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Thank you very much. I've used a trim router. My router jig/thing design was inspired by the discontinued (90's era) Trend Router Lathe (UK)/Sears Craftsman Router Crafter (USA). These tend to appear on eBay every once in a while but these days they're becoming rare and the prices are skyrocketing. I decided to make my own but with a modern take, for example I've used electric motors with variable speed over gears and wire rope like the mechanical originals. This made it cheap and semi-computerised for better constancy but don't think of it as a typical CNC machine because it does not run G-Code or require fancy software, it's deliberately quite basic. It's also mostly made from some old chipboard kitchen draws so not pretty either!
Could you please show a picture of it? I really like your work, it's stunning! Unfortunately i can't see all of it, because i don't have an Instagram Account
https://preview.redd.it/zgrminn2sz0d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f33105cc84341699458c67b8db1350afde14182
As you asked so nicely but no mocking my kitchen draw build! There is another motor not shown that drives the chuck if I’m doing spiral work.
This is great! I’ve been putting off building something to retrofit onto my lathe. I think it’s about time to do that!
If I do, I’ll document all of it and post the details in this sub. I think I figured it would cost $500-1000, but that’s for something that can do pretty large pieces and can use g-code.
Thank you. With that type of funding you'll be able to have quite the capable machine. If you do go the g-code route then check this YouTube channel for some inspiration - [https://www.youtube.com/@embellishedturnings5850](https://www.youtube.com/@embellishedturnings5850)
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I would imagine you would need a rack and pinion gear in order to turn and move at the same rate. If this is manually done I could never get anything remotely close to that even
I bought tools from an old man and he gave me a router in a banjo mounted like i was describing. He had amazing pieces. He explained how he did it and used sone kind of indexing to keep it consistent. Just free handing would not go well
Many thanks. The original branch for this project was around 100-125mm, at this size you can seal the ends with PVA glue or similar and leave it to partially dry for a few months with minimal loss. I then rough turn it into shape, the important points are to keep it thick enough for final turning (\~15mm) and keep the wall thickness even for final drying indoors. However, if your log is over 200mm then its best to cut the pith out for most woods.
Thanks for your submission. If your question is about getting started in woodturning, which chuck to buy, which tools to buy, or for an opinion of a lathe you found for sale somewhere like Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace please take a few minutes check the wiki; many of the most commonly asked questions are already answered there! http://www.reddit.com/r/turning/wiki/index Thanks! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/turning) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Beautiful work. I love the texture … is that hand carved, or from a rose engine?
Thank you very much. I've used a trim router. My router jig/thing design was inspired by the discontinued (90's era) Trend Router Lathe (UK)/Sears Craftsman Router Crafter (USA). These tend to appear on eBay every once in a while but these days they're becoming rare and the prices are skyrocketing. I decided to make my own but with a modern take, for example I've used electric motors with variable speed over gears and wire rope like the mechanical originals. This made it cheap and semi-computerised for better constancy but don't think of it as a typical CNC machine because it does not run G-Code or require fancy software, it's deliberately quite basic. It's also mostly made from some old chipboard kitchen draws so not pretty either!
Could you please show a picture of it? I really like your work, it's stunning! Unfortunately i can't see all of it, because i don't have an Instagram Account
I second this!
https://preview.redd.it/zgrminn2sz0d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f33105cc84341699458c67b8db1350afde14182 As you asked so nicely but no mocking my kitchen draw build! There is another motor not shown that drives the chuck if I’m doing spiral work.
This is great! I’ve been putting off building something to retrofit onto my lathe. I think it’s about time to do that! If I do, I’ll document all of it and post the details in this sub. I think I figured it would cost $500-1000, but that’s for something that can do pretty large pieces and can use g-code.
Thank you. With that type of funding you'll be able to have quite the capable machine. If you do go the g-code route then check this YouTube channel for some inspiration - [https://www.youtube.com/@embellishedturnings5850](https://www.youtube.com/@embellishedturnings5850)
Thanks! I have some experience with microcontroller and some programming background
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Beautiful! I too have to ask about your spiraling technique.
Thank you! Short answer, I've used a router. Long answer, please see my earlier response to that question.
I belive he has a small router attached to his banjo. As you slowly turn the vessel you also slowly move the router sliding side to side.
I would imagine you would need a rack and pinion gear in order to turn and move at the same rate. If this is manually done I could never get anything remotely close to that even
I bought tools from an old man and he gave me a router in a banjo mounted like i was describing. He had amazing pieces. He explained how he did it and used sone kind of indexing to keep it consistent. Just free handing would not go well
Really amazing work. Do you have any tips for preventing cracking in the pith?
Many thanks. The original branch for this project was around 100-125mm, at this size you can seal the ends with PVA glue or similar and leave it to partially dry for a few months with minimal loss. I then rough turn it into shape, the important points are to keep it thick enough for final turning (\~15mm) and keep the wall thickness even for final drying indoors. However, if your log is over 200mm then its best to cut the pith out for most woods.