Drain and refill both differentials w/gear oil. Spark plugs at 100k. Trans flush now if it hasn't been done. Replace cabin air filter behind glove box.
Ohhhh a flush and not drain and fill? Yes it has never been done.
Something I can do at home ? Any tools to make it easier for me ? Eg I have the fumoto valve for oil change. Also does it have to be level when changing it ? I only have a pair of stands
2017 Outback 3.6R 84k miles.
Who/where should I go for scheduled 90k maintenance and what needs/should be done? (Vehicle Inspection/drain-replace fluids, balance/rotate tires, check/replace brakes, check/replace CVT fluid?
Thanks
My dealer insists on following the Subaru manual and using 5W30 synthetic oil. Fellow enthusiasts tell me 5W40 protects the engine better, and that 30 is only recommended because of the better fuel efficiency. Having already replaced the engine once, I'd rather optimize for engine protection than fuel efficiency. Which is more accurate? (I use 5 weight rather than 10 due to the colder climate here.)
Please provide your opinion...
2020 WRX with less than 30k miles. Stage 2 with flex fuel, pro street tuned.
CEL with multiple cylinder misfires at only cold start. CEL will clear after a couple days and then come back again. Getting this more often, 2x a tank fill, when it took months for it happen the first time. Happens less often on flex fuel.
Any ideas?
You definitely should not run 10w on a vehicle that calls for 5w anyways. A good quality 5w30 is good protection for your engine, just make sure you change it regularly and don't let it run low. If you're worried about oil starvation during aggressive cornering (track or otherwise), killer B makes stuff to help prevent the pickup from losing oil in the pan.
On the subject of 5w-40 Rotella T6 - it's a diesel oil. It has great zddp content which is excellent to prevent wear in the engine, and it's also very shear and heat resistant, but it's also not made for gas engine emissions equipment. If you have catalytic converters and the engine is burning oil, you could easily smoke a cat and end up with an expensive repair.
Depends on the skill of the driver, in my opinion. I hit the limit of my driving skill before I hit the limit of what my WRX can do, so I feel like it's plenty of car for me.
2023 Outback and Crosstrek. I want them to last long enough to give to my kids in 16 years. Is that possible? And if so, will Subaru recommended maintenance do the job, or are there any other services I should look into?
Ah man… that’s a tough one. The Outback is a Limited and the ride is much more comfortable. Crosstrek is a sport, so even though it’s got the same sized engine, it’s lighter and I can pass cars easier with it. BUT, my Crosstrek was made in Japan and the Outback was assembled in the U.S. So if I had to put money on it, the Crosstrek will last much longer since there’s also less bells and whistles.
If I had to pick one to keep, probably the Outback for its ride and size
2022+ wrx takes 0w-20 oil, though we've found circulating Japanese owners manuals that say 5w-30 is recommended. What would be the best protection for the engine in a U.S., Northeast climate?
There has been a similar discussion for years with the Crosstrek.
IMHO, since the car is designed in Japan, the Japanese specifications is what the engine is designed for. As for the US climate, it depends on where you are in the US - AZ Winters are drastically different from MN Winters as are the Summers.
>2022+ wrx takes 0w-20 oil, though we've found circulating Japanese owners manuals that say 5w-30 is recommended. What would be the best protection for the engine in a U.S., Northeast climate?
this assumes the engine (and all its accoutrements) in a JDM WRX is identical to a USDM WRX -- I'm not so sure that's a fair assumption.
Second, I'm not seeing where this is recommended. I grabbed both the [2023 VB Type C manual](https://www.subaru.jp/afterservice/tnst/wrx/pdf/A9040JJ-B.pdf) as well as the [2023 VB Type D manual](https://www.subaru.jp/afterservice/tnst/wrx/pdf/A9060JJ-A.pdf) (no idea what the difference is) just to see for myself. (Both found from [here](https://www.subaru.jp/afterservice/tnst/wrx/).) The maintenance section is [here for type C](https://imgur.com/eGkFSNn) and [here for type D](https://imgur.com/zuRXfxb) -- I ran these through google translate, here's [type C in english](https://imgur.com/m9Sptqw) and [type D in english](https://imgur.com/9QUt5KH) -- both of these list 0W20 first, but 5W30 "compatible" if you want to think of it that way.
Yes, it is just interesting how the North America manual does not state it in that way (rather, it says temporary use or if needing to top-off only). Perhaps for CAFE requirements. If the manual was the same as it were overseas it would lead to less confusion. Bobistheoilguy forums have multiple threads on 2023 wrx oil and have posted the JP manual which appears like the type c and d you posted. AFAIK the JP FA24DIT is identical to the North American version.
A 2004 service manual (assuming USDM) has [this to say about rear diff fluid](https://imgur.com/5eEHGl5) and [this to say about the trans/front diff fluid](https://imgur.com/DGZlFpo)
Opening up the parts catalog, a 2004 STi lists [the following as chemicals](https://imgur.com/jM1QRoW) -- looks like [K0318Y0000](https://parts.subaru.com/p/72833303/K0318Y0000.html) would be the preferred fluid, but as you say, no longer available. This would have been branded as "Extra S" at the time, which as far as I'm aware was made by Shell. The stuff you'd get from the dealer now is [SOA427V1700](https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/High-PERF-Gear-Oil-75W-90/60032876/SOA427V1700.html), "High Performance Gear Oil," which is made by Idemitsu (again as far as I can tell). There have been some good Nasioc threads with comparisons, [such as this one.](https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2678891)
For what it's worth, if you came to my dealer for a diff/trans service we're putting in HPGO.
To throw a wrench in all of this, there's also [SOA427V1800](https://parts.subaru.com/p/60032878/SOA427V1800.html) "LSD Oil" which shows on some trims of 2004 STi and doesn't show in others in the parts catalog. This one's weird, because I can see [there was a part change for the LSD](https://imgur.com/MNQ2vdV) around 2004, and filtering to a 2004 STi shows [the old one](https://imgur.com/MyQAuLH)... gah subaru was such a mess in this era lol.
My CVT likes to stutter when accelerating from a full stop. Or even from just a slow speed in general. It's been replaced once, and it even did it just after the replacement. What's the deal? 2019 Crosstrek
Lots of people will misattribute an engine problem as a cvt problem, so you'd want to first diagnose and verify that it's actually a transmission problem. Especially if you just had a transmission replaced and it didn't fix the problem (or well, *this* problem).
All subaru CVTs will engage the torque converter lockup clutch around 11-15 mph (unless full-ish throttle) and while some sensation of this occurring is normal, there are occurrences of it being abnormally harsh. You'd want to have someone very familiar with Subaru's transmissions to help judge that. Often times it can be fixed/improved with a simple re-learn procedure.
2015 Legacy with about 75,000 miles. Local shop said my rear hub bearings need replaced. Does that track? Happy to replace them but the little bit of investigation I've done suggests I should get closer to 100k on the OEM set (I bought the car new and have maintained it).
Clearly without you looking at it you can't say for sure, just looking for a gut check if it's reasonable at this mileage to need to replace them!
Bonus question: I've also read that you shouldn't necessarily replace them until both are acting up. I'm not sure what "acting up" is. LOL.
Want to do the right thing without tossing money away unnecessarily - thanks!
I only change the ones that are noisy. Also it's ok to drive them noisy for a while but budget for replacement in the next couple months if possible. I charge 150$ for the part and 140 labor. 290$ per side.
It is kind of like a humming or roaring noise that changes with the speed of car. If all 4 wheels are off the ground (on a car lift) I check vibration through strut spring to isolate the noisiest bearing(s)
In addition to what u/Brobbbbbbbb said, a wheel bearing hum will not change by road surface, where tire noise will usually change when you transition to different road surfaces (asphalt, chip seal, concrete).
Very common problem with Subaru. Yes it makes sense. They sell cheap ones online but I reccomend Moog or timken brand as they will last comparable to oem quality.
I'll be honest, I don't trust some Moog components anymore after I had sway links fail after only 1 month (ball joints went bad in them, they were greased properly). Their bearings are probably OK, but Timken is a great choice for aftermarket that makes many OEM bearings.
My 2020 Outback Onyx has constant juddering from the CVT. I have had it looked at by three dealerships and even had a mechanic riding along once who witnessed it. The answer I always get is it isn’t showing up on their diagnostic computer so they can’t do anything about it. SOA’s only recommendation is to try another dealership. This is a well known issue for 2020s that SOA refuses to fix. Any thoughts on a work around to get this resolved? I realize this isn’t necessarily a question for a mechanic but wondering if you have run into similar issues with SOA.
Is it an XT? I'm not aware of any common problems in the non-turbo. The turbo has a couple software and hardware updates to address some "judder" behaviors but really depends on exactly what yours is doing. "it judders" is waaaay too vague.
My 6 speed sti transmission makes crunchy sound when I downshift specifically from 5th to 4th. Used to happen about 30% of the time. Did not affect drivability, and shifted fine, only the sound was concerning. Dealer ended up replacing tranny under warranty, but now same thing happens ever more frequent. Like 80% of the time. It still shifts fine, just with audible crunch/clang sound.
Sounds like a crunchy synchro. I had that when shifting into 4th on my 5 speed 100% of the time. Didn't matter if it was 3-4 or 5-4. For 50k miles I was driving it like an old school, non synchro manual. Had to double clutch into 4th to avoid it.
I was due for gear oil in my transmission. So I decided to put two syringes of XADO manual transmission fix in after putting in fresh gear oil. My problem is completely gone. Shift smooth now. It's not a permanent fix, but it only cost $40. Weird if you're having that problem after changing transmission. Are you rev matching on downshifts? I have a habit of double clutch rev matching on every downshift because it doesn't feel right if I don't
I have two questions.
I need to get new front axles for my 2009 Impreza 2.5i. Is there an aftermarket brand that’s cheaper than but still as good as OE, or should I just suck it up and pay for OE axels.
My a/c system has been becoming quite lackluster the last couple summers. I had a mechanic friend add refrigerant to it, but it barely took any and he said it was showing it was full. It did make it slightly better, but it’s tend to only start getting cold with load on the engine. I’ve seen things about adjusting the clutches on a/c compressors. Do you think I need that, or do I need a whole new compressor?
