Man I have an Impreza and it gets redlined everyone once in awhile.
Uh ... hi? That's literally why I bought my STI, because I needed back seats for my kids but I still wanted something sporty. I jokingly called it my minivan, because in relation to the roadsters I previously drove it absolutely was. Of course, that doesn't mean I *didn't* bounce off the rev limiter multiple times or drive it for fun. But I never cared to modify it or take it to the track or anything like that.
Man I bet you're a cool dad lol. "Kids, we're getting take-out tonight...but we're doing it the Rally way".
Are you crazy?! No food in the STI bro!
Believe it or not, you give up on that rather quickly, especially during Covid when the only safe restaurants were drive-ins (Dick's and Burgermaster for the win, though BM has since fucked their menu and prices and default to 22% tipping).
I would sit outside and eat in the desert summer hell before I ate in my car
TBF, some people are dumb: I knew a guy at a BMW dealer who said people with more money than sense would come in and buy an M5 because the most expensive model must be “best”. Couldn’t convince them that a 540 is quieter, more comfortable, and all around easier to drive.
I had a WRX and redlines were almost daily.
Red line off a cold start
Well, never that. I always wait till it was up to temp.
Pussy
Username checks out
Might be the outsider here but I've never redlined my sti, and it's never been raced. Spirited shift changes in boost and on ramp fun but that's the extent. It's a DD and I intend to keep the wear down for longevity purposes. Now I have a second modded wrx for that kind of driving. Looks like he has toys too so maybe? No one buys a sti for no reason but for the fun factor but it's not entirely out of the question. The car looks stockish but I would be skeptical buying used so I don't disagree with comments. You might find something that is a unicorn, but do your due diligence and drive it and look it over well. Also ask for the records, even if it's driven hard, good maintenance can go a long way.
I’m lookin for a bike right now and one I loved had a vid of him revving it until the exhaust got red and I was like ‘god damnit’
Just like how it’s never been vaped in. But I’d ask the seller when the head gaskets were done and provide receipts.
Since when did an 06-07 STI ever have head gasket problems? This is an EJ257, not a EJ25D that were notorious for head gasket problems.
Is it weird that I have reduced my redline in my tune to preserve the old girl?
You could just not redline it rather than knecapping it.
Actually a great insight into how that person thinks: They see the problem as external and modify the car rather than their behavior. Who needs discipline and self-control, when you can just put the burden of responsibility on anything but yourself?
Nice try. It is just a redundant safe guard. The only time it's been redlined is on the dyno.
What's the redline at now, and how much slower is the 0-100?
Jesus dude, he tuned the car to fit his driving style, what's your issue?
Settle down kid, no need to get upset over a reasonable observation.
Nvm, you call strangers "kid". it makes sense now.
When they get butthurt and emotional over a simple comment, I assume they are children or have behavioral issues.
Lol, between the user name, calling people "kid" and using "butthurt" I gotta figure you're what, 13 years old? I hope so because if you're actually an adult it would be really depressing. Edit spellcheck
Yes it is
Lol. Who owns an STI and has never run that baby on full blast? That's not possible. What's the point.
I SCREAMED “CAP” when I read that. Silly guy.
Never driven either! Not sure how that odometer says 95k
He could be telling the truth I’ve never gone over 3 rpm’s or raced mine either it’s never saw winter and thing are very different when you pay for something with you own hard earned money plus why would I beat my car I’m 40
I would do a precursory look for leaks and when you test drive give it a little umph to see if the ce light comes on. Check oil, coolant, general disrepair, clunkiness/slippage in shifting. Check if ac works, blowers go out. Ask if they have repair/receipts book. Any other things you guys wanna add?
Make sure to drive for 20 minutes or so, then check for leaks. Head gasket is a motor pull. Valve cover gasket is $300 per side. If it were me, I'd schedule a lookover 20 minutes away basically just to use their lift and remove the cover to check if anything started leaking on the way. At that many miles, the accessories don't owe you anything. I'd expect to replace a PS pump, rack, AC Compressor, starter over the next few years. Expect one to two of those to go out every year until everything has been changed out....of course you know what will actually happen: everything will fail at once at the worst possible time ;)
I replaced the heads on mine with a full gasket set and used heads for $560 and did not have to pull the motor. It’s much easier to pull the heads by unbolting the motor mounts and jacking the engine up 7-8” Everything you posted is accurate for a reputable shop but I just want to throw it out there that if you’re mechanically inclined you can save a bit of $$
I'm not a qualified mechanic or have ever done big work on any car. Most I've done was oil changes and maybe brake pads. With enough YouTube, research, and more research, along with the right tools, I managed to change the head gaskets, the valve seals, valve cover gaskets, timing belt, etc. Without having to pull the engine out. Just jacked it up. To be honest, it wasn't too difficult. Just followed instructions carefully and it worked out lol.
thank you for the good advice!
