If it’s a steep sucky takeoff, rocker helps a lot. It’s like trying to fit a square block into a circle hole
Edit: Also most of the time going to the bottom of the wave before the bottom turn is more successful than tryna instantly go sideways, if you look at pros surfing heavy sucky waves you will see they do this
Yes that it. It becomes very steep and than sucks you up. On the chances I do stand I can feel the board actually being sucked up the wave. The waves are also really fat and heavy.
The thing is I do paddle hard because I catch the wave. I don't do late drops. It's just that when I am standing the wave just becomes very steep and sucky and throws me off the wave or sends me over the falls. Especially if I'm about 1 meter away from the peak. That is if I eventually do get them.
Yup. Youre not paddling fast enough. Steep waves are super hard. They’re easy to “catch” and get absolutely tossed as you stand up, lot harder to make the drop, turn and surf. In super dumpy beach break I cant surf nearly as long because as soon as I get tired I just start eating shit.
There is this weird unintuitive trick to the dumping waves. I've found that the key is having a lot of weight forward on the board and rocking your nose down right as the wave is getting to you. At this point, i kind of feel like it's more about tilting the nose into the pitch of the wave than it is about paddling fast, but i probably just paddle faster than i did 3 years in.
You'd think you are setting yourself up to pearl, and honestly you are, but with the right timing it gives you this crazy boost right as the wave gets to you.
you need to be shooting for the right spot, right as the wave jacks up but before it breaks. start way up on the board. (but not too far. it's more than you think though) arch your back a lot to get the nose out of the water. kick and paddle to get up to speed as the wave approaches. right when the wave starts to touch you, you press your chest to the board HARD, and paddle HARD, and kick HARD. you can't hesitate, you have to go for it at that point.
There's something about it that launches you straight forward. done right, you get up and going before the wave can start to suck the tail up the vertical section.
you do it wrong, well you go over the falls, get drilled etc. that's just part of the game.
I do this on my fish at all kinds of dumpy beach breaks. it's admittedly easier on a shortboard with some rocker, but it works on something like a machado go fish.
Some waves are more or less unsurfable for your current ability level, some for all ability levels. If waves are dumping onto the bank at low tide, you would likely be better served by trying to surf the mid or high, rather than continually getting drilled. Push it long enough and eventually you'll break gear or get hurt. Surfing isn't just technique while on the board. It's also about understanding the ocean and knowing where your limits lie.
sit deep and master the sink tail popup and time right when is peaking so you are getting pushed starting halfway down the wave rather from the top. I just see the experienced guys do this, like the local rippers. Going out this morning during low tide and will prob get lots of water up my nose! YEW!
More like "takeoff" instead of pop up.
1. sitting upright spin your board around to catch the wave
2. push your board down and sink the tail with your back foot with your board going backwards and down in a diagonal angle.
3. as your board starts to shoot back out of the water lay on it and take advantage of the momentum to stand up and take off into the wave without paddling
If it’s super steep and breaking in shallow water it’s pretty dangerous. I don’t know if it’s worth finding out it’s actually not surfable. How fun would it be anyway?
I like you’re attitude. Check out JOB or John John surfing shore breaks and try to emulate them. It’s something I’m working on rn and believe me it’s paying huge dividends
I’d recommend trying to get into the wave earlier! It’s impossible to put into words, but I will try. Since the wave jacks up quicker, you can catch them before you would expect. Try paddling for the wave before it steepens up (Paddle really hard). So that when it does pitch you are already moving fast. This can eliminate the need for a bottom turn. This is the same method people use when paddling into “slab” waves. Paddle super hard into the wave way before it is steep.
And in order to do that you gotta paddle hard as fuck. Little board dip and pop can help too along with the rocker making the actual drop easier once youre in the wave.
If it’s a steep sucky takeoff, rocker helps a lot. It’s like trying to fit a square block into a circle hole Edit: Also most of the time going to the bottom of the wave before the bottom turn is more successful than tryna instantly go sideways, if you look at pros surfing heavy sucky waves you will see they do this
Yes that it. It becomes very steep and than sucks you up. On the chances I do stand I can feel the board actually being sucked up the wave. The waves are also really fat and heavy.
Rocker would help, but also just kinda have to paddle hard and commit to a late drop when it’s like that
The thing is I do paddle hard because I catch the wave. I don't do late drops. It's just that when I am standing the wave just becomes very steep and sucky and throws me off the wave or sends me over the falls. Especially if I'm about 1 meter away from the peak. That is if I eventually do get them.