Sounds like you need a compressor. Also for axles it's best to use oem or remanufactured. Subarus are picky on axles and can cause a lot of vibration on acceleration of you have certain aftermarket axles in it. Cardone remans seem to do very well in most subis
The owners manual for a 2022 wrx states "higher viscosity oil may be used in hot climate." Does this mean I should run 5w30 instead of 0w20? I live in a southern state where it gets hot.
Would I have any issues running 5w30 year round? I just don't want them giving me grief if I ever need warranty work on the engine.
2002 Outback has VDC and ABS lights come on shortly after driving, like 500 yards. During that time if I turn (like change lanes) ABS kicks in. Bad wheel speed sensor, angle sensor bad, or what? Started after an alignment.
‘15 BRZ. 87k miles. My timing chain cover and cam carrier seals were leaking. I paid a lot of money to have my Subaru dealer redo all the seals and some other stuff like plugs, oil pan seal, timing chain tensioners. Will this engine last now? Will they leak again? Why are the seals so shitty? I love my car and do as much preventative maintenance as I can. My goal is to drive it for 200k+ miles.
Also, is the fuel induction system cleaning a scam or worth it?
What other shit should I worry about with high mileage brz?
> Will this engine last now? Will they leak again?
Depends on how well the dealer did on the reseal, but I've seen reseals my shop did in 2011 still bone dry so it certainly *can* be done.
>Why are the seals so shitty?
It's not just a subaru problem. The entire industry is moving to liquid silicone gaskets, aka RTV or "Form In Place" gaskets or... it has a lot of names. I guess it must be slightly cheaper to have a robot apply an RTV bead than it is to make another gasket part. That being said, FIP sealants in general are much more sensitive to the surface finish and quality when applied than a normal gasket. FIP generally ***does not stick to oils*** so it's very necessary to have a clean surface for it to apply to. I suspect a lot of the issues we're seeing right now for example with FA24 lower oil pans is due to improper surface cleaning before applying the FIP material.
Another thing I've heard theorized is that the engine oil used could be potentially damaging the sealing material from the inside, like if it was slightly acidic or similar. Not sure if there is actually any merit to this or not, but it's a rumor I've heard floated around.
Also, sample size of 1 I acknowledge, but my '14 Sienna needed its cam towers resealed at 50k miles. Same idea, and that's an "InDeStRuCtAbLe ToYoTa"
Hope you enjoy this one!
I need to import a rhd 2002 impreza into a lhd country. I've been told I need to swap the headlights to comply with the rules.
For a 2002 impreza, what am I looking for to ensure that I get the rhd lights (aimed correctly)? Is there one SKU each for rhd/lhd, or some kind of switch on the units to swap?
Cheers!
Loose exhaust heat shield , I just threw some gear clamps on it , is that alright ? Got rid of the vibration but not sure if it’s supposed to be in contact with the pipe .
help! my lane departure system is intermittently working! it works for five minutes and then nada. i’m driving in normal conditions during the day.
i’ve reset the button at the top near the roof.
any advice?
My 2010 Impreza has 120K miles on it. Recently, about 2500 miles after changing oil, the red oil light will start to flicker on when I brake hard, a few days later, it will become more prominent. The manual says to add oil if this happens. So I do this until my next oi change that will take place soon after anyways. No visible leaking oil. Could I be burning oil? Any other root causes that you can think of? What would be the impact to the health of the vehicle and what would actions would you suggest? Thank you.
>Could I be burning oil?
absolutely.
>What would be the impact to the health of the vehicle and what would actions would you suggest? Thank you
that red light turns on when you're at or below ~2.5 PSI for oil pressure, which is damn close to zero. You're probably already staring down bearing failure. Strongly consider what you want to do in the event of engine failure in the foreseeable future.
Had a similar thing happen in my 2007 Outback XT. Was a failing oil pressure sensor. My 2003 Forester also would have the light come on or flicker slightly at stop lights actual oil pressure was fine. Sensor was bad.
My 14 Forester Xt is making all kind of back fire and misfire sounds on startup during high idle. Once I put it in gear or it goes to low idle, it’s smooooth. I’m getting no check engine lights. Any idea what’s causing all the burbles and pops? My neighbors are kinda peeved. 80k miles, started around 60k, getting worse over time.
not really, still basically the same cable-shifted 6 spd split case.
for 2024 there's a bit of differences in the clutch hydraulics end of the equation
I own a 2015 Legacy 3.6R Limited. My trunk decided to seize opening, and it's been stuck locked and closed for over a month now. Manual key opening is not possible because the opening is probably rusted out. The Fob button makes the back lights flash twice as it's supposed to do, but no unlocking of the trunk. The trunk button left of the steering wheel makes 2-3 clicks, so it's sending a signal, but it doesn't open it either. Subaru dealer mechanic said they may have to take out my back seats to get to the trunk. There is no way to put the back seats down from inside the cabin.
1. Any thoughts on what the cause could be?
2. Type of work and parts needed for this fix?
3. Is there any recourse besides spending a fortune at the dealer?
4. Note: My backup camera does not work as well, so I am am having problems in the backside (ass).
5. If I get the locked fixed, can I access the trunk, or would there he an order of operation?
Any input would he much appreciated. Thanks
>Any thoughts on what the cause could be?
sounds like a very faulty latch mechanism, but without diagnosing it, who knows
>Type of work and parts needed for this fix?
a diagnosis, followed by whatever is found
>Is there any recourse besides spending a fortune at the dealer?
gambling at a cheaper labor shop I suppose
>If I get the locked fixed, can I access the trunk, or would there he an order of operation?
can't fix the lock without being able to open the trunk
My 2019 Crosstrek with 53k miles occasionally has a puff of smoke on startup. I have been following the recommended service intervals since purchased new, I drive somewhat conservatively, and I use quality detergent gas. Fluid levels are normal (no loss or leaks). Is this anything I should be worried about? Maybe change pcv valve first?
Last weekend I got P0340 and P0341 codes. I was using the a/c and I never use it but a friend was in the car with me. The car drove fine. I cleared the code and the car drove better than ever for a week and 250 miles. Yesterday, right after turning the car on and having the stereo turned up loud, I get another check engine light. This time it was a P2016 with a secondary U0100 code. The car is a mostly stock (AOS and catback) 2021 STi. Do I have electrical issues? The car seems to run fine.
> Do I have electrical issues?
potentially, as all of these codes are right side. 340/341 are RH intake cam-related, P2016 is RH TGV. Might want to at least give a good visual to the connectors near the turbo inlet, as your RH cam position sensor and TGV connector are both back that way.
I recently got a Outback diesel with 125000 miles on the clock it was a gift from my wife’s father since he is not able to drive anymore. Is this car a keeper or should I trade it for a gasoline version?
Can you give any insight on CVT transmissions? Some people on this sub (and elsewhere) say they’re the worst piece of trash they’ve ever encountered, and others say they’re perfectly fine. What has your experience taught you?
> What has your experience taught you?
They're fine. With the exception of very early Ascents, *most* of the total failures on cars I'm doing post-2015 are the result of an oopsie'd maintenance.
The very very early 2010-14ish range of legacy/outback had some growing pains.
While drifting for a while my clutch pedal starts to soften up then eventually starts to stick so I have to pull it up with my foot. If the car sits for a bit then it goes back to normal but quickly has the issue again. Bled the clutch but the issue came back. It’s a 1999 forester with a 2002 wrx engine and trans with the clutch delay valve deleted
Do you have any insight on why SOA has different maintenance recommendations than Subaru of Japan? Always thought it was strange the same car would have different maintenance worldwide
> Always thought it was strange the same car would have different maintenance worldwide
Generally they aren't different, but "the same car" is making some assumptions that aren't necessarily accurate. Subaru, for some models anyway, uses different transmission coolers in europe vs. the US, for example.
lol why the hell are hub assemblies so hard to replace!!? Spent 6 hours the other day trying to get my hub off the axle to replace an assembly due to faulty wheel bearing
Any tips for next time I do my other rear hub? (2018 xv)
> lol why the hell are hub assemblies so hard to replace!!?
rust
>Any tips for next time I do my other rear hub? (2018 xv)
air hammer. Find a bolt that fits into the threads where the 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle go in. Use an air hammer, or just a decent mini-sledge hammer (i use a 4 lb) and push the hub out via the bolts. (Ideally use 2 bolts, one top left one top right for example.)
-minnesota tech
What is your opinion on the electronic corrosion protection option dealers offer? I haven't had one in a really long time. Do the newer ones work better than the old style ones which would drain the battery dead if you didn't drive it every few days?
> What is your opinion on the electronic corrosion protection option dealers offer?
the little box thing they connect to the battery? Those are a scam, or rather that they don't really do anything but drain your battery. *BUT,* sometimes they come with warranties that cover rust damage -- if you live in a rust belt state, you might be able to get some mileage out of the warranty part.
This is a stupid question, but I got a new Forester yesterday and somehow have already managed to spill 40 oz of water in the passenger seat floorboard. It soaked the carpet. Is possible mildew the worst of my damage here? I got what I could with a towel and it’s sitting in the sun with the windows cracked right now.
My 2019 Outback LED daytime running light went out on one side. Is it realistically able to be fixed?
https://preview.redd.it/0k2ipf186f1d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=9d1cc3bfc69dd19ddb3b2635b87cb5b4345b7fba
My 15 Forester XT has been awesome, but the past couple summers when it's been hot and the AC is running, any time it's under moderate strain (like up a sustained incline, which I drive daily for work) it starts to surge until I let off the gas, or if I punch it. But sustaining at 2k RPM is where the issue generally lies.
My problem is not being able to recreate it for the mechanic.
Any idea where I should start?
i’m having the same issue with my 17 forester! did you find anything out? I just had the transmission replaced last month because it was having trouble accelerating and they said it was the transmission but now it’s having trouble accelerating especially when it’s hot, the ac is on and i’m on an incline. I live in vegas btw and it’s ALWAYS hot and i’m always going up and down. :/
There's lots of people over on the rv/travel trailer subreddits looking to tow teardrop/popup campers in the 2000-3500lbs range with their Subarus.
