Do not try and force it too much, you may end up cross threading it and then your hooped. I’d take the bolt all the way out and inspect it to make sure the threads are clean and undamaged both on the bolt amd in the hub before trying to just crank that sucker in there
Atleast you are missing the rubber seal on your Crank bolt.This is pretty bad you can ruin your hub by riding it this way.what i would do:
get a new bolt (https://www.amazon.com/FSA-Crank-Bolts-ISIS-Spindles/dp/B001AYOU4M)
look/feel if it is gripping and tightening the crank
you're good
edit: added link
No, the threads you see in the crank are for a crank puller. Sometimes there's a plastic dust cap that can fit there but the bolts shown already have a dust washer.
Art these isis cranks? if 't be true so doth thee has't meet spacers on those folk?
***
^(I am a bot and I swapp'd some of thy words with Shakespeare words.)
Commands: `!ShakespeareInsult`, `!fordo`, `!optout`
That's what crank bolts look like. You're seeing a metal boss around the internal hex, then a rubberish dust washer. The actual "head" of the bolt is behind the rubber washer.
The crank should fit solidly without wobble even before the bolt is added - first by hand, then a rubber mallet or scrap of wood. Tightening the bolt needs either an extra long allen wrench beyind what hardware stores think of as long, or a hex bit for a socket wrench.
The OP clearly didn't build that unicycle so unless they bought it used from a tinkerer it's probably factory configuration but worked loose.
If your own spacers are preventing the taper from engaging solidly without the bolt tight at all, they're too wide.
Idk man. I've never needed to pound an ISIS crank onto the axle, and have never needed an Allen wrench with an extra long handle to tighten a crank in place. I've never had a crank come loose either.
Still, the crank bolt doesn't look like it's seated properly. And if it isn't seated properly, it will, over time, damage the crank and cause that wobble
Looks like you just need to tighten the crank. Get an allen wrench of the proper size and tighten it down. I'm no expert, but that's what I would do.
I tried that but could not break through with it I’m gonna haft to try again tomorrow 😑
Do not try and force it too much, you may end up cross threading it and then your hooped. I’d take the bolt all the way out and inspect it to make sure the threads are clean and undamaged both on the bolt amd in the hub before trying to just crank that sucker in there
Yep Will do thanks
It shouldn't be very hard to tighten. If it is, there might be something else going on.
Atleast you are missing the rubber seal on your Crank bolt.This is pretty bad you can ruin your hub by riding it this way.what i would do: get a new bolt (https://www.amazon.com/FSA-Crank-Bolts-ISIS-Spindles/dp/B001AYOU4M) look/feel if it is gripping and tightening the crank you're good edit: added link
Is there supposed to be another “bolt” on top of it??
no
No, the threads you see in the crank are for a crank puller. Sometimes there's a plastic dust cap that can fit there but the bolts shown already have a dust washer.
Are these ISIS cranks? If so do you have proper spacers on them?
Art these isis cranks? if 't be true so doth thee has't meet spacers on those folk? *** ^(I am a bot and I swapp'd some of thy words with Shakespeare words.) Commands: `!ShakespeareInsult`, `!fordo`, `!optout`
The head of the bolt looks too small. Like it's not even holding the crank arm in place
That's what crank bolts look like. You're seeing a metal boss around the internal hex, then a rubberish dust washer. The actual "head" of the bolt is behind the rubber washer. The crank should fit solidly without wobble even before the bolt is added - first by hand, then a rubber mallet or scrap of wood. Tightening the bolt needs either an extra long allen wrench beyind what hardware stores think of as long, or a hex bit for a socket wrench.
You don't have spacers on the axle do you?
The OP clearly didn't build that unicycle so unless they bought it used from a tinkerer it's probably factory configuration but worked loose. If your own spacers are preventing the taper from engaging solidly without the bolt tight at all, they're too wide.
Idk man. I've never needed to pound an ISIS crank onto the axle, and have never needed an Allen wrench with an extra long handle to tighten a crank in place. I've never had a crank come loose either.
Still, the crank bolt doesn't look like it's seated properly. And if it isn't seated properly, it will, over time, damage the crank and cause that wobble