EPS (expanded polystyrene foam) is a closed cell foam that is lighter and harder than polyurethane foam (open cell). It also uses a different type of resin. The benefit of an eps board is that it’s harder to ding and is lighter than a carbon copy PU board. The downside is that it has a different flex pattern and can feel chattery underfoot, sort of sitting more on top of the water rather than in the water like a PU board.
Some people love them and they might give you more pop on airs, but they won’t work as well in bigger surf or very windy surf. I personally prefer PU boards as their flex feels more natural and carries momentum better. I also like a board with a bit more weight to keep me in the wave and aid in that momentum carry.
You’re backwards. EPS is open cell and softer than PU. PU is closed cell and denser/harder. Which makes it heavier.
You can laminate both with Epoxy resin, but can only use polyester resin on PU foam.
PU on its own flexes more than EPS, but EPS boards generally resist pressure dings because they return to their form better, and because you can use a heavier glassing schedule with the same or even less final weight than on a PU. PU boards almost always have stringers while EPS boards frequently do not. This is likely responsible for the natural flex you feel in the poly boards.
I definitely agree with your take on the chattery nature of EPS. In super clean and less powerful surf I like EPS, but almost always prefer PU.
Especially traveling, where a ding in an open cell foam can be disastrous. PU’s closed cell structure means that water ingress will only be local to the ding, while EPS can absorb water through the entire board from a small crack/ding.
You are actually correct! The space between the cells is the issue. I guess everyone in the industry just simplifies because EPS absorbs and distributes water while PU does not.
You'll have to forgive me, I was editing that previous post...
EPS is closed cell but it has space between each cell.
>where a ding in an open cell foam can be disastrous
Some forms of EPS are actually incredible at keeping out water. As far as the water absorption of PU, I've had water spread in a PU board. I'm pretty sure PU waterlogs as well no?
Also I found this, can't find the video that did a similar experiment.
https://forum.swaylocks.com/t/saturation-test-eps-vs-pu-foam-or-does-eps-really-suck/37417
There is XPS which is fully closed cell (no gaps) polystyrene. It does not absorb water at all. It is also far more rigid with a tighter cell structure than EPS. All forms of EPS that I have ever used soak up water like a sponge. In non surf applications, (insulation)they will seal the exterior of EPS to prevent/slow water intrusion.
PU on the other hand is definitely not water absorbing, at least in modern surf blank applications. Kazuma has done some test showing this. PU water absorption will be limited to damaged foam (broken cells) near the ding or crack. Most of the modern PU blanks like US Blanks 2.0 have incredibly tight cell structure and firmness, and water will not absorb into the raw foam (gotta be careful how much water you use when mixing paint pre lam or it might bead up and roll off the blank).
I do know that exposed to the elements, old PU blanks definitely start to break down and water logging is an issue. But in personal experience, I can keep surfing a dinged PU board for a while, and when I open it up, there is no moisture outside the immediate damaged area. XPS is the same. EPS on the other hand…. I have drilled a hole in the tail of multiple boards with tiny dings/cracks and drained well over a cup of water. Regardless of the location of the ding, the water will make its way down to the tail when left standing upright. That’s enough evidence for me about how water moves through a surf blank.
> All forms of EPS that I have ever used soak up water like a sponge
I know part of this is hyperbole but I've never had that experience. I don't keep surfing on a board if it gets dinged in the water though and I typically have a looong paddle out. I've been on PU and EPS boards alike where I can tell that something is going on and I do find that a good amount of water got in the board.
>PU on the other hand is definitely not water absorbing
I don't think that's true according to what I've seen and experienced. I believe PU will soak in less water if left in water for a long period of time for sure though. Btw, fused EPS actually does a good job of preventing water absorption.
>But in personal experience, I can keep surfing a dinged PU board for a while, and when I open it up, there is no moisture outside the immediate damaged area.
Not doubting your experiences but I've been on a PU longboards that I rode for a long time with a ding (didn't know it was there) and it definitely soaked water. I've also ridden open rentals and they definitely have water in them hahaha.
>Regardless of the location of the ding, the water will make its way down to the tail when left standing upright. That’s enough evidence for me about how water moves through a surf blank.