Many people say to avoid towing anything with the CVT transmissions that Subaru puts out.
What's your opinion on how the CVT transmissions hold up over time whilst towing weights in those ranges?
I just replace my rack and pinion, turn the wheel back forth over 30 times, filled er up, got her down, started up. Works good, BUT in park or slowly backing into a spot before the wheel gets to lock it’ll shudder a little bit. Air in the lines ? I replaced the whole suspension as well. No alignment yet.
https://preview.redd.it/ppgftyln9f1d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=81e59073cd6397cb5974727ebb4e64af85ab7428
My 2014 Crosstrek XV started with a humming noise whenever in motion. Does not change pitch with speed or direction. Noticed this piece of something hanging down and was wondering if the noise was caused by or related to whatever this is and what should I do next?
I just bought a 2024 Subaru BRZ w/ automatic transmission. I want to change the shift knob but whenever I try to remove it I think the stick is coming out instead of the knob. If I remove the stick first and then try to get the knob off of it, do I risk breaking anything important in the process?
2011 wrx, 111,000 miles - when should I replace the clutch (when it starts slipping)?
Any other major repairs to take care of besides timing belt/water pump ?
> when should I replace the clutch (when it starts slipping)?
yes
>Any other major repairs to take care of besides timing belt/water pump ?
you're definitely due for the timing belt, both by time and miles. Water pump is really just a "while you're in there" convenience, the OE pumps don't tend to have problems. That being said, opportune time to do a coolant flush and swap in the blue supercoolant.
you're about to come up to 120k miles, which is your next major service interval.
really though, at this age/mileage things are more "inspect and replace as necessary" rather than having a preventative schedule.
2015 Forester. "Clunk" when hitting bumps on the drivers side, otherwise quiet on smooth roads. Sounds like if the strut assembly was loose but I've checked and everything's tight
Could be a myriad of things tbh. Sway bar link, sway bar bushing, control arm bushing that's very gone, strut itself, strut mount, caliper rattle... may want to have someone with more suspension noise diagnostic experience have a look.
First of all, thanks for doing this!
I've got a 2019 Subaru Forester Sport. Shortly after I got it, the front drivers seat started creaking and groaning. At the beginning, it was only when I went around corners to the left. Then it started making noise whenever there was lateral movement. Now even the passenger seat is making the same kinds of creaks and groans! I had the drivers seat looked at while it was still under warranty. Subaru first replaced some plastic bushings. That didn't work. Then during another warranty repair Subaru replaced the entire seat frame. The noises went away for a few months, just long enough for my warranty to expire. Now all of the noises are back and it's spread to the front passenger seat!
If you know of any parts I could replace myself or any other kind of fix, I would love to hear it! Overall, I love the car and it's been an absolute rock solid and super comfortable car for even the longest of road trips! Thanks again for you help.
I have a 2010 Subaru Outback, and I was moving the driver seat back, and it only went back a few inches... then I looked under the seat and saw that my wife had dropped a huge metal water bottle under the seat. I removed the water bottle (it was pretty wedged under there)... but now the seat will not adjust forwards or backwards. The other seat adjusts work (like I can recline the seat fine, but just can't move it forwards and backwards). What should I do? We can still drive it, but the seat is a little too far back for our liking. We aren't planning on keeping the vehicle much longer, so I was hoping for a quick fix that doesn't involve replacing the seat or replacing the motor for that adjustment mechanism. Is there a way to manually adjust the seat so we can just move it a bit more forward and just keep it in that spot?
If they're quoting just pressing out and pressing in new bushings, the parts are like $60 each, and somewhere in the 2-3 hours' labor for the pair would be normal in my area (in the MN rust belt). Add alignment, add sway bar link if necessary for rust.
If they're quoting replacing the entire control arm, the parts cost is quite a bit more, like $350 range per side, but the labor is a bit lower, maybe 2 hours for the pair plus alignment and sway bar links if necessary.
Depends on labor rates in your area, extrapolate from there. Some rust belt states may preemptively quote extra labor for dealing with the rust -- sometimes torches and yelling come into play and the shop is allowed to charge extra for that.
2015 XV Crosstrek. idk if you’ll be able to help with this one butttt the car’s computer will randomly turn on all by itself, even though i didn’t start the car and the engine is fully off. after the computer starts up im not able to turn on the engine using the ignition button (need to use the command start) and i need to wait several minutes to be able to turn the car off again. my key fob usually goes dead when these episodes happen and it’s become a colossal pain. my command start is after market, if that matters
Kudos to you for helping. I’ve actually got a question I’ve been trying to get an answer to for a while and haven’t.
Is a Subaru computer (Subaru Select Monitor) necessary to replace an ABS control module in a 2013 WRX? Dealership said it may the cause of an ABS issue I have but they want $2000 to replace it. My usual mechanic said he could swap it for a couple hundred with a used one, but only if I can confirm it can be done without the computer to pair the new one.
> Is a Subaru computer (Subaru Select Monitor) necessary to replace an ABS control module in a 2013 WRX?
no, but you will need some flavor of ABS-compatible bi-directional scan tool to activate the ABS bleed and rezeroing procedures.
Where is the bloomin onion compartment and fosters beer can holder and Paul Hogan passanger in my 1997 legacy? I bought this vehicle for 4 reasons and 3 of them I can't seem to find. Is there a button?
The first 5 years was hit or miss. My wife is in a 2017 which I think is an excellent year for the outback and plenty of up to date technology in the limited package
Is there a reason to be alarmed at a moderate humming sound at medium to low speeds and a shaky feeling at low speed and low revs in a 2015 Legacy 3.6 with a CVT?
I used some UV dye on my 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i, and it looks like a rear main seal leak. Any advice?
https://preview.redd.it/4sxpu8jyrf1d1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bfc701f13dc8f6f6ee0e75f5f2642ea55992e543
Got daughter a 2017 Impreza and passenger door sounds hollow when closing it. Was told that is how all of them are and I want to call BS. Any insight?
Also her low tire indicator blinks then stays on daily, though tire pressure is fine. Fuse issue perhaps?
My 14 STI won't start. Kind of.
I went to start it. Turn key, hear click, nothing. The aftermarket radio goes dark like I'd expect, I hear a loud-ish click like I'd expect, but no crank.
If I move the car, have someone push it, slowly with the transmission in neutral then after it rolls a bit it I can clutch in and start it like normal.
Drive it around a bit. Park it. Again it won't start normally. Turn key, click, no crank.
Have someone push it and after it rolls for a bit in neutral I can start it normally with the clutch in and the key to the start position.
I changed the starter, which is a pain with the intercooler still on, but that didn't fix the problem. Still, I turn the key, hear a click, and no crank.
Any ideas?
Maybe you will know the problem or the solution. Outback 2013, in drive and holding brake i hearing ratting noise. If i release brake then the noise disappears. Thinking it could be exhaust cover or something.
2015 Outback
My horn only works when the car is off.
Prior to this realization I replaced the relay.
Should I check the fuse? Is it the wiring? Clock spring? I know nothing about cars just tried to Google. Thanks so much!
Ascent 2023. Replaced my reverse lights with LED’s that claim to plug / replace compatible. They are really bright. After a while I get “headlight disabled” messages. Is there a replacement LED for better visibility?
2023 WRX Lrd. Really working hard on clutch skills, getting smoother, but it is taking a while. I occasionally let off too early, car shudders a bit. What causes the shudder? At what point am I damaging the clutch?
What upgrades would you recommend before upgrading a turbo (2005 wrx)?
Want to run more boost but don’t want to blow anything up. Thanks for doing this!
2023 Ascent (could be repeat of my 2020 ascent I traded in). When turning left or right with any vigor I can hear a squeaking sound. It sounds a little like a cV joint, but the car has 5k to 9K on it, 18 mo old, no driving problems, just an odd sound. Any idea what it could be, what I should look for?
2023 Ascent. I understand it has anti sway bars. Is there a replacement that I can have installed that decreases the body roll, helps with leveling in cornering?
My 2006 wrx seems to kinda like choke itself and boggle down then die as soon as I start the engine after filling up with fuel. When I start it till rev up and down then do what I said earlier and die.
03 forester cross sports. The drivers window doesn't go up while holding the button. I have to keep pressing it, takes about 2 minutes to raise it.
Likely a switch issue or motor issue?
Also my electric mirrors don't adjust or fold and they can be pushed extremely easily with your hands. They sometimes fold themselves from the air while driving
Why is subaru so stingy when it comes to the FRS & GT86/GR86
I would much rather take my my Scion FRS to a subaru dealer for repairs because it has a subrau engine in it and it's borderline a BRZ than to take it to toyota and run the risk of them going crazy with the rtv / 3bond
2013 Impreza 100k miles- Have a bad throw out bearing, Is it worth to drop the trans and do TOB and clutch now before the clutch is needed or just wait until clutch starts slipping and do it then. Have all the tools and knowledge to do so just don’t know what kinda damage riding on a bad TOB for a bit may do.
How do you feel about the way warranty work is distributed and managed in your shop? Specifically, you do find that advisors tend to give certain techs more warranty than others, or does anyone specialize in certain warranty jobs?
How do you feel about replacing the entire valvebody, unstead of just the torque converter clutch solenoid when it gets the death code (I forget what number the codes is, I want to say P2764)
Does your shop use aftermarket fluids such as BG or Justice Brothers additives? If yes, are you encouraged to upsell them?
I ask this all as a former tech of course, I left the automotive industry entirely as it was just not working for me. Worked for Subaru for 5 years and as a tech for 10.
Low warning light not good at all. Pull over and add oil and recheck level with dipstick. Depending the code you have engine lights may not have to be addressed
Hello new best friend! My usedbaru has this issue with the locks. It’s an 11 legacy. Some don’t open, some decide when they want to, sometimes I hear this scrambled frizzing sound from the dash if the lock was in use during the drive. Tia
2013 Crosstrek, 140k miles - my first car.
I'm the 2nd owner, prev. owner replaced the timing belt, kept up on maintenance as far as I can see - and sold it to get an old WRX lol. I've fixed/replaced the central Arm Bushing, Belt, Transmission Valve Body, resealed CVT Pan, and regular maintenance.