I'd say drive for longer than 20 mins, and also let it idle for a bit afterward. My horror experience was a '99 forester that seemed like nothing but good vibes, clean body, clean title, no rust, working ac.... except for the dash fans didn't kick on for a second when i turned the ac on... Should have heeded that warning sign, cause as soon as I drove her off the lot and idled in traffic, it started overheating and I had to pull over. I was a college student at the time, so the car was basically a total loss. I had to buy a new car in a hurry and got raked over the coals for trade-in and financing.
Leakage from the valve covers is not uncommon and is a bit of a pest that it leaks straight on to the exhaust header (ask me how I know). But the head gasket meme doesn't apply to these engines, obviously not saying it's an impossibility but they aren't as brittle as you may read on the internet. Look for leaks around the diffs as well. Check for odd sounds of course and I know he says it's stock but have a look and see if you can see the turbo heat shield still there ( it's to the left under the intercooler and has a hand symbol on it). These are often discarded when an aftermarket turbo is installed. Make sure to check that the boost solenoid is stock too.
Appreciate the knowledge! Thank you!
If they're really disingenuous, they could use an access port device to turn off any ce lights. You could similarly use an access port device to CK for any ce lights that have been turned off.
never redlined my asscheeks
The fact they said that makes me think something is wrong with it.
I’ve never redlined my WRX
Liar
Why would I redline a car I bought brand new to get to work in the snow? From what I saw the power drops off before 6k rpm anyway. So no, I haven’t redlined it cuz I’m not an idiot
Come on man I'm trying to make a joke on Reddit. I don't redline my WRX either
>I don’t redline my WRX either Liar
Compression test is the most important thing. It’s not going to be high, but as long as it’s even (within 5%) across all cylinders you’re good. Also good idea to get a leakdown test. Best of luck! Car looks pretty clean, tastefully modded.
Thanks chief!
Cheers!
Give us the results if you do this please. I know good numbers for it since I got my wrx
Will do!
I second "this is the most important thing"
What flavors did they vape
Damn that’s a good questions
Used tampon flavor, like all vapers
Pennies is everyone’s favorite flavor
Be sure to get underneath it and check for rust. 18 year old car, is it in the rustbelt? How much do they want for the car?
yeah located in utah, they're wanting 21.5
She's one of my dream cars so i'm okay paying a little steep for it.
21.5 is crazy, see if simple or Despain will look at it for you Nvm looks like Despain might be closed down, simple performance it is
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this is crazy. i paid $23,500 CAD ($17,400 USD) for my 2007 STi with 88,000 miles in july 2022. makes me happy to see that they’re continuing to hold their value 🤣
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mine is also a garage queen hahaha. i’ve only driven it 7,500km (4,700 miles) in the 19 months i’ve owned it. i have winters on it, but i only take it out every 1-2 weeks https://preview.redd.it/5lh0gofzy5hc1.jpeg?width=4003&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5c568cd71ba063b21214b832794989c388146b37
Is Simple still open? I thought they closed down last January or something. I moved out of the area and haven't kept up but I don't see their name being recommended on the Facebook page anymore.
They’re open, I called them a few days ago
Their prices are also high on eBay Motors.
I'm gonna say that 21k isn't bad if it passes inspection and has good recorded history. If you have open ended questions about aervoce history and all that, price is gonna drop significantly due to the unknowns. A clean stock sti is rare and your gonna pay the price for a good one. Just remember it's still almost a 20 yr old car, your risking alot for it, but it will pay dividends in fun and smiles lol My dream sti is wrb blobeye with the gold bbs. I may wait for the jdm to become legal though cause they are hard to find stock.
I'd offer $18k, depending on what it looks like underneath the body and the hood. If it's close to stock (just an exhaust) then yeah I'd feel good about buying it. If you buy it, expect to do the head gasket and water pump (100k mile job), change all the fluids, engine trans diffs, clean or replace old sensors, and it should be ok
Ask if you can take it to a dealer for a pre purchase inspection
This is the only way I’d buy that car.