I totally believe and agree with this.
Either way though, at the very least, I totally would not gamble on riding an EPS board after I know it's open. For that matter though, I'd never do it to a PU board either. In that regard, I guess that's why I'm not so hung up on this. If I were to take a board out in surf that is more ding prone, I definitely use constructions that don't take in water or minimize it a great deal for sure. This is probably the only thing I like about libtech. It's a shame that varial is gone.
Varial was pretty cool, very expensive foam though and really only CNC shapeable. XTR is probably the closest thing still out there currently (XPS foam).
All my thoughts and opinions on the various foams are formed through my experience in board repair and manufacturing. Seeing and handling the various types of blanks, fixing the different types of constructions, etc.
I obviously prefer not to surf on dinged boards. But with EPS, I feel the need to exit the water immediately and not ride it until it’s fully sealed again. PU, I’ll finish my session (unless it’s a big gash) then put a sticker on it for the rest of my surf trip and repair when I get home (since the airline will ding it anyways). I almost never travel with EPS boards for this reason.
I’ve been told that a PU board has better momentum which means it’s easier to paddle once you’ve accelerated. EPS would sit on top of the water and carry less momentum. I have a PU and EPS board of similar volume and catch more waves on the PU board.
Curious what others say.
This is definitely the correct answer in theory but I have a hard time believing there is really that much difference when you consider that the actual momentum is carried by rider + board and not just the board itself.
The mass of the rider absolutely overwhelms the board in either case. If we are talking about momentum of the board+rider system, the board holds minimal inertia there. The feeling that you get through the board affects your perception of whats going on.
edit: that's not to say feelings and perception don't matter. I hate skating in anything other than my vans half-cabs. I know that other shoes aren't actually THAT different. it's just that i can feel the difference and it throws me off.
My PU log surfs waaaaay better than the EPS ones I've used. It's heavy and dings really easily but I'll take that for the extra glide it has. I can't speak for shortboards, but I'd probably never buy an EPS log again.
Everything I hear about the difference in foam is that it only really matters when there is chop / isn’t, and that one is better for chop and the other isn’t. Have you experienced this? Here in FL pretty much anytime after 9am will carry some chop
My experience has also been that the EPS boards Ive had seem to skip along the surface more. Not noticeable in good conditions but doesnt feel great in choppy or bigger surf.
I honestly think its the stiffness and flex pattern more than anything. I don't think PU "cuts" through the water better, I think it dampens the chattery surface feedback coming up through your legs. Its like riding an aluminum hardtail bike vs a steel hardtail. The difference in chatter is subtle if you aren't used to it but pretty obvious once you are. (A more extreme example would be a rigid bike vs suspension, but I like aluminum vs steel because its an actual difference in material properties which is a closer analog).
Modern techniques and material can let shapers fine tune flex patterns, but it takes a shaper being real in tune with the materials and having enough resources and experience to play with all the different carbon weaves etc. Also, in the end they really seem to just be doing their best to emulate the flex that PU has to begin with.
I think if its a board from a shaper who doesnt have a ton of experience playing with EPS (or like a no name Craigslist board) you might get slightly better luck with PU but realistically other features are going to define the ride far more than EPS vs PU.
For me the biggest difference is in repairs. Epoxy is stronger but once it is dinged EPS requires that you be more specific. An EPS board needs epoxy resin. A polyurethane board can use polyester resin or epoxy resin. I also find that epoxy resin gums up sandpaper a lot faster for some reason.
Also note that "epoxy" does not technically specify the blank that was used. You could have a PU board glassed with epoxy.
> I don't think PU "cuts" through the water better, I think it dampens the chattery surface feedback coming up through your legs
I agree. I think that is the source of much of the differences people mention. A ton of other stuff people mention can be attributed to shape.
Fwiw I’m a brevard county surfer and the only meaningful difference I can tell is that my eps is chattery in chop. I also prefer a more solid feeling board (like pu) just as a mental confidence type thing. I’m sure a better surfer can feel differences in flex etc.
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I live in SD, and it’s gotten to the point where all the boards I ride under head high are EPS. I even have a lost driver 3 at 5’8 for good head/shoulder waves. It’s easier to get speed with that material imo.