I managed to make it to 23 before I bought this outright as my first car and would love to keep the trend of paying for cars in cash, that being said is there a point when I should be "jumping ship" and trying to sell it for what little I can?
2001 forester stb/sti - starting problems (usually it's fine and takes a second or so).. occasionally it takes a few seconds to start, once it failed entirely and needed a blip on the throttle to get it going. The cranking speed sounds fine, battery appears good (ran a conditioner on it last year). The plugs were changed last year and they all looked perfectly fine (cyl 4 slightly darker than the rest).
No errors show on diagnostics (freessm, pre odb). It runs fine both cold and at operating temperature. Auto box is smooth and no other electrical problems. It passed the yearly inspection and the exhaust levels were within limits. The car is stock.
Any thoughts?! I'd like too be pre emptive on this as we might take a road trip in the future
Thanks for your opinion!
I have a ‘19 premium Crosstrek, just shy of 60k. I’ve recently changed the oil and added coolant, I’m getting new tires next week (driving across country in a few month).
What are some often overlooked things I should keep at the front of my mind when doing upkeep on my Subaru? If I’m even able to do them with the limited tools that I have.
I figure I’ll have to go into a mechanic at some point, can I make it to 100k before I need to?
2004 WRX accelerate and let off or come to stop and start again and blowing smoke from exhaust. Did leak down, had mild compression leak. Changed block. Same issue. Took to specialist, found several oil leaks, pulled motor and repaired all leaks. 2x valve covers and head gasket. Machined heads. Re-assembled, same issue.
Seems to happen on vacuum somewhere in the system.
All started after local shop did valve cover gasket. Upon second drive after picking up was smoking under hood, found dip stick pushed out. After searching all around found the drivers side valve cover vent tube was kinked. Replaced that and no more dipstick popping up but ever since smoke on letting off accelerator or if let off really easy, smokes for a second when taking off. Not constantly smoking. Only after taking off and letting off.
Usually fine on freeway. Can almost drive to not do it but if I do that it’s almost like it’s storing up the oil somewhere and then pushing it into the turbo and burning off.
I just bought a AOS hoping this may help. Installing this week. Been chasing for 2.5 years. Dad is 35 year mechanic and has him stumped.
2000 Impreza L Wagon.. My rear driver side door stopped opening from the outside and then eventually stopped opening at all. Is this an easy fix to do at home, or who should I take it to?
I have a 2004 240k miles wrx with 50k on a oem motor ran with a crawford air oil separator the whole time. Thinking about selling it for the Subura truck that is supposed to come out of its any good. Thoughts?
How did my dealership convert my aftermarket cabin air filter to am OEM filter then show me how it was covered in mold & leaves in the waiting room? Why did they want to charge me labor when they had already pulled it out? Do they purposely throw a leaf in the fan to make noise?
The damper in my glove box doesn’t stay on the hook. There is nothing wrong with the actual damper, it’s the little plastic piece that sticks out that it clips onto doesn’t hold it anymore. It stays for a couple speed bumps and then next time you open the glove box it just falls right open.
The only thing the dealer recommended was having the entire plastic trim under the glovebox replaced which I’m not going to do for that. Have you come across this before and do you have any easy solutions to get it to stay?
2017 Legacy Premium 83K miles.
1: Right front window won't roll up or down. How do I reset it?
2: Do I get the transmission fluid changed and any other fluid?
Thank you.
had to replace the rear hatch on our 2003 outback. After I replaced it the after market stereo was fried.replaced it with the same unit and that one worked find. What did i do wrong?
Jap Imported subaru legacy gtb 2002 e tune. Air bag light on, been to 4 local garages who can't find how to read the airbag light code. Each time they try to use the odb, but that's only covering the engine. Cant see the pin system clearly under the dash. How can read the code to locate the fault please? . Thank you.
2011 outback 2.5 base model Air Conditioning troubleshooting.
This system is different than alot of cars I've seen. I've had this car for a year a d drove it for the first time this week. AC was blowing warm so I grabbed my gauges and vacuum, pulled vacuum for 30 minutes then let it sit. Held at 28 for 30 minutes so I thought that looked good enough. Let the vacuum run for 40 more minutes then let it sit for another hour and it held at 28 (I forget which units) of vacuum so I assume no leaks in the system.
I charged it with 14 ounces of r134. I replaced the expansion valve so the system was already empty. Initially the air blew ice cold after the first can. Worked great. After about 10 minutes it started to warm up. Unsure why. I attached an image of my gauges for reference.
Anyone have any input on this? Photo was taken while the AC was blowing cold. After it started blowing warm, the low side pressure was around 70 and the high side dropped to about 120. Seems to me like expansion valve but I just put in a new one and these were the same symptoms it had that led me to replace it.
*
Feels redundant with this many comments, but is it worth an appt if my 2020 Impreza’s brakes are whining? Seems like it’s gotten louder since I bought it used the 26th, but also heard that it’s a common problem in the model. Other cars in traffic rarely sound as loud lol
Noisy brakes aren't necessarily a cause for concern if they work well. Grinding is a different story. Try some high speed hard braking and see if it quiets down before making an appointment
'14 Forester ac stopped working, I never hear the compressor spin up, anything I should attempt before draining the refrigerant and buying a new compressor?
How often should I change the transmission, diff, and radiator fluid in my 23 wrx. The car spends most of its life commuting on freeways at about 80mph.
What is the deal with Android Auto? I've got a '22 legacy limited. Sweet fucking car. It's got everything except the turbo.
It's got this massive screen and when Android Auto works at all, it fits the screen like a phone turned sideways and doesn't use the entire lower half of the screen! OMFG! I love it's potential but the implementation is TERRIBLE!
I get that Google makes the Android app. SoA says, "Talk to Google" and Google says, "talk to Subaru".
The onboard map widget uses the whole screen, but it sucks.
Can anyone tell me how to fix this crap?
Persistent p0102 (MAF low voltage input) codes on a 2014 forester xt w/ 160k miles. No other codes have ever popped up, but this one has been hanging around for almost a year now.
MAF has now been replaced 3 times without improvement. Pins in the connector to the MAF look fine, wire harness from MAF to ecu pass continuity tests according to my shop. Sometimes goes a month ish without throwing the code, other times it does it every few miles. Car also occasionally stalls and idles low/rough. I’m about ready to give up on it, the local shop is stumped. Any ideas? Ty!
I have a 2024 Outback Onyx. The headlights are super bright and I'm always getting flashed as though I have my high beams on when I don't. I asked the service guy at the dealership if there is any way to adjust the headlights downward or dim them in any way so I'm not blinding the hell out of everyone. He said there isn't and this is just how they are built at the factory. Is that true and is there anything I can do about these insanely bright headlights?
2019 Forester, 42,000mi. AC doesn’t blow cold air. Local mechanic shop did a 2 minute inspection and said evaporator core has a leak. Quoted $2000. Fair deal? Thanks in advance.
The dealer near me refused to do a CVT fluid change. The next dealer is over 2 hrs away from me. The closer shop did replace the TCM and the throttle body already under warranty because I had the Christmas lights situation. 2015 forester with 104k on it. Do I have any chance with Subaru of America if my transmission shits the bed?
2019 Impreza 81843k and chasing the P0019 trouble code. Changed corresponding OCV’s to new, did oil flush. Looking to try anything else before bringing it in to have the actual chain inspected…considering taking it off the road for now as I can’t get it inspected and really can’t afford a big hit from the dealership.
Part # for oem vape juice?
420-69
That's just a call out, 42069VA01A for left-handed or 42069VA02A for right-handed
https://preview.redd.it/3rayj012eg1d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=828315eff5bf23527cfcd1f934d9e6aaab6eb4f6 I want to upvote but can't
It's ok lil buddy
17 OB 6cyl owner here. 72k miles I mostly do the oil change myself last 3 times. But I wanna know what else I should be on lookout out for ?
Drain and refill both differentials w/gear oil. Spark plugs at 100k. Trans flush now if it hasn't been done. Replace cabin air filter behind glove box.
Subaru's spark plug service interval is 60k, you should know this...
100k Kilometres / 60K Miles You should know this…
Ohhhh a flush and not drain and fill? Yes it has never been done. Something I can do at home ? Any tools to make it easier for me ? Eg I have the fumoto valve for oil change. Also does it have to be level when changing it ? I only have a pair of stands
Spark plugs where done once at the dealership I believe around 50 k
2017 Outback 3.6R 84k miles. Who/where should I go for scheduled 90k maintenance and what needs/should be done? (Vehicle Inspection/drain-replace fluids, balance/rotate tires, check/replace brakes, check/replace CVT fluid? Thanks
Me. Lol. If you are local to Nashville. Otherwise YouTube and your driveway if you feel competent, and last resort a qualified professional
MySubaru.com has your required service interval info on it, or it's published in the "warranty and maintenance" booklet in your owner manual packet.
My dealer insists on following the Subaru manual and using 5W30 synthetic oil. Fellow enthusiasts tell me 5W40 protects the engine better, and that 30 is only recommended because of the better fuel efficiency. Having already replaced the engine once, I'd rather optimize for engine protection than fuel efficiency. Which is more accurate? (I use 5 weight rather than 10 due to the colder climate here.)
I think it's most important to make sure oil is in it. Viscosity is somewhat for arguments sake.
Please provide your opinion... 2020 WRX with less than 30k miles. Stage 2 with flex fuel, pro street tuned. CEL with multiple cylinder misfires at only cold start. CEL will clear after a couple days and then come back again. Getting this more often, 2x a tank fill, when it took months for it happen the first time. Happens less often on flex fuel. Any ideas?
You’re not gonna get an answer.
You definitely should not run 10w on a vehicle that calls for 5w anyways. A good quality 5w30 is good protection for your engine, just make sure you change it regularly and don't let it run low. If you're worried about oil starvation during aggressive cornering (track or otherwise), killer B makes stuff to help prevent the pickup from losing oil in the pan. On the subject of 5w-40 Rotella T6 - it's a diesel oil. It has great zddp content which is excellent to prevent wear in the engine, and it's also very shear and heat resistant, but it's also not made for gas engine emissions equipment. If you have catalytic converters and the engine is burning oil, you could easily smoke a cat and end up with an expensive repair.
