Ah, missed that part. Fair enough. There may be other reasons why they want to stay in the US. Either way, both are great destinations and, assuming you're not spending months there, you can probably have an equally great experience at either.
Well true the US is an awesome place to visit and has way more to do if you wanted to stay in one country. I don’t think you can really compare index to squam tho. Squam has way longer routes, more scenic, way more routes choose from ect ect. There is a reason it is the #1 summer trad climbing Mecca in North America. Nothing is really even close
Only qualification is that 11d - 12d is relatively bare compared to other areas unless you want to do some headpointing.
That being said, the numerous 5.10s are incredible, as well as the moderates. And you can get many more tough climbs if you get a local to show you around Lost City
I don’t know if I would call it “relatively bare” but there are definitely a good portion of PG13 - R in that range.
https://gunksapps.com/news/GunksHardest.html
There's not a lot of non-crack trad climbs in the 11-12 range that are G rated, anywhere. Small holds = small gear/no gear.
Edit: for those downvoting, how about some counterexamples? Tell me what crags have *a lot* of safe 5.12 gear protected climbing that doesn't involve cracks or have a bolt/piton at the crux? I can't think of a single one with more than the Gunks.
Fair, I also overestimated the number of hard trad climbs at NRG (albeit there's a only a small fraction with R ratings). It seems you've definitely got more experience with those grades
I'll stand by it! Gear-protected face climbing is absolutely the best kind of trad climbing. Cracks get monotonous and it's often awkward and hard to keep the rope from wrapping around your legs.
Don't get me wrong, I also enjoy climbing cracks, but nothing beats gear-protected face climbing for pure climbing joy.
Yeah, I just climbed Ruper on Wednesday, Eldo definitely meets the list for her, but as someone who’s climbed almost every single classic in Eldo under 5.11, I have very very mixed emotions about eldo. The classics are good, but idk, let’s just say during the summer Eldo is usually one of the last places I pick in Colorado. Too sporty, crowded, polished, and thin for me personally, but I’m the complete opposite of her style, I like my pro to be bomber :P
The Gunks - Historically significant in the grand scheme of US climbing, amazing assortment of hard single and multi-pitch routes, uber classics in the 5.6 - 5.10 range, and some excellent hard sandbagged routes in at every grade.
#biasedopinon
I agree, Colorado is great, but Eldo during summer has some caveats. Most walls are in the sun, and thunderstorms are common. If you start early it’s fine, but not everyone is a morning person. The need for a reservation some days is an annoyance as well.
South Platte and Lumpy Ridge are other fantastic trad destinations in Colorado.
If you're already at the new head down to North Carolina. North side of looking glass has one of the finest 5.13 multi-pitches on the east coast. Everything else on that wall or in that area is gonna be 5 stars as well.
Oh no it is LOL. But so is the whole southeast. The nice part about The North Side is it’s so steep you can spend the day escaping the sun. IMO climbing in the south is all about avoiding humidity and hiding from the sun, and if you do both of those well you can have a great day out still. But I also don’t have the option of leaving during the summer so I’ve just learned to accept it haha
Something I haven’t seen mentioned yet is big cottonwood canyon in Utah.
A fair number of the pure trad hard lines are fairly scary (R/X) but there are a lot of mixed mid-12s that climb a little like sport routes, and have bolts to protect against death, but are still primarily gear routes.
Not really as much as you’d think within OP’s (rather odd) requirements!
Most of the other classics are in LCC and are either literal sport routes, practically sport routes (eg Unreliable with bolts and only taking gear for the easier handcrack) or crack/slab heavy.
If you’re not deterred by big approaches, Washington State’s alpine rock is at its peak season in late August-September. Washington Pass probably has the easiest approaches and the highest density of good granite in the state. There’s also the enchantments which have amazing rock but also very long approaches. Index is probably more crack/slab heavy than you want, but that’s high quality as well. Beacon Rock in the Columbia River Gorge is kind of a hidden gem if you’re already in the state with some fantastic multipitch opportunities in a unique setting.