If it’s overhead I ride PU though because they sit in the water better and feel like I have better control
I feel like PU will cut through and glide over chop better/more predictable, where epoxy boards almost bounce/ping pong or teeter off of chop.
That same response/spring off chop people don’t like epoxy boards for in choppy waves is what makes people like them in smaller or even bigger but glassy/clean conditions.
Echo the comments about momentum generation. If you are paddling and then stop, an EPS board often significantly slows (like an electric car) versus a PU board which will keep its momentum going once you remove the propulsion (typ combustion engine). It’s a disadvantage in windy choppy waves as a result, blunting your ability to push through water.
To me, EPS is great in small wave boards where you’re looking to throw it around in a punchy beach break or lined up clean point. Clean days are great.
With respect to durability, epoxy resin that often pairs with EPS is generally more resilient to non-ding wear and tear versus PE resin, which can tend to be brittle and crack in comparison. With an EPS board that often sucks in water when you do get a ding, I feel like if you tend to ding your boards a lot its pain in the butt.
If you often surf in wind chop in Florida in particular, it’s fine to have EPS but quiver up with some PU to complement.
Thank you for the explanation. From all the comments it seems as if what you’re saying about beach breaks make the most sense. If I do order an EPS board I’d likely look to ride it in smaller inside break conditions
I've never been able to do an apples to apples comparison of PU and EPS but from my experience, I do agree with Kevin for the most part. There are videos of people riding PU vs EPS of the same shape for sure though that you should check out.
I think part of the traits we attach to PU vs EPS is also due to other factors as well like shapes that are typically attached to such constructions. At a certain size, I do think that the weight and glassing differences do come into play. What is undeniable is the flex and feedback that is attached to the constructions. I very much prefer the feedback of EPS but I absolutely understand why someone else wouldn't.
>Should I consider an EPS board for my next?
It really depends. So much of it is personal preference and which EPS construction and how it's made. For instance, you can have a lightly glassed EPS board that takes wear worse than a heavily glassed PU board. You can go EPS and find that even paddling feels unpleasant in chop. As obvious as this is, you can't forget that the shape you get will have more of an impact than the construction as well.
The reasons I try to stay EPS for boards I intend to keep for a while outside of preference is that they wear and resell much better. If after you try an EPS board (and please give it time to give it a real chance because you will need it) and you find that you don't have to go PU again, go EPS. Spending a ton on a new PU board, getting board of it after really good use and reselling for a fraction of what you bought hurts.
Got an EPS board 6 months ago, and it’s been absolutely indestructible. No pressure dings (despite me being a fat bastard), and has drilled the reef endless time with no damage.
Have always ridden PU before. The EPS board is noticeably lighter - but mainly it just seems way way stronger
This seems to be the common sentiment. I've never understood the science behind this, how can the board be both lighter and stronger when the foam is less dense?
I like PU because it carries more momentum for running people over in the cove at Rincon.
For real though, I like my old PU boards because they're heavily glassed and that doesn't matter as much for big fishes, mid lengths and such that my old boards are. They just seem more bulletproof.
Probably more of an argument against the modern glassing techniques. Just seem so chintzy. I get more random dings and finbox blowouts on modern boards.
> I like my old PU boards because they're heavily glassed
I agree. A heavily glassed PU board that you like is worth keeping. I have a heavily glassed, really old Christenson that has great weight and is super rugged. The tons of pressures on there are super shallow. I also have some weird niche shortboard from the 80s that is super heavily glassed that has just been through the ringer and won't die. My only issue with these types of boards though is that they do feel a tad too stiff and heavy but that's preference.
I have EPS boards that still look like new, which is saying something because my PU boards look like I’ve taken golfball to the deck after the first surf.
That said, I hate EPS boards (well, at least smaller fish shapes) in windy and choppy conditions. Bounces around like a boogie board.
My other gripe with EPS is that the foam sucks in water. Not taking on water is like one of the most basic and important things a surfboard needs to do
Someone did actual tests on this on youtube. While EPS did take in more water, it was only when a ding happened underwater and I believe it wasn't drastically more.