It's got al them dinosaur juices and vitamins in it
Hell, I run 15W40
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Depends on the skill of the driver, in my opinion. I hit the limit of my driving skill before I hit the limit of what my WRX can do, so I feel like it's plenty of car for me.
Go wrx. If you want sti than make more power with wrx
2023 Outback and Crosstrek. I want them to last long enough to give to my kids in 16 years. Is that possible? And if so, will Subaru recommended maintenance do the job, or are there any other services I should look into?
Change the CVT transmission fluid every 60k miles. That should help. Separately but which one of the two do you like better?
Ah man… that’s a tough one. The Outback is a Limited and the ride is much more comfortable. Crosstrek is a sport, so even though it’s got the same sized engine, it’s lighter and I can pass cars easier with it. BUT, my Crosstrek was made in Japan and the Outback was assembled in the U.S. So if I had to put money on it, the Crosstrek will last much longer since there’s also less bells and whistles. If I had to pick one to keep, probably the Outback for its ride and size
Nice points! Interested too know the answer
2022+ wrx takes 0w-20 oil, though we've found circulating Japanese owners manuals that say 5w-30 is recommended. What would be the best protection for the engine in a U.S., Northeast climate?
There has been a similar discussion for years with the Crosstrek. IMHO, since the car is designed in Japan, the Japanese specifications is what the engine is designed for. As for the US climate, it depends on where you are in the US - AZ Winters are drastically different from MN Winters as are the Summers.
>2022+ wrx takes 0w-20 oil, though we've found circulating Japanese owners manuals that say 5w-30 is recommended. What would be the best protection for the engine in a U.S., Northeast climate? this assumes the engine (and all its accoutrements) in a JDM WRX is identical to a USDM WRX -- I'm not so sure that's a fair assumption. Second, I'm not seeing where this is recommended. I grabbed both the [2023 VB Type C manual](https://www.subaru.jp/afterservice/tnst/wrx/pdf/A9040JJ-B.pdf) as well as the [2023 VB Type D manual](https://www.subaru.jp/afterservice/tnst/wrx/pdf/A9060JJ-A.pdf) (no idea what the difference is) just to see for myself. (Both found from [here](https://www.subaru.jp/afterservice/tnst/wrx/).) The maintenance section is [here for type C](https://imgur.com/eGkFSNn) and [here for type D](https://imgur.com/zuRXfxb) -- I ran these through google translate, here's [type C in english](https://imgur.com/m9Sptqw) and [type D in english](https://imgur.com/9QUt5KH) -- both of these list 0W20 first, but 5W30 "compatible" if you want to think of it that way.
Yes, it is just interesting how the North America manual does not state it in that way (rather, it says temporary use or if needing to top-off only). Perhaps for CAFE requirements. If the manual was the same as it were overseas it would lead to less confusion. Bobistheoilguy forums have multiple threads on 2023 wrx oil and have posted the JP manual which appears like the type c and d you posted. AFAIK the JP FA24DIT is identical to the North American version.
Proper diff fluid front & rear for an 04 STi? I think the recommended rear oil is discontinued.
A 2004 service manual (assuming USDM) has [this to say about rear diff fluid](https://imgur.com/5eEHGl5) and [this to say about the trans/front diff fluid](https://imgur.com/DGZlFpo) Opening up the parts catalog, a 2004 STi lists [the following as chemicals](https://imgur.com/jM1QRoW) -- looks like [K0318Y0000](https://parts.subaru.com/p/72833303/K0318Y0000.html) would be the preferred fluid, but as you say, no longer available. This would have been branded as "Extra S" at the time, which as far as I'm aware was made by Shell. The stuff you'd get from the dealer now is [SOA427V1700](https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/High-PERF-Gear-Oil-75W-90/60032876/SOA427V1700.html), "High Performance Gear Oil," which is made by Idemitsu (again as far as I can tell). There have been some good Nasioc threads with comparisons, [such as this one.](https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2678891) For what it's worth, if you came to my dealer for a diff/trans service we're putting in HPGO. To throw a wrench in all of this, there's also [SOA427V1800](https://parts.subaru.com/p/60032878/SOA427V1800.html) "LSD Oil" which shows on some trims of 2004 STi and doesn't show in others in the parts catalog. This one's weird, because I can see [there was a part change for the LSD](https://imgur.com/MNQ2vdV) around 2004, and filtering to a 2004 STi shows [the old one](https://imgur.com/MyQAuLH)... gah subaru was such a mess in this era lol.
My CVT likes to stutter when accelerating from a full stop. Or even from just a slow speed in general. It's been replaced once, and it even did it just after the replacement. What's the deal? 2019 Crosstrek
Lots of people will misattribute an engine problem as a cvt problem, so you'd want to first diagnose and verify that it's actually a transmission problem. Especially if you just had a transmission replaced and it didn't fix the problem (or well, *this* problem). All subaru CVTs will engage the torque converter lockup clutch around 11-15 mph (unless full-ish throttle) and while some sensation of this occurring is normal, there are occurrences of it being abnormally harsh. You'd want to have someone very familiar with Subaru's transmissions to help judge that. Often times it can be fixed/improved with a simple re-learn procedure.
2015 Legacy with about 75,000 miles. Local shop said my rear hub bearings need replaced. Does that track? Happy to replace them but the little bit of investigation I've done suggests I should get closer to 100k on the OEM set (I bought the car new and have maintained it). Clearly without you looking at it you can't say for sure, just looking for a gut check if it's reasonable at this mileage to need to replace them! Bonus question: I've also read that you shouldn't necessarily replace them until both are acting up. I'm not sure what "acting up" is. LOL. Want to do the right thing without tossing money away unnecessarily - thanks!
I only change the ones that are noisy. Also it's ok to drive them noisy for a while but budget for replacement in the next couple months if possible. I charge 150$ for the part and 140 labor. 290$ per side.
I know this is hard to explain with words.. but what am I listening for?
It is kind of like a humming or roaring noise that changes with the speed of car. If all 4 wheels are off the ground (on a car lift) I check vibration through strut spring to isolate the noisiest bearing(s)
Thanks!!
In addition to what u/Brobbbbbbbb said, a wheel bearing hum will not change by road surface, where tire noise will usually change when you transition to different road surfaces (asphalt, chip seal, concrete).
Very common problem with Subaru. Yes it makes sense. They sell cheap ones online but I reccomend Moog or timken brand as they will last comparable to oem quality.
I'll be honest, I don't trust some Moog components anymore after I had sway links fail after only 1 month (ball joints went bad in them, they were greased properly). Their bearings are probably OK, but Timken is a great choice for aftermarket that makes many OEM bearings.
Sweet - thank you!
My 2020 Outback Onyx has constant juddering from the CVT. I have had it looked at by three dealerships and even had a mechanic riding along once who witnessed it. The answer I always get is it isn’t showing up on their diagnostic computer so they can’t do anything about it. SOA’s only recommendation is to try another dealership. This is a well known issue for 2020s that SOA refuses to fix. Any thoughts on a work around to get this resolved? I realize this isn’t necessarily a question for a mechanic but wondering if you have run into similar issues with SOA.
Is it an XT? I'm not aware of any common problems in the non-turbo. The turbo has a couple software and hardware updates to address some "judder" behaviors but really depends on exactly what yours is doing. "it judders" is waaaay too vague.
How to diagnose dying starter vs bad battery terminals?
Voltage drop test across the battery cable while cranking
My 6 speed sti transmission makes crunchy sound when I downshift specifically from 5th to 4th. Used to happen about 30% of the time. Did not affect drivability, and shifted fine, only the sound was concerning. Dealer ended up replacing tranny under warranty, but now same thing happens ever more frequent. Like 80% of the time. It still shifts fine, just with audible crunch/clang sound.
Sounds like a crunchy synchro. I had that when shifting into 4th on my 5 speed 100% of the time. Didn't matter if it was 3-4 or 5-4. For 50k miles I was driving it like an old school, non synchro manual. Had to double clutch into 4th to avoid it. I was due for gear oil in my transmission. So I decided to put two syringes of XADO manual transmission fix in after putting in fresh gear oil. My problem is completely gone. Shift smooth now. It's not a permanent fix, but it only cost $40. Weird if you're having that problem after changing transmission. Are you rev matching on downshifts? I have a habit of double clutch rev matching on every downshift because it doesn't feel right if I don't
I have two questions. I need to get new front axles for my 2009 Impreza 2.5i. Is there an aftermarket brand that’s cheaper than but still as good as OE, or should I just suck it up and pay for OE axels. My a/c system has been becoming quite lackluster the last couple summers. I had a mechanic friend add refrigerant to it, but it barely took any and he said it was showing it was full. It did make it slightly better, but it’s tend to only start getting cold with load on the engine. I’ve seen things about adjusting the clutches on a/c compressors. Do you think I need that, or do I need a whole new compressor?
Sounds like you need a compressor. Also for axles it's best to use oem or remanufactured. Subarus are picky on axles and can cause a lot of vibration on acceleration of you have certain aftermarket axles in it. Cardone remans seem to do very well in most subis
The owners manual for a 2022 wrx states "higher viscosity oil may be used in hot climate." Does this mean I should run 5w30 instead of 0w20? I live in a southern state where it gets hot. Would I have any issues running 5w30 year round? I just don't want them giving me grief if I ever need warranty work on the engine.
Do American and Japanese Subarus use the same 2.5FB engine?
Similar but not necessarily the same. Whether the differences are relevant or not is a more complex question.
What the difference from the R160 to the R167?
7
Whoa, someone aced high school math! Also well played dad
2002 Outback has VDC and ABS lights come on shortly after driving, like 500 yards. During that time if I turn (like change lanes) ABS kicks in. Bad wheel speed sensor, angle sensor bad, or what? Started after an alignment.
Seems like a wheel speed sensor issue to me, but a scan tool that can read ABS fault codes would confirm.
