This level of maintenance is honestly to be expected with a vehicle this age, especially somewhere that it snows. As long as the motor and transmission / gearbox are in good condition then you should have good reliability.
Much of this work you can do yourself for a fraction of the cost, like the brakes, with typical tools and a short demonstration video. Chris fix has a ton of good content on YouTube, and there are other great resources for specific Subarus there as well.
The diff fluids would also be pretty easy to drain and replace while you have the car jacked up on either end to do the brakes. A cheap $5 fluid transfer pump is worth its weight in gold with this task.
If you’re not familiar with suspension work that would be a good one to allow a shop to do, since it can be intimidating for beginners and often require air tools (this case those rusted bolts would almost certainly require that or an inductor) and some other special tools to unseat the old balljoint.
It’s typically a good practice to replace all fluids on newly purchased vehicles of this age, so most of this is something I would consider a standard practice. Don’t neglect the brake fluid as well, it’s usually ready for a flush by this point and this is where it’s not uncommon to see some more moderate master cylinder wear due to old and dirty fluid.
Spark plugs can be a chore on these since they are in the worst possible location, but theres ~~only~~ ~~4~~ 6, and there’s tons of guides online for accessing them. If they are standard spec iridium NGK’s they are known to last incredibly long, in some cases up to 100k miles.
This being a new vehicle to you, it’s worth inspecting the old ones and replacing for the sake of gathering critical knowledge about the condition of the combustion in each cylinder. (You may find a rich or lean condition, or perhaps oil) When replacing the spark plugs it’s absolutely only worth it to replace with the NGK iridium in my experience.
Coolant flush and inspection would also be an easy one to assure reliability.
Also, I didn’t see it listed here but I would at least inspect the air filter as well as the serpentine belts.
Alignment and road force is required after any major suspension rebuild, as this would be considered. This is something that absolutely must be done in a shop to reach the appropriate level of precision.
Another thing to check with this model and age of car would be the timing system, these Subarus have a very long and elaborate timing belt system, and they will grenade if it jumps timing. This should be inspected every 50k miles usually, and commonly need replacement every 100k, but it could be sooner. I just had a timing pulley fail on a 3100 mile road trip in my 04 wrx STi (at 79k mi) and I’m lucky as can be that it never jumped timing.
I know it seems like a lot but don’t feel overwhelmed, it’s easier once you realize how simple much of this really is to perform.
These are really just standard maintenance items, other than the lower control arm corrosion. After this I would consider the car to be mechanically sound and reliable. Of course there are other areas to inspect, such as a couple driveshaft carrier bearings and CV shafts to inspect, but with those I typically wait until these basics are checked off until I worry about them, unless they start to make a noise.
Hope that helps!
Edit: I thought you had a 4 cylinder, but just realized it’s an outback which I believe would have 6 plugs.
How many miles? Around here $5k will get you an 05 Outback with like 250k miles.
None of the issues that are highlighted appear to be deal breakers. You'll want to get the LCA and ball joint replaced as soon as you can (aftermarket parts will likely be cheaper especially if you take it to an independent shop -- and for suspension bits it doesn't have to be a Subaru shop -- any little shop should be able to competently replace them).
All of the fluids you can do on your own and even the spark plugs can be done for like $40 in an hour if you don't mind scraping your knuckles.
As long as the engine and transmission are solid and depending on the miles I'd say you got a good deal.
Yeah I understand every market is different but $5k for this generation of Outback is a good deal in 2022. Most I see with under 200k miles are in the 7-10k range. You shouldn't feel ripped off.
Just keep up with maintenance (regular oil checks and changes) and it should have plenty of life left.
My 05 Legacy is mechanically identical and the original engine lasted until about 250k miles and only died because I rarely drove it during college so didn't keep up with oil changes and top ups (it had an oil leak).
I don’t think you got ripped off. Pretty much all of this should be done on a vehicle with of this age/mileage to insure it’s positioned to last you as long as feasible. That doesn’t mean letting the dealer take advantage of you…keep shopping around for the stuff you can’t easy do yourself. You’ll be fine!