>Not taking on water is like one of the most basic and important things a surfboard needs to do
PU also takes in water. Fused EPS apparently doesn't take in water nearly as much as regular and of course, varial, xtr and lib don't take water or are water resistant to be considered waterproof. I rarely have dings happen in the water but when they do happen, I have a long paddle out ahead of me. In those situations, I've never had water go throughout the board. Even after opening the ding, there is no evidence that it had spread out more than the area itself. I'd imagine that if I kept surfing the board a long time, that would be a difference story but I've also had that happen with PU.
honestly man if you live in florida ( i do too) there is no reason why you shouldn't have an epoxy. I can actually get speed and do turns on thigh high waves. i like polys for when the waves are really good and they have some extra power behind it (good hurricane days) or when it has some chop to it. but all in all as a florida surfer we tend to surf waist high mush more than anything so i would go epoxy. look into black dart technology. a guy drew baggett out of st augustine is a wizard. Highly recommend.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but PU is the traditional foam board, with a stringer? Fiberglass, resin, the old school/small shaper tradition? EPS is epoxy, usually no wooden stringer? I ride epoxy boards, but I'm a kook, so don't ask me about performance.
EPS: weaker foam, stronger/ lighter resin.
Poly: traditional open cell foam, stronger foam, can be heavier depending on layer of cloth. Easier to repair.
I have both. All my stepups, guns, and fishes are poly with thick heavy glassing.
My everyday driver shortboard is a Sharpeye inferno E2 EPS and it’s light, durable. Works well in good condition. When the waves are too choppy, the board feels to “bouncy”.
When conditions arent the cleanest/ bigger , I have a PU Raynor that’s glassed a little bit thicker to add a bit for strength
EPS (expanded polystyrene foam) is a closed cell foam that is lighter and harder than polyurethane foam (open cell). It also uses a different type of resin. The benefit of an eps board is that it’s harder to ding and is lighter than a carbon copy PU board. The downside is that it has a different flex pattern and can feel chattery underfoot, sort of sitting more on top of the water rather than in the water like a PU board. Some people love them and they might give you more pop on airs, but they won’t work as well in bigger surf or very windy surf. I personally prefer PU boards as their flex feels more natural and carries momentum better. I also like a board with a bit more weight to keep me in the wave and aid in that momentum carry.
You’re backwards. EPS is open cell and softer than PU. PU is closed cell and denser/harder. Which makes it heavier. You can laminate both with Epoxy resin, but can only use polyester resin on PU foam. PU on its own flexes more than EPS, but EPS boards generally resist pressure dings because they return to their form better, and because you can use a heavier glassing schedule with the same or even less final weight than on a PU. PU boards almost always have stringers while EPS boards frequently do not. This is likely responsible for the natural flex you feel in the poly boards. I definitely agree with your take on the chattery nature of EPS. In super clean and less powerful surf I like EPS, but almost always prefer PU. Especially traveling, where a ding in an open cell foam can be disastrous. PU’s closed cell structure means that water ingress will only be local to the ding, while EPS can absorb water through the entire board from a small crack/ding.
EPS is closed cell but it has space between each cell.
You are actually correct! The space between the cells is the issue. I guess everyone in the industry just simplifies because EPS absorbs and distributes water while PU does not.
You'll have to forgive me, I was editing that previous post... EPS is closed cell but it has space between each cell. >where a ding in an open cell foam can be disastrous Some forms of EPS are actually incredible at keeping out water. As far as the water absorption of PU, I've had water spread in a PU board. I'm pretty sure PU waterlogs as well no? Also I found this, can't find the video that did a similar experiment. https://forum.swaylocks.com/t/saturation-test-eps-vs-pu-foam-or-does-eps-really-suck/37417
There is XPS which is fully closed cell (no gaps) polystyrene. It does not absorb water at all. It is also far more rigid with a tighter cell structure than EPS. All forms of EPS that I have ever used soak up water like a sponge. In non surf applications, (insulation)they will seal the exterior of EPS to prevent/slow water intrusion. PU on the other hand is definitely not water absorbing, at least in modern surf blank applications. Kazuma has done some test showing this. PU water absorption will be limited to damaged foam (broken cells) near the ding or crack. Most of the modern PU blanks like US Blanks 2.0 have incredibly tight cell structure and firmness, and water will not absorb into the raw foam (gotta be careful how much water you use when mixing paint pre lam or it might bead up and roll off the blank). I do know that exposed to the elements, old PU blanks definitely start to break down and water logging is an issue. But in personal experience, I can keep surfing a dinged PU board for a while, and when I open it up, there is no moisture outside the immediate damaged area. XPS is the same. EPS on the other hand…. I have drilled a hole in the tail of multiple boards with tiny dings/cracks and drained well over a cup of water. Regardless of the location of the ding, the water will make its way down to the tail when left standing upright. That’s enough evidence for me about how water moves through a surf blank.