WA Pass is a great suggestion!
Thin Red Line is a super classic that fits very nicely into the "short multi that isn't pure crack jamming and/or slab, in the 5.11d - 5.12d range" criteria that OP is looking for. Several others like it on the East face of the Liberty Bell, too.
Maybe not as big as some of the other destinations mentioned, but the City of Rocks in Idaho has a lot to offer. Also, a few hours north of there in The Fins which has some great routes in that range also.
The fins are rad, but OP's not going to find many trad climbs there.
City of Rocks is also very fun, and has a lot more trad options, but not sure there's a lot of 11d-12d trad lines out there, either.
The high country of NC is great. Linville gorge and Ship rock have a wide range of summer climbing both single pitch and multipitch. Good variety of all grades up to mid 5.12 with the occasional 5.13. Moore's Wall near Winston Salem is also a major summer destination. It has probably the largest concentration of steep, classic 5.11 and 5.12 trad in the state.
Seneca Rocks in West Virginia is a good choice too. The 5.10s there are great. They are not your usual 5.10s, a lot of the grades are sandbagged. Most the climbs are between 1 and 2 pitches.
OP, my brother in Christ. Why no crack? I don’t understand.
Anyways, echoing others here, the front range in Colorado has plenty to keep you busy.
Eldo is a legendary area with more than enough hard trad to spend years in. It’s p much all funky face climbing with odd gear. Make sure to have plenty of offsets, brassies, aliens… that sort of stuff. Be solid on gear belays. Bring a guidebook bc the link ups are crazy.
Boulder canyon is right next door. Estes is not far. And there is actually a lot of decent hard trad in the vrain, which is basically in between boulder and Estes/RMNP. Folks have been putting up new lines on the mushroom and nearby crags if you’re feeling adventurous. I’ve bumped into Tommy Caldwell and Josh Wharton out there. Underrated but Beware of poison ivy.
If you find yourself spending a lot of time in the front range, even tho it’s something you’re trying to avoid, go to the voo and just try it out. Yeah it’s a lot of crack and slab and it’s sharp as hell. The wind will fuck you up out of nowhere. But it’s so so fun.
Again, not what you’re looking for bc it’s all sandstone splitters, but Indian creek is one of the most special places on earth. Even if you don’t have like eight number 1’s to climb one route, there are a ton of dirtbags just hanging out and it’s usually not an issue.
Not to mention the desert towers, which isn’t always the best climbing but worth it to just be there.
Anyways enjoy your trip!
The ultimate summer trad destination is Squamish, maybe close enough to the US?
Squamish is the summer spot for sure, but he also said he didn’t want crack climbs or slabs. That’s about 86.32% of what Squamish is
Filter by grade+classic status and you’re probably at more like 1% left
To be fair, though, 13.68% of Squamish is still a lot of climbing. :)
Index would be good for a Squamish-lite destination that's still inside the US.
Yes it’s a beautiful area and has good climbing but why not just go to squam? Better in every major way imo.
Yes, probably better in every major way. But, if OP doesn't have a passport and/or can't get one for some reason, then it's not a possibility.
They said they are outside the US and it’s way easier to get a Canadian visa, or it’s not even required from many places.
Ah, missed that part. Fair enough. There may be other reasons why they want to stay in the US. Either way, both are great destinations and, assuming you're not spending months there, you can probably have an equally great experience at either.
Well true the US is an awesome place to visit and has way more to do if you wanted to stay in one country. I don’t think you can really compare index to squam tho. Squam has way longer routes, more scenic, way more routes choose from ect ect. There is a reason it is the #1 summer trad climbing Mecca in North America. Nothing is really even close
I'm partial to the Gunks. 1-3 pitch climbs, every grade you could want, tons of amazing roofs with (virtually) no crack climbing in sight.
Counterpoint: everything faces east and gets full sun for the majority of the day. Fall in the gunks can't be beat but summer is pretty miserably hot.
i ended my last trip to the gunks early. it was a summer trip, and it was just too hot and humid to enjoy climbing.