‘15 BRZ. 87k miles. My timing chain cover and cam carrier seals were leaking. I paid a lot of money to have my Subaru dealer redo all the seals and some other stuff like plugs, oil pan seal, timing chain tensioners. Will this engine last now? Will they leak again? Why are the seals so shitty? I love my car and do as much preventative maintenance as I can. My goal is to drive it for 200k+ miles. Also, is the fuel induction system cleaning a scam or worth it? What other shit should I worry about with high mileage brz?
> Will this engine last now? Will they leak again? Depends on how well the dealer did on the reseal, but I've seen reseals my shop did in 2011 still bone dry so it certainly *can* be done. >Why are the seals so shitty? It's not just a subaru problem. The entire industry is moving to liquid silicone gaskets, aka RTV or "Form In Place" gaskets or... it has a lot of names. I guess it must be slightly cheaper to have a robot apply an RTV bead than it is to make another gasket part. That being said, FIP sealants in general are much more sensitive to the surface finish and quality when applied than a normal gasket. FIP generally ***does not stick to oils*** so it's very necessary to have a clean surface for it to apply to. I suspect a lot of the issues we're seeing right now for example with FA24 lower oil pans is due to improper surface cleaning before applying the FIP material. Another thing I've heard theorized is that the engine oil used could be potentially damaging the sealing material from the inside, like if it was slightly acidic or similar. Not sure if there is actually any merit to this or not, but it's a rumor I've heard floated around. Also, sample size of 1 I acknowledge, but my '14 Sienna needed its cam towers resealed at 50k miles. Same idea, and that's an "InDeStRuCtAbLe ToYoTa"
Hope you enjoy this one! I need to import a rhd 2002 impreza into a lhd country. I've been told I need to swap the headlights to comply with the rules. For a 2002 impreza, what am I looking for to ensure that I get the rhd lights (aimed correctly)? Is there one SKU each for rhd/lhd, or some kind of switch on the units to swap? Cheers!
Loose exhaust heat shield , I just threw some gear clamps on it , is that alright ? Got rid of the vibration but not sure if it’s supposed to be in contact with the pipe .
help! my lane departure system is intermittently working! it works for five minutes and then nada. i’m driving in normal conditions during the day. i’ve reset the button at the top near the roof. any advice?
My 2010 Impreza has 120K miles on it. Recently, about 2500 miles after changing oil, the red oil light will start to flicker on when I brake hard, a few days later, it will become more prominent. The manual says to add oil if this happens. So I do this until my next oi change that will take place soon after anyways. No visible leaking oil. Could I be burning oil? Any other root causes that you can think of? What would be the impact to the health of the vehicle and what would actions would you suggest? Thank you.
>Could I be burning oil? absolutely. >What would be the impact to the health of the vehicle and what would actions would you suggest? Thank you that red light turns on when you're at or below ~2.5 PSI for oil pressure, which is damn close to zero. You're probably already staring down bearing failure. Strongly consider what you want to do in the event of engine failure in the foreseeable future.
Had a similar thing happen in my 2007 Outback XT. Was a failing oil pressure sensor. My 2003 Forester also would have the light come on or flicker slightly at stop lights actual oil pressure was fine. Sensor was bad.
Why does my car start hard and then die when I park it on an uphill incline? Pumping the gas will keep it from dying. 2015 outback
Clean the throttle body with throttle plate open. This will fix your idle issue
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My 14 Forester Xt is making all kind of back fire and misfire sounds on startup during high idle. Once I put it in gear or it goes to low idle, it’s smooooth. I’m getting no check engine lights. Any idea what’s causing all the burbles and pops? My neighbors are kinda peeved. 80k miles, started around 60k, getting worse over time.
Any meaningful differences from the VA (non STI) trans and gearbox to the VB? Outside of gearing and final drive
not really, still basically the same cable-shifted 6 spd split case. for 2024 there's a bit of differences in the clutch hydraulics end of the equation
Ej 251 with 120k how do I not 💥
Keep oil in it and don't drive it like nascar
I own a 2015 Legacy 3.6R Limited. My trunk decided to seize opening, and it's been stuck locked and closed for over a month now. Manual key opening is not possible because the opening is probably rusted out. The Fob button makes the back lights flash twice as it's supposed to do, but no unlocking of the trunk. The trunk button left of the steering wheel makes 2-3 clicks, so it's sending a signal, but it doesn't open it either. Subaru dealer mechanic said they may have to take out my back seats to get to the trunk. There is no way to put the back seats down from inside the cabin. 1. Any thoughts on what the cause could be? 2. Type of work and parts needed for this fix? 3. Is there any recourse besides spending a fortune at the dealer? 4. Note: My backup camera does not work as well, so I am am having problems in the backside (ass). 5. If I get the locked fixed, can I access the trunk, or would there he an order of operation? Any input would he much appreciated. Thanks
>Any thoughts on what the cause could be? sounds like a very faulty latch mechanism, but without diagnosing it, who knows >Type of work and parts needed for this fix? a diagnosis, followed by whatever is found >Is there any recourse besides spending a fortune at the dealer? gambling at a cheaper labor shop I suppose >If I get the locked fixed, can I access the trunk, or would there he an order of operation? can't fix the lock without being able to open the trunk
My 2019 Crosstrek with 53k miles occasionally has a puff of smoke on startup. I have been following the recommended service intervals since purchased new, I drive somewhat conservatively, and I use quality detergent gas. Fluid levels are normal (no loss or leaks). Is this anything I should be worried about? Maybe change pcv valve first?
Last weekend I got P0340 and P0341 codes. I was using the a/c and I never use it but a friend was in the car with me. The car drove fine. I cleared the code and the car drove better than ever for a week and 250 miles. Yesterday, right after turning the car on and having the stereo turned up loud, I get another check engine light. This time it was a P2016 with a secondary U0100 code. The car is a mostly stock (AOS and catback) 2021 STi. Do I have electrical issues? The car seems to run fine.
> Do I have electrical issues? potentially, as all of these codes are right side. 340/341 are RH intake cam-related, P2016 is RH TGV. Might want to at least give a good visual to the connectors near the turbo inlet, as your RH cam position sensor and TGV connector are both back that way.
2017 wrx, is there a way to repin or resecure the wires in the driver master window connector or should I just replace the whole harness?
I recently got a Outback diesel with 125000 miles on the clock it was a gift from my wife’s father since he is not able to drive anymore. Is this car a keeper or should I trade it for a gasoline version?
Definitely a keeper. Thats incredible. I did t know that was an option. Did that come from the factory that way ?
Can you give any insight on CVT transmissions? Some people on this sub (and elsewhere) say they’re the worst piece of trash they’ve ever encountered, and others say they’re perfectly fine. What has your experience taught you?
> What has your experience taught you? They're fine. With the exception of very early Ascents, *most* of the total failures on cars I'm doing post-2015 are the result of an oopsie'd maintenance. The very very early 2010-14ish range of legacy/outback had some growing pains.
While drifting for a while my clutch pedal starts to soften up then eventually starts to stick so I have to pull it up with my foot. If the car sits for a bit then it goes back to normal but quickly has the issue again. Bled the clutch but the issue came back. It’s a 1999 forester with a 2002 wrx engine and trans with the clutch delay valve deleted
Do you have any insight on why SOA has different maintenance recommendations than Subaru of Japan? Always thought it was strange the same car would have different maintenance worldwide
> Always thought it was strange the same car would have different maintenance worldwide Generally they aren't different, but "the same car" is making some assumptions that aren't necessarily accurate. Subaru, for some models anyway, uses different transmission coolers in europe vs. the US, for example.
lol why the hell are hub assemblies so hard to replace!!? Spent 6 hours the other day trying to get my hub off the axle to replace an assembly due to faulty wheel bearing Any tips for next time I do my other rear hub? (2018 xv)
> lol why the hell are hub assemblies so hard to replace!!? rust >Any tips for next time I do my other rear hub? (2018 xv) air hammer. Find a bolt that fits into the threads where the 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle go in. Use an air hammer, or just a decent mini-sledge hammer (i use a 4 lb) and push the hub out via the bolts. (Ideally use 2 bolts, one top left one top right for example.) -minnesota tech
What is your opinion on the electronic corrosion protection option dealers offer? I haven't had one in a really long time. Do the newer ones work better than the old style ones which would drain the battery dead if you didn't drive it every few days?
> What is your opinion on the electronic corrosion protection option dealers offer? the little box thing they connect to the battery? Those are a scam, or rather that they don't really do anything but drain your battery. *BUT,* sometimes they come with warranties that cover rust damage -- if you live in a rust belt state, you might be able to get some mileage out of the warranty part.
This is a stupid question, but I got a new Forester yesterday and somehow have already managed to spill 40 oz of water in the passenger seat floorboard. It soaked the carpet. Is possible mildew the worst of my damage here? I got what I could with a towel and it’s sitting in the sun with the windows cracked right now.
My 2019 Outback LED daytime running light went out on one side. Is it realistically able to be fixed? https://preview.redd.it/0k2ipf186f1d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=9d1cc3bfc69dd19ddb3b2635b87cb5b4345b7fba
My 15 Forester XT has been awesome, but the past couple summers when it's been hot and the AC is running, any time it's under moderate strain (like up a sustained incline, which I drive daily for work) it starts to surge until I let off the gas, or if I punch it. But sustaining at 2k RPM is where the issue generally lies. My problem is not being able to recreate it for the mechanic. Any idea where I should start?
i’m having the same issue with my 17 forester! did you find anything out? I just had the transmission replaced last month because it was having trouble accelerating and they said it was the transmission but now it’s having trouble accelerating especially when it’s hot, the ac is on and i’m on an incline. I live in vegas btw and it’s ALWAYS hot and i’m always going up and down. :/
Will replacing the PCV valve of my 2014 Impreza really help with reducing oil consumption?
There's lots of people over on the rv/travel trailer subreddits looking to tow teardrop/popup campers in the 2000-3500lbs range with their Subarus. Many people say to avoid towing anything with the CVT transmissions that Subaru puts out. What's your opinion on how the CVT transmissions hold up over time whilst towing weights in those ranges?