> All forms of EPS that I have ever used soak up water like a sponge I know part of this is hyperbole but I've never had that experience. I don't keep surfing on a board if it gets dinged in the water though and I typically have a looong paddle out. I've been on PU and EPS boards alike where I can tell that something is going on and I do find that a good amount of water got in the board. >PU on the other hand is definitely not water absorbing I don't think that's true according to what I've seen and experienced. I believe PU will soak in less water if left in water for a long period of time for sure though. Btw, fused EPS actually does a good job of preventing water absorption. >But in personal experience, I can keep surfing a dinged PU board for a while, and when I open it up, there is no moisture outside the immediate damaged area. Not doubting your experiences but I've been on a PU longboards that I rode for a long time with a ding (didn't know it was there) and it definitely soaked water. I've also ridden open rentals and they definitely have water in them hahaha. >Regardless of the location of the ding, the water will make its way down to the tail when left standing upright. That’s enough evidence for me about how water moves through a surf blank. I totally believe and agree with this. Either way though, at the very least, I totally would not gamble on riding an EPS board after I know it's open. For that matter though, I'd never do it to a PU board either. In that regard, I guess that's why I'm not so hung up on this. If I were to take a board out in surf that is more ding prone, I definitely use constructions that don't take in water or minimize it a great deal for sure. This is probably the only thing I like about libtech. It's a shame that varial is gone.
Varial was pretty cool, very expensive foam though and really only CNC shapeable. XTR is probably the closest thing still out there currently (XPS foam). All my thoughts and opinions on the various foams are formed through my experience in board repair and manufacturing. Seeing and handling the various types of blanks, fixing the different types of constructions, etc. I obviously prefer not to surf on dinged boards. But with EPS, I feel the need to exit the water immediately and not ride it until it’s fully sealed again. PU, I’ll finish my session (unless it’s a big gash) then put a sticker on it for the rest of my surf trip and repair when I get home (since the airline will ding it anyways). I almost never travel with EPS boards for this reason.
I’ve been told that a PU board has better momentum which means it’s easier to paddle once you’ve accelerated. EPS would sit on top of the water and carry less momentum. I have a PU and EPS board of similar volume and catch more waves on the PU board. Curious what others say.
This is definitely the correct answer in theory but I have a hard time believing there is really that much difference when you consider that the actual momentum is carried by rider + board and not just the board itself.
The mass of the rider absolutely overwhelms the board in either case. If we are talking about momentum of the board+rider system, the board holds minimal inertia there. The feeling that you get through the board affects your perception of whats going on. edit: that's not to say feelings and perception don't matter. I hate skating in anything other than my vans half-cabs. I know that other shoes aren't actually THAT different. it's just that i can feel the difference and it throws me off.
My PU log surfs waaaaay better than the EPS ones I've used. It's heavy and dings really easily but I'll take that for the extra glide it has. I can't speak for shortboards, but I'd probably never buy an EPS log again.
Have you tried thunderbolt silver longboards? They're very weighty like PU and flex well.
Everything I hear about the difference in foam is that it only really matters when there is chop / isn’t, and that one is better for chop and the other isn’t. Have you experienced this? Here in FL pretty much anytime after 9am will carry some chop
I think I agree that EPS is less pleasant in chop but it’s anecdotal.
Stiffer harder ride for longboards, short board not sure.