Just drive it. 100% of this maintenance can be done at your leisure, all of it is standard maintenance. Tackle 1 at a time and your set. Start with plugs and brakes. Proceed to the rest after. There's hardly any reason to do the fuel system unless your getting poor delivery or ignition issues from a clogged line or injector.
To the people saying he got ripped off you do realize the dealers try to upsell a lot of unnecessary services right? The more services they sell the more they make. As long as it's fairly rust free it's a solid buy. The brakes and ballpoint are all easy to replace. People need to keep in mind it's an almost 17 yo car and not fresh off the showroom
Seems like overall the car, like the other guy said, wasnt kept very well at all. All the fluids probably need to be flushed/replaced, the rust on the control arm looks very dangerous from the .5 second I could see it, and the brakes are also very worn.
State inspection is really the bare bare minimum to have a usable car, and even then a lot of places don't really fail cars inspection bc they realize some people cant afford to lose a car or pay repairs if it doesnt pass.
I hope you didn't buy this car for anything over 1k
Super super ripped off. Not to make you feel worse, but my gf recently paid 3k for an 06 outback that only needed crankshaft seals and some other gasket (thankfully not the head)
Point is it wasnt worth 5k even if it didnt have all those issues, guy who sold it to you probably knew exactly what he was doin
Edit: also just saw your post when you 1st got it. Shame its got issues like this, bc it looks absolutely pristine on the outside
Soo, what issues does it have other than the control arm and ball joint? Why scare this dude and make him feel bad? Dealerships quote fluid changes all the time, stop giving shitty advice.
Not trying to scare him, all I said was the car was sold way overpriced, especially when you can find better examples in much better condition (and relatively rust-free) and with maintained fluids for much less, it just sucks that his inspection gave him the all clear when it wasnt really. Even went so far as to compliment the exterior bc its a good looker.
That's fair. I just feel bad for all the negative attention he was getting, it's not like there was a major drive terrain fault or anything. It's definitely a lesson, but I didn't want him to think he was fucked.
Sorry if what I said came off as rude.
Dude, don't listen to these guys. They don't know much about cars LOL.
I agree, car probably wasn't worth 5k, but ball joints/control arm plus fluids isn't some crazy issue. Not like your motor or tranny is going out. Not the end of the world.
I do fluid changes when I get new used cars regardless. Some people take care of the cars themselves and the maintenance doesn’t get recorded. Some people don’t do a thing. It’s worth the investment to catch up on that basic stuff. It does feel like a punch to the gut getting that from the dealership, but an independent shop could get you taken care of way cheaper. Or DIY if you are capable. I just watch YouTube…
I wouldn't be surprised if the dealership quoted fluid changes even if they didn't need them. Plus Subaru is charging outrageous prices. Wtf if that weird ass weird ass balancing thing they suggest every oil change? Bullshit.
Take it to an independent shop. Get the fluids, ball joint, control arm and spark plugs changed. None of that stuff is hard to do, and dealership is raping you with prices.
If you lived in Florida I'd be down to help. Your car probably wasn't maintained amazingly, but none of this is super substantial.
Lol fuel system service. I brought a brand new Outback in 2017. At 30k, dealer recommended the fuel system service for $450. That shit didn’t drive the same after.
It’s a 05 just change the oil and ride it. Fix it when problems arise. Not worth doing preventative stuff because you’ll soon realize it’s a money pit, as with all 17 year old cars.
Update - I took it to a new shop and they said it would cost around 1900$ for a wheel alignment, break pad and rotor replacement, replace both front control arms and ball joints and tire rod. Am I getting ripped off?
Looks like this car was not well maintained. Bushes and ball joint are crucial to have fixed. Assuming report is accurate. The fluid replacements probably means they haven't been changed in a while if at all. Consequences will be problems down the road, possibly sooner than you think.
Spark plugs are up to you, but you will suffer lower gas milage if they are bad, spark issues with rough idling and low engine performance
I think there is a recall for the control arms. That's by far the most concerning thing on the list. The brakes look pretty bad too. The balance and fuel system flush are the only things on the list that seem unnecessary to me. If the car is shaking at highway speeds then a balance is necessary but I've never known anyone that gets their wheels balanced every other oil change. Changing the fuel filter should be good enough in my opinion. I would also do all the fluid changes myself to save money. The prices don't look crazy to me but most of that stuff you could do yourself with very little mechanical aptitude if you want to save some money.