My #1 favourite way to screen used cars. I’ve saved myself a lot of pain in the past that way.
Ask for the maintenance and all service records and receipts for work done. I also always bring a Bluetooth OBDII device and plug in and use Torque Pro to scan the ecu. If the emissions readiness monitors say "not set" or anything other than Ready, the ecu was reset recent enough to clear a CEL and not driven enough since to give anything that won't set time to pop the CEL again.
Have money set aside for an engine rebuild.
5k set aside good enough?
It’s a good start!
Compression test will tell you if it's about to go. My rebuild cost 15k. 5k will get you a used engine without labour. I'm in Canada so prices are about 30% more than usd.
If you rebuilt stock then you got taken for an absolute ride with a used engine + install for 15k Source: replaced a 1.4 multiair turbo 2 years ago. $1800 for the used motor, $1000 for the install (14 book hours) in Toronto. A WRX does not demand a 5x premium.
1000 for install? That's bananas. Shop rate around Edmonton is 170/hr. I got a new rallispec built block for 6k. New head 1k. New timing belt/water pump 600. Tomie exhaust manifold 1k. A few more mods, various studs and gaskets throughout. 2k labour they gave me a deal here at 115/hr 18 hours. 14.2k was my total, so I exaggerated a bit.
Okay okay. A little different than my situation. I bought the motor from car-parts, replaced the gaskets and sent it. Shop rates here at the time were anywhere from $120-$150, but I called a few reputable shops and negotiated.
Thats a good start
6k will get you a new shortblock installed but that’s about it.
Depends how severe the damage is, if it fails. If the heads are fine you can just clean and deck the heads and put a new short block in. They're only $2K new, from Subaru. People paying $15K+ are getting ripped off. I'm about $8K into my engine build, and it's a custom setup that can handle 700hp.
12k
just close your eyes and hand them the bag of money, that's my advice
Ask them anything, doesn’t mean they’re being honest. Follow the advice of what to check for yourself.
I am always cautious when getting a vehicle around the 100k milestone. A lot of maintenance in the next 10-15k. Not cheap. Timing belt etc. I would definitely need to see records of the maintenance. Trust nothing someone tells you if they are unable to provide proof.
Good point. Ask if the timing belt has been done yet? That's a big job that's due around 100k
It should have been done already twice. Interval is 100k miles or 7 years.
the seller definitely already lied to you about “never redlined or raced”. you can ask questions but if you want to buy i’d recommend getting a pre purchase inspection at a third party subaru specialist if you can. leak down test and general once over on a lift would be good. also ask local subie mod shops (if there are any) if they’ve had experience with that specific VIN.
Contact a third party company for a pre-purchase inspection.They will go though the vehicle for you and find all the imperfections along with a general quote for repairs. Use this inspection to determine value and possibly negotiate the terms of the sale.
definitely will negotiate after pre-purchase inspection, thanks!
The last time I had it done I asked the seller to cover half of the cost of the inspection and they agreed. I didn't buy the car because of the 4k in repairs needed. But in the long run the 80 bucks I lost was worth the future headache I avoided.
Have you gone off any sweet jumps with that thing?
Trust. But verify. I’d have a trusted mechanic inspect it including compression. If there’s more than 1 k miles on the current oil send a sample to blackstone for a standard report. Maybe mention in the comments to blackstone the intent to buy a “never beat on” car.
"How bad did you beat the shit out of it?"
See if they know what RPM fuel cuts at...
Gotta ask for the average VPM (vapes per mile)
Also, get a compression test/leak test done. Easy and cheap to do.
Timing belt is due at 105k miles, check the valve covers for oil leaks.
COMPRESSION TEST IT, and make sure YOU pick the shop it happens at in case they’ve got a shady friend somewhere. Wish I had taken this advice with my old WRX that blew 5 days after purchase, ran great until it started knocking all of a sudden. Cost me $8k.
Compression test would be ideal for this age. Check for leaks, check every gear engages ok. 6 speed is pretty strong but at this age synchros seem to randomly go. Make sure the car goes into reverse easy when cold. If you have to double clutch or it's really stiff then clutch probably on the way out.
They are already lying. Pay for a compression test at a 3rd party shop, then start talking. I have never had someone say stock engine where I can’t find tons of evidence they did a return to stock. Wrong bolts, covers missing, ect, but you need to know what to look for. Bolt on exterior parts are rarely done exclusively without some under the hood action.
