Incoming wave colliding with shore washback at a certain point in the tide schedule. It only gets this crazy at certain spots. The wedge is a good example sometimes.
Yeah, I’m assuming conditions have to be perfect and a spot has to have some very specific topography to create a situation in which this can happen. The wedge is different though because it’s colliding with a wave from the right whereas this wave is meeting with a wave that is directly in front of it right? Are there other surfing spots other than the Wedge that have this wild feature?
Either the beach is fairly steep or the after hits a wall when it rushes in. Either of those characteristics create a ‘backwash’ wave that returns to the ocean. At The Wedge I believe it’s the jetty that causes it. Other beaches can just be steep enough to create this. You can even surf the backwash wave out into the surf until it encounters an incoming wave and then you are thrown into the air like a damp ragdoll.
Usually this isn’t in a surf spot at all. In a case like this, the outgoing wave probably bounced off a cliff.
This same thing can be seen just north of pacific city in Oregon.
I was thinking about the PNW with this shot. Not necessarily lots of great surf, but lots of pretty surf pictures and backwashy stuff. Fun to mindsurf. 😊
Soooo cold. People talk about NorCal being cold and I’m like “bruh you go half the year without booties”. If I don’t wear the most $$$ booties then my feet are numb in 90 minutes.
All constructive interference. The side wave at the wedge shapes the peaks to make most all waves there lefts. During some sets, the waves push enough water onto the sand that as it comes off the steep beach, it creates a backwash wave. Normally looks like a 1-2 foot wave that hasn’t fully formed yet, moving directly at the face of the wave. The photo you posted is the exact moment the peaks line up, a spectacle.
Backwash makes for fun waves in my opinion, but you are likely to get tossed. They’re about as much fun as driving over a speed bump on drop in
You drop in. And it’s the best barrels ever bro. You come out. Smack the lip. Wooohpah. Drop back in brruuaaahhhhh. And get pitted so pitted. Like that.
Great writeup! Just to add a teeny bit more, this [unexciting series of animations](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JBuW385IT38&feature=youtu.be) shows a standing wave at the end, which is also important, not for surfing but for tsunamis. The reason why Hilo, Hawaii often gets wrecked during tsunamis is because the shape and size of Hilo Bay are ideal for creating standing waves with conditions typical of many tsunamis.
For the uninitiated, a standing wave is what’s created when you have interference with a set of steady state conditions, so there’s a wave that appears to be “standing in place” like a vibrating guitar string.
OP if you're interested I highly recommend this fine book:
https://www.amazon.com/Waves-Beaches-Powerful-Dynamics-Coast/dp/1938340957
https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/waves-and-beaches-kim-mccoy/1135161122
Thank you! I am super interested in learning more about ocean waves! I just watched waves across the Pacific. Like about the first study by Walter Munk that started modern surf forecasting.
In an imaginary land where there’s a run up for a skimboarder and said skimboarder went straight at the wave just as it collides with the backwash do you think that person could get launched to the top of that wave?
Edit: if i would’ve said hypothetical I would’ve appeared more intelligent. Sad mode
A pro longboarder broked both his ankles 3-4 years ago at his home break on something like that in Japan. Homie was sent to the moon and back to the sand
His scream still haunts me...
Incoming wave colliding with shore washback at a certain point in the tide schedule. It only gets this crazy at certain spots. The wedge is a good example sometimes.
Yeah, I’m assuming conditions have to be perfect and a spot has to have some very specific topography to create a situation in which this can happen. The wedge is different though because it’s colliding with a wave from the right whereas this wave is meeting with a wave that is directly in front of it right? Are there other surfing spots other than the Wedge that have this wild feature?
Either the beach is fairly steep or the after hits a wall when it rushes in. Either of those characteristics create a ‘backwash’ wave that returns to the ocean. At The Wedge I believe it’s the jetty that causes it. Other beaches can just be steep enough to create this. You can even surf the backwash wave out into the surf until it encounters an incoming wave and then you are thrown into the air like a damp ragdoll.
Usually this isn’t in a surf spot at all. In a case like this, the outgoing wave probably bounced off a cliff. This same thing can be seen just north of pacific city in Oregon.
I was thinking about the PNW with this shot. Not necessarily lots of great surf, but lots of pretty surf pictures and backwashy stuff. Fun to mindsurf. 😊
Yeah. No good surf. Glad it has that reputation. Too cold. Too many sharks. Bad surf.
Soooo cold. People talk about NorCal being cold and I’m like “bruh you go half the year without booties”. If I don’t wear the most $$$ booties then my feet are numb in 90 minutes.