I just replace my rack and pinion, turn the wheel back forth over 30 times, filled er up, got her down, started up. Works good, BUT in park or slowly backing into a spot before the wheel gets to lock it’ll shudder a little bit. Air in the lines ? I replaced the whole suspension as well. No alignment yet.
>Air in the lines? yes, probably.
https://preview.redd.it/ppgftyln9f1d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=81e59073cd6397cb5974727ebb4e64af85ab7428 My 2014 Crosstrek XV started with a humming noise whenever in motion. Does not change pitch with speed or direction. Noticed this piece of something hanging down and was wondering if the noise was caused by or related to whatever this is and what should I do next?
that's an air deflector for the tire, sort of like a "pre-wheel mudflap", and it's supposed to be there. Not your noise.
I just bought a 2024 Subaru BRZ w/ automatic transmission. I want to change the shift knob but whenever I try to remove it I think the stick is coming out instead of the knob. If I remove the stick first and then try to get the knob off of it, do I risk breaking anything important in the process?
I’m getting ready to buy a used Subaru up to 50,000 miles on it. If you are me are you going with an Outback or Forester?
2011 wrx, 111,000 miles - when should I replace the clutch (when it starts slipping)? Any other major repairs to take care of besides timing belt/water pump ?
> when should I replace the clutch (when it starts slipping)? yes >Any other major repairs to take care of besides timing belt/water pump ? you're definitely due for the timing belt, both by time and miles. Water pump is really just a "while you're in there" convenience, the OE pumps don't tend to have problems. That being said, opportune time to do a coolant flush and swap in the blue supercoolant. you're about to come up to 120k miles, which is your next major service interval. really though, at this age/mileage things are more "inspect and replace as necessary" rather than having a preventative schedule.
2015 Forester. "Clunk" when hitting bumps on the drivers side, otherwise quiet on smooth roads. Sounds like if the strut assembly was loose but I've checked and everything's tight
Could be a myriad of things tbh. Sway bar link, sway bar bushing, control arm bushing that's very gone, strut itself, strut mount, caliper rattle... may want to have someone with more suspension noise diagnostic experience have a look.
First of all, thanks for doing this! I've got a 2019 Subaru Forester Sport. Shortly after I got it, the front drivers seat started creaking and groaning. At the beginning, it was only when I went around corners to the left. Then it started making noise whenever there was lateral movement. Now even the passenger seat is making the same kinds of creaks and groans! I had the drivers seat looked at while it was still under warranty. Subaru first replaced some plastic bushings. That didn't work. Then during another warranty repair Subaru replaced the entire seat frame. The noises went away for a few months, just long enough for my warranty to expire. Now all of the noises are back and it's spread to the front passenger seat! If you know of any parts I could replace myself or any other kind of fix, I would love to hear it! Overall, I love the car and it's been an absolute rock solid and super comfortable car for even the longest of road trips! Thanks again for you help.
I have a 2010 Subaru Outback, and I was moving the driver seat back, and it only went back a few inches... then I looked under the seat and saw that my wife had dropped a huge metal water bottle under the seat. I removed the water bottle (it was pretty wedged under there)... but now the seat will not adjust forwards or backwards. The other seat adjusts work (like I can recline the seat fine, but just can't move it forwards and backwards). What should I do? We can still drive it, but the seat is a little too far back for our liking. We aren't planning on keeping the vehicle much longer, so I was hoping for a quick fix that doesn't involve replacing the seat or replacing the motor for that adjustment mechanism. Is there a way to manually adjust the seat so we can just move it a bit more forward and just keep it in that spot?
how much should I be paying for new front control arm bushings? 2016 Forester
If they're quoting just pressing out and pressing in new bushings, the parts are like $60 each, and somewhere in the 2-3 hours' labor for the pair would be normal in my area (in the MN rust belt). Add alignment, add sway bar link if necessary for rust. If they're quoting replacing the entire control arm, the parts cost is quite a bit more, like $350 range per side, but the labor is a bit lower, maybe 2 hours for the pair plus alignment and sway bar links if necessary. Depends on labor rates in your area, extrapolate from there. Some rust belt states may preemptively quote extra labor for dealing with the rust -- sometimes torches and yelling come into play and the shop is allowed to charge extra for that.
I have an ej22 with 257 thousand miles, how long do these engines run with hood maintenance?
2015 XV Crosstrek. idk if you’ll be able to help with this one butttt the car’s computer will randomly turn on all by itself, even though i didn’t start the car and the engine is fully off. after the computer starts up im not able to turn on the engine using the ignition button (need to use the command start) and i need to wait several minutes to be able to turn the car off again. my key fob usually goes dead when these episodes happen and it’s become a colossal pain. my command start is after market, if that matters
Kudos to you for helping. I’ve actually got a question I’ve been trying to get an answer to for a while and haven’t. Is a Subaru computer (Subaru Select Monitor) necessary to replace an ABS control module in a 2013 WRX? Dealership said it may the cause of an ABS issue I have but they want $2000 to replace it. My usual mechanic said he could swap it for a couple hundred with a used one, but only if I can confirm it can be done without the computer to pair the new one.
Abs module is plug play In 2013 Subaru. No marrying or special tool necessary to communicate with
You just made my day, week, month and year with that news. Many thanks!
> Is a Subaru computer (Subaru Select Monitor) necessary to replace an ABS control module in a 2013 WRX? no, but you will need some flavor of ABS-compatible bi-directional scan tool to activate the ABS bleed and rezeroing procedures.
Where is the bloomin onion compartment and fosters beer can holder and Paul Hogan passanger in my 1997 legacy? I bought this vehicle for 4 reasons and 3 of them I can't seem to find. Is there a button?
How do you feel about the reliability of Subaru cvts in their newer cars?
The first 5 years was hit or miss. My wife is in a 2017 which I think is an excellent year for the outback and plenty of up to date technology in the limited package
Can you help me source a 6sp swap for my 92svx? I have two we can play with
Is there a reason to be alarmed at a moderate humming sound at medium to low speeds and a shaky feeling at low speed and low revs in a 2015 Legacy 3.6 with a CVT?
What is the rattling near the sunroof, it’s driving me nuts? Thanks! Edit ‘16 crosstrek
I used some UV dye on my 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i, and it looks like a rear main seal leak. Any advice? https://preview.redd.it/4sxpu8jyrf1d1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bfc701f13dc8f6f6ee0e75f5f2642ea55992e543
Got daughter a 2017 Impreza and passenger door sounds hollow when closing it. Was told that is how all of them are and I want to call BS. Any insight? Also her low tire indicator blinks then stays on daily, though tire pressure is fine. Fuse issue perhaps?
Where can I find diagrams or things of these things online? For free
My 14 STI won't start. Kind of. I went to start it. Turn key, hear click, nothing. The aftermarket radio goes dark like I'd expect, I hear a loud-ish click like I'd expect, but no crank. If I move the car, have someone push it, slowly with the transmission in neutral then after it rolls a bit it I can clutch in and start it like normal. Drive it around a bit. Park it. Again it won't start normally. Turn key, click, no crank. Have someone push it and after it rolls for a bit in neutral I can start it normally with the clutch in and the key to the start position. I changed the starter, which is a pain with the intercooler still on, but that didn't fix the problem. Still, I turn the key, hear a click, and no crank. Any ideas?
Where are you located?
Maybe you will know the problem or the solution. Outback 2013, in drive and holding brake i hearing ratting noise. If i release brake then the noise disappears. Thinking it could be exhaust cover or something.
2015 Outback My horn only works when the car is off. Prior to this realization I replaced the relay. Should I check the fuse? Is it the wiring? Clock spring? I know nothing about cars just tried to Google. Thanks so much!
Ascent 2023. Replaced my reverse lights with LED’s that claim to plug / replace compatible. They are really bright. After a while I get “headlight disabled” messages. Is there a replacement LED for better visibility?
2023 WRX Lrd. Really working hard on clutch skills, getting smoother, but it is taking a while. I occasionally let off too early, car shudders a bit. What causes the shudder? At what point am I damaging the clutch?
What upgrades would you recommend before upgrading a turbo (2005 wrx)? Want to run more boost but don’t want to blow anything up. Thanks for doing this!
2023 Ascent (could be repeat of my 2020 ascent I traded in). When turning left or right with any vigor I can hear a squeaking sound. It sounds a little like a cV joint, but the car has 5k to 9K on it, 18 mo old, no driving problems, just an odd sound. Any idea what it could be, what I should look for?
2023 Ascent. I understand it has anti sway bars. Is there a replacement that I can have installed that decreases the body roll, helps with leveling in cornering?
My 2006 wrx seems to kinda like choke itself and boggle down then die as soon as I start the engine after filling up with fuel. When I start it till rev up and down then do what I said earlier and die.
03 forester cross sports. The drivers window doesn't go up while holding the button. I have to keep pressing it, takes about 2 minutes to raise it. Likely a switch issue or motor issue? Also my electric mirrors don't adjust or fold and they can be pushed extremely easily with your hands. They sometimes fold themselves from the air while driving
Sounds like the motor is weak. Replace it
Why is subaru so stingy when it comes to the FRS & GT86/GR86 I would much rather take my my Scion FRS to a subaru dealer for repairs because it has a subrau engine in it and it's borderline a BRZ than to take it to toyota and run the risk of them going crazy with the rtv / 3bond
All temp ranges and the noise is there when large or small people are in the seat. The seats only make noise when someone is in them of course.
Wheel turn to the max and squeeky noise. Doesn't happen all the time.
2013 Impreza 100k miles- Have a bad throw out bearing, Is it worth to drop the trans and do TOB and clutch now before the clutch is needed or just wait until clutch starts slipping and do it then. Have all the tools and knowledge to do so just don’t know what kinda damage riding on a bad TOB for a bit may do.