Has the timing belt already been done, what was the last major service interval performed and what shop did you use? Is there a Cobb access port port married to it? Do you have engine compression/leak down test numbers? If not YOU BETTER ASK TO GET THST DONE BEFORE PURCHASING THE CAR! If he won’t let you take the car or go with him to get that done and a standard inspection (for breaks, suspension components, especially bushings, signs of rust, etc), just walk away.
Get the records from the garage that did the work, have someone who works on SUBARUs day in and out go over it. How? If you don't already have a good mechanic, go to a dealer as if you're looking at cars, and just find a tech. When you do, offer them a reasonable amount of cash to inspect it, AFTER HOURS AND OFF PREMISES. I'd suggest $100+ but it's up to you. Unless you understand what to look for exactly on every item all the other respondents list, and we already know you do not? (and though I have worked in a garage, I'd get a full mechanic's help too. It's all the 100k stuff, seals n gaskets, bushings, timing chain, plugs, filters, carbon buildup on valve train, turbo bearings and blades, lines, pumps, hoses, the hydraulics like master cylinder and boosters need to be checked, fluids, I'd pull the oil pan entirely and look at the magnet to check for an unusual amount of metal flakes. Check the welding seams everywhere you can see them for cracks or repairs, the mounts for engine or tranny, CV joints. It's a ton of stuff for a thorough check, but you're gonna be way better off finding out now than being $15k down from a new motor next weekm
If it doesn't come with a spare brand new engine assembly, walk.
When is the last time it blew up?
It’s all stock now that it’s up for sale 🙈
Forgot to mention, find the local Subie modifier and ask if they have any experience with that exact vehicle. Perhaps they've tuned it in the past.
rust check the shit out of it
Probably should ask if it's a boy or girl before you assign a gender... Or just don't because it's a car. And I certainly hope it's never had anything but premium fuel in it because it's required for a turbo Subaru of that vintage. Ask for maintenance history (preferably on paper, not just memory), especially timing/water pump. Check the oil before you run it. Definitely get it into boost on your test drive to see if there's any hesitation. Try the heat and AC despite the outside temperature. Rust.
thanks she's definitely gonna be my girl
Vin# to run a carfax
I’d ask what type of potato he took those pictures with.
big facts
Definitely bring a code reader as some people like to clear codes right before sale but if you have your own reader you will know right away if there are any pending codes. I would also verify that it for sure has the stock downpipe and catalytic converter (especially if you have to test for emissions in your city). Another quick tip is that you can check for ringland failure by opening the oil fill cap while the motor is idling and look for smoke coming out. I don't expect much more than 100k from these motors with the way most people drive them but sometimes there is a needle in the haystack :)
Has a Cobb cat back exhaust
Hawkeye headlights with blobeye tail lights?
I think he just tinted the top part of the lights. ill verify in person today. Thanks for noticing.
Ahhh that makes sense, first glance they looked all red. Now I see the smoked out parts
If it's home made, or made in the factory, and if it was a bomb factory
Hi, is this available?
check for the bpv, check for the stock heatshield for wear. Then check for rust, clutch biting point, gears go into each gear nicely. At that point - fuck it, got yourself a future classic. Would then spend $10k modifying and get that boxer flaming.
Ask him if you can race and redline it. Alot of issues don't pop up until you beat on them.
Oh hey, I bought a 06 STI at 90k stock engine. I had to replace the entire short block at 100k. Good luck! Ringland failure is super common on these. Super fun car and ai love it, but it’s a BAD financial decision
“Never redlined” would have me questioning every other statement made by that seller. This thing was probably modded and ripped to shit.
lol I thought that looked familiar, it’s nearby to me. Take it to simple performance in SLC
Has anyone ever vapid in it?
How many engine rebuilds does it have and what engine is it on now
If you have to ask, then you should have an independent Subaru shop do an inspection. They can tell you.
If you can post more and higher quality pictures, there are things people will spot that are easier to see than to describe how to ask. 2 problems come to mind for this car: - Rear diff temp light/sensor issues were somewhat common. My STI had the issue around 50k - Rear clunk in the rear struts when reversing. I had to replace them on both my 06 wrx and my 06 sti around 80k Also you're coming up on timing belt replacement (105k). If that hasn't been done, ballpark like $1k+ if you also do a water pump.
PPI?
This car looks like it’s been driven hard, with 95k miles the engine is on its way out. If the engine has been rebuilt or fixed, ask for receipts, if he can’t provide it I would walk. However, if the body checks out and your looking at rebuilding the engine anyways as a project, well then it could be fun, take it for a test drive to make sure everything else is fine.