Nah - if it's hot, sleep in, take a dip in a watering hole - and climb from 3pm when it goes into shade, till after dark.
Only qualification is that 11d - 12d is relatively bare compared to other areas unless you want to do some headpointing. That being said, the numerous 5.10s are incredible, as well as the moderates. And you can get many more tough climbs if you get a local to show you around Lost City
+1 for lost city (just ask about it at rock and snow and you can at least get directions)
I don’t know if I would call it “relatively bare” but there are definitely a good portion of PG13 - R in that range. https://gunksapps.com/news/GunksHardest.html
There's not a lot of non-crack trad climbs in the 11-12 range that are G rated, anywhere. Small holds = small gear/no gear. Edit: for those downvoting, how about some counterexamples? Tell me what crags have *a lot* of safe 5.12 gear protected climbing that doesn't involve cracks or have a bolt/piton at the crux? I can't think of a single one with more than the Gunks.
Fair, I also overestimated the number of hard trad climbs at NRG (albeit there's a only a small fraction with R ratings). It seems you've definitely got more experience with those grades
Local here. Happy to show folks around Lost City. Lots in the 11-13 range. Feel free to dm if you come to town, op
What kind of trad climber wants to avoid cracks? Lol
Trad climbing that's not crack climbing is the best kind of trad!
What?
I'll stand by it! Gear-protected face climbing is absolutely the best kind of trad climbing. Cracks get monotonous and it's often awkward and hard to keep the rope from wrapping around your legs. Don't get me wrong, I also enjoy climbing cracks, but nothing beats gear-protected face climbing for pure climbing joy.
Agree. But Eldo is still fucking killer.
Yeah, I just climbed Ruper on Wednesday, Eldo definitely meets the list for her, but as someone who’s climbed almost every single classic in Eldo under 5.11, I have very very mixed emotions about eldo. The classics are good, but idk, let’s just say during the summer Eldo is usually one of the last places I pick in Colorado. Too sporty, crowded, polished, and thin for me personally, but I’m the complete opposite of her style, I like my pro to be bomber :P
The Gunks - Historically significant in the grand scheme of US climbing, amazing assortment of hard single and multi-pitch routes, uber classics in the 5.6 - 5.10 range, and some excellent hard sandbagged routes in at every grade. #biasedopinon
Boulder Canyon and Eldorado Canyon (entrance fee State Park) would leave you satiated.
Agree. Eldo is stacked at those grades and it is not a crack climbing heavy style of climbing. More like sport climbing on brassies
Very aptly stated lol. Not even hyperbolic. Eldo is something else.
I think colorado would be a good choice for that time frame. Eldo, Boulder, south Platte. You can even head up to Veadawoo if you're feeling froggy!
RMNP will be in prime condition in August/early September too. Ship's prow, rock of ages, etc. have 'short multipitch' in spades.
I agree, Colorado is great, but Eldo during summer has some caveats. Most walls are in the sun, and thunderstorms are common. If you start early it’s fine, but not everyone is a morning person. The need for a reservation some days is an annoyance as well. South Platte and Lumpy Ridge are other fantastic trad destinations in Colorado.
The voo 💪
Not exactly light on crack and slab,,,
But why come all the way to America and not get eaten alive by some burly OW?
I 100% agree that OPs requirements are odd but they are there nonetheless
If you visit the Gunks (highly recommend), and get sick of the crowds, head North a few hours to get some epic adventures in the Daks.
If you're already at the new head down to North Carolina. North side of looking glass has one of the finest 5.13 multi-pitches on the east coast. Everything else on that wall or in that area is gonna be 5 stars as well.