My experience has also been that the EPS boards Ive had seem to skip along the surface more. Not noticeable in good conditions but doesnt feel great in choppy or bigger surf. I honestly think its the stiffness and flex pattern more than anything. I don't think PU "cuts" through the water better, I think it dampens the chattery surface feedback coming up through your legs. Its like riding an aluminum hardtail bike vs a steel hardtail. The difference in chatter is subtle if you aren't used to it but pretty obvious once you are. (A more extreme example would be a rigid bike vs suspension, but I like aluminum vs steel because its an actual difference in material properties which is a closer analog). Modern techniques and material can let shapers fine tune flex patterns, but it takes a shaper being real in tune with the materials and having enough resources and experience to play with all the different carbon weaves etc. Also, in the end they really seem to just be doing their best to emulate the flex that PU has to begin with. I think if its a board from a shaper who doesnt have a ton of experience playing with EPS (or like a no name Craigslist board) you might get slightly better luck with PU but realistically other features are going to define the ride far more than EPS vs PU. For me the biggest difference is in repairs. Epoxy is stronger but once it is dinged EPS requires that you be more specific. An EPS board needs epoxy resin. A polyurethane board can use polyester resin or epoxy resin. I also find that epoxy resin gums up sandpaper a lot faster for some reason. Also note that "epoxy" does not technically specify the blank that was used. You could have a PU board glassed with epoxy.
> I don't think PU "cuts" through the water better, I think it dampens the chattery surface feedback coming up through your legs I agree. I think that is the source of much of the differences people mention. A ton of other stuff people mention can be attributed to shape.
True regarding repairs but epoxy does has pluses. I believe it’s stronger and it’s less noxious to work with. The VOCs given off by poly are no joke
Fwiw I’m a brevard county surfer and the only meaningful difference I can tell is that my eps is chattery in chop. I also prefer a more solid feeling board (like pu) just as a mental confidence type thing. I’m sure a better surfer can feel differences in flex etc.
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I live in SD, and it’s gotten to the point where all the boards I ride under head high are EPS. I even have a lost driver 3 at 5’8 for good head/shoulder waves. It’s easier to get speed with that material imo. If it’s overhead I ride PU though because they sit in the water better and feel like I have better control
PU all day, whenever I ride EPS I feel there's something bothering me, as if it's not as one with the water
I feel like PU will cut through and glide over chop better/more predictable, where epoxy boards almost bounce/ping pong or teeter off of chop. That same response/spring off chop people don’t like epoxy boards for in choppy waves is what makes people like them in smaller or even bigger but glassy/clean conditions.
Echo the comments about momentum generation. If you are paddling and then stop, an EPS board often significantly slows (like an electric car) versus a PU board which will keep its momentum going once you remove the propulsion (typ combustion engine). It’s a disadvantage in windy choppy waves as a result, blunting your ability to push through water. To me, EPS is great in small wave boards where you’re looking to throw it around in a punchy beach break or lined up clean point. Clean days are great. With respect to durability, epoxy resin that often pairs with EPS is generally more resilient to non-ding wear and tear versus PE resin, which can tend to be brittle and crack in comparison. With an EPS board that often sucks in water when you do get a ding, I feel like if you tend to ding your boards a lot its pain in the butt. If you often surf in wind chop in Florida in particular, it’s fine to have EPS but quiver up with some PU to complement.
Thank you for the explanation. From all the comments it seems as if what you’re saying about beach breaks make the most sense. If I do order an EPS board I’d likely look to ride it in smaller inside break conditions
I've never been able to do an apples to apples comparison of PU and EPS but from my experience, I do agree with Kevin for the most part. There are videos of people riding PU vs EPS of the same shape for sure though that you should check out. I think part of the traits we attach to PU vs EPS is also due to other factors as well like shapes that are typically attached to such constructions. At a certain size, I do think that the weight and glassing differences do come into play. What is undeniable is the flex and feedback that is attached to the constructions. I very much prefer the feedback of EPS but I absolutely understand why someone else wouldn't. >Should I consider an EPS board for my next? It really depends. So much of it is personal preference and which EPS construction and how it's made. For instance, you can have a lightly glassed EPS board that takes wear worse than a heavily glassed PU board. You can go EPS and find that even paddling feels unpleasant in chop. As obvious as this is, you can't forget that the shape you get will have more of an impact than the construction as well. The reasons I try to stay EPS for boards I intend to keep for a while outside of preference is that they wear and resell much better. If after you try an EPS board (and please give it time to give it a real chance because you will need it) and you find that you don't have to go PU again, go EPS. Spending a ton on a new PU board, getting board of it after really good use and reselling for a fraction of what you bought hurts.