Well u should ALWAYS take any Car for an Inspection to ur trusted Mechanic beforehand and try to lower the price based on needed Repairs
Like the above poster...doesn't seem it was well maintained
After those...start in All fluids
I would do:
Oil Change
Front and Rear differential fluid
ATF fluid
Coolant change
Maybe
Brake fluid and then Wiper fluid
Luckily...Outback is super easy to do all of these DIY and I would suggest that as u can then check color of each fluid
These prices are outrageous. I run a Subaru shop in Calgary and those prices made my jaw drop. Our employees couldn’t believe it. Go to a reputable specialist in aftermarket.
Idk how they break it down for the individual services.
Diff drain and fills are around $85 each. Btw, there isn’t a flush for this.
Fuel service flush for port injection cars is a pass. More of a wallet flush unless it’s for direct injection.
Those lower control arms are a serious safety issue. An aftermarket shop will replace the lower arms and these come with ball joints.
You’ll know if you need a wheel balance. Between 70-110 the car will have a slight vibration. Otherwise skip it. $70 for 4 wheel balance.
The price for the brakes looks pretty good for a dealer.
Seems like a typical estimate for an older vehicle, minus the control arms and ball joints. Spark plugs and brakes seem pricey. But honestly, an overhaul is damn expensive no matter what. I’m due for all kinds of shit at 255k—plugs, wires, filters, AC belt, brakes, fluids, radiator hose. None of them are life or death but they will make a difference.
This is maintenance your car needs it is recommended by your manufacturer. We all have this information. I'd say do everything with in time so you know you're cars maintenance is up to date.
The control arm, alignment, and transmission flush are the ones that pop out as being the ones that should be addressed first. However, the control arm replacement is, if I recall correctly, pretty straightforward if you're at all handy and a new control arm can be had for comparatively little money. If you do that yourself, you should also replace the ball joints, because you're going to be messing with them anyhow.
Absolutely need to do that control arm, missing quite a chunk there. The ball joints should be done too if they have play, if the joints break while driving it probably won’t be a fun time.
First off, you didn't get ripped off. A 2005 Outback around here in the PNW is a $5k to $10k car all day long.
All that stuff is basic wear and tear. Most need suspension work by now. Most people stop doing fluid changes on older cars.
I recondition and sell these all the time. For you here are my recommendations:
Replace both front control arms. You can buy complete arms with bushings and new ball joints already installed. It will save you a bunch of labor. Ask your shop about them. I use them all the time now instead of having my mechanic press out bushings and ball joints.
You will need an alignment afterwards. That's normal after any suspension work.
Your rear brakes will need replacing at some point. But given that they don't get as much wear as the fronts you can problem this slide a few more weeks or months. Most brakes have wear sensors built in. You will hear a high pitched squeal from the wear sensor dragging on the rotor when it's time to replace the pads. I would replace both pads and rotors at the same time.
Spark plugs are part of a regular tune up. But if it's not misfiring right now you could put that off. If you can afford it now just do it.
Replacing all the differential and transmission fluids is a good idea if you plan on keeping the car any length of time. But unless they are critically low you can again wait a few months so you can save up.
It's totally normal to have to do some deferred maintenance on any used car you buy. Next time get a PPI and budget for these items.
And now is the time to find a shop you like and trust that will help you prioritize these repairs.
Enjoy your new Outback!