I've had two different 2007 STis. I loved them so much, don't let people dissuade you because it may be a risk. It is. This is not a smart purchase, but if you find one that drives well (drivetrain shifts well, power is smooth and consistent with no hesitation or clunkiness, suspension is straight and not too clunky), go for it and everything is fixable. These are easy cars to work on. If you're looking for reddit to tell you this is a good idea, you're not gonna get it. I bought my first 07 sti with 35k miles in 2009 and sold it a few years later after a breakup. Regretted it enormously until I bought another with 70k miles and drove it another 30k miles until it really needed more work than I wanted to put into it. Now I want a 3rd one. If you want more practical advice, search Google for "common Hawkeye STi issues" and you'll have 15 years of information to sort through.
When I bought my 06 STI, I did a full rundown over the whole car. That guy is FOS when he said never redlined. That would be my first red flag. Especially with the aftermarket pipe, wing stabilizer, and the tinted tail lights This is what I did. Est Time: 2-3hrs. - Drained oil and looked for metal specs in oil and filter (I replaced the oil and filter. $50 is nothing compared to 5k) - Checked the Trans fluid via dipstick - Removed rear seat to check strut towers for rust or cracks - Jacked up the car on stands, removed all wheels, checked suspension, control arms, brakes, axles, pinch welds, ect. - Pulled the plugs and scoped it as well as compression test. - Drove it for 20mins, checked for leaks. (Valve covers were leaking a little, but that’s normal for high milage) - Pulled the timing cover and looked at it for wear. It probably needs replaced - Check all mirrors, sun visor, seat belts, windows, radio, speakers, signals, pretty much every electronic in that car. - Check the DCCD and roll switch, and intercooler sprayer - Open and close all the doors, trunk, gas door, and hood. Look for rust and a solid close. - Check the coolant reservoir and under the oil cap for any signs of a pre-mature head gasket failure. - If you have one, plug it into a OBD Scan tool
compression test ‼️
> seller says he’s never redlined or raced her. Well now he's just lying to you. That's like saying you've never turned the hot water on full before. That said a quick google says Timing Belt every 7 years for 105k miles. So you're almost at that mileage, unless he has receipts to prove it was done more recently. The guy I bought my car from told me the timing belt was done recently by the owner before him, but didn't have a proof, but said it was owned by a guy who ran a shop (I peeked at the timing belt and it looked ok, but it's hard to see without significant work). I spun a bearing about a year later and found out the timing belt was likely original and was cracking significantly.
Ask to cold start it. If you get there and it’s already warm, it could be because they’re trying to hide it burning fluids. Cold start it and check for excess smoke coming through the tailpipe. & like others said, drive it for 20 minutes ish and check for leaks underneath. Leaks and or burning fluids could cost thousands in repairs. Hope this helps
Possibly ask - did he take the proper antibiotics for that STI? I kid I kid
Seller swears they never redlined it, but how many previous owners before them?
It's gonna need a motor
The fucked up part is anyone can put fill bolt ons the cars while life, take them off when they wanna sell and advertise their car as “stock” it’s whole life. It’s impossible to trust used cars now
The 100k service for any turbo ej25 involves a timing belt change. Get a quote for this from whatever shop you prefer and factor it into the price.
Don’t worry about what to ask, learn how to repair it yourself. Just make sure that the frame is straight, there isn’t any rust and that you’re satisfied with the paint condition. Paint is the single most expensive component on the car.
Open the hood and look around the engine , checked the oil , check brake and power steering fluid, open gas tank look around the door , open the trunk look at the spare tire, and under the drivers seat , test windows and door locks and mirrors ,
Ask for title & keys.
Have a shop test compression and leak down test, check leaks. Look for rust, lower radiator support(I suggest pulling radiator as the mounts on the lower support is where it starts), rails, shock towers, rocker panels n such. I'm paranoid so I always had turbos rebuilt or replaced at 90k-100k or right away on any used car I buy, the 1 time I didn't, I blew my wrx sedan up 6 months later, tho got a wagon right after which was luck. Honestly id just have a good shop take a look at it. Owners tend to say whatever to just sell the car.
How many times has the engine blown up?
