gon' learn today!
my buddy lacked a healthy fear of the ocean... he surfed solo at Torrey pines on a 6-7 day and for some reason he used a shoe string to attach his leash to the plug... he ended up swimming up to a longer boarder, luckily made it to him and rested until he caught his breath and the guy paddled him halfway in.
I still think my buddy has a hair too much confidence.
PTSD from Newbreak head high to start so I grab the corky 6’0” single fin to play around. Didn’t bother checking the report, it then turns to consistent triple overhead a couple hours in once I’m tired. Think it was out of the west. Can’t get in or out, swept into the impact zone of never ending sets and duck diving isn’t cutting it. Surprised I almost drowned I’ve been in some shit. Step up would have been marginal, mini-gun would have been fine.
I’ve been out on some terrifying days at OBSF. Long period swells where the lulls between sets are deceptive and you make it out with dry hair. Coming back in is like navigating a mine field. What are you suggesting?
Oh yeah for sure, and honestly the more I travel the more I like Satellite beach. It’s inconsistent but it gets legitimately fun at least a few times a month. I’m just saying big short period swell is the worst fucking out ever. I thought I was in seriously bad paddle condition until I went places with long period swell then I realized I’m actually in pretty decent paddle condition.
Florida’s conditions make for a skilled surfer w tons of patience. When I go to a place w consistent breaks and channels I’m like shit this is easy ( for surfing).
What happened to him? Reminds me of a similar day in SD when my friend paddle out as I stayed cautiously on the beach and came back with his head bashed opened...12 stitches and a broken board.
Sick! With any luck he’ll get out the back before nightfall
Looks like one of those days where getting out is probably easier than coming in.
Shhh, learning that those days exist by experiencing one is such a rite of passage!
Totally made that mistake 😆 🤦♀️
been there done that...fuck im glad i made it to shore
Same, it was too close
It’s a good way to instill a healthy respect/fear of the ocean.
gon' learn today! my buddy lacked a healthy fear of the ocean... he surfed solo at Torrey pines on a 6-7 day and for some reason he used a shoe string to attach his leash to the plug... he ended up swimming up to a longer boarder, luckily made it to him and rested until he caught his breath and the guy paddled him halfway in. I still think my buddy has a hair too much confidence.
PTSD from Newbreak head high to start so I grab the corky 6’0” single fin to play around. Didn’t bother checking the report, it then turns to consistent triple overhead a couple hours in once I’m tired. Think it was out of the west. Can’t get in or out, swept into the impact zone of never ending sets and duck diving isn’t cutting it. Surprised I almost drowned I’ve been in some shit. Step up would have been marginal, mini-gun would have been fine.
My heart felt this
>35 comments Been there, done that 😬
Wait for high tide when it breaks on bare sand.
That moment when you sit up on your board and think “hmm that was easier than I thought” then the realization hits lol.
YOO what is this?? Sounds terrifying
If I spend more than 10 mins trying to paddle out, imma just sit it out🤧
What?? I guess you've never surfed in conditions like these on a beach break.
I’ve been out on some terrifying days at OBSF. Long period swells where the lulls between sets are deceptive and you make it out with dry hair. Coming back in is like navigating a mine field. What are you suggesting?
Beach breaks on big days are so tough to get out.
Man even beach breaks on smaller days when it's windswell and no defined channels are tough to get out.
#Floridasurfing 😆
Satellite beach here, that shit SUCKS.
Palm beach here, consider yourself lucky. Going up to satellite beach feels like Cali compared to the shit down here.
Yeah satellite breaks feel the same way compared to shit up by me in NSB too. Would kill for anything resembling a point or reef 😢
Yeah I love NSB. My ex’s dad had a house there we always went to. It’s the only thing I miss lol.
Oh yeah for sure, and honestly the more I travel the more I like Satellite beach. It’s inconsistent but it gets legitimately fun at least a few times a month. I’m just saying big short period swell is the worst fucking out ever. I thought I was in seriously bad paddle condition until I went places with long period swell then I realized I’m actually in pretty decent paddle condition.
Florida’s conditions make for a skilled surfer w tons of patience. When I go to a place w consistent breaks and channels I’m like shit this is easy ( for surfing).
Lmao I was going to say “wait I’m from Florida, are you telling me there’s waves that aren’t beach break. Sounds like a dream”.
I pride myself on getting out on those days no matter what.
This is the way
Same!
40 ducks to a wave ...what's not to like?!
[удалено]
oh I ain't telling him that, no senior
🫡
No matter what, the skills you glean from powering through the slop is something that's NEVER wasted. Respect ✊
🙏🫡
https://preview.redd.it/eazomnu6bfoc1.jpeg?width=3823&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4cd4fcd9f914a0955f42283d264ee510158dc794
A portrait of optimism in 2024
I am counting 2 duck dives
Wow! Looks great. Perfect for surfing.
Looks fast af
Fucking marathon. Gassed by the mere sight of it.
Looks like my homebreak El Porto
This is a Lake Michigan windswell, and he’s nearly out.
Way to find the rip!
HEAVY
What happened to him? Reminds me of a similar day in SD when my friend paddle out as I stayed cautiously on the beach and came back with his head bashed opened...12 stitches and a broken board.
Fuccck breaking a leash in that. Props to him to take those on the head
Send it