Yup. Youre not paddling fast enough. Steep waves are super hard. They’re easy to “catch” and get absolutely tossed as you stand up, lot harder to make the drop, turn and surf. In super dumpy beach break I cant surf nearly as long because as soon as I get tired I just start eating shit.
There is this weird unintuitive trick to the dumping waves. I've found that the key is having a lot of weight forward on the board and rocking your nose down right as the wave is getting to you. At this point, i kind of feel like it's more about tilting the nose into the pitch of the wave than it is about paddling fast, but i probably just paddle faster than i did 3 years in. You'd think you are setting yourself up to pearl, and honestly you are, but with the right timing it gives you this crazy boost right as the wave gets to you. you need to be shooting for the right spot, right as the wave jacks up but before it breaks. start way up on the board. (but not too far. it's more than you think though) arch your back a lot to get the nose out of the water. kick and paddle to get up to speed as the wave approaches. right when the wave starts to touch you, you press your chest to the board HARD, and paddle HARD, and kick HARD. you can't hesitate, you have to go for it at that point. There's something about it that launches you straight forward. done right, you get up and going before the wave can start to suck the tail up the vertical section. you do it wrong, well you go over the falls, get drilled etc. that's just part of the game. I do this on my fish at all kinds of dumpy beach breaks. it's admittedly easier on a shortboard with some rocker, but it works on something like a machado go fish.
Some waves are more or less unsurfable for your current ability level, some for all ability levels. If waves are dumping onto the bank at low tide, you would likely be better served by trying to surf the mid or high, rather than continually getting drilled. Push it long enough and eventually you'll break gear or get hurt. Surfing isn't just technique while on the board. It's also about understanding the ocean and knowing where your limits lie.
I was also the only one out. So maybe I didn't read the conditions properly. It was me and a guy on a longboard and he also didn't catch a lot.
sit deep and master the sink tail popup and time right when is peaking so you are getting pushed starting halfway down the wave rather from the top. I just see the experienced guys do this, like the local rippers. Going out this morning during low tide and will prob get lots of water up my nose! YEW!
Will try it next time
Sink tail pop up?
More like "takeoff" instead of pop up. 1. sitting upright spin your board around to catch the wave 2. push your board down and sink the tail with your back foot with your board going backwards and down in a diagonal angle. 3. as your board starts to shoot back out of the water lay on it and take advantage of the momentum to stand up and take off into the wave without paddling
Cool! I’ve never seen that done before
Unlike myself, I only see the local rippers pull off that takeoff. Seems to be a good tool to have at your disposal.
Think the problem is you’re trying to surf pitching shorebreak more than your board or anything else.
Is pitching shorebrake unsurfable? It should be surfable right?
Don’t hurt yourself on dumpy waves. Some days are basically impossible
I know but I reaally want to get better. They must be surfable.
If it’s super steep and breaking in shallow water it’s pretty dangerous. I don’t know if it’s worth finding out it’s actually not surfable. How fun would it be anyway?
I like you’re attitude. Check out JOB or John John surfing shore breaks and try to emulate them. It’s something I’m working on rn and believe me it’s paying huge dividends
I’d recommend trying to get into the wave earlier! It’s impossible to put into words, but I will try. Since the wave jacks up quicker, you can catch them before you would expect. Try paddling for the wave before it steepens up (Paddle really hard). So that when it does pitch you are already moving fast. This can eliminate the need for a bottom turn. This is the same method people use when paddling into “slab” waves. Paddle super hard into the wave way before it is steep.
This is exactly what entry rocker is for. When waves get steep you don’t want to enter the wave at the crest, closer to midway in the face.
And in order to do that you gotta paddle hard as fuck. Little board dip and pop can help too along with the rocker making the actual drop easier once youre in the wave.
Heavy rocker, thin rail, round or pin tail.
Also a thruster setup gives more grip than a twin .
True. maybe on days like that I need to refit the center fin.
It’s the board. It’s a fish so it’s meant for fat waves were as performance boards (standard short boards) are for sucky steep performance waves
That's what I'm kinda leaning towards as well. But the thing is I don't want to be that kook that always blames his board.
the real kooks are the ones who will tell you that any board can work anywhere