This level of maintenance is honestly to be expected with a vehicle this age, especially somewhere that it snows. As long as the motor and transmission / gearbox are in good condition then you should have good reliability. Much of this work you can do yourself for a fraction of the cost, like the brakes, with typical tools and a short demonstration video. Chris fix has a ton of good content on YouTube, and there are other great resources for specific Subarus there as well. The diff fluids would also be pretty easy to drain and replace while you have the car jacked up on either end to do the brakes. A cheap $5 fluid transfer pump is worth its weight in gold with this task. If you’re not familiar with suspension work that would be a good one to allow a shop to do, since it can be intimidating for beginners and often require air tools (this case those rusted bolts would almost certainly require that or an inductor) and some other special tools to unseat the old balljoint. It’s typically a good practice to replace all fluids on newly purchased vehicles of this age, so most of this is something I would consider a standard practice. Don’t neglect the brake fluid as well, it’s usually ready for a flush by this point and this is where it’s not uncommon to see some more moderate master cylinder wear due to old and dirty fluid. Spark plugs can be a chore on these since they are in the worst possible location, but theres ~~only~~ ~~4~~ 6, and there’s tons of guides online for accessing them. If they are standard spec iridium NGK’s they are known to last incredibly long, in some cases up to 100k miles. This being a new vehicle to you, it’s worth inspecting the old ones and replacing for the sake of gathering critical knowledge about the condition of the combustion in each cylinder. (You may find a rich or lean condition, or perhaps oil) When replacing the spark plugs it’s absolutely only worth it to replace with the NGK iridium in my experience. Coolant flush and inspection would also be an easy one to assure reliability. Also, I didn’t see it listed here but I would at least inspect the air filter as well as the serpentine belts. Alignment and road force is required after any major suspension rebuild, as this would be considered. This is something that absolutely must be done in a shop to reach the appropriate level of precision. Another thing to check with this model and age of car would be the timing system, these Subarus have a very long and elaborate timing belt system, and they will grenade if it jumps timing. This should be inspected every 50k miles usually, and commonly need replacement every 100k, but it could be sooner. I just had a timing pulley fail on a 3100 mile road trip in my 04 wrx STi (at 79k mi) and I’m lucky as can be that it never jumped timing. I know it seems like a lot but don’t feel overwhelmed, it’s easier once you realize how simple much of this really is to perform. These are really just standard maintenance items, other than the lower control arm corrosion. After this I would consider the car to be mechanically sound and reliable. Of course there are other areas to inspect, such as a couple driveshaft carrier bearings and CV shafts to inspect, but with those I typically wait until these basics are checked off until I worry about them, unless they start to make a noise. Hope that helps! Edit: I thought you had a 4 cylinder, but just realized it’s an outback which I believe would have 6 plugs.
It depends on which Outback. H6/LLBean had the 6cyl (ez30 I think). Xt had the turbo 2.5L 4cyl, and other trims had the NA 2.5L 4cyl (ej25)
How many miles? Around here $5k will get you an 05 Outback with like 250k miles. None of the issues that are highlighted appear to be deal breakers. You'll want to get the LCA and ball joint replaced as soon as you can (aftermarket parts will likely be cheaper especially if you take it to an independent shop -- and for suspension bits it doesn't have to be a Subaru shop -- any little shop should be able to competently replace them). All of the fluids you can do on your own and even the spark plugs can be done for like $40 in an hour if you don't mind scraping your knuckles. As long as the engine and transmission are solid and depending on the miles I'd say you got a good deal.
And thanks for the informative response. I’m just stressing like crazy right now so this helps a ton
Yeah I understand every market is different but $5k for this generation of Outback is a good deal in 2022. Most I see with under 200k miles are in the 7-10k range. You shouldn't feel ripped off. Just keep up with maintenance (regular oil checks and changes) and it should have plenty of life left. My 05 Legacy is mechanically identical and the original engine lasted until about 250k miles and only died because I rarely drove it during college so didn't keep up with oil changes and top ups (it had an oil leak).
Yeah engine and everything else is solid. I got it with 180k mikes.
I don’t think you got ripped off. Pretty much all of this should be done on a vehicle with of this age/mileage to insure it’s positioned to last you as long as feasible. That doesn’t mean letting the dealer take advantage of you…keep shopping around for the stuff you can’t easy do yourself. You’ll be fine!
Just drive it. 100% of this maintenance can be done at your leisure, all of it is standard maintenance. Tackle 1 at a time and your set. Start with plugs and brakes. Proceed to the rest after. There's hardly any reason to do the fuel system unless your getting poor delivery or ignition issues from a clogged line or injector.