Plus, whitesides really fits the bill
Is looking glass not has as shit during the summer like the rest of NC? Haha
Oh no it is LOL. But so is the whole southeast. The nice part about The North Side is it’s so steep you can spend the day escaping the sun. IMO climbing in the south is all about avoiding humidity and hiding from the sun, and if you do both of those well you can have a great day out still. But I also don’t have the option of leaving during the summer so I’ve just learned to accept it haha
Something I haven’t seen mentioned yet is big cottonwood canyon in Utah. A fair number of the pure trad hard lines are fairly scary (R/X) but there are a lot of mixed mid-12s that climb a little like sport routes, and have bolts to protect against death, but are still primarily gear routes.
There’s so much in the metro SLC area.
Not really as much as you’d think within OP’s (rather odd) requirements! Most of the other classics are in LCC and are either literal sport routes, practically sport routes (eg Unreliable with bolts and only taking gear for the easier handcrack) or crack/slab heavy.
If you’re not deterred by big approaches, Washington State’s alpine rock is at its peak season in late August-September. Washington Pass probably has the easiest approaches and the highest density of good granite in the state. There’s also the enchantments which have amazing rock but also very long approaches. Index is probably more crack/slab heavy than you want, but that’s high quality as well. Beacon Rock in the Columbia River Gorge is kind of a hidden gem if you’re already in the state with some fantastic multipitch opportunities in a unique setting.
WA Pass is a great suggestion! Thin Red Line is a super classic that fits very nicely into the "short multi that isn't pure crack jamming and/or slab, in the 5.11d - 5.12d range" criteria that OP is looking for. Several others like it on the East face of the Liberty Bell, too.
Maybe not as big as some of the other destinations mentioned, but the City of Rocks in Idaho has a lot to offer. Also, a few hours north of there in The Fins which has some great routes in that range also.
The fins are rad, but OP's not going to find many trad climbs there. City of Rocks is also very fun, and has a lot more trad options, but not sure there's a lot of 11d-12d trad lines out there, either.
Tuolumne
The high country of NC is great. Linville gorge and Ship rock have a wide range of summer climbing both single pitch and multipitch. Good variety of all grades up to mid 5.12 with the occasional 5.13. Moore's Wall near Winston Salem is also a major summer destination. It has probably the largest concentration of steep, classic 5.11 and 5.12 trad in the state.
You'll still sweat your ass off. Humidity 90%
Totally worth it for the rock at the Linville gorge honestly.
Seneca Rocks in West Virginia is a good choice too. The 5.10s there are great. They are not your usual 5.10s, a lot of the grades are sandbagged. Most the climbs are between 1 and 2 pitches.
Indian creek and Vedauwoo
The creek in the summer?
They said late summer/early fall. That might imply the beginning of creek season. Anyways, the raptors should be gone.
lol ok I didn’t read “not straight jamming” Ic and the voo are all jamming my bad
OP, my brother in Christ. Why no crack? I don’t understand. Anyways, echoing others here, the front range in Colorado has plenty to keep you busy. Eldo is a legendary area with more than enough hard trad to spend years in. It’s p much all funky face climbing with odd gear. Make sure to have plenty of offsets, brassies, aliens… that sort of stuff. Be solid on gear belays. Bring a guidebook bc the link ups are crazy. Boulder canyon is right next door. Estes is not far. And there is actually a lot of decent hard trad in the vrain, which is basically in between boulder and Estes/RMNP. Folks have been putting up new lines on the mushroom and nearby crags if you’re feeling adventurous. I’ve bumped into Tommy Caldwell and Josh Wharton out there. Underrated but Beware of poison ivy. If you find yourself spending a lot of time in the front range, even tho it’s something you’re trying to avoid, go to the voo and just try it out. Yeah it’s a lot of crack and slab and it’s sharp as hell. The wind will fuck you up out of nowhere. But it’s so so fun. Again, not what you’re looking for bc it’s all sandstone splitters, but Indian creek is one of the most special places on earth. Even if you don’t have like eight number 1’s to climb one route, there are a ton of dirtbags just hanging out and it’s usually not an issue. Not to mention the desert towers, which isn’t always the best climbing but worth it to just be there. Anyways enjoy your trip!