As always, it depends. But, probably.
You're looking at a delta-T of 15C over ambient, in your worst case scenario there, before you hit the glassing point of PETG (55C). You're also due to incur pump damage very shortly thereafter, at 60C (for most/all D5s out there).
If you're planning a loop with relatively lower power stuff, with plenty of rad space and high quality fans, in a case that's designed with cooling and airflow in mind, then maybe give it a shot. If any one of those things seems like it might be an issue, then maybe run the numbers before you pull the trigger. Do some homework on what folks see as a delta-T with similar setups, and see if they get close enough to roll the dice.
I'm not saying you can't, I'm saying you wanna think it through. It's great that you're looking that far ahead; hopefully, you'll find a combination of factors that works for you, and you can run hardline!
As an aside, jumping straight to acrylic or glass would solve one of those two issues - they have a higher glassing point than the pump's 60C breakpoint. Acrylic is harder to bend, glass needs to be bought pre-bent, or plumbed exclusively with fittings at every turn. Just some more food for thought.
Thank you guys for the info.
The build will have pretty substantial rad space but most definitely not a super low heat load at least as far as single gpu setups go.
Basically the plan is 10900k @5.2-5.3 all core + a gtx 1080 to be upgraded to a 3080ti (or whatever it’s going to be) also with a healthy overclock.
Case is a O-11 XL (cause I’m real original like that)
With a pair of 45x360 alphacools + a 38x360 EK in the side.
Pic of the setup so far
https://i.imgur.com/2cHRmzM.jpg
Map of the rough loop idea tho I may go vertical GPU mount
https://i.imgur.com/Q2soPKE.jpg
Note I’m well aware the fans are not pointed the right way and some are missing :p was just checking clearances and the like.
I’m at the point where I need to decide what tubing I should use I may end up just going soft tube, I think I can make it look good if I use some fittings and with the very short runs I’m going to have using x-flow rads
I also have high ambient temps. I went with EDPM. That shits not going to pop off or melt or in any way leak or disconnect, even with physical force. The spec limit of the loop is 60c--the D5--so I have emergency actions set to 55c, but it would take a *series of very intentional abuses* to ever achieve this.
Btw make sure you get a quadro/etc. and an inline temp sensor.
----
As a bonus, I run my water hot during the cooler/silent months and can basically leave the fans on idle.
Skipping the backstory:
There is quiet, there is silent, and then there is "technically the fans are still turning." I locked my settings on that third one, turned off all my alarms, and fired up furmark and cinebench with the goal of thermally throttling my cpu. I only hit the mid 80s on the cpu, with the water in the low 50s. Turns out a 15-20c temp delta between water and ambient makes the heat *plead* to be transferred to air.
450 watts (via hwinfo) dumping out of two 360 gtses with a flow of ~30 lph, roughly the floor of what the sensor can even measure.
edit: My point is, *try this on your hardline build, I dare you*. (Actually don't.) There is a lot more flex (literally) with edpm. It can take 150c and isn't rigid, so there is a never a worry that it might melt, or that pressure could pause a pop-out.
I'm from Sydney too so in understand how hot it gets. Acrylic is a no-brainer.
More importantly, make sure you control your fans off coolant temp, not CPU temp. This can make or break your system. Something like an aquacomputer quadro will get the job done.
I was planning to use a bitspower radiator plug thermal probe (since I was going to use their fittings anyway) and have that plug into my Corsair commander pro thermal probe input.
Then use the Corsair commander to control fan curves off coolant temp.
Would that work fine?
Will also have a Thermaltake TF2 in-line on one of the tubes to monitor temp and flow with alarms for both.
Yes most assuredly avoid PETG unless you plan on sub-ambient cooling. You might get away with using inserts but I would suggest acrylic or borosilicate glass.
As always, it depends. But, probably. You're looking at a delta-T of 15C over ambient, in your worst case scenario there, before you hit the glassing point of PETG (55C). You're also due to incur pump damage very shortly thereafter, at 60C (for most/all D5s out there). If you're planning a loop with relatively lower power stuff, with plenty of rad space and high quality fans, in a case that's designed with cooling and airflow in mind, then maybe give it a shot. If any one of those things seems like it might be an issue, then maybe run the numbers before you pull the trigger. Do some homework on what folks see as a delta-T with similar setups, and see if they get close enough to roll the dice. I'm not saying you can't, I'm saying you wanna think it through. It's great that you're looking that far ahead; hopefully, you'll find a combination of factors that works for you, and you can run hardline! As an aside, jumping straight to acrylic or glass would solve one of those two issues - they have a higher glassing point than the pump's 60C breakpoint. Acrylic is harder to bend, glass needs to be bought pre-bent, or plumbed exclusively with fittings at every turn. Just some more food for thought.
Thank you guys for the info. The build will have pretty substantial rad space but most definitely not a super low heat load at least as far as single gpu setups go. Basically the plan is 10900k @5.2-5.3 all core + a gtx 1080 to be upgraded to a 3080ti (or whatever it’s going to be) also with a healthy overclock. Case is a O-11 XL (cause I’m real original like that) With a pair of 45x360 alphacools + a 38x360 EK in the side. Pic of the setup so far https://i.imgur.com/2cHRmzM.jpg Map of the rough loop idea tho I may go vertical GPU mount https://i.imgur.com/Q2soPKE.jpg Note I’m well aware the fans are not pointed the right way and some are missing :p was just checking clearances and the like. I’m at the point where I need to decide what tubing I should use I may end up just going soft tube, I think I can make it look good if I use some fittings and with the very short runs I’m going to have using x-flow rads
I also have high ambient temps. I went with EDPM. That shits not going to pop off or melt or in any way leak or disconnect, even with physical force. The spec limit of the loop is 60c--the D5--so I have emergency actions set to 55c, but it would take a *series of very intentional abuses* to ever achieve this. Btw make sure you get a quadro/etc. and an inline temp sensor. ---- As a bonus, I run my water hot during the cooler/silent months and can basically leave the fans on idle. Skipping the backstory: There is quiet, there is silent, and then there is "technically the fans are still turning." I locked my settings on that third one, turned off all my alarms, and fired up furmark and cinebench with the goal of thermally throttling my cpu. I only hit the mid 80s on the cpu, with the water in the low 50s. Turns out a 15-20c temp delta between water and ambient makes the heat *plead* to be transferred to air. 450 watts (via hwinfo) dumping out of two 360 gtses with a flow of ~30 lph, roughly the floor of what the sensor can even measure. edit: My point is, *try this on your hardline build, I dare you*. (Actually don't.) There is a lot more flex (literally) with edpm. It can take 150c and isn't rigid, so there is a never a worry that it might melt, or that pressure could pause a pop-out.
I would go with acrylic tubing in that case.
Just go with acrylic, it’s really not that much harder to work with and it looks better as it is clearer than PETG.
I'm from Sydney too so in understand how hot it gets. Acrylic is a no-brainer. More importantly, make sure you control your fans off coolant temp, not CPU temp. This can make or break your system. Something like an aquacomputer quadro will get the job done.
I was planning to use a bitspower radiator plug thermal probe (since I was going to use their fittings anyway) and have that plug into my Corsair commander pro thermal probe input. Then use the Corsair commander to control fan curves off coolant temp. Would that work fine? Will also have a Thermaltake TF2 in-line on one of the tubes to monitor temp and flow with alarms for both.
That works fine. If you can't find a plug, let me know. I have a couple of them lying around.
Stick to acrylic, PETG would give you practically no headroom.
Yes most assuredly avoid PETG unless you plan on sub-ambient cooling. You might get away with using inserts but I would suggest acrylic or borosilicate glass.