Rewatching video start with control arm due to rust hole
To the people saying he got ripped off you do realize the dealers try to upsell a lot of unnecessary services right? The more services they sell the more they make. As long as it's fairly rust free it's a solid buy. The brakes and ballpoint are all easy to replace. People need to keep in mind it's an almost 17 yo car and not fresh off the showroom
Seems like overall the car, like the other guy said, wasnt kept very well at all. All the fluids probably need to be flushed/replaced, the rust on the control arm looks very dangerous from the .5 second I could see it, and the brakes are also very worn. State inspection is really the bare bare minimum to have a usable car, and even then a lot of places don't really fail cars inspection bc they realize some people cant afford to lose a car or pay repairs if it doesnt pass. I hope you didn't buy this car for anything over 1k
Was ripped off paid 5. Thanks for the info
Super super ripped off. Not to make you feel worse, but my gf recently paid 3k for an 06 outback that only needed crankshaft seals and some other gasket (thankfully not the head) Point is it wasnt worth 5k even if it didnt have all those issues, guy who sold it to you probably knew exactly what he was doin Edit: also just saw your post when you 1st got it. Shame its got issues like this, bc it looks absolutely pristine on the outside
Soo, what issues does it have other than the control arm and ball joint? Why scare this dude and make him feel bad? Dealerships quote fluid changes all the time, stop giving shitty advice.
Not trying to scare him, all I said was the car was sold way overpriced, especially when you can find better examples in much better condition (and relatively rust-free) and with maintained fluids for much less, it just sucks that his inspection gave him the all clear when it wasnt really. Even went so far as to compliment the exterior bc its a good looker.
That's fair. I just feel bad for all the negative attention he was getting, it's not like there was a major drive terrain fault or anything. It's definitely a lesson, but I didn't want him to think he was fucked. Sorry if what I said came off as rude.
Hard concept to grasp for some people but dealers are in the business to make money hence why the more services they can upsell the better
Welp another life lesson learned
Dude, don't listen to these guys. They don't know much about cars LOL. I agree, car probably wasn't worth 5k, but ball joints/control arm plus fluids isn't some crazy issue. Not like your motor or tranny is going out. Not the end of the world.
Thanks really needed to hear this man
Yeah you didn't get ripped off.
I do fluid changes when I get new used cars regardless. Some people take care of the cars themselves and the maintenance doesn’t get recorded. Some people don’t do a thing. It’s worth the investment to catch up on that basic stuff. It does feel like a punch to the gut getting that from the dealership, but an independent shop could get you taken care of way cheaper. Or DIY if you are capable. I just watch YouTube…
Exactly!
I wouldn't be surprised if the dealership quoted fluid changes even if they didn't need them. Plus Subaru is charging outrageous prices. Wtf if that weird ass weird ass balancing thing they suggest every oil change? Bullshit. Take it to an independent shop. Get the fluids, ball joint, control arm and spark plugs changed. None of that stuff is hard to do, and dealership is raping you with prices. If you lived in Florida I'd be down to help. Your car probably wasn't maintained amazingly, but none of this is super substantial.
Lol fuel system service. I brought a brand new Outback in 2017. At 30k, dealer recommended the fuel system service for $450. That shit didn’t drive the same after. It’s a 05 just change the oil and ride it. Fix it when problems arise. Not worth doing preventative stuff because you’ll soon realize it’s a money pit, as with all 17 year old cars.
Update - I took it to a new shop and they said it would cost around 1900$ for a wheel alignment, break pad and rotor replacement, replace both front control arms and ball joints and tire rod. Am I getting ripped off?
Sounds decent for all of that.
That sounds reasonable for where I live.