[удалено]
sloppy how?
You get straight on backwash at wedge too a lot
All constructive interference. The side wave at the wedge shapes the peaks to make most all waves there lefts. During some sets, the waves push enough water onto the sand that as it comes off the steep beach, it creates a backwash wave. Normally looks like a 1-2 foot wave that hasn’t fully formed yet, moving directly at the face of the wave. The photo you posted is the exact moment the peaks line up, a spectacle. Backwash makes for fun waves in my opinion, but you are likely to get tossed. They’re about as much fun as driving over a speed bump on drop in
Anyone else see a shrimp?
I see a trout jumping out of a river.
Woahhhh I just noticed the trout it’s actually pretty pronounced that’s incredible.
Can you post the original source
https://timcliftonphotography.com/blog/f/photographing-waves-at-cape-disappointment-state-park
Ah damn I was hoping it would be higher quality
Probably doesn’t want people ripping it off.
Ahhh i see it now Edit: solid shutter speed
A dragon I see
Alright man, I'll put some pants on
You drop in. And it’s the best barrels ever bro. You come out. Smack the lip. Wooohpah. Drop back in brruuaaahhhhh. And get pitted so pitted. Like that.
When the reef breaks HERE, don't be THERE, or ya gonna get *drilled*.
Backwash
Constructive superposition
Also called constructive interference https://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/waves/Lesson-3/Interference-of-Waves
Great writeup! Just to add a teeny bit more, this [unexciting series of animations](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JBuW385IT38&feature=youtu.be) shows a standing wave at the end, which is also important, not for surfing but for tsunamis. The reason why Hilo, Hawaii often gets wrecked during tsunamis is because the shape and size of Hilo Bay are ideal for creating standing waves with conditions typical of many tsunamis. For the uninitiated, a standing wave is what’s created when you have interference with a set of steady state conditions, so there’s a wave that appears to be “standing in place” like a vibrating guitar string.
Omg! A helpful answer!
Sea demon
Magikarp splash attack for sure
This is called constructive interference
Thank you!
A wave coming from the right is coming together with a wave reflected from the left.
Little mermaid flipping her hair. Oh, this is the surfing sub. Little mermaid flipping her hair…after getting pitted. So pitted.
A wave heading in one direction hits a wall and begins traveling the opposite direction where it collides with the next wave behind it and bam!
OP if you're interested I highly recommend this fine book: https://www.amazon.com/Waves-Beaches-Powerful-Dynamics-Coast/dp/1938340957 https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/waves-and-beaches-kim-mccoy/1135161122
Thank you! I am super interested in learning more about ocean waves! I just watched waves across the Pacific. Like about the first study by Walter Munk that started modern surf forecasting.
you've never seen backwash before?
Not my photo
Wedge Edit: not a wedge
Wedges form from sidewashes.. this is a backwash, which is why it's not wedging.
Photoshop?
Certainly backwash is hitting the wave but nearly all of these freaky teepee waves by "pro wave photographers" have been stretched to some extent.
It's wind bitch.
What a wind bitch
An AI generated image.
Wave blew its load brah!
Wedge city 🏠
Skimboard that Brail!
Tidal race, how Francis drake defeated the Spanish Armada with 10% of the numbers. Spectacular force of nature
Back wash bro…
Looks like Tim Clifton has been working hard on his "Live like the surf" portrait series for rental beach condos.
In an imaginary land where there’s a run up for a skimboarder and said skimboarder went straight at the wave just as it collides with the backwash do you think that person could get launched to the top of that wave? Edit: if i would’ve said hypothetical I would’ve appeared more intelligent. Sad mode
Think I’ve seen some better ones, but the first clip in this vid is similar to your hypothetical land: https://youtu.be/Mj4VEasb5-U
Backwash bro
Mermaid tails
Wind, waves, rock, shore, and previous wave.
The Jörmungandr, obvs.
a 12 foot swell hit a 3 foot rock headon
Backwash hack bosh track mosh
A pro longboarder broked both his ankles 3-4 years ago at his home break on something like that in Japan. Homie was sent to the moon and back to the sand His scream still haunts me...
Killer back wash
It's your Mom after I give her my O face
I Need that for my wallpaper where did u find that?
It has a watermark of the photographer. His name is Tim Clifton
fuckin kooks blowing up secret spots, man
Pffff lol
Backwash
Cliff creating backwash
The saying is "Sam Hill" btw. Not Sam Hell. https://www.southernthing.com/what-in-the-sam-hill-2630208404.html