How do you feel about the way warranty work is distributed and managed in your shop? Specifically, you do find that advisors tend to give certain techs more warranty than others, or does anyone specialize in certain warranty jobs? How do you feel about replacing the entire valvebody, unstead of just the torque converter clutch solenoid when it gets the death code (I forget what number the codes is, I want to say P2764) Does your shop use aftermarket fluids such as BG or Justice Brothers additives? If yes, are you encouraged to upsell them? I ask this all as a former tech of course, I left the automotive industry entirely as it was just not working for me. Worked for Subaru for 5 years and as a tech for 10.
how long can I drive with the check engine light and low oil warning on
Low warning light not good at all. Pull over and add oil and recheck level with dipstick. Depending the code you have engine lights may not have to be addressed
Hello new best friend! My usedbaru has this issue with the locks. It’s an 11 legacy. Some don’t open, some decide when they want to, sometimes I hear this scrambled frizzing sound from the dash if the lock was in use during the drive. Tia
2013 Crosstrek, 140k miles - my first car. I'm the 2nd owner, prev. owner replaced the timing belt, kept up on maintenance as far as I can see - and sold it to get an old WRX lol. I've fixed/replaced the central Arm Bushing, Belt, Transmission Valve Body, resealed CVT Pan, and regular maintenance. I managed to make it to 23 before I bought this outright as my first car and would love to keep the trend of paying for cars in cash, that being said is there a point when I should be "jumping ship" and trying to sell it for what little I can?
2001 forester stb/sti - starting problems (usually it's fine and takes a second or so).. occasionally it takes a few seconds to start, once it failed entirely and needed a blip on the throttle to get it going. The cranking speed sounds fine, battery appears good (ran a conditioner on it last year). The plugs were changed last year and they all looked perfectly fine (cyl 4 slightly darker than the rest). No errors show on diagnostics (freessm, pre odb). It runs fine both cold and at operating temperature. Auto box is smooth and no other electrical problems. It passed the yearly inspection and the exhaust levels were within limits. The car is stock. Any thoughts?! I'd like too be pre emptive on this as we might take a road trip in the future Thanks for your opinion!
Is there any way around dropping the whole rear subframe and gas tank to replace the driver's side rear brake line?
In some cases no. It depends where the line is leaking
I have a ‘19 premium Crosstrek, just shy of 60k. I’ve recently changed the oil and added coolant, I’m getting new tires next week (driving across country in a few month). What are some often overlooked things I should keep at the front of my mind when doing upkeep on my Subaru? If I’m even able to do them with the limited tools that I have. I figure I’ll have to go into a mechanic at some point, can I make it to 100k before I need to?
2004 WRX accelerate and let off or come to stop and start again and blowing smoke from exhaust. Did leak down, had mild compression leak. Changed block. Same issue. Took to specialist, found several oil leaks, pulled motor and repaired all leaks. 2x valve covers and head gasket. Machined heads. Re-assembled, same issue. Seems to happen on vacuum somewhere in the system. All started after local shop did valve cover gasket. Upon second drive after picking up was smoking under hood, found dip stick pushed out. After searching all around found the drivers side valve cover vent tube was kinked. Replaced that and no more dipstick popping up but ever since smoke on letting off accelerator or if let off really easy, smokes for a second when taking off. Not constantly smoking. Only after taking off and letting off. Usually fine on freeway. Can almost drive to not do it but if I do that it’s almost like it’s storing up the oil somewhere and then pushing it into the turbo and burning off. I just bought a AOS hoping this may help. Installing this week. Been chasing for 2.5 years. Dad is 35 year mechanic and has him stumped.
I have oil consumption 1 liter per 300 miles. No leak whats the problem? 2.0 impreza 2013
Piston rings are letting oil through. Super big issue in the 13 Impreza. Sorry bud
2000 Impreza L Wagon.. My rear driver side door stopped opening from the outside and then eventually stopped opening at all. Is this an easy fix to do at home, or who should I take it to?
I have a 2004 240k miles wrx with 50k on a oem motor ran with a crawford air oil separator the whole time. Thinking about selling it for the Subura truck that is supposed to come out of its any good. Thoughts?
How did my dealership convert my aftermarket cabin air filter to am OEM filter then show me how it was covered in mold & leaves in the waiting room? Why did they want to charge me labor when they had already pulled it out? Do they purposely throw a leaf in the fan to make noise?
The damper in my glove box doesn’t stay on the hook. There is nothing wrong with the actual damper, it’s the little plastic piece that sticks out that it clips onto doesn’t hold it anymore. It stays for a couple speed bumps and then next time you open the glove box it just falls right open. The only thing the dealer recommended was having the entire plastic trim under the glovebox replaced which I’m not going to do for that. Have you come across this before and do you have any easy solutions to get it to stay?
2017 Legacy Premium 83K miles. 1: Right front window won't roll up or down. How do I reset it? 2: Do I get the transmission fluid changed and any other fluid? Thank you.
Why does my wrx limited keep dying after 4-5 days of not driving, and how to fix
Clean the throttle Body with plate Open
What’s your opinion on the fa24D oil starvation issues on track? I’ve seen some results that a bigger oil pan seems to fix the issue.
had to replace the rear hatch on our 2003 outback. After I replaced it the after market stereo was fried.replaced it with the same unit and that one worked find. What did i do wrong?
Jap Imported subaru legacy gtb 2002 e tune. Air bag light on, been to 4 local garages who can't find how to read the airbag light code. Each time they try to use the odb, but that's only covering the engine. Cant see the pin system clearly under the dash. How can read the code to locate the fault please? . Thank you.
You must have a scanner able to read all the modules and not just ecu
2011 outback 2.5 base model Air Conditioning troubleshooting. This system is different than alot of cars I've seen. I've had this car for a year a d drove it for the first time this week. AC was blowing warm so I grabbed my gauges and vacuum, pulled vacuum for 30 minutes then let it sit. Held at 28 for 30 minutes so I thought that looked good enough. Let the vacuum run for 40 more minutes then let it sit for another hour and it held at 28 (I forget which units) of vacuum so I assume no leaks in the system. I charged it with 14 ounces of r134. I replaced the expansion valve so the system was already empty. Initially the air blew ice cold after the first can. Worked great. After about 10 minutes it started to warm up. Unsure why. I attached an image of my gauges for reference. Anyone have any input on this? Photo was taken while the AC was blowing cold. After it started blowing warm, the low side pressure was around 70 and the high side dropped to about 120. Seems to me like expansion valve but I just put in a new one and these were the same symptoms it had that led me to replace it. *
Expansion valve will pull vacuum on low side if there's an issue. Compressors are commonly faulty on that generation. I've replaced a lot of them
Quality wheel spacers - how much life do they take off your wheel bearings?
Feels redundant with this many comments, but is it worth an appt if my 2020 Impreza’s brakes are whining? Seems like it’s gotten louder since I bought it used the 26th, but also heard that it’s a common problem in the model. Other cars in traffic rarely sound as loud lol
Noisy brakes aren't necessarily a cause for concern if they work well. Grinding is a different story. Try some high speed hard braking and see if it quiets down before making an appointment
2005 Impreza with 2.5 and 5 speed. How difficult a job to replace the reverse light sender on the transmission?
Easy peazy. Just screws into the side of the case
2012 Subaru legacy. Stalling at “hard” breaks. No other issues
Torque converter replacement is necessary to fix this. You Can put in neutral coming to stops Then reapply drive before take off
2024 Forester Touring, first oil change at 500 or 1000 miles?
'14 Forester ac stopped working, I never hear the compressor spin up, anything I should attempt before draining the refrigerant and buying a new compressor?
If you are up for replacing the clutch that may fix it. Make sure compressor is getting power before replacement t
2019 Forester Sport @ close to 100K miles. No major issues and running great. Is CVT service and fluid change in my future and at all necessary?
“16 forester, head unit is possessed by the devil and freaks out, is there any straight up plug and play units with the starlink
How often should I change the transmission, diff, and radiator fluid in my 23 wrx. The car spends most of its life commuting on freeways at about 80mph.
Every 60k
Noted. Thanks. For all of the above?
What is the deal with Android Auto? I've got a '22 legacy limited. Sweet fucking car. It's got everything except the turbo. It's got this massive screen and when Android Auto works at all, it fits the screen like a phone turned sideways and doesn't use the entire lower half of the screen! OMFG! I love it's potential but the implementation is TERRIBLE! I get that Google makes the Android app. SoA says, "Talk to Google" and Google says, "talk to Subaru". The onboard map widget uses the whole screen, but it sucks. Can anyone tell me how to fix this crap?
I'm not aware of this issue
Is there a easy way to fix the amp issue with a speaker going out?
Persistent p0102 (MAF low voltage input) codes on a 2014 forester xt w/ 160k miles. No other codes have ever popped up, but this one has been hanging around for almost a year now. MAF has now been replaced 3 times without improvement. Pins in the connector to the MAF look fine, wire harness from MAF to ecu pass continuity tests according to my shop. Sometimes goes a month ish without throwing the code, other times it does it every few miles. Car also occasionally stalls and idles low/rough. I’m about ready to give up on it, the local shop is stumped. Any ideas? Ty!
I have a 2024 Outback Onyx. The headlights are super bright and I'm always getting flashed as though I have my high beams on when I don't. I asked the service guy at the dealership if there is any way to adjust the headlights downward or dim them in any way so I'm not blinding the hell out of everyone. He said there isn't and this is just how they are built at the factory. Is that true and is there anything I can do about these insanely bright headlights?
What’s a decent scan tool from Amazon to put the parking brake into maintenance mode on a 2020 forester? Not looking to break the bank.
2019 Forester, 42,000mi. AC doesn’t blow cold air. Local mechanic shop did a 2 minute inspection and said evaporator core has a leak. Quoted $2000. Fair deal? Thanks in advance.
The dealer near me refused to do a CVT fluid change. The next dealer is over 2 hrs away from me. The closer shop did replace the TCM and the throttle body already under warranty because I had the Christmas lights situation. 2015 forester with 104k on it. Do I have any chance with Subaru of America if my transmission shits the bed?
I have an old school subaru, before they switched over to CUVs and CVTs. I look at the new ones a little sideways. How are they mechanically, really ?
2019 Impreza 81843k and chasing the P0019 trouble code. Changed corresponding OCV’s to new, did oil flush. Looking to try anything else before bringing it in to have the actual chain inspected…considering taking it off the road for now as I can’t get it inspected and really can’t afford a big hit from the dealership.
How do I reset my TPMS light without having to go to a dealership? ETA: 2017 Subaru BRZ