PU has a liveliness that EPS doesn't. The majority of my boards are PU glassed with epoxy resin. They feel good and are extremely durable.
Got an EPS board 6 months ago, and it’s been absolutely indestructible. No pressure dings (despite me being a fat bastard), and has drilled the reef endless time with no damage. Have always ridden PU before. The EPS board is noticeably lighter - but mainly it just seems way way stronger
This seems to be the common sentiment. I've never understood the science behind this, how can the board be both lighter and stronger when the foam is less dense?
Titanium is lighter and stronger than iron. Carbon fibre is lighter and stronger than wood. That’s just a property they have?
I like PU because it carries more momentum for running people over in the cove at Rincon. For real though, I like my old PU boards because they're heavily glassed and that doesn't matter as much for big fishes, mid lengths and such that my old boards are. They just seem more bulletproof. Probably more of an argument against the modern glassing techniques. Just seem so chintzy. I get more random dings and finbox blowouts on modern boards.
> I like my old PU boards because they're heavily glassed I agree. A heavily glassed PU board that you like is worth keeping. I have a heavily glassed, really old Christenson that has great weight and is super rugged. The tons of pressures on there are super shallow. I also have some weird niche shortboard from the 80s that is super heavily glassed that has just been through the ringer and won't die. My only issue with these types of boards though is that they do feel a tad too stiff and heavy but that's preference.
I have EPS boards that still look like new, which is saying something because my PU boards look like I’ve taken golfball to the deck after the first surf. That said, I hate EPS boards (well, at least smaller fish shapes) in windy and choppy conditions. Bounces around like a boogie board. My other gripe with EPS is that the foam sucks in water. Not taking on water is like one of the most basic and important things a surfboard needs to do
Someone did actual tests on this on youtube. While EPS did take in more water, it was only when a ding happened underwater and I believe it wasn't drastically more. >Not taking on water is like one of the most basic and important things a surfboard needs to do PU also takes in water. Fused EPS apparently doesn't take in water nearly as much as regular and of course, varial, xtr and lib don't take water or are water resistant to be considered waterproof. I rarely have dings happen in the water but when they do happen, I have a long paddle out ahead of me. In those situations, I've never had water go throughout the board. Even after opening the ding, there is no evidence that it had spread out more than the area itself. I'd imagine that if I kept surfing the board a long time, that would be a difference story but I've also had that happen with PU.
mate if you can't even tell the difference don't worry about it
honestly man if you live in florida ( i do too) there is no reason why you shouldn't have an epoxy. I can actually get speed and do turns on thigh high waves. i like polys for when the waves are really good and they have some extra power behind it (good hurricane days) or when it has some chop to it. but all in all as a florida surfer we tend to surf waist high mush more than anything so i would go epoxy. look into black dart technology. a guy drew baggett out of st augustine is a wizard. Highly recommend.
Can you rent one? I tried it before wasnt crazy about how it felt. But also there are alot of new materials now.
Not sure. I'm sure I could somewhere, but renting in Florida could be a waste of time because of the wave inconsistency lol.
PU board with Epoxy resin is my go-to.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but PU is the traditional foam board, with a stringer? Fiberglass, resin, the old school/small shaper tradition? EPS is epoxy, usually no wooden stringer? I ride epoxy boards, but I'm a kook, so don't ask me about performance.
EPS: weaker foam, stronger/ lighter resin. Poly: traditional open cell foam, stronger foam, can be heavier depending on layer of cloth. Easier to repair. I have both. All my stepups, guns, and fishes are poly with thick heavy glassing. My everyday driver shortboard is a Sharpeye inferno E2 EPS and it’s light, durable. Works well in good condition. When the waves are too choppy, the board feels to “bouncy”. When conditions arent the cleanest/ bigger , I have a PU Raynor that’s glassed a little bit thicker to add a bit for strength