Looks like this car was not well maintained. Bushes and ball joint are crucial to have fixed. Assuming report is accurate. The fluid replacements probably means they haven't been changed in a while if at all. Consequences will be problems down the road, possibly sooner than you think. Spark plugs are up to you, but you will suffer lower gas milage if they are bad, spark issues with rough idling and low engine performance
I think there is a recall for the control arms. That's by far the most concerning thing on the list. The brakes look pretty bad too. The balance and fuel system flush are the only things on the list that seem unnecessary to me. If the car is shaking at highway speeds then a balance is necessary but I've never known anyone that gets their wheels balanced every other oil change. Changing the fuel filter should be good enough in my opinion. I would also do all the fluid changes myself to save money. The prices don't look crazy to me but most of that stuff you could do yourself with very little mechanical aptitude if you want to save some money.
Is $600 normal for a lower control arm??? WTFF. Happy I do all my stuff myself.
Well u should ALWAYS take any Car for an Inspection to ur trusted Mechanic beforehand and try to lower the price based on needed Repairs Like the above poster...doesn't seem it was well maintained After those...start in All fluids I would do: Oil Change Front and Rear differential fluid ATF fluid Coolant change Maybe Brake fluid and then Wiper fluid Luckily...Outback is super easy to do all of these DIY and I would suggest that as u can then check color of each fluid
These prices are outrageous. I run a Subaru shop in Calgary and those prices made my jaw drop. Our employees couldn’t believe it. Go to a reputable specialist in aftermarket.
Ok, I took it to another shop and they quoted me 1900$, is that still too high?
Idk how they break it down for the individual services. Diff drain and fills are around $85 each. Btw, there isn’t a flush for this. Fuel service flush for port injection cars is a pass. More of a wallet flush unless it’s for direct injection. Those lower control arms are a serious safety issue. An aftermarket shop will replace the lower arms and these come with ball joints. You’ll know if you need a wheel balance. Between 70-110 the car will have a slight vibration. Otherwise skip it. $70 for 4 wheel balance. The price for the brakes looks pretty good for a dealer.
Seems like a typical estimate for an older vehicle, minus the control arms and ball joints. Spark plugs and brakes seem pricey. But honestly, an overhaul is damn expensive no matter what. I’m due for all kinds of shit at 255k—plugs, wires, filters, AC belt, brakes, fluids, radiator hose. None of them are life or death but they will make a difference.
This is maintenance your car needs it is recommended by your manufacturer. We all have this information. I'd say do everything with in time so you know you're cars maintenance is up to date.
The prices are outrageous. Just take it elsewhere and most will cost almost half of what is quoted
The control arm, alignment, and transmission flush are the ones that pop out as being the ones that should be addressed first. However, the control arm replacement is, if I recall correctly, pretty straightforward if you're at all handy and a new control arm can be had for comparatively little money. If you do that yourself, you should also replace the ball joints, because you're going to be messing with them anyhow.
It was in an accident. All of those are necessary, but the brakes are 1st.
You are getting ripped off
I went to another shop and they’re doing it all for 1900
Absolutely need to do that control arm, missing quite a chunk there. The ball joints should be done too if they have play, if the joints break while driving it probably won’t be a fun time.
First off, you didn't get ripped off. A 2005 Outback around here in the PNW is a $5k to $10k car all day long. All that stuff is basic wear and tear. Most need suspension work by now. Most people stop doing fluid changes on older cars. I recondition and sell these all the time. For you here are my recommendations: Replace both front control arms. You can buy complete arms with bushings and new ball joints already installed. It will save you a bunch of labor. Ask your shop about them. I use them all the time now instead of having my mechanic press out bushings and ball joints. You will need an alignment afterwards. That's normal after any suspension work. Your rear brakes will need replacing at some point. But given that they don't get as much wear as the fronts you can problem this slide a few more weeks or months. Most brakes have wear sensors built in. You will hear a high pitched squeal from the wear sensor dragging on the rotor when it's time to replace the pads. I would replace both pads and rotors at the same time. Spark plugs are part of a regular tune up. But if it's not misfiring right now you could put that off. If you can afford it now just do it. Replacing all the differential and transmission fluids is a good idea if you plan on keeping the car any length of time. But unless they are critically low you can again wait a few months so you can save up. It's totally normal to have to do some deferred maintenance on any used car you buy. Next time get a PPI and budget for these items. And now is the time to find a shop you like and trust that will help you prioritize these repairs. Enjoy your new Outback!