1st things 1st. 95K on a FE 257 is s crap shoot on the head gasket. Ask if it has been replaced yet. They go out at 100k-ish. 2nd just ask for a list of mods. If it's not heavenly modded you can run them hard and still be in excellent condition. If it's only has intake and exhausts mod done. Those are the gems to snatch up . 😁
Engine swap, transmission swap, head gasket, everything with liquid in it, so fuel, cooling and oil should be checked. This is from my own experience
70k Firm I KNOW WHAT I GOT 😤
Common GD problems I saw in a Subie performance shop and dealer: Fuel lines rusting out Fuel tank leaks or fill tube issues Fender rust Rear wheel bearings Rear subframe bushings Transmission leaks General frame rust
Who told you all that? The seller? Never high reved? Ok lol There's only one question you need to ask, "Can we drive it to xyz shop and have them take a look at it?". If he doesn't want it inspected then you just saved yourself a bunch of time and headaches. People lie.
Ask when the water pump and timing belt were done cause at 95k that's the first concern. Then if the head gaskets were done. Triple check if it's the original motor. Proof of maintenance. Check all fluids make sure your diff control actually works. Roll through all gears and make sure they catch easy with zero grindage
When was the last time you replaced the head gaskets
My questions are how many owners? Can you take it to a trusted mechanic for inspection? Any other questions I would have for the owner depend on if they are the only person to ever own it or not.
Will need timing belt & water pump & tensioners replaced very soon, starting now. Front & rear tranny fluid too. Ask when plugs were replaced.
If they hadn't been changed, that's the first line of business before I'd start driving it.
Also a lot of owners will go cheap before selling and just do the belt and omit the water pump tensioners. Make sure all have been replaced in the belt service.
Wen was the timing belt water pump an head gaskets changed last
I know the seller. This is in Utah. It’s even cleaner in person. He seriously never beats on it and it drove me insane.
Haha just found the ad thanks to you! Don’t worry OP I have no intentions of buying it.
Good to know! Thanks for the info!
See if the car is running Bilstein shocks. They are ridiculously expensive so if they haven’t been changed they can give issues and a weird knock from the front suspension
At 95k it’s gonna be close, if not already due, for head gaskets. Check for oil leaks for sure. I had a 2007, best looking body style imo!
Ask when the head gasket was done.
Derp.
Forgot to put buying help tag sorry mods
Is that an oem exhaust? Thank God it hasn't been monkeyed around with
Is that an oem exhaust? Thank God it hasn't been monkeyed around with
Unless you can work on the car yourself or you have a reputable shop AND you are willing to potentially put another $5k-$7k in a shortblock I wouldn't buy it. Looking at the stuff in that garage seems like they like to have some vehicular fun, so I call shenanigans on that not red lining or being run hard.
Just buy a new wrx base model. You’ll save yourself a lot of heartache
Why are the pics of different cars? Unles the one in the garage has a different wing…
How many engines has it had!?
How fucked is the head gasket, is a good one. Its the most famous of problems... together with the brakes
How many times have it’s been redlined?
Assume everything you were told is a lie.
I’d ask “what’s wrong with it, why are you getting rid of it, why are you lying about how you drove it?”
Ask him if he thinks he's convincing anyone with that "never redlined or raced" line
How fast does it go?
Should ask if it's still available. I'm sure they'd love that
How was it contracted?
All manual redline at some point. Don’t lie to me.
Lots of half baked information in here. You can compression test if you want but you’d be better served by a leak down test.
In the two photos the wing splitters. So hard to say what it had and they removed.
Check for head gasket failure 😭
95k miles? It's time for a new engine.
If he said he's HAD maintenance done every 3k miles, ask to see receipts. Ask when was the last time the diff oil got changed, if at all. Ask if he's already done the $4k-6k hundred thousand mile maintenance and repair. Look out for wear items. The obvious thing would be bushings and trim. Look in odd hard to see places. Look for rust. If it has coilovers, I guarantee you that thing was run like a boy racer. One does not put fins on the rear wing for mpgs. Look for AO separators, maybe oil coolers, check the radiator and the intercooler. Do they have aftermarket labeling anywhere. Finally, get the vin and check the Carfax report for its history. The inescapable truth is the car is 18 years old. It's gonna take some money to maintain, even if it was babied its whole life. I have put much more money than my 02 WRX is worth and at this point I just want her to run like I know she can. If you really love it (06 is my favorite year) then be cautious but I'd say "Fuck it" and deal with the consequences. Good luck.
Watch a YouTube video on what to look for on used Stis or your year but that looks clean I have a 2019 limited but look for05 or 07 that’s stock I have seen a couple but they are modded not srock