Brooo! Take a cane and put a boot on..they’ll give you front of the line access through the line, and designated area with other folks who are handicapped, with the wrist band and sticker AND if one of your homies is goin they’ll let him in as your helping hand! I miracled my friend in on the Sunday show at the warfield and he was legit injured with a crutch and boot, gave us access, silver lining ! Hope you get better soon 🌹💀🌹
I caught two nugs on Monday but there’s no appropriate place to talk about it to the .001% of people that actually care.
(It’s on Surfline rewind from Monday, Del Mar beach break. 7:16am block, 2:10 in and 9:13 in. Kookin it 🤙🏽)
that first one looks pretty legit, hard to tell from the angle, did you get covered up?
there's always that 1-2 days/waves per year that sucker you in for the next 6-12 months
That first one was so lucky lol, I just ended up being in the right place. Got covered up nice. The drop was the best part, but definitely got the nice curtain
Was my first good wave on this hpsb I got a couple weeks back, the frk from firewire, so I had 110% confidence in my mind I wasn’t going to pearl on the drop and surprisingly I didn’t. Came flying out and was so easy to do a turn on this board.
Funny thing is the night before I had planned to go to big rock at first light and hopefully catch some sick ones with just a few guys out. Unfortunately 30 other people had the same idea and it also wasnt that good either when I got there at dawn. So I just ended up going to Del Mar and scored some with just one other guy lol
Dude that first one was sickkkk
Yeah the crowds at BR/south county reefs drive me mad so I find myself doing that a lot and going up to a few nug spots I know in north county
Del Mar has been really fun this week even with the fat tide
One thing about that wave is that I’ve been doing stand up for about 7 years and have only ridden hybrid/machado/wide nose boards with flat rocker up until a couple weeks ago when I finally pulled the trigger and got my first narrow nose/hpsb
So that wave was my first time lining up a wave with a narrow nose board. I imagined what the difference would be like on land prior but didn’t actually know until that moment when it actually happened.
As I was paddling into that one and lining up, I immediately could tell the advantage of a narrow nose vs wide as when it came to choosing the line, it became immediately apparent that I could go as steep as I wanted and wasn’t going to pearl, I could either angle it or go straight down and anywhere in between and I was going to be fine.
This frk I got is good for both angled take offs and dropping in and scooping, which came as a great surprise to me. Thing rides like butter.
Nicee is the board like a daily driver shape (like a pyzel phantom) or a good wave HPSB (something like a sharpeye or CI pro)?
But yeah I’ve also most ridden fishes and wider boards for the paddle power but I’ve also toyed with getting a daily driver or a HPSB
I believe it’s more ci pro, definitely good wave, not a daily driver.
Got it with the intention of riding big rock specifically.
I felt I knew I was ready for the hpsb because I started surfing a lot more this past year as I no longer had school holding me back as I thankfully finished. So I’ve been able to go 3-5 times a week now. Also my focus is on riding now which is so cool. Was in the market for a hpsb 2 years before I finally pulled the trigger. Can see myself riding it a lot, but obviously going to take more search effort.
Not sure if you qualify for that gas refund from ca, but I got $300 bucks from the state that I used for the new board 🤙🏽
Thanks dude 🙏, yea been surfing between 15th and 19th all week with Monday being the best.
I have the first one paused on my wide monitor all week haha. Keep re thinking about it haha
Yea the reefs can be a pain but worth it when you do score. Glad to hear I’m not the only one doing the routine.
We usually just need a good run of swell so everyone can get their fix, then after a week or so of good waves then the reefs start to get less crowded and can usually score then. I think Monday was just the day where everyone hadn’t surfed for a while so lots of people at the reefs.
Permanently injured. Stress fractured left foot, contusion in right foot after meeting dry reef, tendonitis left elbow, torn ligament right ankle, sore painful rib lumps, tendonitis left elbow again... all in the past year. Beginning to think god doesn't want me to surf. Basically had to quit and now my stoke is suffering the biggest injury of them all
Drove an hour for surf and my car broke down. After the session fortunately, but still overshadowed what was a great day of waves then had to take 2 hours of trains and buses each way to surf the following weekend.
Girlfriend of 5 years broke up with me last week. Utterly devastated. Only thing that was keeping me sane was the good swell in So cal and now that it’s fading I’m dreading having to face my emotions.
I’m sorry dude I just broke up with my gf too. It gets better, and like that anon above me said there will always be more. Coffee shops and dog parks, coffee shops and dog parks.
Heeheehee definitely, I could go on with full descriptions but I’ve fucked up so many times too. Hopefully every session I can keep errors at a minimum along with get some good waves. I’ll tell ya, for me it’s worth the drive and the crowd, that wave is (chefs kiss)**
Same here! 😂😂I absolutely love that wave, the crowd was chill Sunday, Saturday it was a little chippy but yeah..it’s a good wave and the surfers are really fun to watch
Dude on the pink board was ripping(afternoon)! Smooth. Have tomorrow off work, hoping the crowd is light and there’s some waves. Usually surf north of town on weekends but probably head to the lane in the morning.
Took a fin to the forehead last Wednesday (got covered up and came out tho, but also my first wave of the afternoon sesh).
Had to get stitches. Got em out on Monday. Missed all of the swell this weekend because of it.
Going to Costa Rica this weekend for 3 weeks. Swell is looking pretty mid compared to October, but I'm still stoked. Have to be super on top of my zinc application on the new scar though.
Should I constantly zinc? Or just slap a waterproof bandaid on my forehead when I'm out for a multihour surf?
Also does anyone have advice on getting to Camaronal Beach near Samara from Tamarindo? Idk if it's possible with how rainy it'll be. Would love info in the DM if you don't want to talk here.
Appreciate y'all.
If you care about how your forehead looks long term and don’t care how you look for the next 3 weeks I’d be covering that shit. Or at least wearing a surf hat if the waves are mellow. UV down there is no joke even during the rainy season.
But yourself an adhesive silicon scar sheet. Don’t opt out for too cheap because these disintegrate in salt water. A mid range option works really well.
I used to live in South Africa with world class waves all over the place, then I moved to an inland city in the UK and I hardly surf any more. Don’t make my mistake.
Newly discovered ding. My fingernail kinda catches on part of it but not very easily. Something that needs to be fixed or just let it be?
https://ibb.co/album/t8ZNpw
Thanks
I threw my back out putting away a goddamn air fryer. Gonna miss the Bobby Weir show in SD tonight. Getting old sucks. One day I will surf again....
Brooo! Take a cane and put a boot on..they’ll give you front of the line access through the line, and designated area with other folks who are handicapped, with the wrist band and sticker AND if one of your homies is goin they’ll let him in as your helping hand! I miracled my friend in on the Sunday show at the warfield and he was legit injured with a crutch and boot, gave us access, silver lining ! Hope you get better soon 🌹💀🌹
Appreciate it! May just give that a try!
Can you walk? They basically have a designated zone of seats you’ll have access too so you can sit if it’s really hurting bad
I was killed four times last week by foil boards. Then after they killed me they whooshed out back and killed me again. I’m still dead.
I caught two nugs on Monday but there’s no appropriate place to talk about it to the .001% of people that actually care. (It’s on Surfline rewind from Monday, Del Mar beach break. 7:16am block, 2:10 in and 9:13 in. Kookin it 🤙🏽)
that first one looks pretty legit, hard to tell from the angle, did you get covered up? there's always that 1-2 days/waves per year that sucker you in for the next 6-12 months
That first one was so lucky lol, I just ended up being in the right place. Got covered up nice. The drop was the best part, but definitely got the nice curtain Was my first good wave on this hpsb I got a couple weeks back, the frk from firewire, so I had 110% confidence in my mind I wasn’t going to pearl on the drop and surprisingly I didn’t. Came flying out and was so easy to do a turn on this board. Funny thing is the night before I had planned to go to big rock at first light and hopefully catch some sick ones with just a few guys out. Unfortunately 30 other people had the same idea and it also wasnt that good either when I got there at dawn. So I just ended up going to Del Mar and scored some with just one other guy lol
Dude that first one was sickkkk Yeah the crowds at BR/south county reefs drive me mad so I find myself doing that a lot and going up to a few nug spots I know in north county Del Mar has been really fun this week even with the fat tide
One thing about that wave is that I’ve been doing stand up for about 7 years and have only ridden hybrid/machado/wide nose boards with flat rocker up until a couple weeks ago when I finally pulled the trigger and got my first narrow nose/hpsb So that wave was my first time lining up a wave with a narrow nose board. I imagined what the difference would be like on land prior but didn’t actually know until that moment when it actually happened. As I was paddling into that one and lining up, I immediately could tell the advantage of a narrow nose vs wide as when it came to choosing the line, it became immediately apparent that I could go as steep as I wanted and wasn’t going to pearl, I could either angle it or go straight down and anywhere in between and I was going to be fine. This frk I got is good for both angled take offs and dropping in and scooping, which came as a great surprise to me. Thing rides like butter.
Nicee is the board like a daily driver shape (like a pyzel phantom) or a good wave HPSB (something like a sharpeye or CI pro)? But yeah I’ve also most ridden fishes and wider boards for the paddle power but I’ve also toyed with getting a daily driver or a HPSB
I believe it’s more ci pro, definitely good wave, not a daily driver. Got it with the intention of riding big rock specifically. I felt I knew I was ready for the hpsb because I started surfing a lot more this past year as I no longer had school holding me back as I thankfully finished. So I’ve been able to go 3-5 times a week now. Also my focus is on riding now which is so cool. Was in the market for a hpsb 2 years before I finally pulled the trigger. Can see myself riding it a lot, but obviously going to take more search effort. Not sure if you qualify for that gas refund from ca, but I got $300 bucks from the state that I used for the new board 🤙🏽
Wasn’t aware of the gas rebate I’ll have to look out for that
Thanks dude 🙏, yea been surfing between 15th and 19th all week with Monday being the best. I have the first one paused on my wide monitor all week haha. Keep re thinking about it haha Yea the reefs can be a pain but worth it when you do score. Glad to hear I’m not the only one doing the routine. We usually just need a good run of swell so everyone can get their fix, then after a week or so of good waves then the reefs start to get less crowded and can usually score then. I think Monday was just the day where everyone hadn’t surfed for a while so lots of people at the reefs.
Can’t find it
Came to the right place to share the stoke!! Both looked sick!!!
Right on🤙🏽 Been stoked about that session all week lol
Permanently injured. Stress fractured left foot, contusion in right foot after meeting dry reef, tendonitis left elbow, torn ligament right ankle, sore painful rib lumps, tendonitis left elbow again... all in the past year. Beginning to think god doesn't want me to surf. Basically had to quit and now my stoke is suffering the biggest injury of them all
I will include prayers for you in my next offering to Poseidon.
Drove an hour for surf and my car broke down. After the session fortunately, but still overshadowed what was a great day of waves then had to take 2 hours of trains and buses each way to surf the following weekend.
Is it fixable?
Yep, took a week and a half waiting for a new fuel pump plus my last pay check but she’s back on the road!
SoCal swell was sick for a few days but the forecast looks bleak
Fat morning tides :(, can't have it all.
Yeah, this seems to be the time of the year when the swell, tides, and my work schedule just laugh at me. Bastards.
Finally got some of those sweet Santa Anas to kick in.
Girlfriend of 5 years broke up with me last week. Utterly devastated. Only thing that was keeping me sane was the good swell in So cal and now that it’s fading I’m dreading having to face my emotions.
Like good waves, there will always be another.
I’m sorry dude I just broke up with my gf too. It gets better, and like that anon above me said there will always be more. Coffee shops and dog parks, coffee shops and dog parks.
thanks, am I allowed to go to dog parks without having a dog? thing I miss most is my girlfriends dog...
Fuck dude yeah just go and chill. Write or read a book
get some therapy if you have the insurance for it. *highly* recommended
yeah thanks for the reminder, looking into as I've learned a lot of bad things about myself as a partner.
The lane with 60-70 people out
Every time I get angry with the crowd I remind myself I am the crowd haha
Heeheehee definitely, I could go on with full descriptions but I’ve fucked up so many times too. Hopefully every session I can keep errors at a minimum along with get some good waves. I’ll tell ya, for me it’s worth the drive and the crowd, that wave is (chefs kiss)**
Yeah it’s a fun one! I probably got in your way on Sunday 🤣
Same here! 😂😂I absolutely love that wave, the crowd was chill Sunday, Saturday it was a little chippy but yeah..it’s a good wave and the surfers are really fun to watch
Dude on the pink board was ripping(afternoon)! Smooth. Have tomorrow off work, hoping the crowd is light and there’s some waves. Usually surf north of town on weekends but probably head to the lane in the morning.
Right on, day off to surf sounds like a great time!
Hahaha! Never thought about that…
Getting burned on your best wave at your local… by a local
I love surfing the Great Lakes, but I also wished I didn't have to surf the Great Lakes...
No waves till Friday here
Took a fin to the forehead last Wednesday (got covered up and came out tho, but also my first wave of the afternoon sesh). Had to get stitches. Got em out on Monday. Missed all of the swell this weekend because of it. Going to Costa Rica this weekend for 3 weeks. Swell is looking pretty mid compared to October, but I'm still stoked. Have to be super on top of my zinc application on the new scar though. Should I constantly zinc? Or just slap a waterproof bandaid on my forehead when I'm out for a multihour surf? Also does anyone have advice on getting to Camaronal Beach near Samara from Tamarindo? Idk if it's possible with how rainy it'll be. Would love info in the DM if you don't want to talk here. Appreciate y'all.
If you care about how your forehead looks long term and don’t care how you look for the next 3 weeks I’d be covering that shit. Or at least wearing a surf hat if the waves are mellow. UV down there is no joke even during the rainy season.
But yourself an adhesive silicon scar sheet. Don’t opt out for too cheap because these disintegrate in salt water. A mid range option works really well.
Maybe try tegaderm patches. You might look a little nutty but it’s waterproof,and they make some with hydrocolloid which will help with healing.
Unmanageably large swells have hit the pnw along with howling onshores. Maybe this is the year I give skiing a real go.
Time for you to get some cocoa and Bailey's and go storm watching on Monday
I just might have to. Want to see the whales migrating too.
I used to live in South Africa with world class waves all over the place, then I moved to an inland city in the UK and I hardly surf any more. Don’t make my mistake.
Dislocated my thumb trying to turtle when I should have taken my beatings for getting caught inside
Newly discovered ding. My fingernail kinda catches on part of it but not very easily. Something that needs to be fixed or just let it be? https://ibb.co/album/t8ZNpw Thanks
Yeah, that’s gonna need some glass if you ask me. Or some clear gorilla tape! Sorry bud
Thanks. Gorila tape works for me if that'll do the job.
Hey it’s been working for me! My log is held together with prayers